The Strap Smith’s Italian Vintage Style Watch Strap Review – $189

So you got yourself that fancy watch you have always wanted. As time goes on, you wonder what could you do to make it just a little more special. Unfortunately, the majority of wristwatches that do not come on metal bracelets are accompanied by leather straps that don’t speak to the quality of the watch they are securing. Getting a custom band can quickly remedy this problem by making that watch look like a million.

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There are many custom strap makers online, but few have as good a reputation among watch lovers as The Strap Smith. Robert Farrington, better known as Rob Montana is the man behind the operation. Each of his straps are hand cut, stitched, and finished, creating a truly unique strap that is worthy for a priceless timepiece.

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Construction

Right from the start I could tell the difference between Rob’s strap and the mass produced strap that was already on my watch. The leather is extremely thick Italian leather with the straight and even stitching and high quality, brushed hardware.

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There is only one area where the stitching varied, but it is such a small amount that I realized it only after a close inspection. I was most surprised by the superior quality edge finishing compared to the old strap. Clearly, Rob takes a lot of time getting these straps perfect.

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Function

Without much trouble, I was able to quickly get The Strap Smith’s band on. What I’ve found with a lot of thick straps is that they are a bit cumbersome and never really break in. This wasn’t the case with Rob’s watchband. After a week of wear, the strap comfortably conformed and my watch rested neatly on my wrist. Unlike most bands, Rob’s hasn’t shown any sign of breaking down after repeated buckling and unbuckling giving me a feeling that this strap will be in my arsenal for many years to come.

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Aesthetic

Getting a well-made custom band makes any watch shine. Rob’s does this exceptionally well. I went for the Italian Vintage style because of the unique, but subtle texture. It works perfectly on my Omega Seamaster.

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The robust size of the strap compliment the tool watch and the subtle texture and fine finish work bring out the classy, more refined side of the watch. Even the large buckle and holes, which at first struck me as too big, give the watch more character than any of my previous straps.

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BestLeather Conclusion

The Strap Smith makes one amazing strap. Not many makers provide the leather selection, the craftsmanship or the care that Rob puts into each one of his straps.

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Although the price may seem steep to most outside of the watch enthusiast world, the quality of the product and the aesthetic value that it adds to any watch makes it more than worth it. On top of it all, Rob provides great customer service and will answer any question you have.

If you are looking to upgrade the look of your watch or give it more security on your wrist, check out The Strap Smith here.

Satch & Fable 13″ Leather Satchel W/Pocket Review – $139

Twelve years ago in India, Fabrizio Giuliani, an Italian teaching English to Tibetan monks, found a guy making “cheap” leather bags to tourists. Falling in love with unique qualities of the leather, he decided to use that leather to create his own bags with enhanced durability and construction techniques. Satch & Fable bags are created using the Buddhist concept of Wabi-sabi which finds natural beauty in imperfection and impermanence.

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CONSTRUCTION

The most unique aspect of this satchel is the full-grain goat leather. Goat leather is naturally lighter and more water-resistant than cowhide.  Fabrizio describes this leather as Moroccan leather. Although this leather is actually from India, it is tanned using traditional Moroccan techniques. “Traditional” Moroccan leather tanning is not nearly as pleasant nor easy compared to mechanized Western techniques. In a nutshell, the leather is arduously hand-washed at least five times. At the fourth wash, the leather is “shampooed” to remove odors (from what I’ve learned, this is the ESSENTIAL step). The leather is then gently dried in the sun for 2 hours, re-wet, and then hand-rubbed. Goatskins are smaller than cowhide so up to two goatskins are used to make a single bag. Because of the sourcing and traditional tanning methods, no two bags will ever be alike.

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The goats are raised and sourced locally from Rajasthan, and the tanned skins are brought to the village workshop for construction. There are only 3-5 local workers who produce these bags by hand. The brass buckles and rivets are also from India. Vintage sewing machines are used to place the cotton stitching.

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Satch & Fable 13” Satchel with Front Pocket (on bottom) and Satch & Fable Pouch ( on top)

FUNCTION

This satchel breaks all the rules. It does not have a 100-year warranty. It is not made from military grade materials or imported fabrics from Italy or France. It will not stop a bullet for you. This bag is not 10 lbs.  This bag is a lightweight, casual alternative to the rugged beast bags out there. My particular satchel is 13’’x10’’x5’’ although various size options are available.  It comes with three internal compartments with a padded one just for your laptop, two zippered pockets, and an external front pocket. This featherweight entry to the satchel arena is a welcome reprieve to the pounding that my shoulder has taken from my full-grain cowhide briefcase that I use for work.

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AESTHETIC

Who knew imperfect could be so beautiful? You can see every blemish on these tanned goatskins but they are subtle and gorgeous. This bag is not pretentious nor does it try to be something it’s not. This is one of those kids you hated in college – someone who doesn’t have to try, but always looks good and grabs all the attention. Out of the bag, it seems like a bag that has been loved for many years but there’s still years worth of aging and patina left for you to do on your own. There are darkened shadows and creases at just the right spots. The leather is so soft and light yet tough. According to the Wabi-sabi concept on the website, there may be an imperfect stitch here or there, but I can’t find a single one.

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Here’s my favorite part – you really have no idea exactly what your bag will look like before you get it. Because of the traditional hand-tanning method, your bag’s leather may look COMPLETELY different than the next one. Opening up the bag is like opening up a Christmas gift or pulling a fish out of water.

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Yes, these are the exact same bags made of the same type of leather.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Satch & Fable 13’’ Leather Satchel with Pocket at $139 is a welcome alternative to the heavy full-grain cowhide bags flooding the new-entry market. It won’t break your back and it won’t break your bank. This bag is perfectly imperfect. If you’re looking for a beautiful broke-in bag that can save you several years worth of patina this is it. Consider PaydayMint if you’re in a financial bind and want Satch & Fable bags.

Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Sharkskin Belt Review – $450

As previously featured in the Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet Review, Andrew Diba is a Canadian leather designer who prides himself on meticulous quality construction using the highest grade of materials. When an individual leathermaker is showcased along reputable companies such as Rolex, BMW, and LG in Sharp Magazine’s (the Canadian GQ) spring and summer fashion guide, he must be doing something right. This sharkskin belt is a fine example of an unexpected exotic leather put to good use. Continue reading “Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Sharkskin Belt Review – $450”

Christensen Bags No. 7 Platypus Satchel Review – $225

The lowly platypus just doesn’t get enough recognition in this world with the likes of lions, tigers and bears roaming around.  That’s a shame because the platypus is a fascinating creature.  Endemic to Australia, including Tasmania, the platypus is one of just a few venomous mammals with seemingly more in common with a Tasmanian devil than with a duck. The days of the platypus staying in obscurity are soon to vanish though with the Platypus series of satchels by Christensen Bags.  A waxed canvas and leather goods company based in San Francisco, California, Christensen Bags makes high quality goods with a focus on minimalism inspired by Danish mid-century Modern aesthetics.  BestLeather was able to review one of their minimalistic satchels, the No. 7 Platypus.

 

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MATERIALS

A bag is only as good as what it is made out of.  Christensen understands this and chooses to work with some of the best materials available.  They source their leather exclusively from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, which was established in 1905.  They obtain their waxed canvas from Martin Dyeing and Finishing, which was established in 1838.  The No. 7 is a combination waxed canvas and leather bag.  The outside of the bag is made from a natural, khaki colored waxed canvas, while the interior is a black waxed canvas.  The black interior is a smart move as the interior of a bag tends to attract marks, smudges, and stains.  If you are unfamiliar with waxed canvas, it is smooth material where the wax is not readily apparent.  The wax is impregnated into the canvas as a means of waterproofing the material.

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It has become a popular material to use in the higher end bag market, where cost is a factor.  Combining waxed canvas with high quality leather produces a super durable and classy combination.  If you’re not into that combination and prefer all leather bags, then Christensen has you covered and you can get their No. 3, which is an all Dublin leather satchel with the same design.

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I have to say that the leather used for the flap of this bag is impressive.  Named Dublin by the Horween Tannery, character comes built into this leather.  The leather has a similar pull up affect as Horween’s famous Chromexcel leather, but is all vegetable tanned, which means it will develop a beautiful patina with use.  The leather is also thicker than most high quality leather bags and definitely thicker than boot leather.  The underside of the leather is unlined, which I think is beautiful, and is also very smooth, an indication of a high quality leather.  The same Dublin leather is used for accents as well, namely for the D-rings on either end of the bag, for the flap closure on the front of the bag and for the interior pen holders.

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METAL AND THREAD

Keeping to their minimalist vision, there is not a lot of hardware on the bag.  The D-rings and the lobster clasps on the strap are all solid brass with an antique finish, which marries well with the look of the bag.  The materials are all sewn together with strong and durable no 128 bonded nylon.  The perimeter of the flap of the bag is sewn with a dark brown nylon.  Technically the thread is not necessary as it doesn’t combine two materials and is purely aesthetic.  Personally, I like the look and think that provides a nice finish, but some might prefer the stitch less look.

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DESIGN

Minimalism is an important focus for Christensen and the No. 7 is no exception.  The bag is an appropriate size for a satchel, but is not a large bag.  Measuring 14.5″ wide by 10″ high, by 2 1/4″ deep, the bag is meant to carry the essentials and not much else.  Large enough for a 13″ laptop (my 13″ Macbook Air with case fit snugly), a notebook cover, an IPad or other electronic device, and some accessories, and you’re good to go.

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The most noticeable feature of the bag is the obvious play off of our lowly platypus with a wide 3″ “bill” that inserts snugly into the front loop and is secured with a single button rivet.  The look is surprisingly reminiscent of a platypus, but is still classy and sophisticated.  There is something satisfying with not having to tangle with any buckles and clasps when opening or closing your bag.  Unbuttoning and sliding out the flap is quick and easy and refastening it is the same.  In using this bag, I never felt that the contents of the bag were unsafe with this closure.  The bill fits snugly into the loop and stays there.  The size of the bag helps with this as you’re not lugging around a significant amount of goods.

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Neil, co-founder of Christensen Bags, takes prototyping very seriously.  He tests and tweaks their designs, and uses the prototype until he feels it is perfect.  He developed their No. 1 satchel to shuttle his necessities from work to home and wanted to sell something that he would love and use.  He has currently been carrying a wallet prototype around for the past year, making notes along the way to ensure the perfect product.  This fastidious focus on design is apparent in the goods they sell.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The No 7. platypus satchel from Christensen Bags is minimalists dream.  It is lightweight, has one main compartment to carry your essentials and opens and closes with ease.  It is made from high quality materials made by companies with long histories, and is designed to carry your goods in style.  The price of $225 is right for a smaller bag made of premium materials and is designed well.  Perhaps best of all, No Platyplus’ were harmed in the making of this review, or the making of this bag.  We recommend the No. 7 from Christensen.

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Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197

Here’s a review of a beautiful piece that caught my eye from a designer and leatherworker on etsy from Australia. Melanie Hudson of Matoirs Leather Products has been selling handmade and hand tooled leather bags for about 2 years now but working with leather since she was very young, assisting her father binding leather books. Her etsy shop features vintage style handbags that are hand tooled or hand painted with detail and rich beautiful colors. Continue reading “Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197”

Horween Leather Company and Thrux Lawrence All Leather Thrux Pack – $990

In the not too distant past, BestLeather received a hide of the Horween Leather Company’s latigo leather, in a chestnut color.  Thinking of one of the best places we could take the hide to and develop it into something beautiful and functional, we immediately thought of Thrux Lawrence of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.  We asked them to craft something fine from the leather so that we can showcase Horween’s latigo leather and something fine they indeed crafted.

Tanden Launder, the proprietor of Thrux Lawrence, took the project a step further and crafted something new for them, an ALL leather Thrux Pack.  They craft many of their thick 24 ounce canvas and latigo leather Thrux Packs, which are beautiful and extremely rugged, and which they sell online and at their brick and mortar store in Coeur d’Alene, but they had yet to make an all leather Thrux Pack.  This was a serendipitous opportunity to try something a little new.

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HORWEEN LEATHER COMPANY

The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween.  The company has remained in family hands (currently run by Arnold “Skip” Horween, Isadore’s great grandson) ever since and is now the last remaining tannery in the Chicago area, and one of the few remaining industrial tanneries in the United States.  Horween’s first product was shell cordovan for razor strops.

After the invention of the electric razor and the subsequent reduced demand for razor strops, Horween recognized the need to diversify it’s leather portfolio.  The result has been some fine leathers, and some tanning recipes that are still being used today, decades later (think Chromexcel).

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Avid readers of BestLeather will be very familiar with the name Horween.  The simple reason for this is that many, many of the leather companies whose products we review use Horween’s leather.  And the simple reason for that is because Horween produces some of the finest (if not the finest) leather for consumer goods.  Their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan probably get the most attention in the realm of high quality leather goods, but one line of leather that needs a little more recognition is their Latigo line of leather.

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ABOUT THE LATIGO LINE OF LEATHER

Tanden with Thrux swears by latigo leather.  In my conversations with him he has repeated that latigo is the time tested leather, and of course he is correct.  Latigo is a form or method of tanning leather.  Traditionally tanned from cowhide, latigo is normally combination tanned, usually chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned, which is how Horween still does it.  Latigo has traditionally been used for horse tack, namely for saddle cinches.  The reason for this is the durable nature of latigo.  It is tanned in a way that makes it more stiff than many of your luxury leathers, with less stretch, and as a result is more durable.  This is the main reason that Thrux Lawrence prefers latigo, its durable nature.

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Another benefit in using Horween’s latigo is that their leather is struck through.  This means that after tanning the hide, the hide is then dyed with the color of choice, and they allow the dye to penetrate through the entire hide.  Many tanneries simply dye the exterior of the leather, but when cut into you see either a blue strip running through the middle of the leather (in the case of chrome tanned leathers), or a light brown strip (in the case of vegetable tanned leather).  For the purposes of luxury consumers goods, this is unacceptable.  Striking the leather through is more time consuming and expensive, but Horween doesn’t take any shortcuts and that shows in their leather.

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ABOUT THE ALL LEATHER THRUX PACK

Like all of Thrux Lawrence goods, the All Leather Thrux Pack is ridiculously tough and overbuilt, which is just the way I like it.  This particular Thrux Pack uses two different colors and weights of latigo.  Horween provided BestLeather a chestnut hide that is four to five ounces in weight.  This hide was used in the construction of the main body of the Thrux Pack, as well as the internal computer sleeve and pocket.  Thrux used a darker brown latigo leather from Horween that is eight to nine ounces in weight for the shoulder straps, the top flap and straps, the handle, and their signature bucket tray, or bottom of the bag.  Eight to nine ounce latigo leather in an of itself is thick and extremely rugged.  Thrux takes that thick leather and doubles it for the shoulder straps and handle.  The result is one hardy backpack that is bound to last generations.

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To combine all of this beautiful and sturdy leather, Thrux uses very durable bonded nylon thread.  For this Thrux Pack, they used a white thread which contrasts nicely against the chestnut colored leather.  Note the double stitching for increased durability on the shoulder straps as well as the bottom tray, another indication of attention to detail.  The hardware used for the buckles is solid brass.  The zippers used are oversized, solid brass, YKK Zippers.  And the rivets used to further secure the leather are solid brass rivets and burrs.

I stated in a previous article written for BestLeather that solid copper rivets are the toughest rivets you can use for leather, but I was mistaken.  As brass is a combination of tin and copper, which results in a much harder metal than copper, solid brass rivets are much tougher than copper.  The use of solid brass over solid copper rivets is indicative of Thrux Lawrence’s approach to leather crafting.  They use only the very best materials in the making of their bags and goods.

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With a lot of thick, sturdy latigo leather, the All Leather Thrux Pack is going to take some time to break in and be comfortable.  On the flip side, after you use the bag for work or travel, you know your kid will be able to use it for college and work, and their kid will be able to do the same.  The bag is that well made and the Horween leather that durable.

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BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

The All Leather Thrux Pack from Thrux Lawrence is a ridiculously well made bag.  The choice of using latigo leather from the Horween Leather Company is the best choice.  Latigo is time tested, is very durable, and Horween’s latigo is struck through and beautiful.  $990 may seem like a lot to put down for a backpack and it is.  But this really is not any ordinary bag.  The attention to detail, the use of the best possible and most durable materials, and the quality craftsmanship means this is an investment in an heirloom quality good.  The use of Horween’s latigo means you’re also getting the best quality leather that is used by the best leather companies in the United States and beyond.  BestLeather definitely recommends the All Leather Thrux Pack and could not speak more highly of Horween’s latigo leather.

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Vicenzo Titan X Leather Briefcase Review – $229

Vicenzo Leather is a leather company based out of Houston, Texas. Desgned in the USA and manufactured in China, Vicenzo fuses together European design with western style, craftsmanship and materials. Besides briefcases, Vicenzo makes messenger bags, wallets, duffel bags, and other handbags.

The Titan X is the newest addition to Vincenzo’s line and is an updated version of their previous Titan briefcase. The Titan X features more pockets and compartments to help with convenience and organization.

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Construction

The Titan X briefcase is constructed of full grain pebbled leather with a durable denim interior, brass buckles, snaps, leather reinforced seams on the inside, nylon thread stitching and zippers. The bag measures 16.5″ length x 12″ high and 5″ deep. Empty the bag weighs about five pounds.

The front of the bag features 6 compartments – two with magnetic snap closures and four with zipper closures. There are two main inner compartments with zipper closures. The front most compartment has a space for a laptop or portfolio with a velcro secured leather tab to secure. The back compartment is one large space with no dividers but has two pockets on the inner side for small items as well as two pen slots. Against the outer wall is another zippered pocket. The back exterior of the bag has one zippered pocket. To carry the bag, there are two snap removable handles on either side as well as one non removable handle directly on top of the bag. Lastly, The bag has a removable and adjustable shoulder strap made of nylon and leather with a leather shoulder pad.

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Function

As noted above, this is a larger sized briefcase with a lot of handy pockets, pouches and other features. Any business traveler will agree that all the pockets are handy to keep things such as travel documents, small electronics and chargers, pens, small notebooks, and various other tools. The main compartments can hold several books, laptops, electronics and other tools. The bag can also hold some spare clothes making this a suitable overnight bag as well.

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Aesthetic

My initial reaction to receiving the bag was that the color was not at all matching the color on the website. The website has the bag in a lighter and more weathered brown leather where the bag is actually a very solid dark brown. Also the pebble grain on the bag was not noted on the website. I felt slightly disappointed at first and felt the bag and company lacked quality. The bag had an off smell not like that of other nostalgic brand new leather smells I know and love. The denim cloth interior was also not noted on the website.

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I’m not a huge fan of the fake snap buckles on the front two pockets but one might see the as a convenience if they need to get in and out of the pockets quickly. A few times already the snap has opened by rubbing up against something or catching on another object.

A great thing about this bag is that it is a lightweight bag (empty). I was able to have two small laptops, a full-sized portfolio, and a spare change of clothes for an overnight business trip without putting too much of a strain on my shoulder.

What seems as a design flaw is the overall imbalance of the bag with the use of the shoulder strap. The d-rings for the detachable shoulder strap are too low causing the bag to be top heavy when carried with the shoulder strap and in result, is very uncomfortable and awkward.

Another complaint that I have is that the shoulder strap seems a little flimsy and is already showing signs of fray around the edges. Having had several nylon shoulder strap bags in the past, I can say I am not a fan of them fraying and falling apart more quickly than most. Also the shoulder pad is a mere thin piece of leather with no real padding or comfort features. This may not be deal breaker for some since the overall lightweight yet spacious and pocket loaded nature of the bag is great. I would see myself buying a stronger and more durable strap to change over down the road.

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BestLeather Conclusion

I would not have purchased this bag in person at the price listed. To me it seems a tad high. The pictures and lack of description on the website was misleading to me. However it is a convenient, spacious, and lightweight bag that may suit the needs to a busy traveler. It is also, as previously mentioned, a nice size bag to carry clothes in for an overnight or light weekend trip. Check it out –here-.

15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st

It’s sale time at AE and they are clearing the goodies out. Everything is between 15% and 35% off, but you already knew that. You can find good deals on the Allen Edmonds website and in their retail locations in the midwest. There are currently 49 shoes on sale.

If these sale prices are still too steep for your pocketbook than I recommend checking out this post on how to buy high end shoes at a larger discount on Ebay. My best purchase was a $650 pair of Alden Shell Cordovan shoes for $60. I will wear them today and for many days to come. Continue reading “15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st”

Paul Evans Grey Belt Review – $149

Over the past few years, the online market for dress shoes has proliferated, but few companies produce anything that can stand toe-to-toe with the likes of Alden, Allen Edmonds, and Crockett and Jones. Paul Evans is one of the few. Frustrated with the limited offering of stylish and affordable shoes from traditional manufactures, Ben Earley and Evan Fript set out to design a well-constructed, stylish shoe for a reasonable price. All of their shoes are hand built in Italy using Italian calfskin and are finished with a sleek Blake construction. But, I’m not here to talk about their shoes. They also provide belts and I have to say, they are pretty slick.

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Construction

The belt is handmade from thick, fine Italian leather, uses heavy-duty thread for stitching and is finished with a solid brass buckle. Everything about the construction screams durability and style, but the craziest part is that the belt is cut-to-fit. When I heard this, I immediately had images of the dual sided belts from the discount store come to mind, but once I realized how it worked, I was pleasantly surprised.

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What Paul Evans does is very tasteful. The buckle is a separate assembly that connects to the rest of the belt with a hefty Chicago screw. The part that is cut off is hidden between the buckle assembly, which gives the belt a seamless unity. Of course, this means that the owner must cut his new belt and then punch a hole for the screw or take it to a shoe shop to have them fit it for you. Even though the build quality is top notch and the materials are excellent, for the price, I would like the belt to fit me before it comes to my door. The design is ingenious and definitely allows Paul Evans to provide customers with more selection, but having measured or made-to-order belts available instead would definitely increase the value.

Function

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The belt from Paul Evans held up my trousers with style. Outside of doing exactly what a belt is supposed to do, its surprising thickness gave me confidence that I will be wearing it for many years to come without much worry of the leather breaking down.

Aesthetic

Paul Evans did a great job with this belt. The color is rich and deep and the look can be dressed up or down with relative ease making it incredibly versatile. On mine, the Chicago screw is exposed and the stitching is very noticeable making it a little bit harder to wear in extremely formal settings, but adds class to an otherwise casual look. The only part of the belt that looks rough is on the backside where some dye has bled through the stitching. Both of these issues are minor and probably have been remedied since their newer offerings have covered the screws and down played the stitching for a sleeker look.
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Conclusion

Paul Evans makes one mean belt. By putting together great styling with quality materials, this is one is tempting, but for the price, I would like to have it ready to wear as soon as I got it. If you do not mind the extra work and your are looking for dress belt that stands out, check out the selection on their site. While you are at it, spend some time drooling over their shoes.

Check out Paul Evans at www.paulevansny.com

35% Off Select Saddleback Leather Products

Saddleback Leather is clearing out their inventory of discontinued or slow moving items. I haven’t seen a sale like this before and they claim they won’t do another for the foreseeable future. 35% off on a leather product is very significant considering the high cost of making these bags. On top of the 35% off Saddleback Leather is also offering free shipping on orders over $200

Use the code PIGSFLY on the items on their sale page for the 35% off these certain items.Screen Shot 2014-09-29 at 8.14.16 PM

Classic Briefcase in carbon (black) – $369 to 431

Beast Duffel (!) in carbon – $589

Thin Briefcase in carbon – $299 to $308

Side Pocket Duffel in carbon – $425

Front Pocket Briefcase in carbon – $377

Leather Bible Cover in various colors – $26 to $28

Leather Suitcase in carbon – $685 to $764

Thin Front Pocket Briefcase – $310

 

 

 

 

 

 

 What do you think?

Mascon Leather Custom Leather Chef Knife Roll Review – $650

A chef’s knives are almost as important as their hands. Chefs use their hands to hold their knives, precisely cut the plate’s components, and present the diner with a reflection of their skill and essentially themselves. When I approached Artie Shell, owner of Mascon Leather, to make a custom leather knife roll that would both showcase and protect my valuable tools, Artie applied the similar expertise with his hands to create a piece of precision and presentation to not only protect my knives, but to compliment and showcase them.

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Artie Shell has been crafting handmade leather pieces in Williamsburg, Virginia since early 2011. What originally started as a hobby to make more durable book covers, knife sheaths and cell phone covers for his kids has since turned into a more serious and dedicated business. He named his company Mascon Leather after his family’s business, ‘Mas-Con Construction’ (masonry and concrete), started by his grandfather. Although Artie’s grandfather has passed on, his legacy and pride for family and hand-built items lives in Artie’s leatherwork. Sourcing the best leather hides, thread, and tools available, Artie designs custom one-of-a-kind pieces including wallets, knife sheaths, axe covers, knife/tool rolls, and messenger bags with the upmost attention to detail and customer consultation. Each piece is designed to be timeless and constructed to age beautifully. Artie also currently contributes and works with a growing leather community on Facebook. For the short time Artie has been working with leather, I am sure I am not alone when I say he has accelerated in his craft and far exceeded the expertise to a professional leatherworker.

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Construction

This particular knife roll is made from almost one whole hide of 5.0 oz (2 mm) weight English Dublin tan Horween leather. The hardware features 80 solid copper rivets and nickel plated brass hardware including 2 buckles with strap keeps, lobster-style clasps for the removable shoulder strap and a buckle on the shoulder strap with two strap keeps and d-rings. The stitching on the inside business card slot and gadget pouch is a high quality polyester thread. There is also an exposed aluminum bar on the underside of the handle for additional support.

Once unrolled, there are 12 knife/tool slots (including 2 small inverted ones towards the top), a business card slot, a pen or thermometer slot, a slot for a utility kitchen scraper, and a removable (snaps in and out) gadget pouch with d-rings on the back (to hang from a oven handle or pot rack).

The knife roll dimensions are 20 inches long x about 7 inches wide when rolled and when unrolled is 35 inches long x 7 inches wide. Without anything in it the case weighs about 5 pounds.

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Lastly, the leather knife roll has a handle on top and a removable and adjustable cross body shoulder strap.

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Function

This leather knife roll is extremely functional as my main knife case to use for a job. Sometimes in small work areas it is a bit awkward to unroll and reroll because of its size, and takes getting adjusted to.

Deep leather pockets with rivet dividers were custom cut and made to my knife specifications. The knives point downward with the handles exposed rather than the handles in the pockets and the blades exposed for reasons I’ll discuss in the aesthetic section of this review.

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The inside gadget pouch holds about 3-5 tools (depending on size) and closes with a simple flap tuck design. Again, the gadget pouch is removable and is easy to snap in and out of the knife roll.

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To say the only function of this leather roll is to hold and protect my knives is a crime. This bag is more like a piece of art or a fashion accessory that also happens to carry knives and tools. Expect to get a lot of head turns and compliments when going out with a piece like this.

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Aesthetic

No amount of words can describe seeing this piece in person. I unwrapped it similarly (if not more carefully) to a kid on christmas.

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The piece with its various stretch, pull-up marks, scars, and hardware components is a heavy duty industrial strength piece of equipment. It has some serious heft as one would expect in a full grain leather piece and when full of knives, it is even heavier. Long walking commutes may be straining on one’s shoulder and back. It definitely takes time to get used to but in my opinion I like the heaviness of it. It shows quality and durability.

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The pockets on the inside hold my knives very snug and securely with a little room incase I was to replace a knife (I will NEVER have to replace the knife roll) or a tool down the road in my profession. A debate that may arise with chefs is the decision to put the blades into the pockets with the handles pointing out rather than the other way as many other knife cases are designed. I chose this so my knives were more protected and less likely to hit against each other in travel. A concern I had as well was if the blades would rub against the rivets that are separating the pockets and damage the blade over time. Artie quickly assured me that the space between the rivets and the leather was significant that it would never be an issue. He even drew me a picture. Of course, Artie can design the pockets to hold the handles with the blades facing up if that is what you prefer.

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The knife roll unfolded features a large flap that covers the knives before being rolled. The large flap is left rustic, without a finished edge for style. I really love the edge as this is how the hide was originally. Others may prefer to have this edge finished and Artie is happy to accommodate. Another concern I had with the flap is that it did not fasten to the knife roll and therefore it was hard to align it just right to roll the case evenly every time.  Artie told me that the leather will be stiff for a bit but with more use it will form like a glove and soften up to make this task easier.  After 2 months of use I already see this happening.

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I requested a gadget pouch in the knife case because like other chefs I carry around various vegetable peelers, pastry brushes, wine openers, or other knick knacks that need a home too. Artie took this idea and made it even better than I could imagine. Not only did he create a perfect sized pouch but he made it removable with snaps and attached small d-rings to the backside to hang if desired. This idea is incredibly cool! It is very convenient to remove that pouch and keep it handy on my work station than to have to keep unrolling and re rolling to fetch a small tool.

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This is not just a knife roll though, it’s a chef briefcase. Nothing screams professional and class more than this leather knife roll does. To that extent, this is not the case you’ll want to take everywhere. Being that it is heavy and large, it may not be the tool case for a job in a small and busy kitchen. It’s comparable to a nice pair of leather shoes or boots – you wear them on a fancy or professional related situation and you aren’t going to necessarily wear them to a soccer game, a picnic, or a muddy day.

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 Customization

I’ll say it here and say it boldly-Artie Shell is one of the most personable, friendly, and accommodating custom craftsmen that I have ever had the pleasure to work with. Artie first set up an initial phone call to gauge what type knife roll I wanted, the size, and functionality. An experience you may find close to this may be a custom suit taylor or shoe maker. After I sent Artie the dimensions of all my knives and tools I wanted to carry in the leather roll, Artie immediately began to draw up ideas and shoot me input and questions through emails. It was a fun process seeing the stages of Artie’s work and being able to have constant input on different options along the way. I could tell from the beginning that Artie wanted to put as much time and dedication into my knife roll to make me 200% happy and satisfied.

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It was a throughly enjoyable experience to converse with Artie over the phone and through emails (about 50 or so). A great relationship formed between the two of us, the mind of a chef and the mind of leatherworker. Here are a few of my favorite converses between us:

Artie: “No rush! This means nothing to anyone but me, but since we’re sharing…The scariest part or the WHOLE process is making that first cut into a solid 20 + Square foot hide of genuine Horween leather. It’s nerve racking. but once it’s done, the fun begins because you can’t turn back.”

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Artie: “Another oddity about leather crafters- it’s so hard to toss scraps, no matter the size. I think, ‘There HAS to be something I can do with that, somewhere!’ or ‘If I toss this out today, I’m going to wish I had it next week!’ Yeah…we’re looney, us leather folks.”

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Artie: “Meant to ask: How do you feel about scars showing? Some hate it, others love it. got a piece here with a gorgeous scar I’d like to try to put on the strap. Or I can avoid it.

Me: “I like the scars. It’s real leather.”

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Artie: “I woke up in the middle of the night with the fear that I’d forgotten something. I forgot to put my company hang tag on the knife roll before I sent it. I’ve made about 59,000 items and put a tag on every one of them. then the flagship knife roll comes along, and I forget.

Me: “59,000 items in 3 years?? All yourself?!

Artie: “Well it feels like that for the amount of dedication and passion I put into each one of them. I rounded upward a tad (a lot).”

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Artie: “Been meaning to ask: did you want your initials branded on the bag?”

Me: “No it’s not necessary. I’ll know it’s mine. As will very one else.”

Artie: “Nice one! That made me laugh out loud!”

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BestLeather Conclusion

This product, like any other high quality leather pieces, may be considered a serious investment to some. With a price tag of $650 it is just that. The quality, durability, customization and time that goes into a piece like this is, in my opinion, well worth it.

Artie’s open line of consultation, willingness to try new things and get creative really speaks to the similar mind of a chef. As any chef will tell you, it starts with an idea and then a lot of preparation. The same hold’s true in Artie’s work. To own a custom leather knife roll from Mascon Leather speaks highly of the level of a chef and their professionalism.

Check it out here.

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Shoe Passion #591 “Double Monk” Shoe Review – $281

These shoes smell delicious. I’m not sure why that still stands out to me but the pleasure of their aroma is notable. It reminds me of a sweet woody smell with a factory twist. Though it seems strange to say the flavor is distinctly German. Dubbing themselves “The Berlin Shoe Brand,” SHOEPASSION is one of few German shoe manufacturers still making classics. Their heels are still produced in the recently featured Rendenbach factory from traditional designs and attached to contemporary shoes that feature modern technology. The “passion” poured into their craft is clear in their lovingly constructed website chock full of information and guides to selecting and maintaining shoes, a passion that is true to the company’s name. Zeal for product however is seldom enough to justify a $280 price tag, but a shoe like the #591 double monk-strap can stand on its own merit.

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SWORDS MAKE EVERYTHING BETTER

CONSTRUCTION

They are suitably well built. Monk straps shoes are formed in a similar manner to derbys meaning that the last is separated into two parts where the eyelets would be but are here covered with the strap. Flexible and well shaped, the strap is a sturdier alternative to laces and additionally strengthened by the use of metal buckles. These two buckles are attached to the shoe with pieces of elastane so as to allow the shoe to function as a slip-on at will – a course of action I cannot recommend if you lack a shoe horn with which to put them on.

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The sole is thick, all of the seams are clean and seamless as well as subtly double stitched for strength and the goodyear-welting is solid. Box calf leather covers the shoe, which is thinner than a shell cordovan, but also pliable enough to be more forgiving. Included in the packaging for the shoes is a pair of rubber vibram sole covers which a cobbler can put on for around ten dollars. This offers extra waterproofing and an extended sole life, which is a good idea for a three hundred dollar shoe.

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FUNCTION

Monk straps are generally less popular than derbys and oxfords and are therefore still somewhat of a rarity in America. They do have something alien to them, perhaps the strange process of fiddling with two straps rather than a set of laces when donning or removing them. This takes a little getting used to but eventually the process of removing each strap from the buckles is a cinch (faster than a pair of laces, in fact).

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As aforementioned this style is intended to be a slip-on which is not quite as seamless a process. Without a shoe horn attempting to slip monk-straps on and off would ruin them; it is still a bit dangerous with the horn. The weight of the shoe is the greatest inconvenience and left my surprised feet like overworked oxen at the end of a few days. Solid box-leather shoes with such a thick sole were not surprising with their weight though it should be taken into consideration if your intention is to wander city streets for longer than a couple hours.

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AESTHETIC

The dark brown of the last is a deep rich color featuring an artificial toe-cap patina and complemented by well chosen silver buckles that add to the sleek appearance. The cap toe proves a good choice for the target aesthetic of the monk-straps breaking up the length of an otherwise long toe. These are not considered formal footwear but semi-formal a few steps below patent leather oxfords and such. In this niche, #591 can be worn with a variety of jeans, slacks, and even the right shorts; good pairings abound with a good looking shoe, which is something that stretches back to the origins of the dress shoe.

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Even within the confines of staple dress shoe versatility the monk-strap is a unique shoe, one of its strongest points. In any group, even one of well-dressed men, the double monk-strap is still capable of standing out (a task considerably more difficult for its derby and oxford cousins.

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BestLeather CONCLUSION

At €219 ($281) SHOEPASSION’s #591 double monk-strap is among a wave of more affordable luxury shoes, comparable in quality to the American made Allen Edmonds. That much being said they still performed above my expectations. Though soft these are a reasonable option with a strong sole and good physical design that is aided greatly by how well they are constructed . A little heavy after extended periods of wear and difficult to slip on and off there is still enough charm and comfort (assuming they fit well, take UK sizing into account when purchasing a pair) in the laceless design to merit an investment in a pair of these German luxury shoes.

For more products from SHOEPASSION visit: http://www.shoepassion.com/

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How To Make Yourself A Huge Leather Desk Pad – $150

I have been wanting a desk pad for a while but the retail cost, available sizes, and quality levels have been holding me back. Saddleback Leather wants a hefty $213 for their admittedly nicely finished desk pad. That’s too rich for my taste considering all I want is a hefty piece of leather. Amazon’s offerings are chinsy and still expensive for what they are. So fine! I’ll make my own.

A trip to the Tandy Leather Store over in Spokane netted me a large side of ridiculously thick 13-14oz cowhide on sale for $100. It was easily large enough to cover the entire desk. You can make one also, and very easily.

You will need

  1. large hunk of leather
  2. straight edge
  3. measuring tape
  4. rotary cutter or exacto knife (Olfa Cutter worked well for me)
  5. Tandy Leather Edge Beveler
  6. Tandy Leather Burnisher
  7. Fiebings Neatsfoot Oil (or some other conditioner)

installation instructions

  1. Measure your desk and mark the dimensions on your suitably sized side of leather. I made my pad a couple inches large in each direction to let the edge of the leather sag over the edge of the desk.
  2. Use the straight edge and your cutter to slice out the pad. Go slow and press down hard so that you do not have to make a second pass.
  3. Run the edge beveler over the edges to take the sharp edge off. Continue at your discretion depending on how rounded you want the edges.
  4. Get the edges wet that you wish to burnish and run the Tandy Leather burnisher back and forth quickly to sear the edge with friction. Alternatively you can implement a dremel like below which would be much faster.
  5. Put heavy items where the leather stubbornly lifts up until it submits to your will.
  6. Slather your conditioner of choice on with a piece of sheeps wool. A large pad will consume quite a bit of conditioner.

results

Unless you buy a really nice piece of leather like A grade Herman Oak or Wicket & Craig you will likely have scars and various imperfections in the leather. I chose to accept this since I plan to treat this pad roughly and I didn’t want to pay the hefty prices for A grade sides. Now I have an impressive piece of leather covering my desk, the cherry wood is protected, the pad will last forever (practically), and it only cost me $150 or so.

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Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet Review – $605

be·spoke [ bi-ˈspōk ] – made to order: made to a customer’s specifications

Half-British. Half-Iranian. All Canadian. Andrew Diba is a British Columbian luxury bespoke leather designer who will personally meet with each of his customers to create any design that both he and the customer would be proud to own. No kits, instruction manual, or YouTube videos here – Andrew Diba has spent over five years in self-motivated learning through his own trial and error, an apprenticeship with a Budapest shoemaker, and designing and producing his own goods for house brands. To break through the limitations of price point and quantity, he has more recently branched out on his own, creating Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba to focus on the essentials of crafting instead of business.

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CONSTRUCTION

The Geometric Wallet is one of Andrew Diba’s flagship innovative designs. The design incorporates more pocket space while keeping it slim and interesting. This particular custom wallet is made with only two pieces from a single pristine high-grade juvenile American alligator skin chrome-tanned in Italy. The cutting of the skin is thoughtfully designed to maximize scale placement. The inner triangle is cut out from the (eh-hem) genital area where the scales coalesce into smaller rings for an attractive viewing window. There is lining even in the hidden slots, made from Australian kangaroo tanned in Italy and for good reason. Kangaroo provides the strongest leather for any given thickness, insuring lifelong durability and hold to the wallet’s shape. The inner leather is a terracotta vegetable-tanned Sokoto goatskin from Nigeria using unique tanning agents from the Bagaruwa tree (a.k.a. Acacia Arabica) which is then tanned again in the UK with Sumac. All imported exotic skins are sustainable leather sources and CITES-labelled and approved.


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Everything at Neo Nouveau is 100% hand-stitched to 10 stitches/inch by Andrew Diba with traditional saddle-making techniques and French linen threads. Because exotic leathers are frequently chrome-tanned, the edges cannot simply be burnished. This particular finish is hand-sanded and melted, re-sanded, and repeated several times using special French waxy edge paint with a six-month shelf-life. After six months, even if only a drop has been used, the rest is thrown away. No cutting corners here. This extra effort to find the optimal edge paint is to maximize the range of available colors while providing much more durability and water resistance. Finishing can take up to several days but the waxy edge doesn’t have the typical unnatural or plastic look and is much less likely to separate at folded edges due to increased wear.

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Tools, paint, thread, leather – quality is essential to this wallet’s construction.

For final confirmation and quality control, Andrew Diba e-mails multiple photographs of the custom item prior to any shipment to guarantee a satisfied customer. If it isn’t right, it’s thrown away.

FUNCTION

The sheer amount of details and construction of this particular wallet makes it so that it no longer functions as a wallet. Instead, it is a showpiece. I can’t bring myself to stuff too many things into it for fear of ruining its stunningly fluid look. Should I stuff an old Costco receipt and my five coffee stamp cards into it? Probably not. Will it hold everything if I wanted to? Of course. The wallet is thin enough to fit comfortably into both back and front pockets and the alligator is surprisingly soft and light. The leathers are expected to self-condition with oils from the hands which is good since you will find yourself not wanting to let go of this wallet. Andrew Diba recommends Saphir Reptan conditioner for all his exotic skins.

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AESTHETIC

Text doesn’t do this wallet justice. It is beautiful, well-crafted, and screams luxury. Why waste time on describing the wallet when I can just post photos. The best part? No eyesore of a brand or label. It is better matched for formal or chic apparel but with something at this level you can wear it with anything and no one will dare criticize you.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet is a standout leather creation. At $605 with free international shipping for this combination of materials, you get a personally constructed heirloom quality product without breaking the bank. This is a bespoke good and as such, the entire construction can be customized online or in person, from color of edging and stitching to leather combinations ranging from Horween to shark. It may be an ambitious investment for some people, but once you have one in your hands, you won’t regret it.

Hungant Peccary Leather Gloves Review – $140

Do you need a pair of gloves for touching nice things in nice clothes? We are talking about driving, holding your wife’s hand in the cold, or driving an Aston Martin. These may be for you. These are sartorial gloves. These are fancy gloves. They are not for weeding the garden or splitting firewood.

This pair arrived from the ever prestigious LeatherGloves4U on Etsy with Hungant Leather branding. Now I know what you are thinking. I was thinking the same thing. With a name that prestigious and classy these must be incredible gloves. Or not. Yes, the name and shopping venue is somewhat of a disappointment. You shouldn’t easily imagine buying gloves appropriate for driving your AMG Mercedes on Etsy from what easily sounds like the dollar store for gloves. This time, however, it is permissible because these are good gloves.

What in the world is Peccary?

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It’s pigskin. I know, more prestige right? This funny looking piggy’s hide is prized for it’s softness so it is actually very desirable. The softness makes these gloves much more suitable to fancy wear rather than work wear. Splitting a cord of firewood wearing these would reduce them to shreds of nice soft peccary leather.

The hair follicle marks are very apparent, as you can see. From a distance this gives the leather a textured look. For those wanting the smooth texture of cowhide, maybe look at cowhide gloves. These have an attraction all their own in my opinion. For more information about peccary leather click here.

construction

While the construction is simple, it is certainly well done. There are two components, leather and thread. So how good is the stitching? The below picture of the stitching on the backhand The stitching is not very noticeable so I magnified it using a macro lens. It is impressively precise stitching.

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Upon first seeing the gloves laying flat I was underwhelmed by the external seams. The glove seemed chunky. However, once you slip them on the complete smoothness of the slide onto your hand brings it all into a better perspective. It’s really smooth slide onto your hand. The cashmere wool lining feels warm (won’t really be able to know until winter). It may not have tucked seams but it does feel seamless inside and I think that is an appropriate compromise.

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I have no doubt that with care these gloves will last a long time – but a lot of emphasis on WITH CARE. Any usage with constant chafing will not be suitable for this kind of soft leather. You will wear through it. These are for gentle use. Driving, walking, breathing, looking fancy, etc. Light work only. They are not wimpy gloves but have an ideal range of use that they are designed for. Want something tougher?

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The fit of these gloves is very good. I followed the supplied instructions and found my hands to be a size eight. The gloves are fitted nicely without any looseness around the palm or at the end of the fingertips. With this kind of fit you tug gently at each fingertip to remove the gloves.

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Which color would you like?

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aesthetic

These gloves look really good worn with any classic material like wool, leather, or cotton. I think they are particularly fetching with a good watch. In this case it is a Seiko 007.

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functionality

It’s not cold enough yet this fall to know the cold weather suitability of these gloves. I can speculate that they will be fine for the dash to the car in the ten degree weather we get here in the pacific northwest but I won’t be taking them skiing. The other functionality factor is that the waterproofness of these gloves is similar to that of a sponge. The softness makes for comfortable gloves but they also soak up water easily. Constantly getting these gloves wet is going to shrink them, make them brittle, and generally ruin them. Don’t get them wet. Remember, these are fancy gloves for doing fancy things.

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BestLeather conclusion

The peccary leather gloves from Hungat Leather are expensive high quality gloves, no doubt about it. Though expensive for gloves that you cannot use rigorously, if you compare them to cashmere lined Dents gloves (very famous english glove maker) these are relatively affordable. You must use them appropriately (lightly) to fully enjoy them.

Check them out here.

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This is the most accurate color representation.

What do you think?

Anthology Gear Wear “The Reckoner” Laptop Bag Review – $539

For those of us needing a refresher on music terminology, Google defines anthology as a published collection of songs typically issued in one album.  With such a word as the name of your company, it is obvious that music related gear is a central focus.  Enter Anthology Gear Wear, based in Greenwood, Missouri, a maker of some of the finest music related leather goods on the planet.  Anthology focuses on designing and crafting gear that will last a lifetime and then some.  After receiving their “The Reckoner” Laptop Bag to review, I became a believer in how they could offer a 100 year warranty on all of their goods.

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CONSTRUCTION

After just a few minutes of perusing The Reckoner it was obvious that the bag was built and constructing to exacting standards by skilled craftsman, who reside in the heart of Mexico’s high end leather goods region.  The bag’s primary purpose is to protect sensitive gear and it is built well to accomplish that.  To open the bag, you must first unlatch the strap connected to the distressed nickel buckle.  The distressed hardware on the bag, by the way, looks fantastic especially when married to the Aged Steel color of the bag, which is a dark grey.  The bag also comes in a beautiful Black Whiskey (see picture at the bottom of the article).

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Upon opening the top flap, you then unzipper the black, oversized YKK zipper which reveals a large pocket on each side of the bag and an open space in the middle.  One end of the bag is clearly designed for a laptop as big as 15″, as its sleeve is padded between a layer of pigskin and a layer of finely ground suede. The other side of this sleeve is also padded, as is the bottom of the bag.  This bag is clearly meant to protect your laptop, which is refreshing in the world of leather goods where much of the time your sensitive electronic equipment has no more padding than a single layer of leather.

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Brian, Anthology’s proprietor, determined to layer the bag with a softer material where all electronic items would rest, this to prevent scratching and marring. The other end of the bag’s inside has a pigskin sleeve, where you can stash your music, chargers, or other miscellaneous gear.  The bag’s size is somewhat misleading.  At 12″ high, by 16″ wide, by 4″ deep, the bag is similar in size to many other briefcases on the market, but it seems to hold so much more.  Other than holding my 15″ Macbook Pro and my Ipad, you can comfortably add some books, chargers and accessories to the bag with room to spare.  When speaking to Brian about the bag he indicated that he carries most of his music gear in this bag when traveling to gigs.  It fits a lot without feeling like a large bag.  Anthology does offer the same bag in a larger size, for laptops up to 17″, in case you need to carry some additional space.

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After opening the top flap you will find a smaller storage compartment meant for smaller gadgets and accessories.  This compartment has some additional sleeves where you can secure your Ipad mini or similar sized tablet, your phone, and some pens (or really short guitar sticks).  It also has a zipper that runs the length of the bag, revealing yet another compartment for separating some of your items.  This compartment pulls out about four inches or so, providing additional storage space.  The front of the bag also reveals a small, vertical zipper for stashing tickets, passes, or equivalent.  The back of the bag has an open sleeve for adding your favorite sheet music or magazine while on the go.

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We have established that the bag has a compartment or sleeve for just about anything you would need one for.  The bag is also built so tough that you could probably throw it out of your car at freeway speeds and your laptop would still be just fine.  It really feels that tough.  I counted no less than 38 rivets on the body of the bag, as well as the strap, that help hold this bag together.  That is on top of the tough as nails polyester thread used to stitch the bag together. The handle is also secured to the top flap by being riveted to a steal plate, that is covered with pigskin (the bag’s main liner).

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The bottom of the bag is supported by what feels like an indestructible sheet of polycarbonate.  It has a diamond embedded design and gives the bag an added degree of ruggedness, as well as helps the bag to stand upright easily.  Tough Tough Tough.

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DESIGN

Adding to a very robust design, this bag does not skimp on aesthetic appeal.  It is not just extremely functional, but it looks great too.  That is in part to the two strips of leather that wrap around the top and front of the bag.  One is approximately 4″ wide and the other about 1/2″ wide.  They are purposefully slightly off center and give the bag some visual appeal and a sense of higher design.

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The majority of the bag’s edges are wrapped in either pigskin or the same leather used for the bag’s main construction.  While some may like the edges exposed, this look is more sophisticated.  It allows you to feel a little more comfortable carrying the bag to a business meeting, but still hauling your music gear to a concert.  In general, I found the bag to be a mix of high end fashion design and rugged leatherworking.  It is a bag that you can use and pull off in a variety of settings with ease.

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LEATHER

The Reckoner is made with chrome tanned full grain leather.  The outer shell of the bag, as well as the strap and front pocket, is made from cowhide leather that is approximately four ounces thick, a hearty boot leather thickness.  As mentioned, The Reckoner uses generous amounts of pigskin, of the softer variety, which helps to save on weight (the bag weighs in at six pounds), but also gives the bag a smooth interior.  The pigskin is not thick, probably one ounce thick or thereabouts, but it does not need to be.  It is one of the strongest animal skins available and is very tough. The use of the finely ground suede also provides the softness that your electronics desire.

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The handle of the bag is secured to riveted posts with a D ring on each side and is a combination of both leather and neoprene.  The top of the handle is leather, the bottom is a soft neoprene.  The bag was designed this way to provide a softer grip when carrying the bag for longer stretches.  I tend to be a leather purist in a number of ways and would probably prefer an all leather handle, even though the neoprene feels a bit more comfortable.  Some of the leather sleeves also contain some elastic bands that help keep things in place.  I honestly do not know how durable this elastic is, but with a 100 year warranty, there is not much to worry about.  These are small gripes though for such a ridiculously well made bag.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

Excellent design.  Visual appeal.  Sturdy as hell construction (hell is sturdy I suppose).  Thick, beautiful leather.  38 rivets.  A darn cool name.  Loads of space for your laptop and music gear, or any other gear for that matter.  The Reckoner Laptop Bag from Anthology Gear Wear has all of these features with more to boot.  Does BestLeather recommend this bag?  Oh yes, we do.

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Pact Leather 11″ Satchel Review – $500

Pact is a leather company based out of Spokane, Washington. Two friends put their creative minds together and produced an amazing concept for a leather company. Their products come from two designers who love quality and creativity. You can see this in what they have created. Their items are uniquely made 100% out of leather.

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Appearance

This satchel has a very unique appearance. There is a major difference between this bag and others. That difference is that it is made completely of leather.

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The designers at PACT design and construct items strictly out of leather. The result of that is beautifully weaved leather items. The patina of this satchel is a dark caramel color giving it a very classy look.

Design & Durability

The design of the bag is very innovative and different from anything I’ve seen. Between the weaved sides and all around design of it I get comments and questions about it every time I leave my house. The leather is strong yet soft and flexible. It scratches easily (in a good way) which adds to the patina and character of the satchel.

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Construction

The construction of this bag is what makes it so amazingly unique and special. As I said before, this bag is made completely out of leather. This means there are no clasps, buckles, stitching, glue, or anything of the sort. Simply 100% beautiful leather. The bag is cut and weaved with such precision and attention to detail that it is not loose or in danger of falling apart in any way. The sides are both weaved leather from bottom to top and end up creating the strap. The strap is an over the shoulder strap with a simple, yet elegant, fold pattern at which you can undo and change the length of it. I personally love the way that they designed this bag with the weaved pattern on the sides and strap. It makes it so that it can be very professional or very casual depending on the situation. The front of the satchel has a flap that comes from the back, covers the top, and folds under a strap in the front. The appearance from the front is simple yet practical and aesthetically pleasing. The back has a pocket that is 3/4 the length of the bag and displays the small, unique PACT symbol.

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Usage

The PACT Satchel is the perfect bag for taking your iPad, tablet, or 11 inch laptop to a business meeting. It’s also great for taking to the coffee shop with your computer and a few notebooks. It’s not the best for carrying around small items due to the lack of pockets. However, if it is used for books, notebooks, and a small computer or tablet it is very useful and classy looking.

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Conclusion

I highly recommend the PACT Satchel. It is very practical, classy, and unique. It is made well with quality leather and will last for ages. It looks fantastic as a simple bag for your small computer and notebooks or it can accentuate your classy, professional side in a business meeting. Either way, you’re awesome points go up with this satchel by your side. Overall I’m very impressed with this bag. PACT makes a great product.

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Waxhaws Leather Co. iPhone 5 Signature Design Wallet Review – $78  

The Battle of Waxhaws was a pivotal but barely talked about battle during the Revolutionary War which galvanized American Patriots to ultimately win the war. The Waxhaws Leather Company is a small quiet California-based company less than two years old, created with the goals of producing classic and timeless full-grain leather pieces against today’s trend of softer, manipulated, mass-produced leather goods targeted at the pockets of female shoppers. Its owner, John Fred, prides himself on his honesty and work ethic passed down to him by his grandfather. Originally inspired by the Coach and Hartmann of decades past, John Fred aims to create focused and practical leather goods for men and women using full grain vegetable-tanned English bridle leather carefully selected to patina and burnish gracefully.

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CONSTRUCTION

This is a small family affair. John Fred designs his own concepts with the occasional nod of approval from his wife (who just happens to be a professional designer). The Signature Design Wallet is crafted using Italian full grain vegetable-tanned leather with three card slots and a full length compartment. All leather materials are imported from Italy and manufactured by an experienced Chinese production firm personally visited and chosen by John Fred. The leather is designed to wrap around the entire wallet including the interior whereas other wallets sometimes fill this space with cheaper microfiber or suede. Special attention was also given to the rubber casing holding the phone. As the area most prone to any wear and tear on the wallet, a special 3M adhesive is used to seal the casing to the wallet. On top of all this, John has a satisfaction guarantee and lifetime full replacement warranty for all his products and provides direct personal communication through e-mail. He uses and tests all his product lines himself and has a video on his website demonstrating the appearance, malleability, and durability of his own iPhone wallet case after long term use. With the upcoming release of the iPhone 6, a similar case will be released for the new dimensions.

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FUNCTION

Since this is full-grain leather, the brand new cover does not immediately lie flush with the phone screen. However, with time and natural conditioning from your hands, the leather softens and conforms around the phone. The pockets are useful but not numerous enough to function as an entire wallet. This is a good thing considering the main purpose of the wallet is a phone case and carrying tons of weight will only get in the way of making phone calls. The rubber casing has a solid attachment to the leather base and makes a snug fit with cutouts for all the speakers and cameras of the phone. The side buttons are guarded nicely but still easily pressed. For someone used to a plain silicone case, it takes time to get used to opening or bending back a cover to use a phone, but there is definite extra protection to the screen with the full grain leather padding.

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AESTHETIC

Instead of tearing away the packaging when you first receive the wallet, you will want to keep it. It comes in a handsome gift box which opens to an even nicer color and smell of full-grain whiskey (or black) veggie-tanned leather. The wallet is subdued in its appearance. There are no gimmicks or trendy style-lines. It is compact but beautiful. The leather looks like it is just begging to start building its own patina with the oil from your hands. Inside the surprisingly full leather interior adds that extra quality and luxury not found in most mass-produced leather iPhone wallets. My $3 silicone case from the mall went straight into the wastebasket. Never again.

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 BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Waxhaws Leather Co. iPhone 5 Signature Design Wallet is sold on the Waxhaws, Amazon, and Etsy websites. Offered at a reasonable price with free two-day Amazon Prime shipping available, it has earned a perfect 5/5 Amazon rating and deserves it. It is simple, it is quality, and it is beautiful.

Waxhaws Leather Co. Key Case Review – $42

Waxhaws Leather Company is a young company dedicated to producing classic and timeless full-grain leather pieces. Made of the same leather as the Waxhaws Leather Co. iPhone 5 Signature Design Wallet, the Waxhaws Leather Co. Key Case is personally designed by John Fred using Italian full grain vegetable-tanned English bridle leather carefully selected for its ability to patina and burnish gracefully.

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Each product arrives in a handsome gift box.

CONSTRUCTION

This minimalistic key case is created with durability and practicality in mind. It is comprised of a single piece of full-grain leather folded and stitched together with a looped cotton cord through the top – simple yet tough.

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FUNCTION

Unlike your standard key case with built-in key holders, this case is created as an accessory to your own keychain. Simply attach your keychain to the inside loop. When you want to cover your keys, pull the cord tight on the outside and your keys will be brought into their protective leather case. This is particularly useful in situations where you don’t want your keys jingling in your pocket or showing through your pants and ruining your sophisticated look. Most importantly, this prevents scratches to your mobile devices or in my case, a brand new leather iPhone case that had already received a large scratch from being kept next to my keys (ARGH).

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Attach keys to inside loop
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Pull up on the outer loop to bring the keys inside.

One obvious downside to this case is the additional bulk to your keychain and an extra step when using your keys. Fortunately, this case can be easily slipped off in situations when you want to minimize your pocket fill or don’t care about protecting your pocket contents.

AESTHETIC

The key case arrives in the signature Waxhaws gift box. Holding the soft yet tough leather, it is immediately obvious that it is made from the same quality leather used in all Waxhaws goods. The design is simple to minimize bulk and maximize utility but lightly accented with rounded and geometric corners and the debossed Waxhaws logo. In the whiskey color, it looks rich and classic.

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BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Waxhaws Leather Co. Key Case is sold on the Waxhaws, Amazon, and Etsy websites. At $42.00 it is moderately priced and may not be a must-buy for everyone. It is otherwise perfect as a unique gift for those with discerning tastes in leather and a smart investment for anyone looking to protect their valuables from their keys.

Creel Leather Calf and Zander Leather Bifold Wallet Review – $180

The source of leather, known to most, is usually cow hide, pig skin, or even alligator but to my surprise fish skin can be made into leather as with this collection of wallets from Creel Leather based in Wiltshire, England. Luxurious and soft calf’s leather with bright and shimmering zander fish skin leather makes quite the statement. Enter the world of exotic leathers. IMG_7476 Jonathan Gurney founded Creel Leather in 2010 after years of being a lawyer and yearning to let his creative side burst out. Well made products such as shoes and various other leather goods always tickled Jonathan’s fancy so he decided to take a few leather work classes and try his hand at it. After getting an understanding of process and work that goes into quality and luxury leather goods Jonathan realized his skills were in design and sourcing of materials rather than the actual manufacturing. Jonathan designs and sources the materials for his products 100%. He then sends samples and designs to larger manufacturers in the UK for the precision work and is looking to expand to other countries as well.

Construction

The outside of the wallet is comprised of a black calf’s leather that Jonathan sources from long established leather dealers in the UK. The leather comes from calves in the middle east and India and is treated at various tanneries in Europe and Asia.

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The shimmering showcase of which is the red fish skin leather on the inside and the card slots is derivative of a zander fish which is a freshwater fish belonging to the perch family of fish. The tannery is owned by a Russian woman and her business partner who has a chemical engineering background and has spent many years developing the tanning process for fish skin and developing dyes that accentuate and complement the scale pattern and texture of the fish leather. They source their zander skins from the Baltic Lakes.

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The wallet has 6 main card slot pockets with 2 hidden pockets and 2 bill pockets.

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The card slots and two bill pockets are lined with a fantastic red silk almost matching the color of the fish skin leather. The silk is called ‘Silk Dupion’ is sourced from a manufacturer in South India.  The silk is machine loomed for extra density and strength.

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Lastly the stitching is made of a strong nylon.

Empty the wallet weighs about 2 ounces  and measures (closed) 4.5″ x 0.25″ x 3.5″.

Function

The thing I appreciate the most of the function of this wallet is that it is big and can hold a lot if you need it to. The pockets are very soft and flexible and there is ample room in them as well as the back bill pockets.

One thing that takes time to get adjusted to with some leather wallets is the ease of putting in and pulling out cards and especially cash. In a busy situation on the go, I get agitated that I can’t pull out cash let alone store access bills and receipts in a smaller wallet if I need to. This is not the case with this wallet. With multiple cards, receipts and a wad of cash, it is still easy to put things in and pull things out of this wallet.

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I’ve been using this wallet as a backup wallet when traveling. I keep my minimal essentials in my every day carry wallet and put other things in this wallet like extra cash, extra credit cards and discount cards that I won’t always use and receipts. If I’m feeling fancy or just in the need to carry extra cash or cards on me, I can easily convert my everyday cards to this wallet and go out.

Aesthetic

In terms of the design and materials, this is a luxury wallet that not only uses higher end leathers but accentuates them as well. The black calf’s leather paired with the red zander leather is a flashy statement that holds to the context of the exquisite and exotic leather not to mention the red silk pocket lining.

The calf’s leather is subtle and soft and reminiscent of a well broken in leather. There is no stiffness to this leather whatsoever. Being black there are no visible scars, scratches or other blemish marks from a months use, but I suspect the patina to start to develop over time to a glossier finish.

The Zander fish leather on the inside is very soft and pliable as well. It does not smell of fish at all and in fact, smells nice just like any other nostalgic smell of quality leathers I have encountered. The glossy finish and uniform red color suggests that this leather will remain scratch free. My first impression of the fish skin leather was that it lacked a certain toughness for being so thin. Although I love the idea of fish skin leather, the finish is unnatural for me being a bright and glossy red. Another small detail I noticed is that the leather is sticky or tacky especially on a humid day. I noticed this dilemma lessen after some use and wear.

The silk is exactly what it is: a smooth and luxurious material that compliments the fish skin rather and calf’s leather while offering a soft and smooth protector for one’s credit cards, bills, and other items.

The stitching on this wallet is minimal and blends in to a point were it is barely noticeable. This was the point in the design to have a lightweight yet strong stitch but remain hidden as to not take away from the leathers.

Size wise, the wallet is what most would consider to be a large sized bifold wallet.   With the 8 card pockets and 2 bill slots, one can hold a fair amount. I don’t tend to carry a lot in my wallet so I tend to aim for minimal wallets. One can hold a minimal amount in this wallet and still retain a thin and lightweight profile. If the wallet is packed full, I would suspect this would greatly increase the bulk and shape of the wallet not to mention create and extra bulge in one’s jeans or other pockets. Some will appreciate having the extra room if needed but I personally feel that one is tempted to use more room given a bigger wallet. This is about preference and convenience in the wallet world.

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 BestLeather Conclusion

This is a luxury wallet and less of a everyday wallet. This is not a rugged wallet that gets ugly and wears in like many other wallets featured on BestLeather.org. It is however an exotic, beautiful and statement piece that is highly functional and convenient as well as lightweight.

Check it out here.