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April 19, 2016December 19, 2017

Dayton Boots Parade Boot Review – $422

I’m sure I’ve said this before, but I absolutely love a good pair of boots. There’s something about lacing up your dress boots to go out or kicking off a pair of work boots after a long day that just never gets old. I have been extremely excited about the Dayton Parade Boots for a long time, and after an entire year of wear, it is time to give my opinion.

About

Dayton Boots has been around since the winter of 1946. Charlie Wohlford, the man behind Dayton boots had been successfully repairing logger’s boots back to better than new. Soon the small company was the go to place for all logging, construction, fire, and police professionals, especially considering the lifetime warranty. Since 1946, Dayton Boots has introduced numerous new models, adapted the Goodyear Welt boot making method, and climbed the rungs of the boot industry to one of the best handmade boot companies.

Construction

The construction of a pair of Dayton boots is the company’s bread and butter. The company has been using the same 230 steps for constructing their boots since 1946. The Parade Boot is constructed using hand cut full grain leather for the upper, 6-12 iron (8-16oz) full grain for the insole and outsole and steel shanks to add extra durable support. These quality materials are then hand sewn together with double and triple stitching, and finally are Goodyear welted, all to the exact specifications you give them for sizing. The reason Goodyear welting is such a widely favored method for boots is because it is much more durable than other methods, and it is very easy to get them resoled. Dayton Boots is well known for having boots last several decades because of resoling, and I am definitely going to be using this service. I have been very impressed with the superb construction and have not found one flaw in over a years worth of wearing the Parade Boots.

Function

If you couldn’t tell from the name and design, the Parade Boots derived from old army marching (parade) boots. This is actually one of my favorite styles of boot across the entire industry, and the Parade boot resembles that heritage dutifully. Although I am not using my Dayton Parade boots for marching, I definitely have used them for my fair share of walking, motorcycling, and even dressing up. This boot is truly an attractive, multifunction, and high quality boot.

We often hear about new boot owners and their painful experience with breaking in a pair of boots, but I am happy to say that I did not experience any discomfort or pain in breaking in my boots, and I have before with others. Dayton constructed my boots to the exact specifications of my foot, and they have functioned perfectly since day 1.

Aesthetic

The Dayton Parade Boots are some of the more attractive boots I have seen. The black leather can be worn with anything, and it obvious that the construction is better than most boots. I frequently am complemented on them, and when people ask about these boots, I happily tell them that the Dayton Parade Boots are among the best you can buy, and even though the investment is significant (which is actually less than it was a year ago), it will be worth it in the long run.

The design and construction, fit, and the multifunction qualities of the boots are absolutely going to withstand anything you can throw at them, and if you do happen to need new soles, Dayton would be happy to resole them for only $84.

Verdict

As I said before, I was extremely eager to check out the Dayton Parade Boots. After a year of wearing them and putting on some serious mileage, I am still excited to lace them up as often as possible. Dayton has accomplished everything you could ask for in a high-quality boot. Priced at $422 total, the Parade Boot is actually a competitive, fair price in the industry for such top-tier quality. Go ahead and check out all the great boots Dayton has to offer– it is an investment you will not regret.

April 18, 2016December 19, 2017

Leather 101: The Different Types of Leather

Leatherworking has been around for as long as man has been eating meat. It’s an old craft with lots of tradition and terminology. This makes learning about the leather craft a whole lot of fun, but it can also make it confusing for consumers. When buying leather products, you want to make sure you know what you’re paying for. This often means wading through the marketing and learning some of the common terminology when it comes to different types of leather.

About Cowhide

A cow, if you’ve never happened to see one, is a pretty big animal, so it has thick skin, and a lot of it. A whole cowhide is quite thick, and generally too thick to be useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to be thinner and more useful for different purposes. (You can learn more about this from our last Leather 101 topic: Measuring the Thickness of Leather).

Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and softer than the hides of older animals.

The top part of the grain faces outward toward the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This means that the very top part of the grain is often buffed off to make the leather look more uniform.

Types of Leather

Top grain
Full grain
Split leather
Bonded leather

When the leather is corrected in any way, it is called top grain. Leather with the entire grain intact is called full grain. Full grain leather, even though it may have blemishes, is more expensive and more sought-after than top grain leather because of its durability and longevity. Both full grain and top grain leathers are referred to as grain leather.

Among grain leathers there are three general categories: aniline, semi-aniline, and protected. Analine leathers (like Horween’s Chromexcel) are processed using soluble dyes to maintain their natural markings and texture, and do not have a surface pigment or coating. This makes them the most natural-looking leathers, but also more susceptible to scratching, fading and staining. Semi-analine leathers (like most bridle leathers) are treated with pigments and thus conceal more blemishes and have a more uniform coating, as well as staying more protected. Protected leathers have a non-leather coating sprayed or attached to the leather as a protectant.

The bottom part of the leather, the part that is split off from the grain at the grain/corium junction, goes by many different names, and it can get really, really confusing. Many people refer to this bottom layer of leather as “genuine leather”, however, the term isn’t used consistently and is also used to mean real leather as opposed to manmade faux leathers. More terms you may see: split leather, corrected leather, embossed leather, coated leather, Suede, Napa leather (again, not a consistently used term), painted leather, and more. For our purposes, we’re going to refer to it as split leather.

Split leather can then be sliced down even thinner and used for other purposes. Often a polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic a grain leather; however these leathers are not nearly as strong or durable. This is sometimes referred to as a finished split.

Another use for split leather is suede, which has been textured to have a napped finish. Suede is often confused with nubuck, which is a grain leather that is textured to have a similar nap finish. The difference is that nubuck is much stronger and more durable than suede, though suede’s softness and pliability make it useful for certain applications.

Bonded leather is the lowest grade of leather, because it is not really leather – just shredded leather scraps and bits reconstituted with a filler and backed with an embossed polyurethane coating. It’s very cheap, but falls apart quickly. Bonded leather is found in low-end furniture and accessories, and sometimes book binding. You may also see this referred to as reconstituted or blended leather.

An old Bible with a bonded leather cover

How to Spot Fake Leather

There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. Artificial leather also doesn’t have a pullup effect, which is a slight color variation when grain leather is bent or folded. Painted or polyurethane layers are non porous and thus do not effectively absorb leather conditioners.

Again, a word of warning to consumers: many of these terms are not used consistently, and you can get confused easily. The most common mistake I’ve run into is the use of the term “genuine leather”. Genuine leather is most frequently used to describe low quality split leather, but to be honest, it’s a dumb word, because many people (including myself) have made the very easy mistake of assuming that the word “genuine” means the opposite of “fake.” So I’ve seen lots of leather shops use the term “genuine” in their product descriptions, in an attempt to convey the fact that they are not using faux leather. But that term just ends up scaring people off, even if they have a solid product made with decent leather.

Go out there with your newfound knowledge, but be aware that sneaky marketing terms, old-fashioned lingo, and honest mix-ups can make things difficult. So don’t be afraid to ask questions!

April 13, 2016December 19, 2017

North Star Leather Small Bifold Wallet with Window – $24.95

Quality is a difficult term to define. I believe that definitions of quality are unique to an individual’s character, but no matter who you ask, we all can agree on one thing: we know quality when we see it. In the case of North Star Leather Company, they have created quality products at an affordable price. This is the third product from North Star that we have reviewed, and it also does not disappoint. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window is a sensible, quality wallet at an unbeatable price, perfect for a leather beginner without breaking the bank.

About

Michael Batson, son of founder Steve Batson, gave us a short history of North Star Leather Co., an great example of a family business who started years ago, building themselves up to be a successful craft leather company.

“My dad started North Star Leather in 1969 doing street vending in Boston (fringe belts, floppy hats, and other “hippy” items). Little by little he grew the company and eventually moved to the rural south; the small town of Ruby, SC, population 354. That was more than 35 years ago and we’ve been making quality leather accessories here ever since. We have 15 employees (4 of whom are family) and are proud to have been able to keep making our products here in the USA without ever considering outsourcing production to cheaper countries.”

Construction

The Small Leather Bifold Wallet is constructed using top-grain leather. The small wallet stands at 4.25 inches long by 4.25 inches wide when it is folded. Inside, the wallet contains “a large cash compartment that opens on two sides for easy access, ID window with a pocket underneath, and three card pockets on the opposite side that open from the side.” A plastic photo holder is also included with the wallet to hold a few meaningful pictures. The small wallet is very sturdy, constructed well, and has actually aged extremely well. The leather is stacked on each other and sewn together, so you do lose the clean line look of the wallet, but at the price, most people would not be hung-up over that for too long.

Function

As with all wallets, the purpose is pretty straightforward. I am able to carry two IDs, two debit cards, several gift cards, two to three coffee shop stamp cards, and more cash than I probably ought to be carrying. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window has been put to a considerable test. BestLeather has had this wallet for over 1 year and it has performed better than any store bought wallet I have ever had, and at half the price. The Small Bifold functions flawlessly, faithfully carrying anything I throw in it.

Aesthetic

Because this wallet is almost a year old, we have had the opportunity to accurately observe just how much the patina changes in stages. The bifold was very stiff upon delivery, but at the two month mark obvious changes began to occur with the stiffness. After three more months, the texture of the wallet had changed entirely. The bifold had achieved a smooth, shiny patina, which made for an attractive, well-designed wallet. Over the next six months the wallet maintained that attractive patina and has aged wonderfully.

Conclusion

If you are in the market for a quality leather wallet but do not really want to drop a paycheck on one, check out the North Star Leather Company’s Small Bifold Wallet. I can truthfully say this wallet will last as long as you will, especially if you don’t mind some minor rough edges and are willing to take care of it. I have been very impressed with the North Star Leather Small Bifold, so head over to their website and check out all their reasonably priced, quality products.

April 11, 2016December 19, 2017

J. Ryan & Company The Minimalist Review – $100

While this wallet from J. Ryan and Company may be called The Minimalist, there’s nothing minimal about the eye-popping design and gorgeous combination of leathers that make up this refined card holder.

ABOUT J. RYAN & COMPANY

J. Ryan & Company, LLC is an Emmett, Idaho based company known for their custom exotic holster offerings, but more recently adding items such as belts, strops, and wallets. If you’re looking for a highly finished leather product, look no further. In contrast to the recently popular raw leather look, Jim and his company aim to bring you products that incorporate the best tans, dying, wax stuffing, and exotic leathers, custom made for the discerning individual.

CONSTRUCTION

Let’s break down the symmetrical leather sandwich that is The Minimalist. Note that J. Ryan & Co offer a variety of leathers, so while I’ll mention the specifics to this wallet, a different combination could be ordered to your own taste – in fact, we have a shark version in an upcoming review.

At the center, there’s a thin layer of elk – this is the highly textured leather visible at the back of the main storage pocket. On both sides of the elk is vegetable tanned horse side, which provides the wallet’s sturdy structure. The horse hide is visible around the edges on the inside of the main storage pocket and behind the single card pocket where J. Ryan’s logo is printed. Then, finally, and most visibly, the outermost layers on both sides are Chromexcel cowhide, finished in a rich burgundy.

These leather layers are machine stitched together with #277 bonded nylon thread, and thoroughly hand burnished all around the outer edge. The overall result is a card holder that is built like a tank, but maintains an elegant look.

FUNCTION

The Minimalist has two pockets for cards or cash, a single card holder and the main storage pocket. The main storage pocket is able to hold 5 cards very tightly, and 3 or 4 cards more comfortably.

All of the pockets are very secure; the single pocket is quite tight, and the storage area surrounds the sides of your cards with the horse hide layer, ensuring they can’t fall out. The single pocket was a bit too secure; sometimes the threads at the top prevented me from easily sliding a card out with my thumb. With the main storage, it’s simple to push back the top of the wallet a bit and pull out the card you need.

At ½” thick, this Minimalist is a bit more noticeable in my pocket than a typical card holder may be. However, if you’re wanting a true minimal wallet and don’t need to hold as many cards, J. Ryan is happy to custom make yours to a desired thickness.

AESTHETIC

The look of The Minimalist is striking. Many of my friends less familiar with leather hardly knew what they were looking at, but would slowly fall in love as they figured out how great the leather feels and how refined this wallet is.

Visible on the horsehide over the single card pocket is a stamp of J. Ryan’s logo, and it looks just as good as the wax seal on the box.

Chromexcel is a pull-up leather, hot-stuffed with waxes. It’s soft and feels great to the touch – it also scratches easily, but scratches can easily be rubbed out (using a little paste wax if needed), and add to the character anyway. The burgundy on the wallet is deep, rich and beautiful. My appreciation for the aesthetic of The Minimalist has only grown with time.

CONCLUSION

J. Ryan and Company’s The Minimalist card holder is a stunning combination of leathers, well constructed and finished to a high-class level of refinement. This sturdy wallet should withstand years of use and only get better with time. It’s a Buy It For Life product that you’re going to love more each time you use it.

April 8, 2016December 19, 2017

Sailormade Endeavor & Journey Leather Bracelet – $114

Sailormade is an accessories brand based in Boston, MA, focusing on high-quality marine inspired accessories for men and women. Their product line includes necklaces, belts, and bracelets, many of which feature nautical inspired hardware. Brand owner Bridget Harriss was attracted to nautical hardware because of its functionality as well as its classic appearance. Today we’ll be taking a look at the men’s Journey Leather Bracelet and the women’s Endeavor Leather Bracelet.

ABOUT THE BRUMMEL HOOK

Each Sailormade hook is made with a lost wax casting (also known as precision casting) method. The Brummel Hook is also known as the Inglefield Clip or the Sister Hook. Invented in the 1890s by Lieutenant Edward Inglefield, it was originally used on boats to quickly attach and raise signal flags for communication between ships. The clips can be quickly attached and detached, but only if the hooks are aligned just right – which can only be done by hand, not by wind or water. They are a quick, sturdy attachment, and stay securely fastened especially with tension on either side. Inglefield/Brummel Hooks were quickly adopted by the British Royal Navy, becoming the standard by 1895.

Sailormade Bracelet 4 — The “Seed” color has darkened up after 6 weeks of use

THE BRACELET

The Endeavor is made in New York City with Italian leather and a solid brass Brummel hook. The leather is carefully folded and braided so there are no rough edges. The bracelet is quite smooth and after 6 weeks of near-constant wear, there is no sign of the leather unraveling or unfolding. It has a double wrap fit, giving you two layers of braided leather. The brass Brummel hook is the star of the show, however, adding shine and visual interest. Ladies can even get a sparkly version, known as The Luster.

AESTHETIC

The Endeavor bracelet is a best-seller for a reason. They are understated yet stylish. I’ve had my eye on the nylon marine rope version for quite a while, without knowing that there was an Italian leather version. This bracelet is stylish enough to dress up or down, or be added to a wrist full of bangles without looking showy. My “seed” color is a light brown that’s very versatile, and darkens up slightly over time. The bracelet also comes in deep dark brown, midnight blue, and orange. The polished brass goes well with gold jewelry, and since my wedding ring is gold I find myself wearing this bracelet nearly every day.

The men’s Journey bracelet also has the brass hook with a matte finish, and comes in black, deep dark brown, midnight blue, and orange. For review I received the Deep Dark Brown color and absolutely love it. The dark, classic color goes well with my wardrobe of neutral and classic colors, which is perfect for men looking to add just a touch of class to their style. I wear the Journey bracelet all the time, whether I’m in short sleeves or long sleeves, it adds just enough flair to my style, and gets compliments regularly.

FIT

If you are like me and don’t like big, jangly jewelry, this is the bracelet for you. It lays quite flat around the wrist and doesn’t jiggle, make noise, or get caught on things. The Brummel hook takes a bit of getting used to, but for ladies it’s no harder than the average lobster claw or spring ring clasp on most bracelets. My wrist is a little over 6.5″ and the ladies’ medium fits me perfectly.

For men who aren’t used to clasps, you will definitely need some help the first few times around, but it’s easy to get the hang of. The men’s Journey bracelet is a men’s size large, and fits pretty snugly on a 7.25″ wrist. There’s a sizing chart at checkout, so do be sure to measure your wrist, as you want to ensure that your bracelet fits correctly.

CONCLUSION

The men’s Journey Leather Bracelet and the women’s Endeavor Leather Bracelet are beautiful, simple accessories. They’re not cheap, but you’ll find yourself wearing them often, if not nearly every day. We have both thoroughly enjoyed our bracelets. It’s a great addition to my jewelry collection and has become a staple in my mix-and-match accessories options.

April 8, 2016December 19, 2017

Kendal & Hyde Debut Kickstarter for Leather Sandals

Kendal & Hyde, Kickstarter extraordinaires, have launched another campaign, this time funded in less than ten minutes. This time around it’s handmade sandals, debuting in two styles, a flip flop and a two-strap slipper. The sandals are made by hand in Mexico, and for every sandal purchase, a similar pair is donated to a humanitarian school system in Rwanda.

“Last year we started making boots with soles made from upcycled used car tires. The idea to use upcycled tire rubber for the soles came from a pair of Mexican huarache sandals my father bought me when I was in high school. It was an almost painful process to source and make the tire soles, but the idea was so cool and unique we could not leave it alone until we did it. (You can now buy our Goodyear Welted boots with tire soles from kendalhyde.com.)
We got many requests from our boot customers to make a sandal for summer. Good idea. In true Kendal & Hyde Co. fashion, we set out to make a product that will last—introducing our Two Strap Slipper and Flip Flop sandals.
Our midsole is made with a sturdy 3mm thick piece of sole leather—the same material used in boots and leather-soled shoes. It’s strong and durable, but also has a beautiful, refined look when the edges are polished. We layer the sole leather with 5mm of cork that will compress as you wear your sandal, making an impression to match the shape of your foot, for a comfortable custom fit. On top of the cork we add a 2mm thick piece of neoprene for padding.
Our soles are cut from the sidewalls of used car tires, just like the pair of Mexican huarache sandals I had back in high school. Tire rubber is very strong—believe me, it’s crazy hard work cutting up all these tires and turning them into sandal soles. They are not going to wear out anytime soon. “

Right now you can get a pair for $90, expected to ship out at the end of this summer in several waves. If these sandals are built anywhere close to the sturdiness of Kendal & Hydes bags and boots, they will last you many, many summers.

April 8, 2016December 19, 2017

SOCIAL MEDIA CONTEST: Post a Pic of Your Thorogoods for a Chance to Win

Heads up to Thorogood Boot owners: You could win a pair of Thorogood Janesvilles from the 1892 Collection by posting a pic of your boots using the hashtag #ThorogoodsEverywhere or posting to Thorogood’s Facebook Page now through April 22nd.

IMG_9040-2-768x270 copy — Photo Via Grown & Sewn

From the Thorogood Instagram:

“In honor of Earth Day on April 22nd 1892 Wisconsin Collection by Thorogood will be giving you a chance to win a pair of Janesvilles. We want to see your boots out and about in the environment, among the trees, on the beach, or high on a mountain.
To enter submit a photo to 1892 Wisconsin Collection by Thorogood Facebook Page or post a picture Instagram with the hashtag #ThorogoodsEverywhere
Winner will be selected by a committee of Thorogood Shoes employee owners. All photos must be submitted by midnight on Earth Day, April 22, 2016. Winner is responsible for any and all shipping, taxes, and duties.
Get out there and take some photos! Have fun and good luck.”

April 7, 2016March 25, 2018

The Sandast Debbie Backpack – 17 Months Later

Francis Bacon said, “Age appears to be best in four things; old wood best to burn, old wine to drink, old friends to trust, and old authors to read.” He’s certainly spot on…but, I’d add one more element to the list and that is fine leather goods. Age is not an enemy to well made leather, but a welcomed ally who helps take what is beautiful when new to spectacular as it ages.

Back in September of 2014, I unboxed my first piece of Sandast’s leather goods. And, I’m extremely happy to say that since then I’ve added several more beautiful pieces, which will be reviewed here in the next few weeks. Since producing the initial review on the Debbie Backpack it has been a constant companion for my wife and has traveled many, many miles with her. It has accompanied her several times on travels throughout the Pacific Northwest, trips to New Jersey and Florida. And of course it has accompanied her locally on hundreds of occasions.

After consistent use in the past 17 months here are some highlights of the Debbie Backpack:

Plenty of storage
Plenty of pockets/pouches for organization
Ease of entry – this is a big deal for my wife. She pretty emphatic about her lack of interest in using buckles or lobster style clasps to get in and out of bags. She wants egress that’s quick and easy. Sandast delivers just that for her with the tuck lock closure on the main flap and the magnetic closures on the outside pockets.
Ease of carry and comfort. This may trump style and appearance for her at times. Ultimately, the Debbie Backpack meets these needs and scores big time on the aesthetic side of things too. While on a family reunion/vacation to Disney World in the fall of 2015 she carried this bag for miles and hours at a time traipsing through the Magic Kingdom, Epcot, Disney Springs, and Hollywood Studios. Naturally, it performed flawlessly for her and ne’er was a complaint ever mentioned.
It gets noticed. In spite of the hordes of people standing in line after line while at Disney multiple people commented and questioned her about the pack. The same holds true of flight attendants, TSA workers, and desk clerks at hotels…the Debbie pack garners attention.

The Debbie Backpack was beautiful right out of the box. But, I must say it’s looking much more awesome now. Time and use…these are great companions for quality leather goods. As mentioned in the initial review article, Sandast uses vegetable tanned leather from Horween. One of the great hallmarks of vegetable tanned leather is its ability to develop a patina unique to the user. Typically vegetable tanned leather darkens with use and develops a much deeper and more robust color. The Debbie Backpack has ‘matured’ nicely. The cognac color is a bit deeper and the grain of the leather, which was already beautiful, is just much more prevalent and takes center stage when you take time to truly examine the bag.

The interior plaid fabric is still in pristine condition and I expect it will stay that way for many years to come. The hardware on the backpack is aging equally well too. This is the benefit of utilizing true, high quality hardware. The Riri zipper, the French made buckles, the drawstring end caps, and the Italian made tuck lock all continue to perform flawlessly and maintain their classy appearance.

Sandast Gregory Update 5 — The Debbie in line at Magic Kingdom

As far as maintaining and caring for the leather, this is certainly not laborious. The Debbie Backpack has only had a couple of treatments with an all natural cleaner conditioner (props to DropForge Leather Care’s Leather Cream) and that’s it. Really, not much more is necessary. There are folks who will disagree – even companies who ascribe to the idea that you must “feed your leather” with their products. Perhaps that’s so with their particular bags…but, that would make me question the true quality of their leather’s tanning process if it dries out that easily.

Remember, one of the hallmarks of great vegetable tanned leather is the patina. Time and use are the way that is developed properly. To think your bag will maintain the “as new” look forever by applying copious amounts of conditioners, creams, oils, and the like is really misguided. Your great vegetable tanned leather bag is supposed to change with age. Let it. Yes, protect it – but don’t work feverishly on it in the fruitless attempt to keep it in “new” condition. “Live Your Legacy”, which is Sandast’s mantra, is exactly what I’m talking about here. Let your bag develop that legacy…it’s designed to do it. The cool part is the role you play in that legacy and what it becomes.

The Sandast Debbie Backpack is truly an outstanding product and as mentioned in the initial review, it’s well worthy of the Buy It For Life title. It’s worth every dollar. As you use it and appreciate it over time, you’ll never regret your decision to purchase it.

April 7, 2016December 19, 2017

Watch: Jim Crane Reviews Leather Built’s Bunyan Briefcase

Leather Built, based in Meridian, Idaho, is a collection of high-quality leather items made in the USA. They recently sent in The Bunyan Briefase for a video review by Jim Crane. The Bunyan Briefcase is made to Leather Built’s specifications by Coronado Leather in California using Horween’s Dublin Leather. The Bunyan Briefcase is priced at $649, but at this time is available for $595. Take a look at the video below to hear Jim’s take on this beautiful bag.

April 6, 2016December 19, 2017

THIRTEEN50 LEATHER WHISKEY TRAVELER WALLET REVIEW – $69

Pocket-sized notebooks have always been around, but recently more and more people seem to have these handy little things to whip out and quickly write something down. While some people have their phone do the job, I personally prefer writing it down. The Thirteen50 Leather Whiskey Traveler Wallet not only conveniently holds my Field Notes; it also functions as a wallet. This is the type of functionality I see so many people needing, and this high-quality item is sure to impress.

ABOUT THIRTEEN50 LEATHER

Thirteen50 Leather was founded after a successful Kickstarter campaign that concluded back in July of 2015. After beginning with belts, their impressively priced selection of leather goods has expanded to various wallets and accessories. The brands name is derived from the 13 stripes and 50 stars on the American flag, where all of their products are crafted and materials originate from.

CONSTRUCTION

The Whiskey Traveler is constructed out of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather. The leather is not your average cheapo, flimsy, mass-produced product you would find in a department store. This stuff is the real deal, and I was blown away at what you get for the price. The team at Thirteen50 Leather machine-stitch their wallets, and the end result is a quality item that encourages confidence that it will last a very long time, and look even better after use. The Traveler Wallet that I reviewed quickly started to darken and age making it an even more personal product.

FUNCTIONALITY

I personally really enjoy these types of wallets that function as a cover for my Field Notes, as well as being a true wallet, without being too bulky. I am a college student so I am always needing easy, quick access to what is in my wallet. This wallet definitely delivers, because of the ability to hold at least 4 cards initially, folded cash, and business cards. I found that it simplifies things quite a bit if you tend to have multiple wallets to carry all your stuff.

AESTHETIC

I love the simple look of this wallet. The Thriteen50 logo is neatly and subtly placed in the bottom-left corner inside along with uniform, contrasting white stitching to hold it all together. As mentioned above, the leather is a beautiful Whiskey color that darkens a bit over time as you use it, making the aesthetic even more pleasant to show off to your friends. And then they will probably buy one too because of the great price of this piece.

CONCLUSION

After several weeks of use, I can confidently say that the Thirteen50 Leather Whiskey Traveler Wallet is a steal for what you can get at this price for a product of this quality. Thirteen50 offers this wallet in Whiskey, Black, Natural, and Natural Horween Chromexcel. Don’t forget to check out the other quality products they offer on their website and keep up with all the action over on their Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

April 6, 2016December 19, 2017

Range Leather Debuts Travellr Bag and Razor Case

Range Leather, based in Spokane, WA, has announced its third Kickstarter campaign. This time around they are offering a dopp kit, a standard razor cover, and a safety razor cover. The standard razor cover fits nearly all brands of men’s and women’s standard disposable razors. The dopp kit, dubbed the Travellr, is 9.5″ x 6″ x 2.5″, making it a useful size for a travel dopp kit or makeup bag. The dopp kit and razor cases come in all brown, or a black and brown combo.

“Travellr’s story began while traveling, when I reached into my bag and sliced open my finger on the exposed blade of my razor. As a craftsman and leather worker, I responded by designing a razor case and travel bag so this would never happen again. Travellr is built in the US from full grain Horween leather called Buccaneer. This specific tannage has a water resistant finish and is the perfect material for the Travellr Kit. We craft each case by hand and assemble with copper rivets, premium brass hardware, genuine YKK zippers and durable thread. We are so confident in the construction of this bag- we are guaranteeing it for life.”

Although the Kickstarter was funded in less than two hours, you can still pick up a great dopp kit and razor case for 25-33% off retail price. We’ve been very impressed with some of Range Leather’s other products, like the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case, Range Mug, and Gannet Wallet. Check out the Kickstarter here!

March 31, 2016December 19, 2017

Anchor Leather Co. Custom Cast Bottle Opener Review – $20

Well, as the saying goes, ‘It’s 5 o’clock somewhere’ and this solid brass and leather bottle opener form Anchor Leather Co. is the perfect tool to use anytime of day and at any occasion.

The minimal design with signature engravings makes it an heirloom piece for sure. The design and engravings make a perfect gift or token for an avid rock climber and/or beer drinker.

Ethan Martin, the lad behind AnchorLeatherCo, hand makes all of his unique and customizable leather goods on his Etsy shop. From wallets to cases, accessories and even bags, Ethan has the eye for quality and detailed design.

Each product from Anchor Leather Co is made by hand in the USA, outside Charlotte, in the great state of North Carolina. The inspiration for Anchor Leather Co came from many childhood hours spent watching artisans craft objects by hand at Colonial Williamsburg, a historical park in the state of Virginia.

Construction

The materials selected were chosen for longevity. Silicon bronze was custom cast for the opener itself, and Horween Dublin leather is the strap material. The length of the opener, leather and all, is about 4 inches long.

Design

The 5O’clock Rescue8″ design was inspired by a piece of equipment used by high angle rescue teams and rock climbers, known as a figure eight descender, also called a spurless rescue eight. The real thing is used in rappelling to ease the lowering process into a manageable rope force. This version is used to ease into the end of the day or weekend by opening your favorite drink, so the concept and name was very fitting.

While this version of the figure eight descender is not made for rock climbing, it performs its other duty – bottle opening – like a charm. I can keep it on my keys or on a peg in my kitchen and it looks great even while it’s not in use.

Conclusion

The desire with this piece was to offer an affordable and long-wearing opener that would be a nod to the Anchor Leather Co. brand’s ‘get you there’ mentality. The 5 O’Clock Rescue8 will be your companion through many, many six-packs, and the price is right at $19.98. It has a clean design that was achieved with made in the USA components and craftsmanship. Cheers to that! Check it out on their Etsy store..

March 30, 2016November 27, 2021

Pad and Quill Roll Top Leather Backpack Review – $319

Who else remembers having a Jansport backpack or LL Bean backpack with their initials on it? That seemed to be the thing in high school, right? Well, now that I’m all grown up, I’m looking for something with a little more class and style — not to mention a slimmer and more chic design, so it doesn’t look like I’m carrying half of my body weight in it.

Well I’m happy to say that I found just that in the Roll Top Leather Backpack from Pad & Quill. It’s handsome yet rugged, minimal yet practical, and really will get the heads to turn (almost like in high school with those Grateful Dead bears or smiley face patches).

ABOUT PAD & QUILL

Kari and Brian, founders of Pad & Quill, are out to make their mark on the world of eCommerce. Instead of outsourcing their products to the lowest bidder, they have a strict code that they want all of their products to adhere to, which you can read about here. They have a 25-year warranty on their bags, showing their commitment to longevity. From their website:

“We think there are folks out there who have the same sense of awe as we do when they behold a beautiful thing. Who marvel at how a handful of seeds can become a majestic stand of Baltic Birch, that are then transformed, in artisan hands, into a gorgeous, organic product. There are friends who share our sense of adventure and love to have a bag they pull from their closet with 15 years of travel written upon it, and miles to go. Pad and Quill products will never resemble a trinket pulled from a fast food bag.”

Construction

The backpack is made from full-grain tumbled American bridle leather, hand-pounded copper rivets, parachute grade nylon stitching, sturdy zippers and solid nickel hardware. A small pocket on the exterior is about 5 x 7 inches and secures with single leather strap and nickel eye. The interior has a large open pocket that can hold up to a 15 inch laptop. There is also a smaller zippered compartment.

On one side of the backpack is a zippered access to the main bucket of the bag,

Their shoulder straps that are adjustable but not removable, along with a leather handle on top of the bag,

The dimensions of the bag are 12 inches wide x 16 inches length x 4.7 inches deep when closed, 25 inches long when unrolled. The bag weighs about 3 pounds empty.

Function

As a medium sized bag, this bag is ideal for a day trip and possibly a minimal weekend. Although deep, The width and depth of the bag restrict it from holding a ton of gear which, in my opinion, is not a bad thing. Simple yet elegantly designed bags are sometimes meant to carry simple and minimal things.

The shoulder adjustable shoulder straps are ideal for shorter and taller people. I am 6 feet tall and my girlfriend is 5 feet tall and the design and look work great for both of us. Of course, Veronica will always say it works better for her!

Aesthetic

The quality of this bag is top of the line and very durable. Out of the box, the tumbled leather has a nice broken-in and subtle flexibility to it which is nice since full grain leather takes serious time to break in! Again, the size is great for weekend/overnight travel and the bare necessities.

Being a tall guy, at first I thought the bag to look a little too small for my frame and suiting more to a shorter man or woman. However, I reminded myself that this bag is not a big, burly hiking or work bag but more of an everyday essentials bag. It fits 15″ laptops comfortably and can carry around work or school materials with ease.

One thing I disliked was the the body of the bag being a tad bit narrow and long, making it difficult to take things in and out. Although the side zipper is extremely helpful and aesthetically pleasing, it could be a hair longer to easier remove larger books or articles. But this is the only thing I would change and like anything, I will adapt to this over time where I will adjust to the bag rather than the other way around.

Conclusion

The Pad & Quill Roll Top Leather Backpack is an ideal companion for many occasions, including walks around the city, walks around the park, overnight trips or even as an everyday carry bag. I honestly can’t wait to see how this bad boy ages and wears in! At the price of a little bit above $300 I feel you are getting a good value for a handmade piece of such craftsmanship, design and detail.

Larger or taller men should definitely consider the size and use for this bag as it does not lend to hauling a large cargo. But, in my case, it’s a great thing to downsize the amount of stuff I take with me on a given excursion. In addition, the minimal size and classic color will lend great to any attire, casual or business. Check it out here.

March 25, 2016June 1, 2022

A Comprehensive List of American-Made Footwear

There are many reasons to buy American-made – from creating jobs to reducing your carbon footprint to enjoying safer, higher-quality products. We’ve compiled a list of footwear brands that are manufactured right here in the US of A. Several of the companies below do not manufacture their entire product lines in the U.S., but we’ve linked to their American-made lines.

Alden – Men’s dress and casual shoes made in Middleborough, Massachusetts.

Allen Edmonds – Men’s dress and casual shoes made in Port Washington, Wisconsin.

Anbu Safety – one professional leather safety shoes manufacturer and supplier, mainly produce leather work shoes and work boots.

Aurora Shoe Company – Men’s and women’s casual shoes made in Aurora, New York.

Bates Footwear – Men’s and women’s military and uniform shoes and boots. Select styles made in Big Rapids, Michigan.

Beck – Men’s and women’s cowboy and work boots. Made in Amarillo, Texas.

Belleville Boot – Men’s and women’s military and law enforcement boots and shoes. Made in Arkansas.

Broken Homme – Men’s casual boots and shoes, made in Los Angeles, California.

Brooklyn Boot Company – Men’s casual boots and shoes, made in Martinsburg, Pennsylvania.

Chippewa – Men’s and women’s casual and work boots, made in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin.

Cobra Rock – Men’s and women’s casual boots, made in Marfa, Texas.

Cord Boots & Shoes – Men’s and women’s shoes and boots made in Atlanta, Georgia.

Cordoba – Men’s and women’s sandals handmade in Lebanon, Ohio.

Crary Shoes – Men’s and women’s boots and shoes, custom made in Portland. Oregon.

Danner – Men’s and women’s work and outdoor boots, made in Portland, Oregon.

Double H Boots – Men’s and women’s western boots. Select styles made in Martinsburg, PA.

Eastland – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoe, made in Freeport, Maine.

Frye – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoes, made in Marlboro, Massachusetts.

G.H. Bass – Men’s and women’s casual and dress shoes, made in Wilton, Maine.

Helm – Men’s and women’s casual boots, made in Maine and Arkansas.

Johansen – Men’s and women’s casual and dress shoes made in Gretna, Virginia.

Johnston & Murphy – Men’s and women’s dress and casual shoes. Select models made in Nashville, Tennessee.

Justin Boots – Men’s and women’s western boots. Select styles made in Spanish Fort, Texas.

Julian Boots – Men’s casual boots, made in Los Angeles, California.

Keen – Men’s and women’s work, casual, and outdoor shoes. Select styles made in Portland, Oregon.

LL Bean – Men’s and women’s casual and outdoor boots and shoes. Select boot models made in Freeport, Maine.

Luchesse – Men’s and women’s western boots, made in El Paso, Texas.

Hoffman’s – Men’s work boots made in Kellogg, Idaho.

Mara and Mine – Men’s and women’s casual shoes, made in California.

Munro – Women’s casual shoes and sandals made in Clarksville, Arkansas.

New England Outerwear Company – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoes made in Rockport, Massachusetts.

Nicks Boots – Men’s work and casual boots manufactured and custom made in Spokane, Washington.

Oakstreet Bootmakers – Men’s casual boots and shoes made in Chicago, Illinois.

Onex Shoes – Women’s casual shoes made in Southern California.

PS Kaufman – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoes, made in Los Angeles, California.

Ranch Road – Men’s and women’s western and casual boots. Select styles made in Texas.

Rancourt & Co. – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoes made in Lewiston, Maine.

Red Wing – Men’s work and casual boots and shoes, made in Red Wing, Minnesota.

Rider Boots – Men’s casual and dress shoes and boots, made in Richmond, Virginia.

Rios of Mercedes – Western boots made in Mercedes, Texas.

Russell Moccasin – Men’s casual and outdoor boots and shoes, made in Berlin, Wisconsin.

San Antonio Shoes – Men’s and women’s work and casual shoes made in San Antonio, Texas.

Sbicca – Women’s casual boots and shoes, made in Los Angeles, California.

Schnee’s – Men’s outdoor boots made in Bozeman, Montana.

Sofft – Women’s casual boots and shoes, made in Pennsylvania.

The Brothers Crisp – Men’s casual boots and shoes, made in Hartford, Connecticut.

Thorogood – Also known as Weinbrenner Shoe Company. Men’s work and casual boots. Made in Merill, Wisconsin

Tony Lama – Men’s and women’s western boots. Select styles made in Texas.

Truman Boot Co. – Men’s casual boots made in Northeast Pennsylvania.

Walkover – Men’s and women’s casual boots and shoes, made in Pennsylvania.

Wesco – Men’s and women’s work and casual boots, manufactured and custom made in Scappoose, Oregon.

White’s Boots – Men’s work and casual boots, made in Spokane, Washington.

Wolverine – Men’s and women’s work and casual boots, made in Big Rapids, Michigan.

Yuketen – Men’s dress and casual boots and shoes. Select styles made in Los Angeles, California.

Zuriick – Men’s casual boots made in Spokane, Washington.

*Did we miss someone? Please contact us or leave a comment below and let us know.

March 24, 2016December 19, 2017

Russell Moccasin “TLC” Toe – Lace Hunter Custom Boot Review – $527-$655

When most folks hear me say, “I’m from Idaho”, the first image that they always seem to conjure up is potato fields, french fries, and tater tots. Well, alas folks, I’m here to tell you that Idaho is much more than just a spud field – especially North Idaho (yes, I also know that most people feel the urge correct me and say, “it’s Northern Idaho”…but, we say North Idaho here). We’re surrounded by mountains, forests, rivers, apex predators, and game of all kinds. Most of us who live here fondly refer to it as “God’s Country”. It’s simply gorgeous and just about every outdoor activity you can possibly partake of happens here, including hunting of all kinds. When we were introduced to the opportunity to review a pair of custom hunting boots from Russell Moccasin, we jumped at the chance!

ABOUT RUSSELL MOCCASIN

Like many Midwest shoemakers, Russell Moccasin began in the 1890s in Wisconsin during the booming logging days. W.C. Russell’s hand sewn boots quickly became sought after by locals, and was eventually purchased by former employee Bill Gustin in 1924. Gustin was an avid hunter and fisherman and expanded the product line for outdoorsmen, as well as offering a line of casual shoes and oxfords in the 1930s. The business is now led by Gustin’s son-in-law, Ralph Fabricius, who has preserved Gustin’s vision of hand-lasted and hand-sewn footwear for the outdoorsman.

CONSTRUCTION

The TLC Boot is fully handmade and handlasted. Everything about this boot is thought through for the outdoors. It uses full-grain waterproofed leather, and comes fully leather lined. The TLC Boot actually has a triple vamp construction, meaning there are three layers of leather surrounding your foot. Needless to say, this boot is insanely waterproof.

The boot is constructed so that the counter (side panel) is extra long, and is very, very thick. This gives the boot extra ankle stability for rough terrain, and the cushioned collar helps keep the boot comfortable against the lower calf. The laces come about midway to the toe, giving you good control over the tightness of the laces on the foot.

The TLC Boot is highly customizable, with options for everything from the leather color (the TLC Boot comes in five color options: Black, Reddish Brown, Tan, Chocolate, and Green) to the type of sole. You can choose how much insulation you want (and whether you want it on the whole boot or just the foot). You can add extra cushioning in the sole, or a reinforced toe cap for rough/rocky terrain. The boots come standard with a very hefty Claw Airbob sole, but you may also choose from several other Vibram soles, all of which are slightly heavier. An in-depth explanation of all of Russell’s custom options can be found here. They are extremely happy to work with customers to create their perfect boot, so don’t be afraid to ask questions.

To order the TLC Boot, you have to send in pretty involved measurements of your feet.The process for tracing and measuring to have a pair of boots made is interesting and time consuming. But, the end result is well worth the modest amount of time you’ll spend providing the necessary information for your boots. You can even send photos if you have any irregularities (bunions, differently sized feet, etc.) and they will accommodate you. Your foot measurements will stay on file at Russell for 10 years in case you order a new pair or need repairs. And, I’m sure some of the thinking there is they are confident that once you order one pair of boots, you’ll find another reason to order some shoes or a different pair of boots. If you have particularly wide or narrow feet, you can even order your own last for a fee. All of this just goes to show just how much Russell wants to ensure that your boots fit you and your lifestyle perfectly.

AESTHETIC & FUNCTION

The TLC Boot is surprisingly attractive for such a functional piece of footwear. The tread is rather chunky, but I’m not afraid to wear these around town here in addition to hunting deer or elk up in the mountains. They’re easy to slip on thanks to a hearty finger loop on the back of the boot and lacing them is a quick, simple task. The footbed is extremely comfortable making them an easy choice for all day wear in rugged terrain. This past winter was a very wet, cold one here. I was consistently comfortable wearing these boots with just a medium weight sock thanks to the 200 gram Thinsulate that lined these boots. And, never once were my feet wet, in spite of trudging through snow all day. Up until this last season, I wore the same pair of hunting boots from another reputable company (at least 7 years straight). However, this year I consistently chose the TLC boots from Russell Moccasin. They’re super comfortable, look great, and keep my feet in great shape – even after miles of hiking.

CONCLUSION

The Russell Moccasin TLC Toe-Lace Hunter Boots are very impressive. These boots are definitely an investment, but I’m positive that these will last me a lifetime, as they can be resoled and repaired at the factory. Russell’s measurement and customization process was spot on. My boots are a perfect fit for me. These are a purpose built boot primarily geared at the serious outdoorsman. So, if you’re looking to upgrade boots to something that will swaddle your feet in style and comfort, I’d highly recommend you visit the Russell Moccasin website and check out their line of excellent footwear.

March 23, 2016December 19, 2017

Colonel Littleton No. 16 Document Case Review – $482.50

I’m always a fan of simplicity…with a touch of uniqueness. It seems to me that the designs from Colonel Littleton combine those elements well. Purpose built products with a bit of flair and a touch of “yesteryear” to them. It’s always a pleasure when we get the opportunity to feature one of their products here at BestLeather. Today we’ll be taking a look at the No. 16 Document Bag with Strap, a thin document case with an adjustable shoulder carry strap.

ABOUT COLONEL LITTLETON

Colonel Littleton is a small operation out of Lynnville, a Tennessee town about an hour south of Nashville, home to a whopping 327 residents. The Colonel started out by selling vintage cufflinks in 1987, which sparked an interest in creating unique, heirloom items. Now, 28 years later, Colonel Littleton makes bags, belts, hats, wallets, knives, cologne, and more, all with a unique Tennessee flair. Colonel Littleton has amassed a pretty dedicated following over the years, in part because their products have a unique, nostalgic feel, but also because their products have proved to be extremely well-crafted. Over the past two years, we’ve reviewed quite a few Colonel Littleton items and found them all to be top-notch. You can read the archives of our Colonel Littleton reviews here. You can also watch a short video about the Colonel Littleton story here.

CONSTRUCTION

This document case is made with Colonel Littleton’s dry-milled full-grain American leather, which is always very soft and flexible. The bag is around 12”H x 17”W x just 1.5″ deep, making it quite thin but leaving plenty of room for legal and standard sized documents. While not made as a laptop bag, you could feasibly fit a MacBook Air or similarly thin laptop or tablet in a pinch. The inside of the bag is unlined, leaving a soft grain on the inside. Expect a few little pieces to come off at the beginning until the grain smooths down a bit with use.

FUNCTION

The bag is closed with two solid brass snaps, attached to leather straps that circle the entire bag. There are two snaps on each strap, allowing for some expansion to the bag when you need to load it up a bit more than usual. There is a copper metal tube (common to many Colonel Littleton bag designs) that runs across the back of the bag. The leather padded handle and shoulder straps are attached to the tube, which is held onto the bag with brass rivets. This gives the bag a strong backbone and helps keep the bag flat when storing documents.

The shoulder strap is adjustable from 34.5 inches to 42.5 inches, and can be removed via brass pegs if needed. Colonel Littleton offers a strapless version of the No. 16 Document Bag if you feel you don’t need a strap. However, the strapless version doesn’t have the copper tube or carry handle, though it is $200 cheaper.

For me, this is a great bag to use for local meetings and outings. It’s easy to grab this bag, drop my laptop in, throw my journal, notes, earbuds, and a couple of pens into it and take off. To date, that has been the primary role of this bag. It’s ideal when I don’t need to carry a full mobile office with me. I don’t foresee myself carrying this bag on multi-day business trips. In my opinion, it’s simply not designed for that purpose. My No. 40 Campaign Bag is a much better choice for those occasions.

A side note – my No. 16 Document Bag came with one of the Colonel’s full size No. 18 Portfolio legal pads in it. I’m forever changed on my choice of legal pads now. You can get 3 of them for only $13.50, which I consider to be a great deal.

AESTHETIC

The No. 16 Document Bag is very eye-catching, and has that nostalgic flair that Colonel Littleton has mastered in their product line. This bag is the Saddle Tan color, but it also comes in brown and black with brown trim. This is a document case, so it lays quite flat against the body. So far it’s functioned perfectly in meetings, and makes a very good first impression. As with most Colonel Littleton products, you can have your initials engraved on the metal plate for a small fee of $9.

Expect to get stopped frequently when carrying this bag. It always catches people’s eyes and incites questions. I’ve even had a couple of folks ask if they could touch it and hold it while I was working from one of my favorite local coffeehouses (shout out to Strada Caffe’ of Coeur d’Alene!).

CONCLUSION

The No. 16 Document Bag with Strap is yet another impressive product from Colonel Littleton. If you’re looking for a simple document case for meetings, this is an excellent choice that will serve you well and certainly get noticed wherever you go. It’s a pleasure to carry. It’s easy to use and access. The leather is superior and will age well with time and use. In the months that I’ve had my Document Bag, it has already started to darken a bit. It’s definitely a Buy It For Life item that you’ll appreciate the entire time you use it. Then, when you’re done you can pass it on to the next generation.

March 22, 2016December 19, 2017

Deceptively Simple Minimal Thin Leather Wallets – $45 & $50

Living a simple life is a hard thing to accomplish these days. Our world is always running at a million miles an hour, and all we can do is try and keep up. I like to slow down and simplify my life as often as I can. Whether that is taking the long way home on my motorcycle and kicking my phone to the curb (not literally, of course!), or slimming down my ever-growing personal property, it is a goal I strive for often these days. I have found that carrying the bare necessities with me at all times helps me fulfill my simpler lifestyle, and the Deceptively Simple Minimal Wallet has been a great product to get the job done.

About

Deceptively Simple, an Etsy store based in Los Angeles, California, lives up to its name in every way. With only one wallet (in two sizes) in its product line, this one-man operation strives to do things simply and efficiently. Each wallet is handmade in Los Angeles, California.

“I’m an architectural designer in Los Angeles who also enjoys designing products. My goal is to create items with clean lines, orthogonal shapes and simplicity. As I’ve learned through years of architectural work, simple things are always harder to achieve. I’m always trying new designs and will be adding more pieces soon.”

CONSTRUCTION & FUNCTION

The wallets are hand-stitched using vegetable-tanned harness leather in a natural color. This leather is very sturdy and stiff, so it requires a bit of time to soften and gain a patina. As always, natural veg-tanned leather picks up a nice patina around the edges. The edges are already quite dark from the laser-cutting, but with use, the wallet becomes more uniform color.

Both wallets are 100mm x75mm or 3 7/8″ X 2 7/8″, just slightly larger than a credit card. The wallet comes in two sizes: thin and thick. The thin wallet is 5mm (3/16″) and the thick wallet is 7.5mm (9/32″). The thin wallet holds three credit cards without bowing, and the thick wallet holds about five cards without bowing. Both wallets could feasibly fit double the amount, but the wallet would look distorted and the leather would need some extra time to form around the cards.

Many super-thin wallets make it hard to slide the cards in and out, especially at first, when the leather is still quite stiff. However, the Deceptively Simple wallets have small laser-cut windows on both sides that help you grip the cards with your thumbs, making them easy to access.

After several months of use, the wallets have held up very well and gained a very nice patina. The stitching is still perfect and the leather has molded to the cards and holds them snugly. I have been able to comfortably hold 7 or 8 cards in the thicker wallet without any issue.

Here is the thick wallet after about three months of use. It’s softened considerably and is developing a nice patina.

AESTHETIC

The Deceptively Simple Wallets are pretty unique in appearance. With dark, squared edges and contrasting stitching, these wallets stand out without looking the least bit gaudy. The thick laser edges may not be for everyone, but I’m personally a fan of the way the blocky edges look, and they’ve held up well after months of wear.

The company’s logo is placed near the bottom corner, two dots in a thin rectangle. This adds even more geometric interest to the wallet. The clean lines, natural colors, and functional shape make for a solid wallet from this small operation.

CONCLUSION

The word minimalist is thrown around pretty loosely these days, but these wallets truly earn the term. If you often carry more than five cards, or like a more traditional looking wallet, this may not be for you. But if you like to carry just a few cards, even on occasion, these wallets function perfectly. They also function well as sleek business card holders that are sure to impress. So set aside that giant clunker of a wallet you have and opt for something simpler. The Deceptively Simple Minimalist Wallet is a well-priced option as a leather wallet.

UPDATE: Viro is now taking orders for the wallet to be crafted in Horween’s CHROMEXCEL for an additional $15. This sounds like a great option and should produce a very, very nice version of this wallet!

March 17, 2016December 19, 2017

First Impressions: Jaunji Designs Uptown Jacket in Lambskin

Jaunji Designs has announced a new line of men’s and women’s jackets made with lamb, goat, or natural grain cow leather via a new Kickstarter campaign, which we reported on a few weeks ago. They quickly met and exceeded their goal, but jackets are still available for preorder. We were able to get our hands on a sample jacket in the Uptown style, a high collared jacket with a classic fit.

The Uptown jacket has snap cuffs, two zip chest pockets, two side pockets, and two interior pockets, one of which is zippered. This jacket is made with lambskin in a light cognac color with a subtle distressed finish. It also features a herringbone lining which is soft to the touch, but durable.

For men, the jackets come in four styles: Moto, Cafe Racer, Bomber, and Uptown, a simple high-collared design. Ladies’ jackets also come in two styles: Uptown, and a moto style with an asymmetrical zip.

The construction of the Uptown jacket is solid. Seams are even and the hardware appears to be well made too. The leather is soft to the touch and has a pleasant aroma to it. Lambskin is not super thick, but still retains great strength and durability.

What’s especially nice about the Jaunji Uptown jacket is the weight. It’s a great option for spring, early fall and those days when the weather just calls for a lighter weight jacket. The lack of bulk is definitely noticeable and appreciated. The cognac color is aesthetically pleasing and along with the style of the jacket lends itself well to business casual attire or simple casual daily wear.

The jackets come lined with standard viscose lining, but can be upgraded to a herringbone wool.The herringbone lining gives the jacket a bit more of an upscale look – this is just our opinion especially since we haven’t seen the standard version in person.

The cool thing about these jackets is that they are custom-fit, to measurements you send in upon purchase. So there’s not a back stock of pre-made jackets, they are made specific to your measurements and leather choice.

Verdict

Overall, our test jacket has been well received in public. People enjoy the feel of the leather and comment positively on the style and color. We can easily see why Jaunji met their original Kickstarter goal in less than 8 hours. There are still spots available on their Kickstarter to get the jacket style of your choice with standard lining and choice of color for $369, which is about $200 off expected retail price. Couples can pledge $669 for two jackets of their choice. This is a good deal for a high quality, custom-fit jacket made to your specifications. We look forward to seeing how things progress for Jaunji with this project and designs that are launched from them in the future.

March 16, 2016June 24, 2020

Election 2016: Who Gets the Next Presidential Johnston & Murphy Shoes?

If you are familiar with footwear brand Johnston & Murphy, you probably know that the brand has been responsible for providing footwear to every president since Millard Fillmore in 1850. Most recently, they provided President Obama with a pair of black oxfords and an updated version of President Lincoln’s lace-up boots.

Now, with election season in full swing, we’re asking the important questions: who gets the next pair of presidential Johnston & Murphy shoes? There’s a chance America may have its first woman president. This video from CNN Money discusses this possibility with J&M’s CEO Jon Caplan, and explains a bit about Johnston & Murphy’s presidential tradition. Check out J&M’s history page to see some more presidential styles throughout history.

March 15, 2016December 19, 2017

Measuring the Thickness of Leather

In our reviews, we often talk about the thickness of leather. The thickness of a piece of leather affects its durability and flexibility, meaning it’s important for the informed consumer to have a general idea of leather thickness is and what types of products each range is used for. There are several ways to measure the thickness of leather, which we will explain below.

The Ounce
We most frequently refer to the thickness of leather in terms of “ounces.” This can be confusing because the term actually refers to a linear measurement as opposed to weight. In the leather industry, an ounce is 1/64 of an inch. So, if you have a piece of leather that is 8 ounces, it’s 8/64 of an inch. An easy reference point is to remember that a U.S. quarter is 4 ounces in thickness.

Hides can be through a splitting machine that can skive a piece of leather down to the desired measurement. But each animal is different and a hide can vary in thickness, so most of the time you’ll see each measurement presented as a range, such as 6-7 oz. The image below, from the Tandy Leather Buying Guide, shows a conversion chart between ounces, irons, inches, and millimeters, as well as a visual representation of the measurement.

The Iron
The Iron is an old, but still occasionally used standard for measuring the thickness of leather. It is most often seen in shoe manufacturing, especially in the UK, although the millimeter is a much more common measurement now. There are 48 irons in an inch, so each iron is a little larger than an ounce.

What are different thicknesses used for?

Shoes
An average leather outsole on a shoe is around 12oz (9 irons) thick. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, and the lining is about 1oz.

Of course, these thicknesses often vary with the type of shoe, type of welt, and type of leather used. Italian dress shoes are usually sleeker and thus use thinner leather in the soles and uppers. Blake stitched or bonded soles don’t require a thick insole like Goodyear welted shoes.

Bags
Bags are generally crafted from medium weight leather, and can be anywhere from 3-7 ounces, depending the desired weight and durability. Many bags are lined with pigskin or another thin layer of leather, which usually measures in at around 2 ounces.

Belts
The standard weight for a sturdy men’s belt is 7-8 ounces.

Wallets and Accessories
Most wallets, notebook covers, and billfolds are made with leather that is 2-4 oz. Heavy accessories like knife sheaths, hard sided cases, and holsters are in the 7-9 oz range.