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March 21, 2014December 19, 2017

Colsen Keane Limited Edition Sale Today through Sunday

This weekend, Colsen Keane Custom Leather Goods is having a sale on limited edition leathers! 15% OFF with the Coupon Code “CKlimitededition”.

Although there still is a good selection of distressed satchels, when you get to the site, you will see most the limited edition items are sold out.

Coupon code expires on 23 March 2014.

Colsen Keane has a great reputation for quality leather goods – and you can save 15% this weekend.

Click the coupon to go to the site and view the items in the Limited Edition.

March 19, 2014December 19, 2017

An Introduction To Origins Leather Company

At BestLeather.org, we search out companies that are committed to the values we hold dear: commitment to high quality leather craftsmanship, original design, and the best leather and materials available. We love to share their stories when we find these companies. One such young company has recently come to our attention — Origins Leather Company.

kickstarter

I found Origins as a result of perusing Kickstarter. Impressed with what I saw, I inquired and made the connection. The Origins Leather Company will be sending us their briefcase to review in June or July, and after that, they will be sending us one for a giveaway. We look forward to that, but are excited to give you a sneak peak at some of their products and design.

design

The Origins Leather company was formed by Aaron Dean, Erik Sjolie, and Michael Sjolie. They created the company to bring to market high quality leather goods for both business and casual use. Classic design and functionality were their focus for product creation. From what I have seen of their products so far, simple design seems to be important as well. They have eliminated pockets, straps, or stitching that is unnecessary, and stuck with the basics. Also, they have eliminated lining in their bags, not only as a means of keeping their bags lighter weight, but also to provide a more natural feel to the inside of their bags.

leather

Origins uses only vegetable tanned, five to six ounce leather. To them, using vegetable tanned leather is not only more environmentally friendly (much more so than chrome tanning), but it is a leather that is in most cases more durable. It is also a little more rigid, which allows for better bag construction — lighter weight leather with sufficient structure. They currently are offering one beautiful color, which they are calling Trunk Chestnut.

craftsmanship

Origins felt that in order to succeed in beginning their company, they needed to partner with craftsman that create products meant to last generations. They were fortunate to be able to partner with the same company that makes Saddleback Leather’s bags and products. Similar to Saddleback, Origins is offering a 100 year guarantee on their products. That is serious faith in your materials and your craftsmanship. Anybody familiar with a Saddleback bag can certainly understand why they feel comfortable with this guarantee. To help support that guarantee, they use solid copper rivets, solid brass hardware and tough as nails polyester thread.

products

The Origin Leather Company is currently offering six products. The associated prices below are based on what they are currently offering through Kickstarter, meaning these prices won’t last long:

A Briefcase – $325
A Writers Bag – $225
A Travelers Pouch – $90
The Tote Bag – $150
Koozies (A pint glass holder) – $50 for four
Wallet – $30

BestLeather conclusion

If you are currently in the market for any of these items, now is a great time to take advantage of Origin’s Kickstarter campaign, and pick up some goods for less than the soon-to-be retail price. I am excited to get my hands on their briefcase. Good luck on your Kickstarter campaign Origins; we look forward to working with you.

March 18, 2014December 19, 2017

Danner Forest Heights Piedmont Boot – First Impressions

A full review on the boots will be finished soon, after I wear them for a few weeks, but I couldn’t help giving you guys a little taste of what the Forest Heights Piedmont boot from Danner are about.

The Piedmonts at the coffee shop. First wear.

Danner is based out of Portland, Oregon. (If you would like to read more about their company and their philosophy regarding quality, please check out my article which goes into much more detail regarding the company.)

out of the box

My first words were, “Damn, these are beautiful.” No question about it — the Piedmonts are a beautiful pair of boots.

I put them on and went to the coffee shop — my normal routine. I am used to the break in process of leather boots and the Piedmonts are no exception. You can expect some blisters for the first few days — but stick with it! After just a week or so of wear, they are already broken in and are my everyday shoe now.

Double stitching and braided nylon laces make these boots tough and useable in many situations.

Right out of the box, they feel solid. The leather is supple, the laces are strong, the eyelets are simple and good looking, and the sole is a good piece of Vibram rubber, which is renowned for both durability and traction. I was impressed the moment I felt them.

Goodyear welted sole. This is much more durable than a glued sole.

I have worn them for three weeks now and they feel great. I treated them with Boot Wax, a natural leather sealant from another Portland-based company, Otter Wax, to protect them from the weather here. As you know, weather in the Pacific Northwest can be unpredictable and is usually wet; Boot Wax, full grain leather, Vibram soles, and Goodyear welting means the Piedmonts are good for most conditions found in the wild, wet, and beautiful PNW. They are almost fully broken in, as well, which is a good sign.

If you have a pair, what did you think when you first pulled them out of the box and onto your feet?

March 16, 2014December 19, 2017

Heritage Leather Company Mason Bag Review – $141.83

The Heritage Leather Company creates and manufactures durable goods for the working man or woman. With a product line that consists of tool bags, tool satchels, knee pads, leather aprons, and more, Heritgage Leather has a focus on making goods that are meant to be used and abused. As such, they have a commitment to producing goods that are durable, functional, but affordable. BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing a few items from Heritage Leather, their 16” Mason Tool Bag, their Pliers Holder, and their Six Pocket Tool Pouch.

the leather

Considering we are a site about leather, my first impressions are usually focused on the leather itself, and with Heritage Leather’s goods, there was no exception. For the Pliers Holder and Tool Pouch, Heritage Leather uses vegetable tanned, natural colored, four to five ounce leather. Similar in function to saddle leather, this leather can be formed and molded for a specific purpose, and retain that shape for many years. It is the color of leather that patinas to a golden hue over time, that is very stout, and is very durable. In other words, it’s the right leather choice to hold tools.

The majority of the Mason Bag is made of heavy duty, 18 ounce canvas. Heavy canvas, instead of leather, is a reasonable choice for a large tool bag, considering tools in and of themselves are heavy. The light weight canvas is stout enough, but light enough to make the bag comfortable to carry, even when loaded with tools. To support these tools and ensure that the bag holds together for a long time, Heritage uses one solid, thick, top grain piece of leather for the bottom of the bag. This leather is chrome tanned. Personally, I would prefer vegetable tanned leather for the bottom of the bag, because of its increased durability, but the choice of using thick leather compensates and ensures a long life.

The handles and closure straps of the mason bag are made of four to five ounce vegetable tanned, natural colored leather, the same as their tool pouches. This is stout, very durable leather, that is meant to hold up to years of use.

function

After spending a couple weeks with the goods from Heritage Leather, it was obvious that they focus on producing items that have a very specific purpose, and that these items must serve that purpose well. The Pliers Holder has the right size pocket for an average pair of pliers. The Tool Pouch has enough pockets to carry the essentials for a number of small tasks, like hanging a painting, repairing a broken gate, or fixing that leaky faucet. The Mason Bag has a wide mouth, which makes it easy to drop tools into, and quickly pull tools from the bag. I really liked this design for a tool bag. When I am trying to fix something, the last thing I want to mess around with is trying to get my bag open, or to search inside the bag for the right tool. The wide mouth design of the Mason Bag eliminates this hassle.

Like a classic tool bag, the Mason Bag opens from the inside outward, to provide complete access to the entire bag. It opens and closes easily, and the straps keep the bag cinched shut when transporting tools, or not in use. I found that the metal frame made it easier to carry the bag around, even with tools in it, without using the straps.

the details

The well known idiom, “The Devil is in the details” is just as true in leather working as in any other craft, if not more so. I can quickly tell when a leather good is made to high standards by focusing on some of the details, the type of stitching used, the quality of the hardware, the overall design of an item, etc.

After spending some time with these Heritage Leather goods, it is obvious that they are a company that remembers the details. Heritage uses strong, nylon thread for all of its bags, pouches, and tool holders. With thread weight anywhere from a size 69 to a size 277 (the larger the number, the thicker the thread), they use what is most appropriate for the item being crafted.

Heritage also uses steel, nickel plated hardware for it’s buckles and rings. They also use metal studs for the bottom of their mason bags, for better wear and tear protection. Similarly, they insert a thick piece of water resistant fiberboard in the bottom of the bag, to provide enough rigidity for an ample supply of tools.

In speaking to Heritage about their Mason Bag, they pointed out that they replaced the original steel frame with an aluminum frame as a means of making the bag a little lighter, while still maintaining enough strength and rigidity. Couple the lighter weight nature of the bag, with the provided shoulder strap, and lots of space, and you could actually use the bag as your overnight bag for a campout or other excursion. Dual purpose, I like that.

price

It is fairly unusual in the world of quality leather, to get a quality good for a low price. The equation: High quality = high prices is generally true. The mathematics are pretty plain and simple. I think Heritage Leather comes as close as possible to bucking this equation as a company can. They currently sale their Pliers Holder for $6.78. The Tool Pouch is $22.32 and the Mason Bag is $141.83. For leather products that are made in the good ole’ U.S. of A, those are darn good prices for very good quality items.

BestLeather conclusion

If you are in the market for a tool pouch, bag, or other leather tool accessory, the Heritage Leather Company is a great choice, plain and simple.

March 15, 2014May 9, 2020

Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet Review – $47

Saddleback Leather has multiple styles of wallets to choose fron. This review will cover the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet in Tobacco and Black (and it seems they do not even have the black color available any longer). The wallets come in two other colors; chestnut and carbon (a grayish color). I do plan on purchasing the other colors to see which I like best, especially after they have developed a nice patina. Patina is a shiny or dark surface that forms naturally on something such as wood or leather that is used and or worn for a certain period of time. Here is a great example of patina. Upon the six month and year follow up reviews there will be pictures posted so you can see the developed patina.

Packaging

Some companies have awesome packaging that somehow sends you back to your favorite Christmas, yet this is not so with Saddleback. But even though the packaging may not be overdone the product you receive certainly will be.

Some Initial Details

The first thing that stood out was the smell. That true leather smell is so delicious. Among many things, the smell was what I kept showing and telling people about. Then after some odd looks I would explain that the wallet only cost about $36. I could not get over the fact that I had purchased a full grain leather wallet that people were raving about for less than 50 bucks. Saddleback did not disappoint. The wallet has aged for about three months and the smell, unfortunately, has worn less pungent than I would like. Yet as the smell has declined the quality of craftsmanship is really starting to show off.

Aesthetic

When you receive your wallet do not be shocked by the stiffness of it. This is how a lot of good leather starts off before the user breaks it in. At first, barely any bills fit into the slot (unless you put some strength and finesse into it); yet that has slowly gotten easier over the last three months. The bottom right corner on the face of the wallet has “Saddleback” stamped on it and the bottom right inside flap has Blue, Dave Munson’s (the founder and owner of Saddleback Leather) late dog stamped on it.

Function

Six cards can barely fit in each card slot (more will go in if you really want them to). There are two card slots. When accessing cards be aware that you might be tempted to take out all of the cards, shuffle through them, and then pick which one you want. It is possible to leave all the cards in the slot and nimbly pick through them depending on how many cards you are going to put in each slot. The wallet is geared more toward a minimalist tool and I normally carry four cards max in each side and it fits them perfectly. Currently I have four bills in the bill slot with 4 paper punch cards, one stamp, and a receipt from Papa Murphy’s. All of it fits great with room for more. The bills have enough room to go deep enough as to not stick out, which is admirable. For those of you who usually put a giant rock-sized thing called a wallet in your back pocket, this might be the cure the doctor has for you to minimize the things you carry and be a little easier on your body. When I received it I definitely had to go through and prioritize the things I actually need to carry.

Quick Aside of Dave’s Deals

So how was this product obtained for only $36? Dave’s Deals. Since his products are hand made (another star for him) sometimes small mistakes are made, usually in the stitching. He will then mark down the product by as much as 25%, depending on the flaw. Each flaw will be different. On the wallet I purchased, the only flaws were about four places where the stitch must have been messed up so they re-stitched it. Now it looks just a little thicker than the normal stitch. There is slight fraying from one of the stitching flaws but if it ever breaks I will happily let them uphold their warranty.

BestLeather conclusion

I will add some thoughts and updates as time goes on to see how this wallet ages but these three months make me think that there is going to be much enjoyment of this great product for years to come. My family just might fight over it when I am dead. This is a great purchase for a wallet especially since it is in the lower price range for such a good quality product, Dave’s Deals or not. Make sure to check back in the following months for updates and let me know your thoughts if you own or have had a significant encounter with the wallet. Overall the Saddleback Leather Small Bi-fold Wallet was a great purchase.

Click here to see everything that is discounted on Dave’s Deals today.

March 14, 2014December 19, 2017

This Weekend Save 15% on all Satchels at Colsen Keane

If you have been putting off your satchel purchase, Colsen Keane now gives you a reason to put this off no longer. This weekend only, all their satchels are 15% off with the coupon code CKsatchel. Click the image to go to the site.

BTW: If you are interested in a handy tech bag, or gadget bag. We are currently reviewing the Colsen Keane No 213 Tech Case. Look for the review here in about a week to ten days.

March 14, 2014December 19, 2017

Waskerd Slim Strayer Wallet Review – $55

As time progresses it seems that many of the materials and skills that our ancestors used are falling away. Of course they are replaced with more easily produced, less expensive products and materials. We could assume that this is better, but Waskerd has a different philosophy. They make all of their products by hand, and all their materials are from the US. It’s a throwback to the days when most of what you owned was built by someone who you knew. I can say that having the Waskerd Strayer Wallet has proven to me that the old way has advantages. In comparison to my life filled with mass-produced generic products it is fast becoming one of my favorite possessions.

Construction Technique

Derek, the owner at Waskerd, has made a point to keep his construction processes as far away from the mechanically produced as possible; the result is very high quality leather goods. Everything that he makes is by hand, and just as the old days he emphasises knowing where everything that goes into his products comes from. As a purist he avoids templates, opting to cut and stitch by eye. The wallets can be ordered with custom leather and thread colors as well. Both of these features lend to the town leathersmith aspect of his business and certainly makes each wallet an original.

Leather

The Waskerd Strayer is made out of full grain leather. Full grain leather is the best quality available meaning that this wallet will last for years. In addition it is chrome tanned and after only a few weeks use it is already developing a nice patina. In years to come it will develop personality through my habits of use. A nice touch is the unfinished edges that highlight the way the leather wears. In some cases a manufacturer will leave edges raw in an attempt to skip a step. Since this leather is chrome tanned, the edges fit the look and feel of the wallet.

Stitching

Waskerd uses waxed polyester thread. As opposed to cotton it is much more durable (less likely to rot, break or come unraveled, and impervious to ultraviolet rays). Each hole is punched by hand. This is great because even though the stitching is extremely straight, it has a nice bespoke look and feel to it. He uses a saddle stitch for better durability and the corners are cleverly double stitched for better wear.

One of the endearing features of Waskerd’s unique designs are the intricate W sewn into the front of their wallets. This is fantastic and a level of creativity we don’t often get to see.

Bestleather Conclusion

This is a good wallet. At $55 it is reasonably priced especially since it will last for so long. The one drawback that I have found is that your bills must be double folded in the front. As a result they all need to be pulled out every time you pay cash. For someone who uses less cash and more cards the Strayer is worth looking into more. Their other wallets are also well worth a look.

Click here to check out the Strayer Slim wallet on Waskerd.com.

March 13, 2014December 19, 2017

Introduction to Danner Boots – A Quality History

Portland, Oregon is a hub for all that is cool. As Fred Armisen would say, “The dream of the 90s is alive in Portland.” People wear flannel shirts, tights jeans, big glasses, gauges, the lot. It is a timeless casually classy look. Leather is everywhere you look — Leather wallets, leather pants, leather jackets, leather iPhone cases, leather bags, leather, leather, leather, leather, and, finally, more leather. One of the most prominent of all of these trades are boots — Portland is a leather boot city. And that’s where Danner comes in.

Danner Boots

In 1932, Charles Danner realized a dream. Amidst the throes of the Great Depression, he realized that quality was fading in the American boot trade. Thus, fueled by his passion for quality and craftsmanship, he began building American sourced and American made leather boots out of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Danner Boots was born.

Four years later, with the growing need for highly durable boots in the Pacific Northwest due to the growing logging industry, Danner uprooted himself and moved west — To Portland, Oregon. In Portland, he was building and selling the best, most durable leather boots available to loggers, who needed them most. A pair of well worn Shipyard boots in the 1940s was the mark of a man’s man. They were said to be virtually indestructible and were thus the chosen boot of men who labored long and hard in the woods, at the docks, or really wherever there was excessive mud, rain, snow, or any other extreme elements.

In the mid-20th century, mass production was rising in popularity and quality, handcrafted goods were falling by the wayside. Danner frowned at this and insisted that Danner Boots be handbuilt with the highest standards of craftsmanship and quality — no matter the cost or increased production time. And they’re still committed to craftsmanship and quality today. I like that quite a bit.

Handcrafted from quality materials. Courtesy of Danner Boots.

The Stumptown line from Danner are constructed entirely in Danner’s Portland, Oregon factory. www.danner.com/boots/stumptown

Danner’s impact on leather culture

Danner is a prime example of the fact that companies can continue the pursuit of quality and craftsmanship even through growth and expansion. It is all too easy for a company to fall into a trap: “Because we’re putting out so many products, we need to sacrifice quality”. Charles Danner had the right idea back in the 30s and that philosophy continues through to this day at Danner: quality is of the utmost importance. And you, the consumer, will pay for that quality. But, Danner will deliver and it will be well worth it.

Real people with real hands constructing boots by hand. That is what I like to see. Courtesy of Danner Boots.

What do you think of the philosophy behind Danner and their impact on the leather culture? Do you have a pair of Danner boots? If so, share their story!

March 12, 2014February 9, 2023

All About The Types Of Leather Use In Shoes – Type, Thickness, And Grains

Many people love leather, especially in shoes. It’s a strong and durable material that can withstand the elements and wear and tear. It’s also resistant to scuffs and scratches. Leather shoes are often more comfortable than those made from other materials because they can mold to the feet’s shape over time.

Leather shoes are also versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. They’re available in various styles, colors, and designs. Interestingly, they can eventually develop a unique patina, making them even more desirable. Such features are some of the reasons why they’re considered a great investment. So, if you’re looking for nice leather shoes, check out leather boots from Brand House Direct and other similar stores.

Unlike other objects made of leather, like furniture, coats, purses and so on, the majority of shoe leather is stretched over a last (a wooden or plastic form in the general shape of a foot) to create the shoe upper. To do this the leather has to be within a certain range of thickness. And, certain types of leather define the type and quality of the shoe. Lets dig into what leathers are ideal for shoes.

Types of Leather Used in Shoes

One of the most preferred leathers for dress/business shoes is calfskin. Because calfskin comes from a calf it has a tighter grain and fiber, and is thinner and lighter than cow hide; this makes for better shoe leather. Other types of animal leather include:

Kidskin (from goat) – Known for its delicate texture and suppleness, it’s a popular choice for high-end fashion and footwear.
Pigskin/Peccary (from pig) – It’s known for its durability, strength, and resistance to wear and tear, as well as its unique grain pattern and texture.
Cordovan Shell (from horse) – Its unique characteristics, such as its durability, high level of water resistance, and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time, are its main selling points. It’s also known for its unique texture and how it takes the dye, resulting in a rich and deep color.
Bovine leather (cow hide / calfskin) – It’s one of the world’s most widely used types of leather due to its availability, durability, and versatility.

Those are the most common types of animal leather used in shoes.

Types of Animal Leather Used in Shoes

but you also have more exotics leathers such as the following:

Buffalo
Elephant
Kangaroo
Ostrich
Alligator
Crocodile
Lizard
Snake

Reptile skins tend to last longer and need less care than animal leathers, but they are also more expensive.

Where is Leather Used in Shoes?

A high quality, all leather, shoe uses leather in the following places:

The outsole of the shoe (the part that touches the ground)
The insole of the shoe (the part your foot rests on)
The lining of the shoe (between your foot and the upper)
The heel of the shoe (as in stacked layers of leather to create the heel)
The shoe upper (the rest of the shoe, excluding the items above)

Leather Thickness

Shoes that are not all leather may have rubber soles, insoles made of various materials, and heels made of wood, rubber or plastic. I would suggest going with all leather if you can, with the exception of perhaps rubber soles – if you need to stand in cold wet environments. Leather thicknesses is measured in ounces of weight to thickness in fractions of an inch:

1oz = 1/64
2oz = 1/32
3oz = 3/62
4oz = 1/16
5oz = 5/64
6oz = 3/32
7oz = 7/64
8oz = 1/8
9oz = 9/64
10oz = 5/32
11oz = 11/64
12oz = 3/16
13oz = 13/64
14oz = 7/32

A leather outsole on a man’s shoe is around 12oz in thickness on average. A leather insole is typically around 14oz in thickness to accommodate the welt. A shoe upper is around 5oz on a typical dress/business shoe, The lining is about 1oz.

All of these thicknesses can vary due to leather type, welt method, and shoe style. For example Italian shoes tend to be sleeker and therefore use thinner leather in the soles and uppers to achieve the look. Soles that are Blake stitched or bond welted don’t require as thick an insole as Goodyear welted shoes.

The quality of the leather used in a given line of shoes is determined by the grade of leather the shoe manufacturer purchased to make the shoes. The leather on a shoe upper is typically grain side out leather, but shell cordovan has no grain, waxed leather is used inside out (flesh side out), and suede leather has had the grain removed entirely. Leather that has blemishes in the grain are often buffed (sanded) of the grain side to remove the blemishes, which then requires the grain to be corrected.

About Corrected Grain Leather

Corrected grain leather is sometimes referred to as bookbinder leather. If the grain has not been corrected it is referred to as full grain. One of the final stages of tanning leather is applying the color and finish (although chromium tanned leather can be bought in the “wet blue” state” it comes out of the tanning process in). The high quality leather is typically aniline dyed, which saturates the color completely through the leather. The leather won’t have a coated feel to it. The leather is also pressed under high pressure to give it some shine, and a very thin coat of clear or colored acrylic is applied as a final finish, in most cases.

Some shoe manufacturers may also add an additional clear or colored finish coat. In the case of corrected grain, the pressing and acrylic finish is also where the corrected grain is applied. Because of this, corrected grain leather will have a thicker finish than non-corrected grain, and may also be a little shinier. Corrected grain finishes can range from a simple smooth surface to faux animal skin and pebble grain. Corrected grain leather is typically lower grade leather, simply because the grain and aniline dye would be covered up if done to a higher quality leather. And, the thicker the finish the poorer the leather quality can be. There are exceptions to this rule of course; for example: some pebble grain shoes/boots can be made of good quality leather, but it is hard to tell because of what the finish covers up.

The best way to tell if a shoe is made of corrected grain leather (actually, leather that has a corrected finish on the grain) is to flex the shoe. The finer the creases the more finish on the shoe (the greater the correction). Shoes come in all types and qualities of leather, so it helps to have an idea of what you are really buying. Another of the biggest indicators you can use for determining if a shoe uses corrected grain is price. Quality costs good money. Yet another way is to look at the shininess since corrected grain leather has a much thicker layer of acrylic.

Hopefully this article will give you some things to consider when you are you are looking to buy a shoe.

This is a guest post from Glen Tippets, the owner of the shoe care company, GlenKaren Care Products. You can learn more about his naturally made products at glenkarencare.com.

March 11, 2014May 9, 2020