Introducing Rugged Minimalist — Exclusive BestLeather Preorder Sale

Here at BestLeather, we love to find young companies getting their start in leather goods–especially when they’re starting off right. We’re excited to introduce Rugged Minimalist, fresh off their very first Kickstarter and making some incredible products. We’re also excited to announce a special limited time pre-order promotion code just for our BestLeather readers!

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Rugged Minimalist is based out of Watertown, TN. Founder Jason Barnes and his crew were inspired by a desire to make things, and to make them better. After trying his hand at a few projects and becoming bored with his 9-to-5, the decision was made to start a new company and get their first boost from Kickstarter.

Rugged Minimalist has a beautifully simple mission. First, to use the best materials possible–the highest grade vegetable tanned bridle leather Wickett & Craig have to offer, solid brass hardware, and polyester thread. Next, to design their products with minimal, timeless designs–to ensure the style lasts as long as the material. Finally, to offer those products at a reasonable price–and back it up with a lifetime guarantee. Made in the USA.

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Their featured products are their line of bags. Alongside their own take on the classic briefcase, satchel, and messenger designs, they also offer a clever vertical satchel, perfect for your tablet, and a popular tote design for the ladies. Wallet and keychain accessories are offered as well.

As a special pre-order promotion and extension of their Kickstarter prices, they’ve decided to offer you, our BestLeather readers, an additional 25% off and free shipping to US customers with promo code BESTLEATHER25. Hurry over to Rugged Minimalist’s shop and pre-order today–not only will orders be fulfilled in the order they’re received, but in addition, the first five customers to use this promo code on an order over $300 will receive a free travel notebook wallet ($80 value)! Code valid until June 16th. Items expected to ship in July.

We’re excited to see this great new company grow. Look out for a full review of one of their bags, coming up soon!

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Oliberté Bokoroo Review – $140

The world we live in is constantly changing and there’s great people out there who are making efforts to be better at everything we do. I believe that a small portion of this success can be attributed to Oliberté and their Fair Trade efforts. The Oliberté shoes we have reviewed before were quite nice, so I am excited to dig in to the latest piece, the Bokoroo.

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About

“Oliberté is a sustainable brand supporting workers’ rights in sub-Saharan Africa. We believe in empowerment, transparency, and doing right by all. This means making premium quality products with a lifetime warranty, and it means treating every employee, everywhere in the world, with respect. In 2009, we started off as a small footwear company partnering with factories and suppliers in Africa. Since then, we gained enough momentum to launch our very own factory in 2012. We make every single pair of Oliberté shoes at this factory in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. In September 2013, we also became the world’s first Fair Trade Certified™ footwear manufacturing factory.”

To read more about Oliberté’s story and the Fair Trade model, check out their About Us page on their website.

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This company is dedicated to quality, respect, and humanity. Each and every pair of shoes or boots they produce reflects these intentions and principles.

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Construction

Right from the start the Bokoroo’s construction has been the most notable aspect of the shoe. Their classic, retro design are complemented by excellent quality stitching and premium leathers. The Bokoroo is constructed with a full-grain leather upper, goat leather lining, and natural rubber sole with an awesome map of Addis Ababa, the Oliberté factory location in Ethiopia. I Bokoroo is built extremely well, and the only niggle I have with its construction is the small leather heelpiece that isn’t completely attached. This may be for aesthetic, but I would prefer it to be sewn together due to it unfolding after extended periods of use.

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Function

I have not had one single issue with how the Bokoroo performs at all. The high-top has treated me well during miles of Las Vegas trade show perusing, thousands of miles on my motorcycle, and countless day trips around town. I am extremely impressed with Oliberté’s dedication to high-quality, accessible footwear. These shoes are built to last and I definitely have and will continue to put them to the test.

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Aesthetic

This is my first pair of high-tops that I have actually enjoyed looking at as much as wearing. The deep black leather is very attractive, and I am sure the other two colors are as well. The Bokoroo is built on the Oliberté Anbesso last, so there is plenty of arch support and comfort. Over time, the Bokoroo has stretched out just a little bit, but it still fits my feet perfectly, which are a little on the wider side. The shoe has already started to develop a worn in look, which goes well with the retro, African infused design.

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Conclusion

If you are a person who enjoys supporting companies that are truly committed to fair trade principles, Oliberté is an excellent choice. I have been impressed with the quality of Oliberté’s shoes for the price–  purchasing a pair is not going to break the bank. At only $140, the Bokoroo is a wise purchase for men looking for some quality, unique casual footwear. Head over to their site and check out some of the new models, some of which are a great deal. Ladies, be ready for an Oliberté women’s shoe review coming soon!

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Born and Bred England Cord Wrap and Card Wallet — Rebranding to DENAGY

In light of some big changes over at Born and Bred, we’ve had the chance to bring out and review some of their previous line of products – and introduce you to the brand new DENAGY. These two pieces are high end leather goods we can fully recommend, and the new product line brought with the rebranding to DENAGY introduces an increase in both quality and luxury.

CONSTRUCTION

Both the card wallet and cord wrap are handmade with Italian vegetable tanned leather that feels both sturdy and flexible. Edges are burnished and coated. Rivets and snaps are solid brass.

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The card wallet is hand stitched with in-house waxed nylon thread. The stitching is expertly done, uniform, and very strong. Between the quality stitching and sturdy rivets and snaps, you’re looking at products that will stand the test of time and look great along the way.

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FUNCTION

The wallet is a snap-closure main pocket with a single card pocket sewn to the back. It may be a card holder, but it’s very high capacity. Including one card in the front pocket, I managed to get 13 cards in! This is a bit of a stretch though, and 9 cards is a more reasonable limit. The wallet is fairly thin, though the snap does present a drawback here–it adds over ¼” (0.6cm) of thickness, bringing the wallet to about ⅞” (2.2cm)  with 9 cards. In exchange, you get the security of knowing your cards will never accidentally fall out.

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I really like this cord wrap. As you can see in the image below, it quite perfectly holds my workout headphones. It’s downright convenient to have them nicely wrangled in instead of the usual tangled mess. The notches keep your cord nicely lined up. It may struggle to hold a bigger cable like a computer charging cord, but it should handle most earbud headphones well.

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AESTHETIC

Both the cord wrap and wallet have a strong and defined look, carried by the presence of the snaps and rivets that give a slight biker feel. The leather is thoroughly dyed, and doesn’t succumb to scratches or marks too easily. Both of these products are refined yet rugged in appearance.

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REBRANDING: BORN AND BRED BECOMES DENAGY

The DENAGY brand was inspired by a nostalgia for 50s surf culture, a time when innovation went hand in hand with quality and style.

Paul De Nagy’s lifelong passion for making things by hand originally led him to making surfboards, but an appreciation for style led him into the fashion world and, in 2009, founding Born and Bred. Over the years his company grew to include leather wallets, accessories, carry goods, and collaborations with other like minded designers.

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Paul believes that hand made goods take on the personality of the person who makes them and it is with time, effort and love that they develop soul. He often describes leather work as having a zen like quality, a constant search for perfection that one can get lost in. It is this search for perfection that has led him to further refine his collections under the new name DENAGY. Essentially, Paul has quite literally put his name on the line.

The rebranding to DENAGY brings with it an added level of luxury and refinement. This evolution in quality, look, and feel includes use of more premium materials, such as shell cordovan leather and finer thread; new construction techniques; and use of better tools.

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Most people can’t believe that these products are handmade, which is ultimately the goal. That, along with the hope that your grandchildren might one day find your wallet in the attic and will want to use it…

We’re excited for the new and improved DENAGY. Make sure to check out their website, and be looking for a full review of one of their new luxury products within the next couple months.

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Mission Mercantile Stateroom Weekender Review – $695

If you were a VIP a century or two ago, you’d make sure you travelled in style. Whether by train or steamboat, a gentleman (or gentlewoman) most likely enjoyed the comfort of a stateroom, a separate room that offered privacy and quiet. Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender evokes this bygone era of travel, with its vintage style and hefty construction.  The Stateroom Weekender definitely makes you feel like a VIP, even if traveling is a little easier these days.

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ABOUT MISSION MERCANTILE

Mission Mercantile was launched in the fall 0f 2015, with the goal of creating beautiful leather goods with uncompromising quality. While the brand itself may be young, its creators are not inexperienced. Mission Mercantile is the project of the folks at Blue Artisan Group, a manufacturing collective based in Leon, Mexico. I recently got the chance to talk to Chuck Bowen, one of MM’s founders, who is clearly passionate about creating top-of-the-line leather goods. From our interview:

“We’re a mercantile on a mission. We want to serve men looking for meaning as a man while reestablishing family and heritage. Doing life together with his mission woman. We really want to bring back legacy values in a product, and take wisdom from past. Our goal is for us, and all of our customers to do life together.”

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CONSTRUCTION

The Stateroom Weekender is made with thick, full grain leather that’s been vegetable tanned. The leather is stiff and heavy, with some natural markings in the grain that prove it’s the real deal. The entire bottom of the bag is solid leather reinforced with brass rivets. The combination of the classic overnight bag silhouette, brass hardware and the full grain leather really completes the vintage look. My bag is the Rust color, a bright, almost orange color. There’s a lighter color, Oak, and a darker one, called Oil.

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The bag is a pretty simple construction with just one big pouch secured with a giant zipper – seriously, it’s one of the sturdiest zippers I’ve ever seen. The handles are also riveted onto each side of the bag, and the carry strap is thickly padded and attached with impressively sturdy lobster claws. A complaint I have with a lot of weekenders is that the removable carry strap feels like a cheap afterthought – but certainly not this one. This bag is heavy, so it’s definitely important that the carry strap and hardware are tough.

Inside it’s fully lined with an attractive grey and cream striped fabric that fits well with the vintage style of the bag. There’s a zippered pocket on one side of the bag, and a long pocket along the opposite side separated into three pouches. With the exception of the pockets tucked along the sides, the inside is wide open to pack as you please.

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FUNCTION

This is not a lightweight bag. It weighs around five pounds empty, and the stiff leather definitely adds a bulky feeling when you’re carrying it. This is not a complaint, however. I really love that I don’t have to worry one bit about packing it too heavy or being gentle with it. I can toss it around, scuff it up, and it only looks better.

The construction of the bag combined with brass feet on the bottom keep the bag standing upright, making it easy to pack and access. At the beginning, the leather makes the opening a little small, but it softens after a few uses and allows the pouch to open wider.

It’s easy to pack a weekend’s worth of clothes, and they fit without bowing the sides or affecting the bag’s shape. It’s around 20″ L x 9″ D x 14″ H, so it can function as a carry-on if needed (No private staterooms in Coach, unfortunately).

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CONCLUSION

I really couldn’t be happier with Mission Mercantile’s Stateroom Weekender. It’s impressively constructed and it’s clear that no shortcuts were taken. Nothing feels cheap or breakable; this bag is absolutely a Buy It For Life (and more) item. If you’re looking for a lightweight bag or a bag that won’t turn heads, this is not the bag for you. This is an impressive start for Mission Mercantile and we’re looking forward to seeing more products as they debut. Keep an eye out for more Mission Mercantile reviews in the next few weeks!

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Vicenzo Leather Arlette Leather Waist Bag Review – $79.95

Paunch pack, buffalo pouch, fanny pack… and the list goes on. No matter how you refer to the traditional waist pack, images usually bubble up concerning lost tourists or aspirin toting elderly folk. However, when reviewing the Vicenzo Leather Arlette Leather Waist Bag I couldn’t help but rediscover the versatile functionality these type of bags offer. If you’re curious to learn more, read on.

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CONSTRUCTION

Distressed vegetable tanned leather is used for the construction of the Arlette. Gold plated hardware is used for the D rings that attach the bag to the strap, and for the zippers as well. The adjustable buckles are chrome plated oddly enough, not sure why the gold consistency wasn’t kept. The black threaded stitching appears very neat and tidy with no loose ends, unlike my ex. The first compartment has an unlined back with nylon dividing it from the secondary compartment. Measures in at 7.5” wide by 5” tall and an inch thick.

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FUNCTION

The Arlette waist bag really excels at carrying your wallet/cards/keys/Casio SL-100 or whatever slim objects you like while still giving you total arm freedom.  Now I’m a guy and while this may not really be aesthetically suited for me, I did consult my wife on certain points. She’s a purse carrier but often leaves her purses at home or in the car and just relies on my wallet for expenses. With the Arlette she had no inconvenience of tying one arm up holding a purse. This allowed her to better manage our daughter while shopping and since she had her own wallet it helped alleviate the spending on my end which was quite wonderful. It’s a waistpack, so it can also be turned around to the back for better mobility, but this sometimes presents a security issue in tight crowded areas like concerts or tourist spots. The front pocket has a large leather tab which is good for housing cash and cards and the inside pouch will fit just about any standard size smartphone.

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AESTHETIC

The Arlette waist bag is clean in its design and fairly modern. It is slim, while this impacts versatility, it definitely helps in the looks department.  A lot of the older models of waist packs are bloated monsters with several rows of pockets and tasseled zippers sallying back and forth as the user walks. Simply put, it’s a good looking bag for what it is.

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Vicenzo does offer the Arlette in brown as well which is something to consider. I personally wish a manlier version was also available, perhaps with a rougher cut of leather and hulking brass hardware. I think the black version is more limited in terms of accessorizing but still seems to mesh well with everyday clothing.

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CONCLUSION

If after reading this, you’re starting to warm to the idea of considering a waist bag as a legitimate means of carry, The Vicenzo Leather Arlette Waist Bag is a pretty safe bet. The $79.95 is about ballpark for suchlike bags and the quality and manufacture won’t disappoint.

 

Minimum Squared Wallet Giveaway – $172 Value (2 Winners Chosen)

Congrats to Emily W. and Tarrin N. on winning a Minumum Squared Wallet!

We are pleased to feature a new giveaway from the great folks over at Minimum Squared – a small design studio out of Spain that focuses on minimalist wallets. Minimum Squared’s husband and wife team, Adrian and Sanela, are celebrating their win of the prestigious Red Dot Product Design Award, an impressive feat for a studio their size. You can read our official review of their black leather wallet here.

From the review:

One thing you’ll appreciate about m^2 is their extraordinary attention to detail. Their journey to create m^2 began when Adrian’s travels by plane and train had him considering the need for a front-pocket wallet that wouldn’t be uncomfortable while seated.  Furthermore, he wanted the wallet to hold all of his credit and bank cards, as well as look good next to a business suit.

The construction of the wallet reflects Adrian’s engineering background and Sanela’s eye for art. While the leather for the wallet is a single-piece, CAD-designed, laser cut and thinned material, the thread holding it all together is a hand-sewn Fil au Chinois waxed linen thread that goes from one corner to the other.  After testing several materials and leathers, they chose Harmatan & Oakridge vegetable-tanned goat leather for the grain, feel, and availability of colors.  It also tends to offer some stiffness after being laser-thinned, an important characteristic for any wallet.

My favorite feature of the wallet is the ability to pull paper currency out of the wallet without having to remove the entire stack of bills. You can also store up to 10 cards in the wallet in such a way that you end up not stressing the leather or stitching as much as a traditional billfold.

The giveaway will run until midnight on May 15th, when we will pick TWO lucky winners! Winners will be able to select their choice of wallet, as it comes in thirteen different color combinations. Enter below – good luck! 

Minimum Squared Wallet Giveaway

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Timberland Men’s Adventure Cupsole Oxford – $81 to $142

Leather dress shoes and functional hiking footwear have been a staple in the industry from the beginning. Both of these categories are full of excellent options and different styles, but the casual shoe category is quite possibly the biggest, broadest, and most common category of footwear. Timberland had been a powerhouse in the industry since its inception, and today I will be reviewing the Timberland Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford.

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About

Timberland can trace its roots all the way back to 1920s Boston, where Nathan Schwartz began his career as an apprentice stitcher. Schwartz and his family grew the company and, in the 1950s introduced an innovative injection-molding technique that allowed them to waterproof their boots. In 1973, they introduced the “Timberland” brand, and the rest is history. Timberland is now a huge clothing and footwear brand that operates stores worldwide. Their company headquarters are in Stratham, New Hampshire.

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Construction

The Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxfords are constructed using premium full-grain leather, authentic rawhide laces, rubber sole, and 100% recycled PET lining. (polyethylene therephthalate,-soda bottle plastic.) The leather used in this shoe is from a tannery that has been silver-rated, meaning this is an environmentally conscious and energy efficient leather facility. After miles of walking I can say the Adventure 2.0’s construction is very sturdy and durable, which will continue to stay that way with proper care.

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Function

I have worn the Timberland Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford for several weeks now and have not had a single issue other than scratches in the leather by my own doing. It is very easily scratched and marked, so if you prefer a cleaner look these shoes aren’t for you. I welcome character to my footwear, so scratches and marks are more than fine with me. My favorite quality of these shoes is their comfort level. I walked 8 miles one day in dirt, sand, and concrete, and I never once experienced any discomfort in the Adventure 2.0. The anti-fatigue technology really does work, and I highly recommend this shoe for active men who need a solid addition to their casual shoe collection.

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Aesthetic

I love the color of leather on the Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford. Its pleasant, even tone is wearable with myriad colors and styles in any wardrobe. After only several weeks of use, these shoes have already started to develop that worn-in patina many men are after, and I must say I am very pleased with the eye-catching classic style they offer.

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Conclusion

Timberland has proven that quality leather footwear doesn’t have to be outrageously expensive. The Men’s Adventure 2.0 Cupsole Oxford is only $82-$142 depending on size. For this reasonable price you will receive an incredibly comfortable, high-quality leather casual shoe, which I highly recommend. Head over to Timberland’s website and check out all the great styles of shoes they offer, you’re bound to find something you like!

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4V Design Classic Camera Neck Strap Review — $107 (€94,90)

As an editor for a leather blog, you start to think about the accessories you use on a daily basis that aren’t leather but should be. This led to my hunt for the perfect camera strap. I found a pretty good one that I’d like to tell you about—4V Design’s Classic Neck Strap.

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About 4V Design

4V Design is a seriously classy company.

They’re from Italy. And they’re passionate about photography, so they design accessories for photographers. Stylish, Italian accessories. They’re sort of anti-establishment too, “just love and passion,” as their creed says. They’re about quality and individuality. And that philosophy echoes in the details of this product.

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Construction

This camera strap is made from vegetable-tanned Italian leather, or Tuscany cuoio, as the natives say.

Two pieces of 14mm-wide leather are layered and then stitched together. The edges are then hand-painted for an elegant finish. The tips have a 10mm a synthetic strap sewn into them (a military-grade polyamide, light but resistant to wear and tear). You use these to connect the strap to your camera. You also have the option to add the quick-release clips in between the strap and your camera, which makes it super easy to detach the leather strap.

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Function

I was surprised when I actually put the strap on. The padding for your neck feels pretty good (I hadn’t realized I would care about the ergonomics, but it’s kind of nice). They say it’s made of suede, though the neck part seems to have a plastic covering of sorts with the 4V logo printed across it. Not sure how it’ll feel through the hot summer months, but I like it so far.

The strap comes in two widths: large (20mm) and medium (14mm). The thicker width fits best with a full-sized SLR. I got the medium which matches my smaller MILC.

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Aesthetic

I only have one gripe about this camera strap. I’m a lightweight, 5’11” with a shorter torso. With my build, I had to cinch all the straps to their shortest settings to get the camera to fall above my beltline. Don’t get me wrong—it fits, but you have a lot of extra leather and polyamide hanging out. I remedied this by removing the quick-release clips, which saved about 3″ on each side. I was bummed to lose the quick-release feature—it’s cool to detach the strap so fast—but I never actually used it anyway.

That said, this really is a beautiful piece of equipment. One of my favorite parts is actually the fastener—I love the look of the ring over leather. I ordered the “brown,” but they also sell black and “natural,” which is lighter, more of a sand color.

This is rare for me to say, but the photos on 4V’s site are actually more awesome than mine. (No, they’re not kidding when they say they care about photography.) If you’re not awed by their aesthetic, go peruse their site. You will be.

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BestLeather Conclusion

The 4V Design Classic Neck Strap costs €94,90. They take orders through PayPal, so don’t worry about converting currencies. They also offer free worldwide shipping, which is not a bad little perk. Your total will be around $106 in US dollars right now.

If you’re a professional photographer, this a home-run investment. It’s comfortable, sturdy, and stylish, and I guarantee it’ll boost your style points with clients.

 

 

Lems Shoes Mariner Boat Shoe Review – $105

Baseball season beginning, allergies picking up, and finding myself going to bed while the sun is still out are all things I typically look forward to in spring. Another perk though, being the opportunity to ditch the boots and wear some light and comfortable shoes. That quest ultimately led me to the Lems Shoes Mariner Walnut Boat Shoe.

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ABOUT

Lems Shoes is a family owned business that has been producing footwear since 2011. It all started when Grand Shoebah Andrew Rademacher was having trouble finding the ideal shoe, a natural design that allowed for unrestricted mobility. Thus began a long journey in development, from working at a shoe store to literally dicing up expensive sneakers to see how they were made. Lems is  based out of Boulder Colorado where Andrew designs the shoes. I was surprised to learn that Lems is ran by four employees and works closely with a factory in China who produce their footwear.

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CONSTRUCTION

The Mariners are made from 1.8mm full grain leather, the interior of the shoes have no lining to promote breathability. The soles are made from LemsRubber, a proprietary injection blown rubber. In case you’re not up to date on your rubber sciences, air-injected rubber is lighter, softer and more flexible than traditional rubber. However, this sometimes comes at a cost of less durability. You’ve got a 1.0mm Pigskin/ 4.0mm open-cell PU sole. The Mariner’s main difference from a traditional boat shoe is the lack of a heel. There is a zero drop offset which means when the shoes are on, your heel and the balls of your feet are equally level. At under 9 ounces, the Lems are easily half the weight of other shoes.

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FUNCTION

The whole idea behind Lems Shoes is to let your feet operate on their own, without the impediments of modern footwear. You definitely “feel” the ground more in these as opposed to shoes with thick soles. While you  might notice you can’t trounce over the occasional rock with the same aloofness as before, I personally feel the Mariners offer a more intimate walking experience. Since your toes are engaging more, you are more perceptive to how you move and navigate everyday obstacles. I would suggest taking these on a few shorter walks as you get used to the Mariners. The lacing does an adequate job of keeping your foot secure but I do wish the tongue was a bit higher or even better if it had elastic to keep it in place so you could slip them on without lacing. The zero break involved on the Lems Mariners is a nice break from the leather shoe norm and you’ll be out and about immediately.

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AESTHETIC

The Lems Shoe’s Mariner has that classic boating shoe ancestry that remains a pretty timeless design. The toe area is as wide as I’d go, as any more would look almost clog like. Although it should be noted that this is a fundamental feature of the Lems– the larger area for your toes to move improve your traction and foot engagement.

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The leather wears quite nicely and the sole contrast is on point. With a purely aesthetic objective, I would have liked to have had a straight edge from the heel collar to the tongue but understand this allows the fibula more freedom of movement. Overall Lems did a good job of retaining the boat shoe look while cleverly including minimalist features. Lems+American Flag Shorts+BBQ = Profit

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CONCLUSION

We’ve seen a lot of nice footwear here at BestLeather. Most of the time you need to spend weeks breaking in shoes, so it was an absolute pleasure just throwing on a pair and going. The build quality is pretty solid for the $105 price point and while the styling has a few minor hiccups in my opinion, I feel they are definitely one of the better looking minimalistic shoes out there. If you want a light, simple shoe that will help strengthen your feet, Lems Shoes Mariner Boat Shoe are a solid option.  

 

Hidesign Cerys Leather Multi-Compartment Tote Review – $168

Based in Pondicherry, India, Hidesign was founded in 1978 as a two-man workshop. The company now has over 80 exclusive branded stores and sells in hundreds of independent stores, making it a huge player in India’s accessories market. The company expanded to the U.S. in late 2014 with a pared-down line of men’s and women’s accessories. Each Hidesign bag is made by hand in India with vegetable-tanned leather from their own tannery, and all their hardware is solid brass cast and polished at their own forge. Their three teams of designers are based in Milan, London and Pondicherry. We’ve previously reviewed their Hector 17″ Laptop Backpack and found it to be well-made and well-priced.

From the Hidesign America website: “Founded in 1978, Hidesign has grown into a global leather accessories brand recognized for its quality, ecological values and personalized service. By keeping its focus on a classic contemporary look, Hidesign caters to the sophisticated urban professional and executive.” 

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CONSTRUCTION & FUNCTION

The Cerys tote is constructed using veg-tanned leather from their factory. The leather full grain, and smooth with a light sheen. It’s a simple tapered construction with contrasting orange stitching for subtle visual interest. It’s lined with a bright blue cotton fabric that adds a fun pop of color. The lining is a little bit too loosely attached for my taste, and ends up bunching up and catching on things.

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The tapered shape of the tote allows it to expand to hold quite a bit. It measures in at 15″L x 10 “H x 5.5″W. It can easily hold an iPad or even a small laptop. It can hold files, but don’t expect to fit binders or large notebooks. There’s a long zippered center pouch, as well as two long compartments on either side, one zippered and one open. There’s also a small zippered pouch on the exterior.

The straps are sturdy and have a good long drop length, allowing for comfortable over-the-shoulder carry. The bottom of the bag is flat, with the exception of the central seam, which allows the bag to stand freely even when open.

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AESTHETIC

The Cerys tote has a simple, contemporary aesthetic. While it can easily function as a nice, everyday purse, it looks most at home in a business casual office environment. The black leather is dressy but not showy. It’s not a super trendy design, but it’s a classic silhouette that will hold up well. The Cerys also comes in blue, brown, and red, with various colors of cotton lining.

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CONCLUSION

The Hidesign Cerys Tote is a simple yet elegant bag, with minimal branding and a contemporary aesthetic. Definitely consider your preferences when it comes to fabric linings– some people prefer it and others aren’t such big fans. But if fabric linings aren’t a deciding issue for you, this bag will serve you well in the office and elsewhere.

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Stevenson Leather Co. Voyageur Bifold Review – $125

Handmade from start to finish, the Stevenson Leather Co. Voyageur Bifold is an intricately designed classic wallet. This high capacity bifold will be able to carry everything you need, and the two-tone color scheme gives you a black formal wallet on the outside with a personal, stylish taupe touch on the inside.

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ABOUT STEVENSON LEATHER CO

Stevenson Leather Co. is a young one-man-show company out of Canada. A frustration with low quality shoes led Ryan Stevenson to begin his research into the world of leather. After discovering his new obsession, this self taught artisan began making products that would shape to the needs of their user and become uniquely their own over a lifetime of use. As his original interest was in shoes, Ryan hopes to eventually bring cobblery to Stevenson Leather Co. Keep an eye on this promising company.

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CONSTRUCTION

It’s hard to not notice the attention given to detail in the Voyageur Bifold’s construction. Every step is done by hand, and it’s clear none of them were rushed. The edges are all burnished through an iterative sanding and painting process, giving a smooth and flawless finish. The saddle stitching is nearly perfect and done with 532 black linen thread.

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The leather is 3oz vegetable tanned leather from the Conceria Walpier tannery in Italy. Outer surfaces are finished smooth, and inner surfaces are unfinished, still showing the ironed out grain fibers. The leather is dyed through.

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FUNCTION

The Voyageur Bifold features six card slots, two vertical ‘hidden’ pockets behind them, and a main cash pocket. This high capacity wallet should be able to hold everything you need, and some may prefer it in a bag over their back pocket. I can get six cards in the card slots + two cards in each of the hidden pockets without too much work, a total of 10 cards, though it feels a bit overstuffed. I found a good balance to be 1-2 cards in each hidden pocket, and four cards in the card slots, one in the top and bottom of each side. Taking out that middle card from the slots makes the remaining four cards much easier to get in and out, and the extra cards fit handily in the hidden pockets.

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The edges are all sanded and painted, and the surfaces are all ironed smooth, making cards and cash easy to insert and remove. A couple months wasn’t nearly long enough to allow this tough wallet to wear in, but it’s clear that after some extensive use it will only get better as the quality materials mold to individual use.

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AESTHETIC

The intricacy and skilled construction of the Voyageur Bifold are readily apparent.

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The Stevenson logo is gently printed on the outside of the wallet. A thin reinforcing strip of leather on the top edge of the cash pocket rounds the top of the wallet a small amount, but this overall balances the thickness and gives added structure.

I love the dual threat of the two-tone colors. On the outside, you’ve got a black wallet–formal and great looking. Then you open it, and you’ve got taupe with black stitching, giving a unique and raw feel. I think having the alternate inner color gives the Voyageur Bifold its own secret style. The visible grain fibers on the inner surfaces add further to this effect.

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I don’t think a single person that saw my Voyageur Bifold didn’t use the term “beautiful” at some point. The careful attention to detail and contrasting leather and thread colors make for a fantastic looking wallet.

CONCLUSION

The Voyageur Bifold is a pleasure to use and look at, and I’m confident it will only become better as it lasts for a lifetime. The handmade construction is very well done, and the variety of color and finish on the surfaces makes for a formal and stylish dual-threat. It’s a recommended, Buy It For Life product.

 

Vicenzo Signature Full-grain Leather Briefcase Review — $599.95

I was looking for a birthday gift for my dad when I came across the Vicenzo Signature Full-grain Leather Briefcase. As an accountant, he carries documents and electronics on a daily basis, and this bag had just the right mixture of panache and utility. The problem was, once I got it, I had some second thoughts giving it to him—because I seriously didn’t want to give it up.

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About Vicenzo Leather

Vicenzo Leather focuses on quality materials and quality workmanship, and they’ve delivered on both accounts. They produce mainly bags, and if mine is the rule, they’re all of exceptional quality. Their style tends toward more formal, for businessmen and businesswomen. However, this one has a rugged feel to it, which makes it fitting for a lot more places than just the office.

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Construction

The briefcase is made of full-grain leather. That means it’s the original outer layer (the grain) of the hide, with none of it shaved off. The details and character of that outer layer can be seen, including any natural blemishes and scars. The workmanship is expert, which you’ll see down to the finest details.

Not only is the leather top notch, the hardware is too. This includes the brass footings on the bottom of the bag, the zippers, snaps, and so on. Together, these features bring the bag to a weight of 2.5 lbs.—hefty enough to be pretty dependable. It feels elegant yet rugged, and I expect its long-term durability to match.

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Function

The briefcase has a center handle fixed to the bag, which is great for carrying it while it’s zipped. If you prefer unzipped, the two detachable side-handles are ideal. It also has a detachable shoulder strap which is excellent for any hands-free, on-the-go activities.

It’s dimensions are 16.5″ H x 13″ L x 5″ W. It’s a great size for a carry-on: It won’t take up too much space, but it gives you ample room to carry plenty of entertainment or business on a trip. It fits my 13″ Macbook just fine, and I expect it’d fit a 15″ too. (By the way, if you’re sensitive about your electronics, you might be careful not to scratch them on the zipper’s metal teeth.)

The bag comes with a variety of pockets, inside and out, for organizing your stuff. Some come with magnetized clips for easy access. Other zip up securely so you’re sure not to lose anything inside. The pockets add a nice dash to the bag’s aesthetics too. I’ll mention, though, that this makes the briefcase slightly front-heavy, meaning it tends to tip over on its front, depending on the weight of what you’re carrying inside. I found myself leaning it against walls or furniture with the front face against the wall.

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Aesthetic

To me, this seems like the perfect accoutrement for a wide variety of dress styles. It’s full-grain leather, meaning it wasn’t sanded down to smooth out the blemishes. This gives the bag tons of character. For example, in the photo above, look at the scar on the top-right pocket. Beautiful.

The shoulder strap is canvas with a leather stripe down the middle, an example of the detail in the workmanship.

Aside from that, I’ll let you judge the aesthetics from the pictures.

There’s also a black version—in case you’re wanting something more formal.

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BestLeather Conclusion

The Vicenzo Signature Full-grain Leather Briefcase is seriously amazing. I’m tempted to throw in some four-letter words here to emphasize the point, because “Really, really” just doesn’t seem to cut it. I love this briefcase, and I think you will too. If you’ve got the funds to pay for quality, you’ll be glad to have this briefcase on your adventures.

Also, a note to potential buyers, this bag is currently on sale at half price—$299.00.

Man on a Mission: An Interview with Chuck Bowen of Blue Artisan Group & Mission Mercantile

It’s been a big year for Chuck Bowen and the team at Blue Artisan Group. Just a year after opening their new factory in Leon, Mexico in late 2014, Chuck and the team launched their very own brand of leather goods known as Mission Mercantile. We spoke about how this new venture came to be, the inspiration behind it, and what’s next. 


What initially drew you to the leather industry?

In 2007, I was hired by Saddleback, and in 2008 I joined as CEO and helped open their leather factory called TrueBlue Productions. From 2007-2013 we enjoyed fantastic success, and I really developed a love for the materials, products, and people in the industry.

I’ve always been very drawn to organic materials. It started as I was growing up around dad’s hardware store in rural southern Georgia. Working, smelling, using tools he had had around for forty years. 

How did Blue Artisan Group and Mission Mercantile get their start?

In 2013 I left Saddleback and sold my interest in the factory. After I left, I took a sabbatical to refresh and take inventory. I talked to a lot of trusted friends, did a lot of thinking. Why wouldn’t I launch my own brand? It was just a yearning I couldn’t ignore. The icing on the cake was God sending four incredibly gifted partners.

We started the Blue Artisan Group factory first, at the end of 2014. Our ultimate heartbeat is that we’re artisans who love to create – so we decided to cofound Mission Mercantile together, and share this eternal passion for what we do.

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Tell me a little bit about Blue Artisan Group.

The factory is a bootstrap startup in the same town as Saddleback’s factory – in Leon, in the state of Guanajuato. It’s in the heart of Mexico, in the leather region. People in the region have been making shoes for decades. It was a great place to start in 2008.

A little bit about our name: Blue– It’s the color of optimism, possibility, nobility. Artisan– we handcraft products with leather and canvas. We are true artisans, handcrafting. Group– we have bigger ideas around growing the business. It’s very tight-knit down at our factory. Side note, the acronym for Blue Artisan Group was a funny coincidence. We didn’t realize til after we named it that it spelled BAG!

What are your long term goals for BAG?

We want it to be the most sought-after North American creator of leather goods. We have five key goals. We take great care of our people, we handcraft remarkable products, we maintain high ethics, we delight our clients, and we innovate. Our goal is to be good stewards who make the most of what we have to work with.

What makes Blue Artisan Group unique as a leather products manufacturer?

Passion, experience, product development. Those things allow us to offer a “handshake lifetime product” through BAG and Mission Mercantile. Everyone on our team is aligned toward a singular goal. That goal is to make and sell some of the most remarkable items in the world. Our team operates as one.

What is the most beneficial aspect of having your own manufacturing capabilities for Mission Mercantile?

We have the ability to bring designs to life no matter the challenge, and we can work closely with the artisans. We can’t compromise for any reason if you’re making our kind of products, so we can offer uncompromising quality. We have the ability to make and keep our lifetime promise. It’s rare that you can control the entire lifecycle of the product. This translates into the greatest value for your customer.

What is the goal of Mission Mercantile?

We’re a mercantile on a mission. We want to serve men looking for meaning as a man while reestablishing family and heritage. Doing life together with his mission woman. We really want to bring back legacy values in a product, and take wisdom from past. Our goal is for us, and all of our customers to do life together.

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Can you tell us a bit about your product line and the inspiration behind it?

We take inspiration from old items, make improvements, and modernize things. Long list of products coming! The Tradesman Bag looks back to an original product from the early 1900s– a bag that was used for carpenters and tradesmen to carry materials.

Our weekender bag, the Stateroom, takes inspiration from bags that were carried by travelers. This bag showed that you were able to travel, and had money.

The steamer backpack had a couple inspirations. In steamship days people would travel with steamer trunks, which were these big open boxes with individual bags inside that people would back separately. We also took some inspiration from old Pony Express Bags. They have the same clasp around the back, but we didn’t include the lock.

The Ice Block Bag has a leather handle on the bottom so you can turn it upside down and dump out contents.

I don’t want to give too much away, but we place certain things in our products that we call Cracker Jack prizes. Authentic, vintage goodies that we slip in as prizes. You’ve seen the pillows in the bags..we want things to be usable, utilitarian.

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What does your design process look like?

Our first step is sourcing and merchandising. We do a lot of research into yesteryear pieces. Early 1900s era. Some of the products we find give us a lot of design cues. We have sourced many original pieces, on Etsy, abroad, and many places. Each product embodies the values of the people that carry them. We’ll be sharing a lot of the stories on our website.

Once we’ve found pieces for inspiration, we work out the ideas through sketches unti we’re moved by what’s coming to life in front of us. Meanwhile we’re looking for materials that fit with this idea. The materials must be as remarkable as the design itself. This takes some time. I love naturally occuring materials – cotton canvas, leather, wood. Materials that were alive, had life.

Next, we model. We take that sketch and start to work it out on the table and craft by hand the physical form of the sketches. We work alongside sample makers to construct our “first born.”

No matter how ugly our “first born” is, we start working out the bugs. Construction, form, aesthetics, material functionality. We work through a series of samples until it’s ready – then it’s called a “blue tag.” We have lots of products in this stage now. Once we blue tag the bag, we send it to the artisans to reproduce. Then it’s on to the customer.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

To narrow it down – become an avid student first. Never stop learning. There’s so much to learn about these materials, not to mention sourcing, manufacturing, design, branding, et cetera. The barrier to entry is fairly high. Find a great mentor, someone who will tell you the truth, talk you through, encourage you. Follow closely or work with a successful smaller brand to learn the ropes. Persistence will end up being the difference maker. It’s hard to be an overnight success and follow that up with more success.

One of the advantages we have is being vertically aligned with the factory. Our clients come first, but there are a lot of advantages of owning your own factory. Making decisions, sidestepping sourcing issues. It’s really critical if you can do it. Work with a manufacturer who takes a close approach and takes care of their clients.

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What advice would you give consumers when looking for the right product?

How do you find the right one? There’s so much that consumers have to decide. Ask yourself: Will it give me joy? Will it give joy to the person I give it to as part of my legacy? Remember, it must improve with age. Make sure it won’t fail before you do. It should look its worst the day it comes out of the box. 

What are the “next steps” for Mission Mercantile?

Staying authentic. Continuing to attract people who are as fanatical as we are about our products and the way we make them. Continuing on our journey to become mission men and women.

Can you share some insight on any new additions to your product line?

In the near future, we’ll be honoring dads for Father’s Day. We’ll be launching lots of giftable items to last more than a lifetime. Wallets, bags, hunting gear, adventure products, and some tech products.

Long-term, we’ll be continually launching new products. We will soon be more than doubling our current offering. If they don’t turn heads, then we’ve missed the mark.

WATCH: Parker from Stock & Barrel Explains How to Choose the Best Leather for Your Project

Parker Lichfield, from Stock & Barrel out of Ogden, Utah, has put together a short informative video about choosing the right leather for your leathercraft project. He showcases some of his own products made with different types of leather and explains what thickness and finish is best for different projects. He’s also written a great post on the Stock & Barrel blog, which goes a little more in-depth into the topic. Enjoy!


Read BestLeather’s review of the Stock & Barrel Minimalist Satchel & Accessories

Leather 101: Caring for Leather Furniture

Hello BestLeather readers! I’m Chris Repp, a second-generation leather restoration professional and the creator of LeatherHelp.com. I’ve spent 25 years cleaning, repairing and restoring leather furniture, automotive leather interiors, leather jackets, bags, yacht cabin leather and private aircraft leather seating. More often lately, I’m training others to do the same.

While you are a sophisticated audience here at BestLeather, I am a blue-collar leather guy. I don’t have a degree in leather technology or a comprehensive knowledge of the many types of leather tannage. In fact, I tweeted out the other day that I learn something new every time I visit BestLeather. It’s true.

What I will give you today is insight born out of 1000’s of living-room discussions with my real customers over the decades. The result has been lots of practical advice on:

  1. Choosing the right leather furniture for you,
  2. Caring well for that leather furniture so it lasts a lifetime
  3. Dealing with the inevitable leather problem.

So here’s 25 years of advice in short.

Choosing leather furniture

  • Buying quality leather matters most – For a leather restoration guy, I say no to a lot of leather jobs. Mostly because the people bought cheap, junk leather or faux leather and I can’t fix it for them. So my first piece of advice is buy good leather from a knowledgeable furniture retailer or none of the rest of this advice will matter. It’s only lipstick on a pig.
  • Leather furniture for active families – Lots of my customers ask, “I have small kids and we have pets, should we get leather or not?” I say, “Certainly”, but then I point them back to my first piece of advice. If you buy cheap leather, the family will tear it up in no time. If you buy quality, I can teach you how to care for it and it will last for decades.

Investing in leather barstools can add a touch of sophistication to your space. When caring for leather furniture, it’s crucial to follow proper maintenance routines to ensure the longevity and beauty of your barstools.

  • How much should you spend and why – For most consumers, I recommend mid-grade, mid-priced leather furniture from a good furniture or leather retailer. Spend more than you initially wanted to but not enough to break the bank. Heres why: Cheap leather from a warehouse is obviously going to be a mess in no time. But on the other end of the spectrum, the highest grade aniline (unprotected) leather sofa is beautiful and butter soft but very delicate and may not be appropriate for most buyers. I’d talk to a good salesman about investing in a mid-grade, top-grain finished leather. A mid-grade pull-up or distressed leather can also be a great choice if you like a leather that will distress and patina with age.

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Caring for your leather furniture

  • Tips for cleaning your leather furniture – Some of these tips may sound elementary, but I’m just telling you the facts. These are tips I give because I get customers learning the hard way all the time!
    • Don’t use Windex, Simple Green or anything not made to clean leather. Only use cleaners made for leather.
    • Apply the cleaner to a soft, t-shirt material type cloth, not directly onto the leather. Clean an entire section at a time from seam-to-seam.
    • A good maintenance routine is:
      • Weekly – Dust off the leather with a dry cloth or soft-brush attachment to a vacuum cleaner.
      • Monthly – Clean the leather with a good leather cleaner
      • Quarterly – Condition the leather
  • Keys to conditioning your leather furniture – Most customers have the best of intentions but aren’t going to follow the rigorous routine above. So I suggest that they at least use a cream conditioner on their leather twice a year. However, if I see a fireplace or lots of direct sunlight in the home, I will urge they do the 4x conditioning a year. Dry heat will dry out leather if not treated. The final common suggestion I offer for conditioning applies to pull-up leather furniture. Pull-up leather has been “stuffed” with wax. After a few years, that wax comes off the seats and arms of the furniture. In that case, I suggest they get a thicker wax-paste conditioner and wax the leather almost like you would wax your car. Then I suggest waving a warm hair dryer over the wax to set it into the leather.
  • Unexpected household items can damage your leather furniture – I get calls each week from customers who just noticed a big discolored spot on their leather sofa. Once we trace it back, we discover it often is caused by a normal household chemical that they never guessed could take the color out of the leather. Here are several culprits I get all the time: Instant hand sanitzer, Dog flea and tick medicine, skin creams, hair gel or ointment, Windex, wood furniture polish, nail polish remover, and hot surfaces such as mugs or hot plates. All these items can easily remove finish from even a good quality leather furniture.

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Dealing with damaged leather furniture

  • What damages can be repaired – If you are planning to keep your new leather furniture for decades, it is inevitable that something may go wrong. No matter the damage, re-upholstery is always a possibility. The challenge with upholstery is to find a color and grain pattern that match. The cost of upholstery can be prohibitive, so it’s important to check if it can be repaired before spending too much money. My expertise is in leather repair, so I’m familiar with type of damages that can be repaired: Scratches, cat scratches, dog scratching, transit scuffs, stains of all types, discoloration, punctures, small tears usually less than 2”, sun fading, normal wear and tear, ink stains and surface cracking. I’ve seen them all, and a good leather pro in your area can repair them so they are almost like new.
  • An easy DIY cut repair video – My claim to fame on YouTube is a video I made late one night that teaches you how to fix a simple straight cut in your leather furniture. Watch the video here.

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Save money by hiring a leather repair pro

As a leather repair pro I have to make a pitch for our trade. So, here are a few ways you can hire a good leather pro to solve leather problems and save you some money:

        • Restoration is a great, green alternative to replacing 5-10 year old leather furniture. The frame, the cushions and even the leather itself are often in great shape. Only the leather surface needs cleaned and spruced up for a leather set to have decades more use in int. This usually costs 20% of replacement.
        • Restoration is a often a great alternative to reupholstery- For the more minor damages I described above, restoration is a cost effective alternative to reupholstery. I know many upholsters and they do great work, but will readily admit it can cost just as much as replacement. Restoration is less and can often be done in one day in your home.
        • Check around online or in your local classified ads and buy a gently used but quality leather sofa. A good pro can restore it for you for 20% of the cost of new.
        • Color change is an option for those who still like their leather furniture style but could update the color scheme in a room. This usually costs about half the price of a replacement set.

So that’s it, a small slice of my best stuff to help you choose and care for your leather furniture for a lifetime. I’ll admit leather furniture that lasts a lifetime is not the norm these days. I’ve seen some leather 10, 5, heck even 2 years old that is a mess already. I hope my experience and advice will help you be the exception!   There’s nothing like having a still beautiful leather sofa that’s 20 years old and has served you through decades of life memories.


Chris Repp is a second-generation leather restoration professional and the creator of LeatherHelp.com. You can sign up for his newsletter here. Follow him on Twitter and YouTube.

Dayton Boots Parade Boot Review – $422

I’m sure I’ve said this before, but I absolutely love a good pair of boots. There’s something about lacing up your dress boots to go out or kicking off a pair of work boots after a long day that just never gets old. I have been extremely excited about the Dayton Parade Boots for a long time, and after an entire year of wear, it is time to give my opinion.

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About

Dayton Boots has been around since the winter of 1946. Charlie Wohlford, the man behind Dayton boots had been successfully repairing logger’s boots back to better than new. Soon the small company was the go to place for all logging, construction, fire, and police professionals, especially considering the lifetime warranty. Since 1946, Dayton Boots has introduced numerous new models, adapted the Goodyear Welt boot making method, and climbed the rungs of the boot industry to one of the best handmade boot companies.

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Construction

The construction of a pair of Dayton boots is the company’s bread and butter. The company has been using the same 230 steps for constructing their boots since 1946. The Parade Boot is constructed using hand cut full grain leather for the upper, 6-12 iron (8-16oz) full grain for the insole and outsole and steel shanks to add extra durable support. These quality materials are then hand sewn together with double and triple stitching, and finally are Goodyear welted, all to the exact specifications you give them for sizing. The reason Goodyear welting is such a widely favored method for boots is because it is much more durable than other methods, and it is very easy to get them resoled. Dayton Boots is well known for having boots last several decades because of resoling, and I am definitely going to be using this service. I have been very impressed with the superb construction and have not found one flaw in over a years worth of wearing the Parade Boots.

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Function

If you couldn’t tell from the name and design, the Parade Boots derived from old army marching (parade) boots. This is actually one of my favorite styles of boot across the entire industry, and the Parade boot resembles that heritage dutifully. Although I am not using my Dayton Parade boots for marching, I definitely have used them for my fair share of walking, motorcycling, and even dressing up. This boot is truly an attractive, multifunction, and high quality boot.

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We often hear about new boot owners and their painful experience with breaking in a pair of boots, but I am happy to say that I did not experience any discomfort or pain in breaking in my boots, and I have before with others. Dayton constructed my boots to the exact specifications of my foot, and they have functioned perfectly since day 1.

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Aesthetic

The Dayton Parade Boots are some of the more attractive boots I have seen. The black leather can be worn with anything, and it obvious that the construction is better than most boots. I frequently am complemented on them, and when people ask about these boots, I happily tell them that the Dayton Parade Boots are among the best you can buy, and even though the investment is significant (which is actually less than it was a year ago), it will be worth it in the long run.

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The design and construction, fit, and the multifunction qualities of the boots are absolutely going to withstand anything you can throw at them, and if you do happen to need new soles, Dayton would be happy to resole them for only $84.

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Verdict

As I said before, I was extremely eager to check out the Dayton Parade Boots. After a year of wearing them and putting on some serious mileage, I am still excited to lace them up as often as possible. Dayton has accomplished everything you could ask for in a high-quality boot. Priced at $422 total, the Parade Boot is actually a competitive, fair price in the industry for such top-tier quality. Go ahead and check out all the great boots Dayton has to offer– it is an investment you will not regret.

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Leather 101: The Different Types of Leather

Leatherworking has been around for as long as man has been eating meat. It’s an old craft with lots of tradition and terminology. This makes learning about the leather craft a whole lot of fun, but it can also make it confusing for consumers. When buying leather products, you want to make sure you know what you’re paying for. This often means wading through the marketing and learning some of the common terminology when it comes to different types of leather.

About Cowhide

A cow, if you’ve never happened to see one, is a pretty big animal, so it has thick skin, and a lot of it. A whole cowhide is quite thick, and generally too thick to be useful for everyday leather products. So it’s usually cut down to be thinner and more useful for different purposes. (You can learn more about this from our last Leather 101 topic: Measuring the Thickness of Leather).

Cowhide is made of two main integrated layers – the corium and the grain. Collagen fibers in the corium are thinner and more flexible, and become tighter and thicker as they move up toward the grain, where the fibers are tightly packed and very sturdy. The corium becomes thicker with age, which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and softer than the hides of older animals.

Types of Leather Grains

The top part of the grain faces outward toward the hair, and can contain blemishes like insect bites, stretch marks, scars, and brands. This means that the very top part of the grain is often buffed off to make the leather look more uniform.

Types of Leather

  • Top grain
  • Full grain
  • Split leather
  • Bonded leather

When the leather is corrected in any way, it is called top grain. Leather with the entire grain intact is called full grain. Full grain leather, even though it may have blemishes, is more expensive and more sought-after than top grain leather because of its durability and longevity. Both full grain and top grain leathers are referred to as grain leather.

Among grain leathers there are three general categories: aniline, semi-aniline, and protected. Analine leathers (like Horween’s Chromexcel) are processed using soluble dyes to maintain their natural markings and texture, and do not have a surface pigment or coating. This makes them the most natural-looking leathers, but also more susceptible to scratching, fading and staining.  Semi-analine leathers (like most bridle leathers) are treated with pigments and thus conceal more blemishes and have a more uniform coating, as well as staying more protected. Protected leathers have a non-leather coating sprayed or attached to the leather as a protectant.

The bottom part of the leather, the part that is split off from the grain at the grain/corium junction, goes by many different names, and it can get really, really confusing. Many people refer to this bottom layer of leather as “genuine leather”, however, the term isn’t used consistently and is also used to mean real leather as opposed to manmade faux leathers. More terms you may see: split leather, corrected leather, embossed leather, coated leather, Suede, Napa leather (again, not a consistently used term), painted leather, and more. For our purposes, we’re going to refer to it as split leather.

Split leather can then be sliced down even thinner and used for other purposes. Often a polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic a grain leather; however these leathers are not nearly as strong or durable. This is sometimes referred to as a finished split.

Another use for split leather is suede, which has been textured to have a napped finish. Suede is often confused with nubuck, which is a grain leather that is textured to have a similar nap finish. The difference is that nubuck is much stronger and more durable than suede, though suede’s softness and pliability make it useful for certain applications.

Bonded leather is the lowest grade of leather, because it is not really leather – just shredded leather scraps and bits reconstituted with a filler and backed with an embossed polyurethane coating. It’s very cheap, but falls apart quickly. Bonded leather is found in low-end furniture and accessories, and sometimes book binding. You may also see this referred to as reconstituted or blended leather.

An old Bible with a bonded leather cover

How to Spot Fake Leather

There are several ways to spot a grain leather mimic, where split or bonded leather is embossed to look like more durable grain leather. If the leather in question has a very uniform or monotonous pattern, it may be evidence of embossing. Artificial leather also doesn’t have a pullup effect, which is a slight color variation when grain leather is bent or folded. Painted or polyurethane layers are non porous and thus do not effectively absorb leather conditioners.

Again, a word of warning to consumers: many of these terms are not used consistently, and you can get confused easily. The most common mistake I’ve run into is the use of the term “genuine leather”. Genuine leather is most frequently used to describe low quality split leather, but to be honest, it’s a dumb word, because many people (including myself) have made the very easy mistake of assuming that the word “genuine” means the opposite of “fake.” So I’ve seen lots of leather shops use the term “genuine” in their product descriptions, in an attempt to convey the fact that they are not using faux leather. But that term just ends up scaring people off, even if they have a solid product made with decent leather.

Go out there with your newfound knowledge, but be aware that sneaky marketing terms, old-fashioned lingo, and honest mix-ups can make things difficult. So don’t be afraid to ask questions!

North Star Leather Small Bifold Wallet with Window – $24.95

Quality is a difficult term to define. I believe that definitions of quality are unique to an individual’s character, but no matter who you ask, we all can agree on one thing: we know quality when we see it. In the case of North Star Leather Company, they have created quality products at an affordable price. This is the third product from North Star that we have reviewed, and it also does not disappoint. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window is a sensible, quality wallet at an unbeatable price, perfect for a leather beginner without breaking the bank.

North Star Leather Wallet1

 

About

Michael Batson, son of founder Steve Batson, gave us a short history of North Star Leather Co., an great example of a family business who started years ago, building themselves up to be a successful craft leather company.

“My dad started North Star Leather in 1969 doing street vending in Boston (fringe belts, floppy hats, and other “hippy” items). Little by little he grew the company and eventually moved to the rural south; the small town of Ruby, SC, population 354. That was more than 35 years ago and we’ve been making quality leather accessories here ever since. We have 15 employees (4 of whom are family) and are proud to have been able to keep making our products here in the USA without ever considering outsourcing production to cheaper countries.”

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Construction

The Small Leather Bifold Wallet is constructed using top-grain leather. The small wallet stands at 4.25 inches long by 4.25 inches wide when it is folded. Inside, the wallet contains “a large cash compartment that opens on two sides for easy access, ID window with a pocket underneath, and three card pockets on the opposite side that open from the side.” A plastic photo holder is also included with the wallet to hold a few meaningful pictures. The small wallet is very sturdy, constructed well, and has actually aged extremely well. The leather is stacked on each other and sewn together, so you do lose the clean line look of the wallet, but at the price, most people would not be hung-up over that for too long.

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Function

As with all wallets, the purpose is pretty straightforward. I am able to carry two IDs, two debit cards, several gift cards, two to three coffee shop stamp cards, and more cash than I probably ought to be carrying. The Small Leather Bifold Wallet with Window has been put to a considerable test. BestLeather has had this wallet for over 1 year and it has performed better than any store bought wallet I have ever had, and at half the price. The Small Bifold functions flawlessly, faithfully carrying anything I throw in it.

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Aesthetic

Because this wallet is almost a year old, we have had the opportunity to accurately observe just how much the patina changes in stages. The bifold was very stiff upon delivery, but at the two month mark obvious changes began to occur with the stiffness. After three more months, the texture of the wallet had changed entirely. The bifold had achieved a smooth, shiny patina, which made for an attractive, well-designed wallet. Over the next six months the wallet maintained that attractive patina and has aged wonderfully.

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Conclusion

If you are in the market for a quality leather wallet but do not really want to drop a paycheck on one, check out the North Star Leather Company’s Small Bifold Wallet. I can truthfully say this wallet will last as long as you will, especially if you don’t mind some minor rough edges and are willing to take care of it. I have been very impressed with the North Star Leather Small Bifold, so head over to their website and check out all their reasonably priced, quality products.

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J. Ryan & Company The Minimalist Review – $100

While this wallet from J. Ryan and Company may be called The Minimalist, there’s nothing minimal about the eye-popping design and gorgeous combination of leathers that make up this refined card holder.

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ABOUT J. RYAN & COMPANY

J. Ryan & Company, LLC is an Emmett, Idaho based company known for their custom exotic holster offerings, but more recently adding items such as belts, strops, and wallets. If you’re looking for a highly finished leather product, look no further. In contrast to the recently popular raw leather look, Jim and his company aim to bring you products that incorporate the best tans, dying, wax stuffing, and exotic leathers, custom made for the discerning individual.

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CONSTRUCTION

Let’s break down the symmetrical leather sandwich that is The Minimalist. Note that J. Ryan & Co offer a variety of leathers, so while I’ll mention the specifics to this wallet, a different combination could be ordered to your own taste – in fact, we have a shark version in an upcoming review.

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At the center, there’s a thin layer of elk – this is the highly textured leather visible at the back of the main storage pocket. On both sides of the elk is vegetable tanned horse side, which provides the wallet’s sturdy structure. The horse hide is visible around the edges on the inside of the main storage pocket and behind the single card pocket where J. Ryan’s logo is printed. Then, finally, and most visibly, the outermost layers on both sides are Chromexcel cowhide, finished in a rich burgundy.

These leather layers are machine stitched together with #277 bonded nylon thread, and thoroughly hand burnished all around the outer edge. The overall result is a card holder that is built like a tank, but maintains an elegant look.

FUNCTION

The Minimalist has two pockets for cards or cash, a single card holder and the main storage pocket.  The main storage pocket is able to hold 5 cards very tightly, and 3 or 4 cards more comfortably.

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All of the pockets are very secure; the single pocket is quite tight, and the storage area surrounds the sides of your cards with the horse hide layer, ensuring they can’t fall out. The single pocket was a bit too secure; sometimes the threads at the top prevented me from easily sliding a card out with my thumb. With the main storage, it’s simple to push back the top of the wallet a bit and pull out the card you need.

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At ½” thick, this Minimalist is a bit more noticeable in my pocket than a typical card holder may be. However, if you’re wanting a true minimal wallet and don’t need to hold as many cards, J. Ryan is happy to custom make yours to a desired thickness.

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AESTHETIC

The look of The Minimalist is striking. Many of my friends less familiar with leather hardly knew what they were looking at, but would slowly fall in love as they figured out how great the leather feels and how refined this wallet is.

Visible on the horsehide over the single card pocket is a stamp of J. Ryan’s logo, and it looks just as good as the wax seal on the box.

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Chromexcel is a pull-up leather, hot-stuffed with waxes. It’s soft and feels great to the touch – it also scratches easily, but scratches can easily be rubbed out (using a little paste wax if needed), and add to the character anyway. The burgundy on the wallet is deep, rich and beautiful. My appreciation for the aesthetic of The Minimalist has only grown with time.

CONCLUSION

J. Ryan and Company’s The Minimalist card holder is a stunning combination of leathers, well constructed and finished to a high-class level of refinement. This sturdy wallet should withstand years of use and only get better with time. It’s a Buy It For Life product that you’re going to love more each time you use it.

 

Sailormade Endeavor & Journey Leather Bracelet – $114

Sailormade is an accessories brand based in Boston, MA, focusing on high-quality marine inspired accessories for men and women. Their product line includes necklaces, belts, and bracelets, many of which feature nautical inspired hardware. Brand owner Bridget Harriss was attracted to nautical hardware because of its functionality as well as its classic appearance. Today we’ll be taking a look at the men’s Journey Leather Bracelet and the women’s Endeavor Leather Bracelet.

Sailormade Cover

 

ABOUT THE BRUMMEL HOOK

Each Sailormade hook is made with a lost wax casting (also known as precision casting) method. The Brummel Hook is also known as the Inglefield Clip or the Sister Hook. Invented in the 1890s by Lieutenant Edward Inglefield, it was originally used on boats to quickly attach and raise signal flags for communication between ships. The clips can be quickly attached and detached, but only if the hooks are aligned just right – which can only be done by hand, not by wind or water. They are a quick, sturdy attachment, and stay securely fastened especially with tension on either side. Inglefield/Brummel Hooks were quickly adopted by the British Royal Navy, becoming the standard by 1895.

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The “Seed” color has darkened up after 6 weeks of use

THE BRACELET

The Endeavor is made in New York City with Italian leather and a solid brass Brummel hook. The leather is carefully folded and braided so there are no rough edges. The bracelet is quite smooth and after 6 weeks of near-constant wear, there is no sign of the leather unraveling or unfolding. It has a double wrap fit, giving you two layers of braided leather. The brass Brummel hook is the star of the show, however, adding shine and visual interest. Ladies can even get a sparkly version, known as The Luster.

AESTHETIC

The Endeavor bracelet is a best-seller for a reason. They are understated yet stylish. I’ve had my eye on the nylon marine rope version for quite a while, without knowing that there was an Italian leather version. This bracelet is stylish enough to dress up or down, or be added to a wrist full of bangles without looking showy.  My “seed” color is a light brown that’s very versatile, and darkens up slightly over time. The bracelet also comes in deep dark brown, midnight blue, and orange. The polished brass goes well with gold jewelry, and since my wedding ring is gold I find myself wearing this bracelet nearly every day.

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The men’s Journey bracelet also has the brass hook with a matte finish, and comes in black, deep dark brown, midnight blue, and orange. For review I received the Deep Dark Brown color and absolutely love it. The dark, classic color goes well with my wardrobe of neutral and classic colors, which is perfect for men looking to add just a touch of class to their style. I wear the Journey bracelet all the time, whether I’m in short sleeves or long sleeves, it adds just enough flair to my style, and gets compliments regularly.

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FIT

If you are like me and don’t like big, jangly jewelry, this is the bracelet for you. It lays quite flat around the wrist and doesn’t jiggle, make noise, or get caught on things. The Brummel hook takes a bit of getting used to, but for ladies it’s no harder than the average lobster claw or spring ring clasp on most bracelets. My wrist is a little over 6.5″ and the ladies’ medium fits me perfectly.

For men who aren’t used to clasps, you will definitely need some help the first few times around, but it’s easy to get the hang of. The men’s Journey bracelet is a men’s size large, and fits pretty snugly on a 7.25″ wrist. There’s a sizing chart at checkout, so do be sure to measure your wrist, as you want to ensure that your bracelet fits correctly.

CONCLUSION

The men’s Journey Leather Bracelet and the women’s Endeavor Leather Bracelet are beautiful, simple accessories. They’re not cheap, but you’ll find yourself wearing them often, if not nearly every day. We have both thoroughly enjoyed our bracelets. It’s a great addition to my jewelry collection and has become a staple in my mix-and-match accessories options.

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