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May 10, 2014December 19, 2017

Greg Stevens Design Custom Watch Strap Review – $175

If you are looking to buy a custom made leather watchband, you should look at Greg Stevens Design. The various leathers and styles are impressive, as is the attention to quality, detail, and customer service. Whether a Rolex, Panerai or just your favorite Timex, Greg Stevens Design watch straps can really make a statement and compliment a timepiece.

I was looking for a strap to give a Fossil watch that I received as a gift a boost of personality and confidence. With Greg’s recommendation, I chose a strap made with vintage looking leather and stitching complimenting the face and antique design of the watch.

construction

This strap is constructed with 3.75 mm thick Horween Leather’s Dublin Coffee Brown with light bronze polyester thread stitching. The edges of the leather are finished in a glossy and smooth black edge coating. The hardware is a brushed stainless steel buckle (PVD, brass, and polished steel are also options). Having a standard size wrist (7 ½ inches or so), I left it to Greg to size the strap how he saw fit. The longest end measures about 5 inches and the shorter side measures about 4 inches (including the buckle) for a total length of about 11 inches with the 44mm diameter watch. The strap comes with one free-floating band holder that is constructed from a strip of the same leather and thickness.

function

My first impression of the strap upon taking it out of the box was that it was a thick and stiff band. One might think the thickness might be too much and would be stiff and uncomfortable but, like most leathers, it started to bend, stretch and soften after the first few wears. One will definitely appreciate the thickness and heft of the strap.

There are 5 buckle holes and after the strap stretched a bit after the first few wears, I am now at the third hole. This is a nice fit for me without my wrist feeling constricted but also not having my watch dangle down around my forearm.

aesthetic

When looking for a strap for my watch, Greg recommended a vintage looking leather (Horween Dublin Coffee Brown) and stitching (light bronze), a perfect compliment to the face and antique design of the watch.

This particular leather has a slight ‘pull up’ (when bent, changes to a lighter color) and gives way to a cracking effect that gives the leather an old-world vintage look and feel. As the buckle hole end stretched, the leather around the holes lightened and wore in faster than the rest of the strap. The wear from this type of leather attributes to its aged and antique appeal.

The large band fastener on the strap at first seemed too bulky, stiff and a tad flimsy feeling as it just floated on the unbuckled strap. Like the rest of the strap, it started to bend and wear a bit and soften up. When buckled, the fastener stays firmly in place and is very comfortable.

BestLeather conclusion

For $175, this is well worth the price to pay for a custom-built leather strap. Greg has about 3 dozen different, high-quality leathers from Horween leather as well as some vintage French, Swedish, and Swiss leathers to choose from and many different thread colors as well. You can choose a buckle finish, thickness and length of the band, stitch pattern and even add some custom rivets (additional charges). Of course, if you’re not completely sure about sizing, leave it to Greg. After giving him the size and make of the watch, he sized the strap how he saw best complemented the watch. It’s like having your own personal watch tailor!

This is a very comfortable watch strap. Although a bit stiff at times, I suspect it will continue to wear and soften quite nicely. Judging from the quality of the leather and craftsmanship, this strap is built to last. There was only slight worry about the stress marks on the hole end so I asked Greg about care for the product. Greg recommends using a little leather conditioner over time if the leather appears too dry.

Lastly, the customer service Greg gave me through the process was very sincere and friendly. Having been my first time having a custom leather strap built for me, I needed a little guidance through the process. Greg answered all questions and requests I had and left me feeling fully satisfied on how I wanted my strap to look. It exceeded my expectations when I first opened the box.

The products are also backed by a 100% guarantee. If it falls apart, Greg will replace it. If it doesn’t meet your expectations, he will fully refund you. Greg even states, “I feel that you should be 100% happy with your purchase. If you’re not, then something happened along the way and I’ll bend over backwards to make it right.”

Even though the picture gallery and customer testimonies on Greg’s site are featuring higher-end luxury watches, I am convinced that even my Fossil fits the bill for Greg’s beautiful watch straps.

May 9, 2014December 19, 2017

Orox Utilis Classic iPhone Wallet Review – $70

The Orox Utilis iPhone wallet/case is a beautiful, well-constucted option to carry your cash, your cards, and your phone (assuming you are a part of the iPhone family). Continue reading “Orox Utilis Classic iPhone Wallet Review – $70”

April 30, 2014December 19, 2017

Moore & Giles Donald Dopp Kit – $155

A dopp kit is a small bag made for carrying a razor, toothbrush, toothpaste, clippers, scissors, deodorant, and other toiletry and grooming essentials. It can be made from leather, canvas, vinyl, cloth, or other similar material. The name “dopp” was unfamiliar to me prior to my interest in fine leatherworking. The name derived from Charles Doppelt, who immigrated to the United States from Germany and set up a leatherworking shop in Chicago in the early twentieth century. He introduced a small bag meant to carry toiletries, and had printed the word “dopp” on each of these bags.

Dopp kits became popular among Chicagoans, but when the United States Army adopted these bags for World War Two and had one made for each enlisted soldier, they became nationally known and recognized. After the Second World War, it became popular to purchase a dopp kit for a young man as a symbol of reaching adulthood, and those bags were often passed down from father to son, a testament to excellent craftsmanship and tradition.

Moore & Giles of Forest, Virginia, makes a dopp kit that can be handed down from generation to generation. The Moore & Giles Company has been producing fine leather since 1933. Their principal product to this day is finely tanned leather made for a number of industries, including the high-end hospitality industry and the commercial and residential interior design markets, among others. Producing other fine leather goods such as dopp kits, rucksacks, and messenger bags became a natural extension of fine leather tanning. BestLeather has had the opportunity of reviewing one of these fine leather goods, their Donald Dopp Kit.

LEATHER

Moore & Giles Donald Dopp Kit is made with their Brompton line of leather. This is leather that has been vegetable tanned and drum dyed a deep dark brown, then finished with hot waxes that highlight the leather’s natural grain. The result is a beautiful, antique look with a fair amount of sheen. This antique look is a very nice feature and lends a sophisticated air to the bag.

The leather is 1.0 to 1.2 MM thick, which equates to approximately 2 1/2 to 3 ounces thick. It is not boot thick leather, but I do not think that is necessary for a dopp kit which is meant to be carried within another bag. The leather feels fairly thin, but it is robust at the same time. It is fairly rigid, especially for a thinner leather, which is common with vegetable tanned leather. As a result, the bag keeps its shape well, without any internal structural support.

FUNCTION

One of the first things that caught my attention when I opened the Donald Dopp Kit was the space the bag had. Most Dopp Kits are tall and narrow. The result is a bag that can be more difficult to dig through and find what you need on a trip, especially if the dopp kit is full. The Donald does not have this problem because the bag is wide open; there is ample space for all of your toiletries. On a recent trip I was even able to get my long sonicare toothbrush in without collapsing it. The bag measures nine inches tall by eight inches wide by three and a half inches tall.

The inside of the bag is made with an Italian, waterproof jacquard so that you can clean out any spills with ease. Moore & Giles also went the extra mile and treated their size 92 polyester thread so that it too was water repellent. The leather is similarly finished in a way that water is naturally repelled. The result is a product that will not mildew or easily stain, and that is a snap to clean out.

DESIGN

The Donald Dopp Kit is made from just two pieces of leather. The first piece travels from the bottom of the bag up the back to the top flap. The second piece wraps from the side around the back to the other side. Using as few pieces of leather as possible to construct a bag is a good sign, and means that the bag is designed to last. In general, the fewer the seams the better, as the seam of a bag is the weakest link.

The Donald also has a leather bead sewn in where the two pieces of leather meet, and which runs along the perimeter of the bag. This gives the bag a higher level of finish and adds some depth to the dopp kit as well. Similarly, the Donald has an all-leather carrying strap on the back of the bag which is both useful of course, but also aesthetically pleasing.

On the inside of the Donald is one large space, but also contains two zippers. The first is on the inside of the top flap of the bag and has a fairly large pocket lined with the same Italian jacquard. The second is on the inside of the back panel, with a smaller pocket with the same waterproof lining. I liked this design because it gives you one large space for the majority of your items, but a couple of zippered pockets for those items you do not want to mix.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Donald Dopp Kit from Moore & Giles is a bag that is excellently constructed and smartly designed. It is crafted from premium leather at an attractive price point. It is made to last generations and is the perfect bag to carry on the tradition of handing down your dopp kit to the next generation.

April 25, 2014December 19, 2017

Coronado Leather Americana Large Duffel Bag – $799

The Coronado Leather Company was established in San Diego, California in 1981. From a small assortment of craftsman committed to producing high quality leather bags, the company has grown to offer a wide assortment of quality goods. From leather bags to leather wallets, the focus at Coronado is quality. Coronado has created a niche for itself in the concealed carry leather goods industry (as in: a really cool, high quality leather item to conceal your firearm) for the responsible citizen and for law enforcement officers. You can find many of these bags on Amazon and on their website at www.coronadoleather.com.

We have previously reviewed their Swiss Military Saddlebag, a beautiful replica of the 1920’s to 1940’s saddlebag of the same name. In addition to sending us that bag to review, they included their Americana Large Duffel Bag for us to take a look at as well. As I initially lifted the duffel bag from the box, I instantly knew that this was a premium bag.

LEATHER

Coronado’s Large Duffel Bag is made from 5.5 to 6oz Horween Leather, a leather that Horween calls “Derby”. This leather is thicker than most all leather bags and gives the bag a very nice heft and feel. This is leather that is full grain, meaning that the top layer is not corrected or sanded down. Full grain leather is the prime cut, if you will, of a hide. It is the outermost layer, and therefore has the tightest grain structure. The particular leather for this duffel bag has quite a bit of marbling, which gives the bag a beautiful rustic, aged appearance. The leather is also dyed through (struck through for you leather aficionados), which means that the color in the middle of the leather is the same as on the outside. We at BestLeather love when we see leather like this. Accomplishing this requires significantly more time tumbling in drums, and results in a premium hide.

Horween’s Derby leather is also straight vegetable tanned, an old process that results in a leather that patinas beautifully over time and has more body. After the vegetable tanning, it goes through a process of being tumbled, fat liquored, and finished. It is the same process that Horween uses to finish their world famous Shell Cordovan leather. The result is leather that has both structure and softness at the same time, and looks rich and beautifully aged.

CONSTRUCTION

The Americana Large Duffel bag is made from only three large pieces of Derby leather–one piece for each side and then a piece for the bottom. The use of only a few pieces of leather for such a large bag (it measures 18” x 14” x 10”) means that the bag has fewer seams, which are the weakest links of a bag. Typically, the fewer seams a bag has, the better.

Another nice feature of the bag is that each end of the bag has a strap sewn and riveted to the top that you can fasten to a D ring on the bottom of the bag. This allows for a certain amount of expandability or contraction of the bag. If you are going for a three day trip and need to stuff a lot into the bag, then you unsnap the strap, which gives you more room, or vice versa. It is a nice feature that allows the bag to be a little smaller, when you need it to be.

The duffel bag also comes with an adjustable strap for carrying over the shoulder. The strap is made with two strips of Derby leather sewn together and is approximately three-quarters of an inch wide, by 11 to 12 oz thick. The strap feels hefty and does not seem to have any stretch to it, a testament to good quality, vegetable tanned leather.

Similarly, the handheld straps are two layers thick of Derby leather, with an additional strap sandwiched in the middle, for extra grip and aesthetic appeal. These straps are riveted twice to the sides of the bag, and then overlaid with another piece of layer, which is then double stitched to the bag. (Talk about over-engeering!) I think I could hook up the bag to the back of my truck and use it as a hitch to haul around my toys. I love this type of durability, when a bag is made to last generations and truly be an heirloom product. At $799, the bag is not cheap, but is well worth it.

HARDWARE

Hardware is where many companies skimp and use what just looks good or will get by for a few years, but not Coronado Leather. For the Americana Large Duffel, they use an over-sized #10 YKK 2-pull brass zipper made in the good ole’ US of A. The zipper is another distinguishing feature of the bag. When you open and close it, it feels like you are opening or closing the door to a massive tent. It is not something you zip quickly open or closed. It takes a bit of effort, but you know that there is no way it is going to come apart.

Coronado also uses solid brass D rings, and solid brass ball rivets throughout the bag. The ball rivets give the bag another dimension and complement the leather nicely. There are also two sets of the ball rivets on the bottom of the bag, which help protect the bottom of the bag when placing it on the ground.

LINING AND STITCHING

The American Duffel is lined with thick, durable, khaki cotton canvas. This gives the bag a finished look on the inside, and provided a bit of sophistication to a rugged looking, extremely durable bag. The inside of the bag also has a small pocket with another YKK zipper that is similarly lined with canvas. The entire bag is sewn with polyester thread and is made in Coronado’s San Diego leather shop.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Americana Large Duffel Bag from Coronado Leather is extremely well made. It has solid brass rivets throughout, strengthening the leather in potential areas of weakness. It is made with some of the best leather you can buy, from the Horween Leather Company, which has been making leather in Chicago for over 100 years. It is built like a Mack Truck, but has the sophistication of a Ferrari. If you want or need a duffel bag that your kids will pass along to their kids, look no further than the Americana Large Duffel.

April 23, 2014December 19, 2017

Ewing Dry Goods Minimalist Wallet – $60

Bear Fat and Beeswax. This got my attention. The Ewing Dry Goods store prides themselves on products Made in USA and burnishing the edges with a mixture of bear fat and beeswax. The mixture gives the leather that extra edge standing up to moisture and abusive elements. This is what you would expect from a leather crafter in Alaska.

If this has your attention too, you probably are not interested in ordinary, plain products you can purchase from your local big-box store. You enjoy merchandise that represents adventure, character and quality. This is a good time for you to learn about the Minimalist Wallet by Ewing Dry Goods. They call it the “perfect little wallet that holds only the essentials: your cards and some cash.”

CONSTRUCTION

The Minimalist Wallet is made from one piece of 7oz Horween Chromexcel. This is some of the finest leather made in America. It is folded in half and hand-sewn with artificial sinew and the edges are burnished and rubbed with bear fat and beeswax. This is heavy construction and build to last.

FUNCTION

Ewing claims the Minimalist Wallet is “the perfect little wallet” but if it were, it would be expandable to daily use. It is a great wallet for on-the-go; dashing out with just a driver license, a card or two and some cash. When Best Leather received the wallet, I stuffed five cards in it and some cash and was quite impressed.

The wallet is fun. It makes you rethink what you need to carry on a daily basis and it seems to be reshaping me into a true, if not reluctant, minimalist. But, then, in my pursuit to make the Minimalist into a daily wallet, rather than sacrifice entirely, I set out to see if it could carry more and found the wallet holds eight credit cards, gift cards and license and still has room for cash. This was amazing because even one or two cards by themselves remained snug in the wallet, yet when stuffed with eight, the cards could still move in and out with ease.

At this point, this reviewer was convinced. I have had several thin wallets but none that could hold eight cards. The Ewing Dry Goods Minimalist Wallet is, indeed, the perfect little wallet. But, then again, business cards. . . how do we get the wallet to hold eight cards and a dozen business cards, as well? Just wondering.

AESTHETIC

Seven ounces of Horween Chromexcel leather has a good look and feel and it is most assuredly durable, even if taking a lot of abuse. As mentioned before, the edges of the leather are burnished with bear fat and beeswax. This gives it a smooth, almost melted appearance and highlights the matte black color of the wallet we reviewed.

The Ewing Dry Goods Minimalist Wallet comes in Black, Burgundy, Brown and Dark Olive. This reviewer likes the black and it goes well with the black Survivor Clip.

All Ewing Dry Goods products are stamped with their logo – if size permits. The logo is handsome, featuring the horizontal portions of a large capital “E” set into the right side of a Spruce tree.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The product is good. This reviewer enjoys the look and feel – and the fact it holds enough cards to be a daily wallet. It is built of the finest leather and will last many years. It is a fine little wallet and is well worth the investment.

April 22, 2014December 19, 2017

The Leather Shop MacBook Pro Bag – $220

The Leather Shop is a small company of leather designers and craftsmen in the Georgetown District of Seattle, Washington. This is one of the oldest parts of town and, second only to the Fremont District, it is the hangout of the most creative. The craftsmen at this shop pride themselves on creativity and making long lasting products. All the leather, hardware and labor that go into any product manufactured by The Leather Shop are Made in USA. If you are looking for a slim way to transport your MacBook Pro, you will be pleased with what The Leather Shop has to offer.

CONSTRUCTION

The MacBook Pro Bag is unique among all brands. The Leather Shop makes the case out of one piece of Horween Chamois leather. The sides are woven together – no stitching; just woven leather. They call this their innovative, stitch-less design. The woven sides add cushion to the contents as well as give the bag its unique look.

The shoulder strap is made of dark brown chromexcel leather and stamped with their website URL (theLeatherShop.com). The stress points are reinforced with brass rivets. It is adjustable for purse length, man bag length and briefcase length. The brass hardware attachments are solid cast brass. If you want to use the bag as a cover and carry it in a briefcase or backpack, the strap is completely detachable.

The cover is held shut with two solid-cast brass snap locks. The cover is held in place by brass grommets fitted between the internal and external sides of the snap locks.

The MacBook Pro Bag comes in three sizes:
13″ MacBook Pro is 13.5 x 9.5 inches and weighs approximately one pound.
13″ MacBook Pro Retina display is 13 x 9 inches and weighs less than one pound.
15″ MacBook Pro Retina display is 15 x 10.25 inches and weighs just over one pound.

FUNCTION

The computer slides in and out with ease, yet it is snuggly fit in the bag. I am able to slide in a manila folder that holds a dozen papers and a note pad, also. With the added load, the snap locks are still able to function well and I don’t need to apply any extra effort to make it so. The whole package, bag, and load are slim and trim and I am able to carry the basic essentials.

The carrying strap is adjustable to three lengths (as described previously). I have the strap set to briefcase length. This length seems to carry the computer most comfortably – and, I am not into purses – male or female. If you find you need to slide the carrying handle over your head so you can have your hands free, you will find the briefcase length is the best setting.

AESTHETIC

The Chamois leather has a comfortable, casual appearance and wears to a nice patina in time. Mine is already developing a nice tone and is very pleasant to look at. The braiding is the highlight of the MacBook Pro Bag and The Leather Shop says it is reminiscent of Native American style art.

The MacBook Pro Bag reviewed for this story is Tobacco, but it is also available in Maroon, Dark Olive and Tan. I like the look of the contrasting brass against the Tobacco, but they all are good colors.

Here the MacBook Pro Bag is shown with the Rivet Wallet by The Leather Shop and my dog, Miles. Miles enjoys quality leather products and approves of this review.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The product is good, and this reviewer is very pleased with the MacBook Pro Bag by The Leather Shop. I will be using this bag for many years – or at least as long as I have a MacBook that fits this bag. It holds the computer snuggly, yet it is easy to insert or remove – and it holds additional papers and notepads, too. It is rugged and durable, yet it wears well and is stylish. I use it in a professional environment and it blends right in with business. The braids look good and receive a lot of comments. If you are looking for an affordable way to transport your MacBook Pro, the MacBook Pro Bag by The Leather Shop will serve you well.

April 22, 2014December 19, 2017

Vagabond Traveler L38 Messenger Laptop Bag – $189

Vagabond Traveler is a leather goods seller based in Oviedo, Florida. They sell briefcases, bags, wallets, backpacks, and even fanny packs, which are all made of leather (of course). They have a wide assortment of leather goods, and their website is easy to navigate and search for different bags and products. Vagabond Traveler is a seller of leather goods, but does not produce or manufacture the bags themselves. Their bags and goods are made in China, which helps to fulfill Vagabond’s goal of selling products that are affordable, but of a good quality.

BestLeather’s experience with Vagabond has been a little bit different from our normal relationships with leather goods providers. Vagabond sent us a bag to review a few months ago, but we decided to return it because of some manufacturing defects, and also because the bag was very similar to a well-known competitor. Long, our contact at Vagabond, was very responsive and sent us another bag promptly. This bag, called the L38 Messenger Laptop Bag on their website, is a messenger bag made for a 15” laptop and the bag that we will look at in this review.

LEATHER

The L38 is made from soft, full grain, four to five ounce cowhide that has been vegetable tanned. The color is struck through, which is admirable considering that many well known and reputable tanneries do not dye their leather all of the way through. Leather that has been struck through has been tanned and drum dyed until the color of the leather penetrates to the middle of the hide. If you were to ever gouge the leather, the color in the middle will be the same as on the outside.

Vegetable tanning is also a process that requires significantly more time in the tanning process and normally results in a leather that is a little stiffer than chrome or oil tanned leather. The leather used for the L38 is unusually soft and nice to the touch. It has sort of a fibrous feel to it, similar to suede. The color of the leather is “natural brown” according to Vagabond, but really is a light tan.

DESIGN

The L38 is meant to be a laptop bag. The bag is 15” wide, by 13” tall, by 3” wide. Because the sidewall is riveted to both the front and back panels, you lose about ½” of width on each end, so the bag’s useable width is really closer to 2”. This means you have room for a 15” or 13” laptop, and perhaps a book or two, or large notebook cover and that is about it, at least for the inside. The inside also has a small pouch for a phone, as well as a couple of pen sleeves.

The strap for the L38 is approximately 1 ¼” wide and is a single strap of leather, sewn to an equally wide strap of nylon. Though many people (myself included) prefer all leather straps, this is a smart idea because, unlike leather, nylon has virtually no stretch. This makes the strap significantly more durable than if it was just the single strap of leather.

The L38 is also equipped with two zippered outside pockets. They are 8” deep by 4.5” wide and will fit a myriad of items or accessories such as car keys, cell phone, mini tablet, etc. The back of the bag also has a zippered compartment that you could stuff a folded newspaper or magazine. With these additional compartments, the L38 has adequate storage for a day at the office or a day of meetings. If you are not of the minimalist camp though, and have to haul more gear to and from work, you might be better off with a wider bag.

CONSTRUCTION

The L38 is made to be durable. It is made with full grain, vegetable tanned leather. It is stitched with strong and durable nylon thread. A number of leather bag manufacturers use polyester because it is UV resistant and two to three times stronger than nylon thread. For those of us who are not planning on using our bag to compete in a tug-a-war, nylon is probably an adequate thread to hold the bag together, and one in which many quality manufacturers still use.

Where I feel Vagabond skimped on making this bag was the use of multiple pieces of leather. Many of the highest quality bag manufacturers try to use as few pieces of leather as possible in constructing a bag. The seams are the weakest link, and therefore, the fewer seams the better.

For example, in a very high quality bag, the leather for the back panel continues all of the way to the front flap of the bag, in one long piece. On the L38, the back panel is actually two pieces of leather sewn together, and then the top flap is sewn to that. The side walls are also separate pieces from the bottom, as opposed to one long strip from side to bottom to side. Again, this does not mean that the bag is going to fall apart, especially since it is sewn with nylon thread, but it does still reduce the durability of the bag.

Overall, the L38 is constructed well. It has rivets were they are needed the most–to support the stitching and areas of potential weakness. The sewing is straight and even, buckles and handle are centered, and the bag has an aesthetic pleasantness to it. I did notice several places where marks were made with fabric ink by the craftsman, and the ink was still there. This lack of attention to detail is a shame considering that the L38 is a good bag overall. Perhaps it was just an oversight on the bag we received.

HARDWARE

The L38 is made with all metal, chrome plated hardware, including the zippers. One interesting feature with the L38 is how the main compartment is secured. The bag has two straps that are secured to a buckle, which is fastened to a push button snap that you can slide in to its closure and snap shut. As a result, you can keep the straps secured to the buckle, but still pop open the buttons and slide out the strap. Should you undo the strap from the buckle, and lose the snap button though, you would not be able to secure the bag closed. My preference would be to lose the snap button and just stick with a traditional strap and buckle closure. When I showed this design to my wife, she really liked it and even preferred it that way. Like most things, it is a matter of preference. Just do not lose the snap buttons.

PRICE

One of the biggest advantages to many of the items that Vagabond Traveler sells is their price. The bags and goods they sell are less expensive than their competitors. This is due in large part to where the goods are made. The tradeoff is that you are buying an item that is not quite the best. It is good for sure, but not the quality that one lusts for. Knowing what I now know about high quality leather goods, I would save my duckets until I had enough money for the best and go with that. If you just don’t have the money though, the L38 or other bags from Vagabond Traveler will provide you with a good product that will last you many years.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The L38 Messenger Laptop Bag from Vagabond Traveler is a well-made bag, especially for the price. There are a number of details that could make the bag much better (i.e. using fewer pieces of leather to construct the bag, using polyester instead of nylon thread, etc.), but for the price it is a good bag that will provide years of service.

April 17, 2014December 19, 2017

Piero Tucci Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag – $462

Florence, Italy is a romantic city where you can behold Michelangelo’s David, visit the famous Il Duomo, or stroll through the Piazza del Signoria with its many sculptures and works of art. Florence also is home to Piero Tucci, an Italian workshop that specializes in high quality leather bags, handbags, jackets, and other small leather goods.

Piero Tucci was established in 1972 and currently operates on the outskirts of Florence, which is in the heart of Tuscany. Mr. Piero Tucci himself formed the company and gathered a small group of highly trained craftsman to provide high quality leather goods to local retailers and shops. The Piero Tucci name and reputation grew over the ensuing years, as did its product line and popularity, especially in Europe.

Today, the company has two retail shops, retail connections throughout the world, and a beautifully designed website that is both functional and a pleasure to peruse. Piero Tucci also has guided tours of their workshop, which would be a fascinating stop if in the area for a vacation. Piero Tucci sent BestLeather their Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag for us to review, which is in their Toscanella collection. This collection centers around the use of vegetable dyed Florentine Vacchetta Leather.

LEATHER

For those of us who have purchased a quality leather good recently, you may recall the aroma you are exposed to when you first open the box to pull out your anticipated item. There is something satisfying and pleasant to that leather scent, a scent saying, “Herein lies something really great.” It was no different when I first opened the box containing the Toscanella Messenger Bag from Piero Tucci. The smell of the leather was terrific, reminiscent of stepping into a brand new Italian sports car, but without the sky high price.

Perhaps this particular scent is indicative of the Vacchetta leather that Piero Tucci uses. Vacchetta leather is calfskin leather that has been vegetable tanned. Vegetable tanning is the process of tanning leather with bark and similar organic extracts and takes significantly longer than chrome tanning. Calf skin is known for having a tighter grain than cowhide. It is commonly used in high end shoes and similar products, because using calf skin leather allows for using slightly thinner leather while still maintaining durability. The leather for this bag is approximately three ounces thick. The combination of the thinner calfskin leather means that the bag is both durable and lightweight for a mostly leather bag.

Piero Tucci uses top-grain leather for this bag, which means that the outermost layer of the hide is removed and sanded down to provide a more even appearance. Top-grain leather is technically not as strong as full grain leather (which is not sanded down or altered in any way), but it is still commonly used in higher end bags and furniture and will still last many years. The leather used for this messenger bag feels solid, yet supple. It also has a subtle pebbled feel, which just lends to its European style.

STYLE AND UTILITY

As is common with many high end Italian goods, the Toscanella Messenger Bag has lots of style. This particular bag is made with Piero Tucci’s tobacco colored Vacchetta leather, but they also have seven other colors to choose from (including safron, ivory, navy blue, etc.). The color is beautiful and the design of the bag is simple and elegant. You open the tall flap to get inside the bag, which has a zippered pocket for your phone, keys, and other goods. There is no buckle or snaps to fasten the top flap down, but after using the bag I do not feel that it is necessary.

When the bag is empty, it is actually completely flat by design. There is no side panel that increases the width of the bag, which means that the back and front pannels come together into a single leather bead. At first, I thought that this design would not allow me to carry much in the bag, but it surprisingly large. I was able to get my 13” Macbook Air, with leather sleeve, large, thick notebook cover, and my smaller moleskine notebook cover in without a problem. It easily fits enough for a day at the office or a day around town, but still maintains a slim profile. If you have large files or binders to haul around, you may want to consider one of their larger messenger bags or totes.

The bag also has two exterior pockets. The back pocket has no zipper and is about 12” deep. It allows for easy access to items you need while on the go. There is no lining to this pocket, just the nice vegetable tanned leather. The front pocket does have a zipper that is tethered with a strip of leather, so that when you open the zipper, the strip folds out. This is a nice bit of styling that I enjoyed.

The main compartment has a cotton lining that is fun, vertically striped, and multi-colored. This pattern gives the bag a bit of a stylish edge. Both the interior and the front exterior pockets share this same lining.

HARDWARE AND STITCHING

The hardware that Piero Tucci uses is all metal, from the zippers, to the “D” rings, to the rivets. The rivets in fact are stamped with Piero Tucci’s logo, as is the base of the two “D” rings, that the strap is attached to. The strap itself is made from strong nylon, with a colorful orange strip woven in. Similar to the strap, the thread used to sew the bag together is also nylon. While not quite as durable as polyester thread, it is still the thread of choice for many high-end leather producers.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

If you are looking for a bag that has a flare of European style, made with beautiful, durable leather, and that you can take to the office, to church, or around town with plenty of panache, then you’d be happy with the Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag from Piero Tucci.

April 14, 2014December 19, 2017

And The Winner Of The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffel Is Nick S. in Columbus, OH!

Congratulations to Nick S. for winning this beautiful Saddleback Leather bag out of 13,000 entries. He told me he would be using the bag for traveling and overnight trips.

Nick, the bag is shipping today! Enjoy!

We are grateful for the 13,000+ entries and to Saddleback Leather for providing this excellent giveaway!

Our next giveaway will be for several sets of Bickmore’s Leather Conditioners.

April 11, 2014May 9, 2020

Two Days Left To Enter The Saddleback Leather Duffel Giveaway

The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer…

Go here to enter to giveaway: http://bestleather.org/saddleback-leather-side-pocket-duffel-giveaway/

The giveaway will end on April 12th at 12PM. A winner will be selected at random and emailed.

April 11, 2014December 19, 2017

Coronado Leather Swiss Military Saddlebag – $599

The Coronado Leather Company was formed in 1981 in San Diego, California. Born of a small assortment of craftsman committed to producing high quality leather bags, the company has grown to offer a wide assortment of quality goods, but they have kept their focus on leather bags for both men and women. In particular, Coronado has created a niche for itself in the concealed carry leather goods industry (as in: a really cool, high quality leather item to conceal your firearm) for the responsible citizen and for law enforcement officers.

In addition to the aforementioned niche, Coronado Leather is also a company devoted to producing the highest quality goods with the highest quality raw materials. Coronado recently sent to BestLeather their Swiss Military Saddlebag as well as their Americana Large Duffel. This commitment to quality was immediately apparent after examining these two bags. For the purpose of this article, we’ll be taking a look at the Swiss Military Saddlebag, with a review of the Large Duffel to follow-up in a week or two.

DESIGN

The Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado is a replica of the same named saddlebags from the 1920’s to 1940’s. A snippet from Coronado’s site explains, “Originally used by the Swiss Army as saddle bags for donkeys and horses, they were later converted as functional briefcase/saddle bags by adding a leather strap (something that was not originally included). In wanting to maintain the authenticity of the original saddlebags, Coronado has designed the bag with almost 100% accuracy to the original.

In learning this, I took to the internet to see if I could find some of these original saddlebags, and sure enough, what I found were bags that looked exactly the same as the one we were sent by Coronado, albeit in a little rougher shape. I was amazed at how good some of these bags appeared, despite being almost as old as my grandparents. This is a testament to an excellent design and the use of high quality leather.

The design of the saddlebag is somewhat unique in that it consists of one compartment only, which can be expanded or contracted by cinching or loosening the side straps. There are also two 1¼” straps sewn to the inside of the bag, which can be used for securing notepads, a small tablet, or something similar. The bag also has sloped side panels, which lowers the front panel about 2” from the back of the bag. This was a smart design, especially if you were reaching into the bag while sitting on your horse or your ass (pun intended). Even though most of us would not be using it that way today, I still like the ease of accessing the contents of the bag with a lowered front flap, while you are walking and wearing the bag over your shoulder.

Another interesting feature of the bag is the top flap. Instead of using one single piece of leather from the back of the bag all of the way to the top flap, Coronado’s Saddlebag uses two pieces that are stitched to a third, 1” strap. Durability buffs may cringe at this, suggesting that this design makes the flap weaker–a complaint that does have some merit–but it does make the bag more flexible at the top and also allows the flap to fold completely back and lay flat against the back of the bag. This design allows for slightly greater function and is worth the incremental decrease in durability. The fact that many of these original Swiss military saddlebags are still around, and are even resold completely intact, suggests that there is no need to worry about the top flap coming apart.

SIMPLICITY

Leonardo Da Vinci once said, “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”. In creating high-quality leather goods, this maxim certainly holds true, and it is no exception for Coronado’s Swiss Military Saddlebag. If there was only one word allowed to describe the utility of this bag, it would be simple. It is meant to hold several things in one compartment and be incredibly durable. It does just that. It has no zippers or snaps, which are some of the more common items that can break on a bag, which increases the chance of the bag lasting generations.

The bag has two ¾” straps used to close and secure the bag, which you can quickly unbuckle and undo. In fact, I was able to buckle up and then undo the straps with just my right hand, while the bag was slung over my shoulder, which is very useful for somebody on the go.

LEATHER

One of the most, if not the most, beautiful aspects of the bag is the leather itself. This bag has been in my office for about a month now and I find myself glancing at it every once in a while and admiring it. The bag is made from ten ounce Horween Chromexcel leather. This is the thickest Chromexcel leather you can buy and is significantly thicker leather than most full leather bags are made from.

Chromexcel has been produced by the Horween Leather Company for nearly one hundred years, with a very similar recipe over its existence. With that type of pedigree, you can safely assume a high quality leather that lasts. Chromexcel is combination tanned, meaning it is both chrome and vegetable tanned. This produces a leather that has some of the more supple aspects of a chrome tanned leather, but the durability of a vegetable tanned leather.

Straight vegetable tanned leather that is ten ounces thick will generally be extremely rigid and very difficult to work. It is not something that you would typically make a bag that you walk around with. The combination tanning allows for a bag that has very thick leather, which I still cannot take my eyes off of, but is also very functional and supple. To boot, the leather is also “struck through”, which means the color of the bag is dyed through to the middle of the leather. Most tanneries do not take this extra step and when you cut into their leather you see the color on the top and bottom of the hide, but a blue or tan center. This is another reason that Chromexcel is a classy choice of leather for this bag.

HARDWARE AND THREAD

All of the hardware on Coronado’s Swiss Military Saddlebag is solid brass and is nickel plated. Like the bag itself, the hardware is somewhat subtle and is not oversized or overbearing. The buckles are ¾”, as are the strap rings. True to the original design, Coronado uses a rivet where the back flap and the side panel meet, as a measure of durability and strength. There are a few places that an additional rivet would be useful, namely to help fasten the front or the back straps. Instead, Coronado uses thick #270 polyester thread in these places, as well as wherever stitching is required. I would imagine that a rivet would be used in normal circumstances, but in wanting to stay true to the original design, they were not. And again, who can argue with a design that has already stood the test of time.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado Leather is a beautiful bag based on a classic design. The design is simple, true to its ancestors, and is made with some of the most durable, high quality leather you can find. It is built to last generations, just like its namesake. It is also made by a company that stands behind its products with a lifetime guarantee, making the decision of buying this bag a much easier one. If Leonardo were still around, I would not be surprised to see him toting the Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado Leather.

April 7, 2014December 19, 2017

Avund Goods – Changer Review – $22

Once in a while you come across a product that is handier than it initially seems. One such product is the Changer, by Avund Goods. Meant to hold some spare change, the Changer can actually be used for many other things, as will be pointed out. Avund Goods designs and produces fine leather products. Avund was created by Mika Bektor and Tom Hays, who both graduated from the Savannah College of Art and Design. They pooled their collective passion for art and design knowledge and formed Avund Goods in 2012.

We recently reviewed their Forsta V Wallet and Marine Shackle and enjoyed the opportunity of spending time with some of their goods. It has also been a pleasure to use and test the Changer, which is actually a by-product of producing their Forsta and Andra Wallet series.

NOT JUST A BY-PRODUCT

You can read on Avund’s site that their “products are designed for minimal material waste and efficient assembly”. The evidence of this is the Changer. Below is a picture showing the template for their Forsta Wallet and the Changer. You can see that the Changer is simply the triangular cutout of the wallet, which allows access to the wallet’s card slots. I love this ingenuity and focus on efficiency.

I can imagine the conversation between Mika and Tom, “What should we do with this triangular piece of left-over leather? Throw it away? No, one of our goals is to be efficient. How about a cool little holder for change that we fold over and fasten with a button rivet, which will also be used to keep it closed? Yes, that would be awesome!” Whether it happened that way, I’m not sure, but I know that I like the result.

LEATHER

One of the first things I noticed about the Changer was how stiff the leather is. This is due in part to the leather being vegetable tanned, which typically results in a stiffer leather. The leather is four to five ounce horse hide. The leather comes from what is called “North of Cordovan”. It is the section of horse hide that is just outside what is used for Shell Cordovan, some of the best and most expensive leather you can buy. It is tanned with the same processes that Shell Cordovan is tanned, and it yields a tight grain and unique pattern.

The majority of the pictures you see in this review are of the Changer after I’ve used it for about eight weeks. The leather is still very stiff and holds it’s shape very well. The color of the leather is natural (which is essentially a light tan color). This color of leather darkens over time and develops a beautiful, golden patina. You can see from the pictures that the leather is already darkening a bit.

Like all of Avund’s products, the edges of the Changer are beveled and then the fine tip is burnished. This attention to detail is commendable. Very few of the products that we review receive that level of detail. It makes the Changer feel more sophisticated and certainly makes your keyring a little more refined.

HARDWARE

The hardware for the Changer is quite simple. There is a single, stainless steel eyelet, which the heavy duty key ring is affixed to. There is a nickel plated, steel button rivet that holds together the two “wings” of the Changer. A hole is punched into the “nose” of the Changer, which is used to fasten the Changer onto the button. It really is a simple, but inventive design.

FUNCTION

Initially, I looked at the Changer as simply a small pouch for a few coins. It holds up to five quarters in fact, enough to purchase a can of soda from a vending machine, or enough for a really cheap do-it-yourself car wash. The Changer is big enough to hold enough cash to buy a candy bar, but does not hold enough cash to take your wife out on a date, so you will want to consider it’s size if you think it is something worthy of acquiring. It is meant to be a keychain accessory though, so you really do not want it to be too big.

Avund’s site also indicates that it is useful for holding a few guitar picks. That got me thinking. Coins, guitar picks, what else could the Changer hold? It did not take me long to come up with a list of ten items that would fit in the 1.5” by 1.5” by .5” space (these are the external dimensions, the useable space is smaller). Below is the list I came up with. You will have to let us know if you can think of other uses.

TOP TEN:

10 – Pencil Sharpener – Nobody likes writing with a dull pencil. Why not keep your sharpener close by.

9 – High Powered Magnets – Because they are just plain cool to play with.

8 – Earbuds – Not everybody wants to hear your music. This way you can plug in anytime.

7 – Crushed Red Pepper – You like heat. Make sure your next meal has enough.

6 – Stool Softener Pills- Need I say more?

5 – Legos – Need a quick distraction from work. A Gold Ninjago Ninja is the perfect playful distraction.

4 – Bandaids – for the construction worker who is all too familiar with cuts and abrasions.

3 – Starburst – You never know when you’ll need a quick sugar fix.

2 – 2032 Batteries – In case your garage door opener suddenly stops working.

1 – Coins – Hey, isn’t this what it was made for in the first place?

I tried to stuff a Dum Dum sucker into the Changer, but it would not quite close. It was worth a try.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Changer by Avund Goods is a clever use of some left-over leather. It certainly does not feel like a “left-over” product when you get your hands on it. It is designed for a beneficial purpose, and as I came to realize, it has many more uses than initially considered. It would look great and serve a useful purpose on any person’s keychain.

April 4, 2014December 19, 2017

Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case – $145.00

There are four leather smiths at Colsen Keane Custom Leather Goods. They make leather products to order. They take pride in paying attention to detail and taking the time to get it right. On their website, they have written, “Time leaves its mark on us… We believe that your personal time-mark is art.”

When I first saw the No 213 Tech Case by Colsen Keane, I thought it looked pretty handy. It is designed to handle all or most of your computer tech gear. We tested it and found it holds the Mac computer charger and extension cord, the iPhone charger and cord and ear pods, and a splitter to boot. This is good news for Mac users, but I’ve seen some PC chargers that would make this bag choke.

The case measures roughly 5 1/2 inches wide by 5 1/2 inches high, and it is 3 inches deep. You might want to measure all your stuff and see if it fits. If you have a large charger, you might want to consider keeping it in your backpack, briefcase or satchel–or you might want to consider getting a Mac.

CONSTRUCTION

The leather used to make the 213 Tech Case is 5 to 6 ounces of Chocolate Crazy Horse hide. Besides Crazy Horse, which is a twenty dollar option, the Tech Case is also available in Natural Tan and Deep Black. The grade is Tannery Run (TR). When a tannery first culls the best and the worst from the lot, Tannery Run is what is left. This means the Tech Case is made from good leather–not the best, but it doesn’t need to be.

When you see leather that looks like a three-part lamination, this is because the dye did not go all the way through, which is the situation with the Crazy Horse leather. The process to get the color all the way through is costly, both in time and money, and is reserved for the more expensive leathers. This does not affect the quality, and you will never wear through to the un-dyed grain unless you drag it behind your truck for a couple miles.

The Tech Case is hand stitched together using a 4 ounce waxed thread. This is heavy; I don’t think it will come apart or wear through unless you use a sharp knife or attack the case with an axe.

There is no hardware on the Colsen Keane Tech Case. The lid is long and tucks behind a strap across the front of the case. It seems appropriate to blend a utilitarian function into a utility case. The case wasn’t designed for or with bling; this simplicity of style is what accounts for its beauty.

FUNCTION

In the past, it was often necessary to pull my backpack apart to get to the cords I needed. This was because the backpack pockets for the tech gear did not expand, but would contour to the backpack and I could not see what I had inside–especially if I was looking for something small. This was time-consuming and irritating but, for all I knew, it was part of life and I accepted it. The Colsen Keane Tech Case has a wide throat. So now, my backpack stays orderly while needed cords and gear are always close at hand.

What also was frustrating with the backpack was the difficulty to get the pockets zipped once I had all the tech gear loaded. So, I was forced to leave them unzipped; sometimes small gear would fall out, such as the plugin module for the iPhone charger. How many times did I have to buy a new one? This is no longer a problem with the Tech Case. Even with the case full of gear, the lid is easy to close and reopen, if I need to grab something quickly.

The daily use for me is a MacBook Pro computer charger, remote Mouse, a custom PCMCIA card adapter and cord for a small CNC machine, iPhone to Mac cord, and ear pods. The most used tools are now conveniently accessible.

The case seems to become more relaxed with each day’s use. As a bonus, it does not fall over, as I expected, but stands upright on the desk, even with the lid open and folded back, as if waiting for me to reach in for another cord.

BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

You have probably heard the popular phrase, “Time is Money.” Well, the new meme is “Time is Art.” The Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case is well constructed with simplicity in the design. It is useful for organizing tech gear, but it looks and feels more elegant than a mere utility bag. The product is good and this writer has found the bag useful and attractive. The Crazy Horse is a good looking upgrade and well worth the extra twenty bucks. You can say the Tech Case is a work of art.

April 4, 2014May 9, 2020

Boot Wax from OtterWax – $15.95

Otter Wax is an all-natural leather care product based and designed in Portland, Oregon. Portland is a fitting place for such a product to come to light — all-natural leather care products? I would be surprised if you thought of any place other than Portland after reading those words.

boot wax

Boot wax by Otter Wax is an all-natural heavy duty leather sealant. As with most leather care products, the company keeps the formula very secret. Otter Wax does, at least, reveal that their Boot Wax is based around beeswax and lanolin as well as the fact that it is all-natural, so if you are looking for a non-chemical based product you have stumbled on one of the best.

Lanolin comes from the wool of sheep, and it helps seal in moisture while also repelling water.

benefits of using beeswax/natural products for leather care

It is a fact that is often overlooked, but leather is the skin of an animal, a carbon based organic material. So, if you were going to moisturize your own face, would you use a petroleum based product or would you use a natural moisturizer? It is a very simple answer that I am sure most of you would agree with: the less chemicals the better. It is the same story for leather care.

Beeswax is a natural hydrating agent which increases moisture retention. When leather is hydrated properly, it does not absorb water as easily–it has no need to absorb water as it has enough. Beeswax attaches itself to the fibers of the leather itself and creates a long-lasting and natural bond which will repel water and moisturize the leather. Though petroleum products work, it seems to me that they would break down the fibers rather than strengthen them. I believe that you should use the same care that you would for your own skin as you would your leather.

application – what you’ll need

The application process of Boot Wax is incredibly simple. And, really, you don’t even need a kit. All you really need is a soft cloth and the wax itself. If you have a brush, that is great, but you can do without if need be.

Before you start the process, make sure your boots/shoes are not cold. They do not need to be hot, but the process works better if they are at least warm; the reason being that leather has pores, just like our skin, and they dilate when they are warm, making the leather more absorbant.

You should also have time–preferably overnight– to give the boots a chance to set properly. The wax works best when it is able to sit for 6-8 hours.

Be sure to spot test, as this will darken the leather. Apply a little bit to a spot on the boot and make sure you are okay with this darkening. I personally think the leather looks better when it is properly moisturized, but it is definitely a personal preference.

step 1

Rub evenly in circular motions. Get a thin layer of wax over the entire boot; go two or three times over.

Get some light on your boots, so you can see what you are doing. Rub your cloth in the wax and apply the wax to the boot in a thin, even layer. Rub in circular motions making sure to pay attention to the seams and welt. Two or three layers would be best.

step 2

Rub off any excess wax with a soft cloth.

Rub off any excess wax and then let them sit overnight, or for at least 6 hours. Be sure to leave them in a room that is at least room temperature; this allows the pores to stay open and the wax to permeate deeper into the boot.

step 3

With either your cloth or with a brush, buff the leather until it is slightly shiny. This is important as it creates a final barrier between water and the leather, which will improve the water repellency of the leather.

Slight color darkening -- I actually like it quite a bit. Personal preference. — Slight color darkening — I actually like it quite a bit. Personal preference.

BestLeather conclusion

This is by far my favorite sealant. By far. I do not feel great about applying petroleum based products to my beautiful leather products — it does not feel right. Before Otter Wax, I used SnoSeal, another beeswax based sealant, but it does not come anywhere close to the protection of Boot Wax.

At $15.95 for a 4oz tin, you are getting a fantastic product that smells great, looks great, and does a great job of protecting and conditioning your leather. For $27.95, you get the whole kit and kaboodle.

April 4, 2014December 19, 2017

Gfeller Casemakers IPhone 5 Holster Review – $55

Gfeller Casemakers is a custom maker of high quality leather goods. They began crafting leather tool bags and holsters in the 1940s, as a response to a burgeoning need for the geoscience community. In more recent years, they have broadened their product line to notebook covers, general use bags, phone cases, and they also do custom leather work for various high-end companies. For more information on Gfeller Casemakers as a company, you can read our visit to their shop article here. We had an opportunity recently to use and test their IPhone 5 holster, which they custom made for this review.

FUNCTION

Most leather IPhone cases on the market these days are classic soft shell sleeves, where you slide your phone in, stash it in your pocket, and then pull it out when you need it. The Gfeller Casemakers IPhone holster is unique in that it is a hardshell holster, one that you can clip onto your belt for easy access. I like this because it allows you to keep your beautiful IPhone naked, when you are using it, but well protected and easily accessible, when you are not. The phone slides easily in and out of the holster, a testament to a precision crafted, handmade item. The clip is very sturdy, and I never felt like the holster would come off my belt accidentally.

One consideration in deciding to purchase a case like this is whether you like having your phone unprotected while in use. My previous case was on my phone 24/7, giving my IPhone continuous protection. You will not get that from the Gfeller IPhone holster, so that is one thing to be aware of when considering a case of this type. If you need your phone to be constantly protected, then another case would be necessary. The flip side of that coin is that you get to use the phone in the form it was originally intended.

The hard shell aspect of the holster is reminiscent of a formed knife sheath, or formed gun holster, where your knife or gun fits perfectly into their respective sheath. This type of case is perfect for individuals in a number of trades (construction workers, carpenters, plumbers, masons, etc.), where both solid protection and quick access is important. Another indication of a well thought out product is a thin piece of leather on the inside of the holster, which protects your phone from the metal of the belt clip. Your phone will appreciate this too, so as to avoid scratching and marring. Though the phone does slide easily in and out, the fit is fairly snug, so at times I had to make sure I had a firm grip on the phone as I was putting it back in the case, so as to avoid accidentally dropping it. As is the case with most quality leather, the leather will stretch a bit over time, making the fit a little easier.

The holster we used for this review has a vertical orientation, you slide the phone in bottom side down. Gfeller’s typical IPhone cases are horizontal, you lay them in long side down. The advantage to a horizontal orientation is that the holster runs parallel with your belt and therefore does not protrude into your side when sitting down. Personally, I like the vertical case as it is more natural to pull it out and use it in the same direction as it comes out. Of course, this is a completely personal preference; either orientation will serve the purpose well. The good thing is that you could get yours either way.

LEATHER

Gfeller uses leather from the Hermann Oak Leather Company for their IPhone 5 Holster, as well as for the majority of their products. This holster is made from eight to nine ounce, vegetable tanned leather. In particular, the type of leather is natural russet skirting. This is a super durable type of leather, that when wet allows you to form the leather to various shapes (hence the formed, hardshell case). When dried, the result is a hardened case.

The holster that we reviewed is a natural, light brown color. Gfeller does offer customers the option of choosing a black holster for an additional $5. The natural color is great because it develops a beautiful patina over time and use, giving the leather additional character.

STITCHING

The white stitching against the light colored leather is a beautiful combination. Gfeller uses five cord (the higher the number, the thicker the thread) natural linen for the stitching on their IPhone holsters. They lubricate the linen thread with Sellari’s Natural Stitching Wax, for ease of stitching. This stitching also acts as an adhesive when dry, which further bonds the pieces of leather together.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Admittedly at BestLeather, we prefer goods to be made out of leather when possible and feasible. When considering an IPhone case, many of us prefer a sturdy, hand made, beautiful holster like the one from Gfeller Casemakers than one made out of plastic (machine made) that will eventually break. At $55, the cost of this case is comparable to what you get for such hardshell, plastic cases, but it is infinitely more beautiful and special. It will stand the test of time and will probably outlast the phone itself, after which you could use it to hold business cards or some small tool.

If you are in the market for a beautiful sheath for your IPhone 5, then Gfeller Casemaker’s IPhone 5 holster is an excellent choice.

April 3, 2014December 19, 2017

Moore & Giles Brennan Rucksack Review – $515

Moore & Giles is a leather manufacturer based in Forest, Virginia. They produce fine leather for the high-end hospitality industry, high-end furniture industry, and the commercial and residential interior design market. They have been producing leather since 1933 and have established relationships with many retailers across the United States and select international countries.

(We recently posted a video produced by Moore & Giles showing how their leather is made. It is a fantastic video and is worth re-posting here.)

With its prime business in producing excellent leather for several industries, it was just a matter of time before Moore & Giles began manufacturing their own leather bags and goods. One interesting aspect of all of Moore & Giles leather goods is that each product is named after someone from the company. With names like the Donald, Benedict, Graeme and Taylor, it makes one want to apply for a job with the hopes of some fine luxury good sharing your name. With a line of high-end wallets, handbags, briefcases, dopp kits and other goods, Moore & Giles is making a name for itself in the high-end leather goods business as well.

We recently had the opportunity of reviewing the Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles. Rucksacks are of German origin and are essentially a smaller version of a backpack, meant to be worn over your shoulder. Similarly, the Brennan Rucksack has a single strap for that purpose, or a handle used for carrying with one hand.

FUNCTION

When discussing the Brennan Rucksack with Moore & Giles head designer, Thomas Brennan (the Rucksack’s namesake), he indicated that the Brennan is the go to bag for Moore & Giles’ President and Vice-President, and is used by half of the staff at their Italian Tannery. With that type of adoption from the company’s own, there must be something special about this rucksack. It really is pretty simple. The rucksack is made to be compact, is durable and functional, and the leather is beautiful.

The rucksack has a single exterior zipper that stretches from one side, over the top, to the other side. This zipper is a #5 Excella 2-way zipper by YKK. The YKK Group is known to produce some of the finest zippers available. Open the zipper completely and you have easy access to the entire contents of the bag.

The inside of the bag has a main compartment with a small pocket for your cell phone, as well as three pen sleeves. It has a zipped pocket for various items, as well as a separate compartment, for a 13” laptop or an IPad, which is padded for support and protection. My 13″ Macbook Air fit perfectly, but a larger 13″ laptop may be a very tight squeeze. The rucksack also has an exterior pouch that can stash a magazine or folded over newspaper, perfect for easy access.

Part of the advantage of the rucksack could also be a drawback– the size. It is meant to be a more compact version of a backpack, which it is. That means you cannot stuff if with a lot of gear, and the largest laptop it fits is 13”. If you need a lot of room for all your books or gear, or have a bigger computer, you would be better off with one of Moore & Giles’ messenger bags or briefcases. The bag works well for me though. I’m able to fit my Macbook Air, notebook cover from Saddleback Leather, journal, and other items without a problem.

LEATHER

With a huge variety of leather to choose from for this bag, Moore & Giles went with their Titan Milled leather. A description from Moore & Giles website indicates that “these natural leathers are produced on the finest hides available, then processed with pure water straight from the Italian alps. An innovative hot wax tannage technique highlights the natural tones and rich colors of this leather that will only be enhanced over time in both feel and appearance”. Then, the leather undergoes a natural milling process which provides a worn, pebbled appearance. At first, I thought the leather was embossed, but the milling process itself actually shrinks the hide and pulls out the pebbled appearance. The result is impressive. The bag has a supple feel, but feels very sturdy at the same time.

All of Moore & Giles leathers are either full grain or top-grain (top-grain leather is “corrected” in some way, usually sanded to eliminate imperfections, while full grain leather is not corrected). The Brennan Rucksack is of the full grain variety, which has the tightest grain possible. The vast majority of Moore & Giles leathers are around 1.2 mm thick (three ounces). The Brennan is no exception, being made from three to three and a half ounce leather. For leather novices, leather thickness is typically defined in ounces. If a one square foot piece of leather weighs three ounces, then it is three ounce leather. The thicker the leather is, the heavier the leather will be; therefore, thicker leather is always associated with a higher number of ounces.

The Titan Milled leather is both vegetable and chrome tanned, in a one hundred and fifty year old Italian tannery, with old world techniques. The leather is folder over on most of the edges of the bag, which provides for a soft feel. The zipper pull leather edges are actually burnished, which is a nice touch for such a small detail. The leather is also “struck through,” which means it has been drum dyed until the dyes soak all of the way through the leather. This is a time consuming process, requiring much more time than normal in the large dye drums, that only the finest leathers undergo.

LINING

The lining for the Brennan is a custom jacquard, which Moore & Giles has custom made for them in Italy. A jacquard is an intricate weave, named after the French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard, and allows for complex woven-in designs, such as the company’s logo. The lining feels very durable and appears to be of the variety which allows for easy cleanup if you happen to drip your morning coffee into it while reaching for the paper.

THREAD AND HARDWARE

Moore & Giles uses cast zinc hardware for the three D rings on the bag, as well as for the strap clips. They have an antique brass finish, which pairs well with the dark brown leather.

The Brennan is also sewn with dark brown, size 92 polyester thread. Polyester thread is significantly stronger than cotton thread and much more so than even tough nylon. It is the same type of thread used for making sails and parachutes. It is the type of thread you want your bag to be held together by.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles is crafted from leather that is durable and beautiful, and the bag is constructed very well. It is produced by a company with a long history of producing some of the finest leathers and leather goods made. It is a classy alternative to a backpack and a bag you would be proud of owning.

April 2, 2014December 19, 2017

A Review of the Forest Heights Piedmont Boot from Danner – $285

Portland, Oregon is a hub for all that is cool. As Fred Armisen would say, “The dream of the 90s is alive in Portland.” People wear flannel shirts, tights jeans, big glasses, gauges, the lot. It is a timeless casually classy look. Leather is everywhere you look — Leather wallets, leather pants, leather jackets, leather iPhone cases, leather bags, leather, leather, leather, leather, and, finally, more leather. The most prominent of all of these trades are boots — Portland is a leather boot city. And that is where Danner comes in.

I have been wearing the Forest Heights Piedmont boots from Danner for about a month now and I am thoroughly impressed. A few weeks ago, I wrote an article on Danner and an article on my first impressions of these boots. If you want more information on the company or on my first impressions, please check them out!

construction

The Forest Heights Piedmont Boots, named after the west hills of Portland, are handbuilt in Danner’s Portland factory. They are constructed from Horween leather which is welted to a Vibram 232 mini-lug outsole using a Goodyear Welt. They are built entirely by hand by a team of craftsman — it is said that over 100 hands will touch your boots before they leave the Portland factory. That is insane, considering how huge their production is. This is not a boutique boot company, this is an enormous, global boot company and to have that kind of craftsmanship standards is beyond astonishing.

Check out that traction! 45 degree mossy slope and holding strong.

These boots are built solid. The Horween leather is gorgeous and tough and, combined with a Vibram sole, means that these boots are built for the everyday adventures of Urban Explorers. And because they are welted(stitched) together, the boots are not going to come apart if you wear them day in and day out. The combination of leather welted to Vibram is pretty spectacular. You get the classy aesthetic of a welted leather boot with the usability/traction of a Vibram sole, not to mention it is much more durable than a glued sole.

Vibram 232 Mini-Lug soles. Solid performance on trails and in the city.

aesthetic

Just a note — men who wear classy leather boots with straight cut jeans are 78% more likely to attract a mate. And man, do the Piedmonts fit this bill. I have not seen many boots as classy and beautiful as the Piedmonts. The tan leather on the black sole is a timelessly classy look, yet somehow slightly rugged in these boots. The outsole is very low profile, which gives it a classy look, even though it is much more functional than your average leather sole boot.

The leather, with each step, will wear and conform to your foot. In other words, after a few weeks of wear, the boots will look worn. Which just adds to the cool aesthetic. It gives the boots a rugged look, which is much appreciated.

The aesthetic is one that would not be out of place in an office setting, just as it is one that would not be out of place on the Wildwood Trail or a walk up Burnside in a Portland mizzle. These are a great combination of style, class, function, and durability.

function

I have been wearing these boots for about a month straight now. In that time, we have had snow, rain, and sub-zero temps. It has been a harsh month as far as inclement weather goes and the Piedmonts have stood up to all of it.

The combination of leather with the Vibram sole does not just look good; rather, it creates a weather-resistent boot capable of walking through puddles and snow banks alike without any issues. The major crestfall of a leather-sole boot is that there is limited(if any at all) traction and that it will have problems if you walk through a puddle. This is where Danner comes in — The Piedmonts, with their Vibram sole, will grab onto snow and mud and will not allow water to permeate into the boot. Dry feet are happy feet.

Though they are quite weatherproof, I would still recommend applying a waterproofer (preferably a natural brand, such as SnoSeal or Otter Wax) to increase the leather’s ability to repel water. This will help protect the leather as well as give you a drier foot in the long run.

A test of both OtterWax and Horween leather, my treated Piedmonts are quite water resistant.

These are an unlined boot, so they are not exactly warm, but I haven’t had any problems with longer excursions in the cold — Just throw on a good pair of woolies and you are set!

As with any quality leather product, there is a break in period. I have been wearing the Piedmonts for a month or so and they are pretty well broken in — Well, enough to where they are extremely comfortable to wear for an entire day. But, I can see them continuing to wear with me as I wear them.

The Piedmonts are true to size.

BestLeather Conclusion

There is an ample supply of classy looking leather boots out there, but few have the durability of these Danner’s. I am impressed by these boots. They have stood up to a three hour muddy romp through the woods, puddles, snow banks, 13+ hours on end of wear, and no problems at all.

Water beading up -- a testament to OtterWax and Horween! — Water beading up — a testament to OtterWax and Horween!

And the break in period is great for an unlined pair of full grain leather boots!

For $285, you are getting what you pay for. An excellent, beautiful, classy, well-built, and quality pair of boots that is as functional as it is great to look at. A great boot to wear in the city, a great boot to wear on the trail, a great boot to wear in a snow storm, you cannot go wrong with a pair of Danner Forest Heights Piedmonts, a boot for the urban explorer.

Check the Piedmonts out on Danner’s website!

If you have a pair of Danner boots, please share your story below!

April 1, 2014May 9, 2020

How Tough is Saddleback Leather’s Macbook Air Sleeve?

Leather is generally considered to be a fairly tough material, and full grain leather, the type we love to see and feel at BestLeather, is the toughest kind of leather. Full grain leather (the outermost layer of leather that is not sanded, smoothed, or corrected in any way) is the type of leather used by companies like Basadar and Saddleback Leather Company. I recently had the unfortunate experience of realizing how tough Saddleback’s leather is, while using Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve.

SPRING BREAK

My wife and I, along with our four children, took a trip to Utah over spring break. We had a great time visiting with friends and seeing some of the sites. When the fun was over, we packed up our Honda Odyssey at the hotel and got everyone and everything into the car (or so we thought). Unbeknownst to me, my wife left her recent model Macbook Air on top of the van as she was helping get the kids situated and in their car seats. I unabashedly admit that I am a fan of Saddleback Leather goods, and when we bought this computer, I purchased a Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve as a measure of protection for it. So the laptop sat on top of our car in its comfy sleeve.

THE MISHAP

We drove the mile to the freeway entrance, turned onto the onramp, and were almost at freeway speed when we heard something hit the car. We looked around and didn’t see anything amiss, but then noticed the car behind us flashing their lights. I figured something was wrong, so I pulled over. Not seeing anything, we got back on the freeway; shortly thereafter, my wife blurted out, “I left the computer on top of the car!”

We took the next exit and circled back so that we could retrace our steps. As we came to where we remember something hitting our car, we slowed down to where we thought the computer might be, and sure enough, there it was on the side of the road. I carefully pulled over, and my wife ran out and grabbed it. I snapped a few pictures with my IPhone 5. The computer was mostly in the sleeve, but was part way out when she picked it up. One side of the sleeve was gouged, scratched, and marred, while the other side was relatively unscathed.

Amazingly, the computer was perfectly intact, minus a few scratches on the lid. We opened it up and voila, it snapped awake as it always has.

I was dumbfounded. I fully expected the computer to be a write-off and was almost tempted to just leave it to the elements after we realized what it was that fell off the car. For the computer to be perfectly sound after falling nearly six feet, at sixty miles an hour is either a miracle, or a testament to some of the best leather you can find. Below are a few more close up pictures that I took after we got home.

THE LEATHER

My Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve was beaten up, but there were no gouges that cut all the way through to the laptop. In fact, none of the gouges made it through to the pigskin lining (Saddleback Leather’s lining of choice). A skid on the freeway at 60 MPH is a good way to test how tough leather is, and, though I hope that I will not be performing that test again anytime soon, it was interesting to see the result. Fortunately, my computer was housed with thick, four to five ounce, vegetable tanned boot leather. Because Saddleback also uses leather that is tanned and drum dyed all of the way through to the middle (the terminology in leather speak is ‘struck through’), my sleeve is still the same color, even where the gouges and scratches are. This is great leather and this is a tough sleeve for a Macbook Air.

THE THREAD

Similar to the toughness of the leather, I found that the continuous filament polyester thread that Saddleback uses is also tough as nails. Much of the thread was frayed on the side with all of the scratches, but I did not see a single piece of thread that had broken or come undone. Every single stitch was still intact. Tough leather and tough thread — that is a winning combo.

Though I am pretty sure that the Saddleback Leather Macbook Air Sleeve was not designed to be tossed out of a car at 60 MPH, I am very glad that they design very hardy and durable leather goods. One thing that may have prevented any scratches on the computer was some sort of a clasp or snap at the mouth of the sleeve, which would have prevented the computer from coming out at all. Perhaps this is too much to ask for as the result of one freak accident, but it is a consideration nonetheless.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Though it was not my intention to write a review of the Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve, this situation gave me a good reason to at least share my experience with it. Saddleback’s Macbook Air Sleeve is tough, it is beautiful, it fits perfectly, and if you have the misfortune of a mishap like mine, you will be glad that you paid the price for a quality leather product.

March 31, 2014November 22, 2021

A Review of TrunkClub.com – Part 1

BestLeather.org has partnered with TrunkClub.com to provide a full review of the Trunk Club experience, service level, and products. As always, we will share the results with you to help you better decide if they are appropriate for yourself.

What is TrunkClub.com?

Imagine receiving a custom tailored box of clothes from a high end retailer each time you want new clothes –that’s TrunkClub.com. You suggest what would be appropriate for you through their online sizing, styling, and ordering process, and then they do the rest of the work. One week later, you receive a box of clothes on your doorstep (that you will have to sign for) with items suited to your style. That’s it. Shop online, save time.

Through the service, you can acquire shoes, belts, pants, socks, shirts, sport coats, ties, and bowties. The focus is definitely up-market, but, along with the “dressed-to-the-nines” trunk, you can also request a casual trunk.

It’s an interesting idea to ship custom clothing packages, and it seems to be catching on in a big way. Trunk Club is shipping over 1000 “trunks” per month–at an average of $1,000. That is some serious volume. Furthermore, with 182,000 fans on Facebook, there is quite a large pool of customers ready to pay for these custom services. In 2012, Trunk Club did 17 million dollars in revenue and projected numbers for 2013 were around 40 million dollars!

Judging from the number of open positions advertised on Indeed.com, we suspect Trunk Club plans to continue their impressive growth.

signup

For the MBA student readers we have here, pay attention to this: there is a smart rule in business that says to make as few steps as possible for customers to give their money to you. Trunk Club does this well.

Your first glance through the website makes the sales process instantly clear.

1) Sign up.

2)Your individually assigned stylist selects your clothes according to your specifications.

3) In about a week, open the box.

The actual process was that simple. Sign up took three or four minutes. My very pleasant stylist, Holly, called me that evening and we talked about my preferences. And here, a week later, I write these first thoughts with my introductory trunk sitting on the bed.

So far, I am impressed with the service. It has been concise, professional, prompt, and easy. There is a lot of hard-earned wisdom that has gone into this business model. It is well worth paying attention to, but is it worth subscribing to?

Next up, we will evaluate the value of these items Trunk Club sent. What do you get in a $2,500 trunk and what happens if you don’t like it? Those important questions and more in the next article.

March 28, 2014December 19, 2017

Bickmore Leather Conditioner Review – $9.99

The Bickmore Leather Company was started over 100 years ago by Dr. A. Parker Bickmore, who saw a need to treat draft horses who were plagued with sores caused by harness use. With his pharmaceutical knowledge and his business acumen, Bickmore created a salve that would effectively treat the horses. That simple salve was the beginning product of a company dedicated to producing the highest quality products for the leather industry (for a more in-depth look at their story, go here). Bickmore has a four pronged approach to their product line: leather care, health care, hat care, and equine grooming care products. They are constantly improving their products, and not settling for even good results. The Japanese word for this idea is kaizen, which Wikipedia defines as the “philosophy or practices that focus upon continuous improvement of processes in manufacturing, engineering, and business management”.

BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a small sample of their product line: the Bick 1 Leather Cleaner ($9.99 for eight ounces), Bick 4 Leather Conditioner ($9.99 for eight ounces), and Gard-More Water & Stain Repellent ($9.99 for five point five ounces).

product knowledge

Bickmore’s leather care products are ideally meant to be used in a sequence. The Leather Cleaner is first. Its purpose is to remove soil, grease, spur marks, and most food and ink stains, while at the same time not discoloring or darkening the leather. This is important because dirt and grime can actually cut, damage or weaken the fibers of leather, leading to more rapid aging and deterioration. Bickmore’s Leather Cleaner is specifically formulated to clean leather, while allowing the leather to breathe, further allowing the fibers to flex freely.

The next step is to apply Bick 4, their Leather Conditioner. Bick 4 restores natural oils to the leather, lubricates the fibers, and helps to prevent scuffing, cracking, and some staining to occur. Bick 4 leaves behind no residue and contains no silicone, which allows the leather to breathe easier. Applying leather conditioner is important because it reduces the effects of sunlight exposure, normal wear and tear, and temperature extremes.

The last step is to apply Gard-More Water & Stain Repellent. This is a spray application, whereas Bick 1 and Bick 4 are a wipe on application. Similar to Bick 4, Gard-More has no silicone and is formulated to allow the leather to breathe appropriately. It does not stain or change the color of the leather in any way, but will still protect the leather from perspiration, water, and grease.

method

Of course, the best method of reviewing Bickmore’s products was to use them on some of our own, well used goods. For this article, I decided to use the three products on my Saddleback Leather large billfold wallet, which I have had for about two years now, and my Saddleback Leather 1 3/4″ tow belt (which is no longer in production). Both the wallet and the belt are Saddleback’s dark coffee brown, which over time, has lightened in color with heavy use.

To demonstrate the use of Bickmore’s products, I first took pictures of both the wallet and the belt before any treatment, then again after using Bick 1, and then again after using Bick 4. I did spray both the belt and the wallet with Gard-More, but as it is intended, the liquid quickly evaporated with no change in appearance. I figured that documenting the evaporation would be fairly tricky camera work, so the after pictures for the Gard-More were forgone.

wallet

For this review I focused on the inside of my wallet. The inside had the most use and abuse from repeatedly pulling credit cards in and out of the sleeves, as you can see from the photo below. The wallet also is a little discolored and pigmented from normal wear and tear.

Below is a picture of the wallet after using Bick 1 Leather Cleaner. Although there was not a lot of dirt and grime on the wallet per se, you can definitely tell a difference in the color and texture of the leather as a result of the cleaning. Much of the discoloration is gone, and the leather has more of a rich color again.

Below is a picture of the wallet after using Bick 4 Leather Conditioner. Although there is not much, if any, of a noticeable difference in appearance after using Bick 4, it is important that it be used to re-condition and moisturize the leather after using a cleaning agent. My wallet was looking used and abused and certainly does look better now. The cleaner and conditioner did not remove all evidence of the scratches, which I was very happy with. Part of the beauty of leather is the patina and the marks that you make, which gives it more character.

belt

Similar to the wallet, my tow belt has received regular use. I pulled my belt off and unbeknownst to me, it had a nice stain on it. Of what, I’m not sure, and probably don’t want to know. With four little kids in my house, it could be anything. “Perfect for this review,” I thought.

Below is a picture of my belt before any application. Notice the stain, some discoloration, and some general looking wear.

Below is a picture of the belt after using Bick 1 Leather Cleaner. The difference in appearance is significant. That beautiful luster is back and this after a cleaning that took no more than 30 seconds. I used a simple white rag that I had laying around and used about a quarters size of cleaner. I rubbed the entire belt, but spent a little more time on the stain.

Here is the belt after applying Bick 4 Leather Conditioner. As with the wallet, I did not notice anything different with how the belt looked after the application. Several hours after applying Bick 4, I took another look at the belt and it looked the same as after the immediate application. This suggests a product that does not quickly fade, but rather really penetrates the leather as it is supposed to.

BestLeather conclusion

Using Bickmore’s leather care products was easy and had noticeable results. Their commitment to manufacturing products that allows leather to breathe as it should and to using chemicals that are completely leather friendly is commendable. The results of my mini-experiment demonstrate that Bickmore’s products work, and that they bring back to life faded and used leather. My belt and my wallet are thankful for this and I’m sure your leather goods will be too.