Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffel Review & Giveaway (Winner: Nick S.)- $655

[Congratulations to Nick S. for winning this beautiful Saddleback Leather bag out of 13,000 entries. He told me he would be using the bag for traveling and overnight trips!]

The Saddleback Leather Side Pocket Duffle is a redesigned weekender bag from Saddleback Leather. The very first thing I noticed when opened up the box was the rich, beautiful color. I own several SBL pieces in chestnut, but when I saw this one, my jaw dropped. It is positively gorgeous. I thought my other pieces were great looking, but it shocked me to see an exemplar of this idyllic hue in the real world. My other chestnut pieces are beautiful, but the color on SBL’s updated chestnut is somehow even richer.

For all of its beauty, however, there is what (initially) seems like a huge red flag: the strap containing the buckles that secure the side pocket flaps is fixed to the main pocket flap. It is just one long strap across the top of the bag that gets threaded through loops on the side pocket flaps and buckled to the side pockets themselves. This means that you cannot open the main pocket without the side pockets being unfastened. Either you travel with your side pockets unfastened, or you have to open three buckles every time you want to get into your main compartment. Opening the main flap all the way requires you to unthread that strap from the side pocket flaps. If you were opening the bag many times per day, this could get quite old.

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When I first saw this, I was surprised. Saddleback is typically very thoughtful in their designs.  SURELY, they know best and there is some brilliant reason for this that I will love once I figure it out. SURELY, they would not offer a bag with such an obvious design flaw. It seems that Dave uses his prototypes for something like 20 years to perfect them, sending a complimentary bag to Jesus of Nazareth by angelic courier via Jacob’s Ladder, and offering the remainder for sale to the rest of us.

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Then I remembered that this is luggage! The majority of my Saddleback Leather products happen to be everyday use items (like my backpack). But not so much with this one; you will put all your travel goodies in it and only open it up when you arrive.  More than likely, it will stay open on the hotel bed until you depart.

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As usual, you can see pictures and a 3D model of the bag on the Saddleback website, and you can see Dave handling the bag and commenting on it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kcf_gd-QNUQ. Also, as is par for the course, there are a number of reviews floating around on the web. The reviews on the site and on Amazon are standard SBL fare—the kind of glowing testimonials you would expect on an SBL piece.

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One issue that kept coming up is whether or not it fits into the overhead bins on various aircraft. One reviewer said it did not fit “easily” into an overhead bin on an aircraft flown by Southwest, though I assume that it ultimately did fit. Another said it fit easily into an overhead bin on a Jet Blue airplane, and a flyer in a Delta MD80 did not have any issues. In the video, Dave basically says it fits until it does not, in which case it fits below your seat. Based on the dimensions on Saddleback’s website (20.25” x 10” x 11.25”), it should be well within most airline carry-on size restrictions. If you are truly worried, you can lookup the dimensions acceptable to your airline for your upcoming flight at www.seatguru.com.

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For all of my complaining about the top flap, the five straps do add more security for checking the bag if it is unable to be a carry-on, and the flap is generous enough to keep out heavy precipitation (the lack of which on my Rustic Leather mailbag—despite how much I love it—plagues me).

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Users also seem to disagree about the utility of the interior pocket. In the video, Dave explains that it is for muddy sandals, sweaty clothes, or seashells (basically, anything you’d rather keep separate from your other garments). I say brilliant. Cut it out if it truly bothers you. It’s supposed to be floppy, but, being constructed from that nice pigskin, the one in this bag is fairly rigid (for now).

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It’s nice to see that the interior pocket is merely pigskin, and not the leather/pigskin sandwich that used to be used for literally every panel and pocket everywhere. I have an older version of the backpack, which I love, but it is quite heavy. A lot of the pigskin is just unnecessary, and it seems Saddleback has become sensitive to that. This duffle, like the newer backpacks, is constructed using a more appropriate use of pigskin (for example, the side pockets are unlined), which keeps the duffel a bit lighter.

Another deliberate aspect of the design, which I was glad to have pointed out to me, is the flat handle. I love the round briefcase handle and wish my backpack had the same. For me, it is much more satisfying to hold the rigid, round handles than the flat ones. However, they can cause problems for a bag of these dimensions when being stuffed into an overhead bin.

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From a practical standpoint, this bag should have enough space for the average adult to comfortably pack for a 2-3 day trip, minus any speciality equipment or bulky warm clothing. That said, you can fit your blueprints, map tubes, or harpoons right underneath the top flap of this bag and still fasten it closed, if you run the top strap through slits designed for this purpose. The side pockets can fit about three cans of beer.

BestLeather conclusion

This is a nice bag that is excellent for travel, but does not seem designed for the everyday grind (unless yours is at 35,000 feet in between investment property visits). Aesthetically, it is a knockout and the construction is the standard robust Saddleback Leather fare.

Check out the Side Pocket Duffel on Saddleback Leather’s website here.

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Wolverine Courtland 1000 Mile Boots – Introductory Thoughts

These Wolverine Courtlands offer style and ruggedness in a boot package which is often reserved for logging and dropping heavy things on your feet. For the sharp dressed man or woman with a penchant for the rugged yet subtle style and more protective functionality of a boot, this is a worthy option. Here are a few initial thoughts on this boot after exercising it for a month in a wide variety of situations. Of course, a full exhaustive review will be forthcoming.

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classy boots!

This is a classy boot which works with a large variety of styles. You can dress it up with some polish, wear it casual, or dress it down for this new style of leaving your boots untied in a careless hipster manner (which I do not understand, “I am so cool I don’t even tie my shoes!”). You can wear it with a nice pair of jeans or chinos and look sharp. The Chromexcel leather from Horween presents and wears well shined or unshined thanks to it’s wax impregnated texture. Chromexecel is expensive leather, consequently it also contributes to the higher price of the Courtlands. It is an ideal wearable leather for this application.

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good comfort

Some of the cheaper leather boots lack a decent cushion or arch support for your well used feet. Not so here. You get a thick goodyear welt (which provides good waterproofing) and a cork sole. After a month of heavy use, walks exceeding four miles, and plenty of on and off road trekking I still find the Courtlands impressively comfortable.

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leather soles vs rubber pads

This is my second pair of 1000 Mile Boots from Wolverine. The first pair had leather soles that I later regretted buying because of their limited traction and extra wear when exposed to water. Here in the pacific northwest hiking up a mountain in the rain is not uncommon and the restraint on use was annoying. Not to mention they needed a new sole much quicker than I expected because of the water I did expose them to. These rubber soled Courtlands are a good spring and summer boot here in the NW, not so much a winter boot. Traction on ice is still dicey with the Vibram rubber pad.

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These boots have a pad of textured rubber instead of an all leather sole and this provides some benefits over the leather sole. They are quieter, they have better (but still not as good as a full sole) traction, they have better longevity. However, the rubber pad is still held on with a heavy thread and glue that can wear out with use in water so it is not entirely an all weather boot, it is a most-weather boot. Overall, very nice boots and quite suitable for frequent use if you mind the limitations on water exposure and traction.

More to come!

Check out Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots here.

Ashland Leather Johnny the Fox Bi-fold Wallet – $200

The Ashland Leather company is maker of fine, small leather goods.  Based in Chicago, Illinois, they specialize in making high quality wallets, key fobs, key cases, and leather watch straps.  Ashland Leather was formed by two tanners from the Horween Leather Tannery.  With a knowledge of how to make superb leather, they decided that they needed to also make great products from great leather and their company was born.  BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing their Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet.

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the name

Your first question might be, “Johnny the Fox, what’s up with the name”.  That’s a good question.  Named after a 1920’s Chicago gangster who was tough as nails, this wallet is similarly tough, with a never say die construction.  All of Ashland Leather wallets have similar names from unique Chicago history. For more info on the inspiration behind the name, read here.

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the leather

The Johnny the Fox is a classic bi-fold wallet, but the fact that it is made with genuine shell cordovan from Horween, ratchets up the uniqueness and quality of the wallet a few notches.  My first impression of the wallet was that it is a very simple bifold, but as I held it, and thumbed over it, I could tell that it was not an ordinary bi-fold, and the main reason was the leather.

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Shell Cordovan is a very unique and fairly rare leather.  A small section (the shell) is taken from a horse hide and tanned by Horween to perfection.  It’s a process that they have perfected over many years, and the end product is a piece of leather that is beautiful, looks rich, and as a distinctive feel.  In fact, it takes Horween over 6 months to complete the tanning and finishing process for their Cordovan.

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Shell Cordovan is known for it’s durability, denser grain, and resistance to abrasions.  What I did not initially know about Horween’s Shell Cordovan was its high gloss finish.  This makes the wallet pop when you whip it out of your back pocket and pull out the green.

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the function

Johnny the Fox has a main compartment for your bills, along with three slots on each side of the fold for your cards.  It also has a sleeve where you can slide in additional cards or necessities.  Though not a minimalist wallet where you slip in a few cards or cash and that is it, this is a simple wallet.  Using it this past week, there was something pleasing in using a classic wallet where there was sufficient room to carry some bills, plus all of the cards that I need to use.  It is a little too thick to also be used as a front pocket wallet, but it was never meant to be.

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Ashland Leather also has high attention to detail in the crafting of their products.  This wallet had precise stitching placement, clean lines on all of the cut leather, and perfectly symmetrical.  The fine craftsmanship is a great complement to the fine leather.

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BestLeather conclusion

Ashland Leather’s Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet is simple, it is classic, and the leather is beautiful.  The quality of leather used on this wallet will ensure many years of use and abuse.  If you are in the market for a classic bi-fold, with a high degree of class, look no further than the Johnny the Fox from Ashland Leather.

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Ashland Leather’s Chromexcel Scratch Removal Guide

Chromexcel leather will scratch, scuff, and dent easily, which leads to a beautiful refined ruggedness. It’s all part of the life of leather. These scratches quickly develop a wallet into one that might be a lot like your grandfather’s– loved and used for many years. Scuffs will eventually smooth out through normal use, but we can definitely speed up the process with this method.

To make our point, we took a used Natural Chromexcel Tony the Ant, and gouged it with a fingernail. The result is a pretty obvious surface scratch. Continue reading “Ashland Leather’s Chromexcel Scratch Removal Guide”

A Vintage Filson Briefcase Computer Bag Review

A quietly vibrant city tucked into the northwestern corner of Washington State, Seattle has been home to many industries. Grunge music was born in the drizzly gray that Seattleites are so used to and with it came the article of clothing that Seattle has become most famous for: the plaid flannel shirt. A simple design born in the mountains, worn by loggers and people who just enjoy being warm, the plaid flannel shirt has been around since the beginning of Seattle when the timber industry took root in the abundant forest growth surrounding the sleepy city. And, it was because of this growing industry that Clinton C. Filson moved from Nebraska to Seattle and began outfitting loggers in flannel shirts and workwear. C.C. Filson is as much of a Seattle institution as grunge, rain, and logging. Filson was there from the beginning.

C.C. Filson

Clinton C. Filson was a Nebraskan working on the railroad in the late 1890s when he decided to uproot himself and move west to Seattle. Hearing of the growing logging industry in the Pacific Northwest and the gold rush in Alaska, he moved to the Emerald City and started a logging outfitter — designing, manufacturing, and selling quality and heroically durable goods was his specialty.

He began specifically designing gear for prospectors heading north to Alaska — clothing, blankets, sleeping bags, and boots. This was the beginning of Filson as we know it — then known as C.C. Filson’s Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers.

In 1899, he shifted his focus to hunting, fishing, and logging. And thus, C.C. Filson was born. The company remained in the Filson family until 1981 when it was sold to Stan Kohls, a skiwear designer who brought the production up from 35 to over 250 goods, all the while refraining from modern technology so as to retain the authenticity of the product. Quality. Durability. American made.

In 2005, Filson was bought by Brentwood Associates and then sold again to Bedrock Manufacturing Co., out of Texas. Though ownership of the company has changed hands numerous times, their attention to quality, craftsmanship, and durability has never fallen by the wayside. Filson products are built to last.

the story of my bag

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My father bought one of the first generations of briefcases released by Filson in the early 90’s. He is a doctor and therefore works obscene hours — both at the office and at home. Lugging patient files around was something he knew he was going to have to do and, knowing he was going to have to do it every day, back and forth, he wanted something that was going to be up for the job. Filson became his top choice and he bought a large briefcase/computer bag — one of the first of the line. When he purchased the smaller Original Briefcase a few years ago, he gave me his original Filson bag.

Since he bought the bag, it has been all over the globe. It has toured Europe multiple times, it has felt the moisture of a Seattle drizzle, it has felt the heat of Arizona, braved the snow of B.C., been in two-seater planes, been strapped to the pannier rack of a bicycle, trekked through the forest on adventures — in short, there are few places that my bag has not been. It has seen the world.

And it wants to see more.

construction

A huge YKK zipper and double stitched leather means this thing isn't going anywhere.
A huge YKK zipper and double stitched leather means this thing isn’t going anywhere.

There is one word to describe the construction of a Filson product — bombproof. With a combination of oiled twill canvas and bridle leather bound by double stitching and a doubled canvas bottom, as soon as you even lay eyes on this thing, you know that it is not going anywhere. The Filson is built for life and everything that life throws at it along the way.

The roller buckle on the shoulder strap helps preserve the leather -- basically, this is how my strap is still functioning.
The roller buckle on the shoulder strap helps preserve the leather — basically, this is how my strap is still functioning.

The canvas is Filson’s own 22oz 100% Cotton Oil Finish Rugged Twill. 22oz. This stuff is beyond bombproof — it’s nuke proof. Well, maybe not quite that strong, but it will take absolutely everything you can throw at it.

The classic Filson handle. You can see how the leather looked when it was new as compared to how it looks used.
The classic Filson handle. You can see how the leather looked when it was new as compared to how it looks used.

The doubled bottom of the bag is a defining feature of Filson bags; basically, two layers of their canvas are stitched together, then used for the bottom of the bag. Two layers of 22oz canvas basically turns the bottom of the bag into 44oz canvas and will therefore take the abuse of a ridiculous amount of weight and pressure. You really can put anything in this bag and know that it won’t be going anywhere.

The YKK zipper is covered by a flap of oiled canvas for good security and water protection.
The YKK zipper is covered by a flap of oiled canvas for good security and water protection.

aesthetic

The Filson Briefcase is a classic look that really will not ever go out of style. Filson has mastered the definining canvas/leather combination that most other companies strive to emulate. The best part? It only gets better with age.

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With tan canvas and dark brown leather, the Filson bag has the feel of a rugged, yet collegiate workhorse. In other words, this bag is as at home in your office as it is deep in the woods of British Columbia or on the deck of a commercial salmon boat in the frothing waves of the Pacific or in a cafe in downtown Portland or Seattle. This bag really fits in all places with all styles; it is an aesthetic jack-of-all-trades.

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This bag has remained unchanged in style and aesthetic since it was released in the early 90’s. The new bags look identical to my vintage bag, and I really like that. The only difference is that my bag has obviously seen 20+ years of heavy use and wear, but I think the beautiful patina that my bag has devoloped over the years of use makes it look even better.

The patina that appears with wear is really the best aesthetic feature of this bag. The dirt, ink stains, wear around the edges, and scuffs and dull glow of well-worn leather give this bag life. In other words, this is a product that grows with you. As you use it, as you live with it; as you yourself grow, the bag grows with you. I really like buying a product that is aesthetically good when you buy it and even better after 20 years of use.

function

With a laptop sleeve, two separate document sleeves, copious amounts of pockets for pens, pencils, laptop chargers, and not to mention the cavernous space in between the designated pockets, plus the two exterior file pockets, this bag certainly is not lacking in space. Plus, it is comfortable to wear and carry and gives easy access to the main compartment. The function of this bag, really, is fantastic.

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Use it for school, use it for work, use it for life, coffeeshop runs, daily errands, travel, whatever your needs may be, this bag will meet it with a grin. And you’ll look classically rugged while doing it, so it’s definitely a win-win. The fact of the matter is that men who use Filson bags are 67% more likely to attract a female than men who don’t. *

*Though women do, in fact, dig men who wear Filson (as we are ruggedly handsome, yet stylish as well), this statistic does not reflect actual population, just the opinions and observations of a male with a Filson bag.

BestLeather conclusion

Because this is a vintage bag and personal to me, I obviously cannot recommend that you go out and buy this specific bag. I can however, recommend that you buy a new Filson bag.

Why? A Filson bag seems to transcend “bag”. It transcends “briefcase”, it transcends “tool”, it transcends “case”. The Filson bag really will become your companion, your friend. It grows with you, it lives with you, goes where you go, carries what you carry, and becomes what you are, essentially. For instance, if you are a businessman, the bag will wear with your documents. If you are a student, the bag will wear with your books and your laptop. If you are an outdoorsman, nature will imbue itself in the canvas. In other words, this bag is not just a bag. It is so much more than that. It becomes something that you appreciate more and more each and every day, as it grows with age and use and becomes better and better. This is a bag not only built and meant for life, but built with a life.

A genuine Filson.
A genuine Filson.

Gfeller Casemakers Notebook Cover Review – $73.50

Gfeller Casemaker is an artisan maker of fine leather goods based in Meridian, Idaho.  Established in 1946, Gfeller originally was founded to provide highly durable leather cases and tool holders for the geoscience community (click here for an article on our recent visit to the Gfeller shop).  Today, Gfeller continues to make goods for this community, but has expanded into goods of equally functional, but more universal applications, like their moleskine notebook covers.  I had the opportunity of reviewing their 5” by 8 ¼” notebook cover.

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leather

Gfeller’s notebook cover is made of 2 – 3 ounce, vegetable tanned, fine calfskin leather.  This is the same type of leather you’ll find on a pair of fine, handmade shoes like Allen Edmond’s The Strand.  This leather is known for it’s tighter grain pattern, it’s high ability to resist minor scratches, it’s lightweight but firm feel, and it’s noticeable shine.  The feel of this leather was the first thing that really caught my attention.  It is a leather than is more fine than what you will see on high quality bags and apparel.  It is very thin, but there is a certain heft to it that is pleasurable.  The color of their notebook covers are a natural tan, the type that darkens beautifully with use and exposure.

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style

Gfeller has certainly made their notebook covers with loads of style.  Though the notebook cover appears to be precision made by a machine, it is in fact made by hand.  It has clean lines and laser straight stitching. The thread that Gfeller uses is a bonded polyester in Pebble Beige color, which is manufactured by Coats.  The color is a nice complement to the natural tan of the leather, and the polyester thread means ultra durable strength and uv resistance for long life.

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function

Gfeller’s notebook cover does precisely what it is supposed to, cover your notebook in beautiful leather.  Gfeller added a little more function than a simple notebook sheath though and cut a hammerhead slit on the back cover, to allow room for the elastic straps common on moleskine and similar covers to come out.  This avoids an unsightly bump, but also allows you to use the band to keep your place in your notebook.  It is a smart and functional design.

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BestLeather conclusion

If you are looking for a notebook cover with an extra measure of polish and class, look no further than Gfeller Casemakers notebook covers.  They have covers in a variety of sizes, so chances are, they will have one that fits your need.  The price point of $73.50 is right for a cover of this quality and it will undoubtedly last a lifetime.

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Exquisite Bison Leather iPhone Sleeve Review – $75

In the scorching heat of Arizona, companies bring a different sense of style and design to leatherwork compared to styles found in the colder climes of the north. The necessity for cool is extremely prevalent, and therefore, designs found in Arizona are much lighter, designed to give off a sense of cool and lightness and above all, a sense of style that feels at home in the desert. And nobody does this better than Bison.

Bison

Based in Phoenix, Bison is a company with cool and style in mind. They design and build all of their products as works of art as well as works of modern engineering and use only American sourced materials. All of their products are built by hand with no glue or rubber — what you see is what you get. And I really like that.

construction

The iPhone 5 Wallet uses American-sourced leather and polyester thread. Really, that’s all there is to it. Two ingredients combined to make a perfectly simple piece of leatherwork.

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The leather, as I mentioned, is American-sourced. It is relatively thin leather, maybe 2-3oz, and extremely soft to the touch, which I rather prefer in an iPhone sleeve. Thick leather is hard to get in and out of your pocket and it makes it hard to insert and remove the phone. It is a single piece of chrome tanned leather, which is really well burnished and finished to an exquisitely soft touch.

The stitching is done by hand with polyester thread. The polyester has the same qualities and function as nylon, but will not deteriorate with exposure UV rays. This comes in handy under the bright sun that can weaken thread with long term exposure.

The construction of this piece really is fantastic. I love how simple it is and how well it is done. The stitching feels strong and solid and the leather is soft to the touch.

aesthetic

This iPhone sleeve exudes simplicity. Made from a single piece of leather stitched to itself in two places, you really can’t get much more simple than that. And yet, Bison added a few aesthetic features that add so much to the personality of this product.

The sleeve (whiskey) is dyed to perfection. It comes out of the box in a beautiful whiskey amber color and then darkens with each day of use, getting more and more beautiful each day. This is complemented with light brown thread, which adds to the overall appeal as well.

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The stitching is a huge aesthetic component to this sleeve. It is so delightfully simple. It is stitched in just two places, along the bottom and along the side. Nothing extra. There really is nothing else to this sleeve, which makes it so much better in my opinion. Nothing to distract you from it’s sole function, nothing to snag in your pocket as you carry it around, it’s just perfectly simple.

The branding on the back of the sleeve is absolutely fantastic. It is of a rearing bison preparing to charge. The simplicity and beauty of this logo really add a lot to this piece.

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function

The iPhone 5 Wallet was actually designed with two functions — an iPhone sleeve combined with a minimal wallet. I personally have only used the iPhone sleeve function, but I love the idea that you can combine the two and simplify your life even more.

Basically, it’s what it sounds like. The iPhone (caseless) goes into the sleeve to protect it from your pocket. In that light, it really does it’s job well. The leather is thin enough to accommodate the iPhone without much added bulk and it’s slick enough to slide easily in and out of your pocket. The iPhone is easily slid into the sleeve and is securely held there until you remove it. The leather really adds a surprising amount of protection from encounters with gravity. More so than I would have expected, I’ll be honest. I dropped it out of my car the other day and all it did was add some character to the leather. Fantastic.

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The attached wallet is a great idea. All it is is just a simple pocket found on the front of the sleeve, big enough for a few folded bills and a card or two. The simplicity that can be found in that is fantastic. Say you’re going for a run or something and you want to take some money to stop at the coffee shop on the way back, just stash a 5 in the pocket and you’re good to go. Or, if you’re like me and you spend all your money on espresso, stash a 5 in the front pocket for that one time that you run out of cash in your wallet and you really need that caffeine fix. Call it a rainy day fund of sorts.

BestLeather conclusion

Prior to this, I had an OtterBox, a Lifeproof, and one of the new Apple iPhone 5 cases. There is a trend here: thick, big, clunky. Not simple. Granted, I was moving in the right direction with the Apple case, but that really isn’t a quality case and wouldn’t do much if I dropped the phone.

Sleeves provide a great amount of protection and simplicity. Plus, you get to enjoy the feel of a naked iPhone. So, if you are in the market for a sleeve and you have an appreciation for style and simplicity, Bison makes a great option for you.

At $75, you’re really getting a lot for your money. Not only do you receive a quality product that feels and looks great, you receive a product that was fully American-sourced and built by hand.

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How Leather Is Graded And Selected At Danner Boots

Crafting Higher Standards – Leather from Alex Hamlin on Vimeo.

Danner Boots are sending a pair of boots for review at BestLeather.org and we are excited to understand their dedication to craftsmanship more. Till then this video has to tide us over and we thought you would enjoy it as well.

Since leather is an organic material it is not consistent in thickness or usability so each hide must be graded. What the graders are looking for are no fatty stretch marks that are found around the shoulders and lower girth of the hide, they don’t want scars or bite marks, what they want is thick consistent leather that will look and wear uniformly. As such, much of the “junk” leather is either tossed or repurposed for other less significant duties.

E3 Supply Co. DSLR Wrist Strap Review – $23

David Browning and Mai Kato, owners of E3 Supply Co. come from two separate fields of business. David owns and operates a custom motorcycle shop, East Third Motorcycle Club, and prior to that he was shooting fashion and editing music. Mai was a graphic designer. These two minds came together and, using the inspirations found from the simplicity of vintage motorcycles, the recognition that simplicity is necessary and better in photography, and the knowledge of design in modern society, created E3 Supply Co.

The E3 Supply Co. is based and run in New York. They specialize in camera straps, building each piece by hand from high quality materials. Using their combined knowledge of the different aspects of design, David and Mai create high quality, simple, and functional products.

construction

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The DSLR Wrist Strap is built simple, but strong. It is a half inch strip of leather bound together by hand waxed hemp cord. Seems simple enough.

The leather is a heavyweight cowhide, which is brushed on the underside for next-to-skin comfort. It is a thick and solid leather, one that will definitely stand up to the abuses of photo shoots and excursions into the forest.

E3 hand waxes the hemp used to bind this strap together, which is definitely cool. Hemp is a strong material and they wrap it heavily, so you need not worry about this thing coming apart. It is built to last. Another strap that we have reviewed from E3 Supply Co has been in service for a year now and shows little sign of degradation.

The connection between the camera and the strap is a simple steel keyring, one that will absolutely catch and hold the camera if it were to fall. I know because I have tested it. With a direct connection between the camera and the strap, you don’t need to worry about destroying your $3000 investment; once this strap is connected to your wrist, the camera is not going anywhere.

aesthetic

The strap is simple and does away with the needless bulk of a neck strap. It looks clean and it is definitely aesthetically pleasing, much more so than the stock nylon straps of DSLRs today.

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function

To test the function of the strap, I attached my DSLR with one of the stock lenses to the strap, then to my wrist, then I let it go. There are two factors which play into the strength of this strap. The materials and the length.

Leather is a tough and durable material to be using, which is why I love it so much. It’s extremely difficult to tear and cut if you take care of it properly. Thus, dropping a few pounds onto it in a jarring motion isn’t going to cause the leather to break a sweat. And the hemp cord is extremely durable as well, especially in the way that E3 used it.

The camera only will fall a few inches before the strap catches it, so you really need not worry about your investment falling to its demise on the concrete.

There is a minimalist aspect to the function of this strap as well, which seems to be the case in a lot ventures with leather. Simple is always better. Taking away the bulk and constraints of a full neck strap, it creates much more versatility in shooting. For instance, you can easily get interesting shots from different distances and angles. The fact that you are not hindered by the length of a neck strap really frees you in photography, opening new avenues of artistic expression.

BestLeather Conclusion

Most DSLRs are sold with a neck strap, a piece of nylon which goes around your neck to secure the camera. I’ve been using the stock strap since I bought my camera and have always been a bit annoyed by the bulk of it and have always thought it was unnecessary.

The only constraint to your photography becomes the length of your arm; it opens up new ways to shoot. And for only $23. For that reason, if you are in the market for a new camera strap for your DSLR because you are annoyed with the lack of freedom a neck strap provides, you have stumbled upon the answer: The DSLR Wrist Strap from E3 Supply Co.. If you, however, would prefer a neck strap with the same aesthetic as the wrist strap, E3 also makes a neck strap, using similar design and construction.

Check out the E3 Supply Co Etsy page here.

This Man Wanted A Successor For His Custom Boot Company So He Offered To Teach The Buyer Everything He Knows

This is a fascinating story. George ran a custom boot making company in Harper, Oregon and he wanted to pass his trade on to someone that will do his legacy justice. What is interesting to me about this is that he even needed to make a video (which was quite beautiful) and put the word out that he is willing to train. How lazy and inept does our culture need to be that it is this hard to find an apprentice?

It would take a long time to develop those skills on your own and here George offered to train someone to take over his business when they buy it.

Thankfully a buyer has been found. We reached out to Bowen Ames who was the art director on the project and he told us that while a good buyer has been found they are keeping their information anonymous until the sale is completed.

We have reached out to George to learn more about his company and to hopefully assist him in finding a suitable successor.

Photo credit goes to Neil Dacosta.

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Waskerd Pinnell Money Clip Wallet Review – $78

Derek Shaw, located in Philadelphia, really exemplifies the spirit of Philadelphia in his designs and business model. They are simple and effective. He realized that life was much better in the old days, when people knew the process behind everything they consumed and knew exactly where everything came from. In other words, true hand-crafted quality. Not to mention he values simplicity and minimalist qualities in his designs. His company is actually called Waskerd Slim Wallets, which should really say enough. His products are designed with simplicity and attention to detail in the quality and construction.

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The Pinnell is created from a single strip of full grain leather, which is then stitched together using a durable polyester thread. This wallet features a simple, hand-forged stainless steel cash hanger, and can hold, according to the Waskerd website, 4 cards and 10+ bills at a time. I’ve managed to fit 5 plastic cards and a few paper punch cards to the local coffee shop, and it is snug.

The stitching is done entirely by hand. Entirely. Derek punches all the holes and sews the thing together himself, which takes a considerable amount of time, patience, and effort. The quality and the craftsmanship of the Pinnell becomes evident upon closer inspection of the stitching. It’s arrow straight, but with the slight abnormalities that are present with hand-stitched items: i.e. a bump here, a divot there.

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The cash hangar is a hand-forged piece of stainless steel and it serves its job well. It grips the bills well and features the timeless look of stainless steel.

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aesthetic

The Pinnell is clean. Simply put, it is clean; however, it is a different kind of clean, one that features a personality. What I mean is that this is not a clean cut, stainless steel and black stone modern Swedish building. It is not black and white. Rather, this wallet is simple, clean, and yet somehow teeming with color and energy, which speaks to the soul of the designer, and features a bit of its own soul.

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The stitching is a major part of the aesthetic and contrasts the leather really rather well. I have the Hereford Red with white stitching and the contrast is really striking.

The wallet is designed with simple lines. Right angles, rectangles, simple and timeless. The subtle curve of the card pockets really adds to the effect as well, bringing yet another aesthetically pleasing contrast to the piece.

function

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Right now, I have about 5 cards, a few punch cards and 8 bills or so, and the pockets don’t seem over-stressed or stretched. The Waskerd website says that it’ll hold 4 cards and 10+ bills, but you can definitely fit 6 or 7 cards, and a surplus of bills with no issues. The leather will also stretch if required.

The cash hanger is snug, which I suppose is a good thing, unless you are OCD about your bill placement like I am. If you are the type of person who likes to have all of his bills facing one direction and placed in order of value, this wallet could be a bit frustrating for you. For instance, if you have a twenty, a ten, a few fives, and a few ones and you want to insert another ten, the only really way to do it without crumpling/tearing the bill is pulling all of your cash out, re-organizing, then re-inserting your cash into the hanger. This really is not an issue, though, as long as you are patient. And it’s non-existent if you are a normal and sane person, but worth mentioning nonetheless.

BestLeather conclusion

I am new to the world of money clip style wallets. Aesthetically, it’s a great way to do things. Really simple, clean, functional. As I have quickly learned, minimalist wallets are really the way to go. The Waskerd Pinnell is a gorgeous approach to minimal wallets and a great approach to money clip wallets. The price, at $78, is very reasonable considering the amount of time and effort and care it takes to put this thing together. So, if you are in the market for a money clip wallet, this is a solid option. If you are in the market for a minimal wallet this is also a great option. BestLeather.org has a surplus of reviews on cool, minimal wallets, most of which are in or below this price range, including the Craft & Lore 5 Port, and a few from Saddleback. However, if money clips are your game, then game on because this wallet is for you.

Check out the Pinnell Money Clip from Waskerd here.

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With Gfeller Casemakers On A Shop Visit

Gfeller Casemakers is a producer of fine leather goods in Meridian, Idaho, with a long tradition of excellence.  I met Steve Derricott, the owner of Gfeller (pronounced with the G) on a chilly winters morning at his shop in Meridian.  I had a great visit as Steve game me a history of Gfeller and we discussed his product line and his continuous commitment to quality.

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My first impression of his shop was that this is a true leather craftsman’s shop.  Upon entering, you are immediately welcomed by the scent of freshly worked leather.  You notice that many of the workbenches and shelving are custom made. Many of the tool sheaths were made of fine leather by Steve himself.  His polishing and burnishing wheel, for example, needed a custom cover and Steve created a beautifully tooled and formed leather.  Why buy when you can make?

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history

Gfeller Casemakers was founded by Roy Gfeller in 1946 in Colorado.  A saddle maker by trade, Roy’s proximity to  the United States Geological Society prompted a request for him to create some custom cases for geologist field gear.  It was imperative that these cases could withstand some serious use and abuse and would not break down.  Roy became known for using the highest quality materials, and producing the highest quality goods.  Upon Roy’s passing in 1985, Gfeller became available for purchase.  Steve Derricott heard of this and after some inquiry and time spent at the company, purchased the company and moved it to the Boise, Idaho area.  The timing was perfect for Steve.  As a geologist himself, and as someone who had used Gfeller products, he was ready for a change and ready to spend less time on the road.  Steve made a decision at that time to stay committed to Roy’s standard of quality.  Steve was able to expand the business, and branch out into other high quality leather products.

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product line

Gfeller Casemakers has three general product lines: geoscience bags and goods, notebooks and small personal items, and custom leather goods.  Gfeller has been secured as a maker of fine goods by the likes of Chris Reeves, Tegam, West Point, and others.  They make custom knife sheaths, tool carriers, saber belts, cartridge boxes, etc.  Steve has made a conscious decision to stay away from horse tack and sporting goods.  Steve has provided the opportunity for BestLeather.org to review a couple of his products, a notebook cover and an iPhone 5 case.  Reviews for those two products will be posted soon.

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commitment to quality

One of the things that I admired the most with Gfeller was their commitment to continuing Roy Gfeller’s tradition of using the highest quality materials and the best processes, in order to produce the best product.  It’s the type of thing that we at BestLeather.org love to see.  Upon acquiring Gfeller, Steve made the decision to use the Hermann Oak Tannery for all of it’s leather.  Hermann Oak has long had a tradition of producing fine finished leather.  Many of the goods we have reviewed at Best Leather use Hermann Oak leather as well, in fact.

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This fact is no coincidence.  Part of the reasoning for this choice was consistency and efficiency.  Using the same high quality tannery results in consistently getting high quality leather, which Gfeller customers demand.  Also, using leather from the same tannery increases efficiency.  Gfeller is able to use pieces from different hides in constructing different bags and products.  This efficiency reduces waste and saves money, which allows Gfeller to sell high quality products at reasonable prices.

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Another interesting conversation that I had with Steve related to the type of thread they use for their bags.  On all of their geoscience bags, Gfeller uses linen thread, like Italian fine leather shoemakers.  Many high quality leather goods makers currently use synthetic threads for their bags, mostly polyester and nylon.  Like Roy Gfeller before him, Steve has chosen linen thread as a matter of appropriateness.  Linen, as it turns out, is a good match for leather, strength for strength.  Polyester thread can actually tear through leather stitching, linen is not likely to do so.  A look at a wall full of old Gfeller bags, at the Gfeller Casemaker’s shop, shows that this thread can pass the test of time, just like fine leather.  I appreciate this attention and thought to detail.  It’s this attention to detail and good business practices that has kept Gfeller thriving.

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business practices

It goes without saying that a quality leather good doesn’t become that way by chance.  Gfeller’s reputation for high quality goods depends on it’s adherence to best practices and efficiencies.  For example, Steve pointed out to me, quality assurance is as important as, if not more important that, quality control.  Quality assurance demands maintaining quality throughout the production process.  If a defect of some sort is discovered during the production process, the defect is fixed or discarded immediately.  This ensures that quality control is a breeze.

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Steve also devotes considerable attention to utilizing the most appropriate machines in production of Gfeller’s goods.  The tool, or machine used, makes all of the difference in the efficiency of one’s operation.  At Gfeller’s, you’ll find die presses, industrial sewing machines, polishing wheels, hand tools, etc.  These tools were all acquired to increase efficiency, maximize man hours, and allow Gfeller to offer high value in the products they sell.

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BestLeather conclusion

My visit to Gfeller’s shop gave me a greater appreciation for the work of fine leather craftsman.  Steve Derricott is a man devoted to maintaining a tradition of excellence.  This was evident from the hand made tool sheaths, to the perfectly punched hide hung on the wall, to the fine leather cases and goods being made to order.

You can visit Gfeller Casemakers Website by clicking here.

Below is a series of photos documenting the process of completing a Gfeller compass case, from soaking in water to burnishing, cleaning up with a deer antler to forming, riveting, oiling and done.

Steve, thank you very much for your time and open access to your operation! Very enjoyable!

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Basäder Handmade Leather Belt Review in Dark Blue – $55

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Based in the bustling streets of Brooklyn, it is very easy to see the motive for Philip and Elin Antonelli’s designs: life in the city. Philip and Elin began Basäder on Etsy (read more about that here), an online hub for local startups and people looking to buy cool things.

They began by making artisan leather bags, one of which had the honor of being the first bag reviewed by BestLeather, the Messer Messenger Bag, and they soon expanded their line of hand-crafted leather goods to include multiple briefcases and satchels, as well as totes, keychains, and belts.

The Basäder Shop in Brooklyn, NY
The Basäder Shop in Brooklyn, NY

construction

Basäder uses nylon thread in concordance with copper rivets to hold this strikingly beautiful blue belt together. The buckle is made of copper as well, and features an antique burnished look. The leather is 7oz vegetable tanned, which is then dyed blue (dark blue model). the rivets are tough solid hand hammered rivets which will excel hollow rivets by a wide margin. Solid rivets will break a weak pair of snips, that’s how tough they are.

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That blue color is very striking with denim.
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No doubt it would go well with a pair of chinos as well.

This belt is not dyed all the way through the leather. In other words, the blue will fade with time, which would give way for an interesting patina; however, if you are in search of a belt that will not fade, this belt, especially in this color, may not be for you.

function

A belt has a very simple purpose, one that may seem comical, but it is the truth. A belt is designed for the sole purpose of holding one’s pants up. Does the Basäder hold my pants up? Yes, it absolutely does. It is thin enough to fit through my belt loops and substantially thick enough to hold up to daily uses.

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That subtle scratch shows how the blue coating doesn’t permeate the vegetable tanned leather.

aesthetic

When a boutique leather company such as Basäder designs a belt, they go into it with an intent in addition to the purpose of holding the wearer’s pants up: uniqueness. There are thousands of belts out there and when you’re a cool but small company such as Basäder, you have to find a way to get your foot in the door with customers. In other words, you have to find a hook, a catch that draws customers and leather aficionados alike to the till. You have to make the belt stand out. And this belt definitely does.

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Jax Chemicals makes a very nice solution for antiquing brass pieces like this.

The blue dye is extremely striking. I’ve had people comment on the color. People commented on my belt. This belt really is unique. The blue combined with the copper rivets and buckle really creates a cool, striking, and extremely interesting accessory, one that is definitely unique. I mean, how many other blue belts with copper hardware have you seen?

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It’s a sharp looking belt.

BestLeather conclusion

This belt is, in a word, beautiful. I’m not really sure what it is, but I really like the way that it catches the light and how the light plays with the minor abnormalities in the leather. It’s very captivating. For $55, you’re getting a great piece of leatherwork. In this same price range, we also have the Woodnsteel vegetable tanned belt, which is a similar and sizeable comparison. I, personally, would take the Basäder over the Woodnsteel, as I prefer the copper hardware and the overall aesthetic. The Basäder is worth the money. As far as leather belts go, $55 is a great price and for it, you will be receiving a great product.

Buying Cheap: How It Costs You More When You Could Have High Quality And Durability

There is a famous quote by Mahatma Ghandi

“Its a tragedy of the first magnitude that millions of people have ceased to use their hands as hands. Nature has bestowed upon us this great gift which is our hands. If the craze for machinery methods continues, it is highly likely that a time will come when we shall be so incapacitated and weak that we shall begin to curse ourselves for having forgotten the use of the living machines given to us by God.”

– Mahatma Ghandi

Continue reading “Buying Cheap: How It Costs You More When You Could Have High Quality And Durability”

Avund Goods Forsta V Wallet Review – $119

Avund Goods is an artisan leather goods maker with a singular focus on designing and crafting the finest leather goods. I have had the opportunity of spending the last few weeks with their Forsta V Wallet.Avund Goods Forsta V Wallet Review09

packaging

Packaging is often not a major consideration of most goods makers. There are exceptions to this though, and often when there is a lot of attention spent on the packaging of a product, you know that the product itself is going to be special (think Apple products or the Nest thermostat). Elegant packaging, elegant products.

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After opening the UPS package from Avund, I was welcomed by simple brown packaging paper, with the Avund Goods stamp, tied with blue lace. After opening the packaging, I was welcomed again with the wallet wrapped in a small burlap pouch. I immediately thought that this is a company that knows what it is doing and how to set itself apart. Needless to say, I was excited to get to the goods.

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attention to detail

It was clear after spending a few minutes with the Forsta V Wallet, that Avund spares no attention to detail. The wallet is made from 100%, full grain vegetable tanned leather, which arguably produces the most durable leather. The wallet is a gorgeous light golden brown leather, with a V-shaped slot in the middle, where you can keep several credit cards on each side. I currently have 4 cards per side and I could probably squeeze one more to each side if I wanted.

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The wallet is a classic bi-fold, with the bill compartment just tall enough for your cash. If I had it my way, I’d make the wallet about ⅛ of an inch taller, so I could carry a few more bills without them hanging over the edge, but this design forces me to not try and stuff more than I should in my wallet. The wallet is intentionally slim, but substantial enough to carry the necessities.

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Porsche of wallets

You can tell a big difference when you drive a finely tuned, precision machine like a Porsche and when you sit behind the wheel of a Chevy Sedan. Similarly, you can immediately tell a big difference between the Forsta V and your run of the mill leather wallet. The Forsta V is leaps and bounds more sophisticated and crafted. Every edge of the wallet has been either highly burnished with beeswax, or beveled to create an elegant look, and in most cases both. Even the finely beveled edges have been burnished to a crisp black. The blue, waxed linen thread is stitched evenly and is straight as an arrow. In fact, it took Avund three weeks of testing and prototyping to determine the appropriate hole configuration for the most pleasing aesthetics and performance.

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The Forsta V is made from one solitary piece of leather, folded over twice. This eliminates the need for unnecessary stitching and therefore less chance of a stitch coming loose or a seam breaking. This simple design further ensures that the wallet will last a lifetime. Also, the V that is cut out of the middle of this piece of leather, is actually used to craft another product that Avund sells, the Changer V. Talk about efficient use of materials.

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The confluence of these details is analogous to the crafting and putting together of that famous little sports car, a product that is sure to please and is sure to work just like it is supposed to.

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bestleather conclusion

The Forsta V from Avund Goods is an expertly crafted wallet with high attention to detail and design. You would be hard pressed to find a wallet this is better made and that is more sophisticated. It really is the Porsche of wallets.

Click Here to Visit Avund Goods

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