Blog - Page 40 of 67 - BestLeather.org

March 22, 2016December 19, 2017

Deceptively Simple Minimal Thin Leather Wallets – $45 & $50

Living a simple life is a hard thing to accomplish these days. Our world is always running at a million miles an hour, and all we can do is try and keep up. I like to slow down and simplify my life as often as I can. Whether that is taking the long way home on my motorcycle and kicking my phone to the curb (not literally, of course!), or slimming down my ever-growing personal property, it is a goal I strive for often these days. I have found that carrying the bare necessities with me at all times helps me fulfill my simpler lifestyle, and the Deceptively Simple Minimal Wallet has been a great product to get the job done.

About

Deceptively Simple, an Etsy store based in Los Angeles, California, lives up to its name in every way. With only one wallet (in two sizes) in its product line, this one-man operation strives to do things simply and efficiently. Each wallet is handmade in Los Angeles, California.

“I’m an architectural designer in Los Angeles who also enjoys designing products. My goal is to create items with clean lines, orthogonal shapes and simplicity. As I’ve learned through years of architectural work, simple things are always harder to achieve. I’m always trying new designs and will be adding more pieces soon.”

CONSTRUCTION & FUNCTION

The wallets are hand-stitched using vegetable-tanned harness leather in a natural color. This leather is very sturdy and stiff, so it requires a bit of time to soften and gain a patina. As always, natural veg-tanned leather picks up a nice patina around the edges. The edges are already quite dark from the laser-cutting, but with use, the wallet becomes more uniform color.

Both wallets are 100mm x75mm or 3 7/8″ X 2 7/8″, just slightly larger than a credit card. The wallet comes in two sizes: thin and thick. The thin wallet is 5mm (3/16″) and the thick wallet is 7.5mm (9/32″). The thin wallet holds three credit cards without bowing, and the thick wallet holds about five cards without bowing. Both wallets could feasibly fit double the amount, but the wallet would look distorted and the leather would need some extra time to form around the cards.

Many super-thin wallets make it hard to slide the cards in and out, especially at first, when the leather is still quite stiff. However, the Deceptively Simple wallets have small laser-cut windows on both sides that help you grip the cards with your thumbs, making them easy to access.

After several months of use, the wallets have held up very well and gained a very nice patina. The stitching is still perfect and the leather has molded to the cards and holds them snugly. I have been able to comfortably hold 7 or 8 cards in the thicker wallet without any issue.

Here is the thick wallet after about three months of use. It’s softened considerably and is developing a nice patina.

AESTHETIC

The Deceptively Simple Wallets are pretty unique in appearance. With dark, squared edges and contrasting stitching, these wallets stand out without looking the least bit gaudy. The thick laser edges may not be for everyone, but I’m personally a fan of the way the blocky edges look, and they’ve held up well after months of wear.

The company’s logo is placed near the bottom corner, two dots in a thin rectangle. This adds even more geometric interest to the wallet. The clean lines, natural colors, and functional shape make for a solid wallet from this small operation.

CONCLUSION

The word minimalist is thrown around pretty loosely these days, but these wallets truly earn the term. If you often carry more than five cards, or like a more traditional looking wallet, this may not be for you. But if you like to carry just a few cards, even on occasion, these wallets function perfectly. They also function well as sleek business card holders that are sure to impress. So set aside that giant clunker of a wallet you have and opt for something simpler. The Deceptively Simple Minimalist Wallet is a well-priced option as a leather wallet.

UPDATE: Viro is now taking orders for the wallet to be crafted in Horween’s CHROMEXCEL for an additional $15. This sounds like a great option and should produce a very, very nice version of this wallet!

March 17, 2016December 19, 2017

First Impressions: Jaunji Designs Uptown Jacket in Lambskin

Jaunji Designs has announced a new line of men’s and women’s jackets made with lamb, goat, or natural grain cow leather via a new Kickstarter campaign, which we reported on a few weeks ago. They quickly met and exceeded their goal, but jackets are still available for preorder. We were able to get our hands on a sample jacket in the Uptown style, a high collared jacket with a classic fit.

The Uptown jacket has snap cuffs, two zip chest pockets, two side pockets, and two interior pockets, one of which is zippered. This jacket is made with lambskin in a light cognac color with a subtle distressed finish. It also features a herringbone lining which is soft to the touch, but durable.

For men, the jackets come in four styles: Moto, Cafe Racer, Bomber, and Uptown, a simple high-collared design. Ladies’ jackets also come in two styles: Uptown, and a moto style with an asymmetrical zip.

The construction of the Uptown jacket is solid. Seams are even and the hardware appears to be well made too. The leather is soft to the touch and has a pleasant aroma to it. Lambskin is not super thick, but still retains great strength and durability.

What’s especially nice about the Jaunji Uptown jacket is the weight. It’s a great option for spring, early fall and those days when the weather just calls for a lighter weight jacket. The lack of bulk is definitely noticeable and appreciated. The cognac color is aesthetically pleasing and along with the style of the jacket lends itself well to business casual attire or simple casual daily wear.

The jackets come lined with standard viscose lining, but can be upgraded to a herringbone wool.The herringbone lining gives the jacket a bit more of an upscale look – this is just our opinion especially since we haven’t seen the standard version in person.

The cool thing about these jackets is that they are custom-fit, to measurements you send in upon purchase. So there’s not a back stock of pre-made jackets, they are made specific to your measurements and leather choice.

Verdict

Overall, our test jacket has been well received in public. People enjoy the feel of the leather and comment positively on the style and color. We can easily see why Jaunji met their original Kickstarter goal in less than 8 hours. There are still spots available on their Kickstarter to get the jacket style of your choice with standard lining and choice of color for $369, which is about $200 off expected retail price. Couples can pledge $669 for two jackets of their choice. This is a good deal for a high quality, custom-fit jacket made to your specifications. We look forward to seeing how things progress for Jaunji with this project and designs that are launched from them in the future.

March 16, 2016June 24, 2020

Election 2016: Who Gets the Next Presidential Johnston & Murphy Shoes?

If you are familiar with footwear brand Johnston & Murphy, you probably know that the brand has been responsible for providing footwear to every president since Millard Fillmore in 1850. Most recently, they provided President Obama with a pair of black oxfords and an updated version of President Lincoln’s lace-up boots.

Now, with election season in full swing, we’re asking the important questions: who gets the next pair of presidential Johnston & Murphy shoes? There’s a chance America may have its first woman president. This video from CNN Money discusses this possibility with J&M’s CEO Jon Caplan, and explains a bit about Johnston & Murphy’s presidential tradition. Check out J&M’s history page to see some more presidential styles throughout history.

March 15, 2016December 19, 2017

Measuring the Thickness of Leather

In our reviews, we often talk about the thickness of leather. The thickness of a piece of leather affects its durability and flexibility, meaning it’s important for the informed consumer to have a general idea of leather thickness is and what types of products each range is used for. There are several ways to measure the thickness of leather, which we will explain below.

The Ounce
We most frequently refer to the thickness of leather in terms of “ounces.” This can be confusing because the term actually refers to a linear measurement as opposed to weight. In the leather industry, an ounce is 1/64 of an inch. So, if you have a piece of leather that is 8 ounces, it’s 8/64 of an inch. An easy reference point is to remember that a U.S. quarter is 4 ounces in thickness.

Hides can be through a splitting machine that can skive a piece of leather down to the desired measurement. But each animal is different and a hide can vary in thickness, so most of the time you’ll see each measurement presented as a range, such as 6-7 oz. The image below, from the Tandy Leather Buying Guide, shows a conversion chart between ounces, irons, inches, and millimeters, as well as a visual representation of the measurement.

The Iron
The Iron is an old, but still occasionally used standard for measuring the thickness of leather. It is most often seen in shoe manufacturing, especially in the UK, although the millimeter is a much more common measurement now. There are 48 irons in an inch, so each iron is a little larger than an ounce.

What are different thicknesses used for?

Shoes
An average leather outsole on a shoe is around 12oz (9 irons) thick. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, and the lining is about 1oz.

Of course, these thicknesses often vary with the type of shoe, type of welt, and type of leather used. Italian dress shoes are usually sleeker and thus use thinner leather in the soles and uppers. Blake stitched or bonded soles don’t require a thick insole like Goodyear welted shoes.

Bags
Bags are generally crafted from medium weight leather, and can be anywhere from 3-7 ounces, depending the desired weight and durability. Many bags are lined with pigskin or another thin layer of leather, which usually measures in at around 2 ounces.

Belts
The standard weight for a sturdy men’s belt is 7-8 ounces.

Wallets and Accessories
Most wallets, notebook covers, and billfolds are made with leather that is 2-4 oz. Heavy accessories like knife sheaths, hard sided cases, and holsters are in the 7-9 oz range.

March 9, 2016December 19, 2017

Paul Evans Caine Bit Loafer Review – $349

We all know that shoes don’t make the man…but they certainly make the man feel more suave, debonair, and stylish that’s for sure! But, when searching for a pair of shoes to wear to the office or those more upscale events, the choices are vast. Classic dress shoes rarely go out of style. So when you’re ready to purchase, do so wisely as a well-informed consumer. We encourage you to read about Leather Shoe Construction and Leather Types Used in Shoe Construction – we hope you’ll find those informative and helpful articles as you begin your decision on which brand and style of dress shoes to purchase. And, speaking of brands, we hold Paul Evans in high regard, so let’s take a look at their Caine Bit Loafer.

ABOUT

Paul Evans is a small operation based in New York City, where the shoes are designed. Each pair of Paul Evans shoes is manufactured in a family-owned factory in Naples, Italy. They’re e-commerce only, meaning there are no middleman markups.

“When we set out on this venture, we knew we wanted quality, but we weren’t interested in creating a pair of thousand dollar shoes. We never understood why beautiful, timeless shoes were still monopolized by the traditional brands while other parts of the fashion world were being disrupted by the powers of technology.”

In January of 2014 we featured a guest post from Paul Evans entitled, “Why My Leather Shoes Are Made in Italy”, which is a great piece on (you guessed it) why Paul Evans’ shoes are made in Italy.

CONSTRUCTION

Each pair of Paul Evans shoes is made of Italian calfskin leather. The upper is made entirely of full grain Italian leather, in a beautiful black with a classy sheen. The soles are also leather, handpainted black to match the uppers. The inside is lined with soft, light brown leather that adds comfort as well a smart contrasting look.

The sole is Blake-stitched, which means the upper is wrapped around the insole and attached between it and the outsole. This gives the shoe a bit more flexibility, as well as a sleeker sole, and the ability to be re-soled in the future. The Caine is expertly constructed, with its subtle curves and perfect stitching.

AESTHETIC

The Caine Bit Loafers have a dressy loafer shape to them, with a bold horsebit crosspiece further embellished with a signature Paul Evans fleur-de-lis. With a high-polish leather, a pronounced heel (about 3/4 inch), and bold hardware, these shoes definitely stand out. The impression from my office mates has been extremely positive with lots of questions about them and positive comments about the color and overall style. They are not as modern of a style as most of Paul Evans’ line, but is still a versatile shoe with broad appeal.

The vamp is of medium depth, so the shoe can be worn with or without socks. The shoe definitely has Italian influences to it with the horsebit hardware and a somewhat elongated and elevated toe. The Caine comes in three colors: black, oxblood, and marronne (a medium brown). The black is of course the dressiest of the three.

FIT

Paul Evans warns that that their shoes run a full size and a half large, and they aren’t kidding. Be sure to order smaller than you’re used to. Paul Evans’ customer service has been very helpful in our experience, so don’t feel worried or afraid to ask questions. Once you’ve determined the correct size, ordered and received them, it’s time to get them on your feet. Holding a quality dress shoe in your hands is great…but walking in them is just awesome and such is the case with the Caine Bit Loafers. They break in quickly and all day comfort isn’t really considered – it just happens. The Cain Bit Loafers are a versatile style that can be worn in colder weather and then easily worn sock-less on warmer spring and summer days.

THE VERDICT

So far I’ve been very happy with the Paul Evans Caine Bit Loafer. They are definitely a shoe that I’ll wear for many years to come. Dress shoes can be ridiculously expensive, but these come in at $349. Yes, that’s still a decent sum of money. But, you are getting an Italian made shoe with high quality components, and when taken care of properly will last most of your working career. That makes them a great deal. The Paul Evans business model has so far been very impressive (direct to consumer with no middle man); their shoes’ quality and design could easily pass for brands twice the price. You can even save $25 when you join their newsletter or create a member account. So, go get ya some!

March 9, 2016December 19, 2017

Pre-orders Available for the New Normal Wireless Leather Headphones

An awesome product caught my eye recently, and I wanted to tell you about it. They’re sweet headphones called the New Normal. They’re wireless. They use hand-stitched Napa leather in the design. They have 8 hours of battery life. They can be customized to fit any ear. And this may be the coolest part–they have an integrated USB so you don’t have to keep a charging cord with you!

Here’s the catch: These babies aren’t shipping till early summer, so I haven’t actually tested a pair myself. That means your judgement on the pics and specs is as good as mine. But if you love the marriage of tech and leather, you might consider it. Especially because pre-ordering will save you $50.

You can read more about them at http://newnrml.com. You might also want to watch this short video. If you do order, make sure to post your feedback below. If not, expect a full review from BestLeather soon!

March 8, 2016December 19, 2017

Range Leather Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case Review – $145

I have recently taken up the hobby of smoking tobacco pipes. A good friend of mine introduced me to this classy and timeless pastime, and I instantly fell in love. But being the leather-loving guy that I am, I knew that if I was going to invest in smoking tobacco, I needed to have an equally classy and refined leather case to store my smoking essentials. Today I am reviewing the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case from our friends at Range Leather.

About

Range Leather is small operation out of Spokane, Washington, focusing on accessory goods like valet trays, wallets, bracelets, and more, as well as taking custom orders. We have reviewed two other pieces from Range Leather in the past: the Gannet Wallet and the Range Mug. BestLeather writer and fellow Washingtonian Jerry Higbee spent some time interviewing Kyle Koster, the founder of Range Leather, and I highly recommend spending the time reading through and listening to his series, A Range of Possibilities.

Construction

The Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case is constructed by hand using Horween English Tan Dublin Leather and .035” waxed polycord from Maine Thread Company. This particular leather is very oily, so it marks and scuffs easily. The case when closed is 7 inches long by 4 inches wide and 1.5 inches thick. When the case is unrolled and open, it measures 12 inches by 7 inches.

The leather is extremely durable, but allows just enough stretch room to snugly fit your pipe smoking necessities. The closing strap has two positions to allow more room for two smaller pipes or one larger and more accessories. I have been using the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case for a few months now, and I have yet to find any defect in the construction.

Function

As I have grown into an avid pipe tobacco smoker, I have found the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case to be an excellent addition to my smoking accessories. I store my Rigoletto pipe, a few pipe cleaners, a Zippo lighter, a pipe cleaning tool, and two 1oz bags of tobacco blends. I am not sure I would be able to fit two pipes in the pouch, but this isn’t a problem for me because I have only one primary smoking pipe. I have been thoroughly impressed with how the Sanford case has performed so far, and I look forward to using it for many years as I grow into a smoking connoisseur.

Aesthetic

Like most products made from Horween Leather, this piece is beautiful. The oily leather is marked and stretched easily to create an attractive patina. The leather goes very well with all types of pipes, and matches the classy aesthetic of a typical tobacco smoker perfectly. On the Range Leather website, the current photos of the pipe case are from the previous version. Kyle is currently waiting on updated product photos, so use the photos in my review to look over the case. The Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case will only get better with age, and it certainly will last longer than my lungs.

Verdict

I believe that the $145 price tag on the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case is a fair and demonstrated price. If you are looking for a classy leather case to conveniently keep your entire assortment of tobacco pipe smoking accessories in, this hand-made, high-quality product from Range Leather is a highly recommended option.

March 4, 2016April 25, 2024

74Street Bags Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness Review – $269

One of my favorite things about working with the leather industry is that I get to see firsthand how different companies create and design products with a similar function. Leather photography accessories have been a staple of any young or seasoned photographer for a while now, and 74Street Bags has contributed to the offering with an excellent piece, the Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness.

About

Mircea & Daciana Bule are the powerhouse couple behind 74Street Bags. Mircea is a licensed fashion designer and he has been handcrafting with leather for more than 20 years. He is referred to as the brain of design and handwork and Daciana, a manager by profession and a fashion design student, is “the brains of the business along with being Mircea’s apprentice in learning more and more everyday about the vast skills needed for handcrafting leather.” This Romanian duo designs and creates some unique bags – which seem to be very popular through their Etsy storefront, which shows a 5 star rating and healthy sales. This second time around we are reviewing the Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness from 74Street Bags.

Construction

The Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness is hand constructed with full grain leather and metal pins and D-rings. The leather has been sourced with imperfections and marks that make each piece unique. This specific leather has a nice matte finish that looks good with anything, but also provides plenty of support for two heavy cameras.

The entire harness is hand-stitched by the couple, and after long inspections I could not find any crooked, missed, or compromised stitches. It is obvious that 74Street Bags takes much time and care in each product construction. The harness is also built using two pieces of leather, stitched together to make an even stronger, more dependable accessory for your expensive photography gear. Overall the harness’ construction is top-quality, and I would expect nothing less because it carries around thousands of dollars worth of cameras.

Function

74Street Bags has done a good job at combining style, quality, and function in one leather product. The harness is extremely easy to use, as you just swing it on, attach your photoshoot camera, and begin your shoot. This specific harness was designed for carrying two cameras, one on each side of the body. The metal pins are easy to adjust for body size, and the metal sliders flow freely on the leather shoulder straps. This makes for a smooth and efficient shooting motion that every photographer can appreciate. While the camera clip on system also functions well and will continue to do so for a while. Don’t let the thinness of the small clips make you nervous. Daciana has assured me that the clips are designed to support more than 80kg (176+ lbs)…which is way beyond the normal load that any photographer will connect to these straps.

Aesthetic

74Street Bags creates products that appeal to people on several different levels. The attractive, easily scuffed leather and metal hardware combine to make a piece that will not only be a solid addition to your photo accessories, but also a conversation piece when worn. The patina has already started to change a little, and it will definitely get better with age. Many people have flocked to the 74Street Bags’ Etsy store because their products have a story, are extremely well built, and guaranteed to last a lifetime, and it is easy to understand why after using the Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness.

Verdict

I have thoroughly enjoyed using the Multicamera Photographer Leather Harness from 74Street Bags. The harness will make an excellent addition to any photographer’s collection and will work well for many years to come. Priced at $269.00, the harness is an investment that I believe photographers should make.

March 4, 2016December 19, 2017

Jaunji Debuts Leather Jackets On Kickstarter

Jaunji Goods has announced a new line of men’s and women’s jackets made with lamb, goat, or natural grain cow leather via a new Kickstarter campaign. For men, the jackets come in four styles: Moto, Cafe Racer, Bomber, and Uptown, a simple high-collared design. Ladies’ jackets also come in two styles: Uptown, and a moto style with an asymmetrical zip. The jackets come lined with standard viscose lining, but can be upgraded to a herringbone wool.

You can get a jacket with standard lining and your choice of color for $339, which is about $200 off expected retail price. Couples can pledge $669 for jackets of their choice. Jaunji has already more than met their Kickstarter goal, but this gives buyers a chance to add a nice quality leather jacket to their wardrobe for less. Keep an eye out in the next week or so for a review of the men’s Uptown Jacket!

99d68d6c02e15045f747114d8c03ed94_original

2abe7a75c6016c2a8aaf660f71ce21a5_original

17e89da933ddc8c5218cf2ebaac2ca1a_original

March 2, 2016July 13, 2018

First Impressions: The Kendal & Hyde Classic Attache

Update (March 2017): Sadly, Kendal & Hyde is no longer in business. Many of their designs have been revived by SALT Co. Great leather bag options from other companies here.

From Kendal & Hyde we have a new line of modular computer briefcases in their Classic Attache. Another product launched with a very successful Kickstarter campaign, these beautiful briefs with a formal touch are offered in a concise array of options to suit buyers’ personal taste and needs.

ABOUT KENDAL & HYDE

Kendal & Hyde have been in the leather hardgoods scene for a few years now and are based out of California and Utah. The company has developed a strong reputation on Kickstarter, with eight successfully funded projects including a few Kickstarter staff picks. Kendal is constantly looking for ways to meet timeless looks with modern needs in his designs which has resonated soundly with his backers.

CONSTRUCTION

Kendal & Hyde pride themselves on products with no excess. With the exception of what’s become their signature authentic buffalo nickel on the handle, every aspect of the Classic Attache has a purpose that, first and foremost, enhances its functionality.

For starters, no corners have been cut in the construction materials: the leather is North American sourced, full-grain, and vegetable tanned; the thread is marine-grade polyester; the hardware is custom solid brass. The main body is made of 2-3mm (5-8oz) leather, layered together more often than not for the external walls, giving a fairly rigid, formal briefcase structure made of solid leather–no lining or padding is used. The straps are made of 4.5mm (12oz) belt leather.

Going beyond the basics, numerous clever design additions are what really make me love the Classic Attache.

The front and back panels extend past the sides enough to create a rigid lip that the bag can rest on. The closing strap that goes around the entire bag is extended through this lip to ensure it doesn’t rest on the ground, providing additional stability for the bag and protecting the strap from wear.

Numerous critical rivets are carefully placed so that stress comes from the side, rather than directly pulling apart at the rivet connection.

A small piece of leather connects the shoulder strap hardware to the sides, preventing hardware from rubbing against the attache.

To ensure the elements don’t make it to your items, the top flap extends beyond the side walls, and short flaps attached to the side walls extend over the main pocket.

The shoulder pad is stuffed with soft leather for padding, which helps maintain shape and prevent ridges that dig into your shoulder. In response to customer feedback (which Kendal & Hyde are great at), they’ve gently roughed the leather on the bottom side of the pad–a very effective solution for slipping.

Narrow (3”) or wide (5”)? The narrow serves as a laptop bag with some room to spare, and the wide can carry more with a more stable base. The inner pockets and layout remain the same with either option.
Single or double strap? Two straps does provide a more secure closure, but this choice is also based on aesthetic preference.
Front pockets, or no? This will affect both your storage and aesthetic. The single strap offers two pockets, and the double strap offers one.

The selection process is simple, but ensures you get the customized bag you truly want by allowing you to meet your own functional and aesthetic preferences.

FUNCTION

The Classic Attache is divided into a few pockets and a main storage area. The largest pocket is designed for a laptop up to 15”. There are smaller pockets for items such as chargers or small tablets, in addition to loops for pens and keys. It’s compatible with Kendal & Hyde’s add-on accessories.

Unfortunately, we’ve so far only been able to experience the Classic Attache briefly for first impression purposes. While this short time has given the impression of a product that will function to all expectations, more detail on the functionality from daily use will be given once we’ve had a chance to more rigorously test a production model.

AESTHETIC

The beauty of the Kendal & Hyde Classic Attache comes from a refreshing combination of timeless inspiration and simplicity. There aren’t any flashy design aspects added to the Classic Attache. Instead, the gorgeous leather, other quality material, and strong, functional design speaks for itself.

CONCLUSION

This is a great option for someone who needs a laptop bag (customized to your needs) with a classic, somewhat formal look that will last a lifetime. The Kickstarter project has ended, but Kendal & Hyde are still offering pre-order discounts on their website at the time of writing. The Kendal & Hyde Classic Attache is a highly recommended Buy It For Life product.

March 1, 2016December 19, 2017

Made in Wisconsin: See How Thorogood Boots are Made

The Weinbrenner Shoe Company (known primarily as Thorogood Brand) has been making footwear in Wisconsin since 1892 and in this factory since the 1930s. Their local ABC affiliate recently featured them in their “Made in Wisconsin” special report series, giving us a peek into the inner workings of an all-American shoe factory. You can see employees inspecting the American-sourced leather, cutting the hides, assembling the uppers, attaching the soles, and getting each pair ready to ship out.