Turek Leather Works Hennepin Wallet Review – $89

We are privileged to experience many wallets here at BestLeather. One thing I’ve learned from reviewing so many is that often a very simple design can be the most pleasant to use, and Turek Leather Work’s Hennepin wallet is a great example of this. Made with Horween Chormexcel, the Hennepin is great to the touch and is a great option for a front-pocket wallet.

Turek Leather Works is based in Illinois, making all their products right here in the USA. They name their products after legendary explorers and adventurers. The Hennepin is named after Louis Hennepin, known for his exploration of interior America in the 17th century. In a small way following its namesake, the Hennepin wallet was designed for those venturing towards the new trend of front pocket wallets.

Handmade with Horween’s famous Chromexcel leather, the Hennepin is very soft to the touch and feels great in your hands. At the same time, the leather is a good thickness and durability isn’t an issue. The thick thread is saddle stitched and expertly done with no irregularities.

Functionally there’s not any surprises. Four card slots that can handle about two cards each and a “hidden” pocket behind them. The slots are all easy to use, and this wallet works well with as much or as little as you need. I’d say the only small glitch is that the softness of the chromexcel and the stitches along the top edge occasionally cause a snag when I’m pulling cards in and out of the back pockets.

The two things that make the Hennepin stand out to me the most are the aesthetic and the “feel” of using it.

Visually, it’s a pleasure. The Chromexcel shows just enough of its distinct marbling texture on the outside to give a sort of mysterious, deep look. On the inside the coveted Horween stamp! The color of the thread stands out yet compliments the brown of the leather.

It’s can be hard to describe the “feel” of a product, but here goes. First, the Hennepin has a good weight distribution. It’s nice and easy to flip open and closed. Also, Chromexcel has a soft yet sturdy feel in your hands. The size and thickness is just right to grip and pull in and out of your pockets. The bottom line is that the Hennepin is the kind of wallet that puts a smile on your face when you get to use it.

The look and feel are great, handmade construction is impeccable, and Horween’s Chromexcel never fails to satisfy. The price point is on par for the caliber of this wallet, and I highly recommend the Turek Leather Works Hennepin wallet.

Kisetsu Aki Wallet in Crazy Horse Leather – $99

We review products quite often that are a part of our reader’s “everyday carry” items. A typical everyday carry includes wallet, keys, cell phone, and often a multi-tool Swiss Army type knife. The Kisetsu Aki wallet is mostly wallet, and a bit of the multi-tool. This wallet has more features than any I’ve personally used, and manages it all in an impressively minimal form.

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Let’s make a quick list. Inside this thin package we’ve got:

  • External single card pocket
  • Internal single card quick access pocket
  • Pull-out thicker pocket for multiple less-used cards
  • Pen
  • Cash/receipt strap
  • Micro-SD card slot
  • Secure coin pocket

The first of the Aki’s signature features is the external single card pocket, or what they call the “ninja slot.” This card will be hidden when not in use, but when you push on the small window, the card pops up just enough to grab. My hope is that this will become more smooth with lots of use, but in the weeks I’ve used it, it’s actually been fairly hard to push the card up. Pro tips: using both hands makes it easier, and cards with textured or raised lettering are much easier to push out than perfectly smooth cards. Despite the force necessary, having a card accessible without needing to open the rest of the wallet does have a certain convenience to it. 

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The inner multi-card pocket uses a pull tab for easy access, and the single card pocket on top of that is good for your second most used card. Cards are RFID protected. 

I’m a big fan of the pen. It’s tiny and barely noticeable in the crease of the wallet, but has saved me a handful of times. The Aki comes with a single replacement cartridge. 

Next up is the cash/receipt strap. The best part of this feature is that there’s no dormant space taken up if you don’t have any cash on you. Since I rarely have cash or receipts, this was great for me. When I actually do use it it’s a bit more cumbersome than a typical cash slot. It does make things more visible and, if handled correctly, easier to get out, but placing things in it is tricky and the pile of paper can get in the way of other features, such as the coin pouch.

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While we’re talking about the coin pouch…this is something I use very rarely, but sure is handy when I need it. The edge of the pocket has a small flap that you can slip under the pocket itself to keep coins secure. It takes a second to open and close, but has never let coins slip out and, like the cash strap, takes up no unnecessary space.

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Clearly the emphasis here is the swiss-army level feature set in a thin package, but of course we at BestLeather have to discuss the leather, other materials, and construction. The leather used for the Aki is called “crazy horse leather.” Crazy horse is, contrary to the name, a cow leather. It has some pull up properties, and a touch of the suede/nubuck feel at the surface. Kisetsu uses full grain crazy horse for the Aki. It is thin and has been sewn and folded over several non-leather components such as what appears to be a nylon lining for the coin pocket and other features. The non-leather materials become the weakest link, likely breaking down within an owner’s lifetime. However, construction is overall good, and the Aki should last for quite a few years.

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If you’re looking for a product that leverages some of the good qualities of leather and combines that with lots of fun and useful features in a minimal/front pocket package, I’d recommend the Kisetsu Aki. Kisetsu has clearly put lots of thought into this product. Not all the features function as nicely as I hoped, but I’d say the biggest advantage of the Aki is that it’s incredibly thin and makes it very easy to go minimal, but has the necessary accommodations for when you do need to hold more. 

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KC Co. Simple Wallet Review

Throughout my time collecting and using various wallets, I’ve always come back to front pocket wallets. In this review, I’ll focus on the Simple Wallet made by KC CO. KC CO is a small leather company hailing from Kansas City, Missouri. They specialize in handcrafted leather goods with modern touches. A mantra of the company is “quality through simplicity” in which they source the best materials and construct products with the essentials and less of what we don’t need.

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The Simple Wallet is crafted out of four pieces of vegetable tanned leather. I’m led to believe it is from Hermann Oak, as the company states that their leather is sourced from a world-class midwestern tannery in operation since the 1800s. The wallet comes saddle-stitched with white thread and burnished edges finished with beeswax. Each leather piece is cut by hand without the use of templates. The wallet is finished with a discreet logo impression just below the inside of the front pocket leather piece.  It is finely finished and ready to receive the patina the owner puts on it. The wallet is also available in black, as well as a three pocket version which removes the back strap. The size of the wallet allows for front pocket carry with little printing. Empty, the wallet weighs in at about 35 grams.

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As with most minimalist wallets, a huge priority is given to ease of access for a small number of items. The wallet accomplishes this task with style. The front pocket is useful for your most used cards such as credit cards and a driver’s license. I carry 2-3 cards here. The middle pocket is for the extras, such as insurance cards and a hunting license. The company lists the back strap as for cards or for twice folded cash. I’ve carried U.S. dollars and Euros without worrying about the retention, I just would caution one about overstretching the piece.

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The finishing on this piece is understated. Attention was paid to detail with the saddle-stitching, and the burnishing has held up well in my many months of use. A special The beauty of vegetable-tanned leather is that whatever elements or abrasions the product is exposed to could affect the patina formation. My wallet has been exposed to rain, sun, and constant touching of hands, which transfers oils onto the leather. In what began as a light, nearly pink color has darkened to a nice caramel brown color. The thread is also slightly subject to denim transfer, but not as much as thread made from other materials.

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The KC CO Simple wallet feels right at home among quality front pocket wallets. The price point makes it relative to other handmade leather goods. I also own one of their belts as well as a key fob, which is a top-notch product that can be seen in retail stores such as the Baldwin Co. Denim stores which specialize in selvage denim pieces.  After thorough use of this wallet, I can say with confidence that it is built to last.

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J Michael Ashland Men’s Classic Bifold Review – $150

Wallets are part of people’s everyday carry, also referred to as ‘EDC’. Wallets are smothered, folded, squished, dropped…the list goes on. The vast amount of options when on the hunt for a new quality wallet can seem daunting. After using the J Michael Men’s Classic Bifold for quite some time, it can certainly be added to the tier of leather goods considered to be ‘bespoke handmade,’ and rightly so. Read on to find out some of the characteristics that make this bifold wallet a serious option for your next quality leather goods purchase.

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For those curious about the color, my example was a deep, rich, dark brown.

ABOUT J MICHAEL ASHLAND

J Michael is a leathersmith with a loyal following, working out of a private shop in Oregon.  “As a leathersmith, I have been making knives and leather carry goods since I was a kid.” Conversing personally with Mr. J Michael over email, I can say that he is a pleasure to chat with. If you have any questions at all for him regarding leather crafting or just about his goods in general, be sure to shoot him an email. Be sure to check out his website to learn general facts about him and his craft.

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Customers are greeted with classy and precise packaging–just like the wallet itself.

CONSTRUCTION

The construction of this bifold is immaculate and masterfully done with premium Horween Chromexcel horse leather, which is slightly stronger and more scratch resistant than the cow variant. The outside holes were punched smaller, offering better water protection. The thickness of the individual parts of leather are considered, and hand skived to perfection. The hand-stitch work is about as perfect as it gets, with special attention to even the slightest detail. Even the thread itself was picked based upon its strength-oriented characteristics. No complaints here, as this is truly a work of art.

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Looking closely at the hand stitching and edge work; it is evident just how masterfully crafted this wallet is.

FUNCTIONALITY

One caveat I have with this wallet is the size. It certainly holds a ton of cards and cash with ease, but it is just a tad bulky in its overall design. This is one of those things that some customers may not experience, but it is worth mentioning. Due to the premium materials and construction, it could seem a little thicker to some people. Nevertheless, it does a great job of holding at least 12 cards and a good amount of cash (this was what my daily carry consisted of) and will impress most who are used to a bifold design. The dimensions are: 3 5/8” x 4 ½” x 3/8” thick when empty.

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J Michael has designed this bifold to retain its shape tremendously well. No awkward shaping of the wallet, even when full of lots of cards and cash.

AESTHETIC

The aesthetic of this bifold is classic and timeless. When you imagine a traditional bifold style wallet, this is what you get. J Michael has elevated the design a bit with the premium materials and construction. As previously mention, the full-grain horse-hide leather is sourced from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL. Check out Horween’s website for more information about their leathers.

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Classic, timeless, and quality. Three words that sum up the design of the J Michael Men’s Classic Bifold perfectly.

CONCLUSION

If you are searching for a serious upgrade for yourself or someone you know, this wallet will not disappoint. J Michael Ashland obviously puts a considerable amount of thought and precise craftsmanship into his goods, and its hard to put a price on something like that. While the price is certainly higher than your average bifold style wallet, the J Michael Men’s Bifold Wallet will make its new owner proud to hold onto something quite special for a long long time. Be sure to check out J Michael’s other beautiful leather goods over at his website, such as the black variant of this wallet.

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The beautiful box with J Michael’s simple yet rememberable logo.
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The wallet after a few weeks of use.
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The wallet holding 10 cards (the rest are in the hidden slots) and 12 bills of cash, with some room to spare.

Sandlot Goods Billfold Wallet Horween Rio Latigo Review – $85

There’s two things just about every guy has in common; a love for baseball and a wallet in their back pocket. I really enjoy the nostalgic vibe and quality products put out by Sandlot Goods, so when I got a chance to review the Sandlot Goods Billfold Wallet,  a piece that infuses America’s pastime with my everyday carry, I was more than willing.

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CONSTRUCTION

The Sandlot Goods Bilfold is made from famous Horween leather. This style in particular is from the Rio Latigo series. When asked about this particular style Sandlot explained:

Sandlot Goods Construction

Latigo is a full grain leather that is combination tanned and fat liquored. This means that the process uses both chrome and vegetable extracts, which is then conditioned with emulsified oils and waxes. What makes Latigo unique is the dying process. The leather is first drum-dyed and then aniline finished. The dyes in the aniline finishing process contains no pigment, allowing the natural of the character of the leather to be seen. The leather is then pasted and hand glazed. Pasting is the drying process where the leather is fixed to ceramic plates. This process smooths out the grain and provides very little stretch.

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The billfold is made with several pieces of leather, this provides much friendlier storage and retrieval options for your cards but it also adds a lot more stress points. Generally with leather, the less seams the stronger the product. The stitching is clean and tight and I didn’t spot any frayed or loose threads. The wallet is made in Kansas City. It also boasts a pigskin lining which is great because it provides a slightly tackier surface so your cash will be more inclined to stay put…unless of course Jack Links jerky is on sale at Wal-Mart, in which case take my money!

 

FUNCTION

When opened, the middle spine has a long oval cutout which helps the wallet close easier. This is a nice feature for those who want a wallet that will perform right out of the box. I’ve reviewed some wallets that I just had to absolutely beat into submission for weeks before they were comfortable in my pockets. Sandlot Goods did a great job here with that aspect.  Card storage is another issue though. I appreciate the front right slot with a cutout for thumbing your cards out quickly, but I find the slotted pocket above that too deep. When fully inserted, a card only has about an eighth of an inch clearance making retrieval a chore. The left side horizontal pocket works, but would have been handier as a ID window with no plastic. You can fit a fair amount of cards into this wallet, but it won’t be exactly fluid. Cash carry is always a forte of billfolds and this one does not disappoint. The deep channel allows for easy access of cash.

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AESTHETIC

This wallet’s finest attribute for me is the looks. It’s Horween leather, so you just know it’s going to get better with use. Expect a deep whiskey color to develop with age. The signature Sandlot baseball V pattern stitch really does a great job accenting this wallet. Its an obviously simple design on the outside, but it’s so well executed. There is no reinventing the wheel here.

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CONCLUSION

The Sandlot Goods Billfold is simply a quality wallet with just enough personality to make it worth a second look. Its price point puts it about smack dab in the middle for handmade leather goods and the quality is on point with other similar wallets I’ve reviewed. It is a solid wallet with solid looks. ‘Nuff said.

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Albatross Natural Bifold Review – $39.99

Sometimes it’s easy to dismiss a leather product as poor because of a low price, but that’s the notion Albatross is trying to dismiss with their Natural Bifold and other aggressively priced, full grain, vegetable tanned leather goods.

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ABOUT

The Albatross Brand was founded in 2013 over a glass of bourbon. A leather maker and industry insider decided to team up. They aimed to use their combined experience to offer economically priced leather goods without compromises. Costs are kept low by cutting out typical cost creating factors such as retail sales and advertising designs. They stand behind their products, too. Each design is used for six months to a year before release and comes with an impressive three-generation guarantee.

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CONSTRUCTION

The Bifold is made of 3-4oz full grain, vegetable tanned, USA sourced leather. Thread is thick, 3 cord waxed polyester. Assembly is done in Mexico, stitched on Campbell sewing machines. Leather is die cut for accuracy.

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Construction quality is overall very good, and materials are all top quality. One corner of a card pocket wasn’t set perfectly flush with the rest of the burnished edge. My finger would occasionally notice this, but overall it wasn’t an issue. Stitching is uniform and sturdy. Edges are mildly burnished, giving some smoothness but with the grain still showing.

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FUNCTION

While bifolds are great for holding everything you need, the primary drawback is that they can be quite thick. The Albatross Bifold is designed to be about as thin as a quality leather bifold can be. The 3oz interior leather is very thin (though still strong enough for a wallet), and the card pockets are specially designed to allow cards to lay flat. As a result, the closed wallet is noticeably thinner than many other bifolds I’ve used.

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The cash pocket needed a bit of wear-in to be at its best. I rarely use cash, and the new, unfinished leather interior makes sliding in cash a bit tricky. However, quality leather wears in over time and will adapt to your usage. The interior slowly starts to smooth out and becomes easier to use.

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The feel of the leather and overall usage of the wallet is highly satisfactory. Card pockets are easy to use, and the hidden pockets are great for some extra less-used cards. As a big fan of minimal card wallets, the relatively thin design of the Natural Bifold appealed to me.

AESTHETIC

I’m a sucker for the natural leather look. The full grain leather used for the Natural Bifold is beautiful. The grain is highly visible, and the patina development is very satisfying.

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I eventually decided to use some conditioner to speed up the process a bit…

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…then decided to have some fun with a cut-out stencil and tanning.

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The edges are gently burnished and the thread is nice and thick. The overall aesthetic is slightly rugged due to the natural coloring and mildly burnished edges. I think the thick stitching almost gives it an islander feel. However, the quality of construction and material wouldn’t leave you feeling out of place using this wallet in a formal environment, though.

CONCLUSION

Often if the price of a leather product is low, we would call it a good “entry-level” product, best for those just wanting to wet their feet in the leather world. I suppose you could say that about the Albatross Natural Bifold, but it’s rare to see an entry-level product carry a three-generation guarantee. Despite the low price, this wallet is skillfully constructed with some of the most durable materials you could hope for. You and your great grandkids will enjoy the patina develop over a lifetime. We recommend the Natural Bifold as a Buy It For Life wallet at a fantastic value.

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THIRTEEN50 LEATHER WHISKEY TRAVELER WALLET REVIEW – $69

Pocket-sized notebooks have always been around, but recently more and more people seem to have these handy little things to whip out and quickly write something down. While some people have their phone do the job, I personally prefer writing it down. The Thirteen50 Leather Whiskey Traveler Wallet not only conveniently holds my Field Notes; it also functions as a wallet. This is the type of functionality I see so many people needing, and this high-quality item is sure to impress.

thirteen50-leather-whiskey-traveler-wallet-review - 4ABOUT THIRTEEN50 LEATHER

Thirteen50 Leather was founded after a successful Kickstarter campaign that concluded back in July of 2015. After beginning with belts, their impressively priced selection of leather goods has expanded to various wallets and accessories. The brands name is derived from the 13 stripes and 50 stars on the American flag, where all of their products are crafted and materials originate from.

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The Whiskey Traveler is constructed out of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather. The leather is not your average cheapo, flimsy, mass-produced product you would find in a department store. This stuff is the real deal, and I was blown away at what you get for the price. The team at Thirteen50 Leather machine-stitch their wallets, and the end result is a quality item that encourages confidence that it will last a very long time, and look even better after use. The Traveler Wallet that I reviewed quickly started to darken and age making it an even more personal product.

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I personally really enjoy these types of wallets that function as a cover for my Field Notes, as well as being a true wallet, without being too bulky. I am a college student so I am always needing easy, quick access to what is in my wallet. This wallet definitely delivers, because of the ability to hold at least 4 cards initially, folded cash, and business cards. I found that it simplifies things quite a bit if you tend to have multiple wallets to carry all your stuff.

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I love the simple look of this wallet. The Thriteen50 logo is neatly and subtly placed in the bottom-left corner inside along with uniform, contrasting white stitching to hold it all together. As mentioned above, the leather is a beautiful Whiskey color that darkens a bit over time as you use it, making the aesthetic even more pleasant to show off to your friends. And then they will probably buy one too because of the great price of this piece.

thirteen50-leather-whiskey-traveler-wallet-review - 2CONCLUSION

After several weeks of use, I can confidently say that the Thirteen50 Leather Whiskey Traveler Wallet is a steal for what you can get at this price for a product of this quality. Thirteen50 offers this wallet in Whiskey, Black, Natural, and Natural Horween Chromexcel. Don’t forget to check out the other quality products they offer on their website and keep up with all the action over on their Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

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