Come see the folks at the HELM store – 900 East 6th Street in Austin, Texas – this Friday. Try on new styles, see some old styles on sale and have a cocktail from Juiceland. It’s a great way to start the weekend. RSVP on Facebook – follow them while you’re over there!
They are announcing the new styles for Spring ’14: The Dash in Gray & Chestnut, The Phillips in Copper and the Lotzer in Teak. Shop online or in their East Austin store or just give them a call 512.609.8150. They will be happy to introduce you to these new, versatile boots.
Avund Goods is a purveyor of high quality leather goods with a tradition in British and Scandinavian design and art. The quality of their goods is a manifestation of this background and tradition. Avund goes through a rigorous process of testing and reviewing their products before they go into production. This process ensures a product that is not only useful, but beautiful.
I received the Men’s Marine Shackle from Mika Becktor of Avund Goods, as a bonus to a review we were doing on their Forsta V wallet. Though the Shackle was unexpected, it was appreciated and admired.
the leather
The Shackle is made of natural color, vegetable tanned leather. This is the type of leather that ages beautifully over time. The leather actually patinas to a slightly darker hue with use and over time. The leather is approximately four to five ounces in weight. As is fairly common with vegetable tanned leather, the bracelet is fairly stout and not at all flimsy.
the edges
Like all of Avund Good products, the edges of the shackle receive attention. In this case, the edges are beveled, and then the fine point of the edge is burnished with beeswax to a crisp finish. This treatment gives the bracelet a clean, crisp look. This attention is impressive, even for something as simple as a bracelet. It shows a devotion to making the very best product possible.
manliness
The hardware for this shackle makes it really pop and is very man-worthy. As one that does not normally wear a bracelet-like item, the industrial nature of the hardware makes it work for me. The unique U-shaped loop and the screw in pin finish the bracelet into a truly manly article worthy of showcasing. Riveting the leather loops on both ends of the bracelet ensures this bracelet will stand the test of time as well.
BestLeather conclusion
If you are looking for an accessory to demonstrate your manliness, and to prove your intelligence of fine leather, the Men’s Marine Shackle from Avund Goods is a smart choice.
The Portland, OR, based Tanner Goods has demonstrated an impressive ability to grow organically and offer conventional and unique goods like their go-to classic belt, artistic quilted blankets and Nokori folding chair. The variety of their offerings is as diverse as it is deep.
Now you can find Tanner Goods in Los Angeles on Saturday, March 29th, (that’s one week from today) from 11AM to 6PM in their new store at 860 S Broadway. This will be a great chance to meet and greet your new LA Tanner Goods. Of course, there will be beer provided by Monkish Brewing Company (who, by the way, has an promising list of beers).
Let us know what it is like–especially all that craft beer!
These eye catching photos were taken by Michael Andersen.
If a bag is something you use every day, then sooner or later you’ll come to realize that it’s worth the money to invest in something of better quality. One year ago I was in this predicament and I finally decided to bite the bullet and spend a little more on a leather briefcase. I wanted something durable that would last, as well as something functional and easy on the eyes. When the mail arrived with my Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase I knew I had made the right choice.
After opening the clear plastic packaging and slipping the briefcase out, I immediately noticed the aroma of the fresh leather. You know the smell. Before I examined the bag any further, I had to first bring it close to my face and take a few seconds to enjoy the scent–something I’ve repeated many times since.
Aesthetic
Saddleback Leather is known for their classic briefcase. It is a beautiful design, but at 9 inches deep, it is a little too big for my tastes. The thin briefcase is a 4 1/2 inch deep version of the same design, minus the cool belts that wrap around the whole bag.
I originally got the medium, but as soon as I opened the package I knew it was too small. At 15 inches wide, it looked too small in my hand and too small over my shoulder. The carrying capacity was fine; I was able to snuggly fit my 15 inch Asus laptop in it, but it just didn’t look right to me. I am not a huge guy (I’m about 5 feet 10 inches tall with broad shoulders), but it looked like a mini briefcase on my frame. So I contacted Saddleback and exchanged it for the large, which their customer service made very easy for me.
As soon as I saw the Large Thin Briefcase, I knew I had made the right decision. It’s 17 inches wide, 12 1/2 inches tall, and 4 1/2 inches deep. Like all of Saddleback’s bags it’s made from full grain leather and doesn’t have any zippers, snaps, or anything like that. Instead it’s all straps, buckles, and D-rings.
The aesthetic is classic and the design is functional, but it’s not for everyone. I don’t necessarily see it as a slick accessory for an executive in the boardroom. It is more suited to a photographer lugging gear around the city or a young professor carrying documents across campus. However you choose to use it though, be prepared to get noticed and receive compliments.
The more I have used this bag, the more beautiful it has become. Over time, it has collected scratches, scuffs, and wrinkles that make for a beautiful patina. As the leather softens and develops more character, it only adds to the classic and already attractive design of the bag. And with Saddleback’s 100 year warranty, you’re guaranteed to be able to use this briefcase for a lifetime.
Construction
Some other bags you’ll come across will have seams at the edges of the bottom, or a seam down the middle of the bottom, which binds multiple smaller pieces of leather. But each seam is a potential weak point, which is a problem for someone who wants their briefcase to last a lifetime. Saddleback’s thin briefcase is made up of only four main pieces of leather: the front flap going around all the way down the back, the front panel, and the two gussets that run the entire length of the bag.
It is all double-stitched and the stress areas are reinforced with copper and brass rivets, as well as hidden polyester strips. The hardware is nickel-plated brass and can hold up well against any abuse you’d give it.
On the inside it’s made up of two main compartments, with a pigskin pocket and two side pockets in the front compartment, and a simple open compartment in the back. The inside is lined with pigskin, which is incredibly tough stuff made to reinforce the already tough full grain leather. An additional full-sized pocket runs along the back of the briefcase. There aren’t a ton of compartments, it’s more of a minimalist approach, and with the lack of zippers and pockets it might not to be to some people’s liking.
Functionality
It’s surprising how much can be packed into this thin briefcase. I carry it with me every day and it is typically filled with my laptop, notebooks, lunch bag, pens, knife, folders, and often much more. The more you pack in, the more the leather stretches and bulges to accommodate a full capacity. Is it heavy? Yes–compared to many of the other options out there, especially a canvas bag. But it’s tough leather and in my opinion looks much better, so it’s a trade-off you’ll have to consider. Do not expect this briefcase to float in the air behind you, but it will not bend your spine, either.
This briefcase has been used almost every day back and forth from my house to my office, and the leather has softened considerably, especially in the front strap and shoulder strap. The front flap in particular has developed a lot of wrinkles, but there is not any cracking, nor anything that is not natural for leather.
You can put it in backpack mode by running the strap through the large O-ring on the back, but I never have a need to use it that way. I removed one of the shoulder strap pads because I only wear it across the body over my shoulder. Except for a little bit of fuzz on the handle, the stitching has held together well. And despite getting a heavy amount of usage, there are no signs on the hardware of wear, weakness, or anything broken.
Best Leather Conclusion
Ultimately I’m very happy with the Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase and I recommend it to anyone who relies on a briefcase or bag to carry their stuff around on a regular basis. It’s a little bit heavier and might not have all the compartments and zippers some like, but it’s strong leather that will carry your gear for decades to come, all while developing a beautiful patina. If you don’t have a briefcase from Saddleback Leather yet, I recommend either going to buy one or start saving.
At BestLeather.org, we search out companies that are committed to the values we hold dear: commitment to high quality leather craftsmanship, original design, and the best leather and materials available. We love to share their stories when we find these companies. One such young company has recently come to our attention — Origins Leather Company.
kickstarter
I found Origins as a result of perusing Kickstarter. Impressed with what I saw, I inquired and made the connection. The Origins Leather Company will be sending us their briefcase to review in June or July, and after that, they will be sending us one for a giveaway. We look forward to that, but are excited to give you a sneak peak at some of their products and design.
design
The Origins Leather company was formed by Aaron Dean, Erik Sjolie, and Michael Sjolie. They created the company to bring to market high quality leather goods for both business and casual use. Classic design and functionality were their focus for product creation. From what I have seen of their products so far, simple design seems to be important as well. They have eliminated pockets, straps, or stitching that is unnecessary, and stuck with the basics. Also, they have eliminated lining in their bags, not only as a means of keeping their bags lighter weight, but also to provide a more natural feel to the inside of their bags.
leather
Origins uses only vegetable tanned, five to six ounce leather. To them, using vegetable tanned leather is not only more environmentally friendly (much more so than chrome tanning), but it is a leather that is in most cases more durable. It is also a little more rigid, which allows for better bag construction — lighter weight leather with sufficient structure. They currently are offering one beautiful color, which they are calling Trunk Chestnut.
craftsmanship
Origins felt that in order to succeed in beginning their company, they needed to partner with craftsman that create products meant to last generations. They were fortunate to be able to partner with the same company that makes Saddleback Leather’s bags and products. Similar to Saddleback, Origins is offering a 100 year guarantee on their products. That is serious faith in your materials and your craftsmanship. Anybody familiar with a Saddleback bag can certainly understand why they feel comfortable with this guarantee. To help support that guarantee, they use solid copper rivets, solid brass hardware and tough as nails polyester thread.
products
The Origin Leather Company is currently offering six products. The associated prices below are based on what they are currently offering through Kickstarter, meaning these prices won’t last long:
A Briefcase – $325
A Writers Bag – $225
A Travelers Pouch – $90
The Tote Bag – $150
Koozies (A pint glass holder) – $50 for four
Wallet – $30
BestLeather conclusion
If you are currently in the market for any of these items, now is a great time to take advantage of Origin’s Kickstarter campaign, and pick up some goods for less than the soon-to-be retail price. I am excited to get my hands on their briefcase. Good luck on your Kickstarter campaign Origins; we look forward to working with you.
A full review on the boots will be finished soon, after I wear them for a few weeks, but I couldn’t help giving you guys a little taste of what the Forest Heights Piedmont boot from Danner are about.
The Piedmonts at the coffee shop. First wear.
Danner is based out of Portland, Oregon. (If you would like to read more about their company and their philosophy regarding quality, please check out my article which goes into much more detail regarding the company.)
out of the box
They are a handsome boot.
My first words were, “Damn, these are beautiful.” No question about it — the Piedmonts are a beautiful pair of boots.
I put them on and went to the coffee shop — my normal routine. I am used to the break in process of leather boots and the Piedmonts are no exception. You can expect some blisters for the first few days — but stick with it! After just a week or so of wear, they are already broken in and are my everyday shoe now.
Double stitching and braided nylon laces make these boots tough and useable in many situations.
Right out of the box, they feel solid. The leather is supple, the laces are strong, the eyelets are simple and good looking, and the sole is a good piece of Vibram rubber, which is renowned for both durability and traction. I was impressed the moment I felt them.
Goodyear welted sole. This is much more durable than a glued sole.
I have worn them for three weeks now and they feel great. I treated them with Boot Wax, a natural leather sealant from another Portland-based company, Otter Wax, to protect them from the weather here. As you know, weather in the Pacific Northwest can be unpredictable and is usually wet; Boot Wax, full grain leather, Vibram soles, and Goodyear welting means the Piedmonts are good for most conditions found in the wild, wet, and beautiful PNW. They are almost fully broken in, as well, which is a good sign.
If you have a pair, what did you think when you first pulled them out of the box and onto your feet?
The Heritage Leather Company creates and manufactures durable goods for the working man or woman. With a product line that consists of tool bags, tool satchels, knee pads, leather aprons, and more, Heritgage Leather has a focus on making goods that are meant to be used and abused. As such, they have a commitment to producing goods that are durable, functional, but affordable. BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a few items from Heritage Leather, their 16” Mason Tool Bag, their Pliers Holder, and their Six Pocket Tool Pouch.
the leather
Considering we are a site about leather, my first impressions are usually focused on the leather itself, and with Heritage Leather’s goods, there was no exception. For the Pliers Holder and Tool Pouch, Heritage Leather uses vegetable tanned, natural colored, four to five ounce leather. Similar in function to saddle leather, this leather can be formed and molded for a specific purpose, and retain that shape for many years. It is the color of leather that patinas to a golden hue over time, that is very stout, and is very durable. In other words, it’s the right leather choice to hold tools.
The majority of the Mason Bag is made of heavy duty, 18 ounce canvas. Heavy canvas, instead of leather, is a reasonable choice for a large tool bag, considering tools in and of themselves are heavy. The light weight canvas is stout enough, but light enough to make the bag comfortable to carry, even when loaded with tools. To support these tools and ensure that the bag holds together for a long time, Heritage uses one solid, thick, top grain piece of leather for the bottom of the bag. This leather is chrome tanned. Personally, I would prefer vegetable tanned leather for the bottom of the bag, because of its increased durability, but the choice of using thick leather compensates and ensures a long life.
The handles and closure straps of the mason bag are made of four to five ounce vegetable tanned, natural colored leather, the same as their tool pouches. This is stout, very durable leather, that is meant to hold up to years of use.
function
After spending a couple weeks with the goods from Heritage Leather, it was obvious that they focus on producing items that have a very specific purpose, and that these items must serve that purpose well. The Pliers Holder has the right size pocket for an average pair of pliers. The Tool Pouch has enough pockets to carry the essentials for a number of small tasks, like hanging a painting, repairing a broken gate, or fixing that leaky faucet. The Mason Bag has a wide mouth, which makes it easy to drop tools into, and quickly pull tools from the bag. I really liked this design for a tool bag. When I am trying to fix something, the last thing I want to mess around with is trying to get my bag open, or to search inside the bag for the right tool. The wide mouth design of the Mason Bag eliminates this hassle.
Like a classic tool bag, the Mason Bag opens from the inside outward, to provide complete access to the entire bag. It opens and closes easily, and the straps keep the bag cinched shut when transporting tools, or not in use. I found that the metal frame made it easier to carry the bag around, even with tools in it, without using the straps.
the details
The well known idiom, “The Devil is in the details” is just as true in leather working as in any other craft, if not more so. I can quickly tell when a leather good is made to high standards by focusing on some of the details, the type of stitching used, the quality of the hardware, the overall design of an item, etc.
After spending some time with these Heritage Leather goods, it is obvious that they are a company that remembers the details. Heritage uses strong, nylon thread for all of its bags, pouches, and tool holders. With thread weight anywhere from a size 69 to a size 277 (the larger the number, the thicker the thread), they use what is most appropriate for the item being crafted.
Heritage also uses steel, nickel plated hardware for it’s buckles and rings. They also use metal studs for the bottom of their mason bags, for better wear and tear protection. Similarly, they insert a thick piece of water resistant fiberboard in the bottom of the bag, to provide enough rigidity for an ample supply of tools.
In speaking to Heritage about their Mason Bag, they pointed out that they replaced the original steel frame with an aluminum frame as a means of making the bag a little lighter, while still maintaining enough strength and rigidity. Couple the lighter weight nature of the bag, with the provided shoulder strap, and lots of space, and you could actually use the bag as your overnight bag for a campout or other excursion. Dual purpose, I like that.
price
It is fairly unusual in the world of quality leather, to get a quality good for a low price. The equation: High quality = high prices is generally true. The mathematics are pretty plain and simple. I think Heritage Leather comes as close as possible to bucking this equation as a company can. They currently sale their Pliers Holder for $6.78. The Tool Pouch is $22.32 and the Mason Bag is $141.83. For leather products that are made in the good ole’ U.S. of A, those are darn good prices for very good quality items.
BestLeather conclusion
If you are in the market for a tool pouch, bag, or other leather tool accessory, the Heritage Leather Company is a great choice, plain and simple.
Saddleback Leather has multiple styles of wallets to choose fron. This review will cover the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet in Tobacco and Black (and it seems they do not even have the black color available any longer). The wallets come in two other colors; chestnut and carbon (a grayish color). I do plan on purchasing the other colors to see which I like best, especially after they have developed a nice patina. Patina is a shiny or dark surface that forms naturally on something such as wood or leather that is used and or worn for a certain period of time. Here is a great example of patina. Upon the six month and year follow up reviews there will be pictures posted so you can see the developed patina.
Packaging
Some companies have awesome packaging that somehow sends you back to your favorite Christmas, yet this is not so with Saddleback. But even though the packaging may not be overdone the product you receive certainly will be.
Some Initial Details
The first thing that stood out was the smell. That true leather smell is so delicious. Among many things, the smell was what I kept showing and telling people about. Then after some odd looks I would explain that the wallet only cost about $36. I could not get over the fact that I had purchased a full grain leather wallet that people were raving about for less than 50 bucks. Saddleback did not disappoint. The wallet has aged for about three months and the smell, unfortunately, has worn less pungent than I would like. Yet as the smell has declined the quality of craftsmanship is really starting to show off.
Aesthetic
When you receive your wallet do not be shocked by the stiffness of it. This is how a lot of good leather starts off before the user breaks it in. At first, barely any bills fit into the slot (unless you put some strength and finesse into it); yet that has slowly gotten easier over the last three months. The bottom right corner on the face of the wallet has “Saddleback” stamped on it and the bottom right inside flap has Blue, Dave Munson’s (the founder and owner of Saddleback Leather) late dog stamped on it.
Function
Six cards can barely fit in each card slot (more will go in if you really want them to). There are two card slots. When accessing cards be aware that you might be tempted to take out all of the cards, shuffle through them, and then pick which one you want. It is possible to leave all the cards in the slot and nimbly pick through them depending on how many cards you are going to put in each slot. The wallet is geared more toward a minimalist tool and I normally carry four cards max in each side and it fits them perfectly. Currently I have four bills in the bill slot with 4 paper punch cards, one stamp, and a receipt from Papa Murphy’s. All of it fits great with room for more. The bills have enough room to go deep enough as to not stick out, which is admirable. For those of you who usually put a giant rock-sized thing called a wallet in your back pocket, this might be the cure the doctor has for you to minimize the things you carry and be a little easier on your body. When I received it I definitely had to go through and prioritize the things I actually need to carry.
Quick Aside of Dave’s Deals
So how was this product obtained for only $36? Dave’s Deals. Since his products are hand made (another star for him) sometimes small mistakes are made, usually in the stitching. He will then mark down the product by as much as 25%, depending on the flaw. Each flaw will be different. On the wallet I purchased, the only flaws were about four places where the stitch must have been messed up so they re-stitched it. Now it looks just a little thicker than the normal stitch. There is slight fraying from one of the stitching flaws but if it ever breaks I will happily let them uphold their warranty.
BestLeather conclusion
I will add some thoughts and updates as time goes on to see how this wallet ages but these three months make me think that there is going to be much enjoyment of this great product for years to come. My family just might fight over it when I am dead. This is a great purchase for a wallet especially since it is in the lower price range for such a good quality product, Dave’s Deals or not. Make sure to check back in the following months for updates and let me know your thoughts if you own or have had a significant encounter with the wallet. Overall the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet was a great purchase.
If you have been putting off your satchel purchase, Colsen Keane now gives you a reason to put this off no longer. This weekend only, all their satchels are 15% off with the coupon code CKsatchel. Click the image to go to the site.
BTW: If you are interested in a handy tech bag, or gadget bag. We are currently reviewing the Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case. Look for the review here in about a week to ten days.
As time progresses it seems that many of the materials and skills that our ancestors used are falling away. Of course they are replaced with more easily produced, less expensive products and materials. We could assume that this is better, but Waskerd has a different philosophy. They make all of their products by hand, and all their materials are from the US. It’s a throwback to the days when most of what you owned was built by someone who you knew. I can say that having the Waskerd Strayer Wallet has proven to me that the old way has advantages. In comparison to my life filled with mass-produced generic products it is fast becoming one of my favorite possessions.
Construction Technique
Derek, the owner at Waskerd, has made a point to keep his construction processes as far away from the mechanically produced as possible; the result is very high quality leather goods. Everything that he makes is by hand, and just as the old days he emphasises knowing where everything that goes into his products comes from. As a purist he avoids templates, opting to cut and stitch by eye. The wallets can be ordered with custom leather and thread colors as well. Both of these features lend to the town leathersmith aspect of his business and certainly makes each wallet an original.
Leather
The Waskerd Strayer is made out of full grain leather. Full grain leather is the best quality available meaning that this wallet will last for years. In addition it is chrome tanned and after only a few weeks use it is already developing a nice patina. In years to come it will develop personality through my habits of use. A nice touch is the unfinished edges that highlight the way the leather wears. In some cases a manufacturer will leave edges raw in an attempt to skip a step. Since this leather is chrome tanned, the edges fit the look and feel of the wallet.
Stitching
Waskerd uses waxed polyester thread. As opposed to cotton it is much more durable (less likely to rot, break or come unraveled, and impervious to ultraviolet rays). Each hole is punched by hand. This is great because even though the stitching is extremely straight, it has a nice bespoke look and feel to it. He uses a saddle stitch for better durability and the corners are cleverly double stitched for better wear.
One of the endearing features of Waskerd’s unique designs are the intricate W sewn into the front of their wallets. This is fantastic and a level of creativity we don’t often get to see.
Bestleather Conclusion
This is a good wallet. At $55 it is reasonably priced especially since it will last for so long. The one drawback that I have found is that your bills must be double folded in the front. As a result they all need to be pulled out every time you pay cash. For someone who uses less cash and more cards the Strayer is worth looking into more. Their other wallets are also well worth a look.
Portland, Oregon is a hub for all that is cool. As Fred Armisen would say, “The dream of the 90s is alive in Portland.” People wear flannel shirts, tights jeans, big glasses, gauges, the lot. It is a timeless casually classy look. Leather is everywhere you look — Leather wallets, leather pants, leather jackets, leather iPhone cases, leather bags, leather, leather, leather, leather, and, finally, more leather. One of the most prominent of all of these trades are boots — Portland is a leather boot city. And that’s where Danner comes in.
Danner Boots
In 1932, Charles Danner realized a dream. Amidst the throes of the Great Depression, he realized that quality was fading in the American boot trade. Thus, fueled by his passion for quality and craftsmanship, he began building American sourced and American made leather boots out of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Danner Boots was born.
Photo courtesy of Danner Boots.
Four years later, with the growing need for highly durable boots in the Pacific Northwest due to the growing logging industry, Danner uprooted himself and moved west — To Portland, Oregon. In Portland, he was building and selling the best, most durable leather boots available to loggers, who needed them most. A pair of well worn Shipyard boots in the 1940s was the mark of a man’s man. They were said to be virtually indestructible and were thus the chosen boot of men who labored long and hard in the woods, at the docks, or really wherever there was excessive mud, rain, snow, or any other extreme elements.
In the mid-20th century, mass production was rising in popularity and quality, handcrafted goods were falling by the wayside. Danner frowned at this and insisted that Danner Boots be handbuilt with the highest standards of craftsmanship and quality — no matter the cost or increased production time. And they’re still committed to craftsmanship and quality today. I like that quite a bit.
Handcrafted from quality materials. Courtesy of Danner Boots.
The Stumptown line from Danner are constructed entirely in Danner’s Portland, Oregon factory. www.danner.com/boots/stumptown
Danner’s impact on leather culture
Danner is a prime example of the fact that companies can continue the pursuit of quality and craftsmanship even through growth and expansion. It is all too easy for a company to fall into a trap: “Because we’re putting out so many products, we need to sacrifice quality”. Charles Danner had the right idea back in the 30s and that philosophy continues through to this day at Danner: quality is of the utmost importance. And you, the consumer, will pay for that quality. But, Danner will deliver and it will be well worth it.
Real people with real hands constructing boots by hand. That is what I like to see. Courtesy of Danner Boots.
What do you think of the philosophy behind Danner and their impact on the leather culture? Do you have a pair of Danner boots? If so, share their story!
Many people love leather, especially in shoes. It’s a strong and durable material that can withstand the elements and wear and tear. It’s also resistant to scuffs and scratches. Leather shoes are often more comfortable than those made from other materials because they can mold to the feet’s shape over time.
Leather shoes are also versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. They’re available in various styles, colors, and designs. Interestingly, they can eventually develop a unique patina, making them even more desirable. Such features are some of the reasons why they’re considered a great investment. So, if you’re looking for nice leather shoes, check out leather boots from Brand House Direct and other similar stores.
Unlike other objects made of leather, like furniture, coats, purses and so on, the majority of shoe leather is stretched over a last (a wooden or plastic form in the general shape of a foot) to create the shoe upper. To do this the leather has to be within a certain range of thickness. And, certain types of leather define the type and quality of the shoe. Lets dig into what leathers are ideal for shoes.
Types of Leather Used in Shoes
One of the most preferred leathers for dress/business shoes is calfskin. Because calfskin comes from a calf it has a tighter grain and fiber, and is thinner and lighter than cow hide; this makes for better shoe leather. Other types of animal leather include:
Kidskin (from goat) – Known for its delicate texture and suppleness, it’s a popular choice for high-end fashion and footwear.
Pigskin/Peccary (from pig) – It’s known for its durability, strength, and resistance to wear and tear, as well as its unique grain pattern and texture.
Cordovan Shell (from horse) – Its unique characteristics, such as its durability, high level of water resistance, and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time, are its main selling points. It’s also known for its unique texture and how it takes the dye, resulting in a rich and deep color.
Bovine leather (cow hide / calfskin) – It’s one of the world’s most widely used types of leather due to its availability, durability, and versatility.
Those are the most common types of animal leather used in shoes.
Types of Animal Leather Used in Shoes
but you also have more exotics leathers such as the following:
Buffalo
Elephant
Kangaroo
Ostrich
Alligator
Crocodile
Lizard
Snake
Reptile skins tend to last longer and need less care than animal leathers, but they are also more expensive.
Where is Leather Used in Shoes?
A high quality, all leather, shoe uses leather in the following places:
The outsole of the shoe (the part that touches the ground)
The insole of the shoe (the part your foot rests on)
The lining of the shoe (between your foot and the upper)
The heel of the shoe (as in stacked layers of leather to create the heel)
The shoe upper (the rest of the shoe, excluding the items above)
Leather Thickness
Shoes that are not all leather may have rubber soles, insoles made of various materials, and heels made of wood, rubber or plastic. I would suggest going with all leather if you can, with the exception of perhaps rubber soles – if you need to stand in cold wet environments. Leather thicknesses is measured in ounces of weight to thickness in fractions of an inch:
1oz = 1/64
2oz = 1/32
3oz = 3/62
4oz = 1/16
5oz = 5/64
6oz = 3/32
7oz = 7/64
8oz = 1/8
9oz = 9/64
10oz = 5/32
11oz = 11/64
12oz = 3/16
13oz = 13/64
14oz = 7/32
A leather outsole on a man’s shoe is around 12oz in thickness on average. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, The lining is about 1oz.
All of these thicknesses can vary due to leather type, welt method, and shoe style. For example Italian shoes tend to be sleeker and therefore use thinner leather in the soles and uppers to achieve the look. Soles that are Blake stitched or bond welted don’t require as thick an insole as Goodyear welted shoes.
The quality of the leather used in a given line of shoes is determined by the grade of leather the shoe manufacturer purchased to make the shoes. The leather on a shoe upper is typically grain side out leather, but shell cordovan has no grain, waxed leather is used inside out (flesh side out), and suede leather has had the grain removed entirely. Leather that has blemishes in the grain are often buffed (sanded) of the grain side to remove the blemishes, which then requires the grain to be corrected.
About Corrected Grain Leather
Corrected grain leather is sometimes referred to as bookbinder leather. If the grain has not been corrected it is referred to as full grain. One of the final stages of tanning leather is applying the color and finish (although chromium tanned leather can be bought in the “wet blue” state” it comes out of the tanning process in). The high quality leather is typically aniline dyed, which saturates the color completely through the leather. The leather won’t have a coated feel to it. The leather is also pressed under high pressure to give it some shine, and a very thin coat of clear or colored acrylic is applied as a final finish, in most cases.
Some shoe manufacturers may also add an additional clear or colored finish coat. In the case of corrected grain, the pressing and acrylic finish is also where the corrected grain is applied. Because of this, corrected grain leather will have a thicker finish than non-corrected grain, and may also be a little shinier. Corrected grain finishes can range from a simple smooth surface to faux animal skin and pebble grain. Corrected grain leather is typically lower grade leather, simply because the grain and aniline dye would be covered up if done to a higher quality leather. And, the thicker the finish the poorer the leather quality can be. There are exceptions to this rule of course; for example: some pebble grain shoes/boots can be made of good quality leather, but it is hard to tell because of what the finish covers up.
The best way to tell if a shoe is made of corrected grain leather (actually, leather that has a corrected finish on the grain) is to flex the shoe. The finer the creases the more finish on the shoe (the greater the correction). Shoes come in all types and qualities of leather, so it helps to have an idea of what you are really buying. Another of the biggest indicators you can use for determining if a shoe uses corrected grain is price. Quality costs good money. Yet another way is to look at the shininess since corrected grain leather has a much thicker layer of acrylic.
Hopefully this article will give you some things to consider when you are you are looking to buy a shoe.
This is a guest post from Glen Tippets, the owner of the shoe care company, GlenKaren Care Products. You can learn more about his naturally made products at glenkarencare.com.
[Congratulations to Nick S. for winning this beautiful Saddleback Leather bag out of 13,000 entries. He told me he would be using the bag for traveling and overnight trips!]
The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer.
For all of its beauty, however, there is what (initially) seems like a huge red flag: the strap containing the buckles that secure the side pocket flaps is fixed to the main pocket flap. It is just one long strap across the top of the bag that gets threaded through loops on the side pocket flaps and buckled to the side pockets themselves. This means that you cannot open the main pocket without the side pockets being unfastened. Either you travel with your side pockets unfastened, or you have to open three buckles every time you want to get into your main compartment. Opening the main flap all the way requires you to unthread that strap from the side pocket flaps. If you were opening the bag many times per day, this could get quite old.
When I first saw this, I was surprised. Saddleback is typically very thoughtful in their designs. SURELY, they know best and there is some brilliant reason for this that I will love once I figure it out. SURELY, they would not offer a bag with such an obvious design flaw. It seems that Dave uses his prototypes for something like 20 years to perfect them, sending a complimentary bag to Jesus of Nazareth by angelic courier via Jacob’s Ladder, and offering the remainder for sale to the rest of us.
Then I remembered that this is luggage! The majority of my Saddleback Leather products happen to be everyday use items (like my backpack). But not so much with this one; you will put all your travel goodies in it and only open it up when you arrive. More than likely, it will stay open on the hotel bed until you depart.
As usual, you can see pictures and a 3D model of the bag on the Saddleback website, and you can see Dave handling the bag and commenting on it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kcf_gd-QNUQ. Also, as is par for the course, there are a number of reviews floating around on the web. The reviews on the site and on Amazon are standard SBL fare—the kind of glowing testimonials you would expect on an SBL piece.
One issue that kept coming up is whether or not it fits into the overhead bins on various aircraft. One reviewer said it did not fit “easily” into an overhead bin on an aircraft flown by Southwest, though I assume that it ultimately did fit. Another said it fit easily into an overhead bin on a Jet Blue airplane, and a flyer in a Delta MD80 did not have any issues. In the video, Dave basically says it fits until it does not, in which case it fits below your seat. Based on the dimensions on Saddleback’s website (20.25” x 10” x 11.25”), it should be well within most airline carry-on size restrictions. If you are truly worried, you can lookup the dimensions acceptable to your airline for your upcoming flight at www.seatguru.com.
For all of my complaining about the top flap, the five straps do add more security for checking the bag if it is unable to be a carry-on, and the flap is generous enough to keep out heavy precipitation (the lack of which on my Rustic Leather mailbag—despite how much I love it—plagues me).
Users also seem to disagree about the utility of the interior pocket. In the video, Dave explains that it is for muddy sandals, sweaty clothes, or seashells (basically, anything you’d rather keep separate from your other garments). I say brilliant. Cut it out if it truly bothers you. It’s supposed to be floppy, but, being constructed from that nice pigskin, the one in this bag is fairly rigid (for now).
It’s nice to see that the interior pocket is merely pigskin, and not the leather/pigskin sandwich that used to be used for literally every panel and pocket everywhere. I have an older version of the backpack, which I love, but it is quite heavy. A lot of the pigskin is just unnecessary, and it seems Saddleback has become sensitive to that. This duffle, like the newer backpacks, is constructed using a more appropriate use of pigskin (for example, the side pockets are unlined), which keeps the duffel a bit lighter.
Another deliberate aspect of the design, which I was glad to have pointed out to me, is the flat handle. I love the round briefcase handle and wish my backpack had the same. For me, it is much more satisfying to hold the rigid, round handles than the flat ones. However, they can cause problems for a bag of these dimensions when being stuffed into an overhead bin.
From a practical standpoint, this bag should have enough space for the average adult to comfortably pack for a 2-3 day trip, minus any speciality equipment or bulky warm clothing. That said, you can fit your blueprints, map tubes, or harpoons right underneath the top flap of this bag and still fasten it closed, if you run the top strap through slits designed for this purpose. The side pockets can fit about three cans of beer.
BestLeather conclusion
This is a nice bag that is excellent for travel, but does not seem designed for the everyday grind (unless yours is at 35,000 feet in between investment property visits). Aesthetically, it is a knockout and the construction is the standard robust Saddleback Leather fare.
These Wolverine Courtlands offer style and ruggedness in a boot package which is often reserved for logging and dropping heavy things on your feet. For the sharp dressed man or woman with a penchant for the rugged yet subtle style and more protective functionality of a boot, this is a worthy option. Here are a few initial thoughts on this boot after exercising it for a month in a wide variety of situations. Of course, a full exhaustive review will be forthcoming.
classy boots!
This is a classy boot which works with a large variety of styles. You can dress it up with some polish, wear it casual, or dress it down for this new style of leaving your boots untied in a careless hipster manner (which I do not understand, “I am so cool I don’t even tie my shoes!”). You can wear it with a nice pair of jeans or chinos and look sharp. The Chromexcel leather from Horween presents and wears well shined or unshined thanks to it’s wax impregnated texture. Chromexecel is expensive leather, consequently it also contributes to the higher price of the Courtlands. It is an ideal wearable leather for this application.
good comfort
Some of the cheaper leather boots lack a decent cushion or arch support for your well used feet. Not so here. You get a thick goodyear welt (which provides good waterproofing) and a cork sole. After a month of heavy use, walks exceeding four miles, and plenty of on and off road trekking I still find the Courtlands impressively comfortable.
leather soles vs rubber pads
This is my second pair of 1000 Mile Boots from Wolverine. The first pair had leather soles that I later regretted buying because of their limited traction and extra wear when exposed to water. Here in the pacific northwest hiking up a mountain in the rain is not uncommon and the restraint on use was annoying. Not to mention they needed a new sole much quicker than I expected because of the water I did expose them to. These rubber soled Courtlands are a good spring and summer boot here in the NW, not so much a winter boot. Traction on ice is still dicey with the Vibram rubber pad.
These boots have a pad of textured rubber instead of an all leather sole and this provides some benefits over the leather sole. They are quieter, they have better (but still not as good as a full sole) traction, they have better longevity. However, the rubber pad is still held on with a heavy thread and glue that can wear out with use in water so it is not entirely an all weather boot, it is a most-weather boot. Overall, very nice boots and quite suitable for frequent use if you mind the limitations on water exposure and traction.
The Ashland Leather company is maker of fine, small leather goods. Based in Chicago, Illinois, they specialize in making high quality wallets, key fobs, key cases, and leather watch straps. Ashland Leather was formed by two tanners from the Horween Leather Tannery. With a knowledge of how to make superb leather, they decided that they needed to also make great products from great leather and their company was born. BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing their Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet.
the name
Your first question might be, “Johnny the Fox, what’s up with the name”. That’s a good question. Named after a 1920’s Chicago gangster who was tough as nails, this wallet is similarly tough, with a never say die construction. All of Ashland Leather wallets have similar names from unique Chicago history. For more info on the inspiration behind the name, read here.
the leather
The Johnny the Fox is a classic bi-fold wallet, but the fact that it is made with genuine shell cordovan from Horween, ratchets up the uniqueness and quality of the wallet a few notches. My first impression of the wallet was that it is a very simple bifold, but as I held it, and thumbed over it, I could tell that it was not an ordinary bi-fold, and the main reason was the leather.
Shell Cordovan is a very unique and fairly rare leather. A small section (the shell) is taken from a horse hide and tanned by Horween to perfection. It’s a process that they have perfected over many years, and the end product is a piece of leather that is beautiful, looks rich, and as a distinctive feel. In fact, it takes Horween over 6 months to complete the tanning and finishing process for their Cordovan.
Shell Cordovan is known for it’s durability, denser grain, and resistance to abrasions. What I did not initially know about Horween’s Shell Cordovan was its high gloss finish. This makes the wallet pop when you whip it out of your back pocket and pull out the green.
the function
Johnny the Fox has a main compartment for your bills, along with three slots on each side of the fold for your cards. It also has a sleeve where you can slide in additional cards or necessities. Though not a minimalist wallet where you slip in a few cards or cash and that is it, this is a simple wallet. Using it this past week, there was something pleasing in using a classic wallet where there was sufficient room to carry some bills, plus all of the cards that I need to use. It is a little too thick to also be used as a front pocket wallet, but it was never meant to be.
Ashland Leather also has high attention to detail in the crafting of their products. This wallet had precise stitching placement, clean lines on all of the cut leather, and perfectly symmetrical. The fine craftsmanship is a great complement to the fine leather.
BestLeather conclusion
Ashland Leather’s Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet is simple, it is classic, and the leather is beautiful. The quality of leather used on this wallet will ensure many years of use and abuse. If you are in the market for a classic bi-fold, with a high degree of class, look no further than the Johnny the Fox from Ashland Leather.
Chromexcel leather will scratch, scuff, and dent easily, which leads to a beautiful refined ruggedness. It’s all part of the life of leather. These scratches quickly develop a wallet into one that might be a lot like your grandfather’s– loved and used for many years. Scuffs will eventually smooth out through normal use, but we can definitely speed up the process with this method.
A quietly vibrant city tucked into the northwestern corner of Washington State, Seattle has been home to many industries. Grunge music was born in the drizzly gray that Seattleites are so used to and with it came the article of clothing that Seattle has become most famous for: the plaid flannel shirt. A simple design born in the mountains, worn by loggers and people who just enjoy being warm, the plaid flannel shirt has been around since the beginning of Seattle when the timber industry took root in the abundant forest growth surrounding the sleepy city. And, it was because of this growing industry that Clinton C. Filson moved from Nebraska to Seattle and began outfitting loggers in flannel shirts and workwear. C.C. Filson is as much of a Seattle institution as grunge, rain, and logging. Filson was there from the beginning.
C.C. Filson
Clinton C. Filson was a Nebraskan working on the railroad in the late 1890s when he decided to uproot himself and move west to Seattle. Hearing of the growing logging industry in the Pacific Northwest and the gold rush in Alaska, he moved to the Emerald City and started a logging outfitter — designing, manufacturing, and selling quality and heroically durable goods was his specialty.
He began specifically designing gear for prospectors heading north to Alaska — clothing, blankets, sleeping bags, and boots. This was the beginning of Filson as we know it — then known as C.C. Filson’s Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers.
In 1899, he shifted his focus to hunting, fishing, and logging. And thus, C.C. Filson was born. The company remained in the Filson family until 1981 when it was sold to Stan Kohls, a skiwear designer who brought the production up from 35 to over 250 goods, all the while refraining from modern technology so as to retain the authenticity of the product. Quality. Durability. American made.
In 2005, Filson was bought by Brentwood Associates and then sold again to Bedrock Manufacturing Co., out of Texas. Though ownership of the company has changed hands numerous times, their attention to quality, craftsmanship, and durability has never fallen by the wayside. Filson products are built to last.
the story of my bag
My father bought one of the first generations of briefcases released by Filson in the early 90’s. He is a doctor and therefore works obscene hours — both at the office and at home. Lugging patient files around was something he knew he was going to have to do and, knowing he was going to have to do it every day, back and forth, he wanted something that was going to be up for the job. Filson became his top choice and he bought a large briefcase/computer bag — one of the first of the line. When he purchased the smaller Original Briefcase a few years ago, he gave me his original Filson bag.
Since he bought the bag, it has been all over the globe. It has toured Europe multiple times, it has felt the moisture of a Seattle drizzle, it has felt the heat of Arizona, braved the snow of B.C., been in two-seater planes, been strapped to the pannier rack of a bicycle, trekked through the forest on adventures — in short, there are few places that my bag has not been. It has seen the world.
And it wants to see more.
construction
A huge YKK zipper and double stitched leather means this thing isn’t going anywhere.
There is one word to describe the construction of a Filson product — bombproof. With a combination of oiled twill canvas and bridle leather bound by double stitching and a doubled canvas bottom, as soon as you even lay eyes on this thing, you know that it is not going anywhere. The Filson is built for life and everything that life throws at it along the way.
The roller buckle on the shoulder strap helps preserve the leather — basically, this is how my strap is still functioning.
The canvas is Filson’s own 22oz 100% Cotton Oil Finish Rugged Twill. 22oz. This stuff is beyond bombproof — it’s nuke proof. Well, maybe not quite that strong, but it will take absolutely everything you can throw at it.
The classic Filson handle. You can see how the leather looked when it was new as compared to how it looks used.
The doubled bottom of the bag is a defining feature of Filson bags; basically, two layers of their canvas are stitched together, then used for the bottom of the bag. Two layers of 22oz canvas basically turns the bottom of the bag into 44oz canvas and will therefore take the abuse of a ridiculous amount of weight and pressure. You really can put anything in this bag and know that it won’t be going anywhere.
The YKK zipper is covered by a flap of oiled canvas for good security and water protection.
aesthetic
The Filson Briefcase is a classic look that really will not ever go out of style. Filson has mastered the definining canvas/leather combination that most other companies strive to emulate. The best part? It only gets better with age.
With tan canvas and dark brown leather, the Filson bag has the feel of a rugged, yet collegiate workhorse. In other words, this bag is as at home in your office as it is deep in the woods of British Columbia or on the deck of a commercial salmon boat in the frothing waves of the Pacific or in a cafe in downtown Portland or Seattle. This bag really fits in all places with all styles; it is an aesthetic jack-of-all-trades.
This bag has remained unchanged in style and aesthetic since it was released in the early 90’s. The new bags look identical to my vintage bag, and I really like that. The only difference is that my bag has obviously seen 20+ years of heavy use and wear, but I think the beautiful patina that my bag has devoloped over the years of use makes it look even better.
The patina that appears with wear is really the best aesthetic feature of this bag. The dirt, ink stains, wear around the edges, and scuffs and dull glow of well-worn leather give this bag life. In other words, this is a product that grows with you. As you use it, as you live with it; as you yourself grow, the bag grows with you. I really like buying a product that is aesthetically good when you buy it and even better after 20 years of use.
function
With a laptop sleeve, two separate document sleeves, copious amounts of pockets for pens, pencils, laptop chargers, and not to mention the cavernous space in between the designated pockets, plus the two exterior file pockets, this bag certainly is not lacking in space. Plus, it is comfortable to wear and carry and gives easy access to the main compartment. The function of this bag, really, is fantastic.
Use it for school, use it for work, use it for life, coffeeshop runs, daily errands, travel, whatever your needs may be, this bag will meet it with a grin. And you’ll look classically rugged while doing it, so it’s definitely a win-win. The fact of the matter is that men who use Filson bags are 67% more likely to attract a female than men who don’t. *
*Though women do, in fact, dig men who wear Filson (as we are ruggedly handsome, yet stylish as well), this statistic does not reflect actual population, just the opinions and observations of a male with a Filson bag.
BestLeather conclusion
Because this is a vintage bag and personal to me, I obviously cannot recommend that you go out and buy this specific bag. I can however, recommend that you buy a new Filson bag.
Why? A Filson bag seems to transcend “bag”. It transcends “briefcase”, it transcends “tool”, it transcends “case”. The Filson bag really will become your companion, your friend. It grows with you, it lives with you, goes where you go, carries what you carry, and becomes what you are, essentially. For instance, if you are a businessman, the bag will wear with your documents. If you are a student, the bag will wear with your books and your laptop. If you are an outdoorsman, nature will imbue itself in the canvas. In other words, this bag is not just a bag. It is so much more than that. It becomes something that you appreciate more and more each and every day, as it grows with age and use and becomes better and better. This is a bag not only built and meant for life, but built with a life.
(and it seems they do not even have the black color available any longer). The wallets come in two other colors; chestnut and carbon (a grayish color). I do plan on purchasing the other colors to see which I like best, especially after they have developed a nice patina. Patina is a shiny or dark surface that forms naturally on something such as wood or leather that is used and or worn for a certain period of time. Here is a great example of patina. 
Upon the six month and year follow up reviews there will be pictures posted so you can see the developed patina.
