Robert Hale, Author at BestLeather.org

December 28, 2016December 19, 2017

Turek Leather Works Hennepin Wallet Review – $89

We are privileged to experience many wallets here at BestLeather. One thing I’ve learned from reviewing so many is that often a very simple design can be the most pleasant to use, and Turek Leather Work’s Hennepin wallet is a great example of this. Made with Horween Chormexcel, the Hennepin is great to the touch and is a great option for a front-pocket wallet.

Turek Leather Works is based in Illinois, making all their products right here in the USA. They name their products after legendary explorers and adventurers. The Hennepin is named after Louis Hennepin, known for his exploration of interior America in the 17th century. In a small way following its namesake, the Hennepin wallet was designed for those venturing towards the new trend of front pocket wallets.

Handmade with Horween’s famous Chromexcel leather, the Hennepin is very soft to the touch and feels great in your hands. At the same time, the leather is a good thickness and durability isn’t an issue. The thick thread is saddle stitched and expertly done with no irregularities.

Functionally there’s not any surprises. Four card slots that can handle about two cards each and a “hidden” pocket behind them. The slots are all easy to use, and this wallet works well with as much or as little as you need. I’d say the only small glitch is that the softness of the chromexcel and the stitches along the top edge occasionally cause a snag when I’m pulling cards in and out of the back pockets.

The two things that make the Hennepin stand out to me the most are the aesthetic and the “feel” of using it.

Visually, it’s a pleasure. The Chromexcel shows just enough of its distinct marbling texture on the outside to give a sort of mysterious, deep look. On the inside the coveted Horween stamp! The color of the thread stands out yet compliments the brown of the leather.

It’s can be hard to describe the “feel” of a product, but here goes. First, the Hennepin has a good weight distribution. It’s nice and easy to flip open and closed. Also, Chromexcel has a soft yet sturdy feel in your hands. The size and thickness is just right to grip and pull in and out of your pockets. The bottom line is that the Hennepin is the kind of wallet that puts a smile on your face when you get to use it.

The look and feel are great, handmade construction is impeccable, and Horween’s Chromexcel never fails to satisfy. The price point is on par for the caliber of this wallet, and I highly recommend the Turek Leather Works Hennepin wallet.

December 9, 2016December 19, 2017

Kisetsu Aki Wallet in Crazy Horse Leather – $99

We review products quite often that are a part of our reader’s “everyday carry” items. A typical everyday carry includes wallet, keys, cell phone, and often a multi-tool Swiss Army type knife. The Kisetsu Aki wallet is mostly wallet, and a bit of the multi-tool. This wallet has more features than any I’ve personally used, and manages it all in an impressively minimal form.

Let’s make a quick list. Inside this thin package we’ve got:

External single card pocket
Internal single card quick access pocket
Pull-out thicker pocket for multiple less-used cards
Pen
Cash/receipt strap
Micro-SD card slot
Secure coin pocket

The first of the Aki’s signature features is the external single card pocket, or what they call the “ninja slot.” This card will be hidden when not in use, but when you push on the small window, the card pops up just enough to grab. My hope is that this will become more smooth with lots of use, but in the weeks I’ve used it, it’s actually been fairly hard to push the card up. Pro tips: using both hands makes it easier, and cards with textured or raised lettering are much easier to push out than perfectly smooth cards. Despite the force necessary, having a card accessible without needing to open the rest of the wallet does have a certain convenience to it.

The inner multi-card pocket uses a pull tab for easy access, and the single card pocket on top of that is good for your second most used card. Cards are RFID protected.

I’m a big fan of the pen. It’s tiny and barely noticeable in the crease of the wallet, but has saved me a handful of times. The Aki comes with a single replacement cartridge.

Next up is the cash/receipt strap. The best part of this feature is that there’s no dormant space taken up if you don’t have any cash on you. Since I rarely have cash or receipts, this was great for me. When I actually do use it it’s a bit more cumbersome than a typical cash slot. It does make things more visible and, if handled correctly, easier to get out, but placing things in it is tricky and the pile of paper can get in the way of other features, such as the coin pouch.

While we’re talking about the coin pouch…this is something I use very rarely, but sure is handy when I need it. The edge of the pocket has a small flap that you can slip under the pocket itself to keep coins secure. It takes a second to open and close, but has never let coins slip out and, like the cash strap, takes up no unnecessary space.

Clearly the emphasis here is the swiss-army level feature set in a thin package, but of course we at BestLeather have to discuss the leather, other materials, and construction. The leather used for the Aki is called “crazy horse leather.” Crazy horse is, contrary to the name, a cow leather. It has some pull up properties, and a touch of the suede/nubuck feel at the surface. Kisetsu uses full grain crazy horse for the Aki. It is thin and has been sewn and folded over several non-leather components such as what appears to be a nylon lining for the coin pocket and other features. The non-leather materials become the weakest link, likely breaking down within an owner’s lifetime. However, construction is overall good, and the Aki should last for quite a few years.

If you’re looking for a product that leverages some of the good qualities of leather and combines that with lots of fun and useful features in a minimal/front pocket package, I’d recommend the Kisetsu Aki. Kisetsu has clearly put lots of thought into this product. Not all the features function as nicely as I hoped, but I’d say the biggest advantage of the Aki is that it’s incredibly thin and makes it very easy to go minimal, but has the necessary accommodations for when you do need to hold more.

October 30, 2016December 19, 2017

High On Leather Hiking Backpack Review – $138

Last year we published a review of High On Leather’s goat-leather satchel. It was one of our most hotly contested reviews–in fact, yours truly even got involved in the debate! High On Leather took the feedback to heart, and decided to start making some products in our beloved, tried-and-true cowhide, and created the full-grain Hiking Backpack. High On Leather has asked us to give their new and improved design a fresh look.

High On Leather was founded in 2013. Based in India, they’re striving to overcome the notion that quality leather needs to be expensive. High On Leather prides itself on using higher quality hides and tanning concepts than competitors, particularly in goat leather, which is infamous for often being cheap and smelling terrible. Thankfully, for this review, we can set the goat leather debate aside.

The cowhide used for the Hiking Backpack uses a tan that results in a crazyhorse type of leather; a gentle suede/nubuck feel to the touch, soft yet strong, with some distressing and pull-up aesthetically. The leather is unlined and reasonably thick through the main body and pockets. This is important especially at the base, which will likely take a fair amount of abrasive wear. The leather is quite a bit thinner on the shoulder and closure straps, however, which are the highest pull stress points of the bag. The shoulder straps use a layer of polyester lining on the underside, making them extremely grippy. This lining is also used on the flaps over each pocket.

If you’re wondering why I mention the use of lining, there are two big reasons. Since this lining is polyester, it won’t have the longevity of the leather, making it the “weakest link” of the product. It isn’t used in any load-bearing ways for the Hiking Backpack, but this brings me to my second point: such lining creates a thicker appearance, even though the strong leather that we want is actually much thinner than it appears.

Stitching is quality and uniform and the thread is fairly thick. No rivets are used. The hardware has so far held up well and appears to be made of quality metal.

Overall, this is a fairly well built backpack. While it may not compare to the longevity and durability of other leather backpacks that utilize thicker leather and additional reinforcement in construction, the High On Leather Hiking Backpack will well outdo many typical nylon backpacks which are often in the same price range.

Functionally the Hiking Backpack strikes a good balance of space and organization. The main compartment is a medium sized bucket of space with a small polyester zipper compartment at the top that’s good for a wallet, phone or your keys. Then you have three good pockets around the outside, two with a magnet closure and one with a more secure buckle, for organizing smaller items. It’s not enough for a vacation, but it’s served me well as an overnighter and for school items. I must confess that I’ve never actually tried it for hiking! The thin straps, high weight of leather, and vulnerability to water have prevented me from trying.

The buckles are a bit finicky, particularly with how thin the straps are. These closure straps only have one hole, so no length adjustment, which I would have liked with the main compartment closure. The main compartment has a drawstring (drawleather?) closure, so if the buckle won’t close or you’re in a hurry you can still close your items in pretty securely. The part-canvas handle at the top is convenient for quickly grabbing the backpack. Many leather satchels need to be buckled close in order to use the top handle, so having one that I can use anytime was refreshing.

For a mere $138, a paltry sum compared to backpacks made by top leather brands, the High On Leather Hiking Backpack is a great introductory leather product. The thinness of leather and lack of rivet reinforcement at stress points makes me think this will need replacing in the user’s lifetime, but it should well outdo standard nylon backpacks (normally a comparison we’re not interested in making, but since the price range fits, we’ll make it). I’ve gotten heaps of compliments on this bag, and for carrying a modest amount it can fit the bill in a variety of situations. If you’re aware of the setbacks and looking for a leather backpack that saves the bank, this may be just right for you.

October 13, 2016December 19, 2017

E3 Supply Co Passport Notebook & Tactical Keychains Review

The first time I went to E3 Supply Co’s website, I thought my web browser had auto-filled in a website from my history–why was I going to a page about motorcycles? I was in the right place though. E3 began by making custom motorcycles, and carried that spirit of freedom into making killer leather accessories. We’re going to look at a couple items that would fit right in with any biker’s every day carry–E3’s Passport Notebook and Tactical Keychain series.

Horween Leather Passport Notebook

There’s lots of great options out there for a small leather notebook cover. E3’s Passport Notebook is distinguished in that it’s kept very simple (no card or pen slots), but can hold two smaller Scout notebooks. The Horween Chromexcel used is nice and thick, and as soft yet strong as we’ve come to know and love of this leather. It looks great and E3’s wing logo is very cool.

Elastics at the centerfold are used to hold the notebooks in the cover, and another elastic is used to keep it closed when not in use. This is a great system that makes the Passport Notebook very easy to use. It’s quick to pull out and jot notes when the moment comes, and with some flexing can lay nice and flat. One unexpected use I found when I only needed one notebook was to use the freed-up elastic to hold cash or receipts. A drawback about the elastics is that they’ll be far outlived by the Chromexcel, but they should be quite simple to replace once they wear out.

Chromexcel Tactical Keychain V1 & V2

Everyone needs keys, and every key needs a good keychain. E3 offers two options of their Tactical Keychain, and I’ve had the chance to test out both. V1 is for those who prefer to clip their keys to their belt loops, and V2 is for those who like to snap the entire keychain to their belt and unclip their keys when they need them (or perhaps those who want to save a few dollars on the less expensive of the two). I’ll let the visible wear-in on mine show which I preferred!

Both versions are well made with the same thick Chromexcel as the Passport Notebook. V1 uses a thick stitch at each corner to hold three folded layers of leather together and the hardware in place, and V2 uses a single snap rivet to keep its two layers of folded Chromexcel in place. Hardware is military spec Hk style rifle sling clips. The PVD coating on the clips is starting to wear on the contact points of my clips, but this shouldn’t affect function or longevity. Everything involved is tough enough to handle the abuse a keychain takes for years to come.

BestLeather Conclusion

E3 Supply Co. is a cool company with some great products. Their Chromexcel Passport Notebook and Tactical Keychains are simple, well put together items with our recommendation. Prices are reasonable as well–the Passport Notebook is $45, and the tactical keychains are $39 for V1 and $29 for V2.

E3 has many other great accessories to offer, as well. Be looking forward to a review of their Holster Style Slim Wallet in our upcoming wallet roundup as well as a review for their Apple Watch straps in the coming weeks.

October 10, 2016December 19, 2017

Gray Bull Leather Co. Classic Leather Belt Review — $59

Update (March 2017): Sadly, Gray Bull Leather Co. is no longer in business. Check out our belts category for other options.

What happens when you take two university business students who are tired of poor quality products? You get a no-frills, tanky belt that looks great and should last a lifetime–for a reasonable price, at that. That’s exactly what you get from Gray Bull Leather Co. and their Classic Leather Belt.

Let’s start with the leather. It’s thick–10oz thick, to be exact. It’s also vegetable tanned leather, wax and grease stuffed and finished to make it weather resistant and sure to not color your pants. One thing you’ll typically see with belts is skiving, or thinning, at the fold point around the buckle. Not Gray Bull. The leather remains 10oz through the fold, and while this does lead to an occasionally unwieldy large piece of leather, it avoids removing strength from the most vulnerable part of the belt. Edges are gently burnished, smooth but not glossy.

The buckle is appropriately thick and sturdy as well. It’s nickel plated, though I’m not sure of the metal used below the plating. The roller should minimize wear on the belt over time (if that was an issue with a belt of this thickness). I didn’t love that the prong scratches the finish on the back side of the belt, but thankfully these marks won’t ever be visible. I’m sure some conditioner could remove the marks if desired, though the finish on the belt means conditioner shouldn’t be necessary otherwise.

The chestnut color I have here is great for just about any occasion, if the 1.5” width will fit through your belt loops. I like cognac/chestnut from a fashion perspective since it’s very versatile and works with most colors. The thickness makes for a very tanky look, and some nice jeans are probably the best match for the Classic Leather Belt. The look can also be changed by changing out the buckle if desired, compliments of the Chicago screws.

If you’re on the fence about a size, it’s might be best to favor rounding up than down. I choose the same length as an existing belt I own, but I think the thickness of the Classic Leather Belt made the fit a bit tighter.

The Classic Leather Belt is a simple leather belt, but it fulfills a need many products do not: doing its job well and doing it for a very long time. The founders of Gray Bull Leather Co. began the company with that goal in mind, and this belt fulfills it. There’s nothing fancy or excessive here, just a great belt at a great price. So far mine has endured a couple months of heavy use and shows no signs of quitting, and I recommend the Classic Leather Belt as a Buy It For Life product.

September 12, 2016December 19, 2017

Hawkmoth Leather Co Propeller Review – £225

“It evokes to an age of fedora wearing explorers in far away places, where they would arrive at their destinations by a plane that is powered by a propeller.”

Inspired by historical figures such as Ernest Hemingway and Lawrence of Arabia, and “appealing to the Indiana Jones in all of us,” the Hawkmoth Propeller is a one-of-a-kind belt, a beautiful work of art skillfully crafted with fine and rare materials.

ABOUT Hawkmoth Leather Co.

It’s been my great pleasure to get to know Hawkmoth Leather Co’s Tom Sanderson over the last few months. Located in the heart of Sussex, England, Tom designs and handcrafts Hawkmoth’s belts himself between working on costumes for major movie productions.

Tom has a simple goal for Hawkmoth: using traditional techniques of leatherworking, make the most high quality leather products he possibly can out of the best materials he can get his hands on. With one of the most creative minds I’ve met, Tom draws inspiration from Al Stohlman, one of leathercraft’s pioneers, as well as “a mixture of British and European military leather work, with a sprinkling of the American wild west and a touch of the Indian subcontinent.”

Each Hawkmoth belt comes packaged in a handmade canvas case with a leather handle, stamped with the Hawkmoth Death’s Head insignia. This same insignia adorns one end of the belt, alongside two other signature stamps–the letter R representing the year 2016, and two windmills to represent Sussex.

CONSTRUCTION

We speak often of the rarity of vegetable tanned leather here at BestLeather, but far rarer still is the type of leather used for The Propeller: oak bark tan. Vegetable tanning is a lengthy process that takes around two months, but this pales in comparison to the year-long tanning oak bark leather goes through. It’s said to exceed veg-tan leather for durability and longevity, and only a small handful of long-running tanneries still produce this rare leather.

Once the leather arrives at Hawkmoth, The Propeller is entirely made by hand. It’s saddle stitched with thick linen thread that is waxed in-house using local organic bees wax. Large rivets are used for reinforcement. Dying is also done by hand over the course of a few days. The Propeller is overall expertly built. Edging, burnishing, stitching etc. is all well done and shows the work of a very skilled artisan. As with any handmade item, minor imperfections can be found but they’re strictly cosmetic and add to the individual personality of the belt.

I noticed that, instead of folding the leather over the buckle and sewing it shut, Hawkmoth uses a small separate piece of leather folded over and sewn such that it’s pinching down on the end of the strap. I thought this was an interesting choice, and inquired Tom about it. This is an enhancement in several ways: it allows the buckle to lie even within the thickness of the belt, ensures the buckle doesn’t rub on threads, and prevents the threads from being positioned in a high-strain position. This is a very impressive level of attention to construction detail.

FUNCTION

The Propeller is a ranger style belt with a two-piece buckle, combined into an asymmetrical design you’re unlikely to see elsewhere. While ranger belts aren’t too uncommon, a two-piece buckle is a harder find today. Reminiscent of Civil War memorabilia, this bronze buckle is believed to be an old/new stock item from WWII (though, despite efforts by Hawkmoth and myself, we’ve yet to find documentation of its origins. Any leads would be appreciated!). Hawkmoth has only managed to procure a handful, furthering the rare and unique aspect of the Propeller.

The two piece buckle is used by slipping the small end horizontally through the large end and then rotating it flat into place. It takes getting used to, but eventually becomes as natural as coupling a typical pronged belt. A smaller standard buckle sits to one side of the main buckle to give a short range of length adjustment.

Ranger belts are intended to be wide, and The Propeller is no exception. At 1.75” (4.5cm), it’s definitely intended for wide belt loops. The tapered points of leather will sometimes catch onto smaller belt loops as well, so this belt is best worn with a thick pair of jeans (as much as I wanted to wear it with…well, everything).

The Propeller is likely quite different than the belt you’re wearing now, but it’s easy to get used to and will serve its wearer well.

AESTHETIC

Normally, I get home, roll up my belt, and place it on a somewhat high shelf in my closet out of the way. When that belt is the Propeller I instead link the buckle and place it prominently on my desk in my room–similar to the painting hanging on my wall.

The Propeller is a work of art. The US Navy two-piece buckle catches a lot of attention, but it wouldn’t have that power without the gorgeous background of hand-dyed, deep cognac oak bark leather. It carries the spirit of its inspirations well, exuding a vintage air of military and historical literature, with perhaps just a hint of steampunk. To say it plainly, wearing the Propeller makes me feel incredibly cool. Based on the number of compliments it draws, I’d say I’m not the only one.

It is a bit of a ‘loud’ look for some. We’re used to very simple belts. The Propeller poetically ascends above this standard for those who can appreciate it.

Conclusion

I absolutely love this belt. At the basic level it’s well constructed with top-of-the-line materials, and is a highly functional belt. Beyond that, it’s a one-of-a-kind work of art, exuding numerous inspiring cultures and sure to leave you feeling great just from the experience of wearing it.

The price makes it clear that the Propeller is for someone looking for much more than just a way to keep their pants up, but rather someone who’s looking for a rare, heirloom belt that’s the product of a highly artistic mind. I see this being the kind of item given as an indulgent graduation gift or passed from generation to generation.

The Hawkmoth Propeller is, unquestionably, a Buy It For Life product that I couldn’t recommend more. It’s only one of numerous impressive designs Hawkmoth boasts, so swing by their online shop to see for yourself.

August 10, 2016December 19, 2017

Grant Stone Longwing Crimson Review – $335

The wingtip brogue is a staple in many men’s wardrobes today, but the longwing brogue is still making it’s way back from the 1970s. We’ve had the chance to try out this style in Grant Stone’s Longwing Crimson. These standout shoes feature a Goodyear welt over a thick, stacked leather sole, a pull-up leather upper, and have a great vintage sense of style.

ABOUT GRANT STONE

Grant Stone‘s small team is directed by Wyatt Gilmore, a third generation member of his family to be in the shoe business. Wyatt has spent years living near their factory in Xiamen, China, drawing from the decades of experience in his family as well as their factory to design their shoes. Grant Stone seeks to add their own touch to classic styles, making shoes that would be hard to find copies of elsewhere, with well fitting designs and high end materials.

Grant Stone’s leathers are sourced from the USA and Europe. Each pair of shoes is shipped with a pair of single-shoe dustbags.