How Leather Is Graded And Selected At Danner Boots

Crafting Higher Standards – Leather from Alex Hamlin on Vimeo.

Danner Boots are sending a pair of boots for review at BestLeather.org and we are excited to understand their dedication to craftsmanship more. Till then this video has to tide us over and we thought you would enjoy it as well.

Since leather is an organic material it is not consistent in thickness or usability so each hide must be graded. What the graders are looking for are no fatty stretch marks that are found around the shoulders and lower girth of the hide, they don’t want scars or bite marks, what they want is thick consistent leather that will look and wear uniformly. As such, much of the “junk” leather is either tossed or repurposed for other less significant duties.

E3 Supply Co. DSLR Wrist Strap Review – $23

David Browning and Mai Kato, owners of E3 Supply Co. come from two separate fields of business. David owns and operates a custom motorcycle shop, East Third Motorcycle Club, and prior to that he was shooting fashion and editing music. Mai was a graphic designer. These two minds came together and, using the inspirations found from the simplicity of vintage motorcycles, the recognition that simplicity is necessary and better in photography, and the knowledge of design in modern society, created E3 Supply Co.

The E3 Supply Co. is based and run in New York. They specialize in camera straps, building each piece by hand from high quality materials. Using their combined knowledge of the different aspects of design, David and Mai create high quality, simple, and functional products.

construction

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The DSLR Wrist Strap is built simple, but strong. It is a half inch strip of leather bound together by hand waxed hemp cord. Seems simple enough.

The leather is a heavyweight cowhide, which is brushed on the underside for next-to-skin comfort. It is a thick and solid leather, one that will definitely stand up to the abuses of photo shoots and excursions into the forest.

E3 hand waxes the hemp used to bind this strap together, which is definitely cool. Hemp is a strong material and they wrap it heavily, so you need not worry about this thing coming apart. It is built to last. Another strap that we have reviewed from E3 Supply Co has been in service for a year now and shows little sign of degradation.

The connection between the camera and the strap is a simple steel keyring, one that will absolutely catch and hold the camera if it were to fall. I know because I have tested it. With a direct connection between the camera and the strap, you don’t need to worry about destroying your $3000 investment; once this strap is connected to your wrist, the camera is not going anywhere.

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The strap is simple and does away with the needless bulk of a neck strap. It looks clean and it is definitely aesthetically pleasing, much more so than the stock nylon straps of DSLRs today.

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function

To test the function of the strap, I attached my DSLR with one of the stock lenses to the strap, then to my wrist, then I let it go. There are two factors which play into the strength of this strap. The materials and the length.

Leather is a tough and durable material to be using, which is why I love it so much. It’s extremely difficult to tear and cut if you take care of it properly. Thus, dropping a few pounds onto it in a jarring motion isn’t going to cause the leather to break a sweat. And the hemp cord is extremely durable as well, especially in the way that E3 used it.

The camera only will fall a few inches before the strap catches it, so you really need not worry about your investment falling to its demise on the concrete.

There is a minimalist aspect to the function of this strap as well, which seems to be the case in a lot ventures with leather. Simple is always better. Taking away the bulk and constraints of a full neck strap, it creates much more versatility in shooting. For instance, you can easily get interesting shots from different distances and angles. The fact that you are not hindered by the length of a neck strap really frees you in photography, opening new avenues of artistic expression.

BestLeather Conclusion

Most DSLRs are sold with a neck strap, a piece of nylon which goes around your neck to secure the camera. I’ve been using the stock strap since I bought my camera and have always been a bit annoyed by the bulk of it and have always thought it was unnecessary.

The only constraint to your photography becomes the length of your arm; it opens up new ways to shoot. And for only $23. For that reason, if you are in the market for a new camera strap for your DSLR because you are annoyed with the lack of freedom a neck strap provides, you have stumbled upon the answer: The DSLR Wrist Strap from E3 Supply Co.. If you, however, would prefer a neck strap with the same aesthetic as the wrist strap, E3 also makes a neck strap, using similar design and construction.

Check out the E3 Supply Co Etsy page here.

This Man Wanted A Successor For His Custom Boot Company So He Offered To Teach The Buyer Everything He Knows

This is a fascinating story. George ran a custom boot making company in Harper, Oregon and he wanted to pass his trade on to someone that will do his legacy justice. What is interesting to me about this is that he even needed to make a video (which was quite beautiful) and put the word out that he is willing to train. How lazy and inept does our culture need to be that it is this hard to find an apprentice?

It would take a long time to develop those skills on your own and here George offered to train someone to take over his business when they buy it.

Thankfully a buyer has been found. We reached out to Bowen Ames who was the art director on the project and he told us that while a good buyer has been found they are keeping their information anonymous until the sale is completed.

We have reached out to George to learn more about his company and to hopefully assist him in finding a suitable successor.

Photo credit goes to Neil Dacosta.

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Waskerd Pinnell Money Clip Wallet Review – $78

Derek Shaw, located in Philadelphia, really exemplifies the spirit of Philadelphia in his designs and business model. They are simple and effective. He realized that life was much better in the old days, when people knew the process behind everything they consumed and knew exactly where everything came from. In other words, true hand-crafted quality. Not to mention he values simplicity and minimalist qualities in his designs. His company is actually called Waskerd Slim Wallets, which should really say enough. His products are designed with simplicity and attention to detail in the quality and construction.

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The Pinnell is created from a single strip of full grain leather, which is then stitched together using a durable polyester thread. This wallet features a simple, hand-forged stainless steel cash hanger, and can hold, according to the Waskerd website, 4 cards and 10+ bills at a time. I’ve managed to fit 5 plastic cards and a few paper punch cards to the local coffee shop, and it is snug.

The stitching is done entirely by hand. Entirely. Derek punches all the holes and sews the thing together himself, which takes a considerable amount of time, patience, and effort. The quality and the craftsmanship of the Pinnell becomes evident upon closer inspection of the stitching. It’s arrow straight, but with the slight abnormalities that are present with hand-stitched items: i.e. a bump here, a divot there.

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The cash hangar is a hand-forged piece of stainless steel and it serves its job well. It grips the bills well and features the timeless look of stainless steel.

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aesthetic

The Pinnell is clean. Simply put, it is clean; however, it is a different kind of clean, one that features a personality. What I mean is that this is not a clean cut, stainless steel and black stone modern Swedish building. It is not black and white. Rather, this wallet is simple, clean, and yet somehow teeming with color and energy, which speaks to the soul of the designer, and features a bit of its own soul.

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The stitching is a major part of the aesthetic and contrasts the leather really rather well. I have the Hereford Red with white stitching and the contrast is really striking.

The wallet is designed with simple lines. Right angles, rectangles, simple and timeless. The subtle curve of the card pockets really adds to the effect as well, bringing yet another aesthetically pleasing contrast to the piece.

function

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Right now, I have about 5 cards, a few punch cards and 8 bills or so, and the pockets don’t seem over-stressed or stretched. The Waskerd website says that it’ll hold 4 cards and 10+ bills, but you can definitely fit 6 or 7 cards, and a surplus of bills with no issues. The leather will also stretch if required.

The cash hanger is snug, which I suppose is a good thing, unless you are OCD about your bill placement like I am. If you are the type of person who likes to have all of his bills facing one direction and placed in order of value, this wallet could be a bit frustrating for you. For instance, if you have a twenty, a ten, a few fives, and a few ones and you want to insert another ten, the only really way to do it without crumpling/tearing the bill is pulling all of your cash out, re-organizing, then re-inserting your cash into the hanger. This really is not an issue, though, as long as you are patient. And it’s non-existent if you are a normal and sane person, but worth mentioning nonetheless.

BestLeather conclusion

I am new to the world of money clip style wallets. Aesthetically, it’s a great way to do things. Really simple, clean, functional. As I have quickly learned, minimalist wallets are really the way to go. The Waskerd Pinnell is a gorgeous approach to minimal wallets and a great approach to money clip wallets. The price, at $78, is very reasonable considering the amount of time and effort and care it takes to put this thing together. So, if you are in the market for a money clip wallet, this is a solid option. If you are in the market for a minimal wallet this is also a great option. BestLeather.org has a surplus of reviews on cool, minimal wallets, most of which are in or below this price range, including the Craft & Lore 5 Port, and a few from Saddleback. However, if money clips are your game, then game on because this wallet is for you.

Check out the Pinnell Money Clip from Waskerd here.

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With Gfeller Casemakers On A Shop Visit

Gfeller Casemakers is a producer of fine leather goods in Meridian, Idaho, with a long tradition of excellence.  I met Steve Derricott, the owner of Gfeller (pronounced with the G) on a chilly winters morning at his shop in Meridian.  I had a great visit as Steve game me a history of Gfeller and we discussed his product line and his continuous commitment to quality.

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My first impression of his shop was that this is a true leather craftsman’s shop.  Upon entering, you are immediately welcomed by the scent of freshly worked leather.  You notice that many of the workbenches and shelving are custom made. Many of the tool sheaths were made of fine leather by Steve himself.  His polishing and burnishing wheel, for example, needed a custom cover and Steve created a beautifully tooled and formed leather.  Why buy when you can make?

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history

Gfeller Casemakers was founded by Roy Gfeller in 1946 in Colorado.  A saddle maker by trade, Roy’s proximity to  the United States Geological Society prompted a request for him to create some custom cases for geologist field gear.  It was imperative that these cases could withstand some serious use and abuse and would not break down.  Roy became known for using the highest quality materials, and producing the highest quality goods.  Upon Roy’s passing in 1985, Gfeller became available for purchase.  Steve Derricott heard of this and after some inquiry and time spent at the company, purchased the company and moved it to the Boise, Idaho area.  The timing was perfect for Steve.  As a geologist himself, and as someone who had used Gfeller products, he was ready for a change and ready to spend less time on the road.  Steve made a decision at that time to stay committed to Roy’s standard of quality.  Steve was able to expand the business, and branch out into other high quality leather products.

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product line

Gfeller Casemakers has three general product lines: geoscience bags and goods, notebooks and small personal items, and custom leather goods.  Gfeller has been secured as a maker of fine goods by the likes of Chris Reeves, Tegam, West Point, and others.  They make custom knife sheaths, tool carriers, saber belts, cartridge boxes, etc.  Steve has made a conscious decision to stay away from horse tack and sporting goods.  Steve has provided the opportunity for BestLeather.org to review a couple of his products, a notebook cover and an iPhone 5 case.  Reviews for those two products will be posted soon.

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commitment to quality

One of the things that I admired the most with Gfeller was their commitment to continuing Roy Gfeller’s tradition of using the highest quality materials and the best processes, in order to produce the best product.  It’s the type of thing that we at BestLeather.org love to see.  Upon acquiring Gfeller, Steve made the decision to use the Hermann Oak Tannery for all of it’s leather.  Hermann Oak has long had a tradition of producing fine finished leather.  Many of the goods we have reviewed at Best Leather use Hermann Oak leather as well, in fact.

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This fact is no coincidence.  Part of the reasoning for this choice was consistency and efficiency.  Using the same high quality tannery results in consistently getting high quality leather, which Gfeller customers demand.  Also, using leather from the same tannery increases efficiency.  Gfeller is able to use pieces from different hides in constructing different bags and products.  This efficiency reduces waste and saves money, which allows Gfeller to sell high quality products at reasonable prices.

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Another interesting conversation that I had with Steve related to the type of thread they use for their bags.  On all of their geoscience bags, Gfeller uses linen thread, like Italian fine leather shoemakers.  Many high quality leather goods makers currently use synthetic threads for their bags, mostly polyester and nylon.  Like Roy Gfeller before him, Steve has chosen linen thread as a matter of appropriateness.  Linen, as it turns out, is a good match for leather, strength for strength.  Polyester thread can actually tear through leather stitching, linen is not likely to do so.  A look at a wall full of old Gfeller bags, at the Gfeller Casemaker’s shop, shows that this thread can pass the test of time, just like fine leather.  I appreciate this attention and thought to detail.  It’s this attention to detail and good business practices that has kept Gfeller thriving.

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business practices

It goes without saying that a quality leather good doesn’t become that way by chance.  Gfeller’s reputation for high quality goods depends on it’s adherence to best practices and efficiencies.  For example, Steve pointed out to me, quality assurance is as important as, if not more important that, quality control.  Quality assurance demands maintaining quality throughout the production process.  If a defect of some sort is discovered during the production process, the defect is fixed or discarded immediately.  This ensures that quality control is a breeze.

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Steve also devotes considerable attention to utilizing the most appropriate machines in production of Gfeller’s goods.  The tool, or machine used, makes all of the difference in the efficiency of one’s operation.  At Gfeller’s, you’ll find die presses, industrial sewing machines, polishing wheels, hand tools, etc.  These tools were all acquired to increase efficiency, maximize man hours, and allow Gfeller to offer high value in the products they sell.

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BestLeather conclusion

My visit to Gfeller’s shop gave me a greater appreciation for the work of fine leather craftsman.  Steve Derricott is a man devoted to maintaining a tradition of excellence.  This was evident from the hand made tool sheaths, to the perfectly punched hide hung on the wall, to the fine leather cases and goods being made to order.

You can visit Gfeller Casemakers Website by clicking here.

Below is a series of photos documenting the process of completing a Gfeller compass case, from soaking in water to burnishing, cleaning up with a deer antler to forming, riveting, oiling and done.

Steve, thank you very much for your time and open access to your operation! Very enjoyable!

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Basäder Handmade Leather Belt Review in Dark Blue – $55

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Based in the bustling streets of Brooklyn, it is very easy to see the motive for Philip and Elin Antonelli’s designs: life in the city. Philip and Elin began Basäder on Etsy (read more about that here), an online hub for local startups and people looking to buy cool things.

They began by making artisan leather bags, one of which had the honor of being the first bag reviewed by BestLeather, the Messer Messenger Bag, and they soon expanded their line of hand-crafted leather goods to include multiple briefcases and satchels, as well as totes, keychains, and belts.

The Basäder Shop in Brooklyn, NY
The Basäder Shop in Brooklyn, NY

construction

Basäder uses nylon thread in concordance with copper rivets to hold this strikingly beautiful blue belt together. The buckle is made of copper as well, and features an antique burnished look. The leather is 7oz vegetable tanned, which is then dyed blue (dark blue model). the rivets are tough solid hand hammered rivets which will excel hollow rivets by a wide margin. Solid rivets will break a weak pair of snips, that’s how tough they are.

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That blue color is very striking with denim.
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No doubt it would go well with a pair of chinos as well.

This belt is not dyed all the way through the leather. In other words, the blue will fade with time, which would give way for an interesting patina; however, if you are in search of a belt that will not fade, this belt, especially in this color, may not be for you.

function

A belt has a very simple purpose, one that may seem comical, but it is the truth. A belt is designed for the sole purpose of holding one’s pants up. Does the Basäder hold my pants up? Yes, it absolutely does. It is thin enough to fit through my belt loops and substantially thick enough to hold up to daily uses.

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That subtle scratch shows how the blue coating doesn’t permeate the vegetable tanned leather.

aesthetic

When a boutique leather company such as Basäder designs a belt, they go into it with an intent in addition to the purpose of holding the wearer’s pants up: uniqueness. There are thousands of belts out there and when you’re a cool but small company such as Basäder, you have to find a way to get your foot in the door with customers. In other words, you have to find a hook, a catch that draws customers and leather aficionados alike to the till. You have to make the belt stand out. And this belt definitely does.

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Jax Chemicals makes a very nice solution for antiquing brass pieces like this.

The blue dye is extremely striking. I’ve had people comment on the color. People commented on my belt. This belt really is unique. The blue combined with the copper rivets and buckle really creates a cool, striking, and extremely interesting accessory, one that is definitely unique. I mean, how many other blue belts with copper hardware have you seen?

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It’s a sharp looking belt.

BestLeather conclusion

This belt is, in a word, beautiful. I’m not really sure what it is, but I really like the way that it catches the light and how the light plays with the minor abnormalities in the leather. It’s very captivating. For $55, you’re getting a great piece of leatherwork. In this same price range, we also have the Woodnsteel vegetable tanned belt, which is a similar and sizeable comparison. I, personally, would take the Basäder over the Woodnsteel, as I prefer the copper hardware and the overall aesthetic. The Basäder is worth the money. As far as leather belts go, $55 is a great price and for it, you will be receiving a great product.

Buying Cheap: How It Costs You More When You Could Have High Quality And Durability

There is a famous quote by Mahatma Ghandi

“Its a tragedy of the first magnitude that millions of people have ceased to use their hands as hands. Nature has bestowed upon us this great gift which is our hands. If the craze for machinery methods continues, it is highly likely that a time will come when we shall be so incapacitated and weak that we shall begin to curse ourselves for having forgotten the use of the living machines given to us by God.”

– Mahatma Ghandi

Continue reading “Buying Cheap: How It Costs You More When You Could Have High Quality And Durability”

Avund Goods Forsta V Wallet Review – $119

Avund Goods is an artisan leather goods maker with a singular focus on designing and crafting the finest leather goods. I have had the opportunity of spending the last few weeks with their Forsta V Wallet.Avund Goods Forsta V Wallet Review09

packaging

Packaging is often not a major consideration of most goods makers. There are exceptions to this though, and often when there is a lot of attention spent on the packaging of a product, you know that the product itself is going to be special (think Apple products or the Nest thermostat). Elegant packaging, elegant products.

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After opening the UPS package from Avund, I was welcomed by simple brown packaging paper, with the Avund Goods stamp, tied with blue lace. After opening the packaging, I was welcomed again with the wallet wrapped in a small burlap pouch. I immediately thought that this is a company that knows what it is doing and how to set itself apart. Needless to say, I was excited to get to the goods.

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attention to detail

It was clear after spending a few minutes with the Forsta V Wallet, that Avund spares no attention to detail. The wallet is made from 100%, full grain vegetable tanned leather, which arguably produces the most durable leather. The wallet is a gorgeous light golden brown leather, with a V-shaped slot in the middle, where you can keep several credit cards on each side. I currently have 4 cards per side and I could probably squeeze one more to each side if I wanted.

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The wallet is a classic bi-fold, with the bill compartment just tall enough for your cash. If I had it my way, I’d make the wallet about ⅛ of an inch taller, so I could carry a few more bills without them hanging over the edge, but this design forces me to not try and stuff more than I should in my wallet. The wallet is intentionally slim, but substantial enough to carry the necessities.

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Porsche of wallets

You can tell a big difference when you drive a finely tuned, precision machine like a Porsche and when you sit behind the wheel of a Chevy Sedan. Similarly, you can immediately tell a big difference between the Forsta V and your run of the mill leather wallet. The Forsta V is leaps and bounds more sophisticated and crafted. Every edge of the wallet has been either highly burnished with beeswax, or beveled to create an elegant look, and in most cases both. Even the finely beveled edges have been burnished to a crisp black. The blue, waxed linen thread is stitched evenly and is straight as an arrow. In fact, it took Avund three weeks of testing and prototyping to determine the appropriate hole configuration for the most pleasing aesthetics and performance.

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The Forsta V is made from one solitary piece of leather, folded over twice. This eliminates the need for unnecessary stitching and therefore less chance of a stitch coming loose or a seam breaking. This simple design further ensures that the wallet will last a lifetime. Also, the V that is cut out of the middle of this piece of leather, is actually used to craft another product that Avund sells, the Changer V. Talk about efficient use of materials.

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The confluence of these details is analogous to the crafting and putting together of that famous little sports car, a product that is sure to please and is sure to work just like it is supposed to.

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bestleather conclusion

The Forsta V from Avund Goods is an expertly crafted wallet with high attention to detail and design. You would be hard pressed to find a wallet this is better made and that is more sophisticated. It really is the Porsche of wallets.

Click Here to Visit Avund Goods

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Filson & Horween: The Movie

Filson has released a new line of wallets in conjunction with Horween and has also released a beautiful movie about Horween. It is so facinating to see the old world methods used to tan leather at Horween when some of the other tanneries are using completely modern machinery.

Their new wallet is very interesting in that it seems to have many ripples in the leather. It almost seems very thin from the photos. We sent an email inquiring about reviewing this new wallet. We’ll see what they say.

The Horween Leather Story from Filson on Vimeo.

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With Totem & Norman Porter In Philadelphia

While on a trip through Philadelphia I had an opportunity to stop in at the excellent men’s store, Totem, in Philadelphia. They are selling a wide range of men’s goods including leather and canvas bags.

The store is very well put together and stocked with quality brands. Phil started Totem Brand Co. because he wanted to offer great heritage brands with a focus on American manufactured goods and outdoor lifestyle. Phil takes pride that their leather goods are made in USA. In fact, most of their leather goods are made directly in Pennsylvania where they are located. Totem carries great leather goods from Norman Porter who makes all his products in Philadelphia. They also carry Billy Kirk leather goods made by the Amish in Lancaster, PA and even their hoof pick belts by Apolis are made in Howard, PA.

 

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