First Impressions: Jaunji Designs Uptown Jacket in Lambskin

Jaunji Designs has announced a new line of men’s and women’s jackets made with lamb, goat, or natural grain cow leather via a new Kickstarter campaign, which we reported on a few weeks ago. They quickly met and exceeded their goal, but jackets are still available for preorder. We were able to get our hands on a sample jacket in the Uptown style, a high collared jacket with a classic fit.

The Uptown jacket has snap cuffs, two zip chest pockets, two side pockets, and two interior pockets, one of which is zippered. This jacket is made with lambskin in a light cognac color with a subtle distressed finish. It also features a herringbone lining which is soft to the touch, but durable.

For men, the jackets come in four styles: Moto, Cafe Racer, Bomber, and Uptown, a simple high-collared design. Ladies’ jackets also come in two styles: Uptown, and a moto style with an asymmetrical zip.

The construction of the Uptown jacket is solid. Seams are even and the hardware appears to be well made too. The leather is soft to the touch and has a pleasant aroma to it. Lambskin is not super thick, but still retains great strength and durability.

What’s especially nice about the Jaunji Uptown jacket is the weight. It’s a great option for spring, early fall and those days when the weather just calls for a lighter weight jacket. The lack of bulk is definitely noticeable and appreciated. The cognac color is aesthetically pleasing and along with the style of the jacket lends itself well to business casual attire or simple casual daily wear.

The jackets come lined with standard viscose lining, but can be upgraded to a herringbone wool.The herringbone lining gives the jacket a bit more of an upscale look – this is just our opinion especially since we haven’t seen the standard version in person.

The cool thing about these jackets is that they are custom-fit, to measurements you send in upon purchase. So there’s not a back stock of pre-made jackets, they are made specific to your measurements and leather choice.

Verdict

Overall, our test jacket has been well received in public. People enjoy the feel of the leather and comment positively on the style and color. We can easily see why Jaunji met their original Kickstarter goal in less than 8 hours. There are still spots available on their Kickstarter to get the jacket style of your choice with standard lining and choice of color for $369, which is about $200 off expected retail price. Couples can pledge $669 for two jackets of their choice. This is a good deal for a high quality, custom-fit jacket made to your specifications. We look forward to seeing how things progress for Jaunji with this project and designs that are launched from them in the future.

March 16, 2016June 24, 2020

Election 2016: Who Gets the Next Presidential Johnston & Murphy Shoes?

If you are familiar with footwear brand Johnston & Murphy, you probably know that the brand has been responsible for providing footwear to every president since Millard Fillmore in 1850. Most recently, they provided President Obama with a pair of black oxfords and an updated version of President Lincoln’s lace-up boots.

Now, with election season in full swing, we’re asking the important questions: who gets the next pair of presidential Johnston & Murphy shoes? There’s a chance America may have its first woman president. This video from CNN Money discusses this possibility with J&M’s CEO Jon Caplan, and explains a bit about Johnston & Murphy’s presidential tradition. Check out J&M’s history page to see some more presidential styles throughout history.

March 15, 2016December 19, 2017

Measuring the Thickness of Leather

In our reviews, we often talk about the thickness of leather. The thickness of a piece of leather affects its durability and flexibility, meaning it’s important for the informed consumer to have a general idea of leather thickness is and what types of products each range is used for. There are several ways to measure the thickness of leather, which we will explain below.

The Ounce
We most frequently refer to the thickness of leather in terms of “ounces.” This can be confusing because the term actually refers to a linear measurement as opposed to weight. In the leather industry, an ounce is 1/64 of an inch. So, if you have a piece of leather that is 8 ounces, it’s 8/64 of an inch. An easy reference point is to remember that a U.S. quarter is 4 ounces in thickness.

Hides can be through a splitting machine that can skive a piece of leather down to the desired measurement. But each animal is different and a hide can vary in thickness, so most of the time you’ll see each measurement presented as a range, such as 6-7 oz. The image below, from the Tandy Leather Buying Guide, shows a conversion chart between ounces, irons, inches, and millimeters, as well as a visual representation of the measurement.

The Iron
The Iron is an old, but still occasionally used standard for measuring the thickness of leather. It is most often seen in shoe manufacturing, especially in the UK, although the millimeter is a much more common measurement now. There are 48 irons in an inch, so each iron is a little larger than an ounce.

What are different thicknesses used for?

Shoes
An average leather outsole on a shoe is around 12oz (9 irons) thick. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, and the lining is about 1oz.

Of course, these thicknesses often vary with the type of shoe, type of welt, and type of leather used. Italian dress shoes are usually sleeker and thus use thinner leather in the soles and uppers. Blake stitched or bonded soles don’t require a thick insole like Goodyear welted shoes.

Bags
Bags are generally crafted from medium weight leather, and can be anywhere from 3-7 ounces, depending the desired weight and durability. Many bags are lined with pigskin or another thin layer of leather, which usually measures in at around 2 ounces.

Belts
The standard weight for a sturdy men’s belt is 7-8 ounces.

Wallets and Accessories
Most wallets, notebook covers, and billfolds are made with leather that is 2-4 oz. Heavy accessories like knife sheaths, hard sided cases, and holsters are in the 7-9 oz range.

March 9, 2016December 19, 2017

Paul Evans Caine Bit Loafer Review – $349

We all know that shoes don’t make the man…but they certainly make the man feel more suave, debonair, and stylish that’s for sure! But, when searching for a pair of shoes to wear to the office or those more upscale events, the choices are vast. Classic dress shoes rarely go out of style. So when you’re ready to purchase, do so wisely as a well-informed consumer. We encourage you to read about Leather Shoe Construction and Leather Types Used in Shoe Construction – we hope you’ll find those informative and helpful articles as you begin your decision on which brand and style of dress shoes to purchase. And, speaking of brands, we hold Paul Evans in high regard, so let’s take a look at their Caine Bit Loafer.

ABOUT

Paul Evans is a small operation based in New York City, where the shoes are designed. Each pair of Paul Evans shoes is manufactured in a family-owned factory in Naples, Italy. They’re e-commerce only, meaning there are no middleman markups.

“When we set out on this venture, we knew we wanted quality, but we weren’t interested in creating a pair of thousand dollar shoes. We never understood why beautiful, timeless shoes were still monopolized by the traditional brands while other parts of the fashion world were being disrupted by the powers of technology.”

In January of 2014 we featured a guest post from Paul Evans entitled, “Why My Leather Shoes Are Made in Italy”, which is a great piece on (you guessed it) why Paul Evans’ shoes are made in Italy.

CONSTRUCTION

Each pair of Paul Evans shoes is made of Italian calfskin leather. The upper is made entirely of full grain Italian leather, in a beautiful black with a classy sheen. The soles are also leather, handpainted black to match the uppers. The inside is lined with soft, light brown leather that adds comfort as well a smart contrasting look.

The sole is Blake-stitched, which means the upper is wrapped around the insole and attached between it and the outsole. This gives the shoe a bit more flexibility, as well as a sleeker sole, and the ability to be re-soled in the future. The Caine is expertly constructed, with its subtle curves and perfect stitching.

AESTHETIC

The Caine Bit Loafers have a dressy loafer shape to them, with a bold horsebit crosspiece further embellished with a signature Paul Evans fleur-de-lis. With a high-polish leather, a pronounced heel (about 3/4 inch), and bold hardware, these shoes definitely stand out. The impression from my office mates has been extremely positive with lots of questions about them and positive comments about the color and overall style. They are not as modern of a style as most of Paul Evans’ line, but is still a versatile shoe with broad appeal.

The vamp is of medium depth, so the shoe can be worn with or without socks. The shoe definitely has Italian influences to it with the horsebit hardware and a somewhat elongated and elevated toe. The Caine comes in three colors: black, oxblood, and marronne (a medium brown). The black is of course the dressiest of the three.

FIT

Paul Evans warns that that their shoes run a full size and a half large, and they aren’t kidding. Be sure to order smaller than you’re used to. Paul Evans’ customer service has been very helpful in our experience, so don’t feel worried or afraid to ask questions. Once you’ve determined the correct size, ordered and received them, it’s time to get them on your feet. Holding a quality dress shoe in your hands is great…but walking in them is just awesome and such is the case with the Caine Bit Loafers. They break in quickly and all day comfort isn’t really considered – it just happens. The Cain Bit Loafers are a versatile style that can be worn in colder weather and then easily worn sock-less on warmer spring and summer days.

THE VERDICT

So far I’ve been very happy with the Paul Evans Caine Bit Loafer. They are definitely a shoe that I’ll wear for many years to come. Dress shoes can be ridiculously expensive, but these come in at $349. Yes, that’s still a decent sum of money. But, you are getting an Italian made shoe with high quality components, and when taken care of properly will last most of your working career. That makes them a great deal. The Paul Evans business model has so far been very impressive (direct to consumer with no middle man); their shoes’ quality and design could easily pass for brands twice the price. You can even save $25 when you join their newsletter or create a member account. So, go get ya some!

March 8, 2016December 19, 2017

Range Leather Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case Review – $145

I have recently taken up the hobby of smoking tobacco pipes. A good friend of mine introduced me to this classy and timeless pastime, and I instantly fell in love. But being the leather-loving guy that I am, I knew that if I was going to invest in smoking tobacco, I needed to have an equally classy and refined leather case to store my smoking essentials. Today I am reviewing the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case from our friends at Range Leather.

About

Range Leather is small operation out of Spokane, Washington, focusing on accessory goods like valet trays, wallets, bracelets, and more, as well as taking custom orders. We have reviewed two other pieces from Range Leather in the past: the Gannet Wallet and the Range Mug. BestLeather writer and fellow Washingtonian Jerry Higbee spent some time interviewing Kyle Koster, the founder of Range Leather, and I highly recommend spending the time reading through and listening to his series, A Range of Possibilities.

Construction

The Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case is constructed by hand using Horween English Tan Dublin Leather and .035” waxed polycord from Maine Thread Company. This particular leather is very oily, so it marks and scuffs easily. The case when closed is 7 inches long by 4 inches wide and 1.5 inches thick. When the case is unrolled and open, it measures 12 inches by 7 inches.

The leather is extremely durable, but allows just enough stretch room to snugly fit your pipe smoking necessities. The closing strap has two positions to allow more room for two smaller pipes or one larger and more accessories. I have been using the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case for a few months now, and I have yet to find any defect in the construction.

Function

As I have grown into an avid pipe tobacco smoker, I have found the Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case to be an excellent addition to my smoking accessories. I store my Rigoletto pipe, a few pipe cleaners, a Zippo lighter, a pipe cleaning tool, and two 1oz bags of tobacco blends. I am not sure I would be able to fit two pipes in the pouch, but this isn’t a problem for me because I have only one primary smoking pipe. I have been thoroughly impressed with how the Sanford case has performed so far, and I look forward to using it for many years as I grow into a smoking connoisseur.

Aesthetic

Like most products made from Horween Leather, this piece is beautiful. The oily leather is marked and stretched easily to create an attractive patina. The leather goes very well with all types of pipes, and matches the classy aesthetic of a typical tobacco smoker perfectly. On the Range Leather website, the current photos of the pipe case are from the previous version. Kyle is currently waiting on updated product photos, so use the photos in my review to look over the case. The Sanford Pipe Tobacco Case will only get better with age, and it certainly will last longer than my lungs.