Thrux Lawrence Black Leather Builder’s Billfold Review – $120

The movement of earth and construction of buildings and monuments through which we conduct our daily lives is the work of serious men. These same serious men require reliable, solidly built tools and adornments to quarry the stone and cut the timber these structures require.

Joining this lineup of robust equipment is the Thrux Lawrence Black Leather Builder’s Billfold. Rugged, yet stylish and sporting some serious hardware, this wallet will echo the attitude and good looks of its owner. It is important to note that the wallet I received is a prototype and has undergone some changes since this writing.

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About Thrux Lawrence

I recently had the chance to visit the Thrux Lawrence shop in downtown Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho, for a product photoshoot. Walking into the store, you get an immediate sense of style and sheer authenticity. From the onsite, old-school barber shop to the pool table to the leather workshop populated by hand tools and vegetable-tanned leather hides, Thrux Lawrence is a unique and inviting stop for custom leather (and other) products.

Tanden Launder founded Thrux Lawrence in 2012 with the idea of crafting high-quality, limited release clothing and accessory lines that are made in America. After touring the shop and viewing all of the collector’s items on display, it’s easy to see how his love of vintage goods has translated into the products they produce today.

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Construction

The Thrux Lawrence Builders Billfold is as serious as it is solid. It weighs 7.4 ounces (207 grams), making it the three hundred pound offensive lineman in the world of wallets. The leather strap that connects the wallet to the solid brass swiveling trigger snap is 3.5 millimeters thick on average. The snap hook is far stronger than any item of clothing you might attach to it and is secured to the leather strap by a hand-hammered brass rivet.

The wallet is constructed of 3 ounce oil-dyed leather and stitched with nylon-bonded black thread, creating two slots for cash and eight compartments for credit cards, man cards, and identification. There are two additional compartments for storing cash and other similar-sized items with no need for folding. The wallet measures 7 ½” x 3 ½” closed, and while it will fit in the back pocket of your jeans, it might find a more comfortable nest in a cargo pocket or the inside pocket of your jacket.

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If I was asked to point out an area for improvement on this wallet, it would be where the leather strap is connected to a cord to attach it to the wallet. The cord is strong and well-reinforced on the wallet side with a brass grommet protecting the leather. I’d like to see the same grommet reinforcing the tie-off of the cord and leather strap. The snap on one edge of the wallet is great for keeping it closed. The only thing I worried about was snagging the other edge of the wallet on a piece of clothing or a bag when hastily stored, as it hangs open a bit. A second snap opposite the first would eliminate this concern.

Function

The wallet fit comfortably in the back pocket of my work pants, though I don’t think sitting on it would remain comfortable for very long. The strap was long enough that I could clip it to my belt and store the wallet in the inside pocket of my jacket.

If you’re someone who appreciates being able to carry all of your credit cards, cash, and punch cards in one place, this is the right wallet for you. It is designed to be able to take a beating, and with the card slots facing inwards, there is little chance they’ll fall out. This wallet is one you’ll be able to carry for years, if not decades.

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Aesthetic

This wallet is big and sturdy; it is designed for the outdoorsman who wants to keep his stable of credit cards, identification, and business cards all in one place. Its appearance and feel give the owner a sense of ruggedness, such that this wallet might be at home clipped to the saddle of a Dutch Warmblood riding out on a windswept prairie. It conveys a sense of ruggedness and quality that anyone looking for a full-size wallet will appreciate.

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Conclusion

The Thrux Lawrence Black Leather Builder’s Billfold is good looking, tough, and will go anywhere on the trail you do without fear of it succumbing to the elements. It’s also available in brown leather. With a couple minor hardware changes to the snaps and grommets, this wallet would be the perfect addition to any working man’s wardrobe. As it stands, it is an excellent wallet that you wouldn’t be disappointed with should you choose to add it to your collection. For an investment of $120, you’ll be purchasing a wallet that will last you for your lifetime of hard work and on-the-go-style.

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Thrux Lawrence Black Leather Coasters (Square – Set of 4) Review – $25

Thrux Lawrence is one of the first companies BestLeather has had the pleasure of working with, and also the first company to pique my interest in leather. Because my barber is connected to the Thrux Lawrence flagship store, I repeatedly find myself perusing their leather goods, the outstanding collection of antiques, and generally longing to buy one of everything. Thrux Lawrence is a solid company who “builds them like they used to.” Even when it comes to coasters.

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About Thrux Lawrence

I discovered Thrux Lawrence one day casually strolling the streets of Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho with my sister. She had apparently heard about this awesome store that just opened downtown, and being the hip teenagers we were, we had to check it out. My first experience with Thrux Lawrence was very exciting. Tanden greeted us at the door and began explaining how his company was built around the principles of functional yet stylish design, limited supply, and Made in the USA. From that point on I was very interested in leather and its durability, longevity, and style, especially the products Thrux Lawrence has to offer.

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Construction

Coasters may perhaps be the easiest leather accessories anyone could construct. But even with something so simple, it is still difficult to get the perfect result. Made from black 10-12oz bridle leather, these coasters are as indestructible as any of the other Thrux products. Occupying the standard coaster size of 4 x 4 in, this coaster provides adequate space for even the largest of drinks. The burnished edges and Thrux Lawrence logo add just enough flair to the coaster.

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Function

I have yet to come across a drink that will not fit on these coasters. And even if I had, I should never be drinking that much anyway. The coasters function extremely well. The leather is thick enough to prevent moisture underneath, but not too thick so drinks tip over if they are not placed all the way on the coaster. I have been pleased with them so far, and they will most definitely outlast any non-leather coaster.

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Aesthetic

Black is one of my favorite colors. It is simple, goes with almost anything, and in the case of coasters, prevents any discoloration. The Thrux Lawrence coasters are very rigid. Their strength reflects the principles this company was founded on, and even though coasters are very simple, they’ve continued to abide strictly to those principles.

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Conclusion

If you are looking for a simple set of quality leather coasters, check out the shapes and colors Thrux Lawrence has to offer. Whether you choose squares or circles, black or brown, the coasters will be the same quality. Coming in at $25, the Thrux Lawrence Leather Coasters are an excellent choice for simple, effective leather accessory.

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Thrux Lawrence Brown Leather Coasters (Round – Set of 4) Review – $25

I’ll be honest and say I hadn’t thought much about coffee coasters in quite some time before I got my hands on the Thrux Lawrence Brown Leather Coasters. In this case, what you see is what you get: a set of four dark brown leather coasters with the Thrux Lawrence logo embossed on the edge. No frills – just quality, attractive leather to protect your furniture from the unwanted ablutions of a mint julep in the summertime. As is always the case with Thrux Lawrence products, the leather is well-made and beautifully grained.

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About Thrux Lawrence

Tanden Launder founded Thrux Lawrence in 2012 with the idea of crafting high-quality, limited release clothing and accessory lines that are made in America. As a collector of vintage goods, Tanden has integrated his love of these items into how he creates the products they put out. By examining the qualities responsible for giving these products their beauty and longevity, he has been able to integrate these qualities into the lines of products he is offering today.

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Construction

Construction is fairly simple with these coasters. The four pieces are made of a single piece of leather that averaged about 3.5 millimeters in thickness. The leather is thick, tough, and nicely grained. You’ll find the Thrux Lawrence logo embossed on one edge of each coaster.

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Function

The Thrux Lawrence Brown Coasters measure 4 inches across and are large enough to hold all but the biggest super-size drinks. The thickness of the leather ensures no condensation is going to form underneath the coaster and ruin that solid oak coffee table your grandfather hand-carved with a pocket knife. Any liquid spilled on the coaster cleans up easily with a paper towel due to the lacquer on the coaster surface. As with any leather product, avoid getting them completely soaked. A damp cloth is the most these coasters should see to wipe up any spills or clean them off.

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Aesthetic

The dark brown leather of the coasters is attractive, if simple. There are a few additions I thought would enhance the beauty of these coasters: the option to have the coasters embossed with custom lettering; and a stitching or embossing inset from the edge of the coaster. Embossing would look good as well as serve a purpose: it could trap any liquid running off a cup before it spills over the edge of the coaster. Stitching, while purely aesthetic, would set off the embossed lettering. The last addition that I’d enjoy for the coasters is a customized holder, leather or wood being my first two choices. They are currently packaged with a single rawhide lace that looks great, but could be misplaced. On a final note, because of the simplicity in the design and the dark color of the leather, these coasters would look at home out on the trail as much as they would on your dining table.

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Conclusion

At the current price point of $25.00 for a set of four coasters, the Thrux Lawrence Brown Leather Coasters represent a good value based on what I’ve seen of other leather coaster sets on the market. They would also make a great addition as part of a larger gift set. Based on the product lines Thrux Lawrence already has out, I wouldn’t be surprised to see them offering additional options for this product in the future.

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Horween Leather Company and Thrux Lawrence All Leather Thrux Pack – $990

In the not too distant past, BestLeather received a hide of the Horween Leather Company’s latigo leather, in a chestnut color.  Thinking of one of the best places we could take the hide to and develop it into something beautiful and functional, we immediately thought of Thrux Lawrence of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.  We asked them to craft something fine from the leather so that we can showcase Horween’s latigo leather and something fine they indeed crafted.

Tanden Launder, the proprietor of Thrux Lawrence, took the project a step further and crafted something new for them, an ALL leather Thrux Pack.  They craft many of their thick 24 ounce canvas and latigo leather Thrux Packs, which are beautiful and extremely rugged, and which they sell online and at their brick and mortar store in Coeur d’Alene, but they had yet to make an all leather Thrux Pack.  This was a serendipitous opportunity to try something a little new.

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HORWEEN LEATHER COMPANY

The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween.  The company has remained in family hands (currently run by Arnold “Skip” Horween, Isadore’s great grandson) ever since and is now the last remaining tannery in the Chicago area, and one of the few remaining industrial tanneries in the United States.  Horween’s first product was shell cordovan for razor strops.

After the invention of the electric razor and the subsequent reduced demand for razor strops, Horween recognized the need to diversify it’s leather portfolio.  The result has been some fine leathers, and some tanning recipes that are still being used today, decades later (think Chromexcel).

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Avid readers of BestLeather will be very familiar with the name Horween.  The simple reason for this is that many, many of the leather companies whose products we review use Horween’s leather.  And the simple reason for that is because Horween produces some of the finest (if not the finest) leather for consumer goods.  Their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan probably get the most attention in the realm of high quality leather goods, but one line of leather that needs a little more recognition is their Latigo line of leather.

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ABOUT THE LATIGO LINE OF LEATHER

Tanden with Thrux swears by latigo leather.  In my conversations with him he has repeated that latigo is the time tested leather, and of course he is correct.  Latigo is a form or method of tanning leather.  Traditionally tanned from cowhide, latigo is normally combination tanned, usually chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned, which is how Horween still does it.  Latigo has traditionally been used for horse tack, namely for saddle cinches.  The reason for this is the durable nature of latigo.  It is tanned in a way that makes it more stiff than many of your luxury leathers, with less stretch, and as a result is more durable.  This is the main reason that Thrux Lawrence prefers latigo, its durable nature.

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Another benefit in using Horween’s latigo is that their leather is struck through.  This means that after tanning the hide, the hide is then dyed with the color of choice, and they allow the dye to penetrate through the entire hide.  Many tanneries simply dye the exterior of the leather, but when cut into you see either a blue strip running through the middle of the leather (in the case of chrome tanned leathers), or a light brown strip (in the case of vegetable tanned leather).  For the purposes of luxury consumers goods, this is unacceptable.  Striking the leather through is more time consuming and expensive, but Horween doesn’t take any shortcuts and that shows in their leather.

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ABOUT THE ALL LEATHER THRUX PACK

Like all of Thrux Lawrence goods, the All Leather Thrux Pack is ridiculously tough and overbuilt, which is just the way I like it.  This particular Thrux Pack uses two different colors and weights of latigo.  Horween provided BestLeather a chestnut hide that is four to five ounces in weight.  This hide was used in the construction of the main body of the Thrux Pack, as well as the internal computer sleeve and pocket.  Thrux used a darker brown latigo leather from Horween that is eight to nine ounces in weight for the shoulder straps, the top flap and straps, the handle, and their signature bucket tray, or bottom of the bag.  Eight to nine ounce latigo leather in an of itself is thick and extremely rugged.  Thrux takes that thick leather and doubles it for the shoulder straps and handle.  The result is one hardy backpack that is bound to last generations.

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To combine all of this beautiful and sturdy leather, Thrux uses very durable bonded nylon thread.  For this Thrux Pack, they used a white thread which contrasts nicely against the chestnut colored leather.  Note the double stitching for increased durability on the shoulder straps as well as the bottom tray, another indication of attention to detail.  The hardware used for the buckles is solid brass.  The zippers used are oversized, solid brass, YKK Zippers.  And the rivets used to further secure the leather are solid brass rivets and burrs.

I stated in a previous article written for BestLeather that solid copper rivets are the toughest rivets you can use for leather, but I was mistaken.  As brass is a combination of tin and copper, which results in a much harder metal than copper, solid brass rivets are much tougher than copper.  The use of solid brass over solid copper rivets is indicative of Thrux Lawrence’s approach to leather crafting.  They use only the very best materials in the making of their bags and goods.

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With a lot of thick, sturdy latigo leather, the All Leather Thrux Pack is going to take some time to break in and be comfortable.  On the flip side, after you use the bag for work or travel, you know your kid will be able to use it for college and work, and their kid will be able to do the same.  The bag is that well made and the Horween leather that durable.

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BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

The All Leather Thrux Pack from Thrux Lawrence is a ridiculously well made bag.  The choice of using latigo leather from the Horween Leather Company is the best choice.  Latigo is time tested, is very durable, and Horween’s latigo is struck through and beautiful.  $990 may seem like a lot to put down for a backpack and it is.  But this really is not any ordinary bag.  The attention to detail, the use of the best possible and most durable materials, and the quality craftsmanship means this is an investment in an heirloom quality good.  The use of Horween’s latigo means you’re also getting the best quality leather that is used by the best leather companies in the United States and beyond.  BestLeather definitely recommends the All Leather Thrux Pack and could not speak more highly of Horween’s latigo leather.

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Traveling Through Europe With The Thrux Lawrence Thrux Pack

Taking a trip to Europe has always been a plan my wife and I had. This past month my wife and I finally got the chance to go. Our plan was Paris for three days, from there we would fly from Beauvais to Pisa. From Pisa we would take a train to Cinque Terre and stay in La Spezia. And we would end our adventure in Florence, for another three days.

Because we were going to be traveling so much we decided to pack light. Our goal was to be as simplistic as we could when we traveled. This meant we both needed a sturdy, quality, and durable bag, that could carry our clothes, toothbrushes, and copies of St. Augustine’s ‘Confessions’ (a must read for any true renaissance man). Our permanent solution to this temporary problem were two Thrux Packs, built in the USA by Thrux Lawrence. The packs fit everything we cared to bring with a bit of room to spare.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris08These packs ended up serving us very well. They made for great conversation pieces on every plane ride, they transformed into incredibly comfortable stools when waiting to catch the train, and they even had enough room to carry a baguette or two.

Our first leg of the trip brought us to Paris. My wife and I were most excited about this because we got to see my sister and her family and we also got to be in the most romantic city in the world (I’m not kidding, people were making out everywhere, it was a freaking epidemic). We entered the city by going through the doors of the metro station, my wife’s pack got stuck in the doors as they closed, I had to pry her out but the Thrux pack held true, not a scratch on it. We walked up the steps and onto a very quiet street near the Notre Dame (which was our rendezvous point). Before us lay an empty cobble stoned, scooter scattered road, littered with cafes and bakeries, and a heavy smell of tobacco in the air. It was marvelous. We walked to the end of the road and found where all the people were. Everyone seemed to be gathered on the side of the road, next to the Seine, waiting in anticipation for someone. We found out from some American woman that the Queen of England was about to drive by (she had been visiting Paris that weekend). Showing how truly American we were, we shrugged our shoulders and kept walking, “I’ve already seen the queen on my 5 dollar bill from the Toronto airport”, my wife said. I love her.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris02We found my sister and her family in front of the Notre Dame as planned, and spent the next 72 hours eating way too many pastries, seeing way too many beautiful buildings and works of art, and all-in-all enjoying ourselves way too much. Our packs were used minimally while we were in Paris, mostly because we were staying in one place the entire time we were there. However, our packs became much more essential to us as we left France and headed to Italy.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris01We landed in Pisa at about 8 pm. The nice thing about Pisa is that you can literally walk from the airport into town. The bad thing about Pisa is that all of the street signs are carved in marble on the sides of old buildings, and half of them aren’t even there. Needless to say, finding our airbNb house for the evening was quite the challenge. We ended up roaming around Pisa for about two hours before we found our place, but the entire time our packs did not present us with much trouble. After finding our hosts house, we ditched our packs, went to the nearest pizza shop and bought a margherita pizza and two beers. From there we roamed the street of Pisa until about one in the morning, talking and eating, seeing the Leaning Tower, and eating the best gelato I have ever tasted.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris10The next day my wife and I found ourselves eating Wheaties with our host’s lover. The one thing all cultures have in common is the sense of awkwardness. We left Pisa extremely excited to see Cinque Terre. Our plan was to hike as far as we could with our packs and take a train to La Spezia to stay at an olive farm. We got to Cinque Terre around noon and were immediately blown away. The streets are speckled with row boats from local fishermen, and nearly half of everyone there was American, which was really comforting for us. We began to hike around the first hill when we came to a blocked off trail, the road had been washed away by rain the week before. So we decided to hike up to the top of the hill. It was the most beautiful hike I have ever been on. Imagine climbing a staircase and on either side of you are vineyards terraced into the Mediterranean sea. And every direction you look is a feast of colors and flowers. Beauty aside, this trail was wicked hard. Our packs seems to grow heavier and heavier and we started to feel like Christian from ‘Pilgrims Progress’. One thing I will say about the Thrux Pack is that when they are stuffed as full as you can get them, they don’t form as well to your body, making them a bit awkward to carry. This was normally not a problem for us, but when we began our hike up the long trail we started to feel the discomfort. The sun began to bake us like gingerbread men, and we were sweating so hard our sun glasses wouldn’t even stay on. If any of you readers are going to hike Cinque Terre with a Thrux Pack, make sure to pack very lightly. This was the only time in our trip where we weren’t thrilled to have packs strapped to us, in hindsight though, there were not very many hikers with backpacks. We on the other hand had every one of our possessions along with us (big mistake). We got to the top of the hill and decided that swimming was more fun. We worked our way down the hill and spent the rest of the day swimming in the sea and watching fire flies. There was a positive side to this mishap though. Our backpacks became much more supple and less stiff when we got done with our hike. I think the sun and the sweat of our backs actually made them more comfortable. I know this sounds gross but it’s true, if you want to truly break in your Thrux Pack, just load it with as much stuff as you can and go hike the closest mountain to you. Works like a charm.

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From there we moved on to Florence. Neither of us really knew why we were going to Florence, but we heard it was great, so we went. We got there and were not enthused. I think by this point our morale was incredibly low. we were sweaty, dirty, and the architect we were staying with was frustrated that we could not speak Italian. This is where our packs really started to show their strength. Every day we were in Florence we got dumped on by rain. We are talking Florida sized alligator tear drops raining from the heavens. Our packs were exposed to the rain the first day, I was worried because I thought the bread I just bought was going to be soaked, but when we got back to the house, our bread was warm and dry, and everything else in our packs was dry as well. The only thing that even looked wet was the leather, which even though had not been treated for rain, had remained a beautiful brown. This happened two more times, in front of the Academia, and the next day when we snuck in the Bomboli Gardens.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris09The first thing most people notice when they buy a Thrux Pack is how stiff the straps are. They are incredibly tough, Horween leather on leather stitched to the nines. If a nuclear bomb went off the only two things left standing would be cockroaches and the world’s Thrux Packs. This made me a bit nervous for our trip. I was afraid the straps would be a bit too uncomfortable and too stiff, but by the time we left Florence, the straps of our bags were well broken in, and had lost none of their strength. In fact they seemed to grow even stronger from all of the use.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris03We left Florence much happier, we had seen the most amazing pieces of art in the world and all the while looked awesome in our packs. My wife and I got countless compliments on our bags when we walked through the Florentine leather shops (which if you know anything about the people of Florence, it’s that they know good leather products when they see them).

We took a train from Florence back to Pisa and had about five hours to kill before our plane took off going back to Beauvais. When we got back to Pisa we were dying of heat, our feet had huge blisters, and our morale was now at an all time low. We found a good pizzeria with a/c and watched the World Cup as our skin cooled off a bit. Then we headed to an old abandoned church on the side of a river and sipped on a bottle of champagne. “We are easily the most stylish bums any of these tourists have ever seen”, my wife said. I couldn’t agree more. There we were, sitting on the steps of this church laughing our heads off because we were dirty, sweaty, and very sleep deprived. That was the best moment of the trip. It is funny how sometimes the most unexciting events of a big trip, can also be the most fond memories when looked back upon.

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We got to Beauvais late that night and were greeted at the airport by our host for the evening. He gave us some grim news. Apparently, the Parisian transportation unions were on strike that week, and there was only one train leaving for Paris in the morning. Needless to say we were worried. We slept very lightly that night, and woke up as early as we could to catch the train. We were the first ones at the counter that morning to buy our tickets, but when we went to pay for them, our card was declined. “Oh my goodness!, We are going to be stuck in France!”, I said to my wife. We ran around Beauvais trying to find an ATM, and found a very creepy man who led us to one. In hindsight this was not a very good idea. But he was our last resort. He brought us to an ATM and sauntered off. I used the same card and it worked! There must have been a problem with the train stations card reader (note to the reader: on a big trip abroad, cash is key). We bought our train tickets and were finally on our way back to North America. But the trip does not end there.

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We had an eighteen hour layover in Montreal. When we landed we desperately tried to find an earlier connecting flight, but we had no luck. So we decided to stay with my brother-in-law’s cousin in the city. We took the bus only to find ourselves lost in suburbia. At this point we were delirious from the lack of sleep and decided to lay down. The Thrux Packs made very nice pillows as we waited on some old lady’s yard for the bus. Long story short, we made our way to the city, enjoyed some very encouraging Canadian hospitality, and made it to our flight back home without any problems.

thrux lawrence thrux pack in paris05This trip was one of the most exciting adventures I have ever been on. It was also one of the most difficult learning experiences I have ever had. I have never been a very big traveler, and so we learned mostly by trial and error. But the one thing that would not fail us was our Thrux Packs. They remained strong and useful. They carried all of our belongings, kept our champagne cool, and our baguettes dry. We will most assuredly be taking another trip back to Europe soon, and when we do, our Thrux Packs will be joining us.

– by Phillip Siemens

Thrux Lawrence Dopp Kit Giveaway – $150 – Ends July 26th

Do you need something hefty to carry your toothbrush around in? Are you tired of wearing your lightweight dopp kit out with your toothpaste tube? How many dopp kits are you going to tear through until you buy something indestructible and toothbrush proof? (satire)

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the question is – will it blend?

Maybe. Those blenders are ridiculous.

Not only will you have this your entire lifetime (if you don’t blend it), but so will the next ten generations of your offspring. It’s that ridiculously tough. Usually this is the level of construction used on items that get a lot of use with heavy loads like backpacks and briefcases, but no, your toothbrush also deserves better levels of protection.

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To be fair, there are a lot of ways to use the dopp kit. Thrux Lawrence told me that people use these kits for all sorts of reasons–carrying golf balls, beauty goodies, tools, etc. Whatever you put inside will stay inside, which is really a handy feature. It’s much better than a ziploc bag.

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Here is the dopp kit carrying pool balls very effectively. Just in case you find a perfectly smooth place to whip out your EDC pool set.

Let’s just put it this way. When you win this dopp kit, no one will ever mock you for having too wimpy of a dopp kit. NEVER!

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The dopp kit also looks good sitting on a motorcycle… Or the motorcycle looks good with a dopp kit on it. I’m not sure. This may be a hot new trend.

Check out the Thrux Lawrence goods here.

The Freight Duffel from Thrux Lawrence Review – $570

Thrux Lawrence is a men’s essential dry goods supplier out of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, with a philosophy of building the highest quality goods from the highest quality materials. Products from Thrux will certainly outlast you and the following generation to come. To read more about Thrux Lawrence and its founder Tanden Launder, please check out my previous article here.  The latest product to come out of the imagination of Tanden Launder, owner, founder, and designer at Thrux Lawrence, is a duffel like none that I have ever seen. Without further ado, I give you the Freight from Thrux Lawrence.

Handsome.
Handsome.

the Freight Duffel

Tanden wanted to create a bag that could be used on longer journeys without sacrificing size or quality–a bag that could carry all of your essentials for longer forays. The result was a duffel bag in full Thrux style, complete with the classic “Thrux Tray” (a solid, two layer 9oz leather base plate) and 24oz anti-mildew canvas. In other words, this is not your Samsonite rolling suitcase. This is a bag meant to take on the world and take it with style.

construction and materials

In classic Thrux style, the Freight is built to withstand everything you can throw at it. The thread is 350 and 277 tex waxed cotton thread which was specifically designed for his bags — he chose it because it was some of the most durable thread available, as it will not deteriorate after exposure to sunlight as nylon thread does.

This is some seriously heavy duty thread, as seen on the shoulder strap.
This is some seriously heavy duty thread, as seen on the shoulder strap.

The Freight uses open box stitching techniques coupled with #9 solid brass rivets to attach the handle and the shoulder strap. The open box stitching is an important facet in the design, as it improves the longevity of the bag ten fold. Open box basically means that the stitching attaching the leather to the canvas is an open square; when bags have a closed square, it creates what is basically a perforated line in the leather at the highest stress point, which heavily increases the likelihood of the strap failing. The open box stitching combined with the rivets will allow the Freight withstand a lifetime of heavy use without any signs of tearing.

Open box stitching coupled with a hinged handle and #9 rivets. This is beyond solid.
Open box stitching coupled with a hinged handle and #9 rivets. This is beyond solid.

The zippers are enormous #10 YKK zippers with beautiful leather pull tabs. YKK zippers are all metal and seriously tough. Thrux Lawrence Freight Review01 The leather is 9oz Horween Latigo, which is renowned for its durability and strength. The canvas is 24oz anti-mildew canvas — quite literally the heaviest canvas you can get. For the record, it is even heavier than the stuff that Filson uses. This canvas is beyond hefty. It is impervious to water, making this bag a great travelling companion. The clasps which attach the shoulder strap are literally durable beyond words. They are locking brass clasps that look like they can take a bunch of abuse without any problems — plus, they will not release if they are torqued a certain way, making the bag much more secure.

Check out these stellar clasps!
Check out these stellar clasps!

aesthetic

The Freight actually looks like a freight train engine. Something about the way it is shaped — with the rounded sides and flat bottom. It is in classic Thrux style: beauty through durable simplicity. The Bark on Gravel color perfectly compliments this simplistic style. The Freight, as with all Thrux bags, features a specially designed pocket for a vintage photograph, which Tanden specifically chooses for each bag. I love this — it adds a real personality, a life to the bag.

Working men.
Working men.

function

The Freight features a pen and pencils pocket and a larger pocket within the main compartment, as well as a laptop/document sleeve and a smaller zippered pocket for your essentials on the outside. The main compartment is copiously large — big enough for a month long trip, if you pack right.

The interior pen and pencils pocket.
The interior pen and pencils pocket.

The function of this bag is exceptional. Very simple — clothes in the bag, important smaller stuff on the outside. I like the simplicity, as it takes away the complicated nature of packing associated with a billion different pockets and compartments to choose from.

The exterior laptop sleeve.
The exterior laptop sleeve.

Considering the shoulder strap is basically 18oz leather (two 9oz pieces stitched together), it can be slightly uncomfortable for extended periods of use, especially when you are running through airports. I have no problems with this discomfort, however, as it indicates the incredible durability of the shoulder strap. Discomfort indicates quality in this market.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a handsome, beautifully simple, tough-as-nails duffel, look no further than the Freight from Thrux Lawrence. It will set you back $570, but you are paying for American-handmade quality the way it should be. The Freight will last you a lifetime of adventure across all corners of the globe.

Handmade in America by a guy named Zach.
Handmade in America by a guy named Zach.

Thrux Lawrence – “We Make Them Like They Used To”

Tanden Launder is a simple man with unique tastes. He wears unwashed denim (and reviews it on his Insta-blog @thedenimreview), a white v-neck t-shirt, and a pair of leather work boots. His hands are worn and rough with work — man hands. Tanden is one of the hardest working people I have met, and the efforts of his hard work have culminated into what is, really, a dream and an idea from his own head: a dream of bringing American quality back to where it was way back when, in the good old days when America was putting out the highest quality goods — period. Combining American-made quality with his own style and extreme work ethic has resulted in what is today Thrux Lawrence.

A glimpse at the studio.
A glimpse of the studio.

Thrux Lawrence

Based out of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, which is my and Tanden’s home town, Thrux Lawrence is a supplier of men’s essentials. Tanden has designed his own line of bags: The Dispatch (briefcase), the Hoist (tote), the Freight (duffel), and, of course, the Thrux Pack (backpack). He also has designed a pair of 12oz Japanese denim pants (the Paladin Pant), a line of leather key fobs (the Key Post), a leather belt (the Bulwark Belt), his signature Thrux Trays, which are basically leather bowls useful for storing basic daily items, and the Drop Dopp (a Dopp bag with signature Thrux styling). Zach Black, Tanden’s only other employee, builds each piece himself; this means that the production is extremely limited and makes each bag unique. Completely handcrafted products are hard to come by these days and it is nice to see that hand-crafted philosophy carried out in such a great way with Thrux Lawrence.

Lawrence, the mounted wildebeest head that serves as the inspiration for the name of Thrux Lawrence, presides over the shop in downtown Coeur d'Alene.
Lawrence, the mounted wildebeest head that serves as the inspiration for the name of Thrux Lawrence, presides over the shop in downtown Coeur d’Alene.

Bulwark Barber

In the room adjacent to the Thrux Lawrence shop, Tanden set up a classic barber shop. The barber shop features two vintage, restored barber chairs, periodicals, a range of apothecary, and, of course, the barber himself. The barber, Matt Roerick, will supply you with a full service, including straight razor shave, shampoo, and haircut. There are not many barber shops left, but the Bulwark is easily one of the best.

the philosophy

The philosophy of Thrux Lawrence stems almost entirely from Tanden’s thoughts on what American quality should mean. Sit down with him over a cup of coffee for 5 minutes and you will have a pretty good idea of what this philosophy is: Make American quality mean what it used to mean, before the 50’s and the rise of convenience trumping quality. His philosophy is manifested in his products, which are, quite literally, the most bombproof works of art I have ever seen.

Not only are they beautiful, the Thrux Packs are some of the most durable bags available.
Not only are they beautiful, the Thrux Packs are some of the most durable bags available.

where to find him

If you are ever travelling through Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, be sure to stop in at his brick-and-mortar for either a shave and a trim at his Bulwark Barber, the adjacent room to his shop, or to play a game of pool, or have a chat with him and reminisce about what American quality means. 206 N. Third St., Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

His goods are also available at www.thruxlawrence.com.

Thrux Lawrence.
Thrux Lawrence.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review – $450

For the past few weeks we have been reviewing the canvas and leather Dispatch messenger bag from Thrux Lawrence and are thoroughly impressed with its usability and durability. This bag is bringing serious competition to well established companies such as Filson and Duluth Trading. The Dispatch is the Thrux Lawrence model of a messenger bag. Thrux Lawrence large carry goods are all made with heavy 24 oz canvas and Horween leather.

Previously we have reviewed the Thrux Pack as well as a the Key Post from Thrux Lawrence.

Many thanks to Matt Leitholt for shooting several of these excellent photos.

aesthetic

The rule of thirds is a commonly known rule in photography and design. For some reason, things look good segmented into thirds. No one knows why but if you analyze the dimensions of an Aston Martin or a famous photo it will be designed in thirds. Much of the Dispatch design follows this rule of thirds, loosely, and consequently looks decently sharp.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review11

You can buy the Dispatch in sixteen different color variations between color options in leather and canvas. The colors are muted and tasteful and give a lot of style options. The dark burgundy leather looks more collegiate while the whisky color is more casual.

Tanden, the owner and designer of the Thrux Lawrence brand, has included some interesting visual details as well. For example, on each bag from Thrux there will be an original vintage photo slipped into a side pocket specially included for that picture.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Review21

Each bag is marked with it’s generation number and batch number since they are manufactured in limited runs.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review09

functionality

Carrying this bag on a daily basis has been enjoyable because of it’s excellent style and functionality.

The Dispatch measures 13″ tall by 16.5″ wide by 5.5″ deep which lends itself to carrying quite a bit. Plus, the flexible canvas allows more room for goodies.

Here’s a picture of the Dispatch as it went with me to Philadelphia. As you can see I have quite a bit stuffed in. A DSLR with lens, an extra lens, 13” MacBook and charger, Saddleback Leather Moleskin Cover, iPad, paperwork folder, and various sundry items like headphones and pens. It is very full. The weight of the bag was a hefty seventeen pounds.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Review31

One of the complaints with the Thrux Pack was a lack of individual storage compartments which basically forced everything into the large main compartment. This is not so with the Dispatch. There are six pockets to separate out your goodies.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review01

A zippered pocket in front sporting a #10 zipper from YKK. Plenty to hold small items such as keys and headphones.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Review photos2

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Review1

A pocket for your laptop charger. The main compartment which is obviously big enough for a large camera and an extra lens. The document pocket will fit a couple books or quite a stack of paper. Finally, the laptop slot will fit a 15” laptop nicely and even stretch for a 17″ laptop.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review02

While it will fit an enormous load I appreciated that the design looks great when not crammed full. Some bags slump and fold up if not filled to capacity and the Dispatch is not one of them thanks to the rigid double stitched leather base.

The leather handle is perfectly comfortable and is secured with four rivets and copious stitching.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review05

At first I was concerned that the gap between the side and the top flap would allow water into the bag but as soon as the bag is picked up the gap is pinched shut against the top flap by the shoulder strap.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review12

However, I do have one gripe about the shoulder strap. The snaps that hold the shoulder strap on the bag will suddenly disconnect if the strap is twisted when you pick it up due to the orientation of the d-rings pushing against the brass snap gate. Thankfully this only happens when you have a grip on the shoulder strap and only one unclips at a time so you have a chance to catch the bag before it falls on the floor with your expensive things inside. We did mention this flaw to Tanden and he is sourcing new hardware which will remedy this.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review04Update: 2/18/14

Thrux Lawrence has replaced that hideous hardware with some killer clasps. These are unlike anything I have ever seen and are perposterously expensive, but so be it. They have a locking mechanism and won’t ever repeat the mistake of the first clasp i.e. involuntarily disconnecting when the bag is picked up.

Thrux Lawrence Clasp Update2

Thrux Lawrence Clasp Update4

construction

Seventeen pounds is a lot to be carrying on one shoulder while marching through the endless corridors of the Minneapolis airport. Thankfully, one certainly doesn’t have to worry about the bag coming apart. It is built hefty. The base plate that makes up the foundation of each Thrux bag is double stitched and composed of multiple layers of leather. The leather base has a 600 pound pull apart strength, you know, just in case.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review111

The hardware is all brass, #9 solid rivets (these can break weak snips), the leather is a heavy 9-10 oz, and the 350 denier nylon thread was sourced from a top secret facility that restarted production just to supply Thrux Lawrence. The hand hammered rivets that are used pinch the leather all around it instead of letting the rivet hole take all the burden and potentially rip out.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review03

The chrome tanned leather is sourced from the well known Horween tannery which has been around since 1905. As well known and as high quality of leather that Horween produces they are not easy to purchase from. Because of the high demand for their leather it can take a while to be taken care of and I have personally heard from more than five leather companies that say wait times, shipping costs, and attention to detail is often lacking. But, the leather is good. Perhaps the recent surge of popularity in Horween goods will motivate them to improve their service.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review06

the Thrux Lawrence store

Thrux Lawrence Grand Opening10

Tanden just opened up his first store in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho and it is a visual treat. Literal bombshell light fixtures, a 1947 pool table, cafe motorcycles, an attached barbershop, and of course the Thrux Lawrence goods. It is worth a visit if you happen to be passing through Spokane or touring beautiful north Idaho.

BestLeather conclusion

At the $450 price point you have a variety of options in canvas and leather. Filson, Duluth, and Frost River come to mind. However, none of their materials compare with the heavy thread, #10 YKK zipper, lush Horween leather, 24 oz canvas (filson uses 22 oz and MUCH lighter thread). It is no contest if you are looking for a bag to serve you and your generations well.

Check out the Dispatch from Thrux Lawrence here.

Thrux Lawrence Dispatch Messenger Bag Review10

Thrux Lawrence – First Store Opening In Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

Thrux Lawrence is a relatively new men’s dry goods company that focuses on leather and canvas materials. They are local to Coeur d’Alene, my hometown, so I have been able to see their growth over time and enjoy the single-minded focus on quality. Tanden Launder, the founder, is a good friend of mine and invited me to the grand opening of his new location.

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