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June 20, 2014January 25, 2020

Eight Month Checkup On The Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack – $582

My Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack gets used every day. It’s been a trusty backpack to haul quite a lot to quite a few places. I have simutaneously carried a 17″ MacBook, Canon 6D, extra large lens, notebooks, several books, chargers, and lots of miscellaneous items on long trips. There are two huge advantages to this bag that make it much more usable than the Classic Tank backpack; it’s comfortable and roomy.

Soon it will be replaced by the Basader Gusset Messenger Bag.

after eight months – is it comfortable?

Comfort is ensured with shoulder straps that are flexible and break in quick. The previous iteration had straps that weren’t terrible, but would cause serious chafing if you carried it for several hours. Also, the back of the backpack is one large piece of leather that molds to your back instead of molding a crease into it. This is the most comfortable leather product, including briefcases, I have used that has this kind of capacity.

Because of the more flexible design and some extra inches, you can fit a lot more in there. Overnight trips, school, work, diaper bag, whatever–it’s going to fit a lot.

But, that stuff is boring and you probably already know because I wrote a few reviews on it already.

patina – that nice aged look

The interesting bit is the patina–that classy aged look leather acquires when it is used. Here are some pictures from this evening in a nice sunset. This is something like eight months of use. The most wear is on the bottom of the bag and I provided a close up photo of the thread.

(Pro tip: if you want to take good pictures of your goodies, wait till the sun is coming up or going down. It’s very soft warm light.)

Check out the Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack here.

Saddleback Leather Squared Backpack

June 19, 2014December 19, 2017

About The Hermann Oak Leather Company

The Hermann Oak Leather Company was founded in 1881 by Louis Charles Hermann to supply the settlers and wagon trains headed west. The company grew over the years and became a supplier of leather for US soldiers in both World Wars, and countless artisans and craftsman since.

Since its inception, the company has been committed to producing the highest quality vegetable tanned leathers for a variety of purposes. Today, the company is actively managed by Shep Hermann, one of the nicest guys you could talk to, who is committed to continuing the company’s traditional methods of tanning, but implementing new technologies and systems where appropriate. When speaking to Shep about his company, it quickly became obvious that he has a passion for quality leather and continuing Hermann Oak’s storied traditions. He is extremely knowledgeable and is happy to share that knowledge.

HIGH QUALITY FURNITURE

In my conversation with Shep, he likened vegetable tanned leather to high quality furniture. When building furniture out of high quality wood, like mahogany or walnut, you do not paint the wood after building the furniture; you stain it. Stain is comprised of smaller molecules that actually adhere to the wood. The stain allows you to see and appreciate the fine grains and beautiful natural appearance of the underlying wood.

Similarly, with vegetable tanned leather, the leather is tanned using an age old tanning process with organic tree barks. The underlying tone of the leather is a rich natural brown, like wood, and this tanning process allows you to appreciate the underlying beauty of the leather. This is especially true when using full grain leather, which Hermann Oak supplies. Most leathers were vegetable tanned like this prior to 1900. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather is then finished in the old fashioned way using analine dyes, oils, and waxes. Like staining wood, this does not cover up the underlying color of the leather.

Chrome tanned leather, on the other hand, has an underlying blue/gray appearance and is finished with pigments (which is basically paint). These pigments are comprised of larger molecules that are basically glued to the leather. This covers the leather, so that you cannot see what is underneath. This process is similar to painting a pine cabinet. What is underneath is different than what you see on the outside. Chrome tanned leather certainly has its place, like painted pine furniture does, but that place is not with high quality leather products. Hermann Oak leather is more like a beautiful mahogany sideboard. Even though the wood is highly finished, you still can see and appreciate the beautiful underlying wood grains. Many of the leather goods we have reviewed in past articles are made from Hermann Oak leather, a testament to a high quality product.

ADVANTAGES OF VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER

Shep pointed out a few other things that were interesting about their vegetable tanned leather:

1. Vegetable tanned leather has more body (firmness). It is more rich and more rigid. This is a result of the process of tanning leather with natural tree barks. Chrome tanned leather is softer and much more pliable.

2. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather is always cool to the touch, because vegetable tanned leather is actually an insulator. Conversely, chrome tanned leather is a conductor, and the leather is either hot or cold to the touch, depending on the environment. Have you ever sat on your car’s leather seats on a summer day? Ouch!

3. Vegetable tanned leather can also be rubbed smooth or burnished, whereas chrome tanned leather cannot.

4. Vegetable tanned leather is also mold-able and can be shaped to meet various needs, whereas chrome tanned leather cannot.

5. Hermann Oak’s vegetable tanned leather will accept oils from your hands and the result is that vegetable tanned leather patinas over time, giving the leather a beautiful, aged look. Chrome tanned leather does not patina.

Hermann Oak sent BestLeather.org four of their premium hides, two of their English Bridle, one Sierra Latigo, and one Harness side. These leathers are all similar in respects, but they also have a few differences that give them their distinguishing characteristics.

OIL CONTENT

Possibly the biggest difference is the oil content in the different leathers. English Bridle has the least amount of oil. The Latigo has a middle amount of oil and is meant to secure a saddle onto a horse. It is meant to be more sweat resistant than English Bridle. The Harness Leather has the highest amount of beef tallows or oils. This is meant for working harnesses for horses. It is meant to be very resistant to horse sweat, rain, sun, snow, and the elements in general. The English Bridle is the firmest, but Harness is pretty similar in firmness. Latigo is the softest leather of the three. The Latigo is most similar to what was produced 100 years ago by Hermann Oak. English Bridle also has a higher degree of finish. The Latigo and Harness are more of the working leathers and the English Bridle is meant to have a finer appearance. The English Bridle has special waxes to give it a shine and finer appearance.

FUTURE BESTLEATHER ARTICLES

Best Leather will be posting separate articles on each of these four hides and will highlight some of these differences. Stay tuned to learn more about Hermann Oak’s premium leathers. In the meantime, take a video tour of their process and tannery.

June 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Kenton Sorenson Modern Man Front Pocket Wallet Review – $90

Leatherworking can be art. Each leather company is looking for a way to do something different. Everyone wants to be unique, to stand out for doing things better. Because there are only so many things you can do with leather, it’s not uncommon to see similar designs (sometimes with fancy expensive letters being sent from lawyers). The eye for design escapes many who punch and stitch, but not Kenton Sorenson. Vegetable tanned leather is what Kenton does. You could say he specializes in it. Frankly, design wise, he is my favorite. And I’ve seen a lot of leather.

construction

The leather is a tight grain 4 oz vegetable tan cowhide. High quality. You can feel the quality in how dense the leather is. The microscopic strands that make up the leather are very small and tightly packed together. This is because the leather is taken from the best part of the hide, which is generally the midsection and the rear quarter. The rest of the hide can be fine for use but premium leather goods are generally cut from this area because there are less stretch marks or scars. Stretch marks are where the hide has to absorb the impact of movement. The stomach of the cow has the most stretch marks. Thread is bonded nylon which is extremely strong. A groove is cut into the leather that the thread sits in so it doesn’t wear a lot as you pull it out. The edges are very well burnished. My style preference is for any sophisticated leather piece to have well burnished edges

function

Dimensionally this wallet is no bigger than any other wallet and yet for its minimal design you can fit a lot in it. It has a large center slot pocket and slit pockets on each side. At the moment I have 6 credit card-like cards, several bills of cash, and eleven business cards without feeling like there is too much in it. Normally a wallet that can pack that much has so many layers of leather that it is more like a booster seat. I like to have my oft-used credit card in one side slit, cash and frequent buyer coffee card in the other, and business cards and ancillary credit cards and DL in the center slot. The main advantage over other minimal wallets is speed. With two quick access pockets you don’t hold up the checkout line sorting through your wallet.

aesthetic

There are four defining features, in my opinion, that imbue this design with class: the well burnished edges, the perfectly curved outer pockets, the inlaid stitching, and the excellent vegetable tanned leather. Burnishing is time consuming and often overlooked; it’s rare to find leather cut this perfectly. The inlaid stitching is a nice functional touch, and the vegetable tanned leather only gets better with use. A fine feature of veg tanned leather goods is the patina the item will acquire. As you use your wallet it will turn a golden brown hue.

conclusion

You very much get what you pay for with this wallet. Some will charge you this kind of money for a much sloppier wallet and call it rustic. Whatever their reasoning, few match this level of craftsmanship and skill. For $90, you can have a beautiful and entirely usable minimal wallet. Oh, and it fits in more than just your front pocket. Check out the Kenton Sorenson Modern Man Front Pocket Wallet.

June 11, 2014December 19, 2017

The Freight Duffel from Thrux Lawrence Review – $570

Thrux Lawrence is a men’s essential dry goods supplier out of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, with a philosophy of building the highest quality goods from the highest quality materials. Products from Thrux will certainly outlast you and the following generation to come. To read more about Thrux Lawrence and its founder Tanden Launder, please check out my previous article here. The latest product to come out of the imagination of Tanden Launder, owner, founder, and designer at Thrux Lawrence, is a duffel like none that I have ever seen. Without further ado, I give you the Freight from Thrux Lawrence.

the Freight Duffel

Tanden wanted to create a bag that could be used on longer journeys without sacrificing size or quality–a bag that could carry all of your essentials for longer forays. The result was a duffel bag in full Thrux style, complete with the classic “Thrux Tray” (a solid, two layer 9oz leather base plate) and 24oz anti-mildew canvas. In other words, this is not your Samsonite rolling suitcase. This is a bag meant to take on the world and take it with style.

construction and materials

In classic Thrux style, the Freight is built to withstand everything you can throw at it. The thread is 350 and 277 tex waxed cotton thread which was specifically designed for his bags — he chose it because it was some of the most durable thread available, as it will not deteriorate after exposure to sunlight as nylon thread does.

This is some seriously heavy duty thread, as seen on the shoulder strap.

The Freight uses open box stitching techniques coupled with #9 solid brass rivets to attach the handle and the shoulder strap. The open box stitching is an important facet in the design, as it improves the longevity of the bag ten fold. Open box basically means that the stitching attaching the leather to the canvas is an open square; when bags have a closed square, it creates what is basically a perforated line in the leather at the highest stress point, which heavily increases the likelihood of the strap failing. The open box stitching combined with the rivets will allow the Freight withstand a lifetime of heavy use without any signs of tearing.

Open box stitching coupled with a hinged handle and #9 rivets. This is beyond solid.

The zippers are enormous #10 YKK zippers with beautiful leather pull tabs. YKK zippers are all metal and seriously tough. The leather is 9oz Horween Latigo, which is renowned for its durability and strength. The canvas is 24oz anti-mildew canvas — quite literally the heaviest canvas you can get. For the record, it is even heavier than the stuff that Filson uses. This canvas is beyond hefty. It is impervious to water, making this bag a great travelling companion. The clasps which attach the shoulder strap are literally durable beyond words. They are locking brass clasps that look like they can take a bunch of abuse without any problems — plus, they will not release if they are torqued a certain way, making the bag much more secure.

aesthetic

The Freight actually looks like a freight train engine. Something about the way it is shaped — with the rounded sides and flat bottom. It is in classic Thrux style: beauty through durable simplicity. The Bark on Gravel color perfectly compliments this simplistic style. The Freight, as with all Thrux bags, features a specially designed pocket for a vintage photograph, which Tanden specifically chooses for each bag. I love this — it adds a real personality, a life to the bag.

function

The Freight features a pen and pencils pocket and a larger pocket within the main compartment, as well as a laptop/document sleeve and a smaller zippered pocket for your essentials on the outside. The main compartment is copiously large — big enough for a month long trip, if you pack right.

The function of this bag is exceptional. Very simple — clothes in the bag, important smaller stuff on the outside. I like the simplicity, as it takes away the complicated nature of packing associated with a billion different pockets and compartments to choose from.

Considering the shoulder strap is basically 18oz leather (two 9oz pieces stitched together), it can be slightly uncomfortable for extended periods of use, especially when you are running through airports. I have no problems with this discomfort, however, as it indicates the incredible durability of the shoulder strap. Discomfort indicates quality in this market.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a handsome, beautifully simple, tough-as-nails duffel, look no further than the Freight from Thrux Lawrence. It will set you back $570, but you are paying for American-handmade quality the way it should be. The Freight will last you a lifetime of adventure across all corners of the globe.

Handmade in America by a guy named Zach.

June 5, 2014December 19, 2017

Horween Leather Company – The Essex Line of Leather

The Horween Leather Company was established in 1905 in Chicago, Illinois by Master Tanner and founder Isadore Horween. At the time, there were thousands of tanneries in the United States and at its peak, dozens in Chicago. Isadore Horween felt that he could produce a better tanned hide based on his tanning experience, and soon the Horween name was known for its high quality leather. Today, Horween is the only tannery in the Chicago area, and one of just a handful of commercial tanneries in the United States.

The tradition of excellence that Isadore established is still very palpable today for Horween’s current owners and management. The commitment to quality craftsmanship and superior leather is still very much alive. BestLeather has had the fortune of working with Horween on a number of past articles and we are fortunate to work with Horween on a series of upcoming articles. Horween agreed to send to us three of their top selling leather hides for us to post articles on. We were sent one hide each of their Essex, Chromexcel, and Latigo leathers. These leathers are all somewhat different in application, appearance, and feel, but one common thread is that they are all beautiful leathers that are in high demand. In fact, many of the goods we review at BestLeather are made with these and other types of leather from Horween.

For this article, we will take a look at the Essex leather that Horween sells. The creation of Horween’s Essex leather was the brainchild of wanting to tan cowhide in the same manner as tanning Genuine Shell Cordovan (Cordovan being horsehide). When Horween constructed this idea, they knew that the result would be extraordinary. Extraordinary results normally take extraordinary work to accomplish, and this was the case for Essex. It took Horween two to three years of trials and production runs, and according to their own works, they eventually “nailed it”. Nailed it, they have.

TANNING

Like Genuine Shell Cordovan, Essex is straight 100% vegetable tanned. It similarly uses the same blend of liquors and extracts as the Cordovan. The result is a leather that is smooth to the touch, that feels durable and strong, yet is supple enough for the most sophisticated bags and leather goods. The leather is also full grain, which means that it has not been altered in a way that weakens it’s fibers or structure. It is the outermost leather of the hide, which is the strongest and most durable. Another characteristic of Essex is its high oil content. In making their Essex leather, Horween puts the hide through a fat liquoring process that enriches the leather with high quality oils, which, in turn, help give the leather not only long life, but the ability to age well, and look better and better over time. The leather is also hand glazed and then given an aniline finish.

ONE WORD – SUPPLE

For this project, we decided to make a simple messenger bag from the hide that Horween sent to us. As amateur leather crafters, we knew that what we would make would not be to the high standards of goods we normally review, but we wanted to get a feel for the Essex leather and learn about it from the experience of working with it. What we learned is that the leather is very supple, is gorgeous, and is easy to work with. The hide we were sent weighs four to five ounces. For some vegetable tanned leathers, that thickness would result in a leather that is fairly stiff and not very flexible. The Essex, on the other hand, is very supple, even at that weight. The process for creating the Essex leather is the reason for this result, with the oils and liquors used and the process for finishing each hide.

If you desire stiffness in a thinner leather, the Essex would not be the best choice. If you desire a leather that is a little thicker, but still very malleable and fine, then Essex is an excellent choice. The messenger bag that we made for an example turned out beautifully, but in hindsight, we probably would have made a bag that does not require as much rigidity. The design of this bag was fairly deep and needed to have some rigidity to hold up appropriately. The leather is supple enough that when you lay the bag on its bottom, it sags a bit. We decided to put the handle on the very top of the flap, and when lifting the bag up, the flap sagged as well and the result was that the bag did not hold up very well with that type of handle. It would have been better to put handles on the back of the bag. Since the rivet holes were already punched, we ended up adding a thick piece of leather on the underside of the flap, then lined the underside of the flap with pigskin. As a result, lifting the bag with the handle is now very secure.

LESSON LEARNED

The lesson learned is that Horween’s Essex leather is very supple, and the product design needs to take that into consideration. This particular messenger bag could be made with Essex with excellent result, but in a thicker weight, probably eight or nine ounces, as opposed to the four to five. We also could have lined the whole bag with a stiff pigskin lining, and that would have given it sufficient structure. Better yet would have been to choose a design that marries well with supple leather and that accentuates it. One company that does this well is Libero Ferrero. They use the Essex Leather from Horween and the bags they craft are beautiful and designed extremely well. We will be doing a follow-up article on the Essex leather and looking at one of Libero Ferrero’s bags in greater detail.

As discussed, Horween’s Essex leather is very supple, but that does not mean that it is not durable. To the contrary, this leather is made to last for generations. Vegetable tanned leather by nature is made more beautiful over time as it ages and patinas. It stands up better to the elements than straight chrome tanned leather, and the thickness of this leather will stand up to years of use.

COLOR AND FINISH

The Essex hide sent to us is what Horween calls their Dark Cognac color. I tend to love slightly darker brown colors on leather and it was not a surprise that I loved this color. It is a dark brown and in the right light has a small hint of red. The Essex has a high oil content which yields a finish that has a little bit of sheen to it, but not too much. The underside of the hide is a light brown color, but it is also finished beautifully, so we felt it not necessary initially to line the messenger bag. Another thing you get with Horween leathers are hides where the color is struck through. This is not very common with most tanneries because it takes longer in the large drum dyers and requires more dye to accomplish, which makes it more expensive. The result though is that the center of the hide is not blue or a really light tan. It is the same color as the entire hide, through and through.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Horween Leather Company produces some of the finest leathers in the world, that are renowned for their quality, beauty, and durability. Their Essex line of leather is a very beautiful, supple leather that has a wide range of uses. Whether you are making wallets, duffel bags, purses, handbags, or any other consumer good made from Essex or buying said goods, Horween’s Essex is a fantastic choice.

Below is a sequence of pictures from the hide we received from Horween to completion of a simple messenger bag.

June 3, 2014May 9, 2020

Ended – A Simple Leather Belt Giveaway – Two $60 Belts – Ends June 15th, 12PM PST

A Simple Leather Belt Co., which shall henceforth be known as ASLB, has undertaken the noble task of supplying America with tough belts custom sized to our various burgeoning waistlines. To say that these belts will do a good job holding up your britches is an understatement. I think I could tow my car with one of these (not a wise thing to do!). Now you can get one for free with this giveaway.

Pssst…. I know you are wondering where to enter the giveaway… Keep scrolling… Continue reading “Ended – A Simple Leather Belt Giveaway – Two $60 Belts – Ends June 15th, 12PM PST”

June 2, 2014December 19, 2017

Ewing Survivor Clip key management Review – $65.00

A key clip might not be the most exciting thing on your wish list. But, it is an essential item and Ewing Dry Goods has come up with a couple ways to handle your key management concerns. The Survivor Clip is a great tool, and we will also take a quick look at their Laced Key Clip. All materials are Made in USA and the product is manufactured in Juneau, Alaska. Continue reading “Ewing Survivor Clip key management Review – $65.00”

June 2, 2014December 19, 2017

Backcast Outfitters Easy Wallet Review – $15.00

There are times when you want to go out but do not want to carry your wallet or purse with you. The Backcast Outfitters Easy Wallet is designed to hold three credit cards. So, if you want to grab your license, a couple of cards and some cash so you can travel light, this is the wallet for your night out. Continue reading “Backcast Outfitters Easy Wallet Review – $15.00”

June 2, 2014December 19, 2017

Intrepid Bag Co. Journeyman Messenger Review – $369

It seems that today’s traveling is all about minimalism and finding a shoulder bag to not only take as a carry-on at the airport, but also a bag that you can walk with for a period of time that is not too heavy, cumbersome, or restricting. The design of the Journeyman from Intrepid Bag Co. is purposely designed with the traveler, adventurer and minimalist in mind with its lighter-weight construction, fit, and function while maintaining a sleek and stylish appearance.

CONSTRUCTION

A two-year-old company based out of San Francisco, Intrepid Bag Co. sells just 2 leather travel bags–one for him and one for her with underlining themes of travel, comfort, minimalism and quality.

The Journeyman features a rich dark brown, full grain latigo saddle leather that is very soft and flexible and requires virtually no break-in period. The stitching is a marine-grade nylon thread. A herringbone fabric lines the inside of the bag, pockets, and shoulder strap. On the inside, the main compartment of the bag features a sewn-in 13-inch padded laptop sleeve with a leather pocket for an iPad or other accessory on the front. Behind the laptop pocket, there is another slightly concealed pocket for items such as a passport or cellphone.

A leather/herringbone divider features a large pocket with a leather flap and closure, another cellphone sized pocket and three pen slots. There are also two exterior pockets on both the front and the backside of the bag. Being a messenger style bag, the bag’s lid is secured with two buckle closures made from a lightweight steel. The shoulder strap is 2 inches wide and is reinforced with two steel rivets on each end. It can be adjusted for length with a free floating pad to tuck away the excess strap tail.

FUNCTION

The dimensions of this bag are 15″ x 10″ x 3,” making it a smaller bag. In the world of the minimalist, this may be a good thing. Smaller bags force you to pack light and take along the very basics. That being said, the bag can hold an 11-inch or 13-inch MacBook Air no problem. A larger laptop may not fit in the designated laptop sleeve, not to mention with the power adapter and other electronic accessories. With a laptop and a power cord, there really is not much room left in the bag. A few additional books or magazines, a pair of sunglasses, a point and shoot digital camera and a passport wallet maxes out the space without the bag looking overstuffed and awkward when carried.

The shoulder strap features a cross body design that holds the bag flat and firmly against one’s back as opposed to the side. The bag also has a handle which is more tucked away in the back rather than directly on top of the bag.

AESTHETIC

The leather on this bag is rich and will most likely take on a lot of character with wear. A few scratches on mine already look great. With a name like Journeyman, a piece that acquires scratch marks and a patina contributes to the bag’s journeys and stories.

As mentioned previously, this is a small bag. While a thin laptop, a charger, and a few accessories can fit in the bag, there is not much room for more. This may not be a great bag for briefcase items such as larger notebooks, folders, or books. One may see this more as just a laptop bag with other every day carry items.

Empty, the bag weighs about 2 pounds. With a 11-inch MacBook Air, charger, point and shoot camera, 2 small notebooks and a couple small accessories, it weighed about 9 pounds for me. Anything more, I feel, would make the back bulky and heavy–thus defeating the purpose of the minimalist design.

I am 6’1″ and am about 180 pounds (on a good day), and the bag fits my frame well while only looking a tad small. I have been using it almost every day for a week and I appreciate the size.

Having always worn a messenger bag hanging to my side, the design of the shoulder strap was awkward at first since it only allows you to have it sit snuggly against your back. After wearing it a few times, I got used to it and it doesn’t feel like a burden when walking or riding a bike. This is what this bag was meant for (hence the name). Although it would be nice to have a different option with the shoulder strap (or even the option of removing it), it suites the theme and design of the bag quite well.

Although the hardware on the bag is lightweight, it appears to be of lower quality than most other leather bags on the market. I appreciate the lighter weight buckles, but I worry that they might not hold up getting banged around with travel and regular wear.

Another feature I thought was awkward was the handle. The handle is behind the bag rather than on top and seems a tad flimsy. After using it for a few days, I again realized that the handle being tucked back and hidden contributed to the minimalist design. Having a bulkier handle directly on top would definitely stick out like a sore thumb. Since one cannot carry a lot of heavy things in this small bag, I do not forsee any issues of the handle coming unstitched or ripping from the weight of the bag.

Lastly, the herringbone fabric lining the leather is a nice touch and pads the contents of the bag very well. Again, not being leather, I suspect it will wear thin and require extra attention to clean for it to stay in good shape.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Journeyman Messenger from Intrepid Bag Co. speaks to its name. It is a smaller minimalist bag that is very comfortable to wear while walking long distances or even biking. The bag comes with a 10 year warranty which also makes me wary of the quality, but after using it for a week, the bag seems pretty durable and reliable. The price is what you would expect from a domestic made product with full grain leather and herringbone fabric. Being a new company, I am curious to see what other consumers think of the Journeyman and what other products lie in store for Intrepid Bag Co.

Check it out here.

May 26, 2014December 19, 2017

Born and Bred England Biker Wallet Review – $152

Born and Bred England is a maker of premium leather goods for both men and women. Based out of Brighton, England (about an hour south of London), the company produces goods with four simple principles in mind: style, practicality, simplicity, and durability. The company was founded in 2009 by Paul De Nagy, a Brazilian native, who is a self-taught leather craftsman. All of their goods are handmade–never by machine. The company was formed after Paul was asked by a number of his biker friends to make a wallet worthy of their travels and what he came up with was the Biker Wallet, which we will look at for this review.

PACKAGING

In the classic movie Forrest Gump, Forrest quotes his mother, saying, “There is a lot you can tell about a man by looking at his shoes … where he’s goin, where he’s been”. Similarly, you can tell a lot about a company by how they package and prepare their products to be seen for the first time. Born and Bred is one of those special companies that take the packaging of their products seriously.

When I first opened the box with the Biker Wallet inside, I was greeted by black packaging paper, neatly folded and pressed over the wallet. Upon taking off the packaging paper, I found the wallet wrapped inside a tan cloth bag, with Born and Bred’s logo imprinted on it. After pulling the wallet out, I also found a small black envelope with the standard Born and Bred guarantee card. It is a card that indicates what type of product you purchased (Style), when it was made (Born), and who it was made by (Bred).

The wallet sent to us was born on March 14th, 2014 and was made by Paul himself. It also contains an ID number specific to each product, as well as the company’s contact information and guarantee policy, which is a lifetime guarantee. This all made for an experience that was unique and pleasurable. It is an indication of a company that takes great pride in what it sells and, in my opinion, is an indication of a high quality item.

THE LEATHER

The Born and Bred Biker Wallet is indeed a high-quality item made of durable vegetable tanned leather that is four ounces thick. Vegetable tanned leather is known for its durability. The tanning process for veg tanned leather takes significantly longer than the most popular tanning method (chrome tanning), and results in a product that is arguably superior. A benefit of veg tanned leather is that it patinas well over time, meaning that the color can change slightly and often darkens a bit, which gives the leather a beautiful, worn appearance. Chrome leather does not patina; it wears.

Veg tanned leather can also be burnished, which Born and Bred did to all of the edges of the Biker wallet. Burnishing is the process of waxing the unfinished edges of leather, and then applying the leather to hardwood spinning at a very high RPM. The exposed edges tighten and become hard. It is process that takes time and effort and that many companies do not employ, but results in a more finished and refined product.

The color of the wallet is a light brown, what Born and Bred calls whiskey. The wallet also comes in black, but I have to say that I love the whiskey color. The color of the leather is also struck through, meaning that the leather has been drum dyed until the desired color saturates the leather all of the way through to the middle. It is a more time consuming process that is therefore more expensive, and again results in a superior product. As is common for vegetable tanned leather, the wallet is fairly stiff when brand new. That is to be expected and appreciated, as you will have the opportunity to soften and work the leather through continued use, like a brand new baseball glove.

STYLE

The Biker Wallet is a classic bi-fold, where you open and have a large pocket for storing your cash, receipts, or other paper. The wallet also has a coin pocket, with a snap, that is generous enough to hold a fair amount of coinage. On the other flap are two pockets for credit cards. I was able to slide a couple cards into each slot, which, as the leather stretches a bit over time, will probably hold two more if desired.

The Biker Wallet is not a minimalist wallet. It is made for hauling plenty of cash, cards and coins. It is meant for traveling on the open roads, and carrying everything you need for a trip. The only drawback to that function is that the wallet is thick. When folded over and pressed down, it is just over 1.5 inches thick. It is seven layers of beautiful veg tanned leather.

When I first pulled the wallet out of it’s packaging, I was reminded of a scene from the first Crocodile Dundee movie. A hooligan approached Dundee and his girlfriend and asked for his wallet, after pulling out a small switchblade knife. Dundee smiles and casually pulls out his huge knife (presumably the same one he has used in hunting crocodiles) and says “That’s not a knife. This is a knife”.

My first impression when I pulled this wallet out was that all of those wallets you see at department stores and retail shops are not real wallets; THIS is a wallet. It is big, but it is beautiful and very well designed. You may not want to sit on it while working on your computer for hours at a time, but if you are traveling, or on your bike, or if your job requires a lot of standing and moving around, this wallet is perfect.

THREAD AND HARDWARE

Similar to the leather used for the Biker Wallet, the thread and hardware Born and Bred uses is also premium. The thread is a waxed nylon thread, which Born and Bred waxes in house. Nylon thread is very tough, and is the type of thread that many premium leather goods makers use. The snap used for the coin pouch is solid brass, as is the small D ring on the outside spine of the wallet, which can be used for securing to a belt loop with a chain or similar tethering method.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Biker Wallet from Born and Bred England is made with premium raw materials and is expertly crafted. The wallet has plenty of style. It is fully practical. It is simple in design and once you pick it up, you immediately know that it is going to be durable. It is an excellent wallet whether you are a biker or not.

May 22, 2014December 19, 2017

Rustic Leather Replica Mailbag Review – $379

I have been using the Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag for quite some time now. I reported on my initial impression some time ago—that the bag is beautiful and practical, and could be improved by slightly widening the top flap (which Rustic Leather intends to do). Today, I offer you my full review.

bottom line

The TL;DR version of this review is simply this: this mailbag is classy, lightweight, and spacious. If the pictures and description already have you drooling and you are on the fence about whether to buy this sumptuous messenger, buy it. It feels even better in your hand than it looks in the pictures. So, if you already want it and you’re reading this like a person who asks for advice (eg. only looking to be affirmed in a predetermined course of action), then go for it. They are made in limited runs, so keep that in mind. This review will still be here when you get back.

the story

Dave, Rustic Leather’s owner and leather craftsman, took great care in developing their Replica US Mail Bag because the project is close to his heart. His uncle Walter was a mail carrier when Dave was a child living in upstate New York, and Walter’s route would bring him by Dave’s family’s house every day. Dave was mesmerized by Walter’s leather mail bag and the fact that it carried letters from around the world. Walter passed away in 2004 (four years before Dave made his first bag), and Dave’s aunt, Fran, bequeathed Walter’s old mail bag to him, which he now keeps in his office. Dave was able to use this authentic US mail bag as a model for Rustic Leather’s rendition. However, taking the dimensions of a bag is one thing, while improving on a classic design and identifying the perfect leather for the task is another. Dave added a center divider, and mounted pockets, pen loops, and a key leash to it. He also added a newspaper pocket along the posterior of the bag. For the leather, he eventually selected a golden, waxy leather from the renowned SB Foot tannery in Red Wing, Minnesota. The result, as you can see, is striking.

the leather

Rustic Leather’s Replica US Mail Bag is made from 100% full-grain 5–6oz. bovine leather. Let’s break that down. “Full-grain” leather comprises the layers of skin closest to the exterior surface of the animal. The fibers there are knit together much tighter and are naturally better aligned, which results in the highest durability of any grade of leather. Additionally, full-grain leather tends to retain some of the appearance of the actual hide itself, including impressions from veins, and sometimes scars or brands, resulting in a ruggedly handsome look and feel. However, that is not all that matters. That this leather is 5–6oz. means it is especially thick. This makes the leather more expensive because the layers just under what can be considered “full grain” cannot be sold separately as “top grain” leather. This particular leather is tanned to a vintage mustard-brown hue and finished to a smooth, waxy texture that does not mark easily. The interior is a matching suede that I find difficult to keep my hands out of.

the tannery

The SB Foot Tanning Company was originally founded by Silas Buck Foot and his partner in 1872. The urgent need for quality shoes had arisen among local farmers, to whom the company began selling moccasin-like footwear made from fur-on deer hide. Demand for their products outstripped their production, due in large part to the difficulty in sourcing quality hides, and so the cobblers forged their own upstream tanning company. During World War I, SB Foot became a popular source of leather for military footwear. Silas Buck Foot I’s unbridled passion for quality was passed down though his descendants and eventually inherited, along with his tannery, by Silas Buck Foot III.

the tanning

SB Foot still “makes it like they used to,” although they’ve also upgraded their processes with the aid of some new techniques, combining proprietary family methods that have been refined over many generations with modern technology. They receive their hides in their”wet blue” state from feedlot cattle raised in Nebraska and Texas. That means the proteins in the skins have been stabilized in a chromium salt curing process. SB Foot grades the hides internally and then shaves them. From there, hides are stained all the way through by soaking them in tree and vegetable oils and tumbling them in wooden drums. Allowing the oils and dyes to penetrate the entire thickness of the leather enhances the longevity of both quality and color. From there, each hide’s life may take a different route at SB Foot, involving various oils, waxes, or finishes to achieve one of several different characteristic sets of properties. Finished hides may then be purchased by craftsmen.

the craftsmen

Apparently, the correlation between being named Dave and being a leather-working artisan is almost as strong as the correlation between being named John or Jon and being a Reformed scholar. Rustic Leather’s own resident Dave originally got into leather work after realizing how discontented he was with the series of nylon and cheaply-made leather bags he had worn out through heavy use in business and adventure in Texas. He applied the industrial design skills he had acquired during 20+ years in the home automation industry to the creation of a one-of-kind messenger bag that could stand up to his purposes. After receiving one too many compliments on his bag, he sought out the mentorship of an accomplished leather craftsman and started Rustic Leather. Rustic Leather only produces heirloom-quality handmade leather goods, backed by their satisfaction guarantee, here in the United States, which means these pieces aren’t constructed using sweatshop labor (the leather is all sourced in the United States as well). If you are unhappy with a piece you purchased from Rustic Leather, you can return it within 14 days for a full refund

the construction

The Rustic Leather Replica US Mail Bag is 15” h x 11” w x 7” d, and the rear compartment snugly fits a 17” MacBook Pro. The bottom corners of the bag are rounded off, and the anterior panel widens toward the bottom where it is sort of pleated as it is sewn into the bottom panel, keeping the opening of the bag tighter and giving the whole piece a nice rounded look. I am able to fit the entire contents of my SBL backpack into it and more—which surprises me. The body comprises four panels total, which come together with additional pieces to form two interior compartments, three small pockets, a zippered anterior pocket, two pen holsters, and a key leash. There is then an adjustable/removable shoulder strap fastened onto it for transport. These pieces are all stitched together using a white, marine-grade, UV-resistant polyester thread. Polyester thread is comparable to nylon thread in terms of tensile strength, but boasts superior water resistance. While nylon stands up to exposure to water, polyester can endure frequent exposure while maintaining much of its tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, and resisting mold and mildew. Polyester is also remarkably resistant to heat (although certainly not a fire retardant—it melts at 483 degrees Fahrenheit). The rivets are composed of a high-copper alloy. Not only is copper beautiful, it is highly corrosion-resistant and “biostatic,” so bacteria will not grow on it. As it tends to be fairly ductile, it is alloyed to achieve hardness. In line with this level of quality, Dave used a trusty YKK zipper to secure the anterior pocket.

the future

I’ve already mentioned widening the top flap to keep precipitation out—an improvement Rustic Leather intends to make—but there are a couple more points.

There is a strap that stretches over the top of the laptop compartment and fastens to a nice little post on the exterior of the bag. The opening in this strap has a hole large enough to fit over the bulbous end of the post, then a slit going upward, then a smaller hole, which cannot fit over the end of the post, but which is wide enough to accommodate the base of the post. It strikes me that this should be inverted to provide a kind of locking mechanism. I can’t figure out why it is the way it is currently.

The posterior of the bag is reinforced with a bag-length ultra thick leather strip that provides structure and enhances the carrying strength of the piece, which is where the handle is riveted. The rivets penetrate several layers of leather and are exposed to the laptop compartment. Why not have the innermost layer of leather cover these to protect the wearer’s laptop from scratches?

the conclusion

This piece is definitely a “buy it for life” item, without hesitation. Even prior to knowing the backstory, I could tell that this bag was something special, from the vintage color and style, to the leather choice, to the craftsmanship. The price makes this mail bag a strong value, especially given the fact that these are made in small batches by a well-trained boutique craftsman. I will check back in after the leather has had some more time to develop a decent patina.

Check Rustic Leather out here.

May 19, 2014December 19, 2017

The Classic Bifold from Orox Leather Review – $110

Orox Leather is a family owned company in Portland, Oregon. They build a full line of cool, interesting leather goods, including a line of leather/canvas lunch bags, bags, totes, and wallets. This is their take on the bifold wallet, the Classic Bifold from Orox.