TRAYVAX ELEMENT WALLET & KEYTON KEYCHAIN Black Edition REVIEW – $84.99 & 14.99

Our last look at a Trayvax wallet proved wildly popular among our readers and nabbed the staff pick for best wallet of 2015 here at BestLeather. Trayvax is at it again with a new special Black Edition Trayvax Element version of the original, plus the Keyton Bottle Opener Keychain. If the good ol’ bifold just isn’t honking your horn anymore, read on.

CONSTRUCTION

On paper, the Trayvax Element Black Edition is virtually identical to the standard Element. The main difference is Cerakote (a baked on ceramic layer that makes the metal appear black) provides more corrosion resistance after exposure to weather and use over time. The recipe still utilizes 5oz chrome tanned, top grain leather around the stainless steel frame. Mil-spec 550 type III paracord binds the leather to steel. As always, the Element is 100% Made in the US.

The same US sourced leather is used for the Keyton as well as 304 stainless steel for the loop/bottle opener.

FUNCTION

The Element shines through as a utilitarian tool for carrying your cash and cards. The leather snap secures your contents in place, allowing the wallet to tp be carried in virtually any manner without risk of losing anything. The grommet at the top makes for a perfect option to run some paracord through so you can wear it around your neck, or attach a carabiner and have it hanging from your pack. Cash is stored in the built in clip, allowing for quick access. Still not as convenient as a bifold but you compromise for the space savings. This wallet also has RFID protective qualities which is a nice assurance with today’s security issues. Card access remains straightforward, thoughtful card placement will save you time as you access frequently used cards and the money clip keeps your cash safe and tidy.

The Keyton is a simple device that loops through your belt, just make sure you put it on before your belt as it won’t unsnap. There is a Philips screw holding the leather together which can be removed, but I wouldn’t see the need. You will pretty much have to have some sort of quick detach device like a carabiner to allow unrestricted key retrieval. I think a sturdy spring release snaphook would have been more convenient than the fixed loop and a button to allow removal of the Keyton without taking off your belt would have made this device a home run. Sometimes though simple is better, the lack of those features also makes the Keyton pretty much indestructible. Did I mention it has a bottle opener hidden under the loop? Well now you know, and knowing is half the battle

AESTHETIC

The Element and Keyton go together like Kleenex and Steel Magnolias. The models reviewed are both tobacco brown. The tough metal wrapped in leather really adds serious character. Admittedly, the Keyton will usually remain unnoticed and is pretty simplistic anyways but the straightforward, no BS design has a certain appeal. The Element on the other hand refuses to go unnoticed. It’s so unwallety (yep made that word up) that people usually ask questions. The black Cerakote finish is great for getting that “Murdered Out” look so popular among EDCers.

One look at the Element and you just know that was the wallet in Arnie’s back pocket when he defeated the Predator.

CONCLUSION

Every Once in awhile a product comes along that offers a fresh take on a well worn idea. While the price tag will leave you with a lot less to put in your new wallet, you can bank on it lasting a long time. Simply put, the Trayvax Element Wallet & Keyton Keychain are a great option for anyone who’s sick of a plain old bifold and bunched up keys in your pocket.

June 24, 2016December 19, 2017

Mission Mercantile Laptop Sleeve Review – $115

After spending a good chunk of hard-earned cash on a new laptop, the last thing you want to do is cause any preventable harm to it. Thankfully, you can always pick up a laptop sleeve to keep it protected. Instead of getting an ugly, easily torn nylon or neoprene case, check out some of the leather and canvas options out there. One of those great options is the Mission Mercantile Laptop Sleeve.

ABOUT MISSION MERCANTILE

Mission Mercantile was launched in fall 2015. They operate out of their own factory in Leon, Mexico– Blue Artisan Group. We recently reviewed Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender, as well as their Steamer Backpack (which we are giving away here).

You can learn a bit more about Mission Mercantile in my recent interview with Chuck Bowen, one of MM’s founders, who has a passion for serving “mission men and women” who love leather goods.

CONSTRUCTION & AESTHETIC

The Laptop Sleeve is made with full-grain vegetable tanned leather and thick waxed canvas. It’s designed to pair with the Steamer Backpack, which uses the same materials and is offered in matching colors. They both have a similar vintage aesthetic and look great as a pair or separate. The contrasting stitching looks great against the dark “Oil” colored leather.

The interior is lightly padded and lined with matching suede. It keeps your expensive electronics protected and scratch-free without being too large or bulky.

FUNCTION

The Laptop Sleeve will hold up to a 16″ laptop. My trusty Macbook Pro is 13″ and fits nicely even with a bit of extra room on the sides. The padding holds it snugly. The closure is a straightforward strap and loop combination that’s simple enough for quick access but sturdy enough that it doesn’t feel like it will open up on its own.

CONCLUSION

The Mission Mercantile Laptop Sleeve is a beautiful, buy it for life item that will far outlast any laptop you put in it. And, you still have the chance to win this Laptop Sleeve AND the matching Steamer Backpack. Good luck!

June 1, 2016December 19, 2017

Speakeasy Leather Co. Launches New Line of Bags on Kickstarter

Speakeasy Leather Company, based in Milwaukee, WI, has launched a new Kickstarter campaign for a full collection of American-made leather bags. The bags, backed with a lifetime guarantee, are inspired by the “Prohibition Era” of American History. The bags in this collection all have a unique silhouette and represent several years of design and development.

The line includes the 1920 Overnight Duffle Bag, the 1933 Weekender Bag, the 1846 Messenger Bag, and the Bootlegger Backpack, available in four different leather colors – Burnt Timber, Red-Brown Gizmo, Tobacco Snakebite, and Rio Latigo. There are also some smaller items like a wallet, key fob, pen, cardholder, dopp kit, tablet sleeve, and more.

From the Kickstarter Campaign:

I am doing my part to rebuild the Milwaukee leather industry, preserve its history, and move it into the next century. Sourcing and manufacturing locally is the foundation of our success. With your support, we will be able to generate a positive impact in a time where it seems like everything is heading in the opposite direction. You become a major part in rewriting the future of the American leather-making and manufacturing industry. You are not just backing a product that is outsourced you’re backing a quality product that will last for generations and continue to tell the story you are now a part of.

The Kickstarter has already reached its goal, but it’s not too late to get one of these beautiful bags for a sizable discount, as well as help reach their stretch goals. Check it out!

June 1, 2016December 19, 2017

GIVEAWAY: Mission Mercantile Steamer Backpack & Laptop Sleeve ($460 Value!)

We are excited to partner with Mission Mercantile to offer our readers the chance to win a Steamer Backpack & Laptop Sleeve set. This is a beautiful carry set that will last you a lifetime and more. The backpack and sleeve are made with full grain veg tanned leather and thick waxed canvas.

From our review of the Steamer Backpack:

Many of Mission Mercantile’s products hark back to inspiration found in days gone by. The Steamer Backpack in particular was designed after the steamer bag – a sturdy, flat-bottom bag built to be packed into a larger steamer trunk that was loaded onto a train or steamboat for lengthy travel…The Steamer Backpack also has its roots in vintage mail sacks, many of which were mainly canvas but reinforced with sturdy leather at the bottom and top, where they featured a similar belted closure.
This backpack certainly has an eye-catching look, with its wide swath of solid waxed canvas and unique belted closure. The bag instantly looks like there’s a story behind it…so prepare to have LOTS of people ask you about it wherever you go.

The giveaway runs til midnight on June 30th, when we will pick one lucky winner! Enter below – we have lots of ways to enter, so good luck!

Mission Mercantile Steamer Backpack – $460 Value

May 26, 2016December 19, 2017

Mission Mercantile Steamer Backpack Review – $345

One of my favorite parts about the leather industry is the fascinating history behind many of the its traditions. It’s amazing how some of the smallest details of classic bag designs can have the most interesting backgrounds. Mission Mercantile is a company that really seems to share this passion for history, and their Steamer Backpack demonstrates this perfectly.

ABOUT MISSION MERCANTILE

Mission Mercantile is a new brand, launched in fall 2015. They operate out of their own factory in Leon, Mexico– Blue Artisan Group. We recently reviewed Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender, an incredibly tough overnight bag made entirely with full grain veg-tanned leather- just like all their products. Learn a bit more about the company in my recent interview with Chuck Bowen, one of MM’s founders, who is passionate about serving “mission men and women” who love leather goods.

AESTHETIC

Many of Mission Mercantile’s products hark back to inspiration found in days gone by. The Steamer Backpack in particular was designed after the steamer bag – a sturdy, flat-bottom bag built to be packed into a larger steamer trunk that was loaded onto a train or steamboat for lengthy travel. The steamer bag was, in fact, perfected by Louis Vuitton in the late Victorian era.

The Steamer Backpack also has its roots in vintage mail sacks, many of which were mainly canvas but reinforced with sturdy leather at the bottom and top, where they featured a similar belted closure.

This backpack certainly has an eye-catching look, with its wide swath of solid waxed canvas and unique belted closure. The bag instantly looks like there’s a story behind it…so prepare to have LOTS of people ask you about it wherever you go.

CONSTRUCTION & FUNCTION

The Steamer Backpack is made with full-grain vegetable tanned leather and thick waxed canvas. In accordance with its steamer and mail sack roots, it has a heavy, flat leather base with subtly squared edges, all held together with contrasting stitching and heavy rivets. It weights in at about 3 1/2 pounds, which is a nice medium weight for such a sturdy bag. Seeing as the bulk of the bag is canvas, it wears very comfortably for daily use.

The waxed canvas has survived several spring showers with no issue. There are three canvas color options and a total of six leather and canvas combinations at this time. The pictured backpack is Oil leather with Dirt canvas.

The bag is unlined with the exception of the top flap, which is lined with matching canvas. It measures around 14″ x 6″ x 18″, making it large enough to carry a laptop and school or business essentials. There’s also enough room to pack for an overnight trip. The bag is tapered, however, and is belted at the top, so larger items don’t fit in as easily as some wide-opening backpacks. Its tapered shape also makes it look kind of funny if there’s lots of stuff in it, but this isn’t an issue unless you have a habit of overpacking.

The ideal setup for this bag is to have your laptop and folders/notebooks at the back, and then chargers, wallet, and other small items at the front where they’ll sink down to the bottom and maintain the backpack’s nice tapered look. There’s a key strap and a hanging zippered pouch at the back, which works beautifully for keeping small items that you want to access quickly.

The Steamer Backpack has padded shoulder straps that are adjustable (about 6″ of adjustable length). The detachable straps attach at the bottom to two D-rings on either side, and a centered O-ring at the top. There’s a nice sturdy handle at the top, as well. The handles and solid brass hardware pieces all feel very sturdy and well-made.

The bag closes via a long belt that starts on the back of the bag, runs through three rectangular brass loops, and secures again at the back with a tuck lock. The belt closure with a quick release tuck lock is a nice compromise – it adheres to the aesthetic of vintage mailbags without requiring the user to padlock its contents every time. Still, the belt closure requires a little more patience than most backpacks, but its unique aesthetic is totally worth it.

CONCLUSION

The Mission Mercantile Steamer Backpack is another impressive piece from this young company’s product line. It’s a gorgeous, unique bag with heritage roots and a great story that just begs for more chapters. At $345, it’s priced very fairly for top-of-the-line materials (full grain leather, solid brass hardware, 18 oz canvas, etc.) that will last a lifetime and more.

*Keep an eye out next Wednesday, June 1st for an AWESOME giveaway from Mission Mercantile!*

May 25, 2016December 19, 2017

Crosby Square Findlay Shoes Review – $395

Sometimes it is truly difficult to stand out from the crowd. With so many similar styles, shapes, and colors in the men’s dress shoes industry, it requires true quality, craftsmanship, and a touch of heritage to be different. Crosby Square happens to check all of these boxes, and I am very excited to be reviewing their classic wingtip brogues: The Findlay.

About

The House of Crosby Square has quite the legacy when it comes to shoe making. This company began in 1867 as a small, two-man operation through the efforts of Alexis Beals and Ezra Torrey, two north-easterners with a knack for making military boots. After the two founders passed in 1925, Walter J. Booth decided to acquire the company. During the 1930’s, fashionable American men were shopping at London bespoke shoe shops due to the lack of premium men’s dress shoes in the States. Booth capitalized on this situation and decided to transform the industry, and Crosby Square (named after the famous London bespoke shops area) was officially born. Unfortunately, the brand fell off the industry radar in the 1970s due to casual styles and hippie trends. But this brings us to today; Crosby Square has been revitalized once again as a premium men’s welted footwear company, and the Findlay is an excellent example of the principles Crosby Square was originally founded on.

Construction

The beautiful Findlay is constructed in Spain with handpicked, premium leather using the Goodyear welting method. Check out this informative article a Best Leather writer put together if you’ve never heard of this method before. The Findlay’s premium construction is immediately evident by only taking a quick look. The expertly fashioned brogue application, thick leather outsole, stunning bordeaux color, and classic derby shape combine to make one gorgeous shoe. I have not found a single stitch out of place or crooked on the Goodyear welt or brogue. The Findlay is a truly high-quality, no-nonsense shoe, and it is obvious that intense passion and hard work went in to its construction.

Function

At the beginning, this long wing derby was very stiff and snug, but after several days of casual use, the snugness eventually went a way and now I can comfortably wear them all day long. I did experience some minor heel discomfort and an awkward gait over those first few days, but for me that is to be expected with premium leather footwear because I don’t have the average shaped foot. If I could find anything moderately negative to say about this shoe, it would be that the heel took the longest to form to my foot. Other than this very individually limited problem, Crosby Square has done a fantastic job with the construction, sizing, and feel of the shoe.

The Findlay is meant to be worn with a dressier wardrobe, but occasionally can be used to mix up your casual game, and the rich bordeaux color shines especially well when paired with dark colors.

Aesthetic

To be honest, when I first received the Findlay, I really didn’t want to wear them. Not because they didn’t fit, or it wasn’t my style, but because they were simply so beautiful. It sounds silly but I really did not want to mess the shoes up at all. Even now after I have worn them for a bit, I make sure to clean them every time I put them away. The high-shine leather and its hue are the best elements of the Findlay. Every person who notices the shoe, which is just about everyone, comments on the beautiful color and the classic wingtip brogue style. It simply is eye-catching. I have been thoroughly impressed with the quality level of Crosby Square. From the elegant Findlay all the way to the attractive packaging, Crosby Square is a business I am looking forward to working with again.

Conclusion

Any stylish man knows the importance of having a pair of wingtip brogues in their wardrobe. The Crosby Square Findlay‘s long wing derby shape is an excellent option for guys looking to delve into the premium men’s footwear scene. At $395, the Findlay is an expensive shoe, but for the quality of materials, Goodyear construction, and classic style of the shoe, it really is a fair price. Head over to the Crosby Square website and check out all of their great styles and the new Spring Collection.

May 19, 2016December 19, 2017

Range Leather Travellr with Razor Case Review – $105

I am one of those guys that has a ton of grooming products. I like to try the crazy new grooming trends, switch up my cologne for the seasons, and stay on top of the best products the industry offers. It’s just the way I am. That being said, I also happen to appreciate quality leather products, so why not have a quality dopp kit like the Range Leather Travellr with a razor case to haul my grooming essentials around?

About

Range Leather is small operation out of Spokane, Washington, focusing on accessory goods like valet trays, wallets, bracelets, and more, as well as taking custom orders. We have reviewed three other pieces from Range Leather in the past: the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case, the Gannet Wallet, and the Range Mug. BestLeather writer and fellow Washingtonian Jerry Higbee spent some time interviewing Kyle Koster, the founder of Range Leather, and I highly recommend spending the time reading through and listening to his series, A Range of Possibilities.

Construction

The Range Leather Travellr is built by hand in the United States from a full grain Horween leather called Buccaneer. The Buccaneer leather is actually water resistant, so it makes perfect sense to be used for a dopp kit like the Travellr. The leather is paired with copper rivets, premium brass hardware, genuine YKK zippers and durable thread. At 9.5 inches long by 6 inches wide, and 2.5 inches deep, the Travellr is a practically constructed dopp kit.

My only gripe (and it is a very small one) with the construction is that the zipper doesn’t quite close all the way because of the abrupt edge, but this will go away once the leather is worn and loosened just a bit. I have been using the Travellr for a few weeks, and it is still a joy to open it up every morning. Range Leather also offers a lifetime warranty, should anything break.

Function

I subscribe to Birchbox Man and receive new stuff every month, so I have a large stock of men’s products I like to carry with me in my Travellr. I am able to store my toothbrush, toothpaste, cologne, deodorant, body lotion, contact case, facial cleanser, shaving cream, and my razor, which is protected by the standard razor case. The razor cases are a very cool concept birthed from an unfortunate experience. They are equally useful for keeping your razor in tip-top shape and protecting yourself and others from slices.

Although several of these are travel size, this is quite of list of grooming products that fit into this slim dopp kit. The slim size is perfect for slipping inside your bag or even attaching to the outside of a bag with the small D-ring. Over just a few weeks the Travellr has stretched just enough to fit all my products and still maintain a smooth, easy close of the YKK zipper.

Aesthetic

A dopp kit isn’t something people see you use all the time, so they often go unappreciated. But in the case of the Travellr, whether at home, a friend’s house, or even just packing for a trip, people notice it. The dark black leather contrasted by the brass hardware and tan logo is simply attractive. Not only do I find the Travellr to be visually appealing, its simple, easy to use design protects my often-expensive grooming products from numerous dangers.

Conclusion

I know a lot of guys who are in serious need of a dopp kit upgrade. Do yourself a favor and get rid of that old, cheap, and tattered thing you store your grooming essentials in and start looking at your options. Range Leather is an excellent choice, and right now the Travellr and razor cases are discounted on Indiegogo. So head over and check out their campaign and snag a high quality, stylish, and lifetime-lasting dopp kit while you can.

May 11, 2016December 19, 2017

Oliberté Bokoroo Review – $140

The world we live in is constantly changing and there’s great people out there who are making efforts to be better at everything we do. I believe that a small portion of this success can be attributed to Oliberté and their Fair Trade efforts. The Oliberté shoes we have reviewed before were quite nice, so I am excited to dig in to the latest piece, the Bokoroo.

About

“Oliberté is a sustainable brand supporting workers’ rights in sub-Saharan Africa. We believe in empowerment, transparency, and doing right by all. This means making premium quality products with a lifetime warranty, and it means treating every employee, everywhere in the world, with respect. In 2009, we started off as a small footwear company partnering with factories and suppliers in Africa. Since then, we gained enough momentum to launch our very own factory in 2012. We make every single pair of Oliberté shoes at this factory in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. In September 2013, we also became the world’s first Fair Trade Certified™ footwear manufacturing factory.”

To read more about Oliberté’s story and the Fair Trade model, check out their About Us page on their website.

This company is dedicated to quality, respect, and humanity. Each and every pair of shoes or boots they produce reflects these intentions and principles.

Construction

Right from the start the Bokoroo’s construction has been the most notable aspect of the shoe. Their classic, retro design are complemented by excellent quality stitching and premium leathers. The Bokoroo is constructed with a full-grain leather upper, goat leather lining, and natural rubber sole with an awesome map of Addis Ababa, the Oliberté factory location in Ethiopia. I Bokoroo is built extremely well, and the only niggle I have with its construction is the small leather heelpiece that isn’t completely attached. This may be for aesthetic, but I would prefer it to be sewn together due to it unfolding after extended periods of use.

Function

I have not had one single issue with how the Bokoroo performs at all. The high-top has treated me well during miles of Las Vegas trade show perusing, thousands of miles on my motorcycle, and countless day trips around town. I am extremely impressed with Oliberté’s dedication to high-quality, accessible footwear. These shoes are built to last and I definitely have and will continue to put them to the test.

Aesthetic

This is my first pair of high-tops that I have actually enjoyed looking at as much as wearing. The deep black leather is very attractive, and I am sure the other two colors are as well. The Bokoroo is built on the Oliberté Anbesso last, so there is plenty of arch support and comfort. Over time, the Bokoroo has stretched out just a little bit, but it still fits my feet perfectly, which are a little on the wider side. The shoe has already started to develop a worn in look, which goes well with the retro, African infused design.

Conclusion

If you are a person who enjoys supporting companies that are truly committed to fair trade principles, Oliberté is an excellent choice. I have been impressed with the quality of Oliberté’s shoes for the price– purchasing a pair is not going to break the bank. At only $140, the Bokoroo is a wise purchase for men looking for some quality, unique casual footwear. Head over to their site and check out some of the new models, some of which are a great deal. Ladies, be ready for an Oliberté women’s shoe review coming soon!

May 5, 2016December 19, 2017

Mission Mercantile Stateroom Weekender Review – $695

If you were a VIP a century or two ago, you’d make sure you travelled in style. Whether by train or steamboat, a gentleman (or gentlewoman) most likely enjoyed the comfort of a stateroom, a separate room that offered privacy and quiet. Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender evokes this bygone era of travel, with its vintage style and hefty construction. The Stateroom Weekender definitely makes you feel like a VIP, even if traveling is a little easier these days.

ABOUT MISSION MERCANTILE

Mission Mercantile was launched in the fall 0f 2015, with the goal of creating beautiful leather goods with uncompromising quality. While the brand itself may be young, its creators are not inexperienced. Mission Mercantile is the project of the folks at Blue Artisan Group, a manufacturing collective based in Leon, Mexico. I recently got the chance to talk to Chuck Bowen, one of MM’s founders, who is clearly passionate about creating top-of-the-line leather goods. From our interview:

“We’re a mercantile on a mission. We want to serve men looking for meaning as a man while reestablishing family and heritage. Doing life together with his mission woman. We really want to bring back legacy values in a product, and take wisdom from past. Our goal is for us, and all of our customers to do life together.”

CONSTRUCTION

The Stateroom Weekender is made with thick, full grain leather that’s been vegetable tanned. The leather is stiff and heavy, with some natural markings in the grain that prove it’s the real deal. The entire bottom of the bag is solid leather reinforced with brass rivets. The combination of the classic overnight bag silhouette, brass hardware and the full grain leather really completes the vintage look. My bag is the Rust color, a bright, almost orange color. There’s a lighter color, Oak, and a darker one, called Oil.

The bag is a pretty simple construction with just one big pouch secured with a giant zipper – seriously, it’s one of the sturdiest zippers I’ve ever seen. The handles are also riveted onto each side of the bag, and the carry strap is thickly padded and attached with impressively sturdy lobster claws. A complaint I have with a lot of weekenders is that the removable carry strap feels like a cheap afterthought – but certainly not this one. This bag is heavy, so it’s definitely important that the carry strap and hardware are tough.

Inside it’s fully lined with an attractive grey and cream striped fabric that fits well with the vintage style of the bag. There’s a zippered pocket on one side of the bag, and a long pocket along the opposite side separated into three pouches. With the exception of the pockets tucked along the sides, the inside is wide open to pack as you please.

FUNCTION

This is not a lightweight bag. It weighs around five pounds empty, and the stiff leather definitely adds a bulky feeling when you’re carrying it. This is not a complaint, however. I really love that I don’t have to worry one bit about packing it too heavy or being gentle with it. I can toss it around, scuff it up, and it only looks better.

The construction of the bag combined with brass feet on the bottom keep the bag standing upright, making it easy to pack and access. At the beginning, the leather makes the opening a little small, but it softens after a few uses and allows the pouch to open wider.

It’s easy to pack a weekend’s worth of clothes, and they fit without bowing the sides or affecting the bag’s shape. It’s around 20″ L x 9″ D x 14″ H, so it can function as a carry-on if needed (No private staterooms in Coach, unfortunately).

CONCLUSION

I really couldn’t be happier with Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender. It’s impressively constructed and it’s clear that no shortcuts were taken. Nothing feels cheap or breakable; this bag is absolutely a Buy It For Life (and more) item. If you’re looking for a lightweight bag or a bag that won’t turn heads, this is not the bag for you. This is an impressive start for Mission Mercantile and we’re looking forward to seeing more products as they debut. Keep an eye out for more Mission Mercantile reviews in the next few weeks!

May 4, 2016December 19, 2017

Vicenzo Leather Arlette Leather Waist Bag Review – $79.95

Paunch pack, buffalo pouch, fanny pack… and the list goes on. No matter how you refer to the traditional waist pack, images usually bubble up concerning lost tourists or aspirin toting elderly folk. However, when reviewing the Vicenzo Leather Arlette Leather Waist Bag I couldn’t help but rediscover the versatile functionality these type of bags offer. If you’re curious to learn more, read on.

CONSTRUCTION

Distressed vegetable tanned leather is used for the construction of the Arlette. Gold plated hardware is used for the D rings that attach the bag to the strap, and for the zippers as well. The adjustable buckles are chrome plated oddly enough, not sure why the gold consistency wasn’t kept. The black threaded stitching appears very neat and tidy with no loose ends, unlike my ex. The first compartment has an unlined back with nylon dividing it from the secondary compartment. Measures in at 7.5” wide by 5” tall and an inch thick.

FUNCTION

The Arlette waist bag really excels at carrying your wallet/cards/keys/Casio SL-100 or whatever slim objects you like while still giving you total arm freedom. Now I’m a guy and while this may not really be aesthetically suited for me, I did consult my wife on certain points. She’s a purse carrier but often leaves her purses at home or in the car and just relies on my wallet for expenses. With the Arlette she had no inconvenience of tying one arm up holding a purse. This allowed her to better manage our daughter while shopping and since she had her own wallet it helped alleviate the spending on my end which was quite wonderful. It’s a waistpack, so it can also be turned around to the back for better mobility, but this sometimes presents a security issue in tight crowded areas like concerts or tourist spots. The front pocket has a large leather tab which is good for housing cash and cards and the inside pouch will fit just about any standard size smartphone.

AESTHETIC

The Arlette waist bag is clean in its design and fairly modern. It is slim, while this impacts versatility, it definitely helps in the looks department. A lot of the older models of waist packs are bloated monsters with several rows of pockets and tasseled zippers sallying back and forth as the user walks. Simply put, it’s a good looking bag for what it is.

Vicenzo does offer the Arlette in brown as well which is something to consider. I personally wish a manlier version was also available, perhaps with a rougher cut of leather and hulking brass hardware. I think the black version is more limited in terms of accessorizing but still seems to mesh well with everyday clothing.

Nailed it

CONCLUSION

If after reading this, you’re starting to warm to the idea of considering a waist bag as a legitimate means of carry, The Vicenzo Leather Arlette Waist Bag is a pretty safe bet. The $79.95 is about ballpark for suchlike bags and the quality and manufacture won’t disappoint.

May 2, 2016December 19, 2017

Minimum Squared Wallet Giveaway – $172 Value (2 Winners Chosen)

Congrats to Emily W. and Tarrin N. on winning a Minumum Squared Wallet!

We are pleased to feature a new giveaway from the great folks over at Minimum Squared – a small design studio out of Spain that focuses on minimalist wallets. Minimum Squared’s husband and wife team, Adrian and Sanela, are celebrating their win of the prestigious Red Dot Product Design Award, an impressive feat for a studio their size. You can read our official review of their black leather wallet here.

From the review:

One thing you’ll appreciate about m^2 is their extraordinary attention to detail. Their journey to create m^2 began when Adrian’s travels by plane and train had him considering the need for a front-pocket wallet that wouldn’t be uncomfortable while seated. Furthermore, he wanted the wallet to hold all of his credit and bank cards, as well as look good next to a business suit.
The construction of the wallet reflects Adrian’s engineering background and Sanela’s eye for art. While the leather for the wallet is a single-piece, CAD-designed, laser cut and thinned material, the thread holding it all together is a hand-sewn Fil au Chinois waxed linen thread that goes from one corner to the other. After testing several materials and leathers, they chose Harmatan & Oakridge vegetable-tanned goat leather for the grain, feel, and availability of colors. It also tends to offer some stiffness after being laser-thinned, an important characteristic for any wallet.
My favorite feature of the wallet is the ability to pull paper currency out of the wallet without having to remove the entire stack of bills. You can also store up to 10 cards in the wallet in such a way that you end up not stressing the leather or stitching as much as a traditional billfold.

The giveaway will run until midnight on May 15th, when we will pick TWO lucky winners! Winners will be able to select their choice of wallet, as it comes in thirteen different color combinations. Enter below – good luck!

Minimum Squared Wallet Giveaway

May 2, 2016December 19, 2017

Timberland Men’s Adventure Cupsole Oxford – $81 to $142

Leather dress shoes and functional hiking footwear have been a staple in the industry from the beginning. Both of these categories are full of excellent options and different styles, but the casual shoe category is quite possibly the biggest, broadest, and most common category of footwear. Timberland had been a powerhouse in the industry since its inception, and today I will be reviewing the Timberland Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford.

About

Timberland can trace its roots all the way back to 1920s Boston, where Nathan Schwartz began his career as an apprentice stitcher. Schwartz and his family grew the company and, in the 1950s introduced an innovative injection-molding technique that allowed them to waterproof their boots. In 1973, they introduced the “Timberland” brand, and the rest is history. Timberland is now a huge clothing and footwear brand that operates stores worldwide. Their company headquarters are in Stratham, New Hampshire.

Construction

The Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxfords are constructed using premium full-grain leather, authentic rawhide laces, rubber sole, and 100% recycled PET lining. (polyethylene therephthalate,-soda bottle plastic.) The leather used in this shoe is from a tannery that has been silver-rated, meaning this is an environmentally conscious and energy efficient leather facility. After miles of walking I can say the Adventure 2.0’s construction is very sturdy and durable, which will continue to stay that way with proper care.

Function

I have worn the Timberland Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford for several weeks now and have not had a single issue other than scratches in the leather by my own doing. It is very easily scratched and marked, so if you prefer a cleaner look these shoes aren’t for you. I welcome character to my footwear, so scratches and marks are more than fine with me. My favorite quality of these shoes is their comfort level. I walked 8 miles one day in dirt, sand, and concrete, and I never once experienced any discomfort in the Adventure 2.0. The anti-fatigue technology really does work, and I highly recommend this shoe for active men who need a solid addition to their casual shoe collection.

Aesthetic

I love the color of leather on the Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford. Its pleasant, even tone is wearable with myriad colors and styles in any wardrobe. After only several weeks of use, these shoes have already started to develop that worn-in patina many men are after, and I must say I am very pleased with the eye-catching classic style they offer.

Conclusion

Timberland has proven that quality leather footwear doesn’t have to be outrageously expensive. The Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford is only $82-$142 depending on size. For this reasonable price you will receive an incredibly comfortable, high-quality leather casual shoe, which I highly recommend. Head over to Timberland’s website and check out all the great styles of shoes they offer, you’re bound to find something you like!

April 27, 2016December 2, 2021

Lems Shoes Mariner Boat Shoe Review – $105

Baseball season beginning, allergies picking up, and finding myself going to bed while the sun is still out are all things I typically look forward to in spring. Another perk though, being the opportunity to ditch the boots and wear some light and comfortable shoes. That quest ultimately led me to the Lems Shoes Mariner Walnut Boat Shoe.

ABOUT

Lems Shoes is a family owned business that has been producing footwear since 2011. It all started when Grand Shoebah Andrew Rademacher was having trouble finding the ideal shoe, a natural design that allowed for unrestricted mobility. Thus began a long journey in development, from working at a shoe store to literally dicing up expensive sneakers to see how they were made. Lems is based out of Boulder Colorado where Andrew designs the shoes. I was surprised to learn that Lems is ran by four employees and works closely with a factory in China who produce their footwear.

CONSTRUCTION

The Mariners are made from 1.8mm full grain leather, the interior of the shoes have no lining to promote breathability. The soles are made from LemsRubber, a proprietary injection blown rubber. In case you’re not up to date on your rubber sciences, air-injected rubber is lighter, softer and more flexible than traditional rubber. However, this sometimes comes at a cost of less durability. You’ve got a 1.0mm Pigskin/ 4.0mm open-cell PU sole. The Mariner’s main difference from a traditional boat shoe is the lack of a heel. There is a zero drop offset which means when the shoes are on, your heel and the balls of your feet are equally level. At under 9 ounces, the Lems are easily half the weight of other shoes.

FUNCTION

The whole idea behind Lems Shoes is to let your feet operate on their own, without the impediments of modern footwear. You definitely “feel” the ground more in these as opposed to shoes with thick soles. While you might notice you can’t trounce over the occasional rock with the same aloofness as before, I personally feel the Mariners offer a more intimate walking experience. Since your toes are engaging more, you are more perceptive to how you move and navigate everyday obstacles. I would suggest taking these on a few shorter walks as you get used to the Mariners. The lacing does an adequate job of keeping your foot secure but I do wish the tongue was a bit higher or even better if it had elastic to keep it in place so you could slip them on without lacing. The zero break involved on the Lems Mariners is a nice break from the leather shoe norm and you’ll be out and about immediately.

AESTHETIC

The Lems Shoe’s Mariner has that classic boating shoe ancestry that remains a pretty timeless design. The toe area is as wide as I’d go, as any more would look almost clog like. Although it should be noted that this is a fundamental feature of the Lems– the larger area for your toes to move improve your traction and foot engagement.

The leather wears quite nicely and the sole contrast is on point. With a purely aesthetic objective, I would have liked to have had a straight edge from the heel collar to the tongue but understand this allows the fibula more freedom of movement. Overall Lems did a good job of retaining the boat shoe look while cleverly including minimalist features. Lems+American Flag Shorts+BBQ = Profit

CONCLUSION

We’ve seen a lot of nice footwear here at BestLeather. Most of the time you need to spend weeks breaking in shoes, so it was an absolute pleasure just throwing on a pair and going. The build quality is pretty solid for the $105 price point and while the styling has a few minor hiccups in my opinion, I feel they are definitely one of the better looking minimalistic shoes out there. If you want a light, simple shoe that will help strengthen your feet, Lems Shoes Mariner Boat Shoe are a solid option.

April 26, 2016December 19, 2017

Hidesign Cerys Leather Multi-Compartment Tote Review – $168

Based in Pondicherry, India, Hidesign was founded in 1978 as a two-man workshop. The company now has over 80 exclusive branded stores and sells in hundreds of independent stores, making it a huge player in India’s accessories market. The company expanded to the U.S. in late 2014 with a pared-down line of men’s and women’s accessories. Each Hidesign bag is made by hand in India with vegetable-tanned leather from their own tannery, and all their hardware is solid brass cast and polished at their own forge. Their three teams of designers are based in Milan, London and Pondicherry. We’ve previously reviewed their Hector 17″ Laptop Backpack and found it to be well-made and well-priced.

From the Hidesign America website: “Founded in 1978, Hidesign has grown into a global leather accessories brand recognized for its quality, ecological values and personalized service. By keeping its focus on a classic contemporary look, Hidesign caters to the sophisticated urban professional and executive.”

CONSTRUCTION & FUNCTION

The Cerys tote is constructed using veg-tanned leather from their factory. The leather full grain, and smooth with a light sheen. It’s a simple tapered construction with contrasting orange stitching for subtle visual interest. It’s lined with a bright blue cotton fabric that adds a fun pop of color. The lining is a little bit too loosely attached for my taste, and ends up bunching up and catching on things.

The tapered shape of the tote allows it to expand to hold quite a bit. It measures in at 15″L x 10 “H x 5.5″W. It can easily hold an iPad or even a small laptop. It can hold files, but don’t expect to fit binders or large notebooks. There’s a long zippered center pouch, as well as two long compartments on either side, one zippered and one open. There’s also a small zippered pouch on the exterior.

The straps are sturdy and have a good long drop length, allowing for comfortable over-the-shoulder carry. The bottom of the bag is flat, with the exception of the central seam, which allows the bag to stand freely even when open.

AESTHETIC

The Cerys tote has a simple, contemporary aesthetic. While it can easily function as a nice, everyday purse, it looks most at home in a business casual office environment. The black leather is dressy but not showy. It’s not a super trendy design, but it’s a classic silhouette that will hold up well. The Cerys also comes in blue, brown, and red, with various colors of cotton lining.

CONCLUSION

The Hidesign Cerys Tote is a simple yet elegant bag, with minimal branding and a contemporary aesthetic. Definitely consider your preferences when it comes to fabric linings– some people prefer it and others aren’t such big fans. But if fabric linings aren’t a deciding issue for you, this bag will serve you well in the office and elsewhere.

April 21, 2016December 19, 2017

Man on a Mission: An Interview with Chuck Bowen of Blue Artisan Group & Mission Mercantile

It’s been a big year for Chuck Bowen and the team at Blue Artisan Group. Just a year after opening their new factory in Leon, Mexico in late 2014, Chuck and the team launched their very own brand of leather goods known as Mission Mercantile. We spoke about how this new venture came to be, the inspiration behind it, and what’s next.

What initially drew you to the leather industry?

In 2007, I was hired by Saddleback, and in 2008 I joined as CEO and helped open their leather factory called TrueBlue Productions. From 2007-2013 we enjoyed fantastic success, and I really developed a love for the materials, products, and people in the industry.

I’ve always been very drawn to organic materials. It started as I was growing up around dad’s hardware store in rural southern Georgia. Working, smelling, using tools he had had around for forty years.

How did Blue Artisan Group and Mission Mercantile get their start?

In 2013 I left Saddleback and sold my interest in the factory. After I left, I took a sabbatical to refresh and take inventory. I talked to a lot of trusted friends, did a lot of thinking. Why wouldn’t I launch my own brand? It was just a yearning I couldn’t ignore. The icing on the cake was God sending four incredibly gifted partners.

We started the Blue Artisan Group factory first, at the end of 2014. Our ultimate heartbeat is that we’re artisans who love to create – so we decided to cofound Mission Mercantile together, and share this eternal passion for what we do.

Tell me a little bit about Blue Artisan Group.

The factory is a bootstrap startup in the same town as Saddleback’s factory – in Leon, in the state of Guanajuato. It’s in the heart of Mexico, in the leather region. People in the region have been making shoes for decades. It was a great place to start in 2008.

A little bit about our name: Blue– It’s the color of optimism, possibility, nobility. Artisan– we handcraft products with leather and canvas. We are true artisans, handcrafting. Group– we have bigger ideas around growing the business. It’s very tight-knit down at our factory. Side note, the acronym for Blue Artisan Group was a funny coincidence. We didn’t realize til after we named it that it spelled BAG!

What are your long term goals for BAG?

We want it to be the most sought-after North American creator of leather goods. We have five key goals. We take great care of our people, we handcraft remarkable products, we maintain high ethics, we delight our clients, and we innovate. Our goal is to be good stewards who make the most of what we have to work with.

What makes Blue Artisan Group unique as a leather products manufacturer?

Passion, experience, product development. Those things allow us to offer a “handshake lifetime product” through BAG and Mission Mercantile. Everyone on our team is aligned toward a singular goal. That goal is to make and sell some of the most remarkable items in the world. Our team operates as one.

What is the most beneficial aspect of having your own manufacturing capabilities for Mission Mercantile?

We have the ability to bring designs to life no matter the challenge, and we can work closely with the artisans. We can’t compromise for any reason if you’re making our kind of products, so we can offer uncompromising quality. We have the ability to make and keep our lifetime promise. It’s rare that you can control the entire lifecycle of the product. This translates into the greatest value for your customer.

What is the goal of Mission Mercantile?

We’re a mercantile on a mission. We want to serve men looking for meaning as a man while reestablishing family and heritage. Doing life together with his mission woman. We really want to bring back legacy values in a product, and take wisdom from past. Our goal is for us, and all of our customers to do life together.

Can you tell us a bit about your product line and the inspiration behind it?

We take inspiration from old items, make improvements, and modernize things. Long list of products coming! The Tradesman Bag looks back to an original product from the early 1900s– a bag that was used for carpenters and tradesmen to carry materials.

Our weekender bag, the Stateroom, takes inspiration from bags that were carried by travelers. This bag showed that you were able to travel, and had money.

The steamer backpack had a couple inspirations. In steamship days people would travel with steamer trunks, which were these big open boxes with individual bags inside that people would back separately. We also took some inspiration from old Pony Express Bags. They have the same clasp around the back, but we didn’t include the lock.

The Ice Block Bag has a leather handle on the bottom so you can turn it upside down and dump out contents.

I don’t want to give too much away, but we place certain things in our products that we call Cracker Jack prizes. Authentic, vintage goodies that we slip in as prizes. You’ve seen the pillows in the bags..we want things to be usable, utilitarian.

What does your design process look like?

Our first step is sourcing and merchandising. We do a lot of research into yesteryear pieces. Early 1900s era. Some of the products we find give us a lot of design cues. We have sourced many original pieces, on Etsy, abroad, and many places. Each product embodies the values of the people that carry them. We’ll be sharing a lot of the stories on our website.

Once we’ve found pieces for inspiration, we work out the ideas through sketches unti we’re moved by what’s coming to life in front of us. Meanwhile we’re looking for materials that fit with this idea. The materials must be as remarkable as the design itself. This takes some time. I love naturally occuring materials – cotton canvas, leather, wood. Materials that were alive, had life.

Next, we model. We take that sketch and start to work it out on the table and craft by hand the physical form of the sketches. We work alongside sample makers to construct our “first born.”

No matter how ugly our “first born” is, we start working out the bugs. Construction, form, aesthetics, material functionality. We work through a series of samples until it’s ready – then it’s called a “blue tag.” We have lots of products in this stage now. Once we blue tag the bag, we send it to the artisans to reproduce. Then it’s on to the customer.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

To narrow it down – become an avid student first. Never stop learning. There’s so much to learn about these materials, not to mention sourcing, manufacturing, design, branding, et cetera. The barrier to entry is fairly high. Find a great mentor, someone who will tell you the truth, talk you through, encourage you. Follow closely or work with a successful smaller brand to learn the ropes. Persistence will end up being the difference maker. It’s hard to be an overnight success and follow that up with more success.

One of the advantages we have is being vertically aligned with the factory. Our clients come first, but there are a lot of advantages of owning your own factory. Making decisions, sidestepping sourcing issues. It’s really critical if you can do it. Work with a manufacturer who takes a close approach and takes care of their clients.

What advice would you give consumers when looking for the right product?

How do you find the right one? There’s so much that consumers have to decide. Ask yourself: Will it give me joy? Will it give joy to the person I give it to as part of my legacy? Remember, it must improve with age. Make sure it won’t fail before you do. It should look its worst the day it comes out of the box.

What are the “next steps” for Mission Mercantile?

Staying authentic. Continuing to attract people who are as fanatical as we are about our products and the way we make them. Continuing on our journey to become mission men and women.

Can you share some insight on any new additions to your product line?

In the near future, we’ll be honoring dads for Father’s Day. We’ll be launching lots of giftable items to last more than a lifetime. Wallets, bags, hunting gear, adventure products, and some tech products.

Long-term, we’ll be continually launching new products. We will soon be more than doubling our current offering. If they don’t turn heads, then we’ve missed the mark.

April 20, 2016December 19, 2017

WATCH: Parker from Stock & Barrel Explains How to Choose the Best Leather for Your Project

Parker Lichfield, from Stock & Barrel out of Ogden, Utah, has put together a short informative video about choosing the right leather for your leathercraft project. He showcases some of his own products made with different types of leather and explains what thickness and finish is best for different projects. He’s also written a great post on the Stock & Barrel blog, which goes a little more in-depth into the topic. Enjoy!

Read BestLeather’s review of the Stock & Barrel Minimalist Satchel & Accessories.

April 20, 2016January 12, 2024

Leather 101: Caring for Leather Furniture

Hello BestLeather readers! I’m Chris Repp, a second-generation leather restoration professional and the creator of LeatherHelp.com. I’ve spent 25 years cleaning, repairing and restoring leather furniture, automotive leather interiors, leather jackets, bags, yacht cabin leather and private aircraft leather seating. More often lately, I’m training others to do the same.

While you are a sophisticated audience here at BestLeather, I am a blue-collar leather guy. I don’t have a degree in leather technology or a comprehensive knowledge of the many types of leather tannage. In fact, I tweeted out the other day that I learn something new every time I visit BestLeather. It’s true.

What I will give you today is insight born out of 1000’s of living-room discussions with my real customers over the decades. The result has been lots of practical advice on:

Choosing the right leather furniture for you,
Caring well for that leather furniture so it lasts a lifetime
Dealing with the inevitable leather problem.

So here’s 25 years of advice in short.

Choosing leather furniture

Buying quality leather matters most – For a leather restoration guy, I say no to a lot of leather jobs. Mostly because the people bought cheap, junk leather or faux leather and I can’t fix it for them. So my first piece of advice is buy good leather from a knowledgeable furniture retailer or none of the rest of this advice will matter. It’s only lipstick on a pig.

Leather furniture for active families – Lots of my customers ask, “I have small kids and we have pets, should we get leather or not?” I say, “Certainly”, but then I point them back to my first piece of advice. If you buy cheap leather, the family will tear it up in no time. If you buy quality, I can teach you how to care for it and it will last for decades.

Investing in leather barstools can add a touch of sophistication to your space. When caring for leather furniture, it’s crucial to follow proper maintenance routines to ensure the longevity and beauty of your barstools.

How much should you spend and why – For most consumers, I recommend mid-grade, mid-priced leather furniture from a good furniture or leather retailer. Spend more than you initially wanted to but not enough to break the bank. Heres why: Cheap leather from a warehouse is obviously going to be a mess in no time. But on the other end of the spectrum, the highest grade aniline (unprotected) leather sofa is beautiful and butter soft but very delicate and may not be appropriate for most buyers. I’d talk to a good salesman about investing in a mid-grade, top-grain finished leather. A mid-grade pull-up or distressed leather can also be a great choice if you like a leather that will distress and patina with age.

Caring for your leather furniture

Tips for cleaning your leather furniture – Some of these tips may sound elementary, but I’m just telling you the facts. These are tips I give because I get customers learning the hard way all the time!
- Don’t use Windex, Simple Green or anything not made to clean leather. Only use cleaners made for leather.
- Apply the cleaner to a soft, t-shirt material type cloth, not directly onto the leather. Clean an entire section at a time from seam-to-seam.
- A good maintenance routine is:
  - Weekly – Dust off the leather with a dry cloth or soft-brush attachment to a vacuum cleaner.
  - Monthly – Clean the leather with a good leather cleaner
  - Quarterly – Condition the leather

Keys to conditioning your leather furniture – Most customers have the best of intentions but aren’t going to follow the rigorous routine above. So I suggest that they at least use a cream conditioner on their leather twice a year. However, if I see a fireplace or lots of direct sunlight in the home, I will urge they do the 4x conditioning a year. Dry heat will dry out leather if not treated. The final common suggestion I offer for conditioning applies to pull-up leather furniture. Pull-up leather has been “stuffed” with wax. After a few years, that wax comes off the seats and arms of the furniture. In that case, I suggest they get a thicker wax-paste conditioner and wax the leather almost like you would wax your car. Then I suggest waving a warm hair dryer over the wax to set it into the leather.

Unexpected household items can damage your leather furniture – I get calls each week from customers who just noticed a big discolored spot on their leather sofa. Once we trace it back, we discover it often is caused by a normal household chemical that they never guessed could take the color out of the leather. Here are several culprits I get all the time: Instant hand sanitzer, Dog flea and tick medicine, skin creams, hair gel or ointment, Windex, wood furniture polish, nail polish remover, and hot surfaces such as mugs or hot plates. All these items can easily remove finish from even a good quality leather furniture.

Dealing with damaged leather furniture

What damages can be repaired – If you are planning to keep your new leather furniture for decades, it is inevitable that something may go wrong. No matter the damage, re-upholstery is always a possibility. The challenge with upholstery is to find a color and grain pattern that match. The cost of upholstery can be prohibitive, so it’s important to check if it can be repaired before spending too much money. My expertise is in leather repair, so I’m familiar with type of damages that can be repaired: Scratches, cat scratches, dog scratching, transit scuffs, stains of all types, discoloration, punctures, small tears usually less than 2”, sun fading, normal wear and tear, ink stains and surface cracking. I’ve seen them all, and a good leather pro in your area can repair them so they are almost like new.
An easy DIY cut repair video – My claim to fame on YouTube is a video I made late one night that teaches you how to fix a simple straight cut in your leather furniture. Watch the video here.

Save money by hiring a leather repair pro

As a leather repair pro I have to make a pitch for our trade. So, here are a few ways you can hire a good leather pro to solve leather problems and save you some money:

- - - Restoration is a great, green alternative to replacing 5-10 year old leather furniture. The frame, the cushions and even the leather itself are often in great shape. Only the leather surface needs cleaned and spruced up for a leather set to have decades more use in int. This usually costs 20% of replacement.
    - Restoration is a often a great alternative to reupholstery- For the more minor damages I described above, restoration is a cost effective alternative to reupholstery. I know many upholsters and they do great work, but will readily admit it can cost just as much as replacement. Restoration is less and can often be done in one day in your home.
    - Check around online or in your local classified ads and buy a gently used but quality leather sofa. A good pro can restore it for you for 20% of the cost of new.
    - Color change is an option for those who still like their leather furniture style but could update the color scheme in a room. This usually costs about half the price of a replacement set.

So that’s it, a small slice of my best stuff to help you choose and care for your leather furniture for a lifetime. I’ll admit leather furniture that lasts a lifetime is not the norm these days. I’ve seen some leather 10, 5, heck even 2 years old that is a mess already. I hope my experience and advice will help you be the exception! There’s nothing like having a still beautiful leather sofa that’s 20 years old and has served you through decades of life memories.

Chris Repp is a second-generation leather restoration professional and the creator of LeatherHelp.com. You can sign up for his newsletter here. Follow him on Twitter and YouTube.

April 19, 2016December 19, 2017

Dayton Boots Parade Boot Review – $422

I’m sure I’ve said this before, but I absolutely love a good pair of boots. There’s something about lacing up your dress boots to go out or kicking off a pair of work boots after a long day that just never gets old. I have been extremely excited about the Dayton Parade Boots for a long time, and after an entire year of wear, it is time to give my opinion.

About

Dayton Boots has been around since the winter of 1946. Charlie Wohlford, the man behind Dayton boots had been successfully repairing logger’s boots back to better than new. Soon the small company was the go to place for all logging, construction, fire, and police professionals, especially considering the lifetime warranty. Since 1946, Dayton Boots has introduced numerous new models, adapted the Goodyear Welt boot making method, and climbed the rungs of the boot industry to one of the best handmade boot companies.

Construction

The construction of a pair of Dayton boots is the company’s bread and butter. The company has been using the same 230 steps for constructing their boots since 1946. The Parade Boot is constructed using hand cut full grain leather for the upper, 6-12 iron (8-16oz) full grain for the insole and outsole and steel shanks to add extra durable support. These quality materials are then hand sewn together with double and triple stitching, and finally are Goodyear welted, all to the exact specifications you give them for sizing. The reason Goodyear welting is such a widely favored method for boots is because it is much more durable than other methods, and it is very easy to get them resoled. Dayton Boots is well known for having boots last several decades because of resoling, and I am definitely going to be using this service. I have been very impressed with the superb construction and have not found one flaw in over a years worth of wearing the Parade Boots.

Function

If you couldn’t tell from the name and design, the Parade Boots derived from old army marching (parade) boots. This is actually one of my favorite styles of boot across the entire industry, and the Parade boot resembles that heritage dutifully. Although I am not using my Dayton Parade boots for marching, I definitely have used them for my fair share of walking, motorcycling, and even dressing up. This boot is truly an attractive, multifunction, and high quality boot.

We often hear about new boot owners and their painful experience with breaking in a pair of boots, but I am happy to say that I did not experience any discomfort or pain in breaking in my boots, and I have before with others. Dayton constructed my boots to the exact specifications of my foot, and they have functioned perfectly since day 1.

Aesthetic

The Dayton Parade Boots are some of the more attractive boots I have seen. The black leather can be worn with anything, and it obvious that the construction is better than most boots. I frequently am complemented on them, and when people ask about these boots, I happily tell them that the Dayton Parade Boots are among the best you can buy, and even though the investment is significant (which is actually less than it was a year ago), it will be worth it in the long run.

The design and construction, fit, and the multifunction qualities of the boots are absolutely going to withstand anything you can throw at them, and if you do happen to need new soles, Dayton would be happy to resole them for only $84.

Verdict

As I said before, I was extremely eager to check out the Dayton Parade Boots. After a year of wearing them and putting on some serious mileage, I am still excited to lace them up as often as possible. Dayton has accomplished everything you could ask for in a high-quality boot. Priced at $422 total, the Parade Boot is actually a competitive, fair price in the industry for such top-tier quality. Go ahead and check out all the great boots Dayton has to offer– it is an investment you will not regret.

April 18, 2016December 19, 2017

Leather 101: The Different Types of Leather

Leatherworking has been around for as long as man has been eating meat. It’s an old craft with lots of tradition and terminology. This makes learning about the leather craft a whole lot of fun, but it can also make it confusing for consumers. When buying leather products, you want to make sure you know what you’re paying for. This often means wading through the marketing and learning some of the common terminology when it comes to different types of leather.

About Cowhide

A cow, if you’ve never happened to see one, is a pretty big animal, so it has thick skin, and a lot of it. A whole cowhide is quite thick, and generally too thick to be useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to be thinner and more useful for different purposes. (You can learn more about this from our last Leather 101 topic: Measuring the Thickness of Leather).

Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and softer than the hides of older animals.

The top part of the grain faces outward toward the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This means that the very top part of the grain is often buffed off to make the leather look more uniform.

Types of Leather

Top grain
Full grain
Split leather
Bonded leather

When the leather is corrected in any way, it is called top grain. Leather with the entire grain intact is called full grain. Full grain leather, even though it may have blemishes, is more expensive and more sought-after than top grain leather because of its durability and longevity. Both full grain and top grain leathers are referred to as grain leather.

Among grain leathers there are three general categories: aniline, semi-aniline, and protected. Analine leathers (like Horween’s Chromexcel) are processed using soluble dyes to maintain their natural markings and texture, and do not have a surface pigment or coating. This makes them the most natural-looking leathers, but also more susceptible to scratching, fading and staining. Semi-analine leathers (like most bridle leathers) are treated with pigments and thus conceal more blemishes and have a more uniform coating, as well as staying more protected. Protected leathers have a non-leather coating sprayed or attached to the leather as a protectant.

The bottom part of the leather, the part that is split off from the grain at the grain/corium junction, goes by many different names, and it can get really, really confusing. Many people refer to this bottom layer of leather as “genuine leather”, however, the term isn’t used consistently and is also used to mean real leather as opposed to manmade faux leathers. More terms you may see: split leather, corrected leather, embossed leather, coated leather, Suede, Napa leather (again, not a consistently used term), painted leather, and more. For our purposes, we’re going to refer to it as split leather.

Split leather can then be sliced down even thinner and used for other purposes. Often a polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic a grain leather; however these leathers are not nearly as strong or durable. This is sometimes referred to as a finished split.

Another use for split leather is suede, which has been textured to have a napped finish. Suede is often confused with nubuck, which is a grain leather that is textured to have a similar nap finish. The difference is that nubuck is much stronger and more durable than suede, though suede’s softness and pliability make it useful for certain applications.

Bonded leather is the lowest grade of leather, because it is not really leather – just shredded leather scraps and bits reconstituted with a filler and backed with an embossed polyurethane coating. It’s very cheap, but falls apart quickly. Bonded leather is found in low-end furniture and accessories, and sometimes book binding. You may also see this referred to as reconstituted or blended leather.

An old Bible with a bonded leather cover

How to Spot Fake Leather

There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. Artificial leather also doesn’t have a pullup effect, which is a slight color variation when grain leather is bent or folded. Painted or polyurethane layers are non porous and thus do not effectively absorb leather conditioners.

Again, a word of warning to consumers: many of these terms are not used consistently, and you can get confused easily. The most common mistake I’ve run into is the use of the term “genuine leather”. Genuine leather is most frequently used to describe low quality split leather, but to be honest, it’s a dumb word, because many people (including myself) have made the very easy mistake of assuming that the word “genuine” means the opposite of “fake.” So I’ve seen lots of leather shops use the term “genuine” in their product descriptions, in an attempt to convey the fact that they are not using faux leather. But that term just ends up scaring people off, even if they have a solid product made with decent leather.

Go out there with your newfound knowledge, but be aware that sneaky marketing terms, old-fashioned lingo, and honest mix-ups can make things difficult. So don’t be afraid to ask questions!

April 13, 2016December 19, 2017

North Star Leather Small Bifold Wallet with Window – $24.95

Quality is a difficult term to define. I believe that definitions of quality are unique to an individual’s character, but no matter who you ask, we all can agree on one thing: we know quality when we see it. In the case of North Star Leather Company, they have created quality products at an affordable price. This is the third product from North Star that we have reviewed, and it also does not disappoint. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window is a sensible, quality wallet at an unbeatable price, perfect for a leather beginner without breaking the bank.

About

Michael Batson, son of founder Steve Batson, gave us a short history of North Star Leather Co., an great example of a family business who started years ago, building themselves up to be a successful craft leather company.

“My dad started North Star Leather in 1969 doing street vending in Boston (fringe belts, floppy hats, and other “hippy” items). Little by little he grew the company and eventually moved to the rural south; the small town of Ruby, SC, population 354. That was more than 35 years ago and we’ve been making quality leather accessories here ever since. We have 15 employees (4 of whom are family) and are proud to have been able to keep making our products here in the USA without ever considering outsourcing production to cheaper countries.”

Construction

The Small Leather Bifold Wallet is constructed using top-grain leather. The small wallet stands at 4.25 inches long by 4.25 inches wide when it is folded. Inside, the wallet contains “a large cash compartment that opens on two sides for easy access, ID window with a pocket underneath, and three card pockets on the opposite side that open from the side.” A plastic photo holder is also included with the wallet to hold a few meaningful pictures. The small wallet is very sturdy, constructed well, and has actually aged extremely well. The leather is stacked on each other and sewn together, so you do lose the clean line look of the wallet, but at the price, most people would not be hung-up over that for too long.

Function

As with all wallets, the purpose is pretty straightforward. I am able to carry two IDs, two debit cards, several gift cards, two to three coffee shop stamp cards, and more cash than I probably ought to be carrying. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window has been put to a considerable test. BestLeather has had this wallet for over 1 year and it has performed better than any store bought wallet I have ever had, and at half the price. The Small Bifold functions flawlessly, faithfully carrying anything I throw in it.

Aesthetic

Because this wallet is almost a year old, we have had the opportunity to accurately observe just how much the patina changes in stages. The bifold was very stiff upon delivery, but at the two month mark obvious changes began to occur with the stiffness. After three more months, the texture of the wallet had changed entirely. The bifold had achieved a smooth, shiny patina, which made for an attractive, well-designed wallet. Over the next six months the wallet maintained that attractive patina and has aged wonderfully.

Conclusion

If you are in the market for a quality leather wallet but do not really want to drop a paycheck on one, check out the North Star Leather Company’s Small Bifold Wallet. I can truthfully say this wallet will last as long as you will, especially if you don’t mind some minor rough edges and are willing to take care of it. I have been very impressed with the North Star Leather Small Bifold, so head over to their website and check out all their reasonably priced, quality products.