Horween Leather Company Archives

May 17, 2019May 17, 2019

Olpr. Leather Goods Natural Leather Watchband Review – $49

Watches and leather..two luxurious things many luster over. The two combined makes for quite the fashion statement. Although I own only 2 watches, I love to interchange the bands based on season, formal attire or just fun!

Besides specializing in bags, wallets and other leather goods, Olpr’s watchbands have been quite popular due to the customizable nature with leathers and a wide range of classic and colorful thread colors.

Olpr. Leather Goods makes custom leather and thread watch bands using rich Horween leather that is sure to spice up your wrist wear.

About Olpr. Leather Goods Co.

Olpr. Leather Goods Co. is a small family business, started in Ukraine. All of the items are made to order, but they also have a showroom in the workshop where the customers can come and choose something from stock.

One day, Viktor, the company’s tailor, decided to sew the kind of wallet he had always wanted—a simple pocket wallet with a straight seam. It was so well made that he sold it the next day. He made another; he sold another. Soon, we were making leather goods for all of their friends. Their goods became so popular that they were invited to the arts markets. They sold everything they made. They had found their calling—creating leather goods.

The Internet gave Olpr. the exciting opportunity to sell their goods outside Ukraine. They could share their passion all over the world. But the distance caused a problem-shipping to the U. S. could take up to a month. That was not the type of service they wanted to provide, so they moved to North Carolina to be closer to their many American friends who value the handmade leather products.

Construction

All of the leathers used are the full-grain cowhides sourced from Horween tannery. High grade thread comes in several different colors ranging from the classic white, brown and black to more fun colors like orange, blue, green. The buckle is stainless steel. The bands are available in various widths and lengths. They also carry bands tailored to fit apple watches.

Aesthetic

I absolutely love the fact that not only are these watches made from high quality leather, but you can customize them to fit your skin, wardrobe, or just overall style. I personally wear a lot of blues and light colors so chose a sky blue thread color that compliments the natural Horween brown and has a gorgeous pull up effect. I can’t wait to see what this leather looks like through age. The buckle is very basic and lightweight which is one thing to keep in mind. I actually prefer this. I own some watch bands with a very clunky and heavy hardware and although that is a statement, it is nice to have a buckle with a low profile to put the attention on the leather band and, of course, the watch.

Conclusion

At $49 for a Horween leather customizable watch band like this, I truly believe it is a great value. Other customizable bands I have come across can easily go for $100 and over. The leather is gorgeous with some natural marks and scars from the hide and the thread colors are fun to mix and match. I am already contemplating another color combination! Check them out -Here-.

October 16, 2014December 19, 2017

Horween Leather Company and Thrux Lawrence All Leather Thrux Pack – $990

In the not too distant past, BestLeather received a hide of the Horween Leather Company’s latigo leather, in a chestnut color. Thinking of one of the best places we could take the hide to and develop it into something beautiful and functional, we immediately thought of Thrux Lawrence of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. We asked them to craft something fine from the leather so that we can showcase Horween’s latigo leather and something fine they indeed crafted.

Tanden Launder, the proprietor of Thrux Lawrence, took the project a step further and crafted something new for them, an ALL leather Thrux Pack. They craft many of their thick 24 ounce canvas and latigo leather Thrux Packs, which are beautiful and extremely rugged, and which they sell online and at their brick and mortar store in Coeur d’Alene, but they had yet to make an all leather Thrux Pack. This was a serendipitous opportunity to try something a little new.

HORWEEN LEATHER COMPANY

The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905 by Isadore Horween. The company has remained in family hands (currently run by Arnold “Skip” Horween, Isadore’s great grandson) ever since and is now the last remaining tannery in the Chicago area, and one of the few remaining industrial tanneries in the United States. Horween’s first product was shell cordovan for razor strops.

After the invention of the electric razor and the subsequent reduced demand for razor strops, Horween recognized the need to diversify it’s leather portfolio. The result has been some fine leathers, and some tanning recipes that are still being used today, decades later (think Chromexcel).

Avid readers of BestLeather will be very familiar with the name Horween. The simple reason for this is that many, many of the leather companies whose products we review use Horween’s leather. And the simple reason for that is because Horween produces some of the finest (if not the finest) leather for consumer goods. Their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan probably get the most attention in the realm of high quality leather goods, but one line of leather that needs a little more recognition is their Latigo line of leather.

ABOUT THE LATIGO LINE OF LEATHER

Tanden with Thrux swears by latigo leather. In my conversations with him he has repeated that latigo is the time tested leather, and of course he is correct. Latigo is a form or method of tanning leather. Traditionally tanned from cowhide, latigo is normally combination tanned, usually chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned, which is how Horween still does it. Latigo has traditionally been used for horse tack, namely for saddle cinches. The reason for this is the durable nature of latigo. It is tanned in a way that makes it more stiff than many of your luxury leathers, with less stretch, and as a result is more durable. This is the main reason that Thrux Lawrence prefers latigo, its durable nature.

Another benefit in using Horween’s latigo is that their leather is struck through. This means that after tanning the hide, the hide is then dyed with the color of choice, and they allow the dye to penetrate through the entire hide. Many tanneries simply dye the exterior of the leather, but when cut into you see either a blue strip running through the middle of the leather (in the case of chrome tanned leathers), or a light brown strip (in the case of vegetable tanned leather). For the purposes of luxury consumers goods, this is unacceptable. Striking the leather through is more time consuming and expensive, but Horween doesn’t take any shortcuts and that shows in their leather.

ABOUT THE ALL LEATHER THRUX PACK

Like all of Thrux Lawrence goods, the All Leather Thrux Pack is ridiculously tough and overbuilt, which is just the way I like it. This particular Thrux Pack uses two different colors and weights of latigo. Horween provided BestLeather a chestnut hide that is four to five ounces in weight. This hide was used in the construction of the main body of the Thrux Pack, as well as the internal computer sleeve and pocket. Thrux used a darker brown latigo leather from Horween that is eight to nine ounces in weight for the shoulder straps, the top flap and straps, the handle, and their signature bucket tray, or bottom of the bag. Eight to nine ounce latigo leather in an of itself is thick and extremely rugged. Thrux takes that thick leather and doubles it for the shoulder straps and handle. The result is one hardy backpack that is bound to last generations.

To combine all of this beautiful and sturdy leather, Thrux uses very durable bonded nylon thread. For this Thrux Pack, they used a white thread which contrasts nicely against the chestnut colored leather. Note the double stitching for increased durability on the shoulder straps as well as the bottom tray, another indication of attention to detail. The hardware used for the buckles is solid brass. The zippers used are oversized, solid brass, YKK Zippers. And the rivets used to further secure the leather are solid brass rivets and burrs.

I stated in a previous article written for BestLeather that solid copper rivets are the toughest rivets you can use for leather, but I was mistaken. As brass is a combination of tin and copper, which results in a much harder metal than copper, solid brass rivets are much tougher than copper. The use of solid brass over solid copper rivets is indicative of Thrux Lawrence’s approach to leather crafting. They use only the very best materials in the making of their bags and goods.

With a lot of thick, sturdy latigo leather, the All Leather Thrux Pack is going to take some time to break in and be comfortable. On the flip side, after you use the bag for work or travel, you know your kid will be able to use it for college and work, and their kid will be able to do the same. The bag is that well made and the Horween leather that durable.

BEST LEATHER CONCLUSION

The All Leather Thrux Pack from Thrux Lawrence is a ridiculously well made bag. The choice of using latigo leather from the Horween Leather Company is the best choice. Latigo is time tested, is very durable, and Horween’s latigo is struck through and beautiful. $990 may seem like a lot to put down for a backpack and it is. But this really is not any ordinary bag. The attention to detail, the use of the best possible and most durable materials, and the quality craftsmanship means this is an investment in an heirloom quality good. The use of Horween’s latigo means you’re also getting the best quality leather that is used by the best leather companies in the United States and beyond. BestLeather definitely recommends the All Leather Thrux Pack and could not speak more highly of Horween’s latigo leather.

June 5, 2014December 19, 2017

Horween Leather Company – The Essex Line of Leather

The Horween Leather Company was established in 1905 in Chicago, Illinois by Master Tanner and founder Isadore Horween. At the time, there were thousands of tanneries in the United States and at its peak, dozens in Chicago. Isadore Horween felt that he could produce a better tanned hide based on his tanning experience, and soon the Horween name was known for its high quality leather. Today, Horween is the only tannery in the Chicago area, and one of just a handful of commercial tanneries in the United States.

The tradition of excellence that Isadore established is still very palpable today for Horween’s current owners and management. The commitment to quality craftsmanship and superior leather is still very much alive. BestLeather has had the fortune of working with Horween on a number of past articles and we are fortunate to work with Horween on a series of upcoming articles. Horween agreed to send to us three of their top selling leather hides for us to post articles on. We were sent one hide each of their Essex, Chromexcel, and Latigo leathers. These leathers are all somewhat different in application, appearance, and feel, but one common thread is that they are all beautiful leathers that are in high demand. In fact, many of the goods we review at BestLeather are made with these and other types of leather from Horween.

For this article, we will take a look at the Essex leather that Horween sells. The creation of Horween’s Essex leather was the brainchild of wanting to tan cowhide in the same manner as tanning Genuine Shell Cordovan (Cordovan being horsehide). When Horween constructed this idea, they knew that the result would be extraordinary. Extraordinary results normally take extraordinary work to accomplish, and this was the case for Essex. It took Horween two to three years of trials and production runs, and according to their own works, they eventually “nailed it”. Nailed it, they have.

TANNING

Like Genuine Shell Cordovan, Essex is straight 100% vegetable tanned. It similarly uses the same blend of liquors and extracts as the Cordovan. The result is a leather that is smooth to the touch, that feels durable and strong, yet is supple enough for the most sophisticated bags and leather goods. The leather is also full grain, which means that it has not been altered in a way that weakens it’s fibers or structure. It is the outermost leather of the hide, which is the strongest and most durable. Another characteristic of Essex is its high oil content. In making their Essex leather, Horween puts the hide through a fat liquoring process that enriches the leather with high quality oils, which, in turn, help give the leather not only long life, but the ability to age well, and look better and better over time. The leather is also hand glazed and then given an aniline finish.

ONE WORD – SUPPLE

For this project, we decided to make a simple messenger bag from the hide that Horween sent to us. As amateur leather crafters, we knew that what we would make would not be to the high standards of goods we normally review, but we wanted to get a feel for the Essex leather and learn about it from the experience of working with it. What we learned is that the leather is very supple, is gorgeous, and is easy to work with. The hide we were sent weighs four to five ounces. For some vegetable tanned leathers, that thickness would result in a leather that is fairly stiff and not very flexible. The Essex, on the other hand, is very supple, even at that weight. The process for creating the Essex leather is the reason for this result, with the oils and liquors used and the process for finishing each hide.

If you desire stiffness in a thinner leather, the Essex would not be the best choice. If you desire a leather that is a little thicker, but still very malleable and fine, then Essex is an excellent choice. The messenger bag that we made for an example turned out beautifully, but in hindsight, we probably would have made a bag that does not require as much rigidity. The design of this bag was fairly deep and needed to have some rigidity to hold up appropriately. The leather is supple enough that when you lay the bag on its bottom, it sags a bit. We decided to put the handle on the very top of the flap, and when lifting the bag up, the flap sagged as well and the result was that the bag did not hold up very well with that type of handle. It would have been better to put handles on the back of the bag. Since the rivet holes were already punched, we ended up adding a thick piece of leather on the underside of the flap, then lined the underside of the flap with pigskin. As a result, lifting the bag with the handle is now very secure.

LESSON LEARNED

The lesson learned is that Horween’s Essex leather is very supple, and the product design needs to take that into consideration. This particular messenger bag could be made with Essex with excellent result, but in a thicker weight, probably eight or nine ounces, as opposed to the four to five. We also could have lined the whole bag with a stiff pigskin lining, and that would have given it sufficient structure. Better yet would have been to choose a design that marries well with supple leather and that accentuates it. One company that does this well is Libero Ferrero. They use the Essex Leather from Horween and the bags they craft are beautiful and designed extremely well. We will be doing a follow-up article on the Essex leather and looking at one of Libero Ferrero’s bags in greater detail.

As discussed, Horween’s Essex leather is very supple, but that does not mean that it is not durable. To the contrary, this leather is made to last for generations. Vegetable tanned leather by nature is made more beautiful over time as it ages and patinas. It stands up better to the elements than straight chrome tanned leather, and the thickness of this leather will stand up to years of use.

COLOR AND FINISH

The Essex hide sent to us is what Horween calls their Dark Cognac color. I tend to love slightly darker brown colors on leather and it was not a surprise that I loved this color. It is a dark brown and in the right light has a small hint of red. The Essex has a high oil content which yields a finish that has a little bit of sheen to it, but not too much. The underside of the hide is a light brown color, but it is also finished beautifully, so we felt it not necessary initially to line the messenger bag. Another thing you get with Horween leathers are hides where the color is struck through. This is not very common with most tanneries because it takes longer in the large drum dyers and requires more dye to accomplish, which makes it more expensive. The result though is that the center of the hide is not blue or a really light tan. It is the same color as the entire hide, through and through.

BESTLEATHER CONCLUSION

The Horween Leather Company produces some of the finest leathers in the world, that are renowned for their quality, beauty, and durability. Their Essex line of leather is a very beautiful, supple leather that has a wide range of uses. Whether you are making wallets, duffel bags, purses, handbags, or any other consumer good made from Essex or buying said goods, Horween’s Essex is a fantastic choice.

Below is a sequence of pictures from the hide we received from Horween to completion of a simple messenger bag.