Maybe you like leather goods. You might have a jacket or some leather pants that you wear all the time. You may enjoy your leather seats and steering wheel in your car. Perhaps you like leather’s look, texture, and even the smell.
How does the leather goods industry get this material to you, though? Most people don’t know about the step-by-step process that gets you the clothing and other leather products they like so much.
We’ll talk about that right now. This industry has existed for many years, and it likely won’t slow down anytime soon.
It Starts with Cows
There are many machines required to produce leather. Some of them, like slitting machines, come into play during the later steps. Slitting machines have many practical manufacturing applications when making leather, but before the material ever gets to that point, it starts with the humble cow.
First, farmers slaughter cows. They use the meat for various things, such as human and animal consumption. Humans might eat the steaks, but you can use the parts humans don’t like and make dog food and similar products. Virtually no animal part isn’t useful for something.
The fresh hides must cure in salt for several days. Then, the manufacturer soaks them in a special acidic solution. They remove the flesh and hair. At that point, you have virgin hide, ready for the next step.
The Splitting Process
Next, the leather manufacturer splits the hide into two layers. They call one the high-quality side. They might also use the term “full grain” when they talk about this. They often use full-grain leather to make purses, belts, or boots.
They also have the low-quality split grain when they conclude this process. They will usually turn this into suede.
Though they do not consider suede high-quality leather, it’s still quite soft and pliable. Many people like suede clothing and will still pay top dollar for it.
The Tanning Process
At this point, the manufacturer must tan the split hides. They soak the split hides in a plant-based tannin solution. They might also use a chemical equivalent that produces the same results. Some manufacturers no longer use tannin, and they utilize a synthetic replacement instead.
The tannins take some time and break down the collagen you naturally find in the hides. This process makes the hides softer and more workable. They become stretchy.
The Re-Tanning Process
The manufacturer next puts the hides through a second tanning session. This process preserves the remaining collagen. They will also add dyes or conditioning agents.
When this process concludes, the hides will look closer to the finished products you’ll see on store shelves. They still need some additional steps before you can enjoy them, though.
Drying and Rolling
Earlier, we mentioned slitting machines. They’re just one of the machines the leather goods manufacturer needs during the complex drying and rolling process.
The manufacturer takes the hides and feeds them into machines that stretch, dry, and roll them. Imagine a large floor with dozens of these machines, or hundreds. They’re noisy, and they produce a distinct smell. Some people like it, while other leather workers detest it.
These days, the industry has automated much of this work. You must still feed the hides into the machinery, though. The industry needs fewer humans now for this process than it once did. It’s another example of how automation usually makes its way into product creation.
The leather after you finish this process is soft, supple, and ready for the final stage of its journey.
The Finishing Process
The final step involves finishing the leather. What the manufacturer does with it at this point depends on what they’ll make out of it. Usually, they’ll add some polish or pigment as a slick, glossy coat.
For some leather grades or applications, they skip the glossy material. Now, they’ll send the leather to workers who can cut and sew it. It might go to places like car manufacturing facilities to make leather seat covers and steering wheel covers. It may go to shops where the workers will make boots, belts, and purses out of it.
Vegetable Tanning
These steps comprise the basic process that gets leather from cows. You have some companies that do things a little differently, though.
For instance, some companies use a vegetable tanning process, while others skip it. Individuals who love leather and know the best kinds typically prefer vegetable tanning.
With vegetable tanning, you get fuller, firmer leather goods. Belts, luggage, and high-end shoe soles use this method. Vegetable-tanned leather is high-quality leather. Manufacturers make it using only natural ingredients, and it ages well.
You must care for vegetable-tanned leather products if you want them to last, though. They will not resist extreme temperatures the same way chemically-treated leather does They do not resist water staining the same way, and they also cost more.
Despite all that, vegetable-tanned leather is absolutely gorgeous. It smells and looks richer. If you know leather, you can immediately see the difference when you buy a vegetable-tanned product.
Chrome-Tanned Leather
You can also sometimes find chrome-tanned leather. This creation process first appeared during World War II. At that point, you couldn’t get vegetable tannins very easily. Most of today’s leather comes from a chrome tanning process.
Some people think chrome tanning harms the environment, but that’s not true. Chromium III, which the leather manufacturers use, comes from naturally-occurring Chromium. It has a lower reactivity threshold.
Chrome-tanned leather has a flexible, smooth grain. You can produce it faster and cheaper than vegetable-tanned leather products.
Which Kind Will You Get?
If you like leather products, you now know how they get to you. You can choose either chrome-tanned leather or vegetable-tanned leather.
Either way, you know the skill and time required to get these products to you, the consumer. You can appreciate the craftsmanship and tradition that goes into leather making, and you can genuinely cherish the final product.
