Should we demand high quality in every product we purchase or is it OK to be content with low quality from time to time and in some circumstances?
The most appropriate answer would be similar to the answer that my psychology professors in college would often give: it depends. If obtaining quality is within reach, even with some sacrifice or patience, it is worth it to forgo a cheap product in lieu of saving up to purchase a higher quality one. The return on investment is simply greater than the higher cost. The amount of enjoyment that you get from it, the durability that you will experience, the cachet that it brings to you, how well it works, are all benefits of that quality.
In conversations with craftsman of high quality goods, we agree that America is going through a small renaissance; a return to its roots. America is tired of junk. We are okay having less, if that less is something of quality. It is better to have a single, high quality belt that you can wear everyday, that improves with age, than five belts that unravel after a year or two. It is simply better to have fewer, high quality goods, than closets full of junk.
As a society, we need to go back to our roots of craftsman designing and building products that endure, and run away from high quantity, high turnover goods. The time has come for us to fully embrace quality, and the hallmarks that represent it.
Cachet, “the state of being respected or admired” is another hallmark of quality. Cachet is intangible, yet produces a physiological effect, that impacts how we view and feel about an object.
Certain goods are produced in a way that make people who have them look or feel better. When I purchased my first high quality leather bag and brought it with me to work, my head was held a little higher, and my chest was puffed out a little more. I felt good having this bag with me. I felt a bit more confident. I felt like it said something about who I was, and the values that I had. This is a very distinct example of something that has quality, it makes you look or feel better, because you know that it is something that was made with high attention to detail, with excellent materials, by skilled craftsman.
The feeling of being proud of certain goods does not always mean that what you have is of high quality though. When I got a Jansport backpack for my freshman year of high school, for example, I similarly thought that I was a little cooler, because it was what a lot of other kids had. This did not mean that it was a high quality product. It was my perception. But like cost, where a high quality product will never be inexpensive, a certain amount of cachet will always be associated with a high quality good. If something has cachet, you will know it. You’ll be stopped and complimented. You’ll be noticed. You might just have a little more swagger in your gait as a result. Chances are, you’ll have something of high quality.
More expensive products are not always the best products, but how expensive an item is, is usually an indicator of quality. Cost is another hallmark of quality. Just because something costs more though, does not mean that that something is better, or does it?
There certainly is a relationship between cost and quality. It is impossible to make something very well, if the materials and the skill of the craftsman are poor. Highly skilled craftsman demand higher wages. The best materials naturally demand higher costs. If you buy a leather wallet for $20, you can pretty much guarantee that it’s not going to last very long and may not even function like it should. I’ve bought my fair share of $20 leather wallets, which inevitably I throw out over time, because they eventually started falling apart. Comparatively, I purchased a well constructed wallet 2 years ago, and the wallet has only seemed to improve with time. The wallet cost me just under $60. At approximately 3 times the cost of more mainstream wallets, this new wallet is comparatively expensive. Considering that this wallet will most likely last my entire life, it is actually comparatively inexpensive.
Does this cost/quality scale continue indefinitely though in a linear line? Is a $600 wallet, ten times better than a $60 wallet. There certainly are diminishing returns after a certain price point. Determining what that price point is, is difficult to do, and of course depends on the product category. With leather goods, there are four price points as they relate to quality: 1. Cheap 2. Decent 3. Great 4. Exceptional.
1. You can buy an inexpensive leather product and it will be cheap. It won’t last long, won’t look good after a little use, and will eventually fall apart.
2. A decent product will last longer, function better, but will be lacking in certain areas. It’s like buying a $20 belt at a department store. This belt will look good for a while and will do a good job, but you’re not going to have this belt longer than a couple years.
3. Great quality is the $100 belt. This belt can last last a lifetime if properly cared for. It is built with the best leather by skilled craftsman. It can improve with age, and you didn’t have to go into debt to acquire it.
4. The exceptional price point also provides for a great quality product, but at a price point so high that few can afford it. This is the $700 Hermes belt. Is the $700 belt that much better than the $100 belt? In some cases, perhaps, but in many cases, no. The vast majority of these products will also last a lifetime, they are made of the best materials and by the best craftsman. They are unique mostly because they cost so much. A deliberate attempt at pricing out the majority, in order to create exclusivity.
Form certainly does follow function. Like a beautifully constructed building, a properly constructed leather bag works as it is intended to work, and the shape it takes enables that function.
A backpack, for example, is intended to carry books and gear, and to carry them comfortably. A quality backpack will therefore be large enough to carry these goods comfortably, to carry a sufficient quantity of gear, and to do so with sufficient comfort. Beyond that though, design boils down to much finer details as well. A quality leather backpack will have fine, even stitching, and the stitching will serve to reinforce and hold together the leather in the best possible way. The thread will be an appropriate thickness, to ensure strong seams and long life. The rivets will be secured in the most appropriate parts of the bag, to virtually eliminate the possibility of the bag coming apart. The leather used in the bag will be the most sensible for it’s purpose.
The design of a quality product will be planned and thought out from the smallest detail, to its most general use. This attention to detail inevitably leads to a more time consuming process in creating the product, which inevitably leads to a more expensive product.
Beauty is another hallmark of quality. Consider when you are shopping for a great pair of leather shoes. What is the first thing you notice in a quality pair of shoes – they look beautiful.
Italian shoes especially have a noticeable sveltness due to the blake sole method. You do not immediately notice the durability, because that takes time to determine, but you do notice how beautiful the items looks. A leather bag that is a piece of junk may look fantastic upon first glance, but upon further inspection (or ownership) it’s true cheapness is discovered.
Can a high quality pair of leather shoes or finely made leather gloves look terrible? I do not think so. Inherent in a quality product is pleasing aesthetics. Have you ever purchased a high quality leather bag and realized that you have a hard time peeling your eyes from it? When I purchased one of my first high quality leather products, an iPad sleeve, I had a hard time not staring at it. It was beautiful. The color of the leather. The perfect stitching. The clean cuts. Perhaps I was a little obsessed, but the point is that an inherent quality of the sleeve was it’s aesthetics. A crappy product may look good, but a quality product never looks poor. Similarly, a quality product not only looks like it’s quality, but functions like it too.
Shell cordovan has always been an amazing leather choice for footwear. Because of its beauty and durability it’s also the ultimate leather for a wallet. When used in a wallet, shell cordovan experiences a natural polishing effect from the rubbing action of being frequently pulled from your pocket. Furthermore, any moisture from your body will actually expedite the patina process. Developing a great looking wallet is as simple as just wearing it – it’s best to not over-think this one!
The process for polishing Shell Cordovan is identical to polishing Chromexcel.
1) Take a fine horsehair brush and brush the wallet for a minute or two to remove dirt and liven up the natural greases and oils within the leather. (Note: this may be all you need to do if the wallet looks great at this point!)
2) Take a very lightly dampened soft cloth and quickly rub down the entire wallet. This will remove more dirt from the wallet. We like to do this step to even out some of the color and help activate the grease and oil in the skin. This step is how we create the base luster in the shell cordovan.
3) Get your fine horsehair brush out again and brush your wallet thoroughly for about 5 minutes. This step is important to bring out the deep luster in the leather.
4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan – at Ashland we use Venetian Cream to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Apply evenly to a cloudy haze.
5) Let the wallet sit for 10 minutes or more.
6) Buff off the polish with a dry cloth.
7) You can give a breath on the wallet to apply a small amount of moisture, give a quick, final brushing and enjoy your freshly polished wallet!
Most of us would define quality similarly to the Webster Dictionary: “How good or bad something is”. At BestLeather.org, we define quality as how well crafted a leather product is.
One way of looking at quality is as a means of comparison from one thing to another. You may look at a product and think that it is a quality product, because it is better than another product you’re aware of. Most would agree that a Subway or Blimpie’s sandwich is better quality than your homemade PB & J. Does that mean that the Subway sandwich is the highest quality sandwich, or just better quality than. If you compared a Croque Monsieur sandwich at Les Deux Magots in France to your local Subway Meatball Marinara, you could then possibly argue that the Subway sandwich is not really a quality sandwich at all, at least compared to the French sarnie.
Considering that we care about leather here at BestLeather.org, lets look at a leather example. Would you consider a leather wallet made by Louis Vuitton in Italy better quality than one made by Tommy Hilfiger in India. The Vuitton costs over $600 and the Hilfiger under $30. Is a wallet by Saddleback Leather, which costs $59 of a higher quality than the Vuitton wallet? How would one determine which is the better quality and which is worth the money? What are the criteria, tangible and intangible, that determines whether something is high quality or not? Is there a price point, at which higher quality produces diminishing returns?
These questions can best be answered in looking at five hallmarks of quality. It is important to first note that quality can be applied to just about every facet of our lives: relationships, food, writing, time, professions, goods, etc. For the purposes of this article, let’s stick to quality as it relates to goods, and more particularly, leather. This list is not exhaustive, but encompasses a broad spectrum of quality.
durability
The hallmark most of us would initially consider in relation to quality goods would be durability – how well a product wears over time. This is the case for good reason; most of us accept that when a product lasts a long time it is of good quality. In most cases, durability is a great indicator of a quality product.
For a good to last a long time, there are certain processes and materials used, to ensure that the product endures over time. A backpack that is made from full grain leather, that has been expertly tanned, dyed all of the way through the grain, is doubtless going to last longer than one that has been stripped down to the weaker leather fibers, tanned in an expedient fashion, and simply painted. The fact that a backpack can last you many years, even many decades, illustrates the pinnacle of the definition of construction quality. One that falls apart after a year or two of periodic, or even heavy use, illustrates a product that was not quality made. When it comes to leather goods, you have to look at three key factors that determine durability.
1. Type of leather used.
Full grain leather is simply the best leather that can be used in the making of most leather goods. Top grain leather, genuine leather, or bonded leather, are all lesser versions of their stronger brother. They lack the grain strength that comes from using the more densely packed fibers of the outer layer of the animal skin, and therefore lose some of the durability. Top grain leather can be an exception in some cases, because it is also the outer layer of the animal skin, but is still shaved down to meet certain applications. When looking for a high quality leather product, look for full grain to ensure you are getting the most durable good possible.
2. Tanning process.
How a hide is tanned, makes all of the difference in the end quality and durability of the leather. You can start with a quality, full grain hide, and if poorly tanned, that leather might as well be vinyl.
There are two major methods of tanning: chrome based tanning and vegetable tanning. There are many other, less common methods of tanning (i.e. brain tanned, alum tanned, aldehyde tanned, etc.), but considering that veg and chrome tanning are the most common, let us focus on those.
Vegetable tanning uses naturally occurring extracts, such as tree bark, to slowly tan a hide. The process takes weeks, and when done properly results in an extremely durable hide used in a variety of leather goods.
Chrome based tanning occurs by tumbling hides with metal chromium. This method was developed in the mid 19th century and resulted in a much quicker process of tanning a hide.
Vegetable tanned leathers are considered by some to be more durable than chrome tanned leathers. The majority of junk leather is chrome tanned, which perhaps explains the negative association, but not all chrome tanning is produces less durable leather. The Horween Company in Chicago produces a fine chrome tanned leather that is used in quality leather goods. These leathers can last as long as vegetable tanned leathers, because of the strict adherence to a quality process.
The important aspect in deciding which tanning process is most appropriate will depend on the end use of the leather, and the quality of the process itself.
3. Construction
Without proper construction, the best leather, tanned with the best process, will eventually break or fall apart. Outside of proper design, the most crucial aspect of construction is the choice of thread used. There are a few varieties of thread used in quality leather goods. Polyester, nylon, and linen are the most common (artificial sinew, dacron, leather cord are other, less common choices) . With these, there are an abundance of options as well – waxed, unwaxed, bonded, unbonded, you get the point. The importance is to choose the thread that is most appropriate for the leather, the product, and the stitching method.
Another component in high quality leather bags is the use of rivets. The use of rivets is a classic example of over engineering. Rivets strengthen a bag beyond what only stitching can do. A properly placed rivet prevents seams from separating and further strengthens the stitching. Well placed rivets and evenly spaced stitching can also be quite beautiful.
For the past few weeks we have been reviewing the canvas and leather Dispatch messenger bag from Thrux Lawrence and are thoroughly impressed with its usability and durability. This bag is bringing serious competition to well established companies such as Filson and Duluth Trading. The Dispatch is the Thrux Lawrence model of a messenger bag. Thrux Lawrence large carry goods are all made with heavy 24 oz canvas and Horween leather.
Previously we have reviewed the Thrux Pack as well as a the Key Post from Thrux Lawrence.
Many thanks to Matt Leitholt for shooting several of these excellent photos.
aesthetic
The rule of thirds is a commonly known rule in photography and design. For some reason, things look good segmented into thirds. No one knows why but if you analyze the dimensions of an Aston Martin or a famous photo it will be designed in thirds. Much of the Dispatch design follows this rule of thirds, loosely, and consequently looks decently sharp.
You can buy the Dispatch in sixteen different color variations between color options in leather and canvas. The colors are muted and tasteful and give a lot of style options. The dark burgundy leather looks more collegiate while the whisky color is more casual.
Tanden, the owner and designer of the Thrux Lawrence brand, has included some interesting visual details as well. For example, on each bag from Thrux there will be an original vintage photo slipped into a side pocket specially included for that picture.
Each bag is marked with it’s generation number and batch number since they are manufactured in limited runs.
functionality
Carrying this bag on a daily basis has been enjoyable because of it’s excellent style and functionality.
The Dispatch measures 13″ tall by 16.5″ wide by 5.5″ deep which lends itself to carrying quite a bit. Plus, the flexible canvas allows more room for goodies.
Here’s a picture of the Dispatch as it went with me to Philadelphia. As you can see I have quite a bit stuffed in. A DSLR with lens, an extra lens, 13” MacBook and charger, Saddleback Leather Moleskin Cover, iPad, paperwork folder, and various sundry items like headphones and pens. It is very full. The weight of the bag was a hefty seventeen pounds.
One of the complaints with the Thrux Pack was a lack of individual storage compartments which basically forced everything into the large main compartment. This is not so with the Dispatch. There are six pockets to separate out your goodies.
A zippered pocket in front sporting a #10 zipper from YKK. Plenty to hold small items such as keys and headphones.
A pocket for your laptop charger. The main compartment which is obviously big enough for a large camera and an extra lens. The document pocket will fit a couple books or quite a stack of paper. Finally, the laptop slot will fit a 15” laptop nicely and even stretch for a 17″ laptop.
While it will fit an enormous load I appreciated that the design looks great when not crammed full. Some bags slump and fold up if not filled to capacity and the Dispatch is not one of them thanks to the rigid double stitched leather base.
The leather handle is perfectly comfortable and is secured with four rivets and copious stitching.
At first I was concerned that the gap between the side and the top flap would allow water into the bag but as soon as the bag is picked up the gap is pinched shut against the top flap by the shoulder strap.
However, I do have one gripe about the shoulder strap. The snaps that hold the shoulder strap on the bag will suddenly disconnect if the strap is twisted when you pick it up due to the orientation of the d-rings pushing against the brass snap gate. Thankfully this only happens when you have a grip on the shoulder strap and only one unclips at a time so you have a chance to catch the bag before it falls on the floor with your expensive things inside. We did mention this flaw to Tanden and he is sourcing new hardware which will remedy this.
Update: 2/18/14
Thrux Lawrence has replaced that hideous hardware with some killer clasps. These are unlike anything I have ever seen and are perposterously expensive, but so be it. They have a locking mechanism and won’t ever repeat the mistake of the first clasp i.e. involuntarily disconnecting when the bag is picked up.
construction
Seventeen pounds is a lot to be carrying on one shoulder while marching through the endless corridors of the Minneapolis airport. Thankfully, one certainly doesn’t have to worry about the bag coming apart. It is built hefty. The base plate that makes up the foundation of each Thrux bag is double stitched and composed of multiple layers of leather. The leather base has a 600 pound pull apart strength, you know, just in case.
The hardware is all brass, #9 solid rivets (these can break weak snips), the leather is a heavy 9-10 oz, and the 350 denier nylon thread was sourced from a top secret facility that restarted production just to supply Thrux Lawrence. The hand hammered rivets that are used pinch the leather all around it instead of letting the rivet hole take all the burden and potentially rip out.
The chrome tanned leather is sourced from the well known Horween tannery which has been around since 1905. As well known and as high quality of leather that Horween produces they are not easy to purchase from. Because of the high demand for their leather it can take a while to be taken care of and I have personally heard from more than five leather companies that say wait times, shipping costs, and attention to detail is often lacking. But, the leather is good. Perhaps the recent surge of popularity in Horween goods will motivate them to improve their service.
the Thrux Lawrence store
Tanden just opened up his first store in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and it is a visual treat. Literal bombshell light fixtures, a 1947 pool table, cafe motorcycles, an attached barbershop, and of course the Thrux Lawrence goods. It is worth a visit if you happen to be passing through Spokane or touring beautiful north Idaho.
BestLeather conclusion
At the $450 price point you have a variety of options in canvas and leather. Filson, Duluth, and Frost River come to mind. However, none of their materials compare with the heavy thread, #10 YKK zipper, lush Horween leather, 24 oz canvas (filson uses 22 oz and MUCH lighter thread). It is no contest if you are looking for a bag to serve you and your generations well.
Moore & Giles uses leather tanned in Italy. On a recent trip to their tannery they made this fantastic video featuring each step of their leather making process. What I found particularly interesting is the modern equipment featured in the film compared to some other renowned tanneries such as Horween that seem like not much has changed for a hundred years.
This is a syndicated post from the blog of Helm Boots discussing how to capitalize on the white waxy coating Chromexcel boots can get.
Chromexcel bloom
So you’ve had your HELM Boots for a little bit. They’ve probably made you happy and maybe you’ve gotten some compliments. Then all of a sudden you go to pull them out of the closet and hey… what’s that white powdery stuff on the leather? It doesn’t appear on all of HELMs leathers but the boots that use Chromexcel from Horween (the Ben – pictured, the Marion Olive, The Sam Navy, The Railroad and The Reid Brown) will probably show it at some point. Chromexcel leather is notoriously fatty and waxy. It’s what makes it so desirable and pliable and durable and lux and long lasting and… The Horween tannery adds a lot of oil and wax to the leather during the tanning process. Sometimes this oil and wax and grease will migrate through the leather and react with air on the surface to crystallize and that’s what causes the Bloom or Spue to appear. It will look like a powdery or chalky substance on the surface of the leather. You can see it in the above pic at the top of the shaft and around the lace eyelets. The amount of wax used in tanning along with exposure to high temps, humidity, air and light all contribute to Bloom.
Bloom can be removed just by a simple brush with the horsehair brush or a rub with a shoe cloth. Our Ben Sample at the HELM Office Bloomed this month and we buffed it to a high shine with our horsehair paddle brush and nothing else. You don’t generally need to add anything to these Chromexcel leathers as they are so nourished already during the production process.
Leather Honey sent us a couple bottles for review. For this review I used a pair of old leather engineer boots from Union Made and a VERY dried out pair of Sperry Boat Shoes. Since I keep my personal leather well conditioned I have begged and borrowed dried out leather goods to test on. Continue reading “Leather Honey Conditioner Review – $20”
The White Wing Label cooler is a cooler for those who care about presentation
Whatever the outdoor adventure, having a mobile stash of cold beer is often essential. However, there is a problem. Many coolers are leaky low quality love affairs with the uncool. This, the cooler from White Wing Label, is not. Continue reading “White Wing Label Canvas Cooler Tote Review – $205”
This is a guest post by Kristin from Los Angeles, California.
I’ve had this bag since August of 2013. I liked it when I first saw it but since then I have grown to love it more and more.
It’s a beautiful coffee brown Marlondo Leather Classic Briefcase. It has a strap that can either make it a one shoulder briefcase or a backpack. That feature is extremely useful because of the weight of the bag. I am a young lady and not terribly weak, but this bag is heavy when you put a computer and a few books in it. I have a huge dell laptop (which adds a lot of weight) and so when I had it during school I couldn’t take it to all my classes like I needed too because I didn’t know about the backpack option and the one shoulder that it was hanging on started hurting really badly. However, I soon learned how to make it a backpack and since then I have had no issues at all.
It has two main pockets, two smaller pockets on the inside, and one pocket on each end outside the bag. The leather is strong and durable. There was a time where I accidentally dropped it with my computer in it but the bag protected my computer and it had no damage whatsoever. It holds and protects its contents quite well.
It’s very professional looking and perfect for my meetings with photography clients.
Like I said before, I used my bag primarily for school. I was using it on a daily basis taking my books and computer to classes and in that way, the bag is tremendous! I also have used it as a camera bag. It protects my gear as well as holds it all with plenty of room.
The bag is extremely durable. It is extremely comforting knowing that I don’t have to worry about it falling apart and breaking. The wear and tear that the leather gets looks awesome and as time goes on the bag simply looks cooler. It has some scratches on the front but they add character to the bag.
I get comments and compliments on the bag everywhere I go. People are very impressed with the quality and appearance of the bag. It’s very classy and professional looking. I feel pretty cool walking around with it.
“Holy Cow”! I think those were the first words I uttered when I opened up the oversized box and pulled out The Beast. I purchased The Beast Duffel bag from Saddleback Leather as a Christmas present to myself. It is a bag meant for hauling serious gear, and can be found in Saddleback Leather’s luggage section.
White Wing Label was founded in 2010 by two brothers out to live a dream. That dream was to create 100% American made textile products. Three years later, that dream is fulfilled in White Wing Label, a company based out of Texas that makes men’s luggage and equipment. Bestleather.org had the opportunity to review a new tote that is being added to their product line.
functionality
This tote from White Wing Labelis a simple, yet timeless bag. It is a good blend of durability and class. The sturdy construction equals a solid bag that should resist wear and tear. The straps have small brass hardware, giving it a nice touch without being too industrial.
construction
The construction is a solid canvas with a fully lined interior and leather straps. It appears like it would be easy to wipe off if something were spilled inside. Empty, it stands up without falling over, which is always a big plus when I am looking into getting any kind of bag.
pockets
There is one interior pocket with a zipper that is almost the width of the bag. It is a very shallow pocket which can be good or bad depending on your needs. It is good in that you won’t have to be fishing to the bottom of a large pocket looking for a small object- it is bad in that it is just barely deep enough for a wallet. There are two pockets on the sides of the exterior, ideal size for a water bottle or glasses case.
Bestleather conclusion
Overall this a nice, sturdy tote that would be well suited for either a man or lady’s weekend travel bag.
This is an opinion guest post by Paul Evans, Co-Founder & CEO at Paul Evans, a fairly new NY based shoe company.
You have most likely heard that American manufacturing is undergoing a renaissance. Many believe that our country’s manufacturing costs are becoming more competitive and that future economic prosperity will be tied to growth in the manufacturing sector. While many industries are well situated to benefit from a rise in American manufacturing, I do not believe footwear is among them.
In the United States there are virtually no footwear manufacturers still in operation. Beyond Alden in the Northeast and Allen Edmonds in the Midwest, shoe manufacturing in the United States is limited to a select number of local boot manufacturers. Believe me, I’ve looked. I spent over a year sourcing factories internationally to find the best possible product at my retail price point. I found that factory in Italy after extensively traveling the country.
Italy is a superior choice for shoe manufacturing because of expertise, tradition and location. There are thousands of factories in Italy that have been in operation for generations, passing along the savoir-faire and passion necessary to create beautiful shoes. The Italian artisans have been around for so long that their experience ensures stylish, quality footwear. They’ve seen thousands of styles throughout the years and know how what works and what doesn’t. Feedback from my factory has ensured I am able to produce a shoe that will endure.
Additionally, factories are clustered in communities that are dedicated to producing shoes. During one of my sourcing trips I was driven around town to meet the many suppliers involved in the production process. The relationships my factory has with its suppliers ensures production will be as seamless as possible, while also keeping production costs low. And of course, the numerous trade shows in Italy contribute to the continued success of the Italian fashion industry as ideas are shared, relationships are forged and new and creative merchandise is sold for international distribution.
Two of the most well known Italian trade shows are Pitti Uomo and Micam. Pitti Uomo is a menswear extravaganza with something for everybody. Held twice a year in Florence, menswear buyers, brands and enthusiasts are able to see new product, order merchandise for their stores and of course create lasting relationships. Micam is held bi-annually as well in Milan and is arguably the most important footwear trade show in the world. Anybody who is anybody in footwear is there. And again relationships are key in this industry. The relationship I have with my factory is without a doubt my brand’s greatest asset. They don’t pick up the phone for just anyone. It takes time and effort to cultivate a lasting bond with these Italian artisans who are so passionate about fashion.
And that’s why my shoes are made in Italy. The skilled artisans, the convenient infrastructure and the presence of a large footwear community make Italy a superior choice for shoe production. Italy is the ideal country for new brands looking to break into the world of fashion.
There are five distinct ways of soling a leather shoe. Each shoe’s sole impacts its comfort, durability, and waterproofing. Here’s a quick breakdown.
Goodyear Construction
Goodyear welted shoes are distinctive for their waterproof soles since the stitch that attaches the sole to the shoe runs along the outside edge instead of piercing through to the inside of the shoe. The sole attaches to the welt (a strip of rubber, leather, or plastic) which then attaches to the upper. The welt forms a cavity which is then filled with cork or similar material. Because the stitch line runs around the outside of the shoe it is relatively easy for a shoe-maker to resole Goodyear welted shoes.
As you may suspect, the name comes from Charles Goodyear who patented the machine capable of sewing around the perimeter, replacing the need for hand-sewn welts. These days, it is rare to see shoes with Goodyear welting because of the time and difficulty, and the fact that it requires skilled labor.
Advantages: Waterproof, and durable. Easily resolable, extending the lifetime of the shoe for many years.
Disadvantages: Cost. Because stitching is done on the outside of the sole, Goodyear welted shoes tend to be bulkier and less sleek.
Blake Construction (a.k.a. The McKay Method)
Lyman Reed Blake invented the machine in 1856 to make this method possible and later sold it to Gordon McKay. It is a simple process of joining the sole directly with the shoe’s upper with a large strong stitch. This makes the sole thinner than the goodyear welted shoes because they do not need an intermediate layer connecting the shoe sole to the shoe upper.
Advantages: Ease of construction, sole flexibility, and sleeker, more fashionable shoes (which the Italians are famous for).
Disadvantages: Less waterproof soles due to the stitching. Sometimes the thinner soles can be less comfortable on cheap shoes, and most seriously, the thin leather soles can wick water from the ground into the shoe (rubber soles negate this).
Many shoes made with Blake construction are of lower quality BUT there are many good makers who utilize this technique and are worth considering. Blake construction is most popular among Italian shoemakers, who dominate the high-end leather shoe market.
Blake-Rapid Construction
Blake-Rapid is a synthesis of Goodyear and Blake methods, where the stitching technique of Blake is combined with the extra midsole of the Goodyear. Many manufacturers that utilize the Blake method will also use Blake-Rapid. Blake-Rapid shoes tend to be bulkier because of the midsole introduction and thus is typically used on more rugged shoes.
Advantages: Waterproof and more durable than the Blake method.
Disadvantages: Soles are less flexible and added bulk makes soles further from the upper.
Norwegian (AKA Norvegese)
The Norwegian method is an uncommon demonstration of shoemaking virtue. It was originally designed to make shoes more waterproof but has faded from common usage due to its difficulty.
The unique feature of the Norwegian method is the shoe upper is stitched to both the outer sole via the Goodyear method and by the insole. This effectively closes off the channel that water would otherwise use and makes the shoe quite waterproof compared to other methods.
Beware of Blake constructed shoes that knock off the Norwegian method by applying stitching around the base of the upper that does not connect it to the insole. Some manufacturers charge much more for this worthless feature.
The Bologna style is suitable for shoes with flexible soles such as slippers or moccasins because of their simple design. The leather upper is wrapped around the bottom and sewn up. Then the sole is sewn directly to the upper. So, no sole touching your feet. Just soft leather all the way around your foot.
The stitch is very similar-looking to Blake, except the stitching is closer to the edge on the inside of the shoe so you don’t feel it.
Advantages: Very comfortable and easy to make. Suitable for moccasins and slippers.
Disadvantages: Not waterproof or very durable compared to other methods.
Adhesive
Cheap soles are glued to cheap leather uppers by cavemen.
Advantages: It’s cheap.
Disadvantages: Not durable and falls apart quickly. This method was officially banned by the United Nations in 1957 in the Resolution To End Crap Shoes (hehe). It is punishable by mocking.
Editors Note: This is an out of date review. The latest Marlondo Leather Backpack compares quite favorably against the SBL backpack.
Prolegomena: a discursive introduction
I impressed it upon TJ that I retain the full copyright for this piece and TJ is permitted to use it so long as he publishes it in full. He is a good friend to me, and an excellent human being, in my judgment–and he let me borrow the backpack for the review. I insist on full disclosure, and not all of what I am about to say is positive. I would rather write something and have it never see the light of day than to have it shred to pieces by an editor as if it were the American constitution and he were an American president in the late 20th or early 21st century.
Disclosure: Conflict of Interest and/or Bias
I own an older Saddleback Leather Backpack in chestnut. I am the guy in this review. The data reflects a strong correlation between owning the Tank and liking it. Therefore, due to my background, my interest in reviewing the Marlondo Backpack as objectively as possible conflicts with my unavoidable confirmation bias.
And, in the spirit of full disclosure, at the risk of adding unnecessary details, I should also tell you that I own an SBL chestnut iPad case and a chestnut portfolio. I’m sure I’ll be smeared as an overly loyal SBL fanboy by that one obnoxious dude in the Facebook forum. I forget his name. But at least now you can’t accuse me of hiding it. So go pound sand, obnoxious guy whose name I can’t remember and prefer not to look up (for obvious reasons).
“There are no solutions, only tradeoffs.” -Thomas Sowell
the SBL Backpackthe badass sporting said backpack
Silver Lining?
The good news is that I am in a good position to evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of the Marlondo piece in light of extensive use of a rival bag. And in fact, rather than attempting an uninterested, context-insensitive review of the Marlondo bag, I think I’ll take the liberty to review this backpack as it relates to my specific use cases. For those who can’t relate, tough. There will be someone out there who finds that this review provides the exact insight he or she needs, right when he or she is at the decision- making stage of the sales funnel. And you, my good sir or madam, are welcome.
Should you buy this bag?
It is my assessment that this leather backpack represents a remarkable value given its retail price. Whether it is the most beneficial leather backpack option for you, given what it costs you personally, is contingent on data and subjective qualitative states that I neither have access to, nor any interest in attempting to evaluate.
What could you use this bag for?
This bag is good for going to the gym, going to the beach, traveling (casual affairs only; and it should be ok as a carry-on), toting your study materials and gym clothes around campus, and day hikes. In terms of utility, it is 1. lighter, 2. more flexible, and 3. has a greater capacity than the classic SBL backpack (I understand Best Leather has a forthcoming review of the newer SBL Square Backpack, so stay tuned for a comparison there).
Leather is good.
Let’s get one thing on the table. Leather is beautiful. It smells good. It is durable. When I saw this piece, it was a delight. The point is that this is a good bag and it is made of leather. It is 1. beautiful, 2. fragrant, and 3. durable. I would rather own it than not own it. It bears some finite, nonzero quantity of value.
What’s more is that the Marlondo backpack is unique. The Saddleback backpack is unique too, but that’s a red herring. So given that 1. leather is good and 2. the Marlondo leather backpack is unique; therefore the Marlondo leather backpack gives off an eerily deceptive allure.
I will proceed to rip this thing to shreds and say that the SBL backpack is far superior (it is), but there is a part of me that already misses this bag. There are aspects of it that are uniquely attractive, even if, net of everything, I still prefer my current bag. It is a strange disposition to articulate, but there it is.
Misc. Initial Observations
• I do like the appearance of this bag. I like the overall visual impression it gives, and I really like the profile of the bag when worn. My model of SBL backpack has a well-known tendency to dig into the lower back and lean away from the shoulders of the wearer. The leather on this thing has a remarkable matte texture. The leather on my SBL BP is further toward the shinier end of the spectrum.
• The hardware on this thing is not shiny at all. I strongly prefer the shiny nickel-plated brass on the SBL goods.
• The pigskin liner is significantly different than the SBL material. Thinner and more flexible. The interior of my SBL bag feels like a smooth football. I hardly noticed that this bag had a distinct liner.
Complaints After Use
1. Lack of External Hardware.
2. Lack of Convenient Exterior Pockets.
3. Lack of Interior Pockets.
4. Flexibility
5. Narrow Closure Piece
6. Short Distance Between Closure Loop and Closure Hardware
7. Skimpy Top Flap
8. Rucksack Drawstring Thingy
9. Seams Not Double-Stitched
10. Lack of Detail
11. Lack of Hardware
1. Hardware adds weight and utility.
I like to do things like hang my sunglasses and my keys from the d-rings on my SBL backpack. This Marlondo piece has none such. It’s lighter for it, but if there is a use case for the d-rings and the trade off is worth it to you, take heed.
2. Lack of Convenient Exterior Pockets.
I keep a microfiber cloth on the keyboard of my MacBook when the clamshell is closed to keep the screen clean. When I first sit down and open it up, I swipe the cloth from the keyboard and stuff it into one of the exterior pockets. I was thrown off when I went to do this with the Marlondo bag and discovered that it didn’t have any always-open exterior pockets. After this I started realizing how much I take those pockets for granted. Buyer beware.
3. Lack of Interior Pockets.
When I first got my SBL backpack those two interior pockets got in the way. They are a bit rigid, especially when they’re new, and if you already have half of the bag full, vertically, the interior pockets make it difficult to fill the space beneath them. This is a problem for me because I utilize all the space in the bag. That said, I started relying on them to carry my Magic Mouse, USB cable, external hard drive, etc. It’s nice to have them at the top of the bag, and it’s nice to have them in leather pockets that prevent them from banging around and scratching each other. The bag has become slightly more flexible with use and I’ve molded my packing workflow around them. The Marlondo bag has none such pockets, and it changes the way I have to pack the bag. I actually had to introduce smaller pouches just to carry these pieces, and I never got comfortable with it.
Oh! I also used the flat pockets on the sides of the interior of the SBL backpack for business cards and writing utensils. I have no good place for that stuff in the Marlondo bag.
4. Flexibility (AKA lack of protection from rigidity)
The pigskin on the classic SBL backpack is fairly rigid and the general construction of the bag results in a fairly sturdy structure. One time I had an older MacBook in a Jansport and, upon entering my Toyota Corolla, I lost my grip on the bag and it slid down a couple of feet and met the road. It did $900 worth of damage.
Flash forward a few years and I have my current machine in my SBL backpack on top of a stack of luggage in the back of a shuttle in Las Vegas. The driver opens the rear door and my backpack rolls off, drops about five feet, hits the road, and rolls another five or so. “Whoops,” he says, and smiles. I was furious, but I kept my cool. Anyway, the bag and it’s the thousands of dollars worth of contents, were all entirely unscathed. As if it never happened.
I can tell that if I dropped the Marlondo bag on the street it would damage my laptop. I feel like I need a case for my computer while it’s inside the bag, which 1. eats into the available space, 2. adds weight, and 3. adds expense to the setup. It also gives me one more thing to handle when I need to retrieve my laptop and setup for work.
But again, it’s a tradeoff. The flexibility of the bag may be an advantage for certain use cases.
5. Narrow Closure Piece
This strip of leather is slightly wider than the ring through which it must pass. This makes inserting it and extracting it more difficult than necessary.
6. Short Distance Between Closure Loop and Closure Hardware
The short distance between the closure loop and the closure hardware makes it difficult to insert ones fingers in order to pull the closure piece out when opening the bag. This does not reflect usability testing.
What other issues might this bag have due to lacking usability testing that I haven’t yet discovered?
And, actually, the closure loop is surprisingly thin. Given than I carry very expensive cargo, which I use to earn my living, I can’t tolerate this kind of thing.
7. Skimpy Top Flap
For the generous capacity of this bag, its cover flap sure is skimpy. I live in the Pacific Northwest, where encountering rain and snow on the three-to-four block walk to my car from the café where I work is not uncommon. I need my goods to stay dry in my bag.
This flap makes me nervous.
8. Rucksack Drawstring Thingy
Not impressed. It feels cheap, it’s inflexible, and it’s insecure. It bothers me that, given the large mouth of this beast, it is drawn together with this sorry excuse for a closure and immodestly covered to boot.
9. Seams Not Double-Stitched
The double-stitching on the SBL bags looks strikingly handsome. 20% of the people who come within 20’ of my SBL backpack approach me with compliments.
The batting average of the Marlondo backpack fell somewhere between a Jansport and the SBL.
10. Lack of Detail
You get what you pay for.
The SBL backpack is meticulously assembled. Compare and contrast:
While we’re taking pictures however, note that the older SBL “overstuffed” straps use leather so thick that it can’t comfortably conform to one’s shoulder. In order to bend, it creates bumps that are fairly hard and uncomfortable. This is unfortunate. They may wear with time (20-100years?) and there may be workarounds, but still.
Also, the seam that rubs along your lower back can be extremely uncomfortable after a while.
Over-engineering comes at a cost. All of the touches SBL wanted to put on their straps added up. There is some added functionality/aesthetic value due to some of these little touches, but the end result is a lot of added thickness and weight and price.
The Marlondo straps lack the detail, but aren’t plagued by the thickness and weight. They were fairly comfortable. Also, significantly cheaper.
Thrux Lawrence is a relatively new men’s dry goods company that focuses on leather and canvas materials. They are local to Coeur d’Alene, my hometown, so I have been able to see their growth over time and enjoy the single-minded focus on quality. Tanden Launder, the founder, is a good friend of mine and invited me to the grand opening of his new location.
