Intrepid Bag Co. Journeyman Messenger Review – $369

It seems that today’s traveling is all about minimalism and finding a shoulder bag to not only take as a carry-on at the airport, but also a bag that you can walk with for a period of time that is not too heavy, cumbersome, or restricting.  The design of the Journeyman from Intrepid Bag Co. is purposely designed with the traveler, adventurer and minimalist in mind with its lighter-weight construction, fit, and function while maintaining a sleek and stylish appearance.

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CONSTRUCTION

A two-year-old company based out of San Francisco, Intrepid Bag Co. sells just 2 leather travel bags–one for him and one for her with underlining themes of travel, comfort, minimalism and quality.

The Journeyman features a rich dark brown, full grain latigo saddle leather that is very soft and flexible and requires virtually no break-in period.  The stitching is a marine-grade nylon thread.  A herringbone fabric lines the inside of the bag, pockets, and shoulder strap.  On the inside, the main compartment of the bag features a sewn-in 13-inch padded laptop sleeve with a leather pocket for an iPad or other accessory on the front.  Behind the laptop pocket, there is another slightly concealed pocket for items such as a passport or cellphone.

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 A leather/herringbone divider features a large pocket with a leather flap and closure, another cellphone sized pocket and three pen slots.  There are also two exterior pockets on both the front and the backside of the bag.  Being a messenger style bag, the bag’s lid is secured with two buckle closures made from a lightweight steel.  The shoulder strap is 2 inches wide and is reinforced with two steel rivets on each end. It can be adjusted for length with a free floating pad to tuck away the excess strap tail.

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FUNCTION

The dimensions of this bag are 15″ x 10″ x 3,” making it a smaller bag.  In the world of the minimalist, this may be a good thing.  Smaller bags force you to pack light and take along the very basics.  That being said, the bag can hold an 11-inch or 13-inch MacBook Air no problem.  A larger laptop may not fit in the designated laptop sleeve, not to mention with the power adapter and other electronic accessories.  With a laptop and a power cord, there really is not much room left in the bag.  A few additional books or magazines, a pair of sunglasses, a point and shoot digital camera and a passport wallet maxes out the space without the bag looking overstuffed and awkward when carried.

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The shoulder strap features a cross body design that holds the bag flat and firmly against one’s back as opposed to the side.  The bag also has a handle which is more tucked away in the back rather than directly on top of the bag.

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AESTHETIC

The leather on this bag is rich and will most likely take on a lot of character with wear.  A few scratches on mine already look great.  With a name like Journeyman, a piece that acquires scratch marks and a patina contributes to the bag’s journeys and stories.

As mentioned previously, this is a small bag.  While a thin laptop, a charger, and a few accessories can fit in the bag, there is not much room for more.  This may not be a great bag for briefcase items such as larger notebooks, folders, or books.  One may see this more as just a laptop bag with other every day carry items.

Empty, the bag weighs about 2 pounds.  With a 11-inch MacBook Air, charger, point and shoot camera, 2 small notebooks and a couple small accessories, it weighed about 9 pounds for me.  Anything more, I feel, would make the back bulky and heavy–thus defeating the purpose of the minimalist design.

I am 6’1″ and am about 180 pounds (on a good day), and the bag fits my frame well while only looking a tad small.  I have been using it almost every day for a week and I appreciate the size.

Having always worn a messenger bag hanging to my side, the design of the shoulder strap was awkward at first since it only allows you to have it sit snuggly against your back.  After wearing it a few times, I got used to it and it doesn’t feel like a burden when walking or riding a bike.  This is what this bag was meant for (hence the name).  Although it would be nice to have a different option with the shoulder strap (or even the option of removing it), it suites the theme and design of the bag quite well.

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Although the hardware on the bag is lightweight, it appears to be of lower quality than most other leather bags on the market.  I appreciate the lighter weight buckles, but I worry that they might not hold up getting banged around with travel and regular wear.

Another feature I thought was awkward was the handle.  The handle is behind the bag rather than on top and seems a tad flimsy.  After using it for a few days, I again realized that the handle being tucked back and hidden contributed to the minimalist design.  Having a bulkier handle directly on top would definitely stick out like a sore thumb.  Since one cannot carry a lot of heavy things in this small bag, I do not forsee any issues of the handle coming unstitched or ripping from the weight of the bag.

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Lastly, the herringbone fabric lining the leather is a nice touch and pads the contents of the bag very well.  Again, not being leather, I suspect it will wear thin and require extra attention to clean for it to stay in good shape.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Journeyman Messenger from Intrepid Bag Co. speaks to its name.  It is a smaller minimalist bag that is very comfortable to wear while walking long distances or even biking.  The bag comes with a 10 year warranty which also makes me wary of the quality, but after using it for a week, the bag seems pretty durable and reliable.  The price is what you would expect from a domestic made product with full grain leather and herringbone fabric.  Being a new company, I am curious to see what other consumers think of the Journeyman and what other products lie in store for Intrepid Bag Co.

Check it out here.

Rustic Leather Replica Mailbag Review – $379

I have been using the Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag for quite some time now. I reported on my initial impression some time ago—that the bag is beautiful and practical, and could be improved by slightly widening the top flap (which Rustic Leather intends to do). Today, I offer you my full review.

bottom line

The TL;DR version of this review is simply this: this mailbag is classy, lightweight, and spacious. If the pictures and description already have you drooling and you are on the fence about whether to buy this sumptuous messenger, buy it. It feels even better in your hand than it looks in the pictures. So, if you already want it and you’re reading this like a person who asks for advice (eg. only looking to be affirmed in a predetermined course of action), then go for it. They are made in limited runs, so keep that in mind. This review will still be here when you get back.

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the story

Dave, Rustic Leather’s owner and leather craftsman, took great care in developing their Replica US Mail Bag because the project is close to his heart. His uncle Walter was a mail carrier when Dave was a child living in upstate New York, and Walter’s route would bring him by Dave’s family’s house every day. Dave was mesmerized by Walter’s leather mail bag and the fact that it carried letters from around the world. Walter passed away in 2004 (four years before Dave made his first bag), and Dave’s aunt, Fran, bequeathed Walter’s old mail bag to him, which he now keeps in his office. Dave was able to use this authentic US mail bag as a model for Rustic Leather’s rendition. However, taking the dimensions of a bag is one thing, while improving on a classic design and identifying the perfect leather for the task is another. Dave added a center divider, and mounted pockets, pen loops, and a key leash to it. He also added a newspaper pocket along the posterior of the bag. For the leather, he eventually selected a golden, waxy leather from the renowned SB Foot tannery in Red Wing, Minnesota. The result, as you can see, is striking.

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the leather

Rustic Leather’s Replica US Mail Bag is made from 100% full-grain 5–6oz. bovine leather. Let’s break that down. “Full-grain” leather comprises the layers of skin closest to the exterior surface of the animal. The fibers there are knit together much tighter and are naturally better aligned, which results in the highest durability of any grade of leather. Additionally, full-grain leather tends to retain some of the appearance of the actual hide itself, including impressions from veins, and sometimes scars or brands, resulting in a ruggedly handsome look and feel. However, that is not all that matters. That this leather is 5–6oz. means it is especially thick. This makes the leather more expensive because the layers just under what can be considered “full grain” cannot be sold separately as “top grain” leather. This particular leather is tanned to a vintage mustard-brown hue and finished to a smooth, waxy texture that does not mark easily. The interior is a matching suede that I find difficult to keep my hands out of.

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the tannery

The SB Foot Tanning Company was originally founded by Silas Buck Foot and his partner in 1872. The urgent need for quality shoes had arisen among local farmers, to whom the company began selling moccasin-like footwear made from fur-on deer hide. Demand for their products outstripped their production, due in large part to the difficulty in sourcing quality hides, and so the cobblers forged their own upstream tanning company. During World War I, SB Foot became a popular source of leather for military footwear. Silas Buck Foot I’s unbridled passion for quality was passed down though his descendants and eventually inherited, along with his tannery, by Silas Buck Foot III.

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the tanning

SB Foot still “makes it like they used to,” although they’ve also upgraded their processes with the aid of some new techniques, combining proprietary family methods that have been refined over many generations with modern technology. They receive their hides in their”wet blue” state from feedlot cattle raised in Nebraska and Texas. That means the proteins in the skins have been stabilized in a chromium salt curing process. SB Foot grades the hides internally and then shaves them. From there, hides are stained all the way through by soaking them in tree and vegetable oils and tumbling them in wooden drums. Allowing the oils and dyes to penetrate the entire thickness of the leather enhances the longevity of both quality and color. From there, each hide’s life may take a different route at SB Foot, involving various oils, waxes, or finishes to achieve one of several different characteristic sets of properties. Finished hides may then be purchased by craftsmen.

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the craftsmen

Apparently, the correlation between being named Dave and being a leather-working artisan is almost as strong as the correlation between being named John or Jon and being a Reformed scholar. Rustic Leather’s own resident Dave originally got into leather work after realizing how discontented he was with the series of nylon and cheaply-made leather bags he had worn out through heavy use in business and adventure in Texas. He applied the industrial design skills he had acquired during 20+ years in the home automation industry to the creation of a one-of-kind messenger bag that could stand up to his purposes. After receiving one too many compliments on his bag, he sought out the mentorship of an accomplished leather craftsman and started Rustic Leather. Rustic Leather only produces heirloom-quality handmade leather goods, backed by their satisfaction guarantee, here in the United States, which means these pieces aren’t constructed using sweatshop labor (the leather is all sourced in the United States as well). If you are unhappy with a piece you purchased from Rustic Leather, you can return it within 14 days for a full refund

the construction

The Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag is 15” h x 11” w x 7” d, and the rear compartment snugly fits a 17” MacBook Pro. The bottom corners of the bag are rounded off, and the anterior panel widens toward the bottom where it is sort of pleated as it is sewn into the bottom panel, keeping the opening of the bag tighter and giving the whole piece a nice rounded look. I am able to fit the entire contents of my SBL backpack into it and more—which surprises me. The body comprises four panels total, which come together with additional pieces to form two interior compartments, three small pockets, a zippered anterior pocket, two pen holsters, and a key leash. There is then an adjustable/removable shoulder strap fastened onto it for transport. These pieces are all stitched together using a white, marine-grade, UV-resistant polyester thread. Polyester thread is comparable to nylon thread in terms of tensile strength, but boasts superior water resistance. While nylon stands up to exposure to water, polyester can endure frequent exposure while maintaining much of its tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, and resisting mold and mildew. Polyester is also remarkably resistant to heat (although certainly not a fire retardant—it melts at 483 degrees Fahrenheit). The rivets are composed of a high-copper alloy. Not only is copper beautiful, it is highly corrosion-resistant and “biostatic,” so bacteria will not grow on it. As it tends to be fairly ductile, it is alloyed to achieve hardness. In line with this level of quality, Dave used a trusty YKK zipper to secure the anterior pocket.

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the future

I’ve already mentioned widening the top flap to keep precipitation out—an improvement Rustic Leather intends to make—but there are a couple more points.

There is a strap that stretches over the top of the laptop compartment and fastens to a nice little post on the exterior of the bag. The opening in this strap has a hole large enough to fit over the bulbous end of the post, then a slit going upward, then a smaller hole, which cannot fit over the end of the post, but which is wide enough to accommodate the base of the post. It strikes me that this should be inverted to provide a kind of locking mechanism. I can’t figure out why it is the way it is currently.

The posterior of the bag is reinforced with a bag-length ultra thick leather strip that provides structure and enhances the carrying strength of the piece, which is where the handle is riveted. The rivets penetrate several layers of leather and are exposed to the laptop compartment. Why not have the innermost layer of leather cover these to protect the wearer’s laptop from scratches?

the conclusion

This piece is definitely a “buy it for life” item, without hesitation. Even prior to knowing the backstory, I could tell that this bag was something special, from the vintage color and style, to the leather choice, to the craftsmanship. The price makes this mail bag a strong value, especially given the fact that these are made in small batches by a well-trained boutique craftsman. I will check back in after the leather has had some more time to develop a decent patina.

Check Rustic Leather out here.

Coronado Leather Americana Large Duffel Bag – $799

The Coronado Leather Company was established in San Diego, California in 1981.  From a small assortment of craftsman committed to producing high quality leather bags, the company has grown to offer a wide assortment of quality goods.  From leather bags to leather wallets, the focus at Coronado is quality.  Coronado has created a niche for itself in the concealed carry leather goods industry (as in: a really cool, high quality leather item to conceal your firearm) for the responsible citizen and for law enforcement officers.  You can find many of these bags on Amazon and on their website at www.coronadoleather.com.

We have previously reviewed their Swiss Military Saddlebag, a beautiful replica of the 1920’s to 1940’s saddlebag of the same name.  In addition to sending us that bag to review, they included their Americana Large Duffel Bag for us to take a look at as well.  As I initially lifted the duffel bag from the box, I instantly knew that this was a premium bag.

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LEATHER

Coronado’s Large Duffel Bag is made from 5.5 to 6oz Horween Leather, a leather that Horween calls “Derby”.  This leather is thicker than most all leather bags and gives the bag a very nice heft and feel. This is leather that is full grain, meaning that the top layer is not corrected or sanded down.  Full grain leather is the prime cut, if you will, of a hide.  It is the outermost layer, and therefore has the tightest grain structure.  The particular leather for this duffel bag has quite a bit of marbling, which gives the bag a beautiful rustic, aged appearance.  The leather is also dyed through (struck through for you leather aficionados), which means that the color in the middle of the leather is the same as on the outside.  We at BestLeather love when we see leather like this.  Accomplishing this requires significantly more time tumbling in drums, and results in a premium hide.

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Horween’s Derby leather is also straight vegetable tanned, an old process that results in a leather that patinas beautifully over time and has more body.  After the vegetable tanning, it goes through a process of being tumbled, fat liquored, and finished.  It is the same process that Horween uses to finish their world famous Shell Cordovan leather.  The result is leather that has both structure and softness at the same time, and looks rich and beautifully aged.

CONSTRUCTION

The Americana Large Duffel bag is made from only three large pieces of Derby leather–one piece for each side and then a piece for the bottom.  The use of only a few pieces of leather for such a large bag (it measures 18” x 14” x 10”) means that the bag has fewer seams, which are the weakest links of a bag.  Typically, the fewer seams a bag has, the better.

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Another nice feature of the bag is that each end of the bag has a strap sewn and riveted to the top that you can fasten to a D ring on the bottom of the bag.  This allows for a certain amount of expandability or contraction of the bag.  If you are going for a three day trip and need to stuff a lot into the bag, then you unsnap the strap, which gives you more room, or vice versa.  It is a nice feature that allows the bag to be a little smaller, when you need it to be.

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The duffel bag also comes with an adjustable strap for carrying over the shoulder.  The strap is made with two strips of Derby leather sewn together and is approximately three-quarters of an inch wide, by 11 to 12 oz thick.  The strap feels hefty and does not seem to have any stretch to it, a testament to good quality, vegetable tanned leather.

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Similarly, the handheld straps are two layers thick of Derby leather, with an additional strap sandwiched in the middle, for extra grip and aesthetic appeal.  These straps are riveted twice to the sides of the bag, and then overlaid with another piece of layer, which is then double stitched to the bag.  (Talk about over-engeering!)  I think I could hook up the bag to the back of my truck and use it as a hitch to haul around my toys.  I love this type of durability, when a bag is made to last generations and truly be an heirloom product.  At $799, the bag is not cheap, but is well worth it.

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HARDWARE

Hardware is where many companies skimp and use what just looks good or will get by for a few years, but not Coronado Leather.  For the Americana Large Duffel, they use an over-sized #10 YKK 2-pull brass zipper made in the good ole’ US of A.  The zipper is another distinguishing feature of the bag.  When you open and close it, it feels like you are opening or closing the door to a massive tent.  It is not something you zip quickly open or closed.  It takes a bit of effort, but you know that there is no way it is going to come apart.

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Coronado also uses solid brass D rings, and solid brass ball rivets throughout the bag.  The ball rivets give the bag another dimension and complement the leather nicely.  There are also two sets of the ball rivets on the bottom of the bag, which help protect the bottom of the bag when placing it on the ground.

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LINING AND STITCHING

The American Duffel is lined with thick, durable, khaki cotton canvas.  This gives the bag a finished look on the inside, and provided a bit of sophistication to a rugged looking, extremely durable bag.  The inside of the bag also has a small pocket with another YKK zipper that is similarly lined with canvas.  The entire bag is sewn with polyester thread and is made in Coronado’s San Diego leather shop.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Americana Large Duffel Bag from Coronado Leather is extremely well made.  It has solid brass rivets throughout, strengthening the leather in potential areas of weakness.  It is made with some of the best leather you can buy, from the Horween Leather Company, which has been making leather in Chicago for over 100 years.  It is built like a Mack Truck, but has the sophistication of a Ferrari.  If you want or need a duffel bag that your kids will pass along to their kids, look no further than the Americana Large Duffel.

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The Leather Shop MacBook Pro Bag – $220

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The Leather Shop is a small company of leather designers and craftsmen in the Georgetown District of Seattle, Washington. This is one of the oldest parts of town and, second only to the Fremont District, it is the hangout of the most creative. The craftsmen at this shop pride themselves on creativity and making long lasting products. All the leather, hardware and labor that go into any product manufactured by The Leather Shop are Made in USA. If you are looking for a slim way to transport your MacBook Pro, you will be pleased with what The Leather Shop has to offer.

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CONSTRUCTION

The MacBook Pro Bag is unique among all brands. The Leather Shop makes the case out of one piece of Horween Chamois leather. The sides are woven together – no stitching; just woven leather. They call this their innovative, stitch-less design. The woven sides add cushion to the contents as well as give the bag its unique look.

The shoulder strap is made of dark brown chromexcel leather and stamped with their website URL (theLeatherShop.com). The stress points are reinforced with brass rivets. It is adjustable for purse length, man bag length and briefcase length. The brass hardware attachments are solid cast brass. If you want to use the bag as a cover and carry it in a briefcase or backpack, the strap is completely detachable.

The cover is held shut with two solid-cast brass snap locks. The cover is held in place by brass grommets fitted between the internal and external sides of the snap locks.

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The MacBook Pro Bag comes in three sizes:
13″ MacBook Pro is 13.5 x 9.5 inches and weighs approximately one pound.
13″ MacBook Pro Retina display is 13 x 9 inches and weighs less than one pound.
15″ MacBook Pro Retina display is 15 x 10.25 inches and weighs just over one pound.

FUNCTION

The computer slides in and out with ease, yet it is snuggly fit in the bag. I am able to slide in a manila folder that holds a dozen papers and a note pad, also. With the added load, the snap locks are still able to function well and I don’t need to apply any extra effort to make it so. The whole package, bag, and load are slim and trim and I am able to carry the basic essentials.

Leather Shop MacBook CaseThe carrying strap is adjustable to three lengths (as described previously). I have the strap set to briefcase length. This length seems to carry the computer most comfortably – and, I am not into purses – male or female. If you find you need to slide the carrying handle over your head so you can have your hands free, you will find the briefcase length is the best setting.

AESTHETIC

The Chamois leather has a comfortable, casual appearance and wears to a nice patina in time. Mine is already developing a nice tone and is very pleasant to look at. The braiding is the highlight of the MacBook Pro Bag and The Leather Shop says it is reminiscent of Native American style art.

The MacBook Pro Bag reviewed for this story is Tobacco, but it is also available in Maroon, Dark Olive and Tan. I like the look of the contrasting brass against the Tobacco, but they all are good colors.

Here the MacBook Pro Bag is shown with the Rivet Wallet by The Leather Shop and my dog, Miles. Miles enjoys quality leather products and approves of this review.
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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The product is good, and this reviewer is very pleased with the MacBook Pro Bag by The Leather Shop. I will be using this bag for many years – or at least as long as I have a MacBook that fits this bag. It holds the computer snuggly, yet it is easy to insert or remove – and it holds additional papers and notepads, too. It is rugged and durable, yet it wears well and is stylish. I use it in a professional environment and it blends right in with business. The braids look good and receive a lot of comments. If you are looking for an affordable way to transport your MacBook Pro, the MacBook Pro Bag by The Leather Shop will serve you well.

Vagabond Traveler L38 Messenger Laptop Bag – $189

Vagabond Traveler is a leather goods seller based in Oviedo, Florida.  They sell briefcases, bags, wallets, backpacks, and even fanny packs, which are all made of leather (of course).  They have a wide assortment of leather goods, and their website is easy to navigate and search for different bags and products.  Vagabond Traveler is a seller of leather goods, but does not produce or manufacture the bags themselves.  Their bags and goods are made in China, which helps to fulfill Vagabond’s goal of selling products that are affordable, but of a good quality.

BestLeather’s experience with Vagabond has been a little bit different from our normal relationships with leather goods providers.  Vagabond sent us a bag to review a few months ago, but we decided to return it because of some manufacturing defects, and also because the bag was very similar to a well-known competitor.  Long, our contact at Vagabond, was very responsive and sent us another bag promptly.  This bag, called the L38 Messenger Laptop Bag on their website, is a messenger bag made for a 15” laptop and the bag that we will look at in this review.

LEATHER

The L38 is made from soft, full grain, four to five ounce cowhide that has been vegetable tanned.  The color is struck through, which is admirable considering that many well known and reputable tanneries do not dye their leather all of the way through.  Leather that has been struck through has been tanned and drum dyed until the color of the leather penetrates to the middle of the hide.  If you were to ever gouge the leather, the color in the middle will be the same as on the outside.

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Vegetable tanning is also a process that requires significantly more time in the tanning process and normally results in a leather that is a little stiffer than chrome or oil tanned leather.  The leather used for the L38 is unusually soft and nice to the touch.  It has sort of a fibrous feel to it, similar to suede.  The color of the leather is “natural brown” according to Vagabond, but really is a light tan.

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DESIGN

The L38 is meant to be a laptop bag.  The bag is 15” wide, by 13” tall, by 3” wide.  Because the sidewall is riveted to both the front and back panels, you lose about ½” of width on each end, so the bag’s useable width is really closer to 2”.  This means you have room for a 15” or 13” laptop, and perhaps a book or two, or large notebook cover and that is about it, at least for the inside.  The inside also has a small pouch for a phone, as well as a couple of pen sleeves.

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The strap for the L38 is approximately 1 ¼” wide and is a single strap of leather, sewn to an equally wide strap of nylon.  Though many people (myself included) prefer all leather straps, this is a smart idea because, unlike leather, nylon has virtually no stretch.  This makes the strap significantly more durable than if it was just the single strap of leather.

The L38 is also equipped with two zippered outside pockets.  They are 8” deep by 4.5” wide and will fit a myriad of items or accessories such as car keys, cell phone, mini tablet, etc.  The back of the bag also has a zippered compartment that you could stuff a folded newspaper or magazine.  With these additional compartments, the L38 has adequate storage for a day at the office or a day of meetings.  If you are not of the minimalist camp though, and have to haul more gear to and from work, you might be better off with a wider bag.

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CONSTRUCTION

The L38 is made to be durable.  It is made with full grain, vegetable tanned leather.  It is stitched with strong and durable nylon thread.  A number of leather bag manufacturers use polyester because it is UV resistant and two to three times stronger than nylon thread.  For those of us who are not planning on using our bag to compete in a tug-a-war, nylon is probably an adequate thread to hold the bag together, and one in which many quality manufacturers still use.

Where I feel Vagabond skimped on making this bag was the use of multiple pieces of leather.  Many of the highest quality bag manufacturers try to use as few pieces of leather as possible in constructing a bag.  The seams are the weakest link, and therefore, the fewer seams the better.

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For example, in a very high quality bag, the leather for the back panel continues all of the way to the front flap of the bag, in one long piece.  On the L38, the back panel is actually two pieces of leather sewn together, and then the top flap is sewn to that.  The side walls are also separate pieces from the bottom, as opposed to one long strip from side to bottom to side.  Again, this does not mean that the bag is going to fall apart, especially since it is sewn with nylon thread, but it does still reduce the durability of the bag.

Overall, the L38 is constructed well.  It has rivets were they are needed the most–to support the stitching and areas of potential weakness.  The sewing is straight and even, buckles and handle are centered, and the bag has an aesthetic pleasantness to it.  I did notice several places where marks were made with fabric ink by the craftsman, and the ink was still there.  This lack of attention to detail is a shame considering that the L38 is a good bag overall.  Perhaps it was just an oversight on the bag we received.

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HARDWARE

The L38 is made with all metal, chrome plated hardware, including the zippers. One interesting feature with the L38 is how the main compartment is secured.  The bag has two straps that are secured to a buckle, which is fastened to a push button snap that you can slide in to its closure and snap shut.  As a result, you can keep the straps secured to the buckle, but still pop open the buttons and slide out the strap.  Should you undo the strap from the buckle, and lose the snap button though, you would not be able to secure the bag closed.  My preference would be to lose the snap button and just stick with a traditional strap and buckle closure.  When I showed this design to my wife, she really liked it and even preferred it that way.  Like most things, it is a matter of preference.  Just do not lose the snap buttons.

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PRICE

One of the biggest advantages to many of the items that Vagabond Traveler sells is their price.  The bags and goods they sell are less expensive than their competitors.  This is due in large part to where the goods are made.  The tradeoff is that you are buying an item that is not quite the best.  It is good for sure, but not the quality that one lusts for.  Knowing what I now know about high quality leather goods, I would save my duckets until I had enough money for the best and go with that.  If you just don’t have the money though, the L38 or other bags from Vagabond Traveler will provide you with a good product that will last you many years.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The L38 Messenger Laptop Bag from Vagabond Traveler is a well-made bag, especially for the price.  There are a number of details that could make the bag much better (i.e. using fewer pieces of leather to construct the bag, using polyester instead of nylon thread, etc.), but for the price it is a good bag that will provide years of service.

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Piero Tucci Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag – $462

Florence, Italy is a romantic city where you can behold Michelangelo’s David, visit the famous Il Duomo, or stroll through the Piazza del Signoria with its many sculptures and works of art.  Florence also is home to Piero Tucci, an Italian workshop that specializes in high quality leather bags, handbags, jackets, and other small leather goods.

Piero Tucci was established in 1972 and currently operates on the outskirts of Florence, which is in the heart of Tuscany.  Mr. Piero Tucci himself formed the company and gathered a small group of highly trained craftsman to provide high quality leather goods to local retailers and shops.  The Piero Tucci name and reputation grew over the ensuing years, as did its product line and popularity, especially in Europe.

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Today, the company has two retail shops, retail connections throughout the world, and a beautifully designed website that is both functional and a pleasure to peruse.  Piero Tucci also has guided tours of their workshop, which would be a fascinating stop if in the area for a vacation.  Piero Tucci sent BestLeather their Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag for us to review, which is in their Toscanella collection.  This collection centers around the use of vegetable dyed Florentine Vacchetta Leather.

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LEATHER

For those of us who have purchased a quality leather good recently, you may recall the aroma you are exposed to when you first open the box to pull out your anticipated item.  There is something satisfying and pleasant to that leather scent, a scent saying, “Herein lies something really great.”  It was no different when I first opened the box containing the Toscanella Messenger Bag from Piero Tucci.  The smell of the leather was terrific, reminiscent of stepping into a brand new Italian sports car, but without the sky high price.

Perhaps this particular scent is indicative of the Vacchetta leather that Piero Tucci uses.  Vacchetta leather is calfskin leather that has been vegetable tanned.  Vegetable tanning is the process of tanning leather with bark and similar organic extracts and takes significantly longer than chrome tanning.  Calf skin is known for having a tighter grain than cowhide.  It is commonly used in high end shoes and similar products, because using calf skin leather allows for using slightly thinner leather while still maintaining durability.  The leather for this bag is approximately three ounces thick.  The combination of the thinner calfskin leather means that the bag is both durable and lightweight for a mostly leather bag.

Piero Tucci uses top-grain leather for this bag, which means that the outermost layer of the hide is removed and sanded down to provide a more even appearance.  Top-grain leather is technically not as strong as full grain leather (which is not sanded down or altered in any way), but it is still commonly used in higher end bags and furniture and will still last many years.  The leather used for this messenger bag feels solid, yet supple.  It also has a subtle pebbled feel, which just lends to its European style.

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STYLE AND UTILITY

As is common with many high end Italian goods, the Toscanella Messenger Bag has lots of style.  This particular bag is made with Piero Tucci’s tobacco colored Vacchetta leather, but they also have seven other colors to choose from (including safron, ivory, navy blue, etc.).  The color is beautiful and the design of the bag is simple and elegant.  You open the tall flap to get inside the bag, which has a zippered pocket for your phone, keys, and other goods.  There is no buckle or snaps to fasten the top flap down, but after using the bag I do not feel that it is necessary.

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When the bag is empty, it is actually completely flat by design.  There is no side panel that increases the width of the bag, which means that the back and front pannels come together into a single leather bead.  At first, I thought that this design would not allow me to carry much in the bag, but it surprisingly large.  I was able to get my 13” Macbook Air, with leather sleeve, large, thick notebook cover, and my smaller moleskine notebook cover in without a problem.  It easily fits enough for a day at the office or a day around town, but still maintains a slim profile.  If you have large files or binders to haul around, you may want to consider one of their larger messenger bags or totes.

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The bag also has two exterior pockets.  The back pocket has no zipper and is about 12” deep.  It allows for easy access to items you need while on the go.  There is no lining to this pocket, just the nice vegetable tanned leather.  The front pocket does have a zipper that is tethered with a strip of leather, so that when you open the zipper, the strip folds out.  This is a nice bit of styling that I enjoyed.

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The main compartment has a cotton lining that is fun, vertically striped, and multi-colored.  This pattern gives the bag a bit of a stylish edge.  Both the interior and the front exterior pockets share this same lining.

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HARDWARE AND STITCHING

The hardware that Piero Tucci uses is all metal, from the zippers, to the “D” rings, to the rivets.  The rivets in fact are stamped with Piero Tucci’s logo, as is the base of the two “D” rings, that the strap is attached to.  The strap itself is made from strong nylon, with a colorful orange strip woven in.  Similar to the strap, the thread used to sew the bag together is also nylon.  While not quite as durable as polyester thread, it is still the thread of choice for many high-end leather producers.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

If you are looking for a bag that has a flare of European style, made with beautiful, durable leather, and that you can take to the office, to church, or around town with plenty of panache, then you’d be happy with the Toscanella Leather Messenger Bag from Piero Tucci.

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Two Days Left To Enter The Saddleback Leather Duffel Giveaway

The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer…

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Go here to enter to giveaway: http://bestleather.org/saddleback-leather-side-pocket-duffel-giveaway/

The giveaway will end on April 12th at 12PM. A winner will be selected at random and emailed.

Coronado Leather Swiss Military Saddlebag – $599

The Coronado Leather Company was formed in 1981 in San Diego, California.  Born of a small assortment of craftsman committed to producing high quality leather bags, the company has grown to offer a wide assortment of quality goods, but they have kept their focus on leather bags for both men and women.  In particular, Coronado has created a niche for itself in the concealed carry leather goods industry (as in: a really cool, high quality leather item to conceal your firearm) for the responsible citizen and for law enforcement officers.

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In addition to the aforementioned niche, Coronado Leather is also a company devoted to producing the highest quality goods with the highest quality raw materials.  Coronado recently sent to BestLeather their Swiss Military Saddlebag as well as their Americana Large Duffel.  This commitment to quality was immediately apparent after examining these two bags.  For the purpose of this article, we’ll be taking a look at the Swiss Military Saddlebag, with a review of the Large Duffel to follow-up in a week or two.

DESIGN

The Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado is a replica of the same named saddlebags from the 1920’s to 1940’s.  A snippet from Coronado’s site explains, “Originally used by the Swiss Army as saddle bags for donkeys and horses, they were later converted as functional briefcase/saddle bags by adding a leather strap (something that was not originally included).  In wanting to maintain the authenticity of the original saddlebags, Coronado has designed the bag with almost 100% accuracy to the original.

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In learning this, I took to the internet to see if I could find some of these original saddlebags, and sure enough, what I found were bags that looked exactly the same as the one we were sent by Coronado, albeit in a little rougher shape.  I was amazed at how good some of these bags appeared, despite being almost as old as my grandparents.  This is a testament to an excellent design and the use of high quality leather.

The design of the saddlebag is somewhat unique in that it consists of one compartment only, which can be expanded or contracted by cinching or loosening the side straps.  There are also two 1¼” straps sewn to the inside of the bag, which can be used for securing notepads, a small tablet, or something similar.  The bag also has sloped side panels, which lowers the front panel about 2” from the back of the bag.  This was a smart design, especially if you were reaching into the bag while sitting on your horse or your ass (pun intended).  Even though most of us would not be using it that way today, I still like the ease of accessing the contents of the bag with a lowered front flap, while you are walking and wearing the bag over your shoulder.

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Another interesting feature of the bag is the top flap.  Instead of using one single piece of leather from the back of the bag all of the way to the top flap, Coronado’s Saddlebag uses two pieces that are stitched to a third, 1” strap.  Durability buffs may cringe at this, suggesting that this design makes the flap weaker–a complaint that does have some merit–but it does make the bag more flexible at the top and also allows the flap to fold completely back and lay flat against the back of the bag.  This design allows for slightly greater function and is worth the incremental decrease in durability.  The fact that many of these original Swiss military saddlebags are still around, and are even resold completely intact, suggests that there is no need to worry about the top flap coming apart.

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SIMPLICITY

Leonardo Da Vinci once said, “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”.  In creating high-quality leather goods, this maxim certainly holds true, and it is no exception for Coronado’s Swiss Military Saddlebag.  If there was only one word allowed to describe the utility of this bag, it would be simple.  It is meant to hold several things in one compartment and be incredibly durable.  It does just that.  It has no zippers or snaps, which are some of the more common items that can break on a bag, which increases the chance of the bag lasting generations.

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The bag has two ¾” straps used to close and secure the bag, which you can quickly unbuckle and undo.  In fact, I was able to buckle up and then undo the straps with just my right hand, while the bag was slung over my shoulder, which is very useful for somebody on the go.

LEATHER

One of the most, if not the most, beautiful aspects of the bag is the leather itself.  This bag has been in my office for about a month now and I find myself glancing at it every once in a while and admiring it.  The bag is made from ten ounce Horween Chromexcel leather.  This is the thickest Chromexcel leather you can buy and is significantly thicker leather than most full leather bags are made from.

Chromexcel has been produced by the Horween Leather Company for nearly one hundred years, with a very similar recipe over its existence.  With that type of pedigree, you can safely assume a high quality leather that lasts.  Chromexcel is combination tanned, meaning it is both chrome and vegetable tanned.  This produces a leather that has some of the more supple aspects of a chrome tanned leather, but the durability of a vegetable tanned leather.

Straight vegetable tanned leather that is ten ounces thick will generally be extremely rigid and very difficult to work.  It is not something that you would typically make a bag that you walk around with.  The combination tanning allows for a bag that has very thick leather, which I still cannot take my eyes off of, but is also very functional and supple.  To boot, the leather is also “struck through”, which means the color of the bag is dyed through to the middle of the leather.  Most tanneries do not take this extra step and when you cut into their leather you see the color on the top and bottom of the hide, but a blue or tan center.  This is another reason that Chromexcel is a classy choice of leather for this bag.

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HARDWARE AND THREAD

All of the hardware on Coronado’s Swiss Military Saddlebag is solid brass and is nickel plated.  Like the bag itself, the hardware is somewhat subtle and is not oversized or overbearing.  The buckles are ¾”, as are the strap rings.  True to the original design, Coronado uses a rivet where the back flap and the side panel meet, as a measure of durability and strength.  There are a few places that an additional rivet would be useful, namely to help fasten the front or the back straps.  Instead, Coronado uses thick #270 polyester thread in these places, as well as wherever stitching is required.  I would imagine that a rivet would be used in normal circumstances, but in wanting to stay true to the original design, they were not.  And again, who can argue with a design that has already stood the test of time.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado Leather is a beautiful bag based on a classic design.  The design is simple, true to its ancestors, and is made with some of the most durable, high quality leather you can find.  It is built to last generations, just like its namesake.  It is also made by a company that stands behind its products with a lifetime guarantee, making the decision of buying this bag a much easier one.  If Leonardo were still around, I would not be surprised to see him toting the Swiss Military Saddlebag from Coronado Leather.

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Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case – $145.00

Colsen Keane Tech Case

There are four leather smiths at Colsen Keane Custom Leather Goods. They make leather products to order. They take pride in paying attention to detail and taking the time to get it right. On their website, they have written, “Time leaves its mark on us… We believe that your personal time-mark is art.”

When I first saw the No 213 Tech Case by Colsen Keane, I thought it looked pretty handy. It is designed to handle all or most of your computer tech gear. We tested it and found it holds the Mac computer charger and extension cord, the iPhone charger and cord and ear pods, and a splitter to boot. This is good news for Mac users, but I’ve seen some PC chargers that would make this bag choke.

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The case measures roughly 5 1/2 inches wide by 5 1/2 inches high, and it is 3 inches deep. You might want to measure all your stuff and see if it fits. If you have a large charger, you might want to consider keeping it in your backpack, briefcase or satchel–or you might want to consider getting a Mac.

CONSTRUCTION

The leather used to make the 213 Tech Case is 5 to 6 ounces of Chocolate Crazy Horse hide. Besides Crazy Horse, which is a twenty dollar option, the Tech Case is also available in Natural Tan and Deep Black. The grade is Tannery Run (TR). When a tannery first culls the best and the worst from the lot, Tannery Run is what is left. This means the Tech Case is made from good leather–not the best, but it doesn’t need to be.

When you see leather that looks like a three-part lamination, this is because the dye did not go all the way through, which is the situation with the Crazy Horse leather. The process to get the color all the way through is costly, both in time and money, and is reserved for the more expensive leathers. This does not affect the quality, and you will never wear through to the un-dyed grain unless you drag it behind your truck for a couple miles.

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The Tech Case is hand stitched together using a 4 ounce waxed thread. This is heavy; I don’t think it will come apart or wear through unless you use a sharp knife or attack the case with an axe.

There is no hardware on the Colsen Keane Tech Case. The lid is long and tucks behind a strap across the front of the case. It seems appropriate to blend a utilitarian function into a utility case. The case wasn’t designed for or with bling; this simplicity of style is what accounts for its beauty.

FUNCTION

In the past, it was often necessary to pull my backpack apart to get to the cords I needed. This was because the backpack pockets for the tech gear did not expand, but would contour to the backpack and I could not see what I had inside–especially if I was looking for something small. This was time-consuming and irritating but, for all I knew, it was part of life and I accepted it. The Colsen Keane Tech Case has a wide throat. So now, my backpack stays orderly while needed cords and gear are always close at hand.

What also was frustrating with the backpack was the difficulty to get the pockets zipped once I had all the tech gear loaded. So, I was forced to leave them unzipped; sometimes small gear would fall out, such as the plugin module for the iPhone charger. How many times did I have to buy a new one? This is no longer a problem with the Tech Case. Even with the case full of gear, the lid is easy to close and reopen, if I need to grab something quickly.

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The daily use for me is a MacBook Pro computer charger, remote Mouse, a custom PCMCIA card adapter and cord for a small CNC machine, iPhone to Mac cord, and ear pods. The most used tools are now conveniently accessible.

Colsen Keane Tech Case on DeskThe case seems to become more relaxed with each day’s use. As a bonus, it does not fall over, as I expected, but stands upright on the desk, even with the lid open and folded back, as if waiting for me to reach in for another cord.

BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

You have probably heard the popular phrase, “Time is Money.” Well, the new meme is “Time is Art.” The Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case is well constructed with simplicity in the design. It is useful for organizing tech gear, but it looks and feels more elegant than a mere utility bag. The product is good and this writer has found the bag useful and attractive. The Crazy Horse is a good looking upgrade and well worth the extra twenty bucks. You can say the Tech Case is a work of art.
Colsen Keane Tech Case

Moore & Giles Brennan Rucksack Review – $515

Moore & Giles is a leather manufacturer based in Forest, Virginia.  They produce fine leather for the high-end hospitality industry, high-end furniture industry, and the commercial and residential interior design market.  They have been producing leather since 1933 and have established relationships with many retailers across the United States and select international countries.

(We recently posted a video produced by Moore & Giles showing how their leather is made.  It is a fantastic video and is worth re-posting here.)

With its prime business in producing excellent leather for several industries, it was just a matter of time before Moore & Giles began manufacturing their own leather bags and goods.  One interesting aspect of all of Moore & Giles leather goods is that each product is named after someone from the company.  With names like the Donald, Benedict, Graeme and Taylor, it makes one want to apply for a job with the hopes of some fine luxury good sharing your name.  With a line of high-end wallets, handbags, briefcases, dopp kits and other goods, Moore & Giles is making a name for itself in the high-end leather goods business as well.

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We recently had the opportunity of reviewing the Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles.  Rucksacks are of German origin and are essentially a smaller version of a backpack, meant to be worn over your shoulder.  Similarly, the Brennan Rucksack has a single strap for that purpose, or a handle used for carrying with one hand.

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FUNCTION

When discussing the Brennan Rucksack with Moore & Giles head designer, Thomas Brennan (the Rucksack’s namesake), he indicated that the Brennan is the go to bag for Moore & Giles’ President and Vice-President, and is used by half of the staff at their Italian Tannery.  With that type of adoption from the company’s own, there must be something special about this rucksack.  It really is pretty simple.  The rucksack is made to be compact, is durable and functional, and the leather is beautiful.

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The rucksack has a single exterior zipper that stretches from one side, over the top, to the other side.  This zipper is a #5 Excella 2-way zipper by YKK.  The YKK Group is known to produce some of the finest zippers available.  Open the zipper completely and you have easy access to the entire contents of the bag.

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The inside of the bag has a main compartment with a small pocket for your cell phone, as well as three pen sleeves.  It has a zipped pocket for various items, as well as a separate compartment, for a 13” laptop or an IPad, which is padded for support and protection.  My 13″ Macbook Air fit perfectly, but a larger 13″ laptop may be a very tight squeeze.  The rucksack also has an exterior pouch that can stash a magazine or folded over newspaper, perfect for easy access.

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Part of the advantage of the rucksack could also be a drawback– the size.  It is meant to be a more compact version of a backpack, which it is.  That means you cannot stuff if with a lot of gear, and the largest laptop it fits is 13”.  If you need a lot of room for all your books or gear, or have a bigger computer, you would be better off with one of Moore & Giles’ messenger bags or briefcases.  The bag works well for me though.  I’m able to fit my Macbook Air, notebook cover from Saddleback Leather, journal, and other items without a problem.

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LEATHER

With a huge variety of leather to choose from for this bag, Moore & Giles went with their Titan Milled leather.   A description from Moore & Giles website indicates that “these natural leathers are produced on the finest hides available, then processed with pure water straight from the Italian alps.  An innovative hot wax tannage technique highlights the natural tones and rich colors of this leather that will only be enhanced over time in both feel and appearance”.  Then, the leather undergoes a natural milling process which provides a worn, pebbled appearance.  At first, I thought the leather was embossed, but the milling process itself actually shrinks the hide and pulls out the pebbled appearance.  The result is impressive.  The bag has a supple feel, but feels very sturdy at the same time.

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All of Moore & Giles leathers are either full grain or top-grain (top-grain leather is “corrected” in some way, usually sanded to eliminate imperfections, while full grain leather is not corrected).  The Brennan Rucksack is of the full grain variety, which has the tightest grain possible.  The vast majority of Moore & Giles leathers are around 1.2 mm thick (three ounces).  The Brennan is no exception, being made from three to three and a half ounce leather.  For leather novices, leather thickness is typically defined in ounces.  If a one square foot piece of leather weighs three ounces, then it is three ounce leather.  The thicker the leather is, the heavier the leather will be; therefore, thicker leather is always associated with a higher number of ounces.

The Titan Milled leather is both vegetable and chrome tanned, in a one hundred and fifty year old Italian tannery, with old world techniques.  The leather is folder over on most of the edges of the bag, which provides for a soft feel.  The zipper pull leather edges are actually burnished, which is a nice touch for such a small detail.  The leather is also “struck through,” which means it has been drum dyed until the dyes soak all of the way through the leather.  This is a time consuming process, requiring much more time than normal in the large dye drums, that only the finest leathers undergo.

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LINING

The lining for the Brennan is a custom jacquard, which Moore & Giles has custom made for them in Italy.  A jacquard is an intricate weave, named after the French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard, and allows for complex woven-in designs, such as the company’s logo.  The lining feels very durable and appears to be of the variety which allows for easy cleanup if you happen to drip your morning coffee into it while reaching for the paper.

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THREAD AND HARDWARE

Moore & Giles uses cast zinc hardware for the three D rings on the bag, as well as for the strap clips.  They have an antique brass finish, which pairs well with the dark brown leather.

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The Brennan is also sewn with dark brown, size 92 polyester thread.  Polyester thread is significantly stronger than cotton thread and much more so than even tough nylon.  It is the same type of thread used for making sails and parachutes.  It is the type of thread you want your bag to be held together by.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Brennan Rucksack from Moore & Giles is crafted from leather that is durable and beautiful, and the bag is constructed very well.  It is produced by a company with a long history of producing some of the finest leathers and leather goods made.  It is a classy alternative to a backpack and a bag you would be proud of owning.

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Saddleback Leather Thin Briefcase Review – $474

If a bag is something you use every day, then sooner or later you’ll come to realize that it’s worth the money to invest in something of better quality. One year ago I was in this predicament and I finally decided to bite the bullet and spend a little more on a leather briefcase. I wanted something durable that would last, as well as something functional and easy on the eyes. When the mail arrived with my Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase I knew I had made the right choice.

After opening the clear plastic packaging and slipping the briefcase out, I immediately noticed the aroma of the fresh leather. You know the smell. Before I examined the bag any further, I had to first bring it close to my face and take a few seconds to enjoy the scent–something I’ve repeated many times since.

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Aesthetic

Saddleback Leather is known for their classic briefcase. It is a beautiful design, but at 9 inches deep, it is a little too big for my tastes. The thin briefcase is a 4 1/2 inch deep version of the same design, minus the cool belts that wrap around the whole bag.

I originally got the medium, but as soon as I opened the package I knew it was too small. At 15 inches wide, it looked too small in my hand and too small over my shoulder. The carrying capacity was fine; I was able to snuggly fit my 15 inch Asus laptop in it, but it just didn’t look right to me. I am not a huge guy (I’m about 5 feet 10 inches tall with broad shoulders), but it looked like a mini briefcase on my frame. So I contacted Saddleback and exchanged it for the large, which their customer service made very easy for me.

As soon as I saw the Large Thin Briefcase, I knew I had made the right decision. It’s 17 inches wide, 12 1/2 inches tall, and 4 1/2 inches deep. Like all of Saddleback’s bags it’s made from full grain leather and doesn’t have any zippers, snaps, or anything like that. Instead it’s all straps, buckles, and D-rings.

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The aesthetic is classic and the design is functional, but it’s not for everyone. I don’t necessarily see it as a slick accessory for an executive in the boardroom. It is more suited to a photographer lugging gear around the city or a young professor carrying documents across campus. However you choose to use it though, be prepared to get noticed and receive compliments.

The more I have used this bag, the more beautiful it has become. Over time, it has collected scratches, scuffs, and wrinkles that make for a beautiful patina. As the leather softens and develops more character, it only adds to the classic and already attractive design of the bag. And with Saddleback’s 100 year warranty, you’re guaranteed to be able to use this briefcase for a lifetime.

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Construction

Some other bags you’ll come across will have seams at the edges of the bottom, or a seam down the middle of the bottom, which binds multiple smaller pieces of leather. But each seam is a potential weak point, which is a problem for someone who wants their briefcase to last a lifetime. Saddleback’s thin briefcase is made up of only four main pieces of leather: the front flap going around all the way down the back, the front panel, and the two gussets that run the entire length of the bag.

It is all double-stitched and the stress areas are reinforced with copper and brass rivets, as well as hidden polyester strips. The hardware is nickel-plated brass and can hold up well against any abuse you’d give it.

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On the inside it’s made up of two main compartments, with a pigskin pocket and two side pockets in the front compartment, and a simple open compartment in the back. The inside is lined with pigskin, which is incredibly tough stuff made to reinforce the already tough full grain leather. An additional full-sized pocket runs along the back of the briefcase. There aren’t a ton of compartments, it’s more of a minimalist approach, and with the lack of zippers and pockets it might not to be to some people’s liking.

Functionality

It’s surprising how much can be packed into this thin briefcase. I carry it with me every day and it is typically filled with my laptop, notebooks, lunch bag, pens, knife, folders, and often much more. The more you pack in, the more the leather stretches and bulges to accommodate a full capacity. Is it heavy? Yes–compared to many of the other options out there, especially a canvas bag. But it’s tough leather and in my opinion looks much better, so it’s a trade-off you’ll have to consider. Do not expect this briefcase to float in the air behind you, but it will not bend your spine, either.

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This briefcase has been used almost every day back and forth from my house to my office, and the leather has softened considerably, especially in the front strap and shoulder strap. The front flap in particular has developed a lot of wrinkles, but there is not any cracking, nor anything that is not natural for leather.

You can put it in backpack mode by running the strap through the large O-ring on the back, but I never have a need to use it that way. I removed one of the shoulder strap pads because I only wear it across the body over my shoulder. Except for a little bit of fuzz on the handle, the stitching has held together well. And despite getting a heavy amount of usage, there are no signs on the hardware of wear, weakness, or anything broken.

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Best Leather Conclusion

Ultimately I’m very happy with the Saddleback Leather Large Thin Briefcase and I recommend it to anyone who relies on a briefcase or bag to carry their stuff around on a regular basis. It’s a little bit heavier and might not have all the compartments and zippers some like, but it’s strong leather that will carry your gear for decades to come, all while developing a beautiful patina. If you don’t have a briefcase from Saddleback Leather yet, I recommend either going to buy one or start saving.

Check out the thorough 1-year-later video below.

Colsen Keane Limited Edition Sale Today through Sunday

CK140321This weekend, Colsen Keane Custom Leather Goods is having a sale on limited edition leathers! 15% OFF with the Coupon Code “CKlimitededition”.

Although there still is a good selection of distressed satchels, when you get to the site, you will see most the limited edition items are sold out.

Coupon code expires on 23 March 2014.

Colsen Keane has a great reputation for quality leather goods – and you can save 15% this weekend.

Click the coupon to go to the site and view the items in the Limited Edition.

An Introduction To Origins Leather Company

At BestLeather.org, we search out companies that are committed to the values we hold dear: commitment to high quality leather craftsmanship, original design, and the best leather and materials available.  We love to share their stories when we find these companies.  One such young company has recently come to our attention — Origins Leather Company.

kickstarter

I found Origins as a result of perusing Kickstarter.  Impressed with what I saw, I inquired and made the connection.  The Origins Leather Company will be sending us their briefcase to review in June or July, and after that, they will be sending us one for a giveaway.  We look forward to that, but are excited to give you a sneak peak at some of their products and design.

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design

The Origins Leather company was formed by Aaron Dean, Erik Sjolie, and Michael Sjolie.  They created the company to bring to market high quality leather goods for both business and casual use.  Classic design and functionality were their focus for product creation.  From what I have seen of their products so far, simple design seems to be important as well.  They have eliminated pockets, straps, or stitching that is unnecessary, and stuck with the basics.  Also, they have eliminated lining in their bags, not only as a means of keeping their bags lighter weight, but also to provide a more natural feel to the inside of their bags.

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leather

Origins uses only vegetable tanned, five to six ounce leather.  To them, using vegetable tanned leather is not only more environmentally friendly (much more so than chrome tanning), but it is a leather that is in most cases more durable.  It is also a little more rigid, which allows for better bag construction — lighter weight leather with sufficient structure.  They currently are offering one beautiful color, which they are calling Trunk Chestnut.

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craftsmanship

Origins felt that in order to succeed in beginning their company, they needed to partner with craftsman that create products meant to last generations. They were fortunate to be able to partner with the same company that makes Saddleback Leather’s bags and products.  Similar to Saddleback, Origins is offering a 100 year guarantee on their products.  That is serious faith in your materials and your craftsmanship.  Anybody familiar with a Saddleback bag can certainly understand why they feel comfortable with this guarantee.  To help support that guarantee, they use solid copper rivets, solid brass hardware and tough as nails polyester thread.

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products

The Origin Leather Company is currently offering six products.  The associated prices below are based on what they are currently offering through Kickstarter, meaning these prices won’t last long:

  • A Briefcase – $325
  • A Writers Bag – $225
  • A Travelers Pouch – $90
  • The Tote Bag – $150
  • Koozies (A pint glass holder) – $50 for four
  • Wallet – $30

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BestLeather conclusion

If you are currently in the market for any of these items, now is a great time to take advantage of Origin’s Kickstarter campaign, and pick up some goods for less than the soon-to-be retail price.  I am excited to get my hands on their briefcase.  Good luck on your Kickstarter campaign Origins; we look forward to working with you.

Heritage Leather Company Mason Bag Review – $141.83

The Heritage Leather Company creates and manufactures durable goods for the working man or woman.  With a product line that consists of tool bags, tool satchels, knee pads, leather aprons, and more, Heritgage Leather has a focus on making goods that are meant to be used and abused.  As such, they have a commitment to producing goods that are durable, functional, but affordable.  BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a few items from Heritage Leather, their 16” Mason Tool Bag, their Pliers Holder, and their Six Pocket Tool Pouch.

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the leather

Considering we are a site about leather, my first impressions are usually focused on the leather itself, and with Heritage Leather’s goods, there was no exception.  For the Pliers Holder and Tool Pouch, Heritage Leather uses vegetable tanned, natural colored, four to five ounce leather.  Similar in function to saddle leather, this leather can be formed and molded for a specific purpose, and retain that shape for many years.  It is the color of leather that patinas to a golden hue over time, that is very stout, and is very durable.  In other words, it’s the right leather choice to hold tools.

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Heritage Leather Company2

The majority of the Mason Bag is made of heavy duty, 18 ounce canvas.  Heavy canvas, instead of leather, is a reasonable choice for a large tool bag, considering tools in and of themselves are heavy.  The light weight canvas is stout enough, but light enough to make the bag comfortable to carry, even when loaded with tools.  To support these tools and ensure that the bag holds together for a long time, Heritage uses one solid, thick, top grain piece of leather for the bottom of the bag.  This leather is chrome tanned.  Personally, I would prefer vegetable tanned leather for the bottom of the bag, because of its increased durability, but the choice of using thick leather compensates and ensures a long life.

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The handles and closure straps of the mason bag are made of four to five ounce vegetable tanned, natural colored leather, the same as their tool pouches.  This is stout, very durable leather, that is meant to hold up to years of use.

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function

After spending a couple weeks with the goods from Heritage Leather, it was obvious that they focus on producing items that have a very specific purpose, and that these items must serve that purpose well.  The Pliers Holder has the right size pocket for an average pair of pliers.  The Tool Pouch has enough pockets to carry the essentials for a number of small tasks, like hanging a painting, repairing a broken gate, or fixing that leaky faucet.  The Mason Bag has a wide mouth, which makes it easy to drop tools into, and quickly pull tools from the bag.  I really liked this design for a tool bag.  When I am trying to fix something, the last thing I want to mess around with is trying to get my bag open, or to search inside the bag for the right tool.  The wide mouth design of the Mason Bag eliminates this hassle.

Like a classic tool bag, the Mason Bag opens from the inside outward, to provide complete access to the entire bag.  It opens and closes easily, and the straps keep the bag cinched shut when transporting tools, or not in use.  I found that the metal frame made it easier to carry the bag around, even with tools in it, without using the straps.

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the details

The well known idiom, “The Devil is in the details” is just as true in leather working as in any other craft, if not more so.  I can quickly tell when a leather good is made to high standards by focusing on some of the details, the type of stitching used, the quality of the hardware, the overall design of an item, etc.

After spending some time with these Heritage Leather goods, it is obvious that they are a company that remembers the details.  Heritage uses strong, nylon thread for all of its bags, pouches, and tool holders.  With thread weight anywhere from a size 69 to a size 277 (the larger the number, the thicker the thread), they use what is most appropriate for the item being crafted.

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Heritage also uses steel, nickel plated hardware for it’s buckles and rings.  They also use metal studs for the bottom of their mason bags, for better wear and tear protection.  Similarly, they insert a thick piece of water resistant fiberboard in the bottom of the bag, to provide enough rigidity for an ample supply of tools.

In speaking to Heritage about their Mason Bag, they pointed out that they replaced the original steel frame with an aluminum frame as a means of making the bag a little lighter, while still maintaining enough strength and rigidity.  Couple the lighter weight nature of the bag, with the provided shoulder strap, and lots of space, and you could actually use the bag as your overnight bag for a campout or other excursion.  Dual purpose, I like that.

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price

It is fairly unusual in the world of quality leather, to get a quality good for a low price.  The equation: High quality = high prices is generally true.  The mathematics are pretty plain and simple.  I think Heritage Leather comes as close as possible to bucking this equation as a company can.  They currently sale their Pliers Holder for $6.78.  The Tool Pouch is $22.32 and the Mason Bag is $141.83.  For leather products that are made in the good ole’ U.S. of A, those are darn good prices for very good quality items.

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BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a tool pouch, bag, or other leather tool accessory, the Heritage Leather Company is a great choice, plain and simple.

This Weekend Save 15% on all Satchels at Colsen Keane

colsonKeane15offMar14-16If you have been putting off your satchel purchase, Colsen Keane now gives you a reason to put this off no longer. This weekend only, all their satchels are 15% off with the coupon code CKsatchel. Click the image to go to the site.

BTW: If you are interested in a handy tech bag, or gadget bag. We are currently reviewing the Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case. Look for the review here in about a week to ten days.

Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffel Review & Giveaway (Winner: Nick S.)- $655

[Congratulations to Nick S. for winning this beautiful Saddleback Leather bag out of 13,000 entries. He told me he would be using the bag for traveling and overnight trips!]

The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer.

For all of its beauty, however, there is what (initially) seems like a huge red flag: the strap containing the buckles that secure the side pocket flaps is fixed to the main pocket flap. It is just one long strap across the top of the bag that gets threaded through loops on the side pocket flaps and buckled to the side pockets themselves. This means that you cannot open the main pocket without the side pockets being unfastened. Either you travel with your side pockets unfastened, or you have to open three buckles every time you want to get into your main compartment. Opening the main flap all the way requires you to unthread that strap from the side pocket flaps. If you were opening the bag many times per day, this could get quite old.

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When I first saw this, I was surprised. Saddleback is typically very thoughtful in their designs.  SURELY, they know best and there is some brilliant reason for this that I will love once I figure it out. SURELY, they would not offer a bag with such an obvious design flaw. It seems that Dave uses his prototypes for something like 20 years to perfect them, sending a complimentary bag to Jesus of Nazareth by angelic courier via Jacob’s Ladder, and offering the remainder for sale to the rest of us.

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Then I remembered that this is luggage! The majority of my Saddleback Leather products happen to be everyday use items (like my backpack). But not so much with this one; you will put all your travel goodies in it and only open it up when you arrive.  More than likely, it will stay open on the hotel bed until you depart.

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As usual, you can see pictures and a 3D model of the bag on the Saddleback website, and you can see Dave handling the bag and commenting on it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kcf_gd-QNUQ. Also, as is par for the course, there are a number of reviews floating around on the web. The reviews on the site and on Amazon are standard SBL fare—the kind of glowing testimonials you would expect on an SBL piece.

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One issue that kept coming up is whether or not it fits into the overhead bins on various aircraft. One reviewer said it did not fit “easily” into an overhead bin on an aircraft flown by Southwest, though I assume that it ultimately did fit. Another said it fit easily into an overhead bin on a Jet Blue airplane, and a flyer in a Delta MD80 did not have any issues. In the video, Dave basically says it fits until it does not, in which case it fits below your seat. Based on the dimensions on Saddleback’s website (20.25” x 10” x 11.25”), it should be well within most airline carry-on size restrictions. If you are truly worried, you can lookup the dimensions acceptable to your airline for your upcoming flight at www.seatguru.com.

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For all of my complaining about the top flap, the five straps do add more security for checking the bag if it is unable to be a carry-on, and the flap is generous enough to keep out heavy precipitation (the lack of which on my Rustic Leather mailbag—despite how much I love it—plagues me).

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Users also seem to disagree about the utility of the interior pocket. In the video, Dave explains that it is for muddy sandals, sweaty clothes, or seashells (basically, anything you’d rather keep separate from your other garments). I say brilliant. Cut it out if it truly bothers you. It’s supposed to be floppy, but, being constructed from that nice pigskin, the one in this bag is fairly rigid (for now).

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It’s nice to see that the interior pocket is merely pigskin, and not the leather/pigskin sandwich that used to be used for literally every panel and pocket everywhere. I have an older version of the backpack, which I love, but it is quite heavy. A lot of the pigskin is just unnecessary, and it seems Saddleback has become sensitive to that. This duffle, like the newer backpacks, is constructed using a more appropriate use of pigskin (for example, the side pockets are unlined), which keeps the duffel a bit lighter.

Another deliberate aspect of the design, which I was glad to have pointed out to me, is the flat handle. I love the round briefcase handle and wish my backpack had the same. For me, it is much more satisfying to hold the rigid, round handles than the flat ones. However, they can cause problems for a bag of these dimensions when being stuffed into an overhead bin.

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From a practical standpoint, this bag should have enough space for the average adult to comfortably pack for a 2-3 day trip, minus any speciality equipment or bulky warm clothing. That said, you can fit your blueprints, map tubes, or harpoons right underneath the top flap of this bag and still fasten it closed, if you run the top strap through slits designed for this purpose. The side pockets can fit about three cans of beer.

BestLeather conclusion

This is a nice bag that is excellent for travel, but does not seem designed for the everyday grind (unless yours is at 35,000 feet in between investment property visits). Aesthetically, it is a knockout and the construction is the standard robust Saddleback Leather fare.

Check out the Side Pocket Duffel on Saddleback Leather’s website here.

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A Vintage Filson Briefcase Computer Bag Review

A quietly vibrant city tucked into the northwestern corner of Washington State, Seattle has been home to many industries. Grunge music was born in the drizzly gray that Seattleites are so used to and with it came the article of clothing that Seattle has become most famous for: the plaid flannel shirt. A simple design born in the mountains, worn by loggers and people who just enjoy being warm, the plaid flannel shirt has been around since the beginning of Seattle when the timber industry took root in the abundant forest growth surrounding the sleepy city. And, it was because of this growing industry that Clinton C. Filson moved from Nebraska to Seattle and began outfitting loggers in flannel shirts and workwear. C.C. Filson is as much of a Seattle institution as grunge, rain, and logging. Filson was there from the beginning.

C.C. Filson

Clinton C. Filson was a Nebraskan working on the railroad in the late 1890s when he decided to uproot himself and move west to Seattle. Hearing of the growing logging industry in the Pacific Northwest and the gold rush in Alaska, he moved to the Emerald City and started a logging outfitter — designing, manufacturing, and selling quality and heroically durable goods was his specialty.

He began specifically designing gear for prospectors heading north to Alaska — clothing, blankets, sleeping bags, and boots. This was the beginning of Filson as we know it — then known as C.C. Filson’s Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers.

In 1899, he shifted his focus to hunting, fishing, and logging. And thus, C.C. Filson was born. The company remained in the Filson family until 1981 when it was sold to Stan Kohls, a skiwear designer who brought the production up from 35 to over 250 goods, all the while refraining from modern technology so as to retain the authenticity of the product. Quality. Durability. American made.

In 2005, Filson was bought by Brentwood Associates and then sold again to Bedrock Manufacturing Co., out of Texas. Though ownership of the company has changed hands numerous times, their attention to quality, craftsmanship, and durability has never fallen by the wayside. Filson products are built to last.

the story of my bag

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My father bought one of the first generations of briefcases released by Filson in the early 90’s. He is a doctor and therefore works obscene hours — both at the office and at home. Lugging patient files around was something he knew he was going to have to do and, knowing he was going to have to do it every day, back and forth, he wanted something that was going to be up for the job. Filson became his top choice and he bought a large briefcase/computer bag — one of the first of the line. When he purchased the smaller Original Briefcase a few years ago, he gave me his original Filson bag.

Since he bought the bag, it has been all over the globe. It has toured Europe multiple times, it has felt the moisture of a Seattle drizzle, it has felt the heat of Arizona, braved the snow of B.C., been in two-seater planes, been strapped to the pannier rack of a bicycle, trekked through the forest on adventures — in short, there are few places that my bag has not been. It has seen the world.

And it wants to see more.

construction

A huge YKK zipper and double stitched leather means this thing isn't going anywhere.
A huge YKK zipper and double stitched leather means this thing isn’t going anywhere.

There is one word to describe the construction of a Filson product — bombproof. With a combination of oiled twill canvas and bridle leather bound by double stitching and a doubled canvas bottom, as soon as you even lay eyes on this thing, you know that it is not going anywhere. The Filson is built for life and everything that life throws at it along the way.

The roller buckle on the shoulder strap helps preserve the leather -- basically, this is how my strap is still functioning.
The roller buckle on the shoulder strap helps preserve the leather — basically, this is how my strap is still functioning.

The canvas is Filson’s own 22oz 100% Cotton Oil Finish Rugged Twill. 22oz. This stuff is beyond bombproof — it’s nuke proof. Well, maybe not quite that strong, but it will take absolutely everything you can throw at it.

The classic Filson handle. You can see how the leather looked when it was new as compared to how it looks used.
The classic Filson handle. You can see how the leather looked when it was new as compared to how it looks used.

The doubled bottom of the bag is a defining feature of Filson bags; basically, two layers of their canvas are stitched together, then used for the bottom of the bag. Two layers of 22oz canvas basically turns the bottom of the bag into 44oz canvas and will therefore take the abuse of a ridiculous amount of weight and pressure. You really can put anything in this bag and know that it won’t be going anywhere.

The YKK zipper is covered by a flap of oiled canvas for good security and water protection.
The YKK zipper is covered by a flap of oiled canvas for good security and water protection.

aesthetic

The Filson Briefcase is a classic look that really will not ever go out of style. Filson has mastered the definining canvas/leather combination that most other companies strive to emulate. The best part? It only gets better with age.

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With tan canvas and dark brown leather, the Filson bag has the feel of a rugged, yet collegiate workhorse. In other words, this bag is as at home in your office as it is deep in the woods of British Columbia or on the deck of a commercial salmon boat in the frothing waves of the Pacific or in a cafe in downtown Portland or Seattle. This bag really fits in all places with all styles; it is an aesthetic jack-of-all-trades.

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This bag has remained unchanged in style and aesthetic since it was released in the early 90’s. The new bags look identical to my vintage bag, and I really like that. The only difference is that my bag has obviously seen 20+ years of heavy use and wear, but I think the beautiful patina that my bag has devoloped over the years of use makes it look even better.

The patina that appears with wear is really the best aesthetic feature of this bag. The dirt, ink stains, wear around the edges, and scuffs and dull glow of well-worn leather give this bag life. In other words, this is a product that grows with you. As you use it, as you live with it; as you yourself grow, the bag grows with you. I really like buying a product that is aesthetically good when you buy it and even better after 20 years of use.

function

With a laptop sleeve, two separate document sleeves, copious amounts of pockets for pens, pencils, laptop chargers, and not to mention the cavernous space in between the designated pockets, plus the two exterior file pockets, this bag certainly is not lacking in space. Plus, it is comfortable to wear and carry and gives easy access to the main compartment. The function of this bag, really, is fantastic.

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Use it for school, use it for work, use it for life, coffeeshop runs, daily errands, travel, whatever your needs may be, this bag will meet it with a grin. And you’ll look classically rugged while doing it, so it’s definitely a win-win. The fact of the matter is that men who use Filson bags are 67% more likely to attract a female than men who don’t. *

*Though women do, in fact, dig men who wear Filson (as we are ruggedly handsome, yet stylish as well), this statistic does not reflect actual population, just the opinions and observations of a male with a Filson bag.

BestLeather conclusion

Because this is a vintage bag and personal to me, I obviously cannot recommend that you go out and buy this specific bag. I can however, recommend that you buy a new Filson bag.

Why? A Filson bag seems to transcend “bag”. It transcends “briefcase”, it transcends “tool”, it transcends “case”. The Filson bag really will become your companion, your friend. It grows with you, it lives with you, goes where you go, carries what you carry, and becomes what you are, essentially. For instance, if you are a businessman, the bag will wear with your documents. If you are a student, the bag will wear with your books and your laptop. If you are an outdoorsman, nature will imbue itself in the canvas. In other words, this bag is not just a bag. It is so much more than that. It becomes something that you appreciate more and more each and every day, as it grows with age and use and becomes better and better. This is a bag not only built and meant for life, but built with a life.

A genuine Filson.
A genuine Filson.

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reasons to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

The thought of putting hundreds of dollars into a simple bag that will carry your goods is often understandably troubling. After all, why spend hundreds of dollars when you can just spend fifty to do the same thing? However, you should know these facts as you go about making a decision on how much to spend.

Personally, I have not seen another industry that more truly reflects the cliche “you get what you pay for” than the leather industry. Competition is so fierce that any attempts to raise prices dramatically over market rates will quickly result in bankruptcy.

longevity through durability

Because of the high quality components on a good bag you won’t have to buy another one again, until you want to.

There are leather organ bellows that are 40-60 years old that still work perfectly because they have been well maintained. The Swiss Army used leather bags in their pack trains and examples can be found in excellent condition over 100 years old. Is someone going to be carrying your bag in 100 years?

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Saddleback Leather

classiness

For example; take a close look at a Basader bag vs a Cole Hann bag. Is there any comparison?

That Basader bag’s leather is thicker, the thread is better, the hardware is far superiour, the engineering is more robust, and you get to work with a small personal company. Philip & Elin are great. Their bag is going to last MUCH longer.

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Basader

patina

Time and use will destroy a cheap bag but a quality leather bag will keep on trucking. It is only going to look better with time.

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Kenton Sorenson

Pass your lifetime bag on to your children.

Instead of a garbage pit.

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Thrux Lawrence

Why have a bunch of cheap bags over your lifetime when you can have one far superior bag that you will greatly enjoy?

Use your leather bag every day and you will develop a working relationship with your leather bag that you would never have with a cheap bag. You trust it. It serves you well through the decades. It is your trusty leather bag.

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Skytop Trading

It makes strong financial sense.

How many cheap bags and backpacks have you purchased so far in life? How many will you purchase in the remainder of your life? What does the value of all those bags add up to? What’s the cost of a quality bag again? Doesn’t sound so crazy now does it?

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Whipping Post

For example:

7 nylon landfill bags X $50 each = $350 = one quality leather bag

So, what are you waiting for?

read more in the “Buy It for Life” series

Buy It For Life – Part One: Durability

Buy It For Life – Part Two: Aesthetics

Buy It For Life – Part Three: Design

Buy It For Life – Part Four: Cost

Buy It For Life – Part Five: Cachet

Buy It For Life – Part Six: Buy For Life Every Time?

Buy It For Life – Part Seven: 6 Rational Reason to Buy An Expensive Leather Bag Instead Of An Inexpensive Bag

Buy It For Life – Part Eight: What You Should Find In A Long Lasting Leather Bag