Victor, Author at BestLeather.org

April 4, 2014December 19, 2017

Gfeller Casemakers IPhone 5 Holster Review – $55

Gfeller Casemakers is a custom maker of high quality leather goods. They began crafting leather tool bags and holsters in the 1940s, as a response to a burgeoning need for the geoscience community. In more recent years, they have broadened their product line to notebook covers, general use bags, phone cases, and they also do custom leather work for various high-end companies. For more information on Gfeller Casemakers as a company, you can read our visit to their shop article here. We had an opportunity recently to use and test their IPhone 5 holster, which they custom made for this review.

FUNCTION

Most leather IPhone cases on the market these days are classic soft shell sleeves, where you slide your phone in, stash it in your pocket, and then pull it out when you need it. The Gfeller Casemakers IPhone holster is unique in that it is a hardshell holster, one that you can clip onto your belt for easy access. I like this because it allows you to keep your beautiful IPhone naked, when you are using it, but well protected and easily accessible, when you are not. The phone slides easily in and out of the holster, a testament to a precision crafted, handmade item. The clip is very sturdy, and I never felt like the holster would come off my belt accidentally.

One consideration in deciding to purchase a case like this is whether you like having your phone unprotected while in use. My previous case was on my phone 24/7, giving my IPhone continuous protection. You will not get that from the Gfeller IPhone holster, so that is one thing to be aware of when considering a case of this type. If you need your phone to be constantly protected, then another case would be necessary. The flip side of that coin is that you get to use the phone in the form it was originally intended.

The hard shell aspect of the holster is reminiscent of a formed knife sheath, or formed gun holster, where your knife or gun fits perfectly into their respective sheath. This type of case is perfect for individuals in a number of trades (construction workers, carpenters, plumbers, masons, etc.), where both solid protection and quick access is important. Another indication of a well thought out product is a thin piece of leather on the inside of the holster, which protects your phone from the metal of the belt clip. Your phone will appreciate this too, so as to avoid scratching and marring. Though the phone does slide easily in and out, the fit is fairly snug, so at times I had to make sure I had a firm grip on the phone as I was putting it back in the case, so as to avoid accidentally dropping it. As is the case with most quality leather, the leather will stretch a bit over time, making the fit a little easier.

The holster we used for this review has a vertical orientation, you slide the phone in bottom side down. Gfeller’s typical IPhone cases are horizontal, you lay them in long side down. The advantage to a horizontal orientation is that the holster runs parallel with your belt and therefore does not protrude into your side when sitting down. Personally, I like the vertical case as it is more natural to pull it out and use it in the same direction as it comes out. Of course, this is a completely personal preference; either orientation will serve the purpose well. The good thing is that you could get yours either way.

LEATHER

Gfeller uses leather from the Hermann Oak Leather Company for their IPhone 5 Holster, as well as for the majority of their products. This holster is made from eight to nine ounce, vegetable tanned leather. In particular, the type of leather is natural russet skirting. This is a super durable type of leather, that when wet allows you to form the leather to various shapes (hence the formed, hardshell case). When dried, the result is a hardened case.

The holster that we reviewed is a natural, light brown color. Gfeller does offer customers the option of choosing a black holster for an additional $5. The natural color is great because it develops a beautiful patina over time and use, giving the leather additional character.

STITCHING

The white stitching against the light colored leather is a beautiful combination. Gfeller uses five cord (the higher the number, the thicker the thread) natural linen for the stitching on their IPhone holsters. They lubricate the linen thread with Sellari’s Natural Stitching Wax, for ease of stitching. This stitching also acts as an adhesive when dry, which further bonds the pieces of leather together.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Admittedly at BestLeather, we prefer goods to be made out of leather when possible and feasible. When considering an IPhone case, many of us prefer a sturdy, hand made, beautiful holster like the one from Gfeller Casemakers than one made out of plastic (machine made) that will eventually break. At $55, the cost of this case is comparable to what you get for such hardshell, plastic cases, but it is infinitely more beautiful and special. It will stand the test of time and will probably outlast the phone itself, after which you could use it to hold business cards or some small tool.

If you are in the market for a beautiful sheath for your IPhone 5, then Gfeller Casemaker’s IPhone 5 holster is an excellent choice.

April 3, 2014December 19, 2017

Moore & Giles Brennan Rucksack Review – $515

Moore & Giles is a leather manufacturer based in Forest, Virginia. They produce fine leather for the high-end hospitality industry, high-end furniture industry, and the commercial and residential interior design market. They have been producing leather since 1933 and have established relationships with many retailers across the United States and select international countries.

(We recently posted a video produced by Moore & Giles showing how their leather is made. It is a fantastic video and is worth re-posting here.)

With its prime business in producing excellent leather for several industries, it was just a matter of time before Moore & Giles began manufacturing their own leather bags and goods. One interesting aspect of all of Moore & Giles leather goods is that each product is named after someone from the company. With names like the Donald, Benedict, Graeme and Taylor, it makes one want to apply for a job with the hopes of some fine luxury good sharing your name. With a line of high-end wallets, handbags, briefcases, dopp kits and other goods, Moore & Giles is making a name for itself in the high-end leather goods business as well.

We recently had the opportunity of reviewing the Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles. Rucksacks are of German origin and are essentially a smaller version of a backpack, meant to be worn over your shoulder. Similarly, the Brennan Rucksack has a single strap for that purpose, or a handle used for carrying with one hand.

FUNCTION

When discussing the Brennan Rucksack with Moore & Giles head designer, Thomas Brennan (the Rucksack’s namesake), he indicated that the Brennan is the go to bag for Moore & Giles’ President and Vice-President, and is used by half of the staff at their Italian Tannery. With that type of adoption from the company’s own, there must be something special about this rucksack. It really is pretty simple. The rucksack is made to be compact, is durable and functional, and the leather is beautiful.

The rucksack has a single exterior zipper that stretches from one side, over the top, to the other side. This zipper is a #5 Excella 2-way zipper by YKK. The YKK Group is known to produce some of the finest zippers available. Open the zipper completely and you have easy access to the entire contents of the bag.

The inside of the bag has a main compartment with a small pocket for your cell phone, as well as three pen sleeves. It has a zipped pocket for various items, as well as a separate compartment, for a 13” laptop or an IPad, which is padded for support and protection. My 13″ Macbook Air fit perfectly, but a larger 13″ laptop may be a very tight squeeze. The rucksack also has an exterior pouch that can stash a magazine or folded over newspaper, perfect for easy access.

Part of the advantage of the rucksack could also be a drawback– the size. It is meant to be a more compact version of a backpack, which it is. That means you cannot stuff if with a lot of gear, and the largest laptop it fits is 13”. If you need a lot of room for all your books or gear, or have a bigger computer, you would be better off with one of Moore & Giles’ messenger bags or briefcases. The bag works well for me though. I’m able to fit my Macbook Air, notebook cover from Saddleback Leather, journal, and other items without a problem.

LEATHER

With a huge variety of leather to choose from for this bag, Moore & Giles went with their Titan Milled leather. A description from Moore & Giles website indicates that “these natural leathers are produced on the finest hides available, then processed with pure water straight from the Italian alps. An innovative hot wax tannage technique highlights the natural tones and rich colors of this leather that will only be enhanced over time in both feel and appearance”. Then, the leather undergoes a natural milling process which provides a worn, pebbled appearance. At first, I thought the leather was embossed, but the milling process itself actually shrinks the hide and pulls out the pebbled appearance. The result is impressive. The bag has a supple feel, but feels very sturdy at the same time.

All of Moore & Giles leathers are either full grain or top-grain (top-grain leather is “corrected” in some way, usually sanded to eliminate imperfections, while full grain leather is not corrected). The Brennan Rucksack is of the full grain variety, which has the tightest grain possible. The vast majority of Moore & Giles leathers are around 1.2 mm thick (three ounces). The Brennan is no exception, being made from three to three and a half ounce leather. For leather novices, leather thickness is typically defined in ounces. If a one square foot piece of leather weighs three ounces, then it is three ounce leather. The thicker the leather is, the heavier the leather will be; therefore, thicker leather is always associated with a higher number of ounces.

The Titan Milled leather is both vegetable and chrome tanned, in a one hundred and fifty year old Italian tannery, with old world techniques. The leather is folder over on most of the edges of the bag, which provides for a soft feel. The zipper pull leather edges are actually burnished, which is a nice touch for such a small detail. The leather is also “struck through,” which means it has been drum dyed until the dyes soak all of the way through the leather. This is a time consuming process, requiring much more time than normal in the large dye drums, that only the finest leathers undergo.

LINING

The lining for the Brennan is a custom jacquard, which Moore & Giles has custom made for them in Italy. A jacquard is an intricate weave, named after the French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard, and allows for complex woven-in designs, such as the company’s logo. The lining feels very durable and appears to be of the variety which allows for easy cleanup if you happen to drip your morning coffee into it while reaching for the paper.

THREAD AND HARDWARE

Moore & Giles uses cast zinc hardware for the three D rings on the bag, as well as for the strap clips. They have an antique brass finish, which pairs well with the dark brown leather.

The Brennan is also sewn with dark brown, size 92 polyester thread. Polyester thread is significantly stronger than cotton thread and much more so than even tough nylon. It is the same type of thread used for making sails and parachutes. It is the type of thread you want your bag to be held together by.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles is crafted from leather that is durable and beautiful, and the bag is constructed very well. It is produced by a company with a long history of producing some of the finest leathers and leather goods made. It is a classy alternative to a backpack and a bag you would be proud of owning.

April 2, 2014December 19, 2017

A Review of the Forest Heights Piedmont Boot from Danner – $285

Portland, Oregon is a hub for all that is cool. As Fred Armisen would say, “The dream of the 90s is alive in Portland.” People wear flannel shirts, tights jeans, big glasses, gauges, the lot. It is a timeless casually classy look. Leather is everywhere you look — Leather wallets, leather pants, leather jackets, leather iPhone cases, leather bags, leather, leather, leather, leather, and, finally, more leather. The most prominent of all of these trades are boots — Portland is a leather boot city. And that is where Danner comes in.

I have been wearing the Forest Heights Piedmont boots from Danner for about a month now and I am thoroughly impressed. A few weeks ago, I wrote an article on Danner and an article on my first impressions of these boots. If you want more information on the company or on my first impressions, please check them out!

construction

The Forest Heights Piedmont Boots, named after the west hills of Portland, are handbuilt in Danner’s Portland factory. They are constructed from Horween leather which is welted to a Vibram 232 mini-lug outsole using a Goodyear Welt. They are built entirely by hand by a team of craftsman — it is said that over 100 hands will touch your boots before they leave the Portland factory. That is insane, considering how huge their production is. This is not a boutique boot company, this is an enormous, global boot company and to have that kind of craftsmanship standards is beyond astonishing.

Check out that traction! 45 degree mossy slope and holding strong.

These boots are built solid. The Horween leather is gorgeous and tough and, combined with a Vibram sole, means that these boots are built for the everyday adventures of Urban Explorers. And because they are welted(stitched) together, the boots are not going to come apart if you wear them day in and day out. The combination of leather welted to Vibram is pretty spectacular. You get the classy aesthetic of a welted leather boot with the usability/traction of a Vibram sole, not to mention it is much more durable than a glued sole.

Vibram 232 Mini-Lug soles. Solid performance on trails and in the city.

aesthetic

Just a note — men who wear classy leather boots with straight cut jeans are 78% more likely to attract a mate. And man, do the Piedmonts fit this bill. I have not seen many boots as classy and beautiful as the Piedmonts. The tan leather on the black sole is a timelessly classy look, yet somehow slightly rugged in these boots. The outsole is very low profile, which gives it a classy look, even though it is much more functional than your average leather sole boot.

The leather, with each step, will wear and conform to your foot. In other words, after a few weeks of wear, the boots will look worn. Which just adds to the cool aesthetic. It gives the boots a rugged look, which is much appreciated.

The aesthetic is one that would not be out of place in an office setting, just as it is one that would not be out of place on the Wildwood Trail or a walk up Burnside in a Portland mizzle. These are a great combination of style, class, function, and durability.

function

I have been wearing these boots for about a month straight now. In that time, we have had snow, rain, and sub-zero temps. It has been a harsh month as far as inclement weather goes and the Piedmonts have stood up to all of it.

The combination of leather with the Vibram sole does not just look good; rather, it creates a weather-resistent boot capable of walking through puddles and snow banks alike without any issues. The major crestfall of a leather-sole boot is that there is limited(if any at all) traction and that it will have problems if you walk through a puddle. This is where Danner comes in — The Piedmonts, with their Vibram sole, will grab onto snow and mud and will not allow water to permeate into the boot. Dry feet are happy feet.

Though they are quite weatherproof, I would still recommend applying a waterproofer (preferably a natural brand, such as SnoSeal or Otter Wax) to increase the leather’s ability to repel water. This will help protect the leather as well as give you a drier foot in the long run.

A test of both OtterWax and Horween leather, my treated Piedmonts are quite water resistant.

These are an unlined boot, so they are not exactly warm, but I haven’t had any problems with longer excursions in the cold — Just throw on a good pair of woolies and you are set!

As with any quality leather product, there is a break in period. I have been wearing the Piedmonts for a month or so and they are pretty well broken in — Well, enough to where they are extremely comfortable to wear for an entire day. But, I can see them continuing to wear with me as I wear them.

The Piedmonts are true to size.

BestLeather Conclusion

There is an ample supply of classy looking leather boots out there, but few have the durability of these Danner’s. I am impressed by these boots. They have stood up to a three hour muddy romp through the woods, puddles, snow banks, 13+ hours on end of wear, and no problems at all.

Water beading up -- a testament to OtterWax and Horween! — Water beading up — a testament to OtterWax and Horween!

And the break in period is great for an unlined pair of full grain leather boots!

For $285, you are getting what you pay for. An excellent, beautiful, classy, well-built, and quality pair of boots that is as functional as it is great to look at. A great boot to wear in the city, a great boot to wear on the trail, a great boot to wear in a snow storm, you cannot go wrong with a pair of Danner Forest Heights Piedmonts, a boot for the urban explorer.

Check the Piedmonts out on Danner’s website!

If you have a pair of Danner boots, please share your story below!

April 1, 2014May 9, 2020

How Tough is Saddleback Leather’s Macbook Air Sleeve?

Leather is generally considered to be a fairly tough material, and full grain leather, the type we love to see and feel at BestLeather, is the toughest kind of leather. Full grain leather (the outermost layer of leather that is not sanded, smoothed, or corrected in any way) is the type of leather used by companies like Basadar and Saddleback Leather Company. I recently had the unfortunate experience of realizing how tough Saddleback’s leather is, while using Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve.

SPRING BREAK

My wife and I, along with our four children, took a trip to Utah over spring break. We had a great time visiting with friends and seeing some of the sites. When the fun was over, we packed up our Honda Odyssey at the hotel and got everyone and everything into the car (or so we thought). Unbeknownst to me, my wife left her recent model Macbook Air on top of the van as she was helping get the kids situated and in their car seats. I unabashedly admit that I am a fan of Saddleback Leather goods, and when we bought this computer, I purchased a Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve as a measure of protection for it. So the laptop sat on top of our car in its comfy sleeve.

THE MISHAP

We drove the mile to the freeway entrance, turned onto the onramp, and were almost at freeway speed when we heard something hit the car. We looked around and didn’t see anything amiss, but then noticed the car behind us flashing their lights. I figured something was wrong, so I pulled over. Not seeing anything, we got back on the freeway; shortly thereafter, my wife blurted out, “I left the computer on top of the car!”

We took the next exit and circled back so that we could retrace our steps. As we came to where we remember something hitting our car, we slowed down to where we thought the computer might be, and sure enough, there it was on the side of the road. I carefully pulled over, and my wife ran out and grabbed it. I snapped a few pictures with my IPhone 5. The computer was mostly in the sleeve, but was part way out when she picked it up. One side of the sleeve was gouged, scratched, and marred, while the other side was relatively unscathed.

Amazingly, the computer was perfectly intact, minus a few scratches on the lid. We opened it up and voila, it snapped awake as it always has.

I was dumbfounded. I fully expected the computer to be a write-off and was almost tempted to just leave it to the elements after we realized what it was that fell off the car. For the computer to be perfectly sound after falling nearly six feet, at sixty miles an hour is either a miracle, or a testament to some of the best leather you can find. Below are a few more close up pictures that I took after we got home.

THE LEATHER

My Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve was beaten up, but there were no gouges that cut all the way through to the laptop. In fact, none of the gouges made it through to the pigskin lining (Saddleback Leather’s lining of choice). A skid on the freeway at 60 MPH is a good way to test how tough leather is, and, though I hope that I will not be performing that test again anytime soon, it was interesting to see the result. Fortunately, my computer was housed with thick, four to five ounce, vegetable tanned boot leather. Because Saddleback also uses leather that is tanned and drum dyed all of the way through to the middle (the terminology in leather speak is ‘struck through’), my sleeve is still the same color, even where the gouges and scratches are. This is great leather and this is a tough sleeve for a Macbook Air.

THE THREAD

Similar to the toughness of the leather, I found that the continuous filament polyester thread that Saddleback uses is also tough as nails. Much of the thread was frayed on the side with all of the scratches, but I did not see a single piece of thread that had broken or come undone. Every single stitch was still intact. Tough leather and tough thread — that is a winning combo.

Though I am pretty sure that the Saddleback Leather Macbook Air Sleeve was not designed to be tossed out of a car at 60 MPH, I am very glad that they design very hardy and durable leather goods. One thing that may have prevented any scratches on the computer was some sort of a clasp or snap at the mouth of the sleeve, which would have prevented the computer from coming out at all. Perhaps this is too much to ask for as the result of one freak accident, but it is a consideration nonetheless.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Though it was not my intention to write a review of the Saddleback Leather Small MacBook Air Sleeve, this situation gave me a good reason to at least share my experience with it. Saddleback’s Macbook Air Sleeve is tough, it is beautiful, it fits perfectly, and if you have the misfortune of a mishap like mine, you will be glad that you paid the price for a quality leather product.

March 31, 2014November 22, 2021

A Review of TrunkClub.com – Part 1

BestLeather.org has partnered with TrunkClub.com to provide a full review of the Trunk Club experience, service level, and products. As always, we will share the results with you to help you better decide if they are appropriate for yourself.

What is TrunkClub.com?

Imagine receiving a custom tailored box of clothes from a high end retailer each time you want new clothes –that’s TrunkClub.com. You suggest what would be appropriate for you through their online sizing, styling, and ordering process, and then they do the rest of the work. One week later, you receive a box of clothes on your doorstep (that you will have to sign for) with items suited to your style. That’s it. Shop online, save time.

Through the service, you can acquire shoes, belts, pants, socks, shirts, sport coats, ties, and bowties. The focus is definitely up-market, but, along with the “dressed-to-the-nines” trunk, you can also request a casual trunk.

It’s an interesting idea to ship custom clothing packages, and it seems to be catching on in a big way. Trunk Club is shipping over 1000 “trunks” per month–at an average of $1,000. That is some serious volume. Furthermore, with 182,000 fans on Facebook, there is quite a large pool of customers ready to pay for these custom services. In 2012, Trunk Club did 17 million dollars in revenue and projected numbers for 2013 were around 40 million dollars!

Judging from the number of open positions advertised on Indeed.com, we suspect Trunk Club plans to continue their impressive growth.

signup

For the MBA student readers we have here, pay attention to this: there is a smart rule in business that says to make as few steps as possible for customers to give their money to you. Trunk Club does this well.

Your first glance through the website makes the sales process instantly clear.

1) Sign up.

2)Your individually assigned stylist selects your clothes according to your specifications.

3) In about a week, open the box.

The actual process was that simple. Sign up took three or four minutes. My very pleasant stylist, Holly, called me that evening and we talked about my preferences. And here, a week later, I write these first thoughts with my introductory trunk sitting on the bed.

So far, I am impressed with the service. It has been concise, professional, prompt, and easy. There is a lot of hard-earned wisdom that has gone into this business model. It is well worth paying attention to, but is it worth subscribing to?

Next up, we will evaluate the value of these items Trunk Club sent. What do you get in a $2,500 trunk and what happens if you don’t like it? Those important questions and more in the next article.

March 28, 2014December 19, 2017

Bickmore Leather Conditioner Review – $9.99

The Bickmore Leather Company was started over 100 years ago by Dr. A. Parker Bickmore, who saw a need to treat draft horses who were plagued with sores caused by harness use. With his pharmaceutical knowledge and his business acumen, Bickmore created a salve that would effectively treat the horses. That simple salve was the beginning product of a company dedicated to producing the highest quality products for the leather industry (for a more in-depth look at their story, go here). Bickmore has a four pronged approach to their product line: leather care, health care, hat care, and equine grooming care products. They are constantly improving their products, and not settling for even good results. The Japanese word for this idea is kaizen, which Wikipedia defines as the “philosophy or practices that focus upon continuous improvement of processes in manufacturing, engineering, and business management”.

BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a small sample of their product line: the Bick 1 Leather Cleaner ($9.99 for eight ounces), Bick 4 Leather Conditioner ($9.99 for eight ounces), and Gard-More Water & Stain Repellent ($9.99 for five point five ounces).

product knowledge

Bickmore’s leather care products are ideally meant to be used in a sequence. The Leather Cleaner is first. Its purpose is to remove soil, grease, spur marks, and most food and ink stains, while at the same time not discoloring or darkening the leather. This is important because dirt and grime can actually cut, damage or weaken the fibers of leather, leading to more rapid aging and deterioration. Bickmore’s Leather Cleaner is specifically formulated to clean leather, while allowing the leather to breathe, further allowing the fibers to flex freely.

The next step is to apply Bick 4, their Leather Conditioner. Bick 4 restores natural oils to the leather, lubricates the fibers, and helps to prevent scuffing, cracking, and some staining to occur. Bick 4 leaves behind no residue and contains no silicone, which allows the leather to breathe easier. Applying leather conditioner is important because it reduces the effects of sunlight exposure, normal wear and tear, and temperature extremes.

The last step is to apply Gard-More Water & Stain Repellent. This is a spray application, whereas Bick 1 and Bick 4 are a wipe on application. Similar to Bick 4, Gard-More has no silicone and is formulated to allow the leather to breathe appropriately. It does not stain or change the color of the leather in any way, but will still protect the leather from perspiration, water, and grease.

method

Of course, the best method of reviewing Bickmore’s products was to use them on some of our own, well used goods. For this article, I decided to use the three products on my Saddleback Leather large billfold wallet, which I have had for about two years now, and my Saddleback Leather 1 3/4″ tow belt (which is no longer in production). Both the wallet and the belt are Saddleback’s dark coffee brown, which over time, has lightened in color with heavy use.

To demonstrate the use of Bickmore’s products, I first took pictures of both the wallet and the belt before any treatment, then again after using Bick 1, and then again after using Bick 4. I did spray both the belt and the wallet with Gard-More, but as it is intended, the liquid quickly evaporated with no change in appearance. I figured that documenting the evaporation would be fairly tricky camera work, so the after pictures for the Gard-More were forgone.

wallet

For this review I focused on the inside of my wallet. The inside had the most use and abuse from repeatedly pulling credit cards in and out of the sleeves, as you can see from the photo below. The wallet also is a little discolored and pigmented from normal wear and tear.

Below is a picture of the wallet after using Bick 1 Leather Cleaner. Although there was not a lot of dirt and grime on the wallet per se, you can definitely tell a difference in the color and texture of the leather as a result of the cleaning. Much of the discoloration is gone, and the leather has more of a rich color again.

Below is a picture of the wallet after using Bick 4 Leather Conditioner. Although there is not much, if any, of a noticeable difference in appearance after using Bick 4, it is important that it be used to re-condition and moisturize the leather after using a cleaning agent. My wallet was looking used and abused and certainly does look better now. The cleaner and conditioner did not remove all evidence of the scratches, which I was very happy with. Part of the beauty of leather is the patina and the marks that you make, which gives it more character.

belt

Similar to the wallet, my tow belt has received regular use. I pulled my belt off and unbeknownst to me, it had a nice stain on it. Of what, I’m not sure, and probably don’t want to know. With four little kids in my house, it could be anything. “Perfect for this review,” I thought.

Below is a picture of my belt before any application. Notice the stain, some discoloration, and some general looking wear.

Below is a picture of the belt after using Bick 1 Leather Cleaner. The difference in appearance is significant. That beautiful luster is back and this after a cleaning that took no more than 30 seconds. I used a simple white rag that I had laying around and used about a quarters size of cleaner. I rubbed the entire belt, but spent a little more time on the stain.

Here is the belt after applying Bick 4 Leather Conditioner. As with the wallet, I did not notice anything different with how the belt looked after the application. Several hours after applying Bick 4, I took another look at the belt and it looked the same as after the immediate application. This suggests a product that does not quickly fade, but rather really penetrates the leather as it is supposed to.

BestLeather conclusion

Using Bickmore’s leather care products was easy and had noticeable results. Their commitment to manufacturing products that allows leather to breathe as it should and to using chemicals that are completely leather friendly is commendable. The results of my mini-experiment demonstrate that Bickmore’s products work, and that they bring back to life faded and used leather. My belt and my wallet are thankful for this and I’m sure your leather goods will be too.

March 25, 2014December 19, 2017

RSVP – Helm Boots is Having a Party Friday Night, 28 March

Come see the folks at the HELM store – 900 East 6th Street in Austin, Texas – this Friday. Try on new styles, see some old styles on sale and have a cocktail from Juiceland. It’s a great way to start the weekend. RSVP on Facebook – follow them while you’re over there!

They are announcing the new styles for Spring ’14: The Dash in Gray & Chestnut, The Phillips in Copper and the Lotzer in Teak. Shop online or in their East Austin store or just give them a call 512.609.8150. They will be happy to introduce you to these new, versatile boots.

March 24, 2014December 19, 2017

Avund Goods Men’s Marine Shackle Review – $25

Avund Goods is a purveyor of high quality leather goods with a tradition in British and Scandinavian design and art. The quality of their goods is a manifestation of this background and tradition. Avund goes through a rigorous process of testing and reviewing their products before they go into production. This process ensures a product that is not only useful, but beautiful.

I received the Men’s Marine Shackle from Mika Becktor of Avund Goods, as a bonus to a review we were doing on their Forsta V wallet. Though the Shackle was unexpected, it was appreciated and admired.

the leather

The Shackle is made of natural color, vegetable tanned leather. This is the type of leather that ages beautifully over time. The leather actually patinas to a slightly darker hue with use and over time. The leather is approximately four to five ounces in weight. As is fairly common with vegetable tanned leather, the bracelet is fairly stout and not at all flimsy.

the edges

Like all of Avund Good products, the edges of the shackle receive attention. In this case, the edges are beveled, and then the fine point of the edge is burnished with beeswax to a crisp finish. This treatment gives the bracelet a clean, crisp look. This attention is impressive, even for something as simple as a bracelet. It shows a devotion to making the very best product possible.

manliness

The hardware for this shackle makes it really pop and is very man-worthy. As one that does not normally wear a bracelet-like item, the industrial nature of the hardware makes it work for me. The unique U-shaped loop and the screw in pin finish the bracelet into a truly manly article worthy of showcasing. Riveting the leather loops on both ends of the bracelet ensures this bracelet will stand the test of time as well.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are looking for an accessory to demonstrate your manliness, and to prove your intelligence of fine leather, the Men’s Marine Shackle from Avund Goods is a smart choice.

March 22, 2014December 19, 2017

Tanner Goods Announces Los Angeles Store Grand Opening – Saturday March 29th 11AM-6PM

The Portland, OR, based Tanner Goods has demonstrated an impressive ability to grow organically and offer conventional and unique goods like their go-to classic belt, artistic quilted blankets and Nokori folding chair. The variety of their offerings is as diverse as it is deep.

Now you can find Tanner Goods in Los Angeles on Saturday, March 29th, (that’s one week from today) from 11AM to 6PM in their new store at 860 S Broadway. This will be a great chance to meet and greet your new LA Tanner Goods. Of course, there will be beer provided by Monkish Brewing Company (who, by the way, has an promising list of beers).

Let us know what it is like–especially all that craft beer!

These eye catching photos were taken by Michael Andersen.

March 21, 2014November 20, 2019

Saddleback Leather Thin Briefcase Review – $474

If a bag is something you use every day, then sooner or later you’ll come to realize that it’s worth the money to invest in something of better quality. One year ago I was in this predicament and I finally decided to bite the bullet and spend a little more on a leather briefcase. I wanted something durable that would last, as well as something functional and easy on the eyes. When the mail arrived with my Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase I knew I had made the right choice.

After opening the clear plastic packaging and slipping the briefcase out, I immediately noticed the aroma of the fresh leather. You know the smell. Before I examined the bag any further, I had to first bring it close to my face and take a few seconds to enjoy the scent–something I’ve repeated many times since.

Aesthetic

Saddleback Leather is known for their classic briefcase. It is a beautiful design, but at 9 inches deep, it is a little too big for my tastes. The thin briefcase is a 4 1/2 inch deep version of the same design, minus the cool belts that wrap around the whole bag.

I originally got the medium, but as soon as I opened the package I knew it was too small. At 15 inches wide, it looked too small in my hand and too small over my shoulder. The carrying capacity was fine; I was able to snuggly fit my 15 inch Asus laptop in it, but it just didn’t look right to me. I am not a huge guy (I’m about 5 feet 10 inches tall with broad shoulders), but it looked like a mini briefcase on my frame. So I contacted Saddleback and exchanged it for the large, which their customer service made very easy for me.

As soon as I saw the Large Thin Briefcase, I knew I had made the right decision. It’s 17 inches wide, 12 1/2 inches tall, and 4 1/2 inches deep. Like all of Saddleback’s bags it’s made from full grain leather and doesn’t have any zippers, snaps, or anything like that. Instead it’s all straps, buckles, and D-rings.

The aesthetic is classic and the design is functional, but it’s not for everyone. I don’t necessarily see it as a slick accessory for an executive in the boardroom. It is more suited to a photographer lugging gear around the city or a young professor carrying documents across campus. However you choose to use it though, be prepared to get noticed and receive compliments.

The more I have used this bag, the more beautiful it has become. Over time, it has collected scratches, scuffs, and wrinkles that make for a beautiful patina. As the leather softens and develops more character, it only adds to the classic and already attractive design of the bag. And with Saddleback’s 100 year warranty, you’re guaranteed to be able to use this briefcase for a lifetime.

Construction

Some other bags you’ll come across will have seams at the edges of the bottom, or a seam down the middle of the bottom, which binds multiple smaller pieces of leather. But each seam is a potential weak point, which is a problem for someone who wants their briefcase to last a lifetime. Saddleback’s thin briefcase is made up of only four main pieces of leather: the front flap going around all the way down the back, the front panel, and the two gussets that run the entire length of the bag.

It is all double-stitched and the stress areas are reinforced with copper and brass rivets, as well as hidden polyester strips. The hardware is nickel-plated brass and can hold up well against any abuse you’d give it.

On the inside it’s made up of two main compartments, with a pigskin pocket and two side pockets in the front compartment, and a simple open compartment in the back. The inside is lined with pigskin, which is incredibly tough stuff made to reinforce the already tough full grain leather. An additional full-sized pocket runs along the back of the briefcase. There aren’t a ton of compartments, it’s more of a minimalist approach, and with the lack of zippers and pockets it might not to be to some people’s liking.

Functionality

It’s surprising how much can be packed into this thin briefcase. I carry it with me every day and it is typically filled with my laptop, notebooks, lunch bag, pens, knife, folders, and often much more. The more you pack in, the more the leather stretches and bulges to accommodate a full capacity. Is it heavy? Yes–compared to many of the other options out there, especially a canvas bag. But it’s tough leather and in my opinion looks much better, so it’s a trade-off you’ll have to consider. Do not expect this briefcase to float in the air behind you, but it will not bend your spine, either.

This briefcase has been used almost every day back and forth from my house to my office, and the leather has softened considerably, especially in the front strap and shoulder strap. The front flap in particular has developed a lot of wrinkles, but there is not any cracking, nor anything that is not natural for leather.

You can put it in backpack mode by running the strap through the large O-ring on the back, but I never have a need to use it that way. I removed one of the shoulder strap pads because I only wear it across the body over my shoulder. Except for a little bit of fuzz on the handle, the stitching has held together well. And despite getting a heavy amount of usage, there are no signs on the hardware of wear, weakness, or anything broken.

Best Leather Conclusion

Ultimately I’m very happy with the Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase and I recommend it to anyone who relies on a briefcase or bag to carry their stuff around on a regular basis. It’s a little bit heavier and might not have all the compartments and zippers some like, but it’s strong leather that will carry your gear for decades to come, all while developing a beautiful patina. If you don’t have a briefcase from Saddleback Leather yet, I recommend either going to buy one or start saving.

Check out the thorough 1-year-later video below.

March 21, 2014December 19, 2017

Colsen Keane Limited Edition Sale Today through Sunday

This weekend, Colsen Keane Custom Leather Goods is having a sale on limited edition leathers! 15% OFF with the Coupon Code “CKlimitededition”.

Although there still is a good selection of distressed satchels, when you get to the site, you will see most the limited edition items are sold out.

Coupon code expires on 23 March 2014.

Colsen Keane has a great reputation for quality leather goods – and you can save 15% this weekend.

Click the coupon to go to the site and view the items in the Limited Edition.

March 19, 2014December 19, 2017

An Introduction To Origins Leather Company

At BestLeather.org, we search out companies that are committed to the values we hold dear: commitment to high quality leather craftsmanship, original design, and the best leather and materials available. We love to share their stories when we find these companies. One such young company has recently come to our attention — Origins Leather Company.

kickstarter

I found Origins as a result of perusing Kickstarter. Impressed with what I saw, I inquired and made the connection. The Origins Leather Company will be sending us their briefcase to review in June or July, and after that, they will be sending us one for a giveaway. We look forward to that, but are excited to give you a sneak peak at some of their products and design.

design

The Origins Leather company was formed by Aaron Dean, Erik Sjolie, and Michael Sjolie. They created the company to bring to market high quality leather goods for both business and casual use. Classic design and functionality were their focus for product creation. From what I have seen of their products so far, simple design seems to be important as well. They have eliminated pockets, straps, or stitching that is unnecessary, and stuck with the basics. Also, they have eliminated lining in their bags, not only as a means of keeping their bags lighter weight, but also to provide a more natural feel to the inside of their bags.

leather

Origins uses only vegetable tanned, five to six ounce leather. To them, using vegetable tanned leather is not only more environmentally friendly (much more so than chrome tanning), but it is a leather that is in most cases more durable. It is also a little more rigid, which allows for better bag construction — lighter weight leather with sufficient structure. They currently are offering one beautiful color, which they are calling Trunk Chestnut.

craftsmanship

Origins felt that in order to succeed in beginning their company, they needed to partner with craftsman that create products meant to last generations. They were fortunate to be able to partner with the same company that makes Saddleback Leather’s bags and products. Similar to Saddleback, Origins is offering a 100 year guarantee on their products. That is serious faith in your materials and your craftsmanship. Anybody familiar with a Saddleback bag can certainly understand why they feel comfortable with this guarantee. To help support that guarantee, they use solid copper rivets, solid brass hardware and tough as nails polyester thread.

products

The Origin Leather Company is currently offering six products. The associated prices below are based on what they are currently offering through Kickstarter, meaning these prices won’t last long:

A Briefcase – $325
A Writers Bag – $225
A Travelers Pouch – $90
The Tote Bag – $150
Koozies (A pint glass holder) – $50 for four
Wallet – $30

BestLeather conclusion

If you are currently in the market for any of these items, now is a great time to take advantage of Origin’s Kickstarter campaign, and pick up some goods for less than the soon-to-be retail price. I am excited to get my hands on their briefcase. Good luck on your Kickstarter campaign Origins; we look forward to working with you.

March 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Danner Forest Heights Piedmont Boot – First Impressions

A full review on the boots will be finished soon, after I wear them for a few weeks, but I couldn’t help giving you guys a little taste of what the Forest Heights Piedmont boot from Danner are about.

The Piedmonts at the coffee shop. First wear.

Danner is based out of Portland, Oregon. (If you would like to read more about their company and their philosophy regarding quality, please check out my article which goes into much more detail regarding the company.)

out of the box

My first words were, “Damn, these are beautiful.” No question about it — the Piedmonts are a beautiful pair of boots.

I put them on and went to the coffee shop — my normal routine. I am used to the break in process of leather boots and the Piedmonts are no exception. You can expect some blisters for the first few days — but stick with it! After just a week or so of wear, they are already broken in and are my everyday shoe now.

Double stitching and braided nylon laces make these boots tough and useable in many situations.

Right out of the box, they feel solid. The leather is supple, the laces are strong, the eyelets are simple and good looking, and the sole is a good piece of Vibram rubber, which is renowned for both durability and traction. I was impressed the moment I felt them.

Goodyear welted sole. This is much more durable than a glued sole.

I have worn them for three weeks now and they feel great. I treated them with Boot Wax, a natural leather sealant from another Portland-based company, Otter Wax, to protect them from the weather here. As you know, weather in the Pacific Northwest can be unpredictable and is usually wet; Boot Wax, full grain leather, Vibram soles, and Goodyear welting means the Piedmonts are good for most conditions found in the wild, wet, and beautiful PNW. They are almost fully broken in, as well, which is a good sign.

If you have a pair, what did you think when you first pulled them out of the box and onto your feet?

March 16, 2014December 19, 2017

Heritage Leather Company Mason Bag Review – $141.83

The Heritage Leather Company creates and manufactures durable goods for the working man or woman. With a product line that consists of tool bags, tool satchels, knee pads, leather aprons, and more, Heritgage Leather has a focus on making goods that are meant to be used and abused. As such, they have a commitment to producing goods that are durable, functional, but affordable. BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a few items from Heritage Leather, their 16” Mason Tool Bag, their Pliers Holder, and their Six Pocket Tool Pouch.

the leather

Considering we are a site about leather, my first impressions are usually focused on the leather itself, and with Heritage Leather’s goods, there was no exception. For the Pliers Holder and Tool Pouch, Heritage Leather uses vegetable tanned, natural colored, four to five ounce leather. Similar in function to saddle leather, this leather can be formed and molded for a specific purpose, and retain that shape for many years. It is the color of leather that patinas to a golden hue over time, that is very stout, and is very durable. In other words, it’s the right leather choice to hold tools.

The majority of the Mason Bag is made of heavy duty, 18 ounce canvas. Heavy canvas, instead of leather, is a reasonable choice for a large tool bag, considering tools in and of themselves are heavy. The light weight canvas is stout enough, but light enough to make the bag comfortable to carry, even when loaded with tools. To support these tools and ensure that the bag holds together for a long time, Heritage uses one solid, thick, top grain piece of leather for the bottom of the bag. This leather is chrome tanned. Personally, I would prefer vegetable tanned leather for the bottom of the bag, because of its increased durability, but the choice of using thick leather compensates and ensures a long life.

The handles and closure straps of the mason bag are made of four to five ounce vegetable tanned, natural colored leather, the same as their tool pouches. This is stout, very durable leather, that is meant to hold up to years of use.

function

After spending a couple weeks with the goods from Heritage Leather, it was obvious that they focus on producing items that have a very specific purpose, and that these items must serve that purpose well. The Pliers Holder has the right size pocket for an average pair of pliers. The Tool Pouch has enough pockets to carry the essentials for a number of small tasks, like hanging a painting, repairing a broken gate, or fixing that leaky faucet. The Mason Bag has a wide mouth, which makes it easy to drop tools into, and quickly pull tools from the bag. I really liked this design for a tool bag. When I am trying to fix something, the last thing I want to mess around with is trying to get my bag open, or to search inside the bag for the right tool. The wide mouth design of the Mason Bag eliminates this hassle.

Like a classic tool bag, the Mason Bag opens from the inside outward, to provide complete access to the entire bag. It opens and closes easily, and the straps keep the bag cinched shut when transporting tools, or not in use. I found that the metal frame made it easier to carry the bag around, even with tools in it, without using the straps.

the details

The well known idiom, “The Devil is in the details” is just as true in leather working as in any other craft, if not more so. I can quickly tell when a leather good is made to high standards by focusing on some of the details, the type of stitching used, the quality of the hardware, the overall design of an item, etc.

After spending some time with these Heritage Leather goods, it is obvious that they are a company that remembers the details. Heritage uses strong, nylon thread for all of its bags, pouches, and tool holders. With thread weight anywhere from a size 69 to a size 277 (the larger the number, the thicker the thread), they use what is most appropriate for the item being crafted.

Heritage also uses steel, nickel plated hardware for it’s buckles and rings. They also use metal studs for the bottom of their mason bags, for better wear and tear protection. Similarly, they insert a thick piece of water resistant fiberboard in the bottom of the bag, to provide enough rigidity for an ample supply of tools.

In speaking to Heritage about their Mason Bag, they pointed out that they replaced the original steel frame with an aluminum frame as a means of making the bag a little lighter, while still maintaining enough strength and rigidity. Couple the lighter weight nature of the bag, with the provided shoulder strap, and lots of space, and you could actually use the bag as your overnight bag for a campout or other excursion. Dual purpose, I like that.

price

It is fairly unusual in the world of quality leather, to get a quality good for a low price. The equation: High quality = high prices is generally true. The mathematics are pretty plain and simple. I think Heritage Leather comes as close as possible to bucking this equation as a company can. They currently sale their Pliers Holder for $6.78. The Tool Pouch is $22.32 and the Mason Bag is $141.83. For leather products that are made in the good ole’ U.S. of A, those are darn good prices for very good quality items.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a tool pouch, bag, or other leather tool accessory, the Heritage Leather Company is a great choice, plain and simple.

March 15, 2014May 9, 2020

Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet Review – $47

Saddleback Leather has multiple styles of wallets to choose fron. This review will cover the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet in Tobacco and Black (and it seems they do not even have the black color available any longer). The wallets come in two other colors; chestnut and carbon (a grayish color). I do plan on purchasing the other colors to see which I like best, especially after they have developed a nice patina. Patina is a shiny or dark surface that forms naturally on something such as wood or leather that is used and or worn for a certain period of time. Here is a great example of patina. Upon the six month and year follow up reviews there will be pictures posted so you can see the developed patina.

Packaging

Some companies have awesome packaging that somehow sends you back to your favorite Christmas, yet this is not so with Saddleback. But even though the packaging may not be overdone the product you receive certainly will be.

Some Initial Details

The first thing that stood out was the smell. That true leather smell is so delicious. Among many things, the smell was what I kept showing and telling people about. Then after some odd looks I would explain that the wallet only cost about $36. I could not get over the fact that I had purchased a full grain leather wallet that people were raving about for less than 50 bucks. Saddleback did not disappoint. The wallet has aged for about three months and the smell, unfortunately, has worn less pungent than I would like. Yet as the smell has declined the quality of craftsmanship is really starting to show off.

Aesthetic

When you receive your wallet do not be shocked by the stiffness of it. This is how a lot of good leather starts off before the user breaks it in. At first, barely any bills fit into the slot (unless you put some strength and finesse into it); yet that has slowly gotten easier over the last three months. The bottom right corner on the face of the wallet has “Saddleback” stamped on it and the bottom right inside flap has Blue, Dave Munson’s (the founder and owner of Saddleback Leather) late dog stamped on it.

Function

Six cards can barely fit in each card slot (more will go in if you really want them to). There are two card slots. When accessing cards be aware that you might be tempted to take out all of the cards, shuffle through them, and then pick which one you want. It is possible to leave all the cards in the slot and nimbly pick through them depending on how many cards you are going to put in each slot. The wallet is geared more toward a minimalist tool and I normally carry four cards max in each side and it fits them perfectly. Currently I have four bills in the bill slot with 4 paper punch cards, one stamp, and a receipt from Papa Murphy’s. All of it fits great with room for more. The bills have enough room to go deep enough as to not stick out, which is admirable. For those of you who usually put a giant rock-sized thing called a wallet in your back pocket, this might be the cure the doctor has for you to minimize the things you carry and be a little easier on your body. When I received it I definitely had to go through and prioritize the things I actually need to carry.

Quick Aside of Dave’s Deals

So how was this product obtained for only $36? Dave’s Deals. Since his products are hand made (another star for him) sometimes small mistakes are made, usually in the stitching. He will then mark down the product by as much as 25%, depending on the flaw. Each flaw will be different. On the wallet I purchased, the only flaws were about four places where the stitch must have been messed up so they re-stitched it. Now it looks just a little thicker than the normal stitch. There is slight fraying from one of the stitching flaws but if it ever breaks I will happily let them uphold their warranty.

BestLeather conclusion

I will add some thoughts and updates as time goes on to see how this wallet ages but these three months make me think that there is going to be much enjoyment of this great product for years to come. My family just might fight over it when I am dead. This is a great purchase for a wallet especially since it is in the lower price range for such a good quality product, Dave’s Deals or not. Make sure to check back in the following months for updates and let me know your thoughts if you own or have had a significant encounter with the wallet. Overall the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet was a great purchase.

Click here to see everything that is discounted on Dave’s Deals today.

March 14, 2014December 19, 2017

This Weekend Save 15% on all Satchels at Colsen Keane

If you have been putting off your satchel purchase, Colsen Keane now gives you a reason to put this off no longer. This weekend only, all their satchels are 15% off with the coupon code CKsatchel. Click the image to go to the site.

BTW: If you are interested in a handy tech bag, or gadget bag. We are currently reviewing the Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case. Look for the review here in about a week to ten days.

March 14, 2014December 19, 2017

Waskerd Slim Strayer Wallet Review – $55

As time progresses it seems that many of the materials and skills that our ancestors used are falling away. Of course they are replaced with more easily produced, less expensive products and materials. We could assume that this is better, but Waskerd has a different philosophy. They make all of their products by hand, and all their materials are from the US. It’s a throwback to the days when most of what you owned was built by someone who you knew. I can say that having the Waskerd Strayer Wallet has proven to me that the old way has advantages. In comparison to my life filled with mass-produced generic products it is fast becoming one of my favorite possessions.

Construction Technique

Derek, the owner at Waskerd, has made a point to keep his construction processes as far away from the mechanically produced as possible; the result is very high quality leather goods. Everything that he makes is by hand, and just as the old days he emphasises knowing where everything that goes into his products comes from. As a purist he avoids templates, opting to cut and stitch by eye. The wallets can be ordered with custom leather and thread colors as well. Both of these features lend to the town leathersmith aspect of his business and certainly makes each wallet an original.

Leather

The Waskerd Strayer is made out of full grain leather. Full grain leather is the best quality available meaning that this wallet will last for years. In addition it is chrome tanned and after only a few weeks use it is already developing a nice patina. In years to come it will develop personality through my habits of use. A nice touch is the unfinished edges that highlight the way the leather wears. In some cases a manufacturer will leave edges raw in an attempt to skip a step. Since this leather is chrome tanned, the edges fit the look and feel of the wallet.

Stitching

Waskerd uses waxed polyester thread. As opposed to cotton it is much more durable (less likely to rot, break or come unraveled, and impervious to ultraviolet rays). Each hole is punched by hand. This is great because even though the stitching is extremely straight, it has a nice bespoke look and feel to it. He uses a saddle stitch for better durability and the corners are cleverly double stitched for better wear.

One of the endearing features of Waskerd’s unique designs are the intricate W sewn into the front of their wallets. This is fantastic and a level of creativity we don’t often get to see.

Bestleather Conclusion

This is a good wallet. At $55 it is reasonably priced especially since it will last for so long. The one drawback that I have found is that your bills must be double folded in the front. As a result they all need to be pulled out every time you pay cash. For someone who uses less cash and more cards the Strayer is worth looking into more. Their other wallets are also well worth a look.

Click here to check out the Strayer Slim wallet on Waskerd.com.

March 13, 2014December 19, 2017

Introduction to Danner Boots – A Quality History

Portland, Oregon is a hub for all that is cool. As Fred Armisen would say, “The dream of the 90s is alive in Portland.” People wear flannel shirts, tights jeans, big glasses, gauges, the lot. It is a timeless casually classy look. Leather is everywhere you look — Leather wallets, leather pants, leather jackets, leather iPhone cases, leather bags, leather, leather, leather, leather, and, finally, more leather. One of the most prominent of all of these trades are boots — Portland is a leather boot city. And that’s where Danner comes in.

Danner Boots

In 1932, Charles Danner realized a dream. Amidst the throes of the Great Depression, he realized that quality was fading in the American boot trade. Thus, fueled by his passion for quality and craftsmanship, he began building American sourced and American made leather boots out of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Danner Boots was born.

Four years later, with the growing need for highly durable boots in the Pacific Northwest due to the growing logging industry, Danner uprooted himself and moved west — To Portland, Oregon. In Portland, he was building and selling the best, most durable leather boots available to loggers, who needed them most. A pair of well worn Shipyard boots in the 1940s was the mark of a man’s man. They were said to be virtually indestructible and were thus the chosen boot of men who labored long and hard in the woods, at the docks, or really wherever there was excessive mud, rain, snow, or any other extreme elements.

In the mid-20th century, mass production was rising in popularity and quality, handcrafted goods were falling by the wayside. Danner frowned at this and insisted that Danner Boots be handbuilt with the highest standards of craftsmanship and quality — no matter the cost or increased production time. And they’re still committed to craftsmanship and quality today. I like that quite a bit.

Handcrafted from quality materials. Courtesy of Danner Boots.

The Stumptown line from Danner are constructed entirely in Danner’s Portland, Oregon factory. www.danner.com/boots/stumptown

Danner’s impact on leather culture

Danner is a prime example of the fact that companies can continue the pursuit of quality and craftsmanship even through growth and expansion. It is all too easy for a company to fall into a trap: “Because we’re putting out so many products, we need to sacrifice quality”. Charles Danner had the right idea back in the 30s and that philosophy continues through to this day at Danner: quality is of the utmost importance. And you, the consumer, will pay for that quality. But, Danner will deliver and it will be well worth it.

Real people with real hands constructing boots by hand. That is what I like to see. Courtesy of Danner Boots.

What do you think of the philosophy behind Danner and their impact on the leather culture? Do you have a pair of Danner boots? If so, share their story!

March 12, 2014February 9, 2023

All About The Types Of Leather Use In Shoes – Type, Thickness, And Grains

Many people love leather, especially in shoes. It’s a strong and durable material that can withstand the elements and wear and tear. It’s also resistant to scuffs and scratches. Leather shoes are often more comfortable than those made from other materials because they can mold to the feet’s shape over time.

Leather shoes are also versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. They’re available in various styles, colors, and designs. Interestingly, they can eventually develop a unique patina, making them even more desirable. Such features are some of the reasons why they’re considered a great investment. So, if you’re looking for nice leather shoes, check out leather boots from Brand House Direct and other similar stores.

Unlike other objects made of leather, like furniture, coats, purses and so on, the majority of shoe leather is stretched over a last (a wooden or plastic form in the general shape of a foot) to create the shoe upper. To do this the leather has to be within a certain range of thickness. And, certain types of leather define the type and quality of the shoe. Lets dig into what leathers are ideal for shoes.

Types of Leather Used in Shoes

One of the most preferred leathers for dress/business shoes is calfskin. Because calfskin comes from a calf it has a tighter grain and fiber, and is thinner and lighter than cow hide; this makes for better shoe leather. Other types of animal leather include:

Kidskin (from goat) – Known for its delicate texture and suppleness, it’s a popular choice for high-end fashion and footwear.
Pigskin/Peccary (from pig) – It’s known for its durability, strength, and resistance to wear and tear, as well as its unique grain pattern and texture.
Cordovan Shell (from horse) – Its unique characteristics, such as its durability, high level of water resistance, and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time, are its main selling points. It’s also known for its unique texture and how it takes the dye, resulting in a rich and deep color.
Bovine leather (cow hide / calfskin) – It’s one of the world’s most widely used types of leather due to its availability, durability, and versatility.

Those are the most common types of animal leather used in shoes.

Types of Animal Leather Used in Shoes

but you also have more exotics leathers such as the following:

Buffalo
Elephant
Kangaroo
Ostrich
Alligator
Crocodile
Lizard
Snake

Reptile skins tend to last longer and need less care than animal leathers, but they are also more expensive.

Where is Leather Used in Shoes?

A high quality, all leather, shoe uses leather in the following places:

The outsole of the shoe (the part that touches the ground)
The insole of the shoe (the part your foot rests on)
The lining of the shoe (between your foot and the upper)
The heel of the shoe (as in stacked layers of leather to create the heel)
The shoe upper (the rest of the shoe, excluding the items above)

Leather Thickness

Shoes that are not all leather may have rubber soles, insoles made of various materials, and heels made of wood, rubber or plastic. I would suggest going with all leather if you can, with the exception of perhaps rubber soles – if you need to stand in cold wet environments. Leather thicknesses is measured in ounces of weight to thickness in fractions of an inch:

1oz = 1/64
2oz = 1/32
3oz = 3/62
4oz = 1/16
5oz = 5/64
6oz = 3/32
7oz = 7/64
8oz = 1/8
9oz = 9/64
10oz = 5/32
11oz = 11/64
12oz = 3/16
13oz = 13/64
14oz = 7/32

A leather outsole on a man’s shoe is around 12oz in thickness on average. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, The lining is about 1oz.

All of these thicknesses can vary due to leather type, welt method, and shoe style. For example Italian shoes tend to be sleeker and therefore use thinner leather in the soles and uppers to achieve the look. Soles that are Blake stitched or bond welted don’t require as thick an insole as Goodyear welted shoes.

The quality of the leather used in a given line of shoes is determined by the grade of leather the shoe manufacturer purchased to make the shoes. The leather on a shoe upper is typically grain side out leather, but shell cordovan has no grain, waxed leather is used inside out (flesh side out), and suede leather has had the grain removed entirely. Leather that has blemishes in the grain are often buffed (sanded) of the grain side to remove the blemishes, which then requires the grain to be corrected.

About Corrected Grain Leather

Corrected grain leather is sometimes referred to as bookbinder leather. If the grain has not been corrected it is referred to as full grain. One of the final stages of tanning leather is applying the color and finish (although chromium tanned leather can be bought in the “wet blue” state” it comes out of the tanning process in). The high quality leather is typically aniline dyed, which saturates the color completely through the leather. The leather won’t have a coated feel to it. The leather is also pressed under high pressure to give it some shine, and a very thin coat of clear or colored acrylic is applied as a final finish, in most cases.

Some shoe manufacturers may also add an additional clear or colored finish coat. In the case of corrected grain, the pressing and acrylic finish is also where the corrected grain is applied. Because of this, corrected grain leather will have a thicker finish than non-corrected grain, and may also be a little shinier. Corrected grain finishes can range from a simple smooth surface to faux animal skin and pebble grain. Corrected grain leather is typically lower grade leather, simply because the grain and aniline dye would be covered up if done to a higher quality leather. And, the thicker the finish the poorer the leather quality can be. There are exceptions to this rule of course; for example: some pebble grain shoes/boots can be made of good quality leather, but it is hard to tell because of what the finish covers up.

The best way to tell if a shoe is made of corrected grain leather (actually, leather that has a corrected finish on the grain) is to flex the shoe. The finer the creases the more finish on the shoe (the greater the correction). Shoes come in all types and qualities of leather, so it helps to have an idea of what you are really buying. Another of the biggest indicators you can use for determining if a shoe uses corrected grain is price. Quality costs good money. Yet another way is to look at the shininess since corrected grain leather has a much thicker layer of acrylic.

Hopefully this article will give you some things to consider when you are you are looking to buy a shoe.

This is a guest post from Glen Tippets, the owner of the shoe care company, GlenKaren Care Products. You can learn more about his naturally made products at glenkarencare.com.

March 11, 2014May 9, 2020

Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffel Review & Giveaway (Winner: Nick S.)- $655

[Congratulations to Nick S. for winning this beautiful S addleback Leather bag out of 13,000 entries. He told me he would be using the bag for traveling and overnight trips!]

The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer.

For all of its beauty, however, there is what (initially) seems like a huge red flag: the strap containing the buckles that secure the side pocket flaps is fixed to the main pocket flap. It is just one long strap across the top of the bag that gets threaded through loops on the side pocket flaps and buckled to the side pockets themselves. This means that you cannot open the main pocket without the side pockets being unfastened. Either you travel with your side pockets unfastened, or you have to open three buckles every time you want to get into your main compartment. Opening the main flap all the way requires you to unthread that strap from the side pocket flaps. If you were opening the bag many times per day, this could get quite old.

When I first saw this, I was surprised. Saddleback is typically very thoughtful in their designs. SURELY, they know best and there is some brilliant reason for this that I will love once I figure it out. SURELY, they would not offer a bag with such an obvious design flaw. It seems that Dave uses his prototypes for something like 20 years to perfect them, sending a complimentary bag to Jesus of Nazareth by angelic courier via Jacob’s Ladder, and offering the remainder for sale to the rest of us.

Then I remembered that this is luggage! The majority of my Saddleback Leather products happen to be everyday use items (like my backpack). But not so much with this one; you will put all your travel goodies in it and only open it up when you arrive. More than likely, it will stay open on the hotel bed until you depart.

As usual, you can see pictures and a 3D model of the bag on the Saddleback website, and you can see Dave handling the bag and commenting on it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kcf_gd-QNUQ. Also, as is par for the course, there are a number of reviews floating around on the web. The reviews on the site and on Amazon are standard SBL fare—the kind of glowing testimonials you would expect on an SBL piece.

One issue that kept coming up is whether or not it fits into the overhead bins on various aircraft. One reviewer said it did not fit “easily” into an overhead bin on an aircraft flown by Southwest, though I assume that it ultimately did fit. Another said it fit easily into an overhead bin on a Jet Blue airplane, and a flyer in a Delta MD80 did not have any issues. In the video, Dave basically says it fits until it does not, in which case it fits below your seat. Based on the dimensions on Saddleback’s website (20.25” x 10” x 11.25”), it should be well within most airline carry-on size restrictions. If you are truly worried, you can lookup the dimensions acceptable to your airline for your upcoming flight at www.seatguru.com.

For all of my complaining about the top flap, the five straps do add more security for checking the bag if it is unable to be a carry-on, and the flap is generous enough to keep out heavy precipitation (the lack of which on my Rustic Leather mailbag—despite how much I love it—plagues me).

Users also seem to disagree about the utility of the interior pocket. In the video, Dave explains that it is for muddy sandals, sweaty clothes, or seashells (basically, anything you’d rather keep separate from your other garments). I say brilliant. Cut it out if it truly bothers you. It’s supposed to be floppy, but, being constructed from that nice pigskin, the one in this bag is fairly rigid (for now).

It’s nice to see that the interior pocket is merely pigskin, and not the leather/pigskin sandwich that used to be used for literally every panel and pocket everywhere. I have an older version of the backpack, which I love, but it is quite heavy. A lot of the pigskin is just unnecessary, and it seems Saddleback has become sensitive to that. This duffle, like the newer backpacks, is constructed using a more appropriate use of pigskin (for example, the side pockets are unlined), which keeps the duffel a bit lighter.

Another deliberate aspect of the design, which I was glad to have pointed out to me, is the flat handle. I love the round briefcase handle and wish my backpack had the same. For me, it is much more satisfying to hold the rigid, round handles than the flat ones. However, they can cause problems for a bag of these dimensions when being stuffed into an overhead bin.

From a practical standpoint, this bag should have enough space for the average adult to comfortably pack for a 2-3 day trip, minus any speciality equipment or bulky warm clothing. That said, you can fit your blueprints, map tubes, or harpoons right underneath the top flap of this bag and still fasten it closed, if you run the top strap through slits designed for this purpose. The side pockets can fit about three cans of beer.

BestLeather conclusion

This is a nice bag that is excellent for travel, but does not seem designed for the everyday grind (unless yours is at 35,000 feet in between investment property visits). Aesthetically, it is a knockout and the construction is the standard robust Saddleback Leather fare.

Check out the Side Pocket Duffel on Saddleback Leather’s website here.