Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack & The Tank Comparison – Episode Three

Transcription:

Hey folks! This is TJ with BestLeather.org and today we’re going to be taking a look at the original Saddleback Leather Tank Backpack and the newer Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack. We’ve also got the new tobacco leather here.

So why would you want either one? The Tank is discontinued. You can get it cheaper on eBay, between $350 and $400 as opposed to nearly $600 for the new Squared Backpack. There are some comfort differences and capacity differences and I want to show you those real quick.

With the original Tank backpack, you’ve got a piece of leather that goes around it from the top down to right here in this seam. This seam is about half an inch and it is pretty brutal on your lower back after a while of walking. This backpack is more than a year old. It’s been used every single day and you can see it right here where it’s formed to the back, but this hasn’t broken in at all. It’s just still as brutal as ever. Also, the shoulder straps—these little ridges right here—those can get uncomfortable after a while. It’s also a bit narrow so these edges, if you have a wider body, can rub and dig into your skin as well.

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On the other side, with the Squared Backpack, is an update and evolution from The Tank. You’ve got one piece of leather that goes from this flap all the way around to right here. Now there’s no seam here and you can see, as I can push on this, that it’s pretty flexible. This will mold to your back quite nicely. There’s a nice patina right here. There’s also a piece of foam embedded in the leather. So as far as your lower back goes I have absolutely zero complaints. I’ve carried this hiking for hours, I’ve taken it through airports, long trips, and it’s been very comfortable. The shoulder straps are also a lot thinner and are a lot simpler. They’re more comfortable; they’ve broke in very quickly. I think it’s just a better design, a simpler design than these more complex, heavy-duty straps on the Tank.

However, I will admit that there’s a real classiness to The Tank with these straps and with the rigidity of the design. Even though it’s got some flaws, it looks really sharp. So if you’re willing to put up with those things, I think it’s still a great backpack and it was designed with durability in mind for sure. You can see massive seams of leather going on here.

The Squared Backpack isn’t designed any less ruggedly but there are some good things that really make it more functional. It’s also bigger. It’s got about 1,400 cubic inches of internal capacity whereas The Tank has about 900 cubic inches. So you’ve got more capacity and the flexibility makes it a little bit easier to work with.

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You can see right here with this strap—this is something that I would change if this were my design. I haven’t used these straps at all since I got the backpack because I don’t see a reason to. Maybe I’m wrong. Maybe somebody can point out in the comments what the real purpose is for and what they use it for.

It seems to me that this front flap totally encloses that main compartment. I’m not worried about water or anything getting in there, especially when you cinch it down to the lowest level. But with this flexibility here, it folds a little bit. You see how it’s crinkling right there. But when you put that flap down, sometimes it closes a little bit crookedly and it looks like it wasn’t made correctly. I think they should make this a little bit stiffer but that’s the only thing that I would change thus far.

Pockets-wise, usability, they’re pretty close. Identical pockets—you’ve got one up front, two in the sides, you’ve got slots where you can fit stuff in, pens and whatnot, between the pockets and the main compartment, pockets inside the main compartments here and then two here. They’re a little bit larger on the squared backpack because of the larger dimensions than on The Tank but they’re still very good.

I think this is one of the best backpacks that you can buy on the market if not the best. I’d really like to see another backpack that can compare. We’ve got an article coming out on the Marlondo backpack versus the Saddleback Squared Backpack and it just really doesn’t compare. There’s a lot of thought that’s gone into this. For working with the limitations that leather has, I think they’ve done a really good job.

I like the new tobacco leather also. You can see we’ve got some patina going on right here. It looks fantastic. It’s definitely more rugged than the chestnut—chestnut being my personal favorite—but it looks good and it’s wearing well. This one doesn’t really have any scars on it that I can speak of, but I like the used look of it. It’s fantastic.

So we’ve got pros: It’s (Tank) sharp-looking, it’s cheaper, but it doesn’t have quite as much capacity. Whereas this (Squared) has got more capacity, it’s more expensive. You’ve got this flexibility up here that I don’t really get.

So that’s about it. Thanks for watching. We’re going to be doing some more videos here upcoming and hopefully some giveaways. So subscribe and stay tuned. Also, I’d like to hear from you guys with these backpacks and what you think of them, especially people who have had The Tank and have upgraded to the Squared Backpack. What do you think about that?

I know some of you are considering this; you have Saddleback Leather Tank Backpack and are considering the Squared Backpack. I would encourage it. I think it’s a good switch. The pros are worth it. Hopefully that is helpful to you. Have a great day!

Check out the Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack here on the SBL website.

Search for Saddleback Leather Tank Backpacks on Ebay.

Saddleback Leather MacBook Sleeve Review – $93

The Saddleback Leather MacBook Pro Retina Sleeve is a simple product meant to house and protect the Macbook Pro. I already had an inexpensive, foam type sleeve for my 15″ Macbook Pro.  I decided that my beautiful Macbook needed to be sheathed in something more worthy, something a little more elegant, so when I found the Macbook Sleeve from Saddleback Leather, I did not think twice and bought it.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $931

Function

The sleeve is obviously pretty simple in it’s function – to house and protect your Mac.  The function goes a lot deeper than that though.  A sleeve or bag is pretty worthless if it does not protect your computer in the case of a drop, or bump, or coffee spill. The Macbook Sleeve from Saddleback does all of these things well.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $932

As is Saddleback’s forte, they use thick four to five ounce leather, and then slap a layer of pigskin on top of that.  For the Macbook Sleeve, they used three pieces of leather – a strip about one and a quarter inches thick that runs from one side down the bottom to the other side.  That strip is connected to each side by a large piece of leather.  This combination of thick leather and method of construction means that you have very thick edges, which serve very well to protect the computer, in the case of a drop, though I have not purposely tested this yet.  Maybe when my macbook is on its last legs I can do some serious drop tests.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $934

The other thing I noticed is that the leather seems to have a bit more padding than what normal leather would provide.  You can read on Saddleback’s site that they actually sandwich high density neoprene between leather on some of their products for extra padding, like in their desk pad.  This neoprene helps to act as a shock absorber, in the case of a fall.  This certainly gives the sleeve a lot more function than without it, and doesn’t detract from the aesthetic of the Sleeve.

Form

Another thing that I liked about the Sleeve is the attention to small details.  The top of the sleeve, where you slide the computer into, leaves about one quarter of an inch between the leather and the computer, which further serves to protect the computer on the top side.  I appreciate this attention to detail, which lesser quality products don’t have.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $938

Also, the computer slips snugly into the sleeve without a lot of effort, but also keeps the computer in the sleeve without easily slipping out.  Anyone that has made quality leather goods themselves, knows that this is not easy to make a product so precise, that an eighth of an inch off either way could mean a product being too tight or too loose.  It has to be just right every time.  To further improve the Sleeve’s aesthetics, it is double stitched with tough polyester thread all the way around the Sleeve.  Though the Sleeve would probably be sufficiently tough without the second layer of stitching, the second layer adds to it’s beauty.

Price

At $83, the Sleeve is not a cheap case, of course, but for what you get, it has high value.  You can find other leather sleeves for less, and a number for a lot more.  The price point is actually quite attractive considering you are getting a sleeve that is made out of the best possible leather, looks as beautiful as the computer itself, and will last the life of the computer, and many more after that.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $937

Critique

I don’t have any major criticisms to levy at the Macbook Sleeve, but if there was a suggestion box on Saddleback’s site, I would recommend a strap to ensure that your Mac never comes out of its sleeve, in case of heavy jolting, or if the leather stretches a bit over time.  I understand that there would be a tradeoff to the svelte appearance of the Sleeve if that were the case, but that’s a tradeoff I would take.

Saddleback Leather Macbook Sleeve Review - $933

BestLeather conclusion

The Macbook Sleeve looks gorgeous and makes a serious fashion statement, while keeping a very attractive price point.  If you’ve got a Macbook Pro, and you want a beautiful piece of housing, you won’t be disappointed with the Macbook Sleeve from Saddleback.

Saddleback Leather MacBook Pro Retina Sleeve

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reasons to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

The thought of putting hundreds of dollars into a simple bag that will carry your goods is often understandably troubling. After all, why spend hundreds of dollars when you can just spend fifty to do the same thing? However, you should know these facts as you go about making a decision on how much to spend.

Personally, I have not seen another industry that more truly reflects the cliche “you get what you pay for” than the leather industry. Competition is so fierce that any attempts to raise prices dramatically over market rates will quickly result in bankruptcy.

longevity through durability

Because of the high quality components on a good bag you won’t have to buy another one again, until you want to.

There are leather organ bellows that are 40-60 years old that still work perfectly because they have been well maintained. The Swiss Army used leather bags in their pack trains and examples can be found in excellent condition over 100 years old. Is someone going to be carrying your bag in 100 years?

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Saddleback Leather

classiness

For example; take a close look at a Basader bag vs a Cole Hann bag. Is there any comparison?

That Basader bag’s leather is thicker, the thread is better, the hardware is far superiour, the engineering is more robust, and you get to work with a small personal company. Philip & Elin are great. Their bag is going to last MUCH longer.

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Basader

patina

Time and use will destroy a cheap bag but a quality leather bag will keep on trucking. It is only going to look better with time.

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Kenton Sorenson

Pass your lifetime bag on to your children.

Instead of a garbage pit.

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Thrux Lawrence

Why have a bunch of cheap bags over your lifetime when you can have one far superior bag that you will greatly enjoy?

Use your leather bag every day and you will develop a working relationship with your leather bag that you would never have with a cheap bag. You trust it. It serves you well through the decades. It is your trusty leather bag.

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Skytop Trading

It makes strong financial sense.

How many cheap bags and backpacks have you purchased so far in life? How many will you purchase in the remainder of your life? What does the value of all those bags add up to? What’s the cost of a quality bag again? Doesn’t sound so crazy now does it?

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Whipping Post

For example:

7 nylon landfill bags X $50 each = $350 = one quality leather bag

So, what are you waiting for?

read more in the “Buy It for Life” series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

Craft & Lore Port Wallet Review – $55

Coeur d’Alene, Idaho is a small town in the Panhandle of Northern Idaho, surrounded on all sides by natural beauty. Rugged peaks to the north and east, an enormous lake to the south, another enormous lake the north, another lake north of that, completely and totally surrounded by forest — you get the point. Coeur d’Alene is wild.

It is from this wild, rugged landscape that Chad von Lind draws his inspiration for the products of Craft & Lore. Chad started the company with his own two hands on his kitchen table, after realizing his want for a sheath for a large German hunting knife. What hunting knife is complete without a rugged leather sheath? Chad incorporates the simplicity of the landscape into his products, by designing them with simple, clean functionality in design and long lasting durability in quality and build. Continue reading “Craft & Lore Port Wallet Review – $55”

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Should we demand high quality in every product we purchase or is it OK to be content with low quality from time to time and in some circumstances?

The most appropriate answer would be similar to the answer that my psychology professors in college would often give: it depends. If obtaining quality is within reach, even with some sacrifice or patience, it is worth it to forgo a cheap product in lieu of saving up to purchase a higher quality one. The return on investment is simply greater than the higher cost. The amount of enjoyment that you get from it, the durability that you will experience, the cachet that it brings to you, how well it works, are all benefits of that quality.

VLUU L100, M100 / Samsung L100, M100

In conversations with craftsman of high quality goods, we agree that America is going through a small renaissance; a return to its roots. America is tired of junk. We are okay having less, if that less is something of quality. It is better to have a single, high quality belt that you can wear everyday, that improves with age, than five belts that unravel after a year or two. It is simply better to have fewer, high quality goods, than closets full of junk.

As a society, we need to go back to our roots of craftsman designing and building products that endure, and run away from high quantity, high turnover goods. The time has come for us to fully embrace quality, and the hallmarks that represent it.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Cachet, “the state of being respected or admired” is another hallmark of quality. Cachet is intangible, yet produces a physiological effect, that impacts how we view and feel about an object.

Certain goods are produced in a way that make people who have them look or feel better. When I purchased my first high quality leather bag and brought it with me to work, my head was held a little higher, and my chest was puffed out a little more. I felt good having this bag with me. I felt a bit more confident. I felt like it said something about who I was, and the values that I had. This is a very distinct example of something that has quality, it makes you look or feel better, because you know that it is something that was made with high attention to detail, with excellent materials, by skilled craftsman.

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The feeling of being proud of certain goods does not always mean that what you have is of high quality though. When I got a Jansport backpack for my freshman year of high school, for example, I similarly thought that I was a little cooler, because it was what a lot of other kids had. This did not mean that it was a high quality product. It was my perception. But like cost, where a high quality product will never be inexpensive, a certain amount of cachet will always be associated with a high quality good. If something has cachet, you will know it. You’ll be stopped and complimented. You’ll be noticed. You might just have a little more swagger in your gait as a result. Chances are, you’ll have something of high quality.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

More expensive products are not always the best products, but how expensive an item is, is usually an indicator of quality. Cost is another hallmark of quality. Just because something costs more though, does not mean that that something is better, or does it?

There certainly is a relationship between cost and quality. It is impossible to make something very well, if the materials and the skill of the craftsman are poor. Highly skilled craftsman demand higher wages. The best materials naturally demand higher costs. If you buy a leather wallet for $20, you can pretty much guarantee that it’s not going to last very long and may not even function like it should. I’ve bought my fair share of $20 leather wallets, which inevitably I throw out over time, because they eventually started falling apart. Comparatively, I purchased a well constructed wallet 2 years ago, and the wallet has only seemed to improve with time. The wallet cost me just under $60. At approximately 3 times the cost of more mainstream wallets, this new wallet is comparatively expensive. Considering that this wallet will most likely last my entire life, it is actually comparatively inexpensive.

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Does this cost/quality scale continue indefinitely though in a linear line? Is a $600 wallet, ten times better than a $60 wallet. There certainly are diminishing returns after a certain price point. Determining what that price point is, is difficult to do, and of course depends on the product category. With leather goods, there are four price points as they relate to quality: 1. Cheap 2. Decent 3. Great 4. Exceptional.

1. You can buy an inexpensive leather product and it will be cheap. It won’t last long, won’t look good after a little use, and will eventually fall apart.

2. A decent product will last longer, function better, but will be lacking in certain areas. It’s like buying a $20 belt at a department store. This belt will look good for a while and will do a good job, but you’re not going to have this belt longer than a couple years.

3. Great quality is the $100 belt. This belt can last last a lifetime if properly cared for. It is built with the best leather by skilled craftsman. It can improve with age, and you didn’t have to go into debt to acquire it.

4. The exceptional price point also provides for a great quality product, but at a price point so high that few can afford it. This is the $700 Hermes belt. Is the $700 belt that much better than the $100 belt? In some cases, perhaps, but in many cases, no. The vast majority of these products will also last a lifetime, they are made of the best materials and by the best craftsman. They are unique mostly because they cost so much. A deliberate attempt at pricing out the majority, in order to create exclusivity.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

What Is Quality - A Treatise06

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Form certainly does follow function. Like a beautifully constructed building, a properly constructed leather bag works as it is intended to work, and the shape it takes enables that function.

A backpack, for example, is intended to carry books and gear, and to carry them comfortably. A quality backpack will therefore be large enough to carry these goods comfortably, to carry a sufficient quantity of gear, and to do so with sufficient comfort. Beyond that though, design boils down to much finer details as well. A quality leather backpack will have fine, even stitching, and the stitching will serve to reinforce and hold together the leather in the best possible way. The thread will be an appropriate thickness, to ensure strong seams and long life. The rivets will be secured in the most appropriate parts of the bag, to virtually eliminate the possibility of the bag coming apart. The leather used in the bag will be the most sensible for it’s purpose.

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The design of a quality product will be planned and thought out from the smallest detail, to its most general use. This attention to detail inevitably leads to a more time consuming process in creating the product, which inevitably leads to a more expensive product.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Beauty is another hallmark of quality. Consider when you are shopping for a great pair of leather shoes. What is the first thing you notice in a quality pair of shoes – they look beautiful.

Italian shoes especially have a noticeable sveltness due to the blake sole method. You do not immediately notice the durability, because that takes time to determine, but you do notice how beautiful the items looks. A leather bag that is a piece of junk may look fantastic upon first glance, but upon further inspection (or ownership) it’s true cheapness is discovered.

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Can a high quality pair of leather shoes or finely made leather gloves look terrible? I do not think so. Inherent in a quality product is pleasing aesthetics. Have you ever purchased a high quality leather bag and realized that you have a hard time peeling your eyes from it? When I purchased one of my first high quality leather products, an iPad sleeve, I had a hard time not staring at it. It was beautiful. The color of the leather. The perfect stitching. The clean cuts. Perhaps I was a little obsessed, but the point is that an inherent quality of the sleeve was it’s aesthetics. A crappy product may look good, but a quality product never looks poor. Similarly, a quality product not only looks like it’s quality, but functions like it too.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

Avund Goods Changer V Review - $223

Ashland Leather’s Shell Cordovan & Chromexcel Polishing Steps

This is a syndicated article from the blog of Ashland Leather.

Shell cordovan has always been an amazing leather choice for footwear. Because of its beauty and durability it’s also the ultimate leather for a wallet. When used in a wallet, shell cordovan experiences a natural polishing effect from the rubbing action of being frequently pulled from your pocket. Furthermore, any moisture from your body will actually expedite the patina process. Developing a great looking wallet is as simple as just wearing it – it’s best to not over-think this one!

The process for polishing Shell Cordovan is identical to polishing Chromexcel.

Ashland Leather’s Shell Cordovan & Chromexcel Polishing Steps

1) Take a fine horsehair brush and brush the wallet for a minute or two to remove dirt and liven up the natural greases and oils within the leather. (Note: this may be all you need to do if the wallet looks great at this point!)

1Ashland Leather Co - Polishing shell cordovan Fat Herbie - first brush1

2) Take a very lightly dampened soft cloth and quickly rub down the entire wallet. This will remove more dirt from the wallet. We like to do this step to even out some of the color and help activate the grease and oil in the skin. This step is how we create the base luster in the shell cordovan.

3Ashland Leather Co - Polishing shell cordovan Fat Herbie - damp cloth

3) Get your fine horsehair brush out again and brush your wallet thoroughly for about 5 minutes. This step is important to bring out the deep luster in the leather.

4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan – at Ashland we use Venetian Cream to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Apply evenly to a cloudy haze.

6Ashland Leather Co - Polishing shell cordovan Fat Herbie - Venetian cream 1

5) Let the wallet sit for 10 minutes or more.

6) Buff off the polish with a dry cloth.

7) You can give a breath on the wallet to apply a small amount of moisture, give a quick, final brushing and enjoy your freshly polished wallet!

7Ashland Leather Co - Polishing shell cordovan Fat Herbie - buff cloth 1

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Most of us would define quality similarly to the Webster Dictionary: “How good or bad something is”. At BestLeather.org, we define quality as how well crafted a leather product is.

One way of looking at quality is as a means of comparison from one thing to another. You may look at a product and think that it is a quality product, because it is better than another product you’re aware of. Most would agree that a Subway or Blimpie’s sandwich is better quality than your homemade PB & J. Does that mean that the Subway sandwich is the highest quality sandwich, or just better quality than. If you compared a Croque Monsieur sandwich at Les Deux Magots in France to your local Subway Meatball Marinara, you could then possibly argue that the Subway sandwich is not really a quality sandwich at all, at least compared to the French sarnie.

Considering that we care about leather here at BestLeather.org, lets look at a leather example. Would you consider a leather wallet made by Louis Vuitton in Italy better quality than one made by Tommy Hilfiger in India. The Vuitton costs over $600 and the Hilfiger under $30. Is a wallet by Saddleback Leather, which costs $59 of a higher quality than the Vuitton wallet? How would one determine which is the better quality and which is worth the money? What are the criteria, tangible and intangible, that determines whether something is high quality or not? Is there a price point, at which higher quality produces diminishing returns?

These questions can best be answered in looking at five hallmarks of quality. It is important to first note that quality can be applied to just about every facet of our lives: relationships, food, writing, time, professions, goods, etc. For the purposes of this article, let’s stick to quality as it relates to goods, and more particularly, leather. This list is not exhaustive, but encompasses a broad spectrum of quality.

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durability

The hallmark most of us would initially consider in relation to quality goods would be durability – how well a product wears over time. This is the case for good reason; most of us accept that when a product lasts a long time it is of good quality. In most cases, durability is a great indicator of a quality product.

For a good to last a long time, there are certain processes and materials used, to ensure that the product endures over time. A backpack that is made from full grain leather, that has been expertly tanned, dyed all of the way through the grain, is doubtless going to last longer than one that has been stripped down to the weaker leather fibers, tanned in an expedient fashion, and simply painted. The fact that a backpack can last you many years, even many decades, illustrates the pinnacle of the definition of construction quality. One that falls apart after a year or two of periodic, or even heavy use, illustrates a product that was not quality made. When it comes to leather goods, you have to look at three key factors that determine durability.

Helm Boots Chromexcel Bloom Article2

1. Type of leather used.

Full grain leather is simply the best leather that can be used in the making of most leather goods. Top grain leather, genuine leather, or bonded leather, are all lesser versions of their stronger brother. They lack the grain strength that comes from using the more densely packed fibers of the outer layer of the animal skin, and therefore lose some of the durability. Top grain leather can be an exception in some cases, because it is also the outer layer of the animal skin, but is still shaved down to meet certain applications. When looking for a high quality leather product, look for full grain to ensure you are getting the most durable good possible.

2. Tanning process.

How a hide is tanned, makes all of the difference in the end quality and durability of the leather. You can start with a quality, full grain hide, and if poorly tanned, that leather might as well be vinyl.

There are two major methods of tanning: chrome based tanning and vegetable tanning. There are many other, less common methods of tanning (i.e. brain tanned, alum tanned, aldehyde tanned, etc.), but considering that veg and chrome tanning are the most common, let us focus on those.

Vegetable tanning uses naturally occurring extracts, such as tree bark, to slowly tan a hide. The process takes weeks, and when done properly results in an extremely durable hide used in a variety of leather goods.

Chrome based tanning occurs by tumbling hides with metal chromium. This method was developed in the mid 19th century and resulted in a much quicker process of tanning a hide.

Vegetable tanned leathers are considered by some to be more durable than chrome tanned leathers. The majority of junk leather is chrome tanned, which perhaps explains the negative association, but not all chrome tanning is produces less durable leather. The Horween Company in Chicago produces a fine chrome tanned leather that is used in quality leather goods. These leathers can last as long as vegetable tanned leathers, because of the strict adherence to a quality process.

The important aspect in deciding which tanning process is most appropriate will depend on the end use of the leather, and the quality of the process itself.

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3. Construction

Without proper construction, the best leather, tanned with the best process, will eventually break or fall apart. Outside of proper design, the most crucial aspect of construction is the choice of thread used. There are a few varieties of thread used in quality leather goods. Polyester, nylon, and linen are the most common (artificial sinew, dacron, leather cord are other, less common choices) . With these, there are an abundance of options as well – waxed, unwaxed, bonded, unbonded, you get the point. The importance is to choose the thread that is most appropriate for the leather, the product, and the stitching method.

Another component in high quality leather bags is the use of rivets. The use of rivets is a classic example of over engineering. Rivets strengthen a bag beyond what only stitching can do. A properly placed rivet prevents seams from separating and further strengthens the stitching. Well placed rivets and evenly spaced stitching can also be quite beautiful.

read more in the Buy It for Life series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag

What Is Quality - A Treatise05

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review – $450

For the past few weeks we have been reviewing the canvas and leather Dispatch messenger bag from Thrux Lawrence and are thoroughly impressed with its usability and durability. This bag is bringing serious competition to well established companies such as Filson and Duluth Trading. The Dispatch is the Thrux Lawrence model of a messenger bag. Thrux Lawrence large carry goods are all made with heavy 24 oz canvas and Horween leather.

Previously we have reviewed the Thrux Pack as well as a the Key Post from Thrux Lawrence.

Many thanks to Matt Leitholt for shooting several of these excellent photos.

aesthetic

The rule of thirds is a commonly known rule in photography and design. For some reason, things look good segmented into thirds. No one knows why but if you analyze the dimensions of an Aston Martin or a famous photo it will be designed in thirds. Much of the Dispatch design follows this rule of thirds, loosely, and consequently looks decently sharp.

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You can buy the Dispatch in sixteen different color variations between color options in leather and canvas. The colors are muted and tasteful and give a lot of style options. The dark burgundy leather looks more collegiate while the whisky color is more casual.

Tanden, the owner and designer of the Thrux Lawrence brand, has included some interesting visual details as well. For example, on each bag from Thrux there will be an original vintage photo slipped into a side pocket specially included for that picture.

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Each bag is marked with it’s generation number and batch number since they are manufactured in limited runs.

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functionality

Carrying this bag on a daily basis has been enjoyable because of it’s excellent style and functionality.

The Dispatch measures 13″ tall by 16.5″ wide by 5.5″ deep which lends itself to carrying quite a bit. Plus, the flexible canvas allows more room for goodies.

Here’s a picture of the Dispatch as it went with me to Philadelphia. As you can see I have quite a bit stuffed in. A DSLR with lens, an extra lens, 13” MacBook and charger, Saddleback Leather Moleskin Cover, iPad, paperwork folder, and various sundry items like headphones and pens. It is very full. The weight of the bag was a hefty seventeen pounds.

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One of the complaints with the Thrux Pack was a lack of individual storage compartments which basically forced everything into the large main compartment. This is not so with the Dispatch. There are six pockets to separate out your goodies.

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A zippered pocket in front sporting a #10 zipper from YKK. Plenty to hold small items such as keys and headphones.

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A pocket for your laptop charger. The main compartment which is obviously big enough for a large camera and an extra lens. The document pocket will fit a couple books or quite a stack of paper. Finally, the laptop slot will fit a 15” laptop nicely and even stretch for a 17″ laptop.

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While it will fit an enormous load I appreciated that the design looks great when not crammed full. Some bags slump and fold up if not filled to capacity and the Dispatch is not one of them thanks to the rigid double stitched leather base.

The leather handle is perfectly comfortable and is secured with four rivets and copious stitching.

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At first I was concerned that the gap between the side and the top flap would allow water into the bag but as soon as the bag is picked up the gap is pinched shut against the top flap by the shoulder strap.

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However, I do have one gripe about the shoulder strap. The snaps that hold the shoulder strap on the bag will suddenly disconnect if the strap is twisted when you pick it up due to the orientation of the d-rings pushing against the brass snap gate. Thankfully this only happens when you have a grip on the shoulder strap and only one unclips at a time so you have a chance to catch the bag before it falls on the floor with your expensive things inside. We did mention this flaw to Tanden and he is sourcing new hardware which will remedy this.

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Thrux Lawrence has replaced that hideous hardware with some killer clasps. These are unlike anything I have ever seen and are perposterously expensive, but so be it. They have a locking mechanism and won’t ever repeat the mistake of the first clasp i.e. involuntarily disconnecting when the bag is picked up.

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construction

Seventeen pounds is a lot to be carrying on one shoulder while marching through the endless corridors of the Minneapolis airport. Thankfully, one certainly doesn’t have to worry about the bag coming apart. It is built hefty. The base plate that makes up the foundation of each Thrux bag is double stitched and composed of multiple layers of leather. The leather base has a 600 pound pull apart strength, you know, just in case.

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The hardware is all brass, #9 solid rivets (these can break weak snips), the leather is a heavy 9-10 oz, and the 350 denier nylon thread was sourced from a top secret facility that restarted production just to supply Thrux Lawrence. The hand hammered rivets that are used pinch the leather all around it instead of letting the rivet hole take all the burden and potentially rip out.

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The chrome tanned leather is sourced from the well known Horween tannery which has been around since 1905. As well known and as high quality of leather that Horween produces they are not easy to purchase from. Because of the high demand for their leather it can take a while to be taken care of and I have personally heard from more than five leather companies that say wait times, shipping costs, and attention to detail is often lacking. But, the leather is good. Perhaps the recent surge of popularity in Horween goods will motivate them to improve their service.

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the Thrux Lawrence store

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Tanden just opened up his first store in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and it is a visual treat. Literal bombshell light fixtures, a 1947 pool table, cafe motorcycles, an attached barbershop, and of course the Thrux Lawrence goods. It is worth a visit if you happen to be passing through Spokane or touring beautiful north Idaho.

BestLeather conclusion

At the $450 price point you have a variety of options in canvas and leather. Filson, Duluth, and Frost River come to mind. However, none of their materials compare with the heavy thread, #10 YKK zipper, lush Horween leather, 24 oz canvas (filson uses 22 oz and MUCH lighter thread). It is no contest if you are looking for a bag to serve you and your generations well.

Check out the Dispatch from Thrux Lawrence here.

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Great Video From Moore & Giles On How Their Leather Is Made

Moore & Giles uses leather tanned in Italy. On a recent trip to their tannery they made this fantastic video featuring each step of their leather making process. What I found particularly interesting is the modern equipment featured in the film compared to some other renowned tanneries such as Horween that seem like not much has changed for a hundred years.

Source: https://www.mooreandgiles.com/resources/how-leather-is-made/

Included for comparison; this video by Trunk Club of the Horween facility.

How To Work With Wax Bloom On Chromexcel Leather

This is a syndicated post from the blog of Helm Boots discussing how to capitalize on the white waxy coating Chromexcel boots can get.

Chromexcel bloom

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So you’ve had your HELM Boots for a little bit. They’ve probably made you happy and maybe you’ve gotten some compliments. Then all of a sudden you go to pull them out of the closet and hey… what’s that white powdery stuff on the leather? It doesn’t appear on all of HELMs leathers but the boots that use Chromexcel from Horween (the Ben – pictured, the Marion Olive, The Sam Navy, The Railroad and The Reid Brown) will probably show it at some point. Chromexcel leather is notoriously fatty and waxy. It’s what makes it so desirable and pliable and durable and lux and long lasting and… The Horween tannery adds a lot of oil and wax to the leather during the tanning process. Sometimes this oil and wax and grease will migrate through the leather and react with air on the surface to crystallize and that’s what causes the Bloom or Spue to appear. It will look like a powdery or chalky substance on the surface of the leather. You can see it in the above pic at the top of the shaft and around the lace eyelets. The amount of wax used in tanning along with exposure to high temps, humidity, air and light all contribute to Bloom.

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Bloom can be removed just by a simple brush with the horsehair brush or a rub with a shoe cloth. Our Ben Sample at the HELM Office Bloomed this month and we buffed it to a high shine with our horsehair paddle brush and nothing else. You don’t generally need to add anything to these Chromexcel leathers as they are so nourished already during the production process.

Learn more about the famous chromexcel leather HERE.

Do you have any photos of Chromexcel leather blooming?

Can A Lady Wear A Rugged Leather Bag? Absolutely!

This is a guest post by Kristin from Los Angeles, California.

I’ve had this bag since August of 2013. I liked it when I first saw it but since then I have grown to love it more and more.

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It’s a beautiful coffee brown Marlondo Leather Classic Briefcase. It has a strap that can either make it a one shoulder briefcase or a backpack. That feature is extremely useful because of the weight of the bag. I am a young lady and not terribly weak, but this bag is heavy when you put a computer and a few books in it. I have a huge dell laptop (which adds a lot of weight) and so when I had it during school I couldn’t take it to all my classes like I needed too because I didn’t know about the backpack option and the one shoulder that it was hanging on started hurting really badly. However, I soon learned how to make it a backpack and since then I have had no issues at all.
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It has two main pockets, two smaller pockets on the inside, and one pocket on each end outside the bag. The leather is strong and durable. There was a time where I accidentally dropped it with my computer in it but the bag protected my computer and it had no damage whatsoever. It holds and protects its contents quite well.

It’s very professional looking and perfect for my meetings with photography clients.

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Like I said before, I used my bag primarily for school. I was using it on a daily basis taking my books and computer to classes and in that way, the bag is tremendous! I also have used it as a camera bag. It protects my gear as well as holds it all with plenty of room.

The bag is extremely durable. It is extremely comforting knowing that I don’t have to worry about it falling apart and breaking. The wear and tear that the leather gets looks awesome and as time goes on the bag simply looks cooler. It has some scratches on the front but they add character to the bag.

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I get comments and compliments on the bag everywhere I go. People are very impressed with the quality and appearance of the bag. It’s very classy and professional looking. I feel pretty cool walking around with it.

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Review of The Beast – Saddleback Leather’s Large Duffel Bag – $907

“Holy Cow”!  I think those were the first words I uttered when I opened up the oversized box and pulled out The Beast.  I purchased The Beast Duffel bag from Saddleback Leather as a Christmas present to myself.  It is a bag meant for hauling serious gear, and can be found in Saddleback Leather’s luggage section.

Continue reading “Review of The Beast – Saddleback Leather’s Large Duffel Bag – $907”

White Wing Label Canvas Tote Review

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White Wing Label was founded in 2010 by two brothers out to live a dream. That dream was to create 100% American made textile products. Three years later, that dream is fulfilled in White Wing Label, a company based out of Texas that makes men’s luggage and equipment. Bestleather.org had the opportunity to review a new tote that is being added to their product line.

functionality

This tote from White Wing Label is a simple, yet timeless bag. It is a good blend of durability and class. The sturdy construction equals a solid bag that should resist wear and tear. The straps have small brass hardware, giving it a nice touch without being too industrial.

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construction

The construction is a solid canvas with a fully lined interior and leather straps. It appears like it would be easy to wipe off if something were spilled inside. Empty, it stands up without falling over, which is always a big plus when I am looking into getting any kind of bag.

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pockets

There is one interior pocket with a zipper that is almost the width of the bag. It is a very shallow pocket which can be good or bad depending on your needs. It is good in that you won’t have to be fishing to the bottom of a large pocket looking for a small object- it is bad in that it is just barely deep enough for a wallet. There are two pockets on the sides of the exterior, ideal size for a water bottle or glasses case.

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Bestleather conclusion

Overall this a nice, sturdy tote that would be well suited for either a man or lady’s weekend travel bag.