Bison No. 2 Wallet in Navy Review – $65

Bison has been hard at work over this past year upgrading and adding to their online store of top notch American made leather goods. Since their iPhone 5 Leather Wallet was first reviewed in February, the Bison workshop has put out some new materials and colors to their growing collections. I was lucky enough to get my hands on their popular No. 2 Wallet in their newest leather option – Horween Chromexcel in Navy.

CONSTRUCTION

Like all Bison goods, this bad boy is made of the best of American leather using precise hand techniques and strict quality control.  The leather used in the construction of the No. 2 Wallet is sourced from the Chromexcel leather line of the Horween Leather Company in Chicago, Illinois or the English Bridle leather line of the Hermann Oak tannery in St. Louis Missouri. Each piece is hand constructed with only a single piece of prime leather gently folded and stitched together to create two separate compartments. There are no linings, rubber, or glue. The stitching comes with Bison’s lifetime warranty of course. All together, this wallet measures in at a sleek 3.7” × 2.5” × .1”.

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FUNCTION

This sleek wallet is designed to be minimalistic and slim – perfect for a night out or when you don’t want that awkward bulge protruding from your pant pocket. There’s really not much more to say about function because it does what it’s supposed to. It holds things.

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AESTHETIC

While the No. 2 wallet holds things in, Bison’s packaging holds nothing back. There are no cost-cutting measures when it comes to the multi-layer packaging and production.

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For something so small, you would think there’s not much to say, but here is where this wallet really stands out. The design is so simple, but you would have to be blind to miss the many little added touches that demonstrate the precision of the craftsmanship. The stitching is flawless, the edges are cut impeccably, and the weight balance is perfect. Don’t forget to look inside and catch the flash of the Bison emblem emblazoned in gold on the side.

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This particular Navy color, unique to Horween Chromexcel, is sophisticated and dressy, but has just enough pop to add some edge. There are 9 other colors if you can’t decide on just one (natural, golden tan, cognac, burgundy, brown, whisky, malbec, jet top stitch, and jet.)

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Bison No. 2 Wallet in Navy  for $65 is a must-have for Horween leather lovers. For everyone else, there are nine other color options to choose from. The decision to get this slim wallet is as simple as its design. With its sophisticated packaging and classic design, the No. 2 wallet is a well-priced gift option for you or a loved one this coming season.

 

About the Hermann Oak English Bridle Line of Leather

The Hermann Oak Leather Company is one of the premier commercial tanneries remaining in the United States.  Established in 1881 by Louis Charles Hermann to provide harness leather to wagon trains and settlers traveling west, Hermann Oak has maintained a tradition of producing high quality vegetable tanned leather.  Businesses tend to flourish when a high quality product is provided at a fair price and Hermann Oak is no exception.  As the company grew, Fred Hermann Sr. contracted with the US military to provide leather for our soldiers in both world wars.  The company segued into more consumer based products after World War II with the help of Fred Jr. and Hermann Oak today is captained by Shep Hermann, who is one of the most gracious business men I have had the opportunity of speaking to.

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Shep gladly provided several hides for Best Leather to review and work with.  We posted our first review on their Sierra Latigo line of leather several months ago, and in this review, we’ll look at their English Bridle line of leather.  We will also be looking at their Harness leather in a future review.

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VEGETABLE TANNED PERFECTION

Hermann Oak specializes in vegetable tanned leather.  With the vast majority of leather being chrome tanned, vegetable tanning is almost becoming a lost art form.  Hermann Oak is keeping this tradition of tanning leather using tree barks and other natural ingredients alive and well.  The benefits of a vegetable tanned hide are many and varied.  Vegetable tanned leather takes a patina, whereas chrome tanned leather does not.  Patina is what gives high quality leather its distinctive look and what makes a bag or wallet look better with age.

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Another significant benefit in our more environmentally conscious world is that vegetable tanning is significantly more eco friendly than chrome tanning, and it also results in a product that is moldable, than you can carve and make beautiful patterns in, and that has a slightly stiffer hand.  Vegetable tanned leather also absorbs moisture better which allows the dye color to more fully saturate the leather and form a tighter chemical bond.  Chrome tanned leather is essentially painted or pigmented with color, resulting in a product that has less color saturation.

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For this review, we took the English Bridle hide that Hermann Oak sent us and crafted a large bag (approximately 16″ Wide by 12″ High by 8″ Deep) to show some of the properties and beauties of this leather.  The leather provided was thick, approximately 9 ounces so, and was a pleasure to work with.  Vegetable tanned leather is stiffer than chrome tanned leather, but I found this a benefit when working on this bag.  Adding a slight burnish to some of the edges was a breeze and punching holes by hand and weaving the waxed polyester thread through them was a snap with the firm leather.

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The chestnut color that Hermann Oak uses is beautiful as well.  It has an earthy tone and marries well with the natural brown color on exposed edges of the leather.  You can also get Hermann Oak’s English Bridle leather in black, British brown or havana.  Most of Hermann Oak’s leathers are not struck through, meaning that the dyes are not impregnated to the middle of the leather.  This can be an issue to some consumer good producers, but many bag makers will hand dye or hand paint the edges of the leather to give it a more finished look.  This is a small tradeoff for using a thicker, finer, and more substantial leather that is bound to outlast most people.  I found that this step was unnecessary with the chestnut color for our project, especially when you burnish the edges, with the finished product looking handsome.

ENGLISH BRIDLE

English Bridle leather has a characteristic smooth finish with a hint of a waxy feel.  As the name implies, the leather was originally made for horse bridles and as a result, did not need to contain a significant amount of wax to perform effectively.  Unlike harness leather, which is impregnated with more wax to better withstand the elements, English Bridle has slightly less wax, which still helps it to be weather resistant, but is a little drier.  Their Latigo line is slightly drier still, which is characteristic of Latigo in general.

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The underside of the English Bridle hide is also quite smooth, not nearly as much as the finished outer side of course, but smooth enough that I felt adding a liner to the bag was not necessary.  Unlike certain leathers that fray or have a lot of loose fibers on the underside, this is not the case with Hermann Oaks English Bridle, which made for a nice finish on the interior of this bag.

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SUPPLY

You can order directly through Hermann Oak if you have a large enough order (typically five sides or more), or for smaller orders you can order through one of their distributors, such as Weaver Leather or Tandy.  Their customer service is excellent and they have a high knowledge of their leather and the leather industry in general.  Shep Hermann himself leads the effort of being leathercated, and takes pride in knowing and understanding the history of leather, being current on new technologies and practices, but still maintaining the art and craft of days gone by.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSTION

The Hermann Oak Leather Company produces some of the finest vegetable tanned leather in the world.  Period.  Their English Bridle line of leather is smooth, has a slight waxy finish to it, is substantial in feel and is excellent to work with.  And it is beautiful to boot.  A bag was produced from their English Bridle leather that will outlast the bag’s craftsman, but that hopefully his sons will use on many adventures of their own.  If you are in the market for some exceptional veg tanned leather, look no further than Hermann Oak.

Smith Cornejo Leather Wine Satchel- $600

Inspired by drinking red wine and riding horseback across Andalucia, this one-of-a-kind design is perfect for gifting a truly special bottle, picnics in the countryside, or slinging over your saddle horn (or bike).

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ABOUT SMITH CORNEJO

Smith Cornejo is a family business in West Virginia dedicated to functional leather goods of both rugged durability and elegance. Although they design and make some of the products from their workshop in West Virginia, most of the products are made in Guanajuato, Mexico, one of the leather making capitols. The leather is carefully sourced from gold rated tanneries. Although the leather comes from Mexican tanneries, most of the hides are from the US. Their partnership with Mexico ties into the family’s Mexican roots and their commitment to skilled workers and crafters.

CONSTRUCTION

The bag is constructed with 5-6 oz. full grain vegetable tanned leather and the straps are 7-8 oz leather. The hardware on the bag features buckles, d-rings and lobster style clasps made of solid brass. Solid copper rivets are placed stress points. The stitching is a silk thread. Lastly, the bag is fully lined with thick shearling wool. The dimensions of the bag is 13 inches tall by 6 inches wide and 5 inches deep with a single wine bottle and is about 13 inches wide by 8 inches wide and 6 inches deep when expanded to carry two bottles. Empty, the bag weighs about 3 pounds.

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FUNCTION

This tote features a design that aids in the versatility of what you can carry and how you can carry it. The bag can carry up to two standard sized wine bottle or related spirits by adjusting the to buckles on the side of the bag that extend or synch the inner compartment together. The bag closes with a lobster style brass clasp that can also be adjusted for length (for those taller bottles) with a buckle directly above the clasp.

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When carrying two bottles, they fit snuggly in the shearling lining and do not clink together while traveling (or horeseback riding).

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 This is one tough little tote with the thick leather, brass and copper hardware and the shearling lining. It defiantly is strong enough to hold more weight than just two wine bottles.

Another great feature to this bag and design is that there a few (if not more) ways to carry it. There is a sewn in handle on the back for the most basic way of handing it. There is also a clasp attached handle that has d-rings in which a longer strap is fed through and attached to two bottom d-rings. This design allows you to either carry it over the shoulder, cross body, or as a two-strap backpack mode. I found that if you are solely using it for a shoulder or cross-body, it is helpful to remove the smaller handle strap as it evens out the balance of the tote. Although a little cumbersome to take off the various straps, it is a well-designed system. Either way you do it, the bag is designed impeccably to be adjusted to comfort and carry.

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 The handles on the back create the perfect system for mounting on ones bike, horse saddle, or wall. Seeing how this piece is artfully designed, hanging it on the wall or a nice hook is a great way to show off the piece when not being used.

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AESTHETIC

When I first received this leather wine tote my initial reaction was “Wow this can’t get any fancier”. My second reaction was something along the lines of “This little tote is built solid and can be used on a mountain trek let alone a simple excursion to a friends house with wine.” Whether you plan an adventure or just want to show off a fancy (or less fancy bottle, for that matter), this bag will stand to the occasion.

My girlfriend and I took it down to a clearing in the woods where we staged an afternoon wine tasting. Although I don’t usually retreat to a clearing in the woods for a midday glass of wine, I can say that owning a bag like this just may bring out the snob in me.

The leather is tough but not too stiff, which is nice since I didn’t want to struggle getting a bottle in and out of the bag or with adjusting the straps. The shearling lining is luxury to the max. I love reaching in the bag and feeling the soft wool and imagine myself being able to crawl in there if I was much smaller.

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Besides function, this piece is really a piece of art and should be displayed as such. Again, the handle is perfect for mounting on the wall. You could even put it near your bar (if you have a bar in your house) and use it to keep your favorite scotch, spirit or other treasured bottle.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Although one might contest to the higher price I can say without hesitation that it is a solidly designed piece with no noticeable design or function flaws. I would agree that the price is high and intimidating but so is the price for any such handmade luxury item made from thick full grain leather, shearing lining, and quality hardware. I’m looking forward to the age and wear on the piece. Although meant to carry wine bottles or other spirits, it can, of course be used for various other daily carry. And when not in use, it is beautiful piece of art to hang and admire. Check it out –here-.

Marlondo Leather Co. 14″ Leather Messenger Bag – $250

Someone is going to compliment me on it today. That is something I can always count on when I leave the house carrying my Marlondo Leather Co. Messenger bag. A woman at the grocery store tells me it looks good or an older businessman asks where to find such a piece; day in day out no matter where you take it. There is no denying that it is a really great looking messenger bag and will continue to look better and better as I use it.

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When he began selling leather bags during his free time in college, founder Ma Londo decided that in order to ensure the quality of product he sold, he would need to make them himself. It has been three years since he opened up shop to craft attractive and durable products; these have been impressing the critics and buyers alike ever since.

My individual bag is a 14” messenger with laptop sleeve and detachable shoulder straps. The $250 price tag originally made me question what I was dealing with, since some pieces of comparable quality and size can be found at double the price. But after about a month and a half of daily wear and tear on my bag, I can finally confirm: this is simply a good buy.

FUNCTION & CONSTRUCTION

Thick full grain leather makes up the heft of the bag, with a pigskin liner for internal softness. By itself, the leather is not thick enough to suggest strong joints, but every weak point is riveted securely. Dog leash clasps secure the adjustable shoulder strap, and make it easy to transform into a briefcase. Though it hangs at an odd angle in briefcase form it is still useful enough to bring to the office. The shoulder strap is quite comfortable, though its leather is so thick it can be rough at first. After about a week of break in it has formed to my shoulder and keeps the bag (even when loaded down) from feeling like an anchor.

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When adjusted this strap stays whatever length you choose without lengthening during use. Much of the exterior is single stitched with semi-thick nylon thread and stress points are double stitched. My main quibble is the amount of pocket space. There is a large sleeve pocket for a 14” laptop and one smaller pocket sewn into the front of the bag, with no other place to store pens, wallet, or phone.

Small items tend to be swallowed up if they are not placed in the laptop space which might, problematically enough, be inhabited by a laptop. This should not be considered a fatal flaw, since many full grain leather bags have little accessory space; just be prepared to lose anything you do not keep in the small pocket on the front.

AESTHETIC

People will notice when you wear it in public; the look is simple and minimalistic. The full grain leather is a beautiful dark toffee colour, wearing in a little darker when it begins to form a patina. This messenger follows in the rising trend of “it looks better the more you beat it up,” which I can personally testify to. Each new scratch or blemish makes the bag a little bit more individual, a little bit more me.

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One of the most attractive factors of the leather is that it changes with the times, morphing with the wearer every step of the way. On the other hand    there are a few true visible blemishes including a bit of sloppy sewing around the base. There is little to be found except under close examination, and all handmade leather products are somewhat imperfect. Still, if you want to find imperfections in the look you can, though that is not the point.

CONCLUSION

Marlondo has produced a sturdy, boutique-style leather messenger bag built to last as long as the person who buys it. Though a little lacking on accessory pockets and space, it is otherwise intentionally designed and functional. In the $250 price range,  this is a great buy and a one of a kind bag: truly great value compared to its competitors. If you need a briefcase for the office, an everyday carry with room for your computer, an adventure pack with enough space to hold the bare essentials, or just something that will look great in and around the city, we recommend the Marlondo Leather Co. Messenger Bag. Just be sure to bring something to fit your small accessories into.

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Origins Leather Company The Simple Wallet Review – $45

For those avid readers of BestLeather.org, you’ll recognize the name, Origins Leather Company.  We recently did a review on their Classic Briefcase, and followed that review with a giveaway of the same briefcase.  The giveaway was extremely well received with over 14,000 entries, the best giveaway that BestLeather has had to date.  After the giveaway we knew that Origins had a unique recipe for producing quality goods.  That special recipe is quite simple, like many goods recipes are.  They use very high quality vegetable tanned leather and thread, crafted by experts with a high degree of precision, into a good that is practicable and useful.  That recipe is also used for their Simple Wallet, which we’ll take a look at in this review.

LEATHER

In the Classic Leather Briefcase review, I wrote that the leather Origins uses “feels as good as butter tastes”.  That same leather is used for their Simple Wallet and it feels just as great.  It is a little difficult to describe, but the leather has a soft but substantial feel.  You immediately recognize that the leather is the type that will last a long time (Origins offers a 100 year warranty on all of their products by the way), but has a certain luxury to it as well.  Origins uses a five ounce leather, which is boot leather thickness.  The leather is also slightly burnished on all edges, which gives the edges a nice finish, and it comes in a beautiful chestnut color.

The inside of the wallet is unlined, which allows you to appreciate a different element of the fine leather.  You really don’t need a wallet to have a liner of course, but I also appreciate bags and other goods that are unlined.  There is something about the underside of finished leather that is tactile and fulfills some sensory need to fully appreciate the raw material something is made from.  In other words, I like how it feels.  There certainly are some applications where having a liner of some variety is appropriate, and often it is used for aesthetic purposes, but when it’s not completely necessary, I say let it be.  Perhaps it is because I am a leather purist at heart.  When you use leather as nice as Origins, this certainly is a great way to produce your products.

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DESIGN

The Simple Wallet is as its name implies – simple.  It has one open compartment for stashing your cards and bills.  You can fit at least 10 cards along with some bills comfortably, so it has ample room for what most people need.  The top flap slides securely into the attached strap and the wallet can fit nicely into either a front or back pocket.  When opened, you will notice a small scoop that allows for easier grasping of your cards or bills.

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The Simple Wallet is made from four pieces of leather.  The main body and flap are made from one solid piece, one piece for each side, and the front strap.  Its construction reminds me of how many quality messenger bags are made.  The two side pieces are sewn to the main body with a small flap on bottom of each side piece riveted to the bottom of the wallet.  This manner of construction produces a very hardy and durable wallet and forces the wallet to have a more open pocket.  This could be a benefit to some as it makes sliding cards in and out easier, and also provides more room for additional cards and bills, but could be a drawback to some as it produces a wider footprint.  The rivets at the bottom prevents the wallet from flattening out completely, especially if you only had a couple of cards and wanted a slimmer profile for example.  This makes the wallet a full half inch in width, and provides a rigid bottom, but that is still slimmer than many wallets.

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THREAD AND HARDWARE

The only hardware to speak of on the wallet are the two previously mentioned rivets.  They are approximately 1/4 inch in diameter, with a dark antique finish, and are solid brass.

The thread is a marine grade polyester thread with a brown color that matches the wallet nicely.  Polyester thread is three to four times as strong as nylon thread, and will not fade when exposed to sunlight.  It is some of the best thread that can be used for high quality leather goods.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

In a world with ever increasing options for minimalistic wallets, the Simple Wallet from Origins Leather Company is a very strong contender.  Made with some of the best leather I’ve seen, leather that is struck through (dyed to the core of the leather), is beautiful to see and feel, and crafted with precision and attention to detail, the Simple Wallet is an excellent choice for those seeking a simpler approach to carrying their daily essentials.

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The Strap Smith’s Italian Vintage Style Watch Strap Review – $189

So you got yourself that fancy watch you have always wanted. As time goes on, you wonder what could you do to make it just a little more special. Unfortunately, the majority of wristwatches that do not come on metal bracelets are accompanied by leather straps that don’t speak to the quality of the watch they are securing. Getting a custom band can quickly remedy this problem by making that watch look like a million.

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There are many custom strap makers online, but few have as good a reputation among watch lovers as The Strap Smith. Robert Farrington, better known as Rob Montana is the man behind the operation. Each of his straps are hand cut, stitched, and finished, creating a truly unique strap that is worthy for a priceless timepiece.

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Construction

Right from the start I could tell the difference between Rob’s strap and the mass produced strap that was already on my watch. The leather is extremely thick Italian leather with the straight and even stitching and high quality, brushed hardware.

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There is only one area where the stitching varied, but it is such a small amount that I realized it only after a close inspection. I was most surprised by the superior quality edge finishing compared to the old strap. Clearly, Rob takes a lot of time getting these straps perfect.

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Function

Without much trouble, I was able to quickly get The Strap Smith’s band on. What I’ve found with a lot of thick straps is that they are a bit cumbersome and never really break in. This wasn’t the case with Rob’s watchband. After a week of wear, the strap comfortably conformed and my watch rested neatly on my wrist. Unlike most bands, Rob’s hasn’t shown any sign of breaking down after repeated buckling and unbuckling giving me a feeling that this strap will be in my arsenal for many years to come.

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Aesthetic

Getting a well-made custom band makes any watch shine. Rob’s does this exceptionally well. I went for the Italian Vintage style because of the unique, but subtle texture. It works perfectly on my Omega Seamaster.

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The robust size of the strap compliment the tool watch and the subtle texture and fine finish work bring out the classy, more refined side of the watch. Even the large buckle and holes, which at first struck me as too big, give the watch more character than any of my previous straps.

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BestLeather Conclusion

The Strap Smith makes one amazing strap. Not many makers provide the leather selection, the craftsmanship or the care that Rob puts into each one of his straps.

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Although the price may seem steep to most outside of the watch enthusiast world, the quality of the product and the aesthetic value that it adds to any watch makes it more than worth it. On top of it all, Rob provides great customer service and will answer any question you have.

If you are looking to upgrade the look of your watch or give it more security on your wrist, check out The Strap Smith here.

Satch & Fable 13″ Leather Satchel W/Pocket Review – $139

Twelve years ago in India, Fabrizio Giuliani, an Italian teaching English to Tibetan monks, found a guy making “cheap” leather bags to tourists. Falling in love with unique qualities of the leather, he decided to use that leather to create his own bags with enhanced durability and construction techniques. Satch & Fable bags are created using the Buddhist concept of Wabi-sabi which finds natural beauty in imperfection and impermanence.

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CONSTRUCTION

The most unique aspect of this satchel is the full-grain goat leather. Goat leather is naturally lighter and more water-resistant than cowhide.  Fabrizio describes this leather as Moroccan leather. Although this leather is actually from India, it is tanned using traditional Moroccan techniques. “Traditional” Moroccan leather tanning is not nearly as pleasant nor easy compared to mechanized Western techniques. In a nutshell, the leather is arduously hand-washed at least five times. At the fourth wash, the leather is “shampooed” to remove odors (from what I’ve learned, this is the ESSENTIAL step). The leather is then gently dried in the sun for 2 hours, re-wet, and then hand-rubbed. Goatskins are smaller than cowhide so up to two goatskins are used to make a single bag. Because of the sourcing and traditional tanning methods, no two bags will ever be alike.

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The goats are raised and sourced locally from Rajasthan, and the tanned skins are brought to the village workshop for construction. There are only 3-5 local workers who produce these bags by hand. The brass buckles and rivets are also from India. Vintage sewing machines are used to place the cotton stitching.

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Satch & Fable 13” Satchel with Front Pocket (on bottom) and Satch & Fable Pouch ( on top)

FUNCTION

This satchel breaks all the rules. It does not have a 100-year warranty. It is not made from military grade materials or imported fabrics from Italy or France. It will not stop a bullet for you. This bag is not 10 lbs.  This bag is a lightweight, casual alternative to the rugged beast bags out there. My particular satchel is 13’’x10’’x5’’ although various size options are available.  It comes with three internal compartments with a padded one just for your laptop, two zippered pockets, and an external front pocket. This featherweight entry to the satchel arena is a welcome reprieve to the pounding that my shoulder has taken from my full-grain cowhide briefcase that I use for work.

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AESTHETIC

Who knew imperfect could be so beautiful? You can see every blemish on these tanned goatskins but they are subtle and gorgeous. This bag is not pretentious nor does it try to be something it’s not. This is one of those kids you hated in college – someone who doesn’t have to try, but always looks good and grabs all the attention. Out of the bag, it seems like a bag that has been loved for many years but there’s still years worth of aging and patina left for you to do on your own. There are darkened shadows and creases at just the right spots. The leather is so soft and light yet tough. According to the Wabi-sabi concept on the website, there may be an imperfect stitch here or there, but I can’t find a single one.

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Here’s my favorite part – you really have no idea exactly what your bag will look like before you get it. Because of the traditional hand-tanning method, your bag’s leather may look COMPLETELY different than the next one. Opening up the bag is like opening up a Christmas gift or pulling a fish out of water.

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Yes, these are the exact same bags made of the same type of leather.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Satch & Fable 13’’ Leather Satchel with Pocket at $139 is a welcome alternative to the heavy full-grain cowhide bags flooding the new-entry market. It won’t break your back and it won’t break your bank. This bag is perfectly imperfect. If you’re looking for a beautiful broke-in bag that can save you several years worth of patina this is it. Consider PaydayMint if you’re in a financial bind and want Satch & Fable bags.

Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Sharkskin Belt Review – $450

As previously featured in the Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet Review, Andrew Diba is a Canadian leather designer who prides himself on meticulous quality construction using the highest grade of materials. When an individual leathermaker is showcased along reputable companies such as Rolex, BMW, and LG in Sharp Magazine’s (the Canadian GQ) spring and summer fashion guide, he must be doing something right. This sharkskin belt is a fine example of an unexpected exotic leather put to good use. Continue reading “Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Sharkskin Belt Review – $450”

Christensen Bags No. 7 Platypus Satchel Review – $225

The lowly platypus just doesn’t get enough recognition in this world with the likes of lions, tigers and bears roaming around.  That’s a shame because the platypus is a fascinating creature.  Endemic to Australia, including Tasmania, the platypus is one of just a few venomous mammals with seemingly more in common with a Tasmanian devil than with a duck. The days of the platypus staying in obscurity are soon to vanish though with the Platypus series of satchels by Christensen Bags.  A waxed canvas and leather goods company based in San Francisco, California, Christensen Bags makes high quality goods with a focus on minimalism inspired by Danish mid-century Modern aesthetics.  BestLeather was able to review one of their minimalistic satchels, the No. 7 Platypus.

 

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MATERIALS

A bag is only as good as what it is made out of.  Christensen understands this and chooses to work with some of the best materials available.  They source their leather exclusively from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, which was established in 1905.  They obtain their waxed canvas from Martin Dyeing and Finishing, which was established in 1838.  The No. 7 is a combination waxed canvas and leather bag.  The outside of the bag is made from a natural, khaki colored waxed canvas, while the interior is a black waxed canvas.  The black interior is a smart move as the interior of a bag tends to attract marks, smudges, and stains.  If you are unfamiliar with waxed canvas, it is smooth material where the wax is not readily apparent.  The wax is impregnated into the canvas as a means of waterproofing the material.

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It has become a popular material to use in the higher end bag market, where cost is a factor.  Combining waxed canvas with high quality leather produces a super durable and classy combination.  If you’re not into that combination and prefer all leather bags, then Christensen has you covered and you can get their No. 3, which is an all Dublin leather satchel with the same design.

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I have to say that the leather used for the flap of this bag is impressive.  Named Dublin by the Horween Tannery, character comes built into this leather.  The leather has a similar pull up affect as Horween’s famous Chromexcel leather, but is all vegetable tanned, which means it will develop a beautiful patina with use.  The leather is also thicker than most high quality leather bags and definitely thicker than boot leather.  The underside of the leather is unlined, which I think is beautiful, and is also very smooth, an indication of a high quality leather.  The same Dublin leather is used for accents as well, namely for the D-rings on either end of the bag, for the flap closure on the front of the bag and for the interior pen holders.

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METAL AND THREAD

Keeping to their minimalist vision, there is not a lot of hardware on the bag.  The D-rings and the lobster clasps on the strap are all solid brass with an antique finish, which marries well with the look of the bag.  The materials are all sewn together with strong and durable no 128 bonded nylon.  The perimeter of the flap of the bag is sewn with a dark brown nylon.  Technically the thread is not necessary as it doesn’t combine two materials and is purely aesthetic.  Personally, I like the look and think that provides a nice finish, but some might prefer the stitch less look.

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DESIGN

Minimalism is an important focus for Christensen and the No. 7 is no exception.  The bag is an appropriate size for a satchel, but is not a large bag.  Measuring 14.5″ wide by 10″ high, by 2 1/4″ deep, the bag is meant to carry the essentials and not much else.  Large enough for a 13″ laptop (my 13″ Macbook Air with case fit snugly), a notebook cover, an IPad or other electronic device, and some accessories, and you’re good to go.

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The most noticeable feature of the bag is the obvious play off of our lowly platypus with a wide 3″ “bill” that inserts snugly into the front loop and is secured with a single button rivet.  The look is surprisingly reminiscent of a platypus, but is still classy and sophisticated.  There is something satisfying with not having to tangle with any buckles and clasps when opening or closing your bag.  Unbuttoning and sliding out the flap is quick and easy and refastening it is the same.  In using this bag, I never felt that the contents of the bag were unsafe with this closure.  The bill fits snugly into the loop and stays there.  The size of the bag helps with this as you’re not lugging around a significant amount of goods.

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Neil, co-founder of Christensen Bags, takes prototyping very seriously.  He tests and tweaks their designs, and uses the prototype until he feels it is perfect.  He developed their No. 1 satchel to shuttle his necessities from work to home and wanted to sell something that he would love and use.  He has currently been carrying a wallet prototype around for the past year, making notes along the way to ensure the perfect product.  This fastidious focus on design is apparent in the goods they sell.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The No 7. platypus satchel from Christensen Bags is minimalists dream.  It is lightweight, has one main compartment to carry your essentials and opens and closes with ease.  It is made from high quality materials made by companies with long histories, and is designed to carry your goods in style.  The price of $225 is right for a smaller bag made of premium materials and is designed well.  Perhaps best of all, No Platyplus’ were harmed in the making of this review, or the making of this bag.  We recommend the No. 7 from Christensen.

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Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197

Here’s a review of a beautiful piece that caught my eye from a designer and leatherworker on etsy from Australia. Melanie Hudson of Matoirs Leather Products has been selling handmade and hand tooled leather bags for about 2 years now but working with leather since she was very young, assisting her father binding leather books. Her etsy shop features vintage style handbags that are hand tooled or hand painted with detail and rich beautiful colors. Continue reading “Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197”

Horween Leather Company and Thrux Lawrence All Leather Thrux Pack – $990

In the not too distant past, BestLeather received a hide of the Horween Leather Company’s latigo leather, in a chestnut color.  Thinking of one of the best places we could take the hide to and develop it into something beautiful and functional, we immediately thought of Thrux Lawrence of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.  We asked them to craft something fine from the leather so that we can showcase Horween’s latigo leather and something fine they indeed crafted.

Tanden Launder, the proprietor of Thrux Lawrence, took the project a step further and crafted something new for them, an ALL leather Thrux Pack.  They craft many of their thick 24 ounce canvas and latigo leather Thrux Packs, which are beautiful and extremely rugged, and which they sell online and at their brick and mortar store in Coeur d’Alene, but they had yet to make an all leather Thrux Pack.  This was a serendipitous opportunity to try something a little new.

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HORWEEN LEATHER COMPANY

The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween.  The company has remained in family hands (currently run by Arnold “Skip” Horween, Isadore’s great grandson) ever since and is now the last remaining tannery in the Chicago area, and one of the few remaining industrial tanneries in the United States.  Horween’s first product was shell cordovan for razor strops.

After the invention of the electric razor and the subsequent reduced demand for razor strops, Horween recognized the need to diversify it’s leather portfolio.  The result has been some fine leathers, and some tanning recipes that are still being used today, decades later (think Chromexcel).

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Avid readers of BestLeather will be very familiar with the name Horween.  The simple reason for this is that many, many of the leather companies whose products we review use Horween’s leather.  And the simple reason for that is because Horween produces some of the finest (if not the finest) leather for consumer goods.  Their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan probably get the most attention in the realm of high quality leather goods, but one line of leather that needs a little more recognition is their Latigo line of leather.

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ABOUT THE LATIGO LINE OF LEATHER

Tanden with Thrux swears by latigo leather.  In my conversations with him he has repeated that latigo is the time tested leather, and of course he is correct.  Latigo is a form or method of tanning leather.  Traditionally tanned from cowhide, latigo is normally combination tanned, usually chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned, which is how Horween still does it.  Latigo has traditionally been used for horse tack, namely for saddle cinches.  The reason for this is the durable nature of latigo.  It is tanned in a way that makes it more stiff than many of your luxury leathers, with less stretch, and as a result is more durable.  This is the main reason that Thrux Lawrence prefers latigo, its durable nature.

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Another benefit in using Horween’s latigo is that their leather is struck through.  This means that after tanning the hide, the hide is then dyed with the color of choice, and they allow the dye to penetrate through the entire hide.  Many tanneries simply dye the exterior of the leather, but when cut into you see either a blue strip running through the middle of the leather (in the case of chrome tanned leathers), or a light brown strip (in the case of vegetable tanned leather).  For the purposes of luxury consumers goods, this is unacceptable.  Striking the leather through is more time consuming and expensive, but Horween doesn’t take any shortcuts and that shows in their leather.

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ABOUT THE ALL LEATHER THRUX PACK

Like all of Thrux Lawrence goods, the All Leather Thrux Pack is ridiculously tough and overbuilt, which is just the way I like it.  This particular Thrux Pack uses two different colors and weights of latigo.  Horween provided BestLeather a chestnut hide that is four to five ounces in weight.  This hide was used in the construction of the main body of the Thrux Pack, as well as the internal computer sleeve and pocket.  Thrux used a darker brown latigo leather from Horween that is eight to nine ounces in weight for the shoulder straps, the top flap and straps, the handle, and their signature bucket tray, or bottom of the bag.  Eight to nine ounce latigo leather in an of itself is thick and extremely rugged.  Thrux takes that thick leather and doubles it for the shoulder straps and handle.  The result is one hardy backpack that is bound to last generations.

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To combine all of this beautiful and sturdy leather, Thrux uses very durable bonded nylon thread.  For this Thrux Pack, they used a white thread which contrasts nicely against the chestnut colored leather.  Note the double stitching for increased durability on the shoulder straps as well as the bottom tray, another indication of attention to detail.  The hardware used for the buckles is solid brass.  The zippers used are oversized, solid brass, YKK Zippers.  And the rivets used to further secure the leather are solid brass rivets and burrs.

I stated in a previous article written for BestLeather that solid copper rivets are the toughest rivets you can use for leather, but I was mistaken.  As brass is a combination of tin and copper, which results in a much harder metal than copper, solid brass rivets are much tougher than copper.  The use of solid brass over solid copper rivets is indicative of Thrux Lawrence’s approach to leather crafting.  They use only the very best materials in the making of their bags and goods.

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With a lot of thick, sturdy latigo leather, the All Leather Thrux Pack is going to take some time to break in and be comfortable.  On the flip side, after you use the bag for work or travel, you know your kid will be able to use it for college and work, and their kid will be able to do the same.  The bag is that well made and the Horween leather that durable.

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BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

The All Leather Thrux Pack from Thrux Lawrence is a ridiculously well made bag.  The choice of using latigo leather from the Horween Leather Company is the best choice.  Latigo is time tested, is very durable, and Horween’s latigo is struck through and beautiful.  $990 may seem like a lot to put down for a backpack and it is.  But this really is not any ordinary bag.  The attention to detail, the use of the best possible and most durable materials, and the quality craftsmanship means this is an investment in an heirloom quality good.  The use of Horween’s latigo means you’re also getting the best quality leather that is used by the best leather companies in the United States and beyond.  BestLeather definitely recommends the All Leather Thrux Pack and could not speak more highly of Horween’s latigo leather.

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Vicenzo Titan X Leather Briefcase Review – $229

Vicenzo Leather is a leather company based out of Houston, Texas. Desgned in the USA and manufactured in China, Vicenzo fuses together European design with western style, craftsmanship and materials. Besides briefcases, Vicenzo makes messenger bags, wallets, duffel bags, and other handbags.

The Titan X is the newest addition to Vincenzo’s line and is an updated version of their previous Titan briefcase. The Titan X features more pockets and compartments to help with convenience and organization.

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Construction

The Titan X briefcase is constructed of full grain pebbled leather with a durable denim interior, brass buckles, snaps, leather reinforced seams on the inside, nylon thread stitching and zippers. The bag measures 16.5″ length x 12″ high and 5″ deep. Empty the bag weighs about five pounds.

The front of the bag features 6 compartments – two with magnetic snap closures and four with zipper closures. There are two main inner compartments with zipper closures. The front most compartment has a space for a laptop or portfolio with a velcro secured leather tab to secure. The back compartment is one large space with no dividers but has two pockets on the inner side for small items as well as two pen slots. Against the outer wall is another zippered pocket. The back exterior of the bag has one zippered pocket. To carry the bag, there are two snap removable handles on either side as well as one non removable handle directly on top of the bag. Lastly, The bag has a removable and adjustable shoulder strap made of nylon and leather with a leather shoulder pad.

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Function

As noted above, this is a larger sized briefcase with a lot of handy pockets, pouches and other features. Any business traveler will agree that all the pockets are handy to keep things such as travel documents, small electronics and chargers, pens, small notebooks, and various other tools. The main compartments can hold several books, laptops, electronics and other tools. The bag can also hold some spare clothes making this a suitable overnight bag as well.

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Aesthetic

My initial reaction to receiving the bag was that the color was not at all matching the color on the website. The website has the bag in a lighter and more weathered brown leather where the bag is actually a very solid dark brown. Also the pebble grain on the bag was not noted on the website. I felt slightly disappointed at first and felt the bag and company lacked quality. The bag had an off smell not like that of other nostalgic brand new leather smells I know and love. The denim cloth interior was also not noted on the website.

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I’m not a huge fan of the fake snap buckles on the front two pockets but one might see the as a convenience if they need to get in and out of the pockets quickly. A few times already the snap has opened by rubbing up against something or catching on another object.

A great thing about this bag is that it is a lightweight bag (empty). I was able to have two small laptops, a full-sized portfolio, and a spare change of clothes for an overnight business trip without putting too much of a strain on my shoulder.

What seems as a design flaw is the overall imbalance of the bag with the use of the shoulder strap. The d-rings for the detachable shoulder strap are too low causing the bag to be top heavy when carried with the shoulder strap and in result, is very uncomfortable and awkward.

Another complaint that I have is that the shoulder strap seems a little flimsy and is already showing signs of fray around the edges. Having had several nylon shoulder strap bags in the past, I can say I am not a fan of them fraying and falling apart more quickly than most. Also the shoulder pad is a mere thin piece of leather with no real padding or comfort features. This may not be deal breaker for some since the overall lightweight yet spacious and pocket loaded nature of the bag is great. I would see myself buying a stronger and more durable strap to change over down the road.

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BestLeather Conclusion

I would not have purchased this bag in person at the price listed. To me it seems a tad high. The pictures and lack of description on the website was misleading to me. However it is a convenient, spacious, and lightweight bag that may suit the needs to a busy traveler. It is also, as previously mentioned, a nice size bag to carry clothes in for an overnight or light weekend trip. Check it out –here-.

15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st

It’s sale time at AE and they are clearing the goodies out. Everything is between 15% and 35% off, but you already knew that. You can find good deals on the Allen Edmonds website and in their retail locations in the midwest. There are currently 49 shoes on sale.

If these sale prices are still too steep for your pocketbook than I recommend checking out this post on how to buy high end shoes at a larger discount on Ebay. My best purchase was a $650 pair of Alden Shell Cordovan shoes for $60. I will wear them today and for many days to come. Continue reading “15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st”

Paul Evans Grey Belt Review – $149

Over the past few years, the online market for dress shoes has proliferated, but few companies produce anything that can stand toe-to-toe with the likes of Alden, Allen Edmonds, and Crockett and Jones. Paul Evans is one of the few. Frustrated with the limited offering of stylish and affordable shoes from traditional manufactures, Ben Earley and Evan Fript set out to design a well-constructed, stylish shoe for a reasonable price. All of their shoes are hand built in Italy using Italian calfskin and are finished with a sleek Blake construction. But, I’m not here to talk about their shoes. They also provide belts and I have to say, they are pretty slick.

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Construction

The belt is handmade from thick, fine Italian leather, uses heavy-duty thread for stitching and is finished with a solid brass buckle. Everything about the construction screams durability and style, but the craziest part is that the belt is cut-to-fit. When I heard this, I immediately had images of the dual sided belts from the discount store come to mind, but once I realized how it worked, I was pleasantly surprised.

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What Paul Evans does is very tasteful. The buckle is a separate assembly that connects to the rest of the belt with a hefty Chicago screw. The part that is cut off is hidden between the buckle assembly, which gives the belt a seamless unity. Of course, this means that the owner must cut his new belt and then punch a hole for the screw or take it to a shoe shop to have them fit it for you. Even though the build quality is top notch and the materials are excellent, for the price, I would like the belt to fit me before it comes to my door. The design is ingenious and definitely allows Paul Evans to provide customers with more selection, but having measured or made-to-order belts available instead would definitely increase the value.

Function

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The belt from Paul Evans held up my trousers with style. Outside of doing exactly what a belt is supposed to do, its surprising thickness gave me confidence that I will be wearing it for many years to come without much worry of the leather breaking down.

Aesthetic

Paul Evans did a great job with this belt. The color is rich and deep and the look can be dressed up or down with relative ease making it incredibly versatile. On mine, the Chicago screw is exposed and the stitching is very noticeable making it a little bit harder to wear in extremely formal settings, but adds class to an otherwise casual look. The only part of the belt that looks rough is on the backside where some dye has bled through the stitching. Both of these issues are minor and probably have been remedied since their newer offerings have covered the screws and down played the stitching for a sleeker look.
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Conclusion

Paul Evans makes one mean belt. By putting together great styling with quality materials, this is one is tempting, but for the price, I would like to have it ready to wear as soon as I got it. If you do not mind the extra work and your are looking for dress belt that stands out, check out the selection on their site. While you are at it, spend some time drooling over their shoes.

Check out Paul Evans at www.paulevansny.com

35% Off Select Saddleback Leather Products

Saddleback Leather is clearing out their inventory of discontinued or slow moving items. I haven’t seen a sale like this before and they claim they won’t do another for the foreseeable future. 35% off on a leather product is very significant considering the high cost of making these bags. On top of the 35% off Saddleback Leather is also offering free shipping on orders over $200

Use the code PIGSFLY on the items on their sale page for the 35% off these certain items.Screen Shot 2014-09-29 at 8.14.16 PM

Classic Briefcase in carbon (black) – $369 to 431

Beast Duffel (!) in carbon – $589

Thin Briefcase in carbon – $299 to $308

Side Pocket Duffel in carbon – $425

Front Pocket Briefcase in carbon – $377

Leather Bible Cover in various colors – $26 to $28

Leather Suitcase in carbon – $685 to $764

Thin Front Pocket Briefcase – $310

 

 

 

 

 

 

 What do you think?

Mascon Leather Custom Leather Chef Knife Roll Review – $650

A chef’s knives are almost as important as their hands. Chefs use their hands to hold their knives, precisely cut the plate’s components, and present the diner with a reflection of their skill and essentially themselves. When I approached Artie Shell, owner of Mascon Leather, to make a custom leather knife roll that would both showcase and protect my valuable tools, Artie applied the similar expertise with his hands to create a piece of precision and presentation to not only protect my knives, but to compliment and showcase them.

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Artie Shell has been crafting handmade leather pieces in Williamsburg, Virginia since early 2011. What originally started as a hobby to make more durable book covers, knife sheaths and cell phone covers for his kids has since turned into a more serious and dedicated business. He named his company Mascon Leather after his family’s business, ‘Mas-Con Construction’ (masonry and concrete), started by his grandfather. Although Artie’s grandfather has passed on, his legacy and pride for family and hand-built items lives in Artie’s leatherwork. Sourcing the best leather hides, thread, and tools available, Artie designs custom one-of-a-kind pieces including wallets, knife sheaths, axe covers, knife/tool rolls, and messenger bags with the upmost attention to detail and customer consultation. Each piece is designed to be timeless and constructed to age beautifully. Artie also currently contributes and works with a growing leather community on Facebook. For the short time Artie has been working with leather, I am sure I am not alone when I say he has accelerated in his craft and far exceeded the expertise to a professional leatherworker.

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Construction

This particular knife roll is made from almost one whole hide of 5.0 oz (2 mm) weight English Dublin tan Horween leather. The hardware features 80 solid copper rivets and nickel plated brass hardware including 2 buckles with strap keeps, lobster-style clasps for the removable shoulder strap and a buckle on the shoulder strap with two strap keeps and d-rings. The stitching on the inside business card slot and gadget pouch is a high quality polyester thread. There is also an exposed aluminum bar on the underside of the handle for additional support.

Once unrolled, there are 12 knife/tool slots (including 2 small inverted ones towards the top), a business card slot, a pen or thermometer slot, a slot for a utility kitchen scraper, and a removable (snaps in and out) gadget pouch with d-rings on the back (to hang from a oven handle or pot rack).

The knife roll dimensions are 20 inches long x about 7 inches wide when rolled and when unrolled is 35 inches long x 7 inches wide. Without anything in it the case weighs about 5 pounds.

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Lastly, the leather knife roll has a handle on top and a removable and adjustable cross body shoulder strap.

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Function

This leather knife roll is extremely functional as my main knife case to use for a job. Sometimes in small work areas it is a bit awkward to unroll and reroll because of its size, and takes getting adjusted to.

Deep leather pockets with rivet dividers were custom cut and made to my knife specifications. The knives point downward with the handles exposed rather than the handles in the pockets and the blades exposed for reasons I’ll discuss in the aesthetic section of this review.

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The inside gadget pouch holds about 3-5 tools (depending on size) and closes with a simple flap tuck design. Again, the gadget pouch is removable and is easy to snap in and out of the knife roll.

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To say the only function of this leather roll is to hold and protect my knives is a crime. This bag is more like a piece of art or a fashion accessory that also happens to carry knives and tools. Expect to get a lot of head turns and compliments when going out with a piece like this.

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Aesthetic

No amount of words can describe seeing this piece in person. I unwrapped it similarly (if not more carefully) to a kid on christmas.

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The piece with its various stretch, pull-up marks, scars, and hardware components is a heavy duty industrial strength piece of equipment. It has some serious heft as one would expect in a full grain leather piece and when full of knives, it is even heavier. Long walking commutes may be straining on one’s shoulder and back. It definitely takes time to get used to but in my opinion I like the heaviness of it. It shows quality and durability.

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The pockets on the inside hold my knives very snug and securely with a little room incase I was to replace a knife (I will NEVER have to replace the knife roll) or a tool down the road in my profession. A debate that may arise with chefs is the decision to put the blades into the pockets with the handles pointing out rather than the other way as many other knife cases are designed. I chose this so my knives were more protected and less likely to hit against each other in travel. A concern I had as well was if the blades would rub against the rivets that are separating the pockets and damage the blade over time. Artie quickly assured me that the space between the rivets and the leather was significant that it would never be an issue. He even drew me a picture. Of course, Artie can design the pockets to hold the handles with the blades facing up if that is what you prefer.

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The knife roll unfolded features a large flap that covers the knives before being rolled. The large flap is left rustic, without a finished edge for style. I really love the edge as this is how the hide was originally. Others may prefer to have this edge finished and Artie is happy to accommodate. Another concern I had with the flap is that it did not fasten to the knife roll and therefore it was hard to align it just right to roll the case evenly every time.  Artie told me that the leather will be stiff for a bit but with more use it will form like a glove and soften up to make this task easier.  After 2 months of use I already see this happening.

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I requested a gadget pouch in the knife case because like other chefs I carry around various vegetable peelers, pastry brushes, wine openers, or other knick knacks that need a home too. Artie took this idea and made it even better than I could imagine. Not only did he create a perfect sized pouch but he made it removable with snaps and attached small d-rings to the backside to hang if desired. This idea is incredibly cool! It is very convenient to remove that pouch and keep it handy on my work station than to have to keep unrolling and re rolling to fetch a small tool.

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This is not just a knife roll though, it’s a chef briefcase. Nothing screams professional and class more than this leather knife roll does. To that extent, this is not the case you’ll want to take everywhere. Being that it is heavy and large, it may not be the tool case for a job in a small and busy kitchen. It’s comparable to a nice pair of leather shoes or boots – you wear them on a fancy or professional related situation and you aren’t going to necessarily wear them to a soccer game, a picnic, or a muddy day.

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 Customization

I’ll say it here and say it boldly-Artie Shell is one of the most personable, friendly, and accommodating custom craftsmen that I have ever had the pleasure to work with. Artie first set up an initial phone call to gauge what type knife roll I wanted, the size, and functionality. An experience you may find close to this may be a custom suit taylor or shoe maker. After I sent Artie the dimensions of all my knives and tools I wanted to carry in the leather roll, Artie immediately began to draw up ideas and shoot me input and questions through emails. It was a fun process seeing the stages of Artie’s work and being able to have constant input on different options along the way. I could tell from the beginning that Artie wanted to put as much time and dedication into my knife roll to make me 200% happy and satisfied.

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It was a throughly enjoyable experience to converse with Artie over the phone and through emails (about 50 or so). A great relationship formed between the two of us, the mind of a chef and the mind of leatherworker. Here are a few of my favorite converses between us:

Artie: “No rush! This means nothing to anyone but me, but since we’re sharing…The scariest part or the WHOLE process is making that first cut into a solid 20 + Square foot hide of genuine Horween leather. It’s nerve racking. but once it’s done, the fun begins because you can’t turn back.”

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Artie: “Another oddity about leather crafters- it’s so hard to toss scraps, no matter the size. I think, ‘There HAS to be something I can do with that, somewhere!’ or ‘If I toss this out today, I’m going to wish I had it next week!’ Yeah…we’re looney, us leather folks.”

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Artie: “Meant to ask: How do you feel about scars showing? Some hate it, others love it. got a piece here with a gorgeous scar I’d like to try to put on the strap. Or I can avoid it.

Me: “I like the scars. It’s real leather.”

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Artie: “I woke up in the middle of the night with the fear that I’d forgotten something. I forgot to put my company hang tag on the knife roll before I sent it. I’ve made about 59,000 items and put a tag on every one of them. then the flagship knife roll comes along, and I forget.

Me: “59,000 items in 3 years?? All yourself?!

Artie: “Well it feels like that for the amount of dedication and passion I put into each one of them. I rounded upward a tad (a lot).”

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Artie: “Been meaning to ask: did you want your initials branded on the bag?”

Me: “No it’s not necessary. I’ll know it’s mine. As will very one else.”

Artie: “Nice one! That made me laugh out loud!”

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BestLeather Conclusion

This product, like any other high quality leather pieces, may be considered a serious investment to some. With a price tag of $650 it is just that. The quality, durability, customization and time that goes into a piece like this is, in my opinion, well worth it.

Artie’s open line of consultation, willingness to try new things and get creative really speaks to the similar mind of a chef. As any chef will tell you, it starts with an idea and then a lot of preparation. The same hold’s true in Artie’s work. To own a custom leather knife roll from Mascon Leather speaks highly of the level of a chef and their professionalism.

Check it out here.

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Shoe Passion #591 “Double Monk” Shoe Review – $281

These shoes smell delicious. I’m not sure why that still stands out to me but the pleasure of their aroma is notable. It reminds me of a sweet woody smell with a factory twist. Though it seems strange to say the flavor is distinctly German. Dubbing themselves “The Berlin Shoe Brand,” SHOEPASSION is one of few German shoe manufacturers still making classics. Their heels are still produced in the recently featured Rendenbach factory from traditional designs and attached to contemporary shoes that feature modern technology. The “passion” poured into their craft is clear in their lovingly constructed website chock full of information and guides to selecting and maintaining shoes, a passion that is true to the company’s name. Zeal for product however is seldom enough to justify a $280 price tag, but a shoe like the #591 double monk-strap can stand on its own merit.

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SWORDS MAKE EVERYTHING BETTER

CONSTRUCTION

They are suitably well built. Monk straps shoes are formed in a similar manner to derbys meaning that the last is separated into two parts where the eyelets would be but are here covered with the strap. Flexible and well shaped, the strap is a sturdier alternative to laces and additionally strengthened by the use of metal buckles. These two buckles are attached to the shoe with pieces of elastane so as to allow the shoe to function as a slip-on at will – a course of action I cannot recommend if you lack a shoe horn with which to put them on.

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The sole is thick, all of the seams are clean and seamless as well as subtly double stitched for strength and the goodyear-welting is solid. Box calf leather covers the shoe, which is thinner than a shell cordovan, but also pliable enough to be more forgiving. Included in the packaging for the shoes is a pair of rubber vibram sole covers which a cobbler can put on for around ten dollars. This offers extra waterproofing and an extended sole life, which is a good idea for a three hundred dollar shoe.

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FUNCTION

Monk straps are generally less popular than derbys and oxfords and are therefore still somewhat of a rarity in America. They do have something alien to them, perhaps the strange process of fiddling with two straps rather than a set of laces when donning or removing them. This takes a little getting used to but eventually the process of removing each strap from the buckles is a cinch (faster than a pair of laces, in fact).

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As aforementioned this style is intended to be a slip-on which is not quite as seamless a process. Without a shoe horn attempting to slip monk-straps on and off would ruin them; it is still a bit dangerous with the horn. The weight of the shoe is the greatest inconvenience and left my surprised feet like overworked oxen at the end of a few days. Solid box-leather shoes with such a thick sole were not surprising with their weight though it should be taken into consideration if your intention is to wander city streets for longer than a couple hours.

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AESTHETIC

The dark brown of the last is a deep rich color featuring an artificial toe-cap patina and complemented by well chosen silver buckles that add to the sleek appearance. The cap toe proves a good choice for the target aesthetic of the monk-straps breaking up the length of an otherwise long toe. These are not considered formal footwear but semi-formal a few steps below patent leather oxfords and such. In this niche, #591 can be worn with a variety of jeans, slacks, and even the right shorts; good pairings abound with a good looking shoe, which is something that stretches back to the origins of the dress shoe.

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Even within the confines of staple dress shoe versatility the monk-strap is a unique shoe, one of its strongest points. In any group, even one of well-dressed men, the double monk-strap is still capable of standing out (a task considerably more difficult for its derby and oxford cousins.

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BestLeather CONCLUSION

At €219 ($281) SHOEPASSION’s #591 double monk-strap is among a wave of more affordable luxury shoes, comparable in quality to the American made Allen Edmonds. That much being said they still performed above my expectations. Though soft these are a reasonable option with a strong sole and good physical design that is aided greatly by how well they are constructed . A little heavy after extended periods of wear and difficult to slip on and off there is still enough charm and comfort (assuming they fit well, take UK sizing into account when purchasing a pair) in the laceless design to merit an investment in a pair of these German luxury shoes.

For more products from SHOEPASSION visit: http://www.shoepassion.com/

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How To Make Yourself A Huge Leather Desk Pad – $150

I have been wanting a desk pad for a while but the retail cost, available sizes, and quality levels have been holding me back. Saddleback Leather wants a hefty $213 for their admittedly nicely finished desk pad. That’s too rich for my taste considering all I want is a hefty piece of leather. Amazon’s offerings are chinsy and still expensive for what they are. So fine! I’ll make my own.

A trip to the Tandy Leather Store over in Spokane netted me a large side of ridiculously thick 13-14oz cowhide on sale for $100. It was easily large enough to cover the entire desk. You can make one also, and very easily.

You will need

  1. large hunk of leather
  2. straight edge
  3. measuring tape
  4. rotary cutter or exacto knife (Olfa Cutter worked well for me)
  5. Tandy Leather Edge Beveler
  6. Tandy Leather Burnisher
  7. Fiebings Neatsfoot Oil (or some other conditioner)

installation instructions

  1. Measure your desk and mark the dimensions on your suitably sized side of leather. I made my pad a couple inches large in each direction to let the edge of the leather sag over the edge of the desk.
  2. Use the straight edge and your cutter to slice out the pad. Go slow and press down hard so that you do not have to make a second pass.
  3. Run the edge beveler over the edges to take the sharp edge off. Continue at your discretion depending on how rounded you want the edges.
  4. Get the edges wet that you wish to burnish and run the Tandy Leather burnisher back and forth quickly to sear the edge with friction. Alternatively you can implement a dremel like below which would be much faster.
  5. Put heavy items where the leather stubbornly lifts up until it submits to your will.
  6. Slather your conditioner of choice on with a piece of sheeps wool. A large pad will consume quite a bit of conditioner.

results

Unless you buy a really nice piece of leather like A grade Herman Oak or Wicket & Craig you will likely have scars and various imperfections in the leather. I chose to accept this since I plan to treat this pad roughly and I didn’t want to pay the hefty prices for A grade sides. Now I have an impressive piece of leather covering my desk, the cherry wood is protected, the pad will last forever (practically), and it only cost me $150 or so.

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Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet Review – $605

be·spoke [ bi-ˈspōk ] – made to order: made to a customer’s specifications

Half-British. Half-Iranian. All Canadian. Andrew Diba is a British Columbian luxury bespoke leather designer who will personally meet with each of his customers to create any design that both he and the customer would be proud to own. No kits, instruction manual, or YouTube videos here – Andrew Diba has spent over five years in self-motivated learning through his own trial and error, an apprenticeship with a Budapest shoemaker, and designing and producing his own goods for house brands. To break through the limitations of price point and quantity, he has more recently branched out on his own, creating Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba to focus on the essentials of crafting instead of business.

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CONSTRUCTION

The Geometric Wallet is one of Andrew Diba’s flagship innovative designs. The design incorporates more pocket space while keeping it slim and interesting. This particular custom wallet is made with only two pieces from a single pristine high-grade juvenile American alligator skin chrome-tanned in Italy. The cutting of the skin is thoughtfully designed to maximize scale placement. The inner triangle is cut out from the (eh-hem) genital area where the scales coalesce into smaller rings for an attractive viewing window. There is lining even in the hidden slots, made from Australian kangaroo tanned in Italy and for good reason. Kangaroo provides the strongest leather for any given thickness, insuring lifelong durability and hold to the wallet’s shape. The inner leather is a terracotta vegetable-tanned Sokoto goatskin from Nigeria using unique tanning agents from the Bagaruwa tree (a.k.a. Acacia Arabica) which is then tanned again in the UK with Sumac. All imported exotic skins are sustainable leather sources and CITES-labelled and approved.


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Everything at Neo Nouveau is 100% hand-stitched to 10 stitches/inch by Andrew Diba with traditional saddle-making techniques and French linen threads. Because exotic leathers are frequently chrome-tanned, the edges cannot simply be burnished. This particular finish is hand-sanded and melted, re-sanded, and repeated several times using special French waxy edge paint with a six-month shelf-life. After six months, even if only a drop has been used, the rest is thrown away. No cutting corners here. This extra effort to find the optimal edge paint is to maximize the range of available colors while providing much more durability and water resistance. Finishing can take up to several days but the waxy edge doesn’t have the typical unnatural or plastic look and is much less likely to separate at folded edges due to increased wear.

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Tools, paint, thread, leather – quality is essential to this wallet’s construction.

For final confirmation and quality control, Andrew Diba e-mails multiple photographs of the custom item prior to any shipment to guarantee a satisfied customer. If it isn’t right, it’s thrown away.

FUNCTION

The sheer amount of details and construction of this particular wallet makes it so that it no longer functions as a wallet. Instead, it is a showpiece. I can’t bring myself to stuff too many things into it for fear of ruining its stunningly fluid look. Should I stuff an old Costco receipt and my five coffee stamp cards into it? Probably not. Will it hold everything if I wanted to? Of course. The wallet is thin enough to fit comfortably into both back and front pockets and the alligator is surprisingly soft and light. The leathers are expected to self-condition with oils from the hands which is good since you will find yourself not wanting to let go of this wallet. Andrew Diba recommends Saphir Reptan conditioner for all his exotic skins.

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AESTHETIC

Text doesn’t do this wallet justice. It is beautiful, well-crafted, and screams luxury. Why waste time on describing the wallet when I can just post photos. The best part? No eyesore of a brand or label. It is better matched for formal or chic apparel but with something at this level you can wear it with anything and no one will dare criticize you.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet is a standout leather creation. At $605 with free international shipping for this combination of materials, you get a personally constructed heirloom quality product without breaking the bank. This is a bespoke good and as such, the entire construction can be customized online or in person, from color of edging and stitching to leather combinations ranging from Horween to shark. It may be an ambitious investment for some people, but once you have one in your hands, you won’t regret it.