E3 Supply Co Passport Notebook & Tactical Keychains Review

The first time I went to E3 Supply Co’s website, I thought my web browser had auto-filled in a website from my history–why was I going to a page about motorcycles? I was in the right place though. E3 began by making custom motorcycles, and carried that spirit of freedom into making killer leather accessories. We’re going to look at a couple items that would fit right in with any biker’s every day carry–E3’s Passport Notebook and Tactical Keychain series.

Horween Leather Passport Notebook

There’s lots of great options out there for a small leather notebook cover. E3’s Passport Notebook is distinguished in that it’s kept very simple (no card or pen slots), but can hold two smaller Scout notebooks. The Horween Chromexcel used is nice and thick, and as soft yet strong as we’ve come to know and love of this leather. It looks great and E3’s wing logo is very cool.

Elastics at the centerfold are used to hold the notebooks in the cover, and another elastic is used to keep it closed when not in use. This is a great system that makes the Passport Notebook very easy to use. It’s quick to pull out and jot notes when the moment comes, and with some flexing can lay nice and flat. One unexpected use I found when I only needed one notebook was to use the freed-up elastic to hold cash or receipts. A drawback about the elastics is that they’ll be far outlived by the Chromexcel, but they should be quite simple to replace once they wear out.

Chromexcel Tactical Keychain V1 & V2

Everyone needs keys, and every key needs a good keychain. E3 offers two options of their Tactical Keychain, and I’ve had the chance to test out both. V1 is for those who prefer to clip their keys to their belt loops, and V2 is for those who like to snap the entire keychain to their belt and unclip their keys when they need them (or perhaps those who want to save a few dollars on the less expensive of the two). I’ll let the visible wear-in on mine show which I preferred!

Both versions are well made with the same thick Chromexcel as the Passport Notebook. V1 uses a thick stitch at each corner to hold three folded layers of leather together and the hardware in place, and V2 uses a single snap rivet to keep its two layers of folded Chromexcel in place. Hardware is military spec Hk style rifle sling clips. The PVD coating on the clips is starting to wear on the contact points of my clips, but this shouldn’t affect function or longevity. Everything involved is tough enough to handle the abuse a keychain takes for years to come.

BestLeather Conclusion

E3 Supply Co. is a cool company with some great products. Their Chromexcel Passport Notebook and Tactical Keychains are simple, well put together items with our recommendation. Prices are reasonable as well–the Passport Notebook is $45, and the tactical keychains are $39 for V1 and $29 for V2.

E3 has many other great accessories to offer, as well. Be looking forward to a review of their Holster Style Slim Wallet in our upcoming wallet roundup as well as a review for their Apple Watch straps in the coming weeks.

October 12, 2016December 19, 2017

Andrews Leather Monarch Shoulder Rig and Holster Review — $250

I’m not in law enforcement, and I don’t wear a gun on a daily basis. The truth is, my interest in holsters comes primarily from Indiana Jones and Uncharted.

In other words, I was imagining a quest for Shangri La instead of considering functionality. I spent a lot of time looking for a certain style, something with a renegade panache. I was pleasantly surprised to discover the Andrews Leather Monarch Shoulder Rig and Holster, which excels in both style and utility.

About Andrews Leather

When I found pictures of the Monarch Shoulder Rig, I knew it was exactly what I wanted. But the site seemed a decade out of date, and I couldn’t find a place to order. I saw a phone number and called. A friendly voice greeted me: “My name’s Sam Andrews. I’m the owner.”

He spoke with a kind, mild, sincere tone. And although he mentioned being overloaded with orders, he seemed in no rush as he chatted with me. He told me he doesn’t do email—his hunt-and-peck typing is just too slow. And he prefers speaking directly with the customer anyway.

Sam said he’s been doing leatherwork for 41 years. It began when as a teen he cut apart a ruined police holster. Later he served as a police officer but left “because of the politics.” That’s when he stumbled into leathermaking as a career, and his business has been quite successful ever since.

Construction

I first put on Sam’s Monarch shoulder holster while standing in front of a mirror, and I couldn’t help but grin.

The shoulder straps are made of a lightweight suede, which at first seemed a little too lightweight. But I soon realized this was for comfort. The suede trades durability and gains softness. It’s comfortable against your back and conforms to your body. I’ve never tested my bodyweight against it though, and I wouldn’t plan on hanging from it while sliding down a zipline. But it’s more than adequate for carrying a Glock and a couple loaded magazines.

The holster, on the other hand, is made of a heavy, cowboy sort of leather, stamped with the Andrews brand. Its weight helps balance the rig—the opposite of top heavy—keeping the equipment where it should be.

Sam shapes each holster to fit an exact model of gun, in my case a Glock 19, and you’ll see this in the contours of the molded leather.

I ordered the regular-sized Monarch Shoulder Rig, but Sam also makes an XL, because “some customers can’t fit their shoulders through a doorway.” That comment made me chuckle.

Function

“Most shoulder holsters are designed by people who’ve never used one,” said Sam.

By contrast, he has years of law-enforcement experience and knows what functionality is needed. Even today, he tinkers with his designs, intent on finding what works best and what’s most comfortable. He told me this iterating makes the job fun. It also means he takes feedback from customers seriously.

One feature that grew out of this expert knowledge is the back strap, which steadies the rig and keeps it from swinging, particularly when you’re bending down or leaning forward. It’s a helpful feature that you won’t find on competitor’s rigs.

The holster is snug and grips the gun tightly even without the snap. In fact, there’s a specific screw outside the trigger guard that will let you adjust this tightness.

The holster snap is directional (this fact was even marked with a tag). That means you don’t snap it on straight down, but sort of at an angle, like you’re hooking over a latch. Just something to be aware of.

The holster also includes a belt strap, so you can take it off the shoulder rig and put it on your belt.

I’ve worn this rig a lot, for hours and hours. Since I don’t regularly carry a gun, I wore it during more mundane activities: making an omelette, doing pushups and pullups, watching Stranger Things, doing laundry, and driving to the shooting range. I’ve put in enough time to confidently say that this rig is very comfortable—I’ve even taken a nap wearing it. I love it.

There’s one functionality caveat I should warn you about. The barrel of the gun points horizontally behind you when you’re wearing this rig. It might even point slightly up, depending on how the straps are situated. This means the gun points at people during regular use. I don’t consider that a safety issue, but it made a few bystanders uncomfortable as I wore it.

Aesthetic

The Monarch design is beautifully simple: four leather straps held together by two layered cross-pieces and a bunch of thumb screws.

I will mention that when I first got the rig, the suede underbelly shed all over my shirt. Now that I’ve used it a bit, the shedding is gone.

Interchangeable pins in the shoulder straps make the rig adjustable, which is great. You can unscrew them with just a fingernail, but the thread angle is so shallow that I’ve never worried they might come loose. I changed my rig to make the top section (above the cross) longer and the lower section shorter. This shifted the cross more squarely between my shoulder blades (I’m all about the look).

And speaking of the look, Sam told me something for the sake of “sheer bragging.” A new Magnificent Seven movie came out September 23rd, and all the stars in it are wearing Andrews Leather. Also, two of the heroines in the upcoming Fast 8 movie will be wearing Monarch rigs—just like the one you see here. (As Sam told me this, he mentioned that Hollywood is king of last-minute changes, which “had me running around with my hair on fire.”)

In my mind, this connection with the movie business serves as a solid endorsement for the aesthetic.

BestLeather Conclusion

I love my Andrews Leather Monarch Shoulder Rig and Holster. It’s a fine piece of craftsmanship that looks awesome and works even better. Seriously. I’ve given you details on what I like with a couple very minor caveats. Overall, I think it’s a fantastic product.

Normally a link to the product page would be enough. In this case, I’ll also link you to Sam’s contact page. When you call, tell him J at BestLeather sent you.

October 11, 2016December 19, 2017

Sandast Dakota Shoulder Bag – $610

There are some bags that you just can’t take out in public without getting stopped at least once by a curious stranger. They’ll ask about the brand, where it was made, or just give a genuine compliment. Lately this bag has been the Dakota Shoulder Bag in Tan from Sandast, made by hand in a Los Angeles workshop.

About Sandast

Sandast is a Los Angeles company founded in 2006 and re-launched in 2010 with Chris Pak at the helm. Chris’ focus in re-launching was on quality and his efforts have paid off. With a host of accessories, wallets, belts, and bags Sandast has created a luxurious line of leather products that have received a lot of notice and praise from loyal customers. Sandast frequently uses the term “modern vintage” to describe their efforts to create leather pieces that have a uniquely vintage look with plenty of modern taste.

CONSTRUCTION & AESTHETIC

The Dakota Shoulder Bag is made with Horween leather in a rich, ruddy brown color. The leather has a nice layer of wax that brings out the colors and natural textures. The leather is quite striking in person, with a texture and bright color that you don’t see every day. The bag comes in three other colors besides tan – cognac, navy, and black. The bag is lined with Sandast’s signature plaid fabric, leaving the outer flap unlined with scalloped, burnished edges.

The hardware on the bag is quite impressive, and again marks the bag as something you don’t see every day. All the hardware is solid brass, including the lobster claw clasps that attach the padded, adjustable strap.

The bag zips with a partially attached Riri zipper that helps the bag hold its shape when carried. There is an inside pocket in the lining with a matching zipper reinforced with leather. The corners are reinforced with three brass rivets on each side.

FUNCTION

The Dakota Shoulder Bag measures in at around 14.5″ x 11″ x 4″. It’s the perfect size to carry a 13″ laptop, a notebooks, and everyday items. It’s only 4″ thick, which gives it slim profile that’s perfect for a bag with feminine accents like the scalloped edges and contrasting stitching. There’s a small zippered pocket inside, but other than that, it’s a very simple, functional bag.

CONCLUSION

The Dakota Shoulder Bag has quickly become my go-to bag– it’s dependable, practical, stylish, and incredibly high quality. This is one of about a half-dozen Sandast bags I’ve been able to see in-person, and I really can’t say enough good things about their products. Absolutely no corners are cut in the making of these bags, which are made right here in the USA (you can even watch the bags being made live via webcam). The Dakota is a bag that anyone would be proud to pass on to the next generation.

October 11, 2016December 19, 2017

Intrepid Bag Co. Leather Tech Roll – $139

Picture this scenario: You’re traveling with a cellphone (as most would), a laptop, tablet, camera, and perhaps a kindle. You open your briefcase to retrieve the said cord to charge the right device and the inside of your briefcase is a tangled knot of cords and wires. Even worse, you can’t locate where one cord begins and the other ends.

Well in our age of multiple devices and other digital equipment, a professional and functional solution is needed to save time and perhaps embarrassment.

Intrepid Bag Co. has just released a new set of leather accessories to complement their original designs. Among them is this beautiful full grain saddle leather tech roll.

Construction

The leather used in this piece is full grain USA saddle leather with a rich Mahogany color. The interior features a gray canvas lining with 3 cord slots, one middle pocket with a leather flap closure, and a large zippered pocket on the opposite end of the cord pockets. The entire piece is stitched with top quality nylon stitching.

The roll is secured with two straps that fasten into simple leather closures.

Rolled, the tech roll measures 7.5 inches long by 5 inches across and 1.5-4 inches deep (depending on how much you stuff in there). Unrolled it measures about 15 inches.

Having never really owned or used a tech roll before, I can say that at first I as hesitant to give it a fair shot in my daily carry as I usually like to pack as light and minimally as possible. But as I recalled SEVERAL incidents when traveling where I got slightly frustrated that I couldn’t find a cord or the cord I needed was wrapped around an article of clothing, so I decided to give it a fair chance.

One thing that was a little awkward was getting the cords in the pockets, but I imagine that in time it won’t be a big deal at all for the time and headaches you save on the road.

The function of the piece is to neatly organize cords, chargers, battery packs or external hard drives as well as a few other accessories like adapters or cleaning clothes. The interior’s 3 cord slots have slits in the bottom to allow the cord to feed through so it can be used without having to remove the whole cord.

The center pocket is large enough to hold a smart phone or thin battery or external hard drive with, again, a small slit in the bottom to allow a cord to feed through. As the zippered side pocket is all canvas, a good amount of small accessories can be stuffed in. However, the more stuff in the roll and pockets, the bulkier the piece is when rolled.

The mahogany saddle leather on the roll is very sturdy and already is breaking in nicely. As mentioned above, the roll does get bulky when crammed with a lot of stuff but what doesn’t? I really love the simplicity of the case and can tell it will age for many phone and device updates.

At $139, I feel the tech roll Is well worth the money considering the material used and the design. Anyone who is looking for a solution to organizing varies electronics while maintaining a look of elegance, professionalism, and function will be happy with this piece. Check it out -here-!

October 10, 2016December 19, 2017

Gray Bull Leather Co. Classic Leather Belt Review — $59

Update (March 2017): Sadly, Gray Bull Leather Co. is no longer in business. Check out our belts category for other options.

What happens when you take two university business students who are tired of poor quality products? You get a no-frills, tanky belt that looks great and should last a lifetime–for a reasonable price, at that. That’s exactly what you get from Gray Bull Leather Co. and their Classic Leather Belt.

Let’s start with the leather. It’s thick–10oz thick, to be exact. It’s also vegetable tanned leather, wax and grease stuffed and finished to make it weather resistant and sure to not color your pants. One thing you’ll typically see with belts is skiving, or thinning, at the fold point around the buckle. Not Gray Bull. The leather remains 10oz through the fold, and while this does lead to an occasionally unwieldy large piece of leather, it avoids removing strength from the most vulnerable part of the belt. Edges are gently burnished, smooth but not glossy.

The buckle is appropriately thick and sturdy as well. It’s nickel plated, though I’m not sure of the metal used below the plating. The roller should minimize wear on the belt over time (if that was an issue with a belt of this thickness). I didn’t love that the prong scratches the finish on the back side of the belt, but thankfully these marks won’t ever be visible. I’m sure some conditioner could remove the marks if desired, though the finish on the belt means conditioner shouldn’t be necessary otherwise.

The chestnut color I have here is great for just about any occasion, if the 1.5” width will fit through your belt loops. I like cognac/chestnut from a fashion perspective since it’s very versatile and works with most colors. The thickness makes for a very tanky look, and some nice jeans are probably the best match for the Classic Leather Belt. The look can also be changed by changing out the buckle if desired, compliments of the Chicago screws.

If you’re on the fence about a size, it’s might be best to favor rounding up than down. I choose the same length as an existing belt I own, but I think the thickness of the Classic Leather Belt made the fit a bit tighter.

The Classic Leather Belt is a simple leather belt, but it fulfills a need many products do not: doing its job well and doing it for a very long time. The founders of Gray Bull Leather Co. began the company with that goal in mind, and this belt fulfills it. There’s nothing fancy or excessive here, just a great belt at a great price. So far mine has endured a couple months of heavy use and shows no signs of quitting, and I recommend the Classic Leather Belt as a Buy It For Life product.

September 27, 2016December 19, 2017

Timberland Men’s Newmarket Boot Review

When fall approaches, there is no combination more classic or comfortable than chinos and boots. This combination works in both casual and professional settings and qualifies as a staple in any stylish man’s wardrobe. A contender for this autumn wardrobe staple is Timberland’s Newmarket Ankle Boot in brown full grain.

Timberland can trace its roots all the way back to 1920s Boston, where Nathan Schwartz began his career as an apprentice stitcher. Schwartz and his family grew the company and, in the 1950s introduced an injection-molding technique that allowed them to waterproof their boots. In 1973, they introduced the “Timberland” brand, and the rest is history. Timberland is now a huge clothing and footwear brand that operates stores worldwide. Their company headquarters are in Stratham, New Hampshire.

The Newmarket Ankle Boot is made with a full grain leather upper in a ruddy brown color. The leather is contrasted with a black woven cotton panel and a cream colored rubberized foam outsole that tapers from heel to toe. The outsole is attached with a differentiating tan cemented layer. The construction of these boots is nowhere comparable to that of a Goodyear welt or similarly constructed shoes. However, these land in the $100 dollar range, and the quality of the construction is proportionate.

The stylishness of these shoes is definitely their strong point. The moc toe design on a foam sole is very on-trend. The brown leather and black fabric details make the shoe very versatile. The Newmarkets feel at home in many situations, whether it be a casual night out or an average day at the office. They look smart without being overly formal, and complement a range of pants styles.

Out of the box, the boots have no issues with fit. They aren’t stiff or uncomfortable, and there’s no real break-in period. They have no padding along the ankle, but the top of the uppers are mostly fabric and do not rub or become sensitive.

The laces have four eyelets followed by two hooks that continue up the tongue of the boot. The flat-woven laces are somewhat difficult to thread through this hardware. I ended up changing the laces to a simpler round lace because the flat laces took too long to tie.

The Timberland Newmarket Ankle Boots are a comfortable, stylish buy, and at $100, the price is right (even less on Amazon for certain sizes). Definitely plan to change the laces to a thinner, rounder type that will fit the hardware better. They won’t last you forever, but you’ll get several seasons out of them and look great doing it.

September 26, 2016December 19, 2017

J. Ryan & Co Leather Shaving Strop Review

All strops are not created equal. As a matter of fact, I have heard countless times throughout my years in the wet shaving and barbering industry that a shaver’s strop is quite irrelevant, and “the cheaper the better”—a partial truth, to be sure, because who doesn’t like to get good quality products for good prices? In some cases, individuals will have gone out and found a quality vintage or used strop for a decent price, but with the recent explosion in wet shaving paraphernalia, this antique find is becoming harder and harder to acquire. Often times, someone coming into the wide and wonderful world of wet shaving or professional barbering will do a quick google search or stop by their local antique store only to be disappointed with cheap “pleather” products, or antique leather so dried out or heavily used that the tool would work better on display in a museum rather than in a washroom or on a barbering chair. Let it be known that a strop has the ability to either refresh your blade upon every pass, or roll the edge to a “perfect dull” with every pass. Therefore, I reiterate—all strops are not created equal.

Click here to buy.

There are quite a few companies and artisans currently producing leather strops, many of which don’t have any experience professionally stropping an actual razor or even shaving with a straight razor, and this shows in the quality of their strop. No fault on the character or ethos of the company, they simply don’t know what is required of a strop that will last this lifetime, and maybe many more! A few months ago, I was checking out at a leather strop used by many of the wet shaving enthusiasts, and I was sorely disappointed with the quality of the product compared to the price. I thought, “perhaps the golden era of wet shaving products is over?” Then something quite wonderful happened—I received a J. Ryan & Co. strop.

Let me give you a little back story here. I run a small wet shaving site where I offer straight razor restorations and custom shaving brushes for those looking to get into artisan wet shaving products. I am also a consultant and marketing specialist for a large barber supply company which allows me to travel to barbershops all over the U.S., many of which ask me to hone their razors and teach them new techniques for blade maintenance and general straight edge practice. Over the past few years, I have honed and stropped thousands of razors of all various shapes, sizes, and quality. This means I have also used quite a few different strops. When the crew at BestLeather.org sent me the J. Ryan & Co. strop to review, I immediately knew that this strop was different than others—it wasn’t just a tool, it was clearly an artwork.

I received the strop folded in a light-weight linen drawstring bag, and when loosened the twine, I was hit with that pungent, quality leather smell we have all grown to love so very, very much. At this point, I knew nothing of this product other than it came from a gentleman who makes strops. I knew nothing of the leather, nothing of the hardware, the width, length, etc…this was all a surprise for me, and boy was I surprised! Most leather strops on the market come in general width sizes with the most common sizes sitting somewhere between 1.5” to 2” wide. This particular strop I received boasts an impressive 3” width with an overall length of 30”, 17” of which is the proper stropping interval. When I pulled the strop out of the bag, I was immediately impressed with this behemoth’s overall size. The length and width are certainly not uncommon in the world of strops, but it does my heart well to see such a quality strop in this size.

Now, when it comes to strops, the leather quality either makes or breaks the product. I have come across other strops that happened to be this size or even bigger, but each strop I have seen that can even be compared to its size lacks the leather quality necessary to be considered a viable straight edge tool. Quality leather is obviously not cheap, so crafters will often use cheaper leather in order to offset the cost of the strop’s length and width in order to keep the product within a certain price range. Not so with the crew at J. Ryan & Co. In fact, where most crafters will only use a single length of leather coupled with a single length of linen or cotton, the crafters at J. Ryan & Co. decided to use finest Horween leathers for all of it’s leather components. For those of you familiar with the different parts of a strop, you are already aware the purpose each side serves. For those of you wondering why one length of leather is not good enough, let me take a moment to elaborate a little on strop maintenance—in order to keep this as a brief introduction, lets refer to each side as the light side (secondary length) and the heavy side (main body).

The light side of a strop serves two purposes. (1) to remove any burrs or rust on the edge of the blade in order to prepare the edge for a good “refreshing,” and (2) to warm the edge’s metal by means of friction in order to allow the heavy side to properly refreshen the blade. This obviously means that the heavy side is specifically for refreshing the blade in a quicker and more efficient amount of time than if you were to simply use the lighter side. Now that this is finished, lets get back to the review!

The main body is crafted from Horsehide Chromexcel in what I am guessing is in 6-7 oz. leather, which certainly makes for an impressive main strop body given its heavy draw. The main body on the strop I received is beautifully dyed in rich burgundy, which only adds to the discerning character of this piece. Where other crafters utilize a length of linen or even cotton for the second part of the strop body, the crew at J. Ryan & Co. decided to trash the idea of cloth all together and dedicate this strop as a full leather product—something which resembles the quality strops of yesteryear, and quite a breath of fresh air for myself, if I might add. This lighter side utilizes Horween’s Snuffed Suede leather in what I am guessing is 4-5 oz. leather instead of a cloth substitute. A wise choice, in my opinion. It looks as though the suede side is dyed at the tannery in a stonewashed gray, something which compliments the burgundy wonderfully.

Moving onto the rest of the strop, I am thoroughly impressed with the handles and hanging component J. Ryan & Co. included within this product. Lets start from the top and move down—first, the hanging component of the strop serves two purposes. (1) It attaches the hardware required to hang the strop, and (2) it binds both the light and heavy lengths together. This component feels like something you would find on a horse’s saddle—its rigid and unmovable! It feels and looks like leather, but its solid and sturdy like a hard material—a fantastic quality to have for this component! Because of it’s inherent purpose, this part of the strop usually always go out first. The constant wear on this “hinge” usually results in the strop falling apart from the top down, but I don’t see that happening with this component anytime soon. The handles of the strop are even more ridged and durable, as it is comprised of 3 layers of horsehide which have been bonded and stitched together. The handles are then hand beveled and rounded, then stained to match the rest of the strop and finished with beeswax for a high sheen.

J. Ryan & Co. didn’t just stop with quality leather, they also ensured their product was adorned with quality hardware as well—solid brass. The hanging component is a solid brass bolt snap accompanied with a brass ring. This allows the shaver to comfortably use the hanging component with large hooks and small “clip on” surfaces alike. Should something catastrophic ever happen (dog chew toy, *cough* *cough*), take heart knowing that the lengths are bound together by solid brass Chicago Screws, so if you do need to change one length or another, you are able to do so with ease and more importantly, without having to purchase another strop.

Lastly, I want to touch on what I think is one of the coolest parts of the strop—the logo. The stamp is deeply embossed in the leather handles and the strop lengths, which offers 4 opportunities to gander at this beautiful creation! Inspired by medieval artistry, the stamp exhibits a coat-of-arms and a bold font which scream “simplistic, yet exquisitely refined.” I recently returned home after a stint in Scotland, and the stamp artistry ushers me back to the castles I visited and the “old world feel” associated with 14th and 15th century Europe. No joke, when I look at this strop, it makes me want to go back to Scotland. There is certainly something to be said about that which invokes such emotions and memories.

Now with the general information of the strop covered, let’s move on to my experience with it! When I received the strop, it was definitely new. So new in fact, that it was actually quite difficult to use the main body of the strop. This is of no fault to J. Ryan & Co., and really is not a fault at all. Good quality leather takes time to break in, especially with the main body sitting somewhere in the 6-7 oz. range! There are sturdy bags made with that kind of leather! It should be noted that the lighter side has been comfortable since day one, which once again is of no fault, rather the result of lighter leather. Before touching pen to paper with my thoughts on this strop, I wanted to spend at least a month with it. In one months time, I had the opportunity to use this strop every singe day, multiple times a day. I was able to strop somewhere around 50 razors with it, and used it for my personal razors every morning. Everyone has a specific way they like to strop, so I am not even going to touch on that theme here, but I will say that I stropped each razor approximately with 60 passes on the lighter length and 30 passes on the heavy length, so I have come to know this strop fairly well in such a short amount of time.

I was not taught to use a stropping a blade on brand new Horsehide Chromexcel so that actually took a little getting use to. After a week, the leather finally started to break in and I was able to get an actual feel for what this strop was going to perform like. After two weeks, I actually got excited to use the strop, and at the end of the second week, I decided to perform a test. I took my favorite strop that I have been using for the last three years and compared it to the J. Ryan & Co. strop that I had been using for 2 weeks. I used the same razor, with the same number of passes, and conclude that the J. Ryan & Co. strop was more comfortable, and seemed to polish the edge of the razor so much better than my previous strop. I credit most of this to the lighter Horween Snuffed Suede leather length instead of a linen length, however, these can be no doubt the main body of the strop plays a huge (if not the primary) role in refreshing the edge. For those curious, I used a Wade & Butcher true-wedge for this test, but most often used a late 1890’s H.G. Long & Co. french tip in quarter-hollow—my every day straight edge.

One unfortunate thing about strops is that no matter how gorgeously beautiful they happen to be, you will inevitably cut gouges and slivers out of the leather over time. When you are performing thousands of passes with an instrument so sharp it could cut hair just by lightly passing the edge over the center, it is inevitable that you will damage the leather. After the first week, I cut a sliver in the top of the main length and nearly cried out of disappointment. After another week, you can barely tell that there was a sliver cut in at all, and I imagine than after another month or two, it will be completely gone. The Chromexcel leather was a grand choice for the main body, as my little mishap proves that minor scratches and slivers can be buffed out through further use.

A month into using the strop, I couldn’t be happier. I have taken it to barber shops all across Washington state and Idaho within the past few weeks and have received many compliments over what an amazing tool this is. There is one thing that I feel obliged to include, not because it’s particularly an issue, rather because I would feel somewhat guilty if I had not offered some sort of criticism in a review. When I pulled the strop out of the bag on the first day, I noticed that the stamp on the top of the main length was slightly crooked. I thought perhaps it was an optical illusion of some sort since it is ever so slight, but after utilizing a ruler, I found that the stamp was off ever so slightly. Does this effect anything concerning the function or durability of the strop? Certainly not! However, given the nature of this luxurious item, I feel obliged to include it within the review, but I want to ensure the reader knows that this does not alter my opinion on the quality of the product.

Let’s talk pricing. First, this is a difficult thing to compare. There really are no other strops on the market aiming to compete with the quality of this strop. From my knowledge, save for a few long term, low-quantity artisans, there isn’t really a directly related strop to fairly compare this with. It would be like me trying to compare a McLaren with a Kia. Sure, both will get you places, but one will probably do it in style and efficiency, and I’m not talking about the Sportage! (Disclaimer: I own a Sportage…don’t you even dare give me a hard time) At $200, this strop is about twice as much as other strops in the market, but I will say that it is over twice the quality as well. The J. Ryan & Co. strop is for the discerning gentleman’s washroom, and for the professional barber who sees multiple heads a day. This is a strop for the person committed to wet-shaving or professional barbering who doesn’t want to have to buy another strop again, and who wants the absolute best quality product, which gives the absolute best quality results for their razors. You spent $400 on your favorite razor, so why wouldn’t you spend the money on a piece of practical art which will last the rest of your life? Don’t just pass down that razor collection of yours, pass down this J. Ryan & Co. strop as well. And remember, all strops are not created equal.

September 26, 2016December 19, 2017

Thorogood Boots 1892 Tomahawk – $284

The story of Thorogood Boots starts with Albert Weinbrenner, the son of a German immigrant and cobbler. Albert began his apprenticeship at age 13 working for his father. By his early 20s, in his spare time, Albert was designing work boots specifically for the working men of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. In 1892, at the age of 27, Albert started his own cobbler business with partner Joseph Pfeifer.

Weinbrenner and Pfeifer quickly became known for their “jobber” boot. Today Weinbrenner Shoe Company is still based in Wisconsin and employs over three hundred people in the local area. Many of the boots they produce are sold under the Thorogood brand. Today we will be checking out the Tomahawk Boots in Loden Green.

ABOUT THE 1892 WISCONSIN COLLECTION

Thorogood has become a staple in the workwear industry, but several years ago they debuted their 1892 Wisconsin Collection aimed for the casual wearer who wants the durability of a work boot.

The Tomahawk Boots were debuted in mid-2016 as part of this 1892 Collection, which was introduced as a throwback to some of the original work boots designed for the hardworking outdoorsmen of turn-of-the-century Wisconsin.

Each boot from the 1892 Collection is made with Horween’s Chromexcel Leather, constructed with a goodyear welt and nitrile cork sole. Each series is inspired by a different “jobber”: farmers, roofers, trappers, and more. We’ve reviewed two other boots from the 1892 Collection: the Dodgevilles and the Portage CXL Roofer Boots.

The Tomahawk uppers are built with Horween’s Chromexcel leather in their Loden green color. This is a beautiful pull-up leather that still allows you to see some of the natural textures of the leather. (You can read a bit more about Chromexcel leather in our interview with Horween here.) Because CXL leather has a high oil and wax content, it scuffs and scratches easily. These marks are easily buffed out if you prefer, but I love the patina that Chromexcel gains with age.

The boots are Goodyear welted onto a Vibram sole. They have a very long lace bed and come up well above the ankles, tapering upward. I occasionally fold the tops down depending on what I’m wearing, and usually stop lacing them at the second peg.

The Tomahawk boots are considerably simpler than the rest of the boots in the 1892 Wisconsin Collection. They have a plain toe and the only embellishments are the double and triple stitching on the panels of the upper. The boots are unlined and thus show some undyed leather along the seams of the quarter and the counter. There’s a rectangular tag on the tongue that matches this color, which adds to the vintage look of the boots.

The Tomahawks are made on a men’s #60 last and have a thick rubber sole. However, their simpler design lends itself well to a crossover boot as Thorogood does not make any casual boots on a women’s last. There are sizes available from 5-14, so it’s likely that a female wearer could find the right size. They do run a little on the larger side; I would say about half a size big. I usually wear a size 9.5-10 and got the size 9, which fits well even with thick socks.

These boots definitely take some time to break in, as the thick, unlined leather needs some time to soften and form to your foot. I started out by wearing them for an hour or two around the house, and slowly worked my way up to a full day’s wear. Don’t expect to immediately wear them out for a whole day, or the back of your foot will regret it!

The Thorogood 1892 Tomahawk Boots are an excellent choice for both men and women, especially if you’re looking for something a little different than the usual brown boot. They’re American-made with some of the best leather around, and very reasonably priced at $284. These are boots that will last you a decade or more and are easily repairable. Check them out on the Thorogood website or purchase them online.

September 25, 2016December 19, 2017

KC Co. Simple Wallet Review

Throughout my time collecting and using various wallets, I’ve always come back to front pocket wallets. In this review, I’ll focus on the Simple Wallet made by KC CO. KC CO is a small leather company hailing from Kansas City, Missouri. They specialize in handcrafted leather goods with modern touches. A mantra of the company is “quality through simplicity” in which they source the best materials and construct products with the essentials and less of what we don’t need.

The Simple Wallet is crafted out of four pieces of vegetable tanned leather. I’m led to believe it is from Hermann Oak, as the company states that their leather is sourced from a world-class midwestern tannery in operation since the 1800s. The wallet comes saddle-stitched with white thread and burnished edges finished with beeswax. Each leather piece is cut by hand without the use of templates. The wallet is finished with a discreet logo impression just below the inside of the front pocket leather piece. It is finely finished and ready to receive the patina the owner puts on it. The wallet is also available in black, as well as a three pocket version which removes the back strap. The size of the wallet allows for front pocket carry with little printing. Empty, the wallet weighs in at about 35 grams.

As with most minimalist wallets, a huge priority is given to ease of access for a small number of items. The wallet accomplishes this task with style. The front pocket is useful for your most used cards such as credit cards and a driver’s license. I carry 2-3 cards here. The middle pocket is for the extras, such as insurance cards and a hunting license. The company lists the back strap as for cards or for twice folded cash. I’ve carried U.S. dollars and Euros without worrying about the retention, I just would caution one about overstretching the piece.

The finishing on this piece is understated. Attention was paid to detail with the saddle-stitching, and the burnishing has held up well in my many months of use. A special The beauty of vegetable-tanned leather is that whatever elements or abrasions the product is exposed to could affect the patina formation. My wallet has been exposed to rain, sun, and constant touching of hands, which transfers oils onto the leather. In what began as a light, nearly pink color has darkened to a nice caramel brown color. The thread is also slightly subject to denim transfer, but not as much as thread made from other materials.

The KC CO Simple wallet feels right at home among quality front pocket wallets. The price point makes it relative to other handmade leather goods. I also own one of their belts as well as a key fob, which is a top-notch product that can be seen in retail stores such as the Baldwin Co. Denim stores which specialize in selvage denim pieces. After thorough use of this wallet, I can say with confidence that it is built to last.

September 25, 2016December 19, 2017

Moore and Giles Benedict Bison Weekend Bag Review — $925

Man, this is a dang good-looking bag.

It’s the Moore and Giles Benedict Weekend Bag. I’ve owned it for about four weeks now. It has accompanied me on a 4-day and a 5-day trip. So far I’m loving it.

The leather itself has such a cool feel—soft, yet textured. The bag’s design scores high marks for style. It’s also spacious and durable. This is certainly one of the most impressive leather products I’ve seen in a while.

Moore and Giles was founded in 1933 during the heart of the Great Depression. They’re headquartered at Forest, Virginia. They’ve posted some impressive videos on their site that show the leathermaking process and give you a good idea of their concern for quality.

On their site, they list kindness among their key values. Maybe it’s the Buddhist in me, but that goes a long way in my book.

They’re also environmentally conscious. They point out that hides are a byproduct of food sources, so they take what would essentially be a waste product and transform it into luxury bags and other leather goods. It’s a pretty cool take on sustainability.

The Benedict Weekend Bag is constructed from nubuck leather.

Nubuck is an older word that likely comes from “new buck(skin).” Craftsmen create this type of top-grain leather by sanding off the upper (outside) hair-cell layer of the hide. This leaves a luxurious nap of short protein fibers with a soft, velvet-like surface (similar to suede). This buffing smooths out blemishes and makes the leather more capable of absorbing dyes and finishes, which provides for more consistent color across the surface. Because it’s not a full-grain leather, that means some of the scratches and uniqueness of the original hide can be lost, but I found my Benedict to still have tons of character, which you’ll see in the pictures.

The nubuck process is similar to but generally more expensive than crafting suede. It results in a product that’s thicker, stronger, and more resistant to wear, yet still soft to the touch. It can also mean the product is not as resistant to scratches, but I haven’t had any problems with my Benedict bag, no more than other leather products I own.

I upgraded to the Benedict wanting something for longer trips, and it more than met my needs. I packed for a 5-day business trip (including 3 pairs of shoes), and everything fit nicely. It’s big. It also has clasps on each end which you can release to give yourself more room. Then when you clip them back down, the bag becomes the perfect size for shorter trips. I love this adjustability.

The handles are thick and sturdy and feel like they could heft a weight set inside. The shoulder strap is hearty too, and it’s layered for comfort when carrying a heavy load.

The interior walls are lined with pockets in a variety of sizes. I’ve found other bags with pockets that are too big to be useful, but these are just right. I put my toiletries and other accoutrements in them for quick access. It also comes with a gift bag, a drawstring you can put the Benedict inside, which I think makes the perfect travel laundry bag.

The bottom of the bag has a stiff footing that gives some stability to whatever you pack in it. When you lug the bag by the handles, this footing keeps it from flopping and bending so much, which means it’s easier to carry. This also adds to the aesthetic—the Benedict always looks its best.

I haven’t had any troubles keeping mine clean. If yours does need cleaning, Moore and Giles recommends using mild soap and water with a cotton cloth. But it’s recommended to just let stains work themselves out with use.

Aesthetic

As far as style goes, this bag is versatile enough to fit with boots and jeans or a business jacket.

The interior is lined with an interesting textile. I suspect it’s a synthetic fabric, maybe vinyl. If so, it should be water and stain resistant and durable against wear (though I haven’t purposefully stained it). It feels papery, is somewhat stiff, and makes a ruffling sound when you move it. It adds body and structure to the bag, so when you pull it open it stays open, and when it’s empty it still stands upright. This makes packing a breeze—it’s easy to access and work with. This also makes it a great container for holding your stuff once you arrive—and not just in transit.

The leather has distinct lines running through it. These vary in size and direction, giving the bag a crude and natural feel. It also means that your bag will have a unique fingerprint.

I ordered the Nubuck Bison Chocolate variation, but Moore and Giles has a variety of colors and finishes. (To find them, just type “Benedict” into the search bar on their site.)

Accessories Case

I also got a Moore and Giles Accessories Case which runs at $180. When it’s in your hand, you get a strong sense of its quality workmanship. Like the bag, it’s made with American bison nubuck leather. It is soft to the touch on the outside. The inside is lined with a plush wool, ideal for protecting whatever valuables you want safe from scratches (a watch, for example). For you fishers out there, the wool also makes an ideal surface for hooking barbless flies into. I’m sure there are a variety of other uses you could find for this case too.

The Moore and Giles Benedict Weekend Bag is a fashionable leather piece. The craftsmanship is astounding. Its hardy structure means it’ll outlast competing bags. And its elegant design will draw compliments.

It’s an investment with a high price point, but, especially for a person who travels to earn, it promises a high-value return. I, personally, have been super impressed.

September 24, 2016May 9, 2020

Danner Mountain Pass Boots – $350

The Danner Mountain Pass Boots, made with Horween’s Rio Latigo Leather.

Bootmaker Charles Danner founded the Danner Boot Manufacturing Company in 1932, well into the depths of the Great Depression. When Danner discovered the booming logging trade in the Pacific Northwest in 1936, he moved his company to Portland, Oregon, where outdoorsman quickly began to appreciate the quality and durability of his boots, particularly their Shipyard Boot. The company continued to grow, and in the 1960s began to produce hiking boots that quickly became beloved in the outdoor community. Danner is now a global brand, and continues to produce about a third of their footwear line in Portland, Oregon. The product line now includes outdoor, work, and casual footwear for men and women.

The Mountain Pass uppers are made with Horween’s Rio Latigo leather, a full-grain, combination-tanned leather that is finished with pigment-free aniline dye that allows the natural texture of the leather to come through. You can see with these boots that they have a very natural color with a waxy finish. This full-grain leather is very hardy and keeps a uniform color.

The boot is lined with water-repellant Dri-Lex fabric and fastened onto an ever-trusty Vibram outsole. They have The shoe is constructed with a stitch down method, which means that the leather of the upper is turned outwards and stitched and cemented to the outsole. This allows the shoe to be lighter and more flexible, though not perfectly waterproof, but the boots’ lining and finish do a great job of keeping your feet dry and protected.

MOUNTAIN PASS VS. MOUNTAIN LIGHT

When deciding on a pair of Danner boots, there are a few important things to consider. The Mountain Pass boots are a modernized version of the Mountain Light line that was debuted in the 1970s, and there are several important differences that potential buyers should be aware of. One factor that must be taken into consideration is the shank construction. The Mountain Pass has a bi-fit board construction instead of the fiberglass shank built into Danner’s older Mountain Light line. This means that these Mountain Pass boots (the subject of this review) cannot be resoled. However, the Mountain Pass boots are significantly lighter (about 25%!) and more flexible than the Mountain Light line. The Mountain Pass boots also have a padded collar for ankle comfort, while the Mountain Light Boots have a lower ankle with little padding.

The Mountain Pass line are extremely strong and durable boots, but once they are worn through, you will have to buy a new pair. This is definitely something to consider and it absolutely comes down to your boot weight preference and how much you plan to use your boots each season.

These boots are very reminiscent of classic 1970s hiking boots, with their lace-to-toe construction, metal eyelets, and solid leather uppers. Of course, these days it’s almost impossible to mention Danner boots without bringing up the 2014 film Wild, which depicted hiker Cheryl Strayed hiking the Pacific Crest Trail in 1995 in her trusty, red-laced Danner Mountain Lights. While these boots certainly experienced a resurgence in popualrity because of this movie, they have been a classic among backpackers for more than three decades.

The Mountain Pass boots are absolutely constructed with hikers in mind, but this look has been co-opted by Portlanders, Seattleites and other outdoorsy Pacific Northwesters who now wear them on a daily basis. The wide, braided-lace toe has become a popular look, so these boots can perform double duty as hiking boots as well as casual footwear in unpredictable Northwest weather.

The Danner Mountain Pass boots are a lightweight, modern update on the classic hiking boot. Made in the USA with gorgeous Horween leather, these boots will be the perfect companion and reasonably priced.

September 23, 2016December 19, 2017

Aunts and Uncles Networker Messenger Bag Review

Aunts and Uncles has been on the radar for quite some time now. After numerous reader requests to review items from this quirky, stylish German brand, we have finally been able to check out one of their men’s satchels. Today I will be reviewing The Networker, which is a sleek, modern men’s satchel from the Workmates collection.

Aunts and Uncles is a German company that makes bags, backpacks, and luggage for men and women. The bags are designed at their headquarters in the Lower Rhine region of Germany and made in factories in India and Italy with vegetable tanned leather. Aunts and Uncles is a well-known brand in Europe, but is just beginning to make its way to the American market. Some of their bags are a bit hard to find in US stores, but a few of their collections are starting to pop up in some cities.

The Networker messenger bag is part of the “Workmates” collection, which is designed to be a casual, functional line of work bags with useful compartments and versatile materials. The collection is made with corrected-grain vegetable tanned buffalo leather.

The Networker has a vertical satchel design, with a long flap that has a magnetic closure. The matching black buckles are cosmetic only. The bag has an adjustable leather strap backed with cotton. It is a small bag at 9” wide, 12.5” tall, and about 3.5” thick. It fits an iPad or similar tablet and everyday necessities.

The bag is lined with a denim look alike and uses carefully curated vegetable tanned buffalo leather for pockets interior and exterior. The Networker is extremely versatile, great for coffee shops and college classes. It has ample storage for small classroom accessories and charger space. This bag is also properly sized for my bike ride to and from college classes.

The Networker has a modern, sleek look, with a rustic flair. The bag comes in black and brown leather, with matching colored hardware. The vertical satchel construction means that although the bag is smaller, it does not look especially feminine. In fact, I think this is a great satchel size for men who like to keep it minimal and sleek. It fits just the right amount of accessories in a small, functional, and stylish package.

The Aunts and Uncles Networker Bag is a professional, modern bag that’s great for when you need to carry around more than just your phone and wallet. It doesn’t use the highest quality leather or materials, but the materials are appropriate for the price. Again, Aunts and Uncles Bags can be a bit difficult to come by in the United States, so I’ve rounded up a few places the Networker is available for sale internationally.

The Networker for sale in Canada https://unluggage.com/collections/aunts-uncles/products/aunts-uncles-workmates-networker-messenger-bag-1

The Networker for sale in the UK http://www.myleatherbag.co.uk/leather-bag-brands/aunts-uncles/aunts-and-uncles-networker-black-leather-medium-messenger-bag-post-bag.html

The Networker for sale in Germany http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/4771982_-networker-aunts-uncles.html

The Aunts and Uncles informational listing in German http://www.auntsanduncles.de/kollektionen/kollektionen/taschen/workmates#networker

September 22, 2016December 19, 2017

Bidinis Simone Purse – $298

When I was in college, I purchased a $40 women’s briefcase from Target that had black crocodile print faux leather and silver toned hardware. I loved that it was modern but looked appropriate in a professional setting. However, that bag started falling apart at the seams and handles within two months of use, and sadly I had to throw it away long before the semester ended. So I was quite excited when I got the chance to review the very similar Bidinis Simone Briefcase, made with genuine leather and much better craftsmanship.

ABOUT BIDINIS

Bidinis was started by Italian founder and creative director Caterina Bidini. Caterina is creative and passionate and aims to bring designer quality at accessible prices. The brand is now based in Sydney and all of their bags are made in Italy with Italian leather. Bidinis offers luxury bags in bright colors and modern designs, as well as classic styles for both men and women.

CONSTRUCTION & AESTHETIC

The Simone Briefcase is made with genuine leather from Italy in a crocodile print. The leather is lined with black fabric and backed to create flexible yet firm sides to the structured briefcase. It has a wide mouth opening with a silver toned zipper and matching leather pull.

The straps have a drop length of about 6 inches, meaning it’s best to carry handheld as opposed to over the shoulder. It does come with a matching strap that attaches to the handle hardware with simple snap clips. The bottom of the bag is protected with studs, helping it stand upright and maintain its professional look.

The bag comes with a silver toned pendant with the Bidinis logo on a leather strap, which adds some metallic shine without being gaudy. The bag itself balances boldness and elegance very well.

FUNCTION

The Simone Briefcase measures in at around 15″ x 15″ x 5.5″ and tapers just slightly at the top. I can fit my 13″ Macbook Pro in there, although it is a little too snug if I have my Macbook in its sleeve. This would best suit a smaller, lighter airbook or tablet instead of a full sized laptop. Its lighter build and smaller straps aren’t conducive to hauling around heavy electronics and chargers. There are two pockets on the inside, one zippered for safekeeping. There is also a small, streamlined pouch at the front of the bag that’s perfect for snugly storing your phone for quick access. This feature is a trend that I’ve been noticing pop up in a few ladies’ bags, and I absolutely love it. Unzipping a bag and fishing around for your phone between papers and purse items quickly becomes a pain, and this makes it so much easier.

CONCLUSION

The Bidinis Simone Briefcase is a beautiful, classic choice for working women who want something professional yet stylish. The Simone Briefcase is the perfect upgrade from that college bag I mentioned earlier. It has held up perfectly after several months of use, and shows no sign of slowing down. It’s an excellent investment for a professional wardrobe.

September 18, 2016December 19, 2017

J Michael Ashland Men’s Classic Bifold Review – $150

Wallets are part of people’s everyday carry, also referred to as ‘EDC’. Wallets are smothered, folded, squished, dropped…the list goes on. The vast amount of options when on the hunt for a new quality wallet can seem daunting. After using the J Michael Men’s Classic Bifold for quite some time, it can certainly be added to the tier of leather goods considered to be ‘bespoke handmade,’ and rightly so. Read on to find out some of the characteristics that make this bifold wallet a serious option for your next quality leather goods purchase.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-7 — For those curious about the color, my example was a deep, rich, dark brown.

ABOUT J MICHAEL ASHLAND

J Michael is a leathersmith with a loyal following, working out of a private shop in Oregon. “As a leathersmith, I have been making knives and leather carry goods since I was a kid.” Conversing personally with Mr. J Michael over email, I can say that he is a pleasure to chat with. If you have any questions at all for him regarding leather crafting or just about his goods in general, be sure to shoot him an email. Be sure to check out his website to learn general facts about him and his craft.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-2 — Customers are greeted with classy and precise packaging–just like the wallet itself.

CONSTRUCTION

The construction of this bifold is immaculate and masterfully done with premium Horween Chromexcel horse leather, which is slightly stronger and more scratch resistant than the cow variant. The outside holes were punched smaller, offering better water protection. The thickness of the individual parts of leather are considered, and hand skived to perfection. The hand-stitch work is about as perfect as it gets, with special attention to even the slightest detail. Even the thread itself was picked based upon its strength-oriented characteristics. No complaints here, as this is truly a work of art.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-5 — Looking closely at the hand stitching and edge work; it is evident just how masterfully crafted this wallet is.

FUNCTIONALITY

One caveat I have with this wallet is the size. It certainly holds a ton of cards and cash with ease, but it is just a tad bulky in its overall design. This is one of those things that some customers may not experience, but it is worth mentioning. Due to the premium materials and construction, it could seem a little thicker to some people. Nevertheless, it does a great job of holding at least 12 cards and a good amount of cash (this was what my daily carry consisted of) and will impress most who are used to a bifold design. The dimensions are: 3 5/8” x 4 ½” x 3/8” thick when empty.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-6 — J Michael has designed this bifold to retain its shape tremendously well. No awkward shaping of the wallet, even when full of lots of cards and cash.

AESTHETIC

The aesthetic of this bifold is classic and timeless. When you imagine a traditional bifold style wallet, this is what you get. J Michael has elevated the design a bit with the premium materials and construction. As previously mention, the full-grain horse-hide leather is sourced from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL. Check out Horween’s website for more information about their leathers.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-4 — Classic, timeless, and quality. Three words that sum up the design of the J Michael Men’s Classic Bifold perfectly.

CONCLUSION

If you are searching for a serious upgrade for yourself or someone you know, this wallet will not disappoint. J Michael Ashland obviously puts a considerable amount of thought and precise craftsmanship into his goods, and its hard to put a price on something like that. While the price is certainly higher than your average bifold style wallet, the J Michael Men’s Bifold Wallet will make its new owner proud to hold onto something quite special for a long long time. Be sure to check out J Michael’s other beautiful leather goods over at his website, such as the black variant of this wallet.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-1 — The beautiful box with J Michael’s simple yet rememberable logo.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-8 — The wallet after a few weeks of use.

jmichaelashland-mensleatherbifold-review-2-1 — The wallet holding 10 cards (the rest are in the hidden slots) and 12 bills of cash, with some room to spare.

September 12, 2016December 19, 2017

Hawkmoth Leather Co Propeller Review – £225

“It evokes to an age of fedora wearing explorers in far away places, where they would arrive at their destinations by a plane that is powered by a propeller.”

Inspired by historical figures such as Ernest Hemingway and Lawrence of Arabia, and “appealing to the Indiana Jones in all of us,” the Hawkmoth Propeller is a one-of-a-kind belt, a beautiful work of art skillfully crafted with fine and rare materials.

ABOUT Hawkmoth Leather Co.

It’s been my great pleasure to get to know Hawkmoth Leather Co’s Tom Sanderson over the last few months. Located in the heart of Sussex, England, Tom designs and handcrafts Hawkmoth’s belts himself between working on costumes for major movie productions.

Tom has a simple goal for Hawkmoth: using traditional techniques of leatherworking, make the most high quality leather products he possibly can out of the best materials he can get his hands on. With one of the most creative minds I’ve met, Tom draws inspiration from Al Stohlman, one of leathercraft’s pioneers, as well as “a mixture of British and European military leather work, with a sprinkling of the American wild west and a touch of the Indian subcontinent.”

Each Hawkmoth belt comes packaged in a handmade canvas case with a leather handle, stamped with the Hawkmoth Death’s Head insignia. This same insignia adorns one end of the belt, alongside two other signature stamps–the letter R representing the year 2016, and two windmills to represent Sussex.

CONSTRUCTION

We speak often of the rarity of vegetable tanned leather here at BestLeather, but far rarer still is the type of leather used for The Propeller: oak bark tan. Vegetable tanning is a lengthy process that takes around two months, but this pales in comparison to the year-long tanning oak bark leather goes through. It’s said to exceed veg-tan leather for durability and longevity, and only a small handful of long-running tanneries still produce this rare leather.

Once the leather arrives at Hawkmoth, The Propeller is entirely made by hand. It’s saddle stitched with thick linen thread that is waxed in-house using local organic bees wax. Large rivets are used for reinforcement. Dying is also done by hand over the course of a few days. The Propeller is overall expertly built. Edging, burnishing, stitching etc. is all well done and shows the work of a very skilled artisan. As with any handmade item, minor imperfections can be found but they’re strictly cosmetic and add to the individual personality of the belt.

I noticed that, instead of folding the leather over the buckle and sewing it shut, Hawkmoth uses a small separate piece of leather folded over and sewn such that it’s pinching down on the end of the strap. I thought this was an interesting choice, and inquired Tom about it. This is an enhancement in several ways: it allows the buckle to lie even within the thickness of the belt, ensures the buckle doesn’t rub on threads, and prevents the threads from being positioned in a high-strain position. This is a very impressive level of attention to construction detail.

FUNCTION

The Propeller is a ranger style belt with a two-piece buckle, combined into an asymmetrical design you’re unlikely to see elsewhere. While ranger belts aren’t too uncommon, a two-piece buckle is a harder find today. Reminiscent of Civil War memorabilia, this bronze buckle is believed to be an old/new stock item from WWII (though, despite efforts by Hawkmoth and myself, we’ve yet to find documentation of its origins. Any leads would be appreciated!). Hawkmoth has only managed to procure a handful, furthering the rare and unique aspect of the Propeller.

The two piece buckle is used by slipping the small end horizontally through the large end and then rotating it flat into place. It takes getting used to, but eventually becomes as natural as coupling a typical pronged belt. A smaller standard buckle sits to one side of the main buckle to give a short range of length adjustment.

Ranger belts are intended to be wide, and The Propeller is no exception. At 1.75” (4.5cm), it’s definitely intended for wide belt loops. The tapered points of leather will sometimes catch onto smaller belt loops as well, so this belt is best worn with a thick pair of jeans (as much as I wanted to wear it with…well, everything).

The Propeller is likely quite different than the belt you’re wearing now, but it’s easy to get used to and will serve its wearer well.

AESTHETIC

Normally, I get home, roll up my belt, and place it on a somewhat high shelf in my closet out of the way. When that belt is the Propeller I instead link the buckle and place it prominently on my desk in my room–similar to the painting hanging on my wall.

The Propeller is a work of art. The US Navy two-piece buckle catches a lot of attention, but it wouldn’t have that power without the gorgeous background of hand-dyed, deep cognac oak bark leather. It carries the spirit of its inspirations well, exuding a vintage air of military and historical literature, with perhaps just a hint of steampunk. To say it plainly, wearing the Propeller makes me feel incredibly cool. Based on the number of compliments it draws, I’d say I’m not the only one.

It is a bit of a ‘loud’ look for some. We’re used to very simple belts. The Propeller poetically ascends above this standard for those who can appreciate it.

Conclusion

I absolutely love this belt. At the basic level it’s well constructed with top-of-the-line materials, and is a highly functional belt. Beyond that, it’s a one-of-a-kind work of art, exuding numerous inspiring cultures and sure to leave you feeling great just from the experience of wearing it.

The price makes it clear that the Propeller is for someone looking for much more than just a way to keep their pants up, but rather someone who’s looking for a rare, heirloom belt that’s the product of a highly artistic mind. I see this being the kind of item given as an indulgent graduation gift or passed from generation to generation.

The Hawkmoth Propeller is, unquestionably, a Buy It For Life product that I couldn’t recommend more. It’s only one of numerous impressive designs Hawkmoth boasts, so swing by their online shop to see for yourself.

September 8, 2016December 19, 2017

Timberland Boot Company Wodehouse Captoe Oxfords – $289

When I think of Timberland, I almost always picture the classic 6-Inch boots, or a pair of hiking boots. But I’ve recently been able to see quite a bit of their product line, which includes almost every conceivable type of shoe for men, women and kids. Their most impressive collection, however, is known as the Timberland Boot Company, which was launched about a decade ago. This line is focused on craftsmanship, using Horween leather and higher quality materials. We’re taking a look at Wodehouse Captoe Oxfords from the Timberland Boot Company line.

About

Timberland can trace its roots all the way back to 1920s Boston, where Nathan Schwartz began his career as an apprentice stitcher. Schwartz and his family grew the company and, in the 1950s introduced an innovative injection-molding technique that allowed them to waterproof their boots. In 1973, they introduced the “Timberland” brand, and the rest is history. Timberland is now a huge clothing and footwear brand that operates stores worldwide. Their company headquarters are in Stratham, New Hampshire.

CONSTRUCTION

The Wodehouse Oxfords are made with a waxy full grain leather from Horween, welted onto a leather sole. The sole is reinforced with rubber panels at the heel and toe for traction. The inside is lined with a molded leather insole that is removable.

The shoe has a classic oxford construction with rustic details to make them unique. The vamp is made of thick strips that are attached with contrasting stitching with matching cotton laces. There are extra panels sewn along some of the seams to give it an old-fashioned, patchwork appearance.

AESTHETIC & FIT

The Wodehouse Oxfords have a very old-world feel to them, with waxy, marbled leather, textured details, and leather soles. They’re available in Burnished Dark Brown, Burnished Black, and Dark Russet Full-Grain (which is this pair).

These shoes are extremely comfortable out of the box. I like that you can wear them with semi-formal attire as well as a pair of jeans. The leather is soft, the sole is extremely durable, I have no complaints about these shoes. The soft leather scratches easily, but also buffs out easily. Even so, the marks add character to the leather and any minor scuffs do not compromise the shoe’s integrity.

CONCLUSION

The Timberland Boot Company Wodehouse Cap Toe Oxfords are a unique choice in the world of oxfords. The full grain leather will hold up well, and don’t require a ton of care. If you’re looking for a quality all around duty oxford and one that elicits a slightly different look than the bevy of traditional oxfords that are out there, I encourage you to consider the Wodehouse Captoe Oxfords. They’re well made, durable, and will get better with time and use.

August 20, 2016December 19, 2017

Sandlot Goods Billfold Wallet Horween Rio Latigo Review – $85

There’s two things just about every guy has in common; a love for baseball and a wallet in their back pocket. I really enjoy the nostalgic vibe and quality products put out by Sandlot Goods, so when I got a chance to review the Sandlot Goods Billfold Wallet, a piece that infuses America’s pastime with my everyday carry, I was more than willing.

CONSTRUCTION

The Sandlot Goods Bilfold is made from famous Horween leather. This style in particular is from the Rio Latigo series. When asked about this particular style Sandlot explained:

Latigo is a full grain leather that is combination tanned and fat liquored. This means that the process uses both chrome and vegetable extracts, which is then conditioned with emulsified oils and waxes. What makes Latigo unique is the dying process. The leather is first drum-dyed and then aniline finished. The dyes in the aniline finishing process contains no pigment, allowing the natural of the character of the leather to be seen. The leather is then pasted and hand glazed. Pasting is the drying process where the leather is fixed to ceramic plates. This process smooths out the grain and provides very little stretch.

The billfold is made with several pieces of leather, this provides much friendlier storage and retrieval options for your cards but it also adds a lot more stress points. Generally with leather, the less seams the stronger the product. The stitching is clean and tight and I didn’t spot any frayed or loose threads. The wallet is made in Kansas City. It also boasts a pigskin lining which is great because it provides a slightly tackier surface so your cash will be more inclined to stay put…unless of course Jack Links jerky is on sale at Wal-Mart, in which case take my money!

FUNCTION

When opened, the middle spine has a long oval cutout which helps the wallet close easier. This is a nice feature for those who want a wallet that will perform right out of the box. I’ve reviewed some wallets that I just had to absolutely beat into submission for weeks before they were comfortable in my pockets. Sandlot Goods did a great job here with that aspect. Card storage is another issue though. I appreciate the front right slot with a cutout for thumbing your cards out quickly, but I find the slotted pocket above that too deep. When fully inserted, a card only has about an eighth of an inch clearance making retrieval a chore. The left side horizontal pocket works, but would have been handier as a ID window with no plastic. You can fit a fair amount of cards into this wallet, but it won’t be exactly fluid. Cash carry is always a forte of billfolds and this one does not disappoint. The deep channel allows for easy access of cash.

AESTHETIC

This wallet’s finest attribute for me is the looks. It’s Horween leather, so you just know it’s going to get better with use. Expect a deep whiskey color to develop with age. The signature Sandlot baseball V pattern stitch really does a great job accenting this wallet. Its an obviously simple design on the outside, but it’s so well executed. There is no reinventing the wheel here.

CONCLUSION

The Sandlot Goods Billfold is simply a quality wallet with just enough personality to make it worth a second look. Its price point puts it about smack dab in the middle for handmade leather goods and the quality is on point with other similar wallets I’ve reviewed. It is a solid wallet with solid looks. ‘Nuff said.

August 17, 2016December 19, 2017

Les Cuirs Peussou Handmade Leather Belt Review — $80

I’ve recently been shopping among small-time leathermakers, in search of something more unique, with a customized feel. I found a Handmade Leather Belt from Les Cuirs Peussou. This belt traveled so far in transit that I don’t actually know how to pronounce the shop’s name. Luckily, I’m a writer.

About Les Cuirs Peussou

Les Cuirs Peussou is a one-man operation based out of Veyrac in the heart of France (near Limoges). The maker’s name is Remi, a craftsman who sells handmade products through his Etsy store. When I exchanged emails with him, I asked about his passion. Here’s his response, which is so candid you can almost hear the accent:

“I hope the description would be clear and apologize on my non perfect English (this is not my mother tongue).

“I do my best selecting the highest quality of leather from local tanneries. I would like to develop a brand which purpose is an original way of thinking in leather products, particularly in the colors. I spend lots of time to create my own tones from basic primary colors (blue, yellow, and red).

“And I always try to improve comfort of my products. My way of thinking of the work is to be perpetually in evolution, to offer better and better quality.”

— Rémi DRENO

Construction

The leather for this belt comes from the Gal tannery in Bellac, France, which has a reputation for quality leather, and from what I’ve seen this belt lives up to that. It’s sliced from top-grain leather, polished to a smooth finish.

The leather wraps back on itself to fasten the buckle, and this segment is hand-punched and saddle-stitched (two needles go through each hole in opposite directions for added strength). This gives the finished product a slight variance or ruggedness that adds to the visual appeal, a detail that requires a close look to really appreciate.

The leather is finished first with bee’s wax and then with Remi’s homemade leather polish. The leather feels smooth to the touch (despite the visual texture).

Function

The back of the belt has a suede finish which is soft. Although this doesn’t show when worn, it makes the belt seem more formal to the wearer.

I found my belt to be right on the edge of being too small. So you might consider getting one size larger than your other belts. (Or maybe I need to cut back, if you know what I mean.)

I don’t have a lot more to say about the functionality. It kept my pants up. I did actually test the durability by hanging my body weight from the belt. The leather and the buckle held up just fine under my 180 lbs. There was no creasing or bending. So it’s durable.

Aesthetic

The leather is vegetable tanned, which makes it adaptable for dying. On the style I selected, Remi created a black texture that creeps inward onto the brown and looks really cool. It feels stylish in a rugged kind of way. And the contrasting colors make it fit nicely with a variety of outfits.

BestLeather Conclusion

This belt is standard in its functionality. What’s unique about it is that it’s handmade by a French craftsman. It also takes a classic style and blends the hues, giving the belt an uncommon fashion advantage. If you’re looking for a unique accoutrement to give some dash to your wardrobe, take a look at Les Cuirs Peussou’s Handmade Leather Belt.

August 16, 2016December 19, 2017

Soft Star Hawthorne Chukka Boots Review — $190

The name chukka comes from the Hindi word chukker, meaning a circle or turn. This word was used in polo to mark periods of play. But polo players wear riding boots, right? Yes. The fact is, it’s unclear how this style of boot got its name, but some speculate that off-duty polo players might’ve worn something comfortable like the chukka boot while strolling town (which happens to be another connotation of the word chukker—e.g., to walk a casual loop).

But I was on the lookout for an unconventional style of chukka boot. I wanted a zero-drop version, the kind that doesn’t have any rise beneath the heel. I won’t get into the why here (there’s plenty already published if you’re the curious sort), but I will tell you what I found: Soft Star’s Hawthorne Chukka Boots.

About Soft Star

Tim and Jeanie Oliver founded Soft Star 30 years ago. The company made shoes with a soft structure for kids, to allow for more natural foot development and growth. As they had success with those initial products, they began to expand into adult footwear. They attribute a spike in their success to the publishing of Born to Run in 2009—when so many people started looking for a minimalist running shoe. Their latest product is an adult fashion boot, which I’ll tell you about.

Construction

The structure is like that of a traditional chukka boot. It’s ankle high, and open laced (which means the vamp, the part that covers the toe, is underneath the quarters, which the laces are attached to). This open lacing creates a distinct shape: a straight line comes to a point at the bottom of the laces and then curves back toward the heel and down. This simple structure gives the boot lot of character.

And speaking of simple, this is an unlined shoe, meaning there’s only one thin layer of leather over your feet, with no extra padding or lining. This adds to the comfort factor and reduces the weight and bulk. But it also means the boots don’t have the typical body and form of other shoes. This boils down to a simple functional fact: you can’t wear them unlaced. (They’re about my only shoes that I lace up.) But even laced, they feel great. They’re made of a soft, flexible leather, almost like a slipper.

The laces have no metal eyelets, just three holes punched in the leather. Again, an exceptionally simple style that impacts form and function.

Function

They’re way comfortable—this is one aspect I’m particularly excited to talk about.

The insole has a rubber bottom to keep it from slipping, and it’s suede on top, which is soft against your foot.

The soles are fairly thick and give you great padding when walking on concrete and other unforgiving surfaces. They’re not bad for just standing in either, almost like you’re on a firm yoga mat.

The leather upper stretches slightly, so you might end up wanting a size smaller than you’d otherwise expect. I, however, actually fit my foot into a pair two sizes down from what I settled on in the end. So it’s a matter of whether you can stand a tight feel while the boots stretch to fit your foot. I do sometimes wish I’d gone a size smaller.

Aesthetic

The name of these Hawthorne chukka boots got me excited—it suggests an American classic, something rugged and vintage. It made me want to wear them while milling around some dark, New England forest haunted by the ghosts of dead authors. The color and finish of the leather reinforce this aspect, and I like the simple black laces against the brown.

I have to be honest, though: parts of the look took a little getting used to, and my opinion has gone back and forth a few times since they arrived. (Maybe I’m just not quite hipster enough.) Some days I feel like they’re a tad too primitive. Mostly it’s the flat toe that gets me. I wish it had a little more body at the end, like a curled fist (which would’ve given my toes more room in the smaller size). Other days, I love the look and the funky hipster vibe they give off. On those days, I think of them as rudimentary urban moccasins, and I like the look a lot. In the end, it’s your call—the photos are frank about the unconventional style.

BestLeather Conclusion

If you decide to order, I recommend this method for getting your shoe size right: Put your heel against a wall, and put a thick book at your toes to mark the distance. Then move your foot and measure. I discovered this method late in the game, which meant I should’ve had a major headache doing several exchanges. But Soft Star’s customer service is a wonder—so quick to help. They sent a prepaid label for the returns, and the new pair arrived right away, saving me time, money, and stress. I’m sure you’ll have a similar experience.

Soft Star’s Hawthorne Chukka Boots are lightweight, soft, and flexible. They have a unique visual style that makes a statement. They’re also zero-drop shoes, which means they have all the accompanying benefits. Most of all, they’re exceptionally comfortable.

August 10, 2016December 19, 2017

Grant Stone Longwing Crimson Review – $335

The wingtip brogue is a staple in many men’s wardrobes today, but the longwing brogue is still making it’s way back from the 1970s. We’ve had the chance to try out this style in Grant Stone’s Longwing Crimson. These standout shoes feature a Goodyear welt over a thick, stacked leather sole, a pull-up leather upper, and have a great vintage sense of style.

ABOUT GRANT STONE

Grant Stone‘s small team is directed by Wyatt Gilmore, a third generation member of his family to be in the shoe business. Wyatt has spent years living near their factory in Xiamen, China, drawing from the decades of experience in his family as well as their factory to design their shoes. Grant Stone seeks to add their own touch to classic styles, making shoes that would be hard to find copies of elsewhere, with well fitting designs and high end materials.

Grant Stone’s leathers are sourced from the USA and Europe. Each pair of shoes is shipped with a pair of single-shoe dustbags.

CONSTRUCTION

The Longwing Crimson is a longwing brogue derby. Surrounding a steel shank, cork fill, and rubber heel is nothing but leather. The upper is a lovely, heavy weight aniline pull-up leather dyed in-house.

The sole is Goodyear welt construction, with an impressively thick stacked leather sole and open channel stitching. The heel has a small rubber insert for longer wear and traction, but the sole is otherwise leather, and can be replaced by a cobbler when it finally wears through. Between this and the quality, thick upper, you’re looking at a shoe with a long lifetime.

Overall construction across the shoe is done very well. It gives the appearance and function of a high-end shoe. There’s a few minor inconsistencies, but they’re cosmetic and only visible at very close inspection.

From a construction standpoint, Grant Stone seems to have taken a fair amount of inspiration from Alden. The steel shank first made me feel this way. Alden is known for using them, in comparison to companies such as Allen Edmonds, who have chosen to forego the durability of a shank in favor of a lighter and more flexible shoe. The rubber heel portion, overall design of the sole, and quality of materials used enforce the Alden comparison as well.

FUNCTION

The first thought you’ll have upon putting on the Longwing Crimson for the first time will almost certainly be that this is a heavy, thick soled shoe. Fears about a long, painful wear-in period definitely come up, but I was surprised to discover that this wasn’t an issue. The comfort wasn’t as instant as a thinner, lighter shoe, but for how thick and stiff the sole is, the wear in was pleasant. Over time the midsole molded to my feet and the shoe softened up. A nice vamp crease has developed, and scuffs in the leather can easily be rubbed out or given some treatment and brushing.

The Longwing Crimson is such a tough shoe that it may take a little time, but they’ll eventually become like an old friend who sticks with you year in and year out.

Fit

Like many formal shoes, Grant Stone’s tend to run a bit large, in part due to the Leo last used to form them. I’m typically a US 9 for tennis shoes and a US 8 for formal shoes, and a size 8 Longwing Crimson was right for me.

AESTHETIC

A longwing brogue is a unique style that stands out amongst similar shoes, though in a subtle way. The brogue pattern extends to the back of the heel, rather than ending around the ball of the foot with a typical wingtip. In addition, Grant Stone’s Leo last makes the shape stand out–it gives the toe area a bit more roundness and space than many similar shoes.

While the highly fashionable amongst us will pull these off with cuffed jeans (as a longwing or wingtip shoe is technically less formal than a quarter- or half-brogue), I personally favored pairing the Longwing Crimson with a suit and tie. Whatever setting you like them in, one thing is for sure: this is a beautiful shoe, and you’re going to get compliments.

The crimson color tends to range visually from brown to a deep red/orange color depending on the light. The aniline finish of the pull-up leather shines well and really catches the eye. The whole effect is a savory high-end shoe with a bit of a vintage flair, thanks to the longwing brogue and thick edging.

CONCLUSION

The Grant Stone Longwing Crimson is a very tough and stylish shoe. The longwing brogue design and more rounded toe area give it a subtle uniqueness. The quality leathers will make it stand out in whatever setting you choose to wear them in. There is a wear in period, but it’s surprisingly comfortable even in this phase. I made the comparison to Alden’s construction style, but thankfully, the price doesn’t even approach that of the more famous brand, and this could be a a great economic alternative. With proper care and resoling, the Longwing Crimson will last for many, many years, and I highly recommend them to those wanting to add a bit of flair to their shoe collection.