Ashland Leather Johnny The Fox Wallet Review – $125

I am a wimp when it comes to wallets. Perhaps it’s the curse of the 21st century metropolitan male: trim-fit pants leave little room for bulky wallets in the pockets, front or back. So my wallets have always been paper thin (I’m serious, my last wallet was literally made of a folded piece of Tyvek). So naturally, I was leary about getting attached to a leather wallet. I was afraid that it’d just end up riding in my coat pockets or my briefcase.

As always on my first pass over such objects, my eye fell on the immaculate stitching on this wallet from Ashland Leather. It is consistent and beautiful, on both sides. The soft interior leather left the imprint of the sewing machine’s footprint, but it is not to bad effect.

You can also read our review of Ashland Leather’s beautiful $200 shell cordovan wallet here.

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Only after holding it in my hands for a few moments did I remember the near-mystic feature of the famed Chromexcel: the color that changes like oiled latigo on each crease. I eagerly bent the body of wallet in my hand and watched the lighter colors leap from the creases I was making. I admit that I may have gone slightly weak-kneed.

It strikes me that the interior leather does not do the exterior justice, except to remind one of the exquisite nature of the exterior. The interior feels and looks more waxy, less natural and buttery than the metamorphous chromexcel.

The lines of the wallet, however, are perfect. The die cut, creases and panel alignment is without fault. It is instantly apparent that one’s hand is holding an object of value.

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LIVING WITH IT…

This wallet disappears with use. I don’t mean that it was stolen, I just mean that I forgot about it. I used it, and it disappeared in it’s function. That is the mark of superb product. My old wallet never disappeared. It was always there, shuffling my cards up to make it impossible to find things. This wallet just disappeared. When I needed something, it was always in the same place. That’s the beauty of it’s simplicity.

Today, though, as I prepared to write this, I rolled it around in my hands and reexamined the exterior for a while. It has acquired a patina, especially in the corners where no cards support it’s structure. A few scratches accent both faces. A very pleasing element of Chromexcel’s character is that with a few seconds of rubbing with bare skin, large scratches transform from annoying, gaudy displays of carelessness to subtle storytelling variations that seem to glow.

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The exterior leather has become very supple, and the color variations native to Chromexcel can be elucidated by running my finger along the inside of the wallet. Like magic, the color variations disappear again with a quick rub of my thumb. The only way to describe it is that it appears to be alive.

It’s worth noting that I never felt as if I should cradle this wallet. Maybe it’s the ability to rapidly repair minor scratches with nothing but your thumb, maybe it’s the robust quality of the build. Either way, it does not feel like a product that needs to be protected from the elements. I throw it around, let my 2 year old play with it, and toss it into my satchel with my textbooks, stethoscope and reflex hammer without a second thought. To that point, my suspicions were correct: this wallet does end up spending more time in my satchel or jacket pocket than in my pant pocket. But what of it?

BestLeather conclusion

I will end with this: the Johnny the Fox Chromexcel wallet from Ashland Leather melds into your life, disappearing into it’s function as soon as the leather becomes supple enough. And as something of a minimalist, that is really the highest honor I can bestow upon it. At $125, I don’t know that I would call it a bargain, per se. But as a Buy-It-For-Life product, it is a reasonable price of entry.

Check out the Johnny the Fox Wallet from Ashland Leather here.

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Ashland Leather Johnny the Fox Bi-fold Wallet – $200

The Ashland Leather company is maker of fine, small leather goods.  Based in Chicago, Illinois, they specialize in making high quality wallets, key fobs, key cases, and leather watch straps.  Ashland Leather was formed by two tanners from the Horween Leather Tannery.  With a knowledge of how to make superb leather, they decided that they needed to also make great products from great leather and their company was born.  BestLeather had the opportunity of reviewing their Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet.

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the name

Your first question might be, “Johnny the Fox, what’s up with the name”.  That’s a good question.  Named after a 1920’s Chicago gangster who was tough as nails, this wallet is similarly tough, with a never say die construction.  All of Ashland Leather wallets have similar names from unique Chicago history. For more info on the inspiration behind the name, read here.

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the leather

The Johnny the Fox is a classic bi-fold wallet, but the fact that it is made with genuine shell cordovan from Horween, ratchets up the uniqueness and quality of the wallet a few notches.  My first impression of the wallet was that it is a very simple bifold, but as I held it, and thumbed over it, I could tell that it was not an ordinary bi-fold, and the main reason was the leather.

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Shell Cordovan is a very unique and fairly rare leather.  A small section (the shell) is taken from a horse hide and tanned by Horween to perfection.  It’s a process that they have perfected over many years, and the end product is a piece of leather that is beautiful, looks rich, and as a distinctive feel.  In fact, it takes Horween over 6 months to complete the tanning and finishing process for their Cordovan.

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Shell Cordovan is known for it’s durability, denser grain, and resistance to abrasions.  What I did not initially know about Horween’s Shell Cordovan was its high gloss finish.  This makes the wallet pop when you whip it out of your back pocket and pull out the green.

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the function

Johnny the Fox has a main compartment for your bills, along with three slots on each side of the fold for your cards.  It also has a sleeve where you can slide in additional cards or necessities.  Though not a minimalist wallet where you slip in a few cards or cash and that is it, this is a simple wallet.  Using it this past week, there was something pleasing in using a classic wallet where there was sufficient room to carry some bills, plus all of the cards that I need to use.  It is a little too thick to also be used as a front pocket wallet, but it was never meant to be.

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Ashland Leather also has high attention to detail in the crafting of their products.  This wallet had precise stitching placement, clean lines on all of the cut leather, and perfectly symmetrical.  The fine craftsmanship is a great complement to the fine leather.

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BestLeather conclusion

Ashland Leather’s Johnny the Fox bi-fold wallet is simple, it is classic, and the leather is beautiful.  The quality of leather used on this wallet will ensure many years of use and abuse.  If you are in the market for a classic bi-fold, with a high degree of class, look no further than the Johnny the Fox from Ashland Leather.

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Ashland Leather’s Shell Cordovan & Chromexcel Polishing Steps

This is a syndicated article from the blog of Ashland Leather.

Shell cordovan has always been an amazing leather choice for footwear. Because of its beauty and durability it’s also the ultimate leather for a wallet. When used in a wallet, shell cordovan experiences a natural polishing effect from the rubbing action of being frequently pulled from your pocket. Furthermore, any moisture from your body will actually expedite the patina process. Developing a great looking wallet is as simple as just wearing it – it’s best to not over-think this one!

The process for polishing Shell Cordovan is identical to polishing Chromexcel.

Ashland Leather’s Shell Cordovan & Chromexcel Polishing Steps

1) Take a fine horsehair brush and brush the wallet for a minute or two to remove dirt and liven up the natural greases and oils within the leather. (Note: this may be all you need to do if the wallet looks great at this point!)

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2) Take a very lightly dampened soft cloth and quickly rub down the entire wallet. This will remove more dirt from the wallet. We like to do this step to even out some of the color and help activate the grease and oil in the skin. This step is how we create the base luster in the shell cordovan.

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3) Get your fine horsehair brush out again and brush your wallet thoroughly for about 5 minutes. This step is important to bring out the deep luster in the leather.

4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan – at Ashland we use Venetian Cream to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Apply evenly to a cloudy haze.

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5) Let the wallet sit for 10 minutes or more.

6) Buff off the polish with a dry cloth.

7) You can give a breath on the wallet to apply a small amount of moisture, give a quick, final brushing and enjoy your freshly polished wallet!

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All About Shell Cordovan – An Interview With Horween Leather Co.

Screen Shot 2013-06-03 at 6.26.29 PMShell Cordovan can be a mystery. It is fabulously expensive, relatively rare, and looks a lot like normal full grain leather. The question on many minds is “Is it worth it?” It’s a fair question worth some research. You get what you pay for, but what are you getting with shell cordovan products that makes them worth the extra scrilla? Continue reading “All About Shell Cordovan – An Interview With Horween Leather Co.”