At BestLeather, we see a great deal of wallets. Do we tire of seeing and using them? Well…no. It’s amazing how many variations of a wallet or billfold there are out there. They range from simple to exotic and everything in-between. I’m still on a quest to find “the one” that truly fits the bill for me. And, I’m getting close…really close. As I’ve mentioned in other reviews, I like simplicity. The Tagsmith Leather Bifold Wallet is an excellent example of simplicity in the crowded wallet market. Continue reading “Tagsmith Leather Bifold Wallet – $54”
Nicks Boots 6″ Robert Boot Review – $439
The Pacific Northwest is a gorgeous place to live, work, and play. But, it’s a tough place too. Harsh weather, tough terrain, and rigorous duties require goods that can match those challenges. A good pair of boots is a must if you are going to hang out in this region of the world for any length of time. Continue reading “Nicks Boots 6″ Robert Boot Review – $439”
Christensen Bags No. 7 Platypus Satchel Review – $225
The lowly platypus just doesn’t get enough recognition in this world with the likes of lions, tigers and bears roaming around. That’s a shame because the platypus is a fascinating creature. Endemic to Australia, including Tasmania, the platypus is one of just a few venomous mammals with seemingly more in common with a Tasmanian devil than with a duck. The days of the platypus staying in obscurity are soon to vanish though with the Platypus series of satchels by Christensen Bags. A waxed canvas and leather goods company based in San Francisco, California, Christensen Bags makes high quality goods with a focus on minimalism inspired by Danish mid-century Modern aesthetics. BestLeather was able to review one of their minimalistic satchels, the No. 7 Platypus.
MATERIALS
A bag is only as good as what it is made out of. Christensen understands this and chooses to work with some of the best materials available. They source their leather exclusively from the Horween Tannery in Chicago, which was established in 1905. They obtain their waxed canvas from Martin Dyeing and Finishing, which was established in 1838. The No. 7 is a combination waxed canvas and leather bag. The outside of the bag is made from a natural, khaki colored waxed canvas, while the interior is a black waxed canvas. The black interior is a smart move as the interior of a bag tends to attract marks, smudges, and stains. If you are unfamiliar with waxed canvas, it is smooth material where the wax is not readily apparent. The wax is impregnated into the canvas as a means of waterproofing the material.
It has become a popular material to use in the higher end bag market, where cost is a factor. Combining waxed canvas with high quality leather produces a super durable and classy combination. If you’re not into that combination and prefer all leather bags, then Christensen has you covered and you can get their No. 3, which is an all Dublin leather satchel with the same design.
I have to say that the leather used for the flap of this bag is impressive. Named Dublin by the Horween Tannery, character comes built into this leather. The leather has a similar pull up affect as Horween’s famous Chromexcel leather, but is all vegetable tanned, which means it will develop a beautiful patina with use. The leather is also thicker than most high quality leather bags and definitely thicker than boot leather. The underside of the leather is unlined, which I think is beautiful, and is also very smooth, an indication of a high quality leather. The same Dublin leather is used for accents as well, namely for the D-rings on either end of the bag, for the flap closure on the front of the bag and for the interior pen holders.
METAL AND THREAD
Keeping to their minimalist vision, there is not a lot of hardware on the bag. The D-rings and the lobster clasps on the strap are all solid brass with an antique finish, which marries well with the look of the bag. The materials are all sewn together with strong and durable no 128 bonded nylon. The perimeter of the flap of the bag is sewn with a dark brown nylon. Technically the thread is not necessary as it doesn’t combine two materials and is purely aesthetic. Personally, I like the look and think that provides a nice finish, but some might prefer the stitch less look.
DESIGN
Minimalism is an important focus for Christensen and the No. 7 is no exception. The bag is an appropriate size for a satchel, but is not a large bag. Measuring 14.5″ wide by 10″ high, by 2 1/4″ deep, the bag is meant to carry the essentials and not much else. Large enough for a 13″ laptop (my 13″ Macbook Air with case fit snugly), a notebook cover, an IPad or other electronic device, and some accessories, and you’re good to go.
The most noticeable feature of the bag is the obvious play off of our lowly platypus with a wide 3″ “bill” that inserts snugly into the front loop and is secured with a single button rivet. The look is surprisingly reminiscent of a platypus, but is still classy and sophisticated. There is something satisfying with not having to tangle with any buckles and clasps when opening or closing your bag. Unbuttoning and sliding out the flap is quick and easy and refastening it is the same. In using this bag, I never felt that the contents of the bag were unsafe with this closure. The bill fits snugly into the loop and stays there. The size of the bag helps with this as you’re not lugging around a significant amount of goods.
Neil, co-founder of Christensen Bags, takes prototyping very seriously. He tests and tweaks their designs, and uses the prototype until he feels it is perfect. He developed their No. 1 satchel to shuttle his necessities from work to home and wanted to sell something that he would love and use. He has currently been carrying a wallet prototype around for the past year, making notes along the way to ensure the perfect product. This fastidious focus on design is apparent in the goods they sell.
BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION
The No 7. platypus satchel from Christensen Bags is minimalists dream. It is lightweight, has one main compartment to carry your essentials and opens and closes with ease. It is made from high quality materials made by companies with long histories, and is designed to carry your goods in style. The price of $225 is right for a smaller bag made of premium materials and is designed well. Perhaps best of all, No Platyplus’ were harmed in the making of this review, or the making of this bag. We recommend the No. 7 from Christensen.
Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197
Here’s a review of a beautiful piece that caught my eye from a designer and leatherworker on etsy from Australia. Melanie Hudson of Matoirs Leather Products has been selling handmade and hand tooled leather bags for about 2 years now but working with leather since she was very young, assisting her father binding leather books. Her etsy shop features vintage style handbags that are hand tooled or hand painted with detail and rich beautiful colors. Continue reading “Matoirs Vintage Style Tooled Women’s Bag Review – $197”
Horween Leather Company and Thrux Lawrence All Leather Thrux Pack – $990
In the not too distant past, BestLeather received a hide of the Horween Leather Company’s latigo leather, in a chestnut color. Thinking of one of the best places we could take the hide to and develop it into something beautiful and functional, we immediately thought of Thrux Lawrence of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. We asked them to craft something fine from the leather so that we can showcase Horween’s latigo leather and something fine they indeed crafted.
Tanden Launder, the proprietor of Thrux Lawrence, took the project a step further and crafted something new for them, an ALL leather Thrux Pack. They craft many of their thick 24 ounce canvas and latigo leather Thrux Packs, which are beautiful and extremely rugged, and which they sell online and at their brick and mortar store in Coeur d’Alene, but they had yet to make an all leather Thrux Pack. This was a serendipitous opportunity to try something a little new.
HORWEEN LEATHER COMPANY
The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween. The company has remained in family hands (currently run by Arnold “Skip” Horween, Isadore’s great grandson) ever since and is now the last remaining tannery in the Chicago area, and one of the few remaining industrial tanneries in the United States. Horween’s first product was shell cordovan for razor strops.
After the invention of the electric razor and the subsequent reduced demand for razor strops, Horween recognized the need to diversify it’s leather portfolio. The result has been some fine leathers, and some tanning recipes that are still being used today, decades later (think Chromexcel).
Avid readers of BestLeather will be very familiar with the name Horween. The simple reason for this is that many, many of the leather companies whose products we review use Horween’s leather. And the simple reason for that is because Horween produces some of the finest (if not the finest) leather for consumer goods. Their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan probably get the most attention in the realm of high quality leather goods, but one line of leather that needs a little more recognition is their Latigo line of leather.
ABOUT THE LATIGO LINE OF LEATHER
Tanden with Thrux swears by latigo leather. In my conversations with him he has repeated that latigo is the time tested leather, and of course he is correct. Latigo is a form or method of tanning leather. Traditionally tanned from cowhide, latigo is normally combination tanned, usually chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned, which is how Horween still does it. Latigo has traditionally been used for horse tack, namely for saddle cinches. The reason for this is the durable nature of latigo. It is tanned in a way that makes it more stiff than many of your luxury leathers, with less stretch, and as a result is more durable. This is the main reason that Thrux Lawrence prefers latigo, its durable nature.
Another benefit in using Horween’s latigo is that their leather is struck through. This means that after tanning the hide, the hide is then dyed with the color of choice, and they allow the dye to penetrate through the entire hide. Many tanneries simply dye the exterior of the leather, but when cut into you see either a blue strip running through the middle of the leather (in the case of chrome tanned leathers), or a light brown strip (in the case of vegetable tanned leather). For the purposes of luxury consumers goods, this is unacceptable. Striking the leather through is more time consuming and expensive, but Horween doesn’t take any shortcuts and that shows in their leather.
ABOUT THE ALL LEATHER THRUX PACK
Like all of Thrux Lawrence goods, the All Leather Thrux Pack is ridiculously tough and overbuilt, which is just the way I like it. This particular Thrux Pack uses two different colors and weights of latigo. Horween provided BestLeather a chestnut hide that is four to five ounces in weight. This hide was used in the construction of the main body of the Thrux Pack, as well as the internal computer sleeve and pocket. Thrux used a darker brown latigo leather from Horween that is eight to nine ounces in weight for the shoulder straps, the top flap and straps, the handle, and their signature bucket tray, or bottom of the bag. Eight to nine ounce latigo leather in an of itself is thick and extremely rugged. Thrux takes that thick leather and doubles it for the shoulder straps and handle. The result is one hardy backpack that is bound to last generations.
To combine all of this beautiful and sturdy leather, Thrux uses very durable bonded nylon thread. For this Thrux Pack, they used a white thread which contrasts nicely against the chestnut colored leather. Note the double stitching for increased durability on the shoulder straps as well as the bottom tray, another indication of attention to detail. The hardware used for the buckles is solid brass. The zippers used are oversized, solid brass, YKK Zippers. And the rivets used to further secure the leather are solid brass rivets and burrs.
I stated in a previous article written for BestLeather that solid copper rivets are the toughest rivets you can use for leather, but I was mistaken. As brass is a combination of tin and copper, which results in a much harder metal than copper, solid brass rivets are much tougher than copper. The use of solid brass over solid copper rivets is indicative of Thrux Lawrence’s approach to leather crafting. They use only the very best materials in the making of their bags and goods.
With a lot of thick, sturdy latigo leather, the All Leather Thrux Pack is going to take some time to break in and be comfortable. On the flip side, after you use the bag for work or travel, you know your kid will be able to use it for college and work, and their kid will be able to do the same. The bag is that well made and the Horween leather that durable.
BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION
The All Leather Thrux Pack from Thrux Lawrence is a ridiculously well made bag. The choice of using latigo leather from the Horween Leather Company is the best choice. Latigo is time tested, is very durable, and Horween’s latigo is struck through and beautiful. $990 may seem like a lot to put down for a backpack and it is. But this really is not any ordinary bag. The attention to detail, the use of the best possible and most durable materials, and the quality craftsmanship means this is an investment in an heirloom quality good. The use of Horween’s latigo means you’re also getting the best quality leather that is used by the best leather companies in the United States and beyond. BestLeather definitely recommends the All Leather Thrux Pack and could not speak more highly of Horween’s latigo leather.
Vicenzo Titan X Leather Briefcase Review – $229
Vicenzo Leather is a leather company based out of Houston, Texas. Desgned in the USA and manufactured in China, Vicenzo fuses together European design with western style, craftsmanship and materials. Besides briefcases, Vicenzo makes messenger bags, wallets, duffel bags, and other handbags.
The Titan X is the newest addition to Vincenzo’s line and is an updated version of their previous Titan briefcase. The Titan X features more pockets and compartments to help with convenience and organization.
Construction
The Titan X briefcase is constructed of full grain pebbled leather with a durable denim interior, brass buckles, snaps, leather reinforced seams on the inside, nylon thread stitching and zippers. The bag measures 16.5″ length x 12″ high and 5″ deep. Empty the bag weighs about five pounds.
The front of the bag features 6 compartments – two with magnetic snap closures and four with zipper closures. There are two main inner compartments with zipper closures. The front most compartment has a space for a laptop or portfolio with a velcro secured leather tab to secure. The back compartment is one large space with no dividers but has two pockets on the inner side for small items as well as two pen slots. Against the outer wall is another zippered pocket. The back exterior of the bag has one zippered pocket. To carry the bag, there are two snap removable handles on either side as well as one non removable handle directly on top of the bag. Lastly, The bag has a removable and adjustable shoulder strap made of nylon and leather with a leather shoulder pad.
Function
As noted above, this is a larger sized briefcase with a lot of handy pockets, pouches and other features. Any business traveler will agree that all the pockets are handy to keep things such as travel documents, small electronics and chargers, pens, small notebooks, and various other tools. The main compartments can hold several books, laptops, electronics and other tools. The bag can also hold some spare clothes making this a suitable overnight bag as well.
Aesthetic
My initial reaction to receiving the bag was that the color was not at all matching the color on the website. The website has the bag in a lighter and more weathered brown leather where the bag is actually a very solid dark brown. Also the pebble grain on the bag was not noted on the website. I felt slightly disappointed at first and felt the bag and company lacked quality. The bag had an off smell not like that of other nostalgic brand new leather smells I know and love. The denim cloth interior was also not noted on the website.
I’m not a huge fan of the fake snap buckles on the front two pockets but one might see the as a convenience if they need to get in and out of the pockets quickly. A few times already the snap has opened by rubbing up against something or catching on another object.
A great thing about this bag is that it is a lightweight bag (empty). I was able to have two small laptops, a full-sized portfolio, and a spare change of clothes for an overnight business trip without putting too much of a strain on my shoulder.
What seems as a design flaw is the overall imbalance of the bag with the use of the shoulder strap. The d-rings for the detachable shoulder strap are too low causing the bag to be top heavy when carried with the shoulder strap and in result, is very uncomfortable and awkward.
Another complaint that I have is that the shoulder strap seems a little flimsy and is already showing signs of fray around the edges. Having had several nylon shoulder strap bags in the past, I can say I am not a fan of them fraying and falling apart more quickly than most. Also the shoulder pad is a mere thin piece of leather with no real padding or comfort features. This may not be deal breaker for some since the overall lightweight yet spacious and pocket loaded nature of the bag is great. I would see myself buying a stronger and more durable strap to change over down the road.
BestLeather Conclusion
I would not have purchased this bag in person at the price listed. To me it seems a tad high. The pictures and lack of description on the website was misleading to me. However it is a convenient, spacious, and lightweight bag that may suit the needs to a busy traveler. It is also, as previously mentioned, a nice size bag to carry clothes in for an overnight or light weekend trip. Check it out –here-.
Pinegrove Leather Guitar Player’s Wallet – $67
Can you imagine life without music? What a boring, dull place it would be. Having the ability to create music by playing an instrument is even better. It’s fun to get together with friends and spend time creating and enjoying music. It can also get messy. You can unfortunately lose accessories quickly and easily. As a guitar player, I’ve lost countless picks, string winders, and even a few capos over the years. One of the reasons for this is simply because I never have a place to keep those items stored and organized.
I’ve finally found the solution to my woes…courtesy of another musician. Rod Boyes of Pinegrove Leather is doing just that – creating unique, useful pieces for musicians. Best of all, his creative medium is leather…really nice leather.
About Pinegrove Leather Company
Pinegrove Leather, run by Rod Boyes and Lou Comerford Boyes, has a simple, straightforward mission – to bring people beautiful things to enjoy. Pinegrove is based in the beautiful Pennine town of Hebden Bridge, England, well known for its art and creativity. The company name comes from “The Pine Grove Blues”, a famous Cajun song that Rod used to play when with the Cajun Aces dance band from 1993 to 2003.
Construction
Pinegrove selects each piece of the leather it uses in person from a UK warehouse. According to Rod, “we like leather that’s real and natural, though we sometimes offer brighter colors too. Some of the leather we use, like the “distressed” style, has been given its effect artificially, but otherwise it’s the real thing, made to last a lifetime. We do not use any wild animal skins or any products derived from non-sustainable sources.” Pinegrove is proud to acknowledge that they design and make everything right in the north of England.
The leather used on the Pinegrove Leather Guitar Player’s Wallet has a great, waxy feel to it – sturdy, yet nice, soft, and pliable. The heavy duty stitching is uniform. The pick slots, pockets, straight seams, finished edges all speak to the attention to detail and time invested in creating this piece.
Function
The Pinegrove Leather Guitar Player’s Wallet is a cleverly designed, well thought out piece. You can tell that it was created and made by someone who has spent a lot of time with guitar in hand. The pick section of the pouch will hold up to 15 picks (3 per slot). The design lends itself to a “grab and play” method for selecting a pick. It also features two full size pockets on each side, each of which will easily hold a set of strings and a string winder or a capo. In fact, you can carry a set of strings, a string winder, and a capo all at the same time. The storage capacity of this wallet is impressive. You’re certainly not limited to just carrying guitar accessories in this wallet too. It will easily handle all of your cash and cards too. And, it will easily slip into your jeans pocket or a coat pocket.
Aesthetic
Pinegrove Leather describes their style as “modern vintage with art nouveau, western, and 1950s jukebox influences mixed in as well. The Guitar Wallet I received is a very attractive piece featuring dark and light brown leather. The pick shaped inlay on the front of the wallet creates an attractive visual focal point on the front. As mentioned, the leather feels nice and will age really well. It’s certainly tough, sturdy, and well made – but still retains softness to it.
It’s easy to stick in your pocket and go or stick it in your guitar case. Honestly, it’s a great choice because it consolidates so many pieces that are usually scattered about in your guitar case, pockets, or left behind from wherever you played last.
Conclusion
The Pinegrove Leather Guitar Player’s Wallet is a great addition to anyone’s guitar gig bag or case. It’s a problem solver and organizer. At £39 (roughly $67 US), it’s a perfectly acceptable price point given the fact that it’s expertly crafted, features high quality components, and is backed by a lifetime guarantee. As a bonus, you’ll get a really nice, sturdy leather keyring too (thanks Rod). If you’re looking for a way to keep your guitar gear organized in a manner that looks really good (and will get noticed by your buddies) then we encourage you to check out the Pinegrove Leather Guitar Player’s Wallet. The guys at Pinegrove Leather certainly are not limited to creating leather pieces for guitar players. If you visit their site you’ll find pieces specifically designed for harmonica players, drummers, whistle players, and some excellent looking pieces created for travel (along with a really nice looking messenger style bag).
Pinegrove Leather Vintage Style One Inch Guitar Strap – $77
A strap is a strap is a strap…right? Wrong, wrong, wrong. There are so many variations of guitar straps out there and they’re made from everything you can think of too. So, how do you wade through all of the boring, well-intentioned but poorly constructed straps and find a superior strap? You find one that’s built by musicians for musicians.
About Pinegrove Leather
Pinegrove Leather, run by Rod Boyes and his wife, Lou Comerford Boyes, has a simple, straightforward mission – to bring people beautiful things to enjoy. Pinegrove is based in the beautiful Pennine town of Hebden Bridge, England, well known for its art and creativity. The company name comes from “The Pine Grove Blues”, a famous Cajun song that Rod used to play when with the Cajun Aces dance band from 1993 to 2003.
In putting together this review and our other review for Pinegrove Leather’s Guitar Player Wallet, I was able to dialogue a little with Rod about his company and how they operate. So, you’ll find a little question/answer dialogue in a few sections within this review.
Tim at BL: What sets Pinegrove Leather apart? What makes you unique?
Rod: Pinegrove’s focus on music accessories is due to my own interest in making music. I am a singer, guitar player, and harmonica player. Over the past 25 years I have played bluegrass, Cajun, and Western swing in a variety of bands. My current band is called The 309s – named after the last song Johnny Cash ever wrote & recorded. We play a wide range of American music from the 1920s to the 50s, including Western swing, jump blues, honky-tonk, and some rockabilly too. We have recorded two albums, both of which can be heard at our website, www.the309s.com. The history of Pinegrove goes straight back to making music. I had been playing harmonica for a year or so and had built up a collection of blues harps, but had nowhere to put them. I raised the idea with my other half, Lou (an expert seamstress), who found some flimsy scrap leather in the bottom of her sewing box and made me the original roll-up case. Admiring comments from friends at sessions sparked the idea for Pinegrove, and here we are today with a complete range of harmonica cases. That old one has been retired for a while now, but I still use it for storing a set of hole punches in the workshop.
Construction
I received the Pinegrove Leather Vintage Style One Inch Guitar Strap from Rod in light tan leather. This is one fine guitar strap. The “Vintage” name for it is well deserved as this would be an excellent strap to don on an old Rickenbacker, Gretsch, or Gibson hollow-body. I, however, have none of those, so it went on my trusty ol’ BC Rich acoustic (which I hear is becoming somewhat of a collector’s item itself).
The strap and shoulder pad are substantial pieces. And the hardware is heavy duty as well. I can’t imagine what it would take to wear out this strap. I do know this…whatever it would take would certainly jeopardize the integrity of your guitar. So, my advice is just take it easy and let this strap last forever while keeping your guitar in good shape.
Tim from BL: What type(s) of leather you use? Where do you get your leather?
Rod: As I like to be creative with different textures of leather, I use quite a wide range. These are mostly sourced from A&A Crack in Northampton, the traditional home of British shoemaking. Most of the leather is around 5oz (2mm), although our guitar straps use 9oz (4mm) buffalo hide. I use a mixture of top grain, full grain (for a natural grain effect) and nubuck cowhide. I sometimes use full grain pigskin for linings. Recently we have used capeskin glove leather from Pittards for making hatbands for an upmarket milliner. I buy all the leather myself and spend a long time checking it for quality in strength and finish.
Tim at BL: How you perform your construction (machine, all by hand, combination of both)?
Rod: Most pieces are pressed out for perfect results every time. Our cutting “knives” are custom made to our designs and totally unique. Some hand cutting and punching is still required. Stitching is performed using a specialized walking-foot machine, which can take the heavy thread we use. Handling the machine requires a lot of skill as there is no automated control and mistakes cannot be covered up. One you’ve made a hole in a piece of leather it stays there! When you become a leather crafter you become obsessed about neat stitching, way beyond what most people would ever notice! Some pieces, such as our single harmonica pouch, are wet molded by hand. Edges are burnished by hand.
Tim at BL: Tell me about the type of thread and other components you use.
Rod: I use the best quality, synthetic, decay-proof thread from Coates. Our buckles and studs are solid brass, mostly English made by Abbey England’s foundry in Walsall.
Function
The strap, due to its thickness, is a little stiff at first. However, once it’s in place on your strap pegs, it’s perfectly secure. As I took the strap on/off over the course of a few weeks, it has softened up and become much more pliable.
The 2.5” wide shoulder pad is fantastic and very comfortable. Adjusting the strap is something that takes a little time given the nature of the two Chicago style screws/posts that connect the strap together on each end. The screws are tucked away behind leather belt loop sheaths to protect the finish of your guitar, which is a great feature. The strap can be adjusted from 41” to 55” in length.
Aesthetic
The thick buffalo leather, along with the expertly sewn lines of the heavy gauge thread combine to create a very attractive strap. It also has a nice feel to it – while just carrying it and when wearing it. I’ve had multiple comments about this strap. Pinegrove also makes this strap in black and dark brown.
Conclusion
The Pinegrove Leather Vintage Style One Inch Guitar Strap is a great choice. It’s ingeniously designed and expertly crafted in a way that will accentuate your guitar and keep it positioned just where you want and need it while playing. And it will last forever. If for some reason it doesn’t last forever, it has a lifetime guarantee behind it from Pinegrove Leather. At £44.50 ($77 US), it’s a great deal. And, as with all Pinegrove products, you will receive a handy guitar pick keyring too.
Oak Street Bootmakers Black Dainite Trench Boots – $462
The trench boot, sometimes known as the “Pershing boot,” was a combat boot used in World War I by British, American, French, and Belgian forces, made for the cold mud of trench warfare.
The 1917 Trench Boot was an adaptation of the boots American manufacturers were selling to the French and Belgian armies at the beginning of World War I. In American service, it replaced the Russet Marching Shoe. The boot was made of tanned cowhide with a half middle sole covered by a full sole, studded with five rows of hobnails. Iron plates were fixed to the heel. It was a great improvement, however it lacked waterproofing, leading to trench foot.
In January 1918 the Chief Quartermaster for the U.S. Army met with a board of officers at American Expeditionary Force Headquarters to make recommendations in order to improve the footwear of soldiers. The findings of the board were sent to General John Pershing, who approved the proposed changes. Shortly following, the improved 1918 Trench Boot, also called the “Pershing Boot,” was first issued to personnel. It used heavier leather in its construction, and had several minor changes from the 1917 Boot, including a thicker sole and improved waterproofing. – Adapted from Wikipedia
About Oak Street Bootmakers
George Vlagos, founder and designer for Oak Street Bootmakers is the son of a cobbler. By an early age he was apprenticing in his own father’s shop where he learned the craft of shoemaking. Now George passionately seeks to preserve the heritage of fine shoemaking through exquisitely designed, expertly crafted shoes. Their website mantras are “Handcrafted in America – Designed for Longevity”.
Construction
Oak Street makes a wide variety of attractive shoes and boots. In my initial discussions with George, we decided to review the Oak Street Bootmakers Black Dainite Trench Boot. This is one well-built boot! It features:
- Black Horween Chromexcel Leather
- True Goodyear Welt Construction
- Dainite Soles
- Stacked Leather Heel with Dainite Toplift
- Calfskin Vamp Lining
- Full Leather Laces
These boots are fully re-craftable and they’re made in the USA. If you’re a regular here at BestLeather, you already know our thoughts on Horween’s Chromexcel Leather. It’s highly durable and an excellent choice for a boot given its high sheen. This is the first pair of boots or shoes that I’ve worn with Dainite soles or heels.
Here’s a little snippet from Oak Street’s website about their construction: “Built on our Elston Last – a unique last providing exceptional fit and shape. Developed to embody the character of Chicago, the Elston last is engineered specifically for the trench boot providing the comfort yet durability demanded of the every-man.”
Function
There is a bit of a break-in period with a boot constructed with a Goodyear welt and so much leather. So, be sure to plan on wearing these for short periods of time the first few outings you don them on your feet. After a few dates with my wife, church visits, and excursions to client offices, I had these boots right where I wanted them. Now, I can wear them all day without issue. In fact, they are now very, very comfortable.
Another thing to note about the Trench Boot – they have eyelets all the way up. This means that you will need to lace and unlace them each time you take them on or off. It’s a little time consuming, so just plan ahead. I also found that since these boots do not have a heel loop, it’s easier to slip them on using a shoehorn.
Oak Street’s boots seem to run true to size as the fit was spot on for me (I generally wear a size 12 and the boots I received in size 12 fit perfectly). The sole and heel are comfortable and provide excellent traction. After reading a little about the Dainite sole and heel, I took a bit more notice of the fact that they truly don’t pick up dirt or rocks, yet still maintain good contact feel, and are non-marking.
Aesthetic
Have you seen the pictures? (Oh that’s right, you only come here to read the words.) These boots are stunning and look fabulous. This is going to sound like I’m describing a sports car, but here goes: The Oak Street Bootmakers Black Dainite Trench Boots feature clean lines, smooth finishes, carefully crafted curves, and an excellent combination of materials.
The contrast of the deep black Horween leather and brown color of the sole’s components combine to create a very appealing look. Someone inevitably comments on these boots every time I wear them. Every. Single. Time. I’m sure that the other versions of their Trench Boot will garner the same attention. However, I’m partial to this black pair – I think they’re fantastic.
Conclusion
The Oak Street Bootmakers Black Dainite Trench Boots should be considered a Buy It For Life item. Initially that $462 price may sting a bit, but only a bit….because you’ll quickly find that these handcrafted boots are well worth every penny and will truly give you a lifetime of comfort and style. The Oak Street Bootmakers Black Dainite Trench Boot pays tribute to a time tested design that has been around for almost a century and is sure to remain popular for many decades to come.
Saddleback Leather Bucket Backpack & Umuragi Legacy Bag Giveaway – Ends Oct 30th
****The first winner has been selected. Congratulations to Jonathan P! Jonathan P has chosen to receive the Bucket Backpack. Our second winner, Nancy B. will receive the Umuragi Legacy Bag. Congratulations to both of our winners! Thanks to everyone who entered! And, stop by the site frequently…we have another giveaway coming soon!****
Saddleback Leather is partnering with BestLeather to give away not just one, but two of their new products – a Classic Bucket Backpack and an Umuragi Legacy Bag. Both of these are amazing pieces and are sure to be best sellers. And, with all of Saddleback’s expertly crafted leather products, they will most likely outlast you – so, be sure to plan ahead as to who will inherit your new Saddleback gear.
We will be choosing two winners – whoever is chosen first will get their pick of which piece they want to receive while the second winner will receive the other piece by default.
Please continue to read below and learn more about these great pieces being offered by Saddleback Leather for you to win. They are also offering 35% off on select items.
Here’s the scoop on the Classic Bucket Backpack:
- Simple and strong design for our lightest backpack yet
- Leather drawstring closure for a quick in and out
- Back panel reinforced with pigskin lining for added strength where needed
- Removable top handle can be used for over arm carry
- Interior unlined tablet pocket & lined cell phone pocket keeps things organized
- Drawstring color may not match your Bucket Backpack color
- No breakable parts, e.g. zippers, snaps, buttons, etc.
- Because of natural oils shade of leather may vary
- Dimensions (approximate size):
- Exterior: 16″H x 10 ½”W x 8 ½”D
- Interior: 15″ H x 10″ W x 8″ D
- Empty Weight: 3.4 pounds
- Is available in Carbon, Chestnut, Dark Coffee Brown, and Tobacco
The Umuragi Legacy Bag
This is a purse designed by Suzette Munson. Instead of carrying the Saddleback Leather brand, it proudly displays the Love41 moniker. You may not be fully aware of Love41 and its commendable mission. So, we encourage you to visit the Love41 website and learn about how this company is making a positive impact in Rwanda, Africa and beyond. Here are the details about the Umuragi Legacy Bag:
- Love 41’s most durable purse
- Unique no-stitching, riveted construction
- Umuragi means legacy in Kinyarwandan (the language of Rwanda), befitting a bag you can hand down to future generations
- Two small interior pockets for keys, cell phone, and other accessories
- Fully adjustable shoulder strap and turn-lock closure
- Antiqued brass hardware
- Made with thick, vegetable tanned full grain leather
- Love 41 products are covered by a 41 year warranty
- A portion of the proceeds from this item will be donated to Africa New Life Ministries
- Dimensions (approximate size):
- Adjustable strap length: 37 ¼” – 52 ¾”
- Exterior: 13“ W x 7 ½“ H x 4” D
- Interior: 12 ½“ W x 7 ½“ H x 2 ¼” D
- Empty Weight: 3 pounds
- Is available in two colors: Carbon Black or Tobacco Brown
With Holiday shopping already beginning to ramp up, this contest’s timing is excellent. The contest will run for 21 days, starting today, October 9, 2014 and ending on Thursday, October 30, 2014.
Please be sure to follow all of the steps to ensure that you are entered to win. Enjoy! We look forward to seeing who wins. And, please be sure to comment below and let us know what your plans are for these products should you win one.
What do you think?
15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st
It’s sale time at AE and they are clearing the goodies out. Everything is between 15% and 35% off, but you already knew that. You can find good deals on the Allen Edmonds website and in their retail locations in the midwest. There are currently 49 shoes on sale.
If these sale prices are still too steep for your pocketbook than I recommend checking out this post on how to buy high end shoes at a larger discount on Ebay. My best purchase was a $650 pair of Alden Shell Cordovan shoes for $60. I will wear them today and for many days to come. Continue reading “15% to 35% Off Yearly Sale At Allen Edmonds – Oct 6th to the 21st”
Mr. Lentz Traditional Minimal Leather Wallet Review – $64
“Under Pressure” – The classic Queen song should be the theme song for all wallets. Think about it. A wallet spends 98% of its time in your back pocket, squished by your butt…under pressure. So, with all of that pressure its under, you better be sure it’s a well built wallet. Let me introduce you to the Minimal Leather Wallet from Mr. Lentz. Continue reading “Mr. Lentz Traditional Minimal Leather Wallet Review – $64”
Paul Evans Grey Belt Review – $149
Over the past few years, the online market for dress shoes has proliferated, but few companies produce anything that can stand toe-to-toe with the likes of Alden, Allen Edmonds, and Crockett and Jones. Paul Evans is one of the few. Frustrated with the limited offering of stylish and affordable shoes from traditional manufactures, Ben Earley and Evan Fript set out to design a well-constructed, stylish shoe for a reasonable price. All of their shoes are hand built in Italy using Italian calfskin and are finished with a sleek Blake construction. But, I’m not here to talk about their shoes. They also provide belts and I have to say, they are pretty slick.
Construction
The belt is handmade from thick, fine Italian leather, uses heavy-duty thread for stitching and is finished with a solid brass buckle. Everything about the construction screams durability and style, but the craziest part is that the belt is cut-to-fit. When I heard this, I immediately had images of the dual sided belts from the discount store come to mind, but once I realized how it worked, I was pleasantly surprised.
What Paul Evans does is very tasteful. The buckle is a separate assembly that connects to the rest of the belt with a hefty Chicago screw. The part that is cut off is hidden between the buckle assembly, which gives the belt a seamless unity. Of course, this means that the owner must cut his new belt and then punch a hole for the screw or take it to a shoe shop to have them fit it for you. Even though the build quality is top notch and the materials are excellent, for the price, I would like the belt to fit me before it comes to my door. The design is ingenious and definitely allows Paul Evans to provide customers with more selection, but having measured or made-to-order belts available instead would definitely increase the value.
Function
The belt from Paul Evans held up my trousers with style. Outside of doing exactly what a belt is supposed to do, its surprising thickness gave me confidence that I will be wearing it for many years to come without much worry of the leather breaking down.
Aesthetic
Paul Evans did a great job with this belt. The color is rich and deep and the look can be dressed up or down with relative ease making it incredibly versatile. On mine, the Chicago screw is exposed and the stitching is very noticeable making it a little bit harder to wear in extremely formal settings, but adds class to an otherwise casual look. The only part of the belt that looks rough is on the backside where some dye has bled through the stitching. Both of these issues are minor and probably have been remedied since their newer offerings have covered the screws and down played the stitching for a sleeker look.
Conclusion
Paul Evans makes one mean belt. By putting together great styling with quality materials, this is one is tempting, but for the price, I would like to have it ready to wear as soon as I got it. If you do not mind the extra work and your are looking for dress belt that stands out, check out the selection on their site. While you are at it, spend some time drooling over their shoes.
Check out Paul Evans at www.paulevansny.com
Marlondo Leather Single Space Briefcase Review – $380
Marlondo Leather is back in action after a surprising hiatus. Some of you may already know that as a result of our review of his smartphone wallet back in August. This time around we’re reviewing one of Ma’s classic briefcases – the 15” Single Space Briefcase.
About Marlondo Leather
Ma Londo, founder of Marlondo Leather, made quite a splash when he entered into the leather bag world. He quickly garnered some good press, rave reviews of his creations and then, he was nowhere to be found. Fortunately, he is back and appears to be going strong with an updated website full of wonderful leathery goodness.
In non-typical form, Marlondo’s products are made in China…but with leather that is purchased and imported from the United States. In Ma’s own words, “Our bags are made to be used without worry. There are no cheap, breakable parts, no big, ugly logos, just products that will be loyal to you your whole life.”
Construction
I know it’s cliché to say, “it’s built like a tank” – but, the Marlondo Leather 16” Single Space Briefcase is built like a tank. Really. It ranks right up there with Saddleback and Thrux Lawrence as far as being über heavy duty in its construction. Thick, 100% full grain leather, heavy duty stitching, pigskin lining, solid brass nickel-plated heavy-duty hardware, and rivets…everywhere (40+ of those lil buggers).
For those of you who are, well…more “seasoned” in life (ahem, older) you might remember the American Tourister commercials with the suitcase being thrown around by a gorilla. Remember how it attempted to beat the snot out of it to no avail? I imagine this briefcase could easily withstand that same type of abuse. It’s solid, it’s heavy, it’s thick, and seemingly will last eons.
Function
As its name alludes, this briefcase only contains one main pocket in it. It’s spacious though and will easily transport a 15” laptop and any accessories you wish to carry. It does have one internal slot (a MacBook Air, iPad, or other thin device can slip into it easily), and on the side it features a couple of penholders and a key strap. Outside, it features a magazine/newspaper slot on the back, an open pocket on one side that’s suitable for a water bottle, while the other side has a pocket that is secured via a buckle and belt set up.
The other nice feature of this bag is that it has attachment d-rings all over it. There are plenty of aftermarket straps and accessories that will easily clip on to this bag allowing you to add on and customize it to your liking. And, you can reconfigure the hefty shoulder strap so that the bag may be carried as a backpack. The strap does include two soft, cushy strap pads making this an even more appealing method of carrying the bag.
Aesthetic
Aesthetically, it’s very pleasing. The nice dark brown leather is already aging well at this point and is garnering a nice patina. Currently my middle son is carrying this bag in college over in Montana. So, it is seeing daily usage. He has grown very fond of the bag and says it gets lots of compliments from friends, other students, and professors alike. Personally, I think the Marlondo Leather 16” Single Space Briefcase is an ideal every day carry bag. It sports enough capacity to carry whatever is needed and it does so in style. It doesn’t feature a unique design – but personifies the classic leather briefcase style really well.
In addition to the comfortable shoulder strap pads, it also features a thickly-padded handle. One thing to note – with a classic briefcase in this style (from virtually any leather company), you must completely close the main compartment’s flap via both buckles if you wish to carry the bag by the handle. It’s not a big deal – just something that needs to be pointed out about the basic functionality of this classically styled briefcase. If you prefer to keep the straps unsecured, you just need to plan on carrying it by the shoulder strap only.
Conclusion
Marlondo Leather’s 16” Single Space Briefcase is a solid performer. It truly is built like a tank and will take virtually any abuse you can shell out while still maintaining great looks. It’s fairly priced at $380 given its time-tested design and use of high quality materials. This briefcase is also available in a 14” version should you desire a slightly smaller version. Marlondo Leather looks to be back for good this time, so purchase with confidence and enjoy your leather.
35% Off Select Saddleback Leather Products
Saddleback Leather is clearing out their inventory of discontinued or slow moving items. I haven’t seen a sale like this before and they claim they won’t do another for the foreseeable future. 35% off on a leather product is very significant considering the high cost of making these bags. On top of the 35% off Saddleback Leather is also offering free shipping on orders over $200
Use the code PIGSFLY on the items on their sale page for the 35% off these certain items.
Classic Briefcase in carbon (black) – $369 to 431
Beast Duffel (!) in carbon – $589
Thin Briefcase in carbon – $299 to $308
Side Pocket Duffel in carbon – $425
Front Pocket Briefcase in carbon – $377
Leather Bible Cover in various colors – $26 to $28
Leather Suitcase in carbon – $685 to $764
Thin Front Pocket Briefcase – $310
What do you think?
Southwind Leather Two Slot Cardholder Review – $34
Wallets are everywhere and they’re made from just about every type of material known to man. So, what’s the deal with highlighting yet another wallet here on BestLeather? Well, we keep finding unique ones that stand out for one reason or another. Such is the case with the Two Slot Cardholder from Southwind Leather.
About Southwind Leather
Southwind Leather, based in the United Kingdom, is the progeny of Dan Mroz. Dan hails from the southern part of England and has been fully immersed in leather crafting since 2012. BestLeather featured one of his excellent Bridle Leather Belts not that long ago.
All of Dan’s pieces are hand cut and hand sewn – he does not use any machines in the production of his crafts.
Construction
The Southwind Two Slot Cardholder received for testing features french buffalo calfskin in an attractive shade of color called rosewood. The leather is really incredible – super thin, tight grained, yet supple and looks to offer many years of wear. It also has a slightly waxy finish that offers up a luxurious sheen.
The two slot cardholder is an appealing piece. In a not close up view, it looks fantastic. When you get up close and examine it though, it’s apparent that it’s handmade. This appearance can elicit two contrasting reactions: initially there will be those folks who will downplay it because the stitching isn’t perfectly even and the leather isn’t trimmed proportionally on both sides while others will look at this and appreciate it for just those same features, which quickly identify it as totally handmade.
Function
This is not a large wallet at all. It’s very small to be exact. I have found myself using this exclusively for “date nights” with my wife. When we go out, I only need a couple of cards on me: my debit card, a credit card, my license, and some cash. So, in that role, it functions perfectly. I would be hard pressed to use it daily, as I just simply can’t fit everything in it. I don’t think I’d try to carry more than 5, maybe 6 cards total in it. If you’re a true minimalist, this might be just the wallet for you. The Southwind Leather Two Slot Cardholder is also an excellent business card holder. It will hold about 10-12 business cards easily between the two slots.
In the role I’ve assigned to it, it’s splendid. It’s got a great feel to it. I often find myself just fiddling with it because of the calfskin leather’s feel. I’d be a happy man if I could get a chair made with this leather…wow, that would feel great!
Aesthetic
I’ve been on somewhat of a journey with the way this little wallet looks. When it came out of the box the first time, my initial reaction was, “wow, it’s great”. Then, I looked at it a little closer. The stitching and the uneven trim caught my eye and became a turn off. Now, I look at it and think, wow…that’s some small stitching and it’s all done by hand…I’m impressed and could never come close to doing that myself.”
I appreciate what Dan has created here and think it’s a solid little piece. I’m sure as Dan continues to refine his craft that his stitching will get even better. Leatherwork is a journey and skills take time to be sharpened and refined. And, I’m okay with that. What I have is a uniquely crafted piece of uber-quality leather molded into a useful little wallet that I get to enjoy every time I take my wife out or attend a more formal function where I don’t want to carry a full sized wallet.
Conclusion
As mentioned earlier, the Southwind Leather Two Slot Cardholder is a pretty small option to serve as an every day wallet (unless you are a hardcore minimalist). But, I believe that it is a great contender for a more formal, special occasion wallet. It’s fashioned from some really luxurious leather and it’s 100% handmade. At $34, it’s not going to break your budget either…so, you’ll definitely have a few bucks to fold up and put into it. And while you’re putting it in your Southwind Leather Two Slot Cardholder, you’ll enjoy the feel of that awesome leather too.
*Dan is also offering a great special right now exclusively to BestLeather readers (thank you Dan). Use this code, SPECIAL 10, during checkout on his site and you’ll receive 10% off of your entire purchase. Enjoy!
Mascon Leather Custom Leather Chef Knife Roll Review – $650
A chef’s knives are almost as important as their hands. Chefs use their hands to hold their knives, precisely cut the plate’s components, and present the diner with a reflection of their skill and essentially themselves. When I approached Artie Shell, owner of Mascon Leather, to make a custom leather knife roll that would both showcase and protect my valuable tools, Artie applied the similar expertise with his hands to create a piece of precision and presentation to not only protect my knives, but to compliment and showcase them.
Artie Shell has been crafting handmade leather pieces in Williamsburg, Virginia since early 2011. What originally started as a hobby to make more durable book covers, knife sheaths and cell phone covers for his kids has since turned into a more serious and dedicated business. He named his company Mascon Leather after his family’s business, ‘Mas-Con Construction’ (masonry and concrete), started by his grandfather. Although Artie’s grandfather has passed on, his legacy and pride for family and hand-built items lives in Artie’s leatherwork. Sourcing the best leather hides, thread, and tools available, Artie designs custom one-of-a-kind pieces including wallets, knife sheaths, axe covers, knife/tool rolls, and messenger bags with the upmost attention to detail and customer consultation. Each piece is designed to be timeless and constructed to age beautifully. Artie also currently contributes and works with a growing leather community on Facebook. For the short time Artie has been working with leather, I am sure I am not alone when I say he has accelerated in his craft and far exceeded the expertise to a professional leatherworker.
Construction
This particular knife roll is made from almost one whole hide of 5.0 oz (2 mm) weight English Dublin tan Horween leather. The hardware features 80 solid copper rivets and nickel plated brass hardware including 2 buckles with strap keeps, lobster-style clasps for the removable shoulder strap and a buckle on the shoulder strap with two strap keeps and d-rings. The stitching on the inside business card slot and gadget pouch is a high quality polyester thread. There is also an exposed aluminum bar on the underside of the handle for additional support.
Once unrolled, there are 12 knife/tool slots (including 2 small inverted ones towards the top), a business card slot, a pen or thermometer slot, a slot for a utility kitchen scraper, and a removable (snaps in and out) gadget pouch with d-rings on the back (to hang from a oven handle or pot rack).
The knife roll dimensions are 20 inches long x about 7 inches wide when rolled and when unrolled is 35 inches long x 7 inches wide. Without anything in it the case weighs about 5 pounds.
Lastly, the leather knife roll has a handle on top and a removable and adjustable cross body shoulder strap.
Function
This leather knife roll is extremely functional as my main knife case to use for a job. Sometimes in small work areas it is a bit awkward to unroll and reroll because of its size, and takes getting adjusted to.
Deep leather pockets with rivet dividers were custom cut and made to my knife specifications. The knives point downward with the handles exposed rather than the handles in the pockets and the blades exposed for reasons I’ll discuss in the aesthetic section of this review.
The inside gadget pouch holds about 3-5 tools (depending on size) and closes with a simple flap tuck design. Again, the gadget pouch is removable and is easy to snap in and out of the knife roll.
To say the only function of this leather roll is to hold and protect my knives is a crime. This bag is more like a piece of art or a fashion accessory that also happens to carry knives and tools. Expect to get a lot of head turns and compliments when going out with a piece like this.
Aesthetic
No amount of words can describe seeing this piece in person. I unwrapped it similarly (if not more carefully) to a kid on christmas.
The piece with its various stretch, pull-up marks, scars, and hardware components is a heavy duty industrial strength piece of equipment. It has some serious heft as one would expect in a full grain leather piece and when full of knives, it is even heavier. Long walking commutes may be straining on one’s shoulder and back. It definitely takes time to get used to but in my opinion I like the heaviness of it. It shows quality and durability.
The pockets on the inside hold my knives very snug and securely with a little room incase I was to replace a knife (I will NEVER have to replace the knife roll) or a tool down the road in my profession. A debate that may arise with chefs is the decision to put the blades into the pockets with the handles pointing out rather than the other way as many other knife cases are designed. I chose this so my knives were more protected and less likely to hit against each other in travel. A concern I had as well was if the blades would rub against the rivets that are separating the pockets and damage the blade over time. Artie quickly assured me that the space between the rivets and the leather was significant that it would never be an issue. He even drew me a picture. Of course, Artie can design the pockets to hold the handles with the blades facing up if that is what you prefer.
The knife roll unfolded features a large flap that covers the knives before being rolled. The large flap is left rustic, without a finished edge for style. I really love the edge as this is how the hide was originally. Others may prefer to have this edge finished and Artie is happy to accommodate. Another concern I had with the flap is that it did not fasten to the knife roll and therefore it was hard to align it just right to roll the case evenly every time. Artie told me that the leather will be stiff for a bit but with more use it will form like a glove and soften up to make this task easier. After 2 months of use I already see this happening.
I requested a gadget pouch in the knife case because like other chefs I carry around various vegetable peelers, pastry brushes, wine openers, or other knick knacks that need a home too. Artie took this idea and made it even better than I could imagine. Not only did he create a perfect sized pouch but he made it removable with snaps and attached small d-rings to the backside to hang if desired. This idea is incredibly cool! It is very convenient to remove that pouch and keep it handy on my work station than to have to keep unrolling and re rolling to fetch a small tool.
This is not just a knife roll though, it’s a chef briefcase. Nothing screams professional and class more than this leather knife roll does. To that extent, this is not the case you’ll want to take everywhere. Being that it is heavy and large, it may not be the tool case for a job in a small and busy kitchen. It’s comparable to a nice pair of leather shoes or boots – you wear them on a fancy or professional related situation and you aren’t going to necessarily wear them to a soccer game, a picnic, or a muddy day.
Customization
I’ll say it here and say it boldly-Artie Shell is one of the most personable, friendly, and accommodating custom craftsmen that I have ever had the pleasure to work with. Artie first set up an initial phone call to gauge what type knife roll I wanted, the size, and functionality. An experience you may find close to this may be a custom suit taylor or shoe maker. After I sent Artie the dimensions of all my knives and tools I wanted to carry in the leather roll, Artie immediately began to draw up ideas and shoot me input and questions through emails. It was a fun process seeing the stages of Artie’s work and being able to have constant input on different options along the way. I could tell from the beginning that Artie wanted to put as much time and dedication into my knife roll to make me 200% happy and satisfied.
It was a throughly enjoyable experience to converse with Artie over the phone and through emails (about 50 or so). A great relationship formed between the two of us, the mind of a chef and the mind of leatherworker. Here are a few of my favorite converses between us:
Artie: “No rush! This means nothing to anyone but me, but since we’re sharing…The scariest part or the WHOLE process is making that first cut into a solid 20 + Square foot hide of genuine Horween leather. It’s nerve racking. but once it’s done, the fun begins because you can’t turn back.”
—
Artie: “Another oddity about leather crafters- it’s so hard to toss scraps, no matter the size. I think, ‘There HAS to be something I can do with that, somewhere!’ or ‘If I toss this out today, I’m going to wish I had it next week!’ Yeah…we’re looney, us leather folks.”
—
Artie: “Meant to ask: How do you feel about scars showing? Some hate it, others love it. got a piece here with a gorgeous scar I’d like to try to put on the strap. Or I can avoid it.
Me: “I like the scars. It’s real leather.”
Artie: “I woke up in the middle of the night with the fear that I’d forgotten something. I forgot to put my company hang tag on the knife roll before I sent it. I’ve made about 59,000 items and put a tag on every one of them. then the flagship knife roll comes along, and I forget.
Me: “59,000 items in 3 years?? All yourself?!
Artie: “Well it feels like that for the amount of dedication and passion I put into each one of them. I rounded upward a tad (a lot).”
Artie: “Been meaning to ask: did you want your initials branded on the bag?”
Me: “No it’s not necessary. I’ll know it’s mine. As will very one else.”
Artie: “Nice one! That made me laugh out loud!”
BestLeather Conclusion
This product, like any other high quality leather pieces, may be considered a serious investment to some. With a price tag of $650 it is just that. The quality, durability, customization and time that goes into a piece like this is, in my opinion, well worth it.
Artie’s open line of consultation, willingness to try new things and get creative really speaks to the similar mind of a chef. As any chef will tell you, it starts with an idea and then a lot of preparation. The same hold’s true in Artie’s work. To own a custom leather knife roll from Mascon Leather speaks highly of the level of a chef and their professionalism.
Check it out here.
Shoe Passion #591 “Double Monk” Shoe Review – $281
These shoes smell delicious. I’m not sure why that still stands out to me but the pleasure of their aroma is notable. It reminds me of a sweet woody smell with a factory twist. Though it seems strange to say the flavor is distinctly German. Dubbing themselves “The Berlin Shoe Brand,” SHOEPASSION is one of few German shoe manufacturers still making classics. Their heels are still produced in the recently featured Rendenbach factory from traditional designs and attached to contemporary shoes that feature modern technology. The “passion” poured into their craft is clear in their lovingly constructed website chock full of information and guides to selecting and maintaining shoes, a passion that is true to the company’s name. Zeal for product however is seldom enough to justify a $280 price tag, but a shoe like the #591 double monk-strap can stand on its own merit.

CONSTRUCTION
They are suitably well built. Monk straps shoes are formed in a similar manner to derbys meaning that the last is separated into two parts where the eyelets would be but are here covered with the strap. Flexible and well shaped, the strap is a sturdier alternative to laces and additionally strengthened by the use of metal buckles. These two buckles are attached to the shoe with pieces of elastane so as to allow the shoe to function as a slip-on at will – a course of action I cannot recommend if you lack a shoe horn with which to put them on.
The sole is thick, all of the seams are clean and seamless as well as subtly double stitched for strength and the goodyear-welting is solid. Box calf leather covers the shoe, which is thinner than a shell cordovan, but also pliable enough to be more forgiving. Included in the packaging for the shoes is a pair of rubber vibram sole covers which a cobbler can put on for around ten dollars. This offers extra waterproofing and an extended sole life, which is a good idea for a three hundred dollar shoe.
FUNCTION
Monk straps are generally less popular than derbys and oxfords and are therefore still somewhat of a rarity in America. They do have something alien to them, perhaps the strange process of fiddling with two straps rather than a set of laces when donning or removing them. This takes a little getting used to but eventually the process of removing each strap from the buckles is a cinch (faster than a pair of laces, in fact).
As aforementioned this style is intended to be a slip-on which is not quite as seamless a process. Without a shoe horn attempting to slip monk-straps on and off would ruin them; it is still a bit dangerous with the horn. The weight of the shoe is the greatest inconvenience and left my surprised feet like overworked oxen at the end of a few days. Solid box-leather shoes with such a thick sole were not surprising with their weight though it should be taken into consideration if your intention is to wander city streets for longer than a couple hours.
AESTHETIC
The dark brown of the last is a deep rich color featuring an artificial toe-cap patina and complemented by well chosen silver buckles that add to the sleek appearance. The cap toe proves a good choice for the target aesthetic of the monk-straps breaking up the length of an otherwise long toe. These are not considered formal footwear but semi-formal a few steps below patent leather oxfords and such. In this niche, #591 can be worn with a variety of jeans, slacks, and even the right shorts; good pairings abound with a good looking shoe, which is something that stretches back to the origins of the dress shoe.
Even within the confines of staple dress shoe versatility the monk-strap is a unique shoe, one of its strongest points. In any group, even one of well-dressed men, the double monk-strap is still capable of standing out (a task considerably more difficult for its derby and oxford cousins.
BestLeather CONCLUSION
At €219 ($281) SHOEPASSION’s #591 double monk-strap is among a wave of more affordable luxury shoes, comparable in quality to the American made Allen Edmonds. That much being said they still performed above my expectations. Though soft these are a reasonable option with a strong sole and good physical design that is aided greatly by how well they are constructed . A little heavy after extended periods of wear and difficult to slip on and off there is still enough charm and comfort (assuming they fit well, take UK sizing into account when purchasing a pair) in the laceless design to merit an investment in a pair of these German luxury shoes.
For more products from SHOEPASSION visit: http://www.shoepassion.com/
How To Make Yourself A Huge Leather Desk Pad – $150
I have been wanting a desk pad for a while but the retail cost, available sizes, and quality levels have been holding me back. Saddleback Leather wants a hefty $213 for their admittedly nicely finished desk pad. That’s too rich for my taste considering all I want is a hefty piece of leather. Amazon’s offerings are chinsy and still expensive for what they are. So fine! I’ll make my own.
A trip to the Tandy Leather Store over in Spokane netted me a large side of ridiculously thick 13-14oz cowhide on sale for $100. It was easily large enough to cover the entire desk. You can make one also, and very easily.
You will need
- large hunk of leather
- straight edge
- measuring tape
- rotary cutter or exacto knife (Olfa Cutter worked well for me)
- Tandy Leather Edge Beveler
- Tandy Leather Burnisher
- Fiebings Neatsfoot Oil (or some other conditioner)
installation instructions
- Measure your desk and mark the dimensions on your suitably sized side of leather. I made my pad a couple inches large in each direction to let the edge of the leather sag over the edge of the desk.
- Use the straight edge and your cutter to slice out the pad. Go slow and press down hard so that you do not have to make a second pass.
- Run the edge beveler over the edges to take the sharp edge off. Continue at your discretion depending on how rounded you want the edges.
- Get the edges wet that you wish to burnish and run the Tandy Leather burnisher back and forth quickly to sear the edge with friction. Alternatively you can implement a dremel like below which would be much faster.
- Put heavy items where the leather stubbornly lifts up until it submits to your will.
- Slather your conditioner of choice on with a piece of sheeps wool. A large pad will consume quite a bit of conditioner.
results
Unless you buy a really nice piece of leather like A grade Herman Oak or Wicket & Craig you will likely have scars and various imperfections in the leather. I chose to accept this since I plan to treat this pad roughly and I didn’t want to pay the hefty prices for A grade sides. Now I have an impressive piece of leather covering my desk, the cherry wood is protected, the pad will last forever (practically), and it only cost me $150 or so.
What do you think?
Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet Review – $605
be·spoke [ bi-ˈspōk ] – made to order: made to a customer’s specifications
Half-British. Half-Iranian. All Canadian. Andrew Diba is a British Columbian luxury bespoke leather designer who will personally meet with each of his customers to create any design that both he and the customer would be proud to own. No kits, instruction manual, or YouTube videos here – Andrew Diba has spent over five years in self-motivated learning through his own trial and error, an apprenticeship with a Budapest shoemaker, and designing and producing his own goods for house brands. To break through the limitations of price point and quantity, he has more recently branched out on his own, creating Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba to focus on the essentials of crafting instead of business.
CONSTRUCTION
The Geometric Wallet is one of Andrew Diba’s flagship innovative designs. The design incorporates more pocket space while keeping it slim and interesting. This particular custom wallet is made with only two pieces from a single pristine high-grade juvenile American alligator skin chrome-tanned in Italy. The cutting of the skin is thoughtfully designed to maximize scale placement. The inner triangle is cut out from the (eh-hem) genital area where the scales coalesce into smaller rings for an attractive viewing window. There is lining even in the hidden slots, made from Australian kangaroo tanned in Italy and for good reason. Kangaroo provides the strongest leather for any given thickness, insuring lifelong durability and hold to the wallet’s shape. The inner leather is a terracotta vegetable-tanned Sokoto goatskin from Nigeria using unique tanning agents from the Bagaruwa tree (a.k.a. Acacia Arabica) which is then tanned again in the UK with Sumac. All imported exotic skins are sustainable leather sources and CITES-labelled and approved.
Everything at Neo Nouveau is 100% hand-stitched to 10 stitches/inch by Andrew Diba with traditional saddle-making techniques and French linen threads. Because exotic leathers are frequently chrome-tanned, the edges cannot simply be burnished. This particular finish is hand-sanded and melted, re-sanded, and repeated several times using special French waxy edge paint with a six-month shelf-life. After six months, even if only a drop has been used, the rest is thrown away. No cutting corners here. This extra effort to find the optimal edge paint is to maximize the range of available colors while providing much more durability and water resistance. Finishing can take up to several days but the waxy edge doesn’t have the typical unnatural or plastic look and is much less likely to separate at folded edges due to increased wear.

For final confirmation and quality control, Andrew Diba e-mails multiple photographs of the custom item prior to any shipment to guarantee a satisfied customer. If it isn’t right, it’s thrown away.
FUNCTION
The sheer amount of details and construction of this particular wallet makes it so that it no longer functions as a wallet. Instead, it is a showpiece. I can’t bring myself to stuff too many things into it for fear of ruining its stunningly fluid look. Should I stuff an old Costco receipt and my five coffee stamp cards into it? Probably not. Will it hold everything if I wanted to? Of course. The wallet is thin enough to fit comfortably into both back and front pockets and the alligator is surprisingly soft and light. The leathers are expected to self-condition with oils from the hands which is good since you will find yourself not wanting to let go of this wallet. Andrew Diba recommends Saphir Reptan conditioner for all his exotic skins.
AESTHETIC
Text doesn’t do this wallet justice. It is beautiful, well-crafted, and screams luxury. Why waste time on describing the wallet when I can just post photos. The best part? No eyesore of a brand or label. It is better matched for formal or chic apparel but with something at this level you can wear it with anything and no one will dare criticize you.
BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION
The Neo Nouveau by Andrew Diba Geometric Wallet is a standout leather creation. At $605 with free international shipping for this combination of materials, you get a personally constructed heirloom quality product without breaking the bank. This is a bespoke good and as such, the entire construction can be customized online or in person, from color of edging and stitching to leather combinations ranging from Horween to shark. It may be an ambitious investment for some people, but once you have one in your hands, you won’t regret it.