Victor, Author at BestLeather.org

May 26, 2014December 19, 2017

Born and Bred England Biker Wallet Review – $152

Born and Bred England is a maker of premium leather goods for both men and women. Based out of Brighton, England (about an hour south of London), the company produces goods with four simple principles in mind: style, practicality, simplicity, and durability. The company was founded in 2009 by Paul De Nagy, a Brazilian native, who is a self-taught leather craftsman. All of their goods are handmade–never by machine. The company was formed after Paul was asked by a number of his biker friends to make a wallet worthy of their travels and what he came up with was the Biker Wallet, which we will look at for this review.

PACKAGING

In the classic movie Forrest Gump, Forrest quotes his mother, saying, “There is a lot you can tell about a man by looking at his shoes … where he’s goin, where he’s been”. Similarly, you can tell a lot about a company by how they package and prepare their products to be seen for the first time. Born and Bred is one of those special companies that take the packaging of their products seriously.

When I first opened the box with the Biker Wallet inside, I was greeted by black packaging paper, neatly folded and pressed over the wallet. Upon taking off the packaging paper, I found the wallet wrapped inside a tan cloth bag, with Born and Bred’s logo imprinted on it. After pulling the wallet out, I also found a small black envelope with the standard Born and Bred guarantee card. It is a card that indicates what type of product you purchased (Style), when it was made (Born), and who it was made by (Bred).

The wallet sent to us was born on March 14th, 2014 and was made by Paul himself. It also contains an ID number specific to each product, as well as the company’s contact information and guarantee policy, which is a lifetime guarantee. This all made for an experience that was unique and pleasurable. It is an indication of a company that takes great pride in what it sells and, in my opinion, is an indication of a high quality item.

THE LEATHER

The Born and Bred Biker Wallet is indeed a high-quality item made of durable vegetable tanned leather that is four ounces thick. Vegetable tanned leather is known for its durability. The tanning process for veg tanned leather takes significantly longer than the most popular tanning method (chrome tanning), and results in a product that is arguably superior. A benefit of veg tanned leather is that it patinas well over time, meaning that the color can change slightly and often darkens a bit, which gives the leather a beautiful, worn appearance. Chrome leather does not patina; it wears.

Veg tanned leather can also be burnished, which Born and Bred did to all of the edges of the Biker wallet. Burnishing is the process of waxing the unfinished edges of leather, and then applying the leather to hardwood spinning at a very high RPM. The exposed edges tighten and become hard. It is process that takes time and effort and that many companies do not employ, but results in a more finished and refined product.

The color of the wallet is a light brown, what Born and Bred calls whiskey. The wallet also comes in black, but I have to say that I love the whiskey color. The color of the leather is also struck through, meaning that the leather has been drum dyed until the desired color saturates the leather all of the way through to the middle. It is a more time consuming process that is therefore more expensive, and again results in a superior product. As is common for vegetable tanned leather, the wallet is fairly stiff when brand new. That is to be expected and appreciated, as you will have the opportunity to soften and work the leather through continued use, like a brand new baseball glove.

STYLE

The Biker Wallet is a classic bi-fold, where you open and have a large pocket for storing your cash, receipts, or other paper. The wallet also has a coin pocket, with a snap, that is generous enough to hold a fair amount of coinage. On the other flap are two pockets for credit cards. I was able to slide a couple cards into each slot, which, as the leather stretches a bit over time, will probably hold two more if desired.

The Biker Wallet is not a minimalist wallet. It is made for hauling plenty of cash, cards and coins. It is meant for traveling on the open roads, and carrying everything you need for a trip. The only drawback to that function is that the wallet is thick. When folded over and pressed down, it is just over 1.5 inches thick. It is seven layers of beautiful veg tanned leather.

When I first pulled the wallet out of it’s packaging, I was reminded of a scene from the first Crocodile Dundee movie. A hooligan approached Dundee and his girlfriend and asked for his wallet, after pulling out a small switchblade knife. Dundee smiles and casually pulls out his huge knife (presumably the same one he has used in hunting crocodiles) and says “That’s not a knife. This is a knife”.

My first impression when I pulled this wallet out was that all of those wallets you see at department stores and retail shops are not real wallets; THIS is a wallet. It is big, but it is beautiful and very well designed. You may not want to sit on it while working on your computer for hours at a time, but if you are traveling, or on your bike, or if your job requires a lot of standing and moving around, this wallet is perfect.

THREAD AND HARDWARE

Similar to the leather used for the Biker Wallet, the thread and hardware Born and Bred uses is also premium. The thread is a waxed nylon thread, which Born and Bred waxes in house. Nylon thread is very tough, and is the type of thread that many premium leather goods makers use. The snap used for the coin pouch is solid brass, as is the small D ring on the outside spine of the wallet, which can be used for securing to a belt loop with a chain or similar tethering method.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Biker Wallet from Born and Bred England is made with premium raw materials and is expertly crafted. The wallet has plenty of style. It is fully practical. It is simple in design and once you pick it up, you immediately know that it is going to be durable. It is an excellent wallet whether you are a biker or not.

May 22, 2014December 19, 2017

Rustic Leather Replica Mailbag Review – $379

I have been using the Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag for quite some time now. I reported on my initial impression some time ago—that the bag is beautiful and practical, and could be improved by slightly widening the top flap (which Rustic Leather intends to do). Today, I offer you my full review.

bottom line

The TL;DR version of this review is simply this: this mailbag is classy, lightweight, and spacious. If the pictures and description already have you drooling and you are on the fence about whether to buy this sumptuous messenger, buy it. It feels even better in your hand than it looks in the pictures. So, if you already want it and you’re reading this like a person who asks for advice (eg. only looking to be affirmed in a predetermined course of action), then go for it. They are made in limited runs, so keep that in mind. This review will still be here when you get back.

the story

Dave, Rustic Leather’s owner and leather craftsman, took great care in developing their Replica US Mail Bag because the project is close to his heart. His uncle Walter was a mail carrier when Dave was a child living in upstate New York, and Walter’s route would bring him by Dave’s family’s house every day. Dave was mesmerized by Walter’s leather mail bag and the fact that it carried letters from around the world. Walter passed away in 2004 (four years before Dave made his first bag), and Dave’s aunt, Fran, bequeathed Walter’s old mail bag to him, which he now keeps in his office. Dave was able to use this authentic US mail bag as a model for Rustic Leather’s rendition. However, taking the dimensions of a bag is one thing, while improving on a classic design and identifying the perfect leather for the task is another. Dave added a center divider, and mounted pockets, pen loops, and a key leash to it. He also added a newspaper pocket along the posterior of the bag. For the leather, he eventually selected a golden, waxy leather from the renowned SB Foot tannery in Red Wing, Minnesota. The result, as you can see, is striking.

the leather

Rustic Leather’s Replica US Mail Bag is made from 100% full-grain 5–6oz. bovine leather. Let’s break that down. “Full-grain” leather comprises the layers of skin closest to the exterior surface of the animal. The fibers there are knit together much tighter and are naturally better aligned, which results in the highest durability of any grade of leather. Additionally, full-grain leather tends to retain some of the appearance of the actual hide itself, including impressions from veins, and sometimes scars or brands, resulting in a ruggedly handsome look and feel. However, that is not all that matters. That this leather is 5–6oz. means it is especially thick. This makes the leather more expensive because the layers just under what can be considered “full grain” cannot be sold separately as “top grain” leather. This particular leather is tanned to a vintage mustard-brown hue and finished to a smooth, waxy texture that does not mark easily. The interior is a matching suede that I find difficult to keep my hands out of.

the tannery

The SB Foot Tanning Company was originally founded by Silas Buck Foot and his partner in 1872. The urgent need for quality shoes had arisen among local farmers, to whom the company began selling moccasin-like footwear made from fur-on deer hide. Demand for their products outstripped their production, due in large part to the difficulty in sourcing quality hides, and so the cobblers forged their own upstream tanning company. During World War I, SB Foot became a popular source of leather for military footwear. Silas Buck Foot I’s unbridled passion for quality was passed down though his descendants and eventually inherited, along with his tannery, by Silas Buck Foot III.

the tanning

SB Foot still “makes it like they used to,” although they’ve also upgraded their processes with the aid of some new techniques, combining proprietary family methods that have been refined over many generations with modern technology. They receive their hides in their”wet blue” state from feedlot cattle raised in Nebraska and Texas. That means the proteins in the skins have been stabilized in a chromium salt curing process. SB Foot grades the hides internally and then shaves them. From there, hides are stained all the way through by soaking them in tree and vegetable oils and tumbling them in wooden drums. Allowing the oils and dyes to penetrate the entire thickness of the leather enhances the longevity of both quality and color. From there, each hide’s life may take a different route at SB Foot, involving various oils, waxes, or finishes to achieve one of several different characteristic sets of properties. Finished hides may then be purchased by craftsmen.

the craftsmen

Apparently, the correlation between being named Dave and being a leather-working artisan is almost as strong as the correlation between being named John or Jon and being a Reformed scholar. Rustic Leather’s own resident Dave originally got into leather work after realizing how discontented he was with the series of nylon and cheaply-made leather bags he had worn out through heavy use in business and adventure in Texas. He applied the industrial design skills he had acquired during 20+ years in the home automation industry to the creation of a one-of-kind messenger bag that could stand up to his purposes. After receiving one too many compliments on his bag, he sought out the mentorship of an accomplished leather craftsman and started Rustic Leather. Rustic Leather only produces heirloom-quality handmade leather goods, backed by their satisfaction guarantee, here in the United States, which means these pieces aren’t constructed using sweatshop labor (the leather is all sourced in the United States as well). If you are unhappy with a piece you purchased from Rustic Leather, you can return it within 14 days for a full refund

the construction

The Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag is 15” h x 11” w x 7” d, and the rear compartment snugly fits a 17” MacBook Pro. The bottom corners of the bag are rounded off, and the anterior panel widens toward the bottom where it is sort of pleated as it is sewn into the bottom panel, keeping the opening of the bag tighter and giving the whole piece a nice rounded look. I am able to fit the entire contents of my SBL backpack into it and more—which surprises me. The body comprises four panels total, which come together with additional pieces to form two interior compartments, three small pockets, a zippered anterior pocket, two pen holsters, and a key leash. There is then an adjustable/removable shoulder strap fastened onto it for transport. These pieces are all stitched together using a white, marine-grade, UV-resistant polyester thread. Polyester thread is comparable to nylon thread in terms of tensile strength, but boasts superior water resistance. While nylon stands up to exposure to water, polyester can endure frequent exposure while maintaining much of its tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, and resisting mold and mildew. Polyester is also remarkably resistant to heat (although certainly not a fire retardant—it melts at 483 degrees Fahrenheit). The rivets are composed of a high-copper alloy. Not only is copper beautiful, it is highly corrosion-resistant and “biostatic,” so bacteria will not grow on it. As it tends to be fairly ductile, it is alloyed to achieve hardness. In line with this level of quality, Dave used a trusty YKK zipper to secure the anterior pocket.

the future

I’ve already mentioned widening the top flap to keep precipitation out—an improvement Rustic Leather intends to make—but there are a couple more points.

There is a strap that stretches over the top of the laptop compartment and fastens to a nice little post on the exterior of the bag. The opening in this strap has a hole large enough to fit over the bulbous end of the post, then a slit going upward, then a smaller hole, which cannot fit over the end of the post, but which is wide enough to accommodate the base of the post. It strikes me that this should be inverted to provide a kind of locking mechanism. I can’t figure out why it is the way it is currently.

The posterior of the bag is reinforced with a bag-length ultra thick leather strip that provides structure and enhances the carrying strength of the piece, which is where the handle is riveted. The rivets penetrate several layers of leather and are exposed to the laptop compartment. Why not have the innermost layer of leather cover these to protect the wearer’s laptop from scratches?

the conclusion

This piece is definitely a “buy it for life” item, without hesitation. Even prior to knowing the backstory, I could tell that this bag was something special, from the vintage color and style, to the leather choice, to the craftsmanship. The price makes this mail bag a strong value, especially given the fact that these are made in small batches by a well-trained boutique craftsman. I will check back in after the leather has had some more time to develop a decent patina.

Check Rustic Leather out here.

May 19, 2014December 19, 2017

The Classic Bifold from Orox Leather Review – $110

Orox Leather is a family owned company in Portland, Oregon. They build a full line of cool, interesting leather goods, including a line of leather/canvas lunch bags, bags, totes, and wallets. This is their take on the bifold wallet, the Classic Bifold from Orox.

construction

The Classic Bifold is made of the renowned Chromexcel leather from Horween out of Chicago that is stitched together with nylon thread. It features cut out pockets to hold your cash and multiple cards.

function

The wallet functions as a wallet should. It is relatively thin, it has the capability of holding all of your essential cards and cash, and it fits in your back pocket without causing your spine to warp out of alignment.

At first, it was a little tight fitting all of my cards and cash, but after about a week of use, it broke in and the cards fit snugly, but not too loosely either. Perfect fit.

aesthetic

Upon first receiving this wallet from Orox, I was slightly disgruntled by the appearance. At first glance, it appears roughly cut, the edges not sanded well, and the stitching not straight. But after talking with Martin at Orox, I realized that this was actually the aesthetic they were going for — a pre-worn in, rugged, rough and rowdy look. And in this light, they achieved this aesthetic perfectly. It would not look out of place in an old western movie. After my conversation with Martin, I took a few new looks at the wallet and realized that it actually is beautiful in its ruggedness. This is a very unique aesthetic.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are looking for a ruggedly beautiful, pre-worn-in, aesthetically balanced, and well constructed wallet, then you have struck gold with the Classic Bifold. Look no further. At $110, you are getting what you pay for — a handmade wallet using high-quality materials.

May 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Thrux Lawrence – “We Make Them Like They Used To”

Tanden Launder is a simple man with unique tastes. He wears unwashed denim (and reviews it on his Insta-blog @thedenimreview), a white v-neck t-shirt, and a pair of leather work boots. His hands are worn and rough with work — man hands. Tanden is one of the hardest working people I have met, and the efforts of his hard work have culminated into what is, really, a dream and an idea from his own head: a dream of bringing American quality back to where it was way back when, in the good old days when America was putting out the highest quality goods — period. Combining American-made quality with his own style and extreme work ethic has resulted in what is today Thrux Lawrence.

A glimpse at the studio. — A glimpse of the studio.

Thrux Lawrence

Based out of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, which is my and Tanden’s home town, Thrux Lawrence is a supplier of men’s essentials. Tanden has designed his own line of bags: The Dispatch (briefcase), the Hoist (tote), the Freight (duffel), and, of course, the Thrux Pack (backpack). He also has designed a pair of 12oz Japanese denim pants (the Paladin Pant), a line of leather key fobs (the Key Post), a leather belt (the Bulwark Belt), his signature Thrux Trays, which are basically leather bowls useful for storing basic daily items, and the Drop Dopp (a Dopp bag with signature Thrux styling). Zach Black, Tanden’s only other employee, builds each piece himself; this means that the production is extremely limited and makes each bag unique. Completely handcrafted products are hard to come by these days and it is nice to see that hand-crafted philosophy carried out in such a great way with Thrux Lawrence.

Bulwark Barber

In the room adjacent to the Thrux Lawrence shop, Tanden set up a classic barber shop. The barber shop features two vintage, restored barber chairs, periodicals, a range of apothecary, and, of course, the barber himself. The barber, Matt Roerick, will supply you with a full service, including straight razor shave, shampoo, and haircut. There are not many barber shops left, but the Bulwark is easily one of the best.

the philosophy

The philosophy of Thrux Lawrence stems almost entirely from Tanden’s thoughts on what American quality should mean. Sit down with him over a cup of coffee for 5 minutes and you will have a pretty good idea of what this philosophy is: Make American quality mean what it used to mean, before the 50’s and the rise of convenience trumping quality. His philosophy is manifested in his products, which are, quite literally, the most bombproof works of art I have ever seen.

Not only are they beautiful, the Thrux Packs are some of the most durable bags available.

where to find him

If you are ever travelling through Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, be sure to stop in at his brick-and-mortar for either a shave and a trim at his Bulwark Barber, the adjacent room to his shop, or to play a game of pool, or have a chat with him and reminisce about what American quality means. 206 N. Third St., Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

His goods are also available at www.thruxlawrence.com.

May 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Lineo Rollup Parva from Orox Leather Review – $445

Orox Leather is a family owned and operated manufacturer of leather goods based out of Portland, Oregon. They feature a full line of interesting and cool leather goods, including leather/canvas lunch bags, leather/canvas backpacks, totes, wallets, and bicycle gear. This is one of their leather/canvas backpacks, the Lineo Rollup Parva in Grey.