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June 25, 2014December 19, 2017

A Review of Winter Session’s Snap Wallet – $90

Winter Session was founded in Chicago in 2010 by Roy Katz, Tanya Fleisher, and Tristan Coulter. They began sewing together bags and aprons, with their project slowly gaining momentum as they began working with leather. In 2013, they uprooted and moved west to Denver, Colorado, where Winter Session is now based. Roy and Tanya describe their mission as “to design and produce thoughtful, well-made things in a responsible manner. Operating on a flexible scale, we combine traditional methods and innovative technology to find a balance between utilitarian function, durability and aesthetic appeal. We work hard to create affordable, high quality products meant to last.” And they have succeeded at that, with this, the newest iteration of their Snap Wallet.

Handsome and well worn in after a few months of heavy use.

construction and materials

The Snap Wallet from Winter Session is made of 4oz waxed Horween Dublin leather and stitched together with Irish waxed linen thread. The wallet features a single flap with a brass snap.

Horween Dublin is a vegetable tanned leather which is struck through (dyed uniformly through the piece). Dublin is a soft, smooth leather which will continue to soften with time and age, as well as obtain a beautiful patina (as you can see with my wallet after 3 months of constant use).

Beautiful Tobacco Dublin leather from Horween.

Irish waxed linen thread is actually a specific type of thread, something I did not know of prior to writing this review. I did some Googling and found that Irish waxed linen thread is very popular with jewelry making, as it is easy to slide through small holes and holds a knot very well, as well as its tensile strength. These qualities make Irish waxed linen thread an ideal leather working thread. It is a natural, braided, and waxed cloth thread, which is dyed in this case to an Olive color. Irish waxed linen is a very strong, natural thread which looks handsome and does its job well.

aesthetic

The Snap wallet is, in a word, gorgeous. The leather, in my case, is the Horween Tobacco Dublin, which is a lighter brown, but not as light as you might expect. It has a very beautiful richness to it. This placed with the dark green thread and the brass snap makes this wallet very appealing in a down to earth sort of way.

The wallet has a very simple, clean aesthetic which I am definitely drawn to. Very clean lines, good angles, very simple, very classy.

After a few months of heavy use, it has developed a beautiful patina, which has enhanced the beauty tenfold.

design and function

The Snap wallet features three pockets, two inside the flap and one on the back of the wallet itself. The pockets are all cut with the same angle, an obtuse rounded sort of thing. I really like this. The pockets are uniform and well thought out, as you can reach all of your cards easily without too much hassle. Not to mention it juxtaposes a classy modern touch to a rustic piece of leather, which really adds to the beauty of the piece.

This is an essentials wallet. What I mean by essentials is that you will not be able to truck around 50 cards in this thing. But do you really need 50 cards? I have found that by using a minimal wallet such as the Snap wallet, I have simplified my life. I do not need 50 cards; I really just need 5 or 6 cards and a few bills. Simplify, simplify, simplify.

BestLeather conclusion

The Snap wallet from Winter Session has become my go-to, everyday carry wallet. It holds exactly what I need and nothing more. It has been with me to Europe (Euros as well as GBP and Suisse Franc fit well in this wallet), Seattle, Portland, the Sawtooth Mountains, the Bitterroot Mountains, the Northern Cascades, and it has not looked out of place anywhere. The Snap wallet is classy, functional, beautiful, durable, and overall a great piece to add to your collection. If you are a fan of minimalist wallets, this is for you. If you are a fan of bifolds but want to simplify, this is for you. If you have 50 cards and are insistent that you need all of them, maybe this is not for you, but I would still recommend it as a treatment for your hoarding habit. At $90, the Snap wallet fits right into the usual price range for wallets of this type. You are paying for handmade quality with some of the best materials available and it is absolutely worth your money.

Check out the Winter Session Snap Wallet here.

June 20, 2014January 25, 2020

Eight Month Checkup On The Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack – $582

My Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack gets used every day. It’s been a trusty backpack to haul quite a lot to quite a few places. I have simutaneously carried a 17″ MacBook, Canon 6D, extra large lens, notebooks, several books, chargers, and lots of miscellaneous items on long trips. There are two huge advantages to this bag that make it much more usable than the Classic Tank backpack; it’s comfortable and roomy.

Soon it will be replaced by the Basader Gusset Messenger Bag.

after eight months – is it comfortable?

Comfort is ensured with shoulder straps that are flexible and break in quick. The previous iteration had straps that weren’t terrible, but would cause serious chafing if you carried it for several hours. Also, the back of the backpack is one large piece of leather that molds to your back instead of molding a crease into it. This is the most comfortable leather product, including briefcases, I have used that has this kind of capacity.

Because of the more flexible design and some extra inches, you can fit a lot more in there. Overnight trips, school, work, diaper bag, whatever–it’s going to fit a lot.

But, that stuff is boring and you probably already know because I wrote a few reviews on it already.

patina – that nice aged look

The interesting bit is the patina–that classy aged look leather acquires when it is used. Here are some pictures from this evening in a nice sunset. This is something like eight months of use. The most wear is on the bottom of the bag and I provided a close up photo of the thread.

(Pro tip: if you want to take good pictures of your goodies, wait till the sun is coming up or going down. It’s very soft warm light.)

Check out the Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack here.

Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack

June 19, 2014December 19, 2017

About The Hermann Oak Leather Company

The Hermann Oak Leather Company was founded in 1881 by Louis Charles Hermann to supply the settlers and wagon trains headed west. The company grew over the years and became a supplier of leather for US soldiers in both World Wars, and countless artisans and craftsman since.

Since its inception, the company has been committed to producing the highest quality vegetable tanned leathers for a variety of purposes. Today, the company is actively managed by Shep Hermann, one of the nicest guys you could talk to, who is committed to continuing the company’s traditional methods of tanning, but implementing new technologies and systems where appropriate. When speaking to Shep about his company, it quickly became obvious that he has a passion for quality leather and continuing Hermann Oak’s storied traditions. He is extremely knowledgeable and is happy to share that knowledge.

HIGH QUALITY FURNITURE

In my conversation with Shep, he likened vegetable tanned leather to high quality furniture. When building furniture out of high quality wood, like mahogany or walnut, you do not paint the wood after building the furniture; you stain it. Stain is comprised of smaller molecules that actually adhere to the wood. The stain allows you to see and appreciate the fine grains and beautiful natural appearance of the underlying wood.

Similarly, with vegetable tanned leather, the leather is tanned using an age old tanning process with organic tree barks. The underlying tone of the leather is a rich natural brown, like wood, and this tanning process allows you to appreciate the underlying beauty of the leather. This is especially true when using full grain leather, which Hermann Oak supplies. Most leathers were vegetable tanned like this prior to 1900. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather is then finished in the old fashioned way using analine dyes, oils, and waxes. Like staining wood, this does not cover up the underlying color of the leather.

Chrome tanned leather, on the other hand, has an underlying blue/gray appearance and is finished with pigments (which is basically paint). These pigments are comprised of larger molecules that are basically glued to the leather. This covers the leather, so that you cannot see what is underneath. This process is similar to painting a pine cabinet. What is underneath is different than what you see on the outside. Chrome tanned leather certainly has its place, like painted pine furniture does, but that place is not with high quality leather products. Hermann Oak leather is more like a beautiful mahogany sideboard. Even though the wood is highly finished, you still can see and appreciate the beautiful underlying wood grains. Many of the leather goods we have reviewed in past articles are made from Hermann Oak leather, a testament to a high quality product.

ADVANTAGES OF VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER

Shep pointed out a few other things that were interesting about their vegetable tanned leather:

1. Vegetable tanned leather has more body (firmness). It is more rich and more rigid. This is a result of the process of tanning leather with natural tree barks. Chrome tanned leather is softer and much more pliable.

2. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather is always cool to the touch, because vegetable tanned leather is actually an insulator. Conversely, chrome tanned leather is a conductor, and the leather is either hot or cold to the touch, depending on the environment. Have you ever sat on your car’s leather seats on a summer day? Ouch!

3. Vegetable tanned leather can also be rubbed smooth or burnished, whereas chrome tanned leather cannot.

4. Vegetable tanned leather is also mold-able and can be shaped to meet various needs, whereas chrome tanned leather cannot.

5. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather will accept oils from your hands and the result is that vegetable tanned leather patinas over time, giving the leather a beautiful, aged look. Chrome tanned leather does not patina.

Hermann Oak sent BestLeather.org four of their premium hides, two of their English Bridle, one Sierra Latigo, and one Harness side. These leathers are all similar in respects, but they also have a few differences that give them their distinguishing characteristics.

OIL CONTENT

Possibly the biggest difference is the oil content in the different leathers. English Bridle has the least amount of oil. The Latigo has a middle amount of oil and is meant to secure a saddle onto a horse. It is meant to be more sweat resistant than English Bridle. The Harness Leather has the highest amount of beef tallows or oils. This is meant for working harnesses for horses. It is meant to be very resistant to horse sweat, rain, sun, snow, and the elements in general. The English Bridle is the firmest, but Harness is pretty similar in firmness. Latigo is the softest leather of the three. The Latigo is most similar to what was produced 100 years ago by Hermann Oak. English Bridle also has a higher degree of finish. The Latigo and Harness are more of the working leathers and the English Bridle is meant to have a finer appearance. The English Bridle has special waxes to give it a shine and finer appearance.

FUTURE BESTLEATHER ARTICLES

Best Leather will be posting separate articles on each of these four hides and will highlight some of these differences. Stay tuned to learn more about Hermann Oak’s premium leathers. In the meantime, take a video tour of their process and tannery.

June 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Kenton Sorenson Modern Man Front Pocket Wallet Review – $90

Leatherworking can be art. Each leather company is looking for a way to do something different. Everyone wants to be unique, to stand out for doing things better. Because there are only so many things you can do with leather, it’s not uncommon to see similar designs (sometimes with fancy expensive letters being sent from lawyers). The eye for design escapes many who punch and stitch, but not Kenton Sorenson. Vegetable tanned leather is what Kenton does. You could say he specializes in it. Frankly, design wise, he is my favorite. And I’ve seen a lot of leather.

construction

The leather is a tight grain 4 oz vegetable tan cowhide. High quality. You can feel the quality in how dense the leather is. The microscopic strands that make up the leather are very small and tightly packed together. This is because the leather is taken from the best part of the hide, which is generally the midsection and the rear quarter. The rest of the hide can be fine for use but premium leather goods are generally cut from this area because there are less stretch marks or scars. Stretch marks are where the hide has to absorb the impact of movement. The stomach of the cow has the most stretch marks. Thread is bonded nylon which is extremely strong. A groove is cut into the leather that the thread sits in so it doesn’t wear a lot as you pull it out. The edges are very well burnished. My style preference is for any sophisticated leather piece to have well burnished edges

function

Dimensionally this wallet is no bigger than any other wallet and yet for its minimal design you can fit a lot in it. It has a large center slot pocket and slit pockets on each side. At the moment I have 6 credit card-like cards, several bills of cash, and eleven business cards without feeling like there is too much in it. Normally a wallet that can pack that much has so many layers of leather that it is more like a booster seat. I like to have my oft-used credit card in one side slit, cash and frequent buyer coffee card in the other, and business cards and ancillary credit cards and DL in the center slot. The main advantage over other minimal wallets is speed. With two quick access pockets you don’t hold up the checkout line sorting through your wallet.

aesthetic

There are four defining features, in my opinion, that imbue this design with class: the well burnished edges, the perfectly curved outer pockets, the inlaid stitching, and the excellent vegetable tanned leather. Burnishing is time consuming and often overlooked; it’s rare to find leather cut this perfectly. The inlaid stitching is a nice functional touch, and the vegetable tanned leather only gets better with use. A fine feature of veg tanned leather goods is the patina the item will acquire. As you use your wallet it will turn a golden brown hue.

conclusion

You very much get what you pay for with this wallet. Some will charge you this kind of money for a much sloppier wallet and call it rustic. Whatever their reasoning, few match this level of craftsmanship and skill. For $90, you can have a beautiful and entirely usable minimal wallet. Oh, and it fits in more than just your front pocket. Check out the Kenton Sorenson Modern Man Front Pocket Wallet.

June 11, 2014December 19, 2017

The Freight Duffel from Thrux Lawrence Review – $570

Thrux Lawrence is a men’s essential dry goods supplier out of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, with a philosophy of building the highest quality goods from the highest quality materials. Products from Thrux will certainly outlast you and the following generation to come. To read more about Thrux Lawrence and its founder Tanden Launder, please check out my previous article here. The latest product to come out of the imagination of Tanden Launder, owner, founder, and designer at Thrux Lawrence, is a duffel like none that I have ever seen. Without further ado, I give you the Freight from Thrux Lawrence.

the Freight Duffel

Tanden wanted to create a bag that could be used on longer journeys without sacrificing size or quality–a bag that could carry all of your essentials for longer forays. The result was a duffel bag in full Thrux style, complete with the classic “Thrux Tray” (a solid, two layer 9oz leather base plate) and 24oz anti-mildew canvas. In other words, this is not your Samsonite rolling suitcase. This is a bag meant to take on the world and take it with style.

construction and materials

In classic Thrux style, the Freight is built to withstand everything you can throw at it. The thread is 350 and 277 tex waxed cotton thread which was specifically designed for his bags — he chose it because it was some of the most durable thread available, as it will not deteriorate after exposure to sunlight as nylon thread does.

This is some seriously heavy duty thread, as seen on the shoulder strap.

The Freight uses open box stitching techniques coupled with #9 solid brass rivets to attach the handle and the shoulder strap. The open box stitching is an important facet in the design, as it improves the longevity of the bag ten fold. Open box basically means that the stitching attaching the leather to the canvas is an open square; when bags have a closed square, it creates what is basically a perforated line in the leather at the highest stress point, which heavily increases the likelihood of the strap failing. The open box stitching combined with the rivets will allow the Freight withstand a lifetime of heavy use without any signs of tearing.

Open box stitching coupled with a hinged handle and #9 rivets. This is beyond solid.

The zippers are enormous #10 YKK zippers with beautiful leather pull tabs. YKK zippers are all metal and seriously tough. The leather is 9oz Horween Latigo, which is renowned for its durability and strength. The canvas is 24oz anti-mildew canvas — quite literally the heaviest canvas you can get. For the record, it is even heavier than the stuff that Filson uses. This canvas is beyond hefty. It is impervious to water, making this bag a great travelling companion. The clasps which attach the shoulder strap are literally durable beyond words. They are locking brass clasps that look like they can take a bunch of abuse without any problems — plus, they will not release if they are torqued a certain way, making the bag much more secure.

aesthetic

The Freight actually looks like a freight train engine. Something about the way it is shaped — with the rounded sides and flat bottom. It is in classic Thrux style: beauty through durable simplicity. The Bark on Gravel color perfectly compliments this simplistic style. The Freight, as with all Thrux bags, features a specially designed pocket for a vintage photograph, which Tanden specifically chooses for each bag. I love this — it adds a real personality, a life to the bag.

function

The Freight features a pen and pencils pocket and a larger pocket within the main compartment, as well as a laptop/document sleeve and a smaller zippered pocket for your essentials on the outside. The main compartment is copiously large — big enough for a month long trip, if you pack right.

The function of this bag is exceptional. Very simple — clothes in the bag, important smaller stuff on the outside. I like the simplicity, as it takes away the complicated nature of packing associated with a billion different pockets and compartments to choose from.

Considering the shoulder strap is basically 18oz leather (two 9oz pieces stitched together), it can be slightly uncomfortable for extended periods of use, especially when you are running through airports. I have no problems with this discomfort, however, as it indicates the incredible durability of the shoulder strap. Discomfort indicates quality in this market.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a handsome, beautifully simple, tough-as-nails duffel, look no further than the Freight from Thrux Lawrence. It will set you back $570, but you are paying for American-handmade quality the way it should be. The Freight will last you a lifetime of adventure across all corners of the globe.

Handmade in America by a guy named Zach.

June 5, 2014December 19, 2017