How Leather Is Graded And Selected At Danner Boots

Crafting Higher Standards – Leather from Alex Hamlin on Vimeo.

Danner Boots are sending a pair of boots for review at BestLeather.org and we are excited to understand their dedication to craftsmanship more. Till then this video has to tide us over and we thought you would enjoy it as well.

Since leather is an organic material it is not consistent in thickness or usability so each hide must be graded. What the graders are looking for are no fatty stretch marks that are found around the shoulders and lower girth of the hide, they don’t want scars or bite marks, what they want is thick consistent leather that will look and wear uniformly. As such, much of the “junk” leather is either tossed or repurposed for other less significant duties.

This Man Wanted A Successor For His Custom Boot Company So He Offered To Teach The Buyer Everything He Knows

This is a fascinating story. George ran a custom boot making company in Harper, Oregon and he wanted to pass his trade on to someone that will do his legacy justice. What is interesting to me about this is that he even needed to make a video (which was quite beautiful) and put the word out that he is willing to train. How lazy and inept does our culture need to be that it is this hard to find an apprentice?

It would take a long time to develop those skills on your own and here George offered to train someone to take over his business when they buy it.

Thankfully a buyer has been found. We reached out to Bowen Ames who was the art director on the project and he told us that while a good buyer has been found they are keeping their information anonymous until the sale is completed.

We have reached out to George to learn more about his company and to hopefully assist him in finding a suitable successor.

Photo credit goes to Neil Dacosta.

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With Gfeller Casemakers On A Shop Visit

Gfeller Casemakers is a producer of fine leather goods in Meridian, Idaho, with a long tradition of excellence.  I met Steve Derricott, the owner of Gfeller (pronounced with the G) on a chilly winters morning at his shop in Meridian.  I had a great visit as Steve game me a history of Gfeller and we discussed his product line and his continuous commitment to quality.

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My first impression of his shop was that this is a true leather craftsman’s shop.  Upon entering, you are immediately welcomed by the scent of freshly worked leather.  You notice that many of the workbenches and shelving are custom made. Many of the tool sheaths were made of fine leather by Steve himself.  His polishing and burnishing wheel, for example, needed a custom cover and Steve created a beautifully tooled and formed leather.  Why buy when you can make?

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history

Gfeller Casemakers was founded by Roy Gfeller in 1946 in Colorado.  A saddle maker by trade, Roy’s proximity to  the United States Geological Society prompted a request for him to create some custom cases for geologist field gear.  It was imperative that these cases could withstand some serious use and abuse and would not break down.  Roy became known for using the highest quality materials, and producing the highest quality goods.  Upon Roy’s passing in 1985, Gfeller became available for purchase.  Steve Derricott heard of this and after some inquiry and time spent at the company, purchased the company and moved it to the Boise, Idaho area.  The timing was perfect for Steve.  As a geologist himself, and as someone who had used Gfeller products, he was ready for a change and ready to spend less time on the road.  Steve made a decision at that time to stay committed to Roy’s standard of quality.  Steve was able to expand the business, and branch out into other high quality leather products.

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product line

Gfeller Casemakers has three general product lines: geoscience bags and goods, notebooks and small personal items, and custom leather goods.  Gfeller has been secured as a maker of fine goods by the likes of Chris Reeves, Tegam, West Point, and others.  They make custom knife sheaths, tool carriers, saber belts, cartridge boxes, etc.  Steve has made a conscious decision to stay away from horse tack and sporting goods.  Steve has provided the opportunity for BestLeather.org to review a couple of his products, a notebook cover and an iPhone 5 case.  Reviews for those two products will be posted soon.

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commitment to quality

One of the things that I admired the most with Gfeller was their commitment to continuing Roy Gfeller’s tradition of using the highest quality materials and the best processes, in order to produce the best product.  It’s the type of thing that we at BestLeather.org love to see.  Upon acquiring Gfeller, Steve made the decision to use the Hermann Oak Tannery for all of it’s leather.  Hermann Oak has long had a tradition of producing fine finished leather.  Many of the goods we have reviewed at Best Leather use Hermann Oak leather as well, in fact.

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This fact is no coincidence.  Part of the reasoning for this choice was consistency and efficiency.  Using the same high quality tannery results in consistently getting high quality leather, which Gfeller customers demand.  Also, using leather from the same tannery increases efficiency.  Gfeller is able to use pieces from different hides in constructing different bags and products.  This efficiency reduces waste and saves money, which allows Gfeller to sell high quality products at reasonable prices.

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Another interesting conversation that I had with Steve related to the type of thread they use for their bags.  On all of their geoscience bags, Gfeller uses linen thread, like Italian fine leather shoemakers.  Many high quality leather goods makers currently use synthetic threads for their bags, mostly polyester and nylon.  Like Roy Gfeller before him, Steve has chosen linen thread as a matter of appropriateness.  Linen, as it turns out, is a good match for leather, strength for strength.  Polyester thread can actually tear through leather stitching, linen is not likely to do so.  A look at a wall full of old Gfeller bags, at the Gfeller Casemaker’s shop, shows that this thread can pass the test of time, just like fine leather.  I appreciate this attention and thought to detail.  It’s this attention to detail and good business practices that has kept Gfeller thriving.

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business practices

It goes without saying that a quality leather good doesn’t become that way by chance.  Gfeller’s reputation for high quality goods depends on it’s adherence to best practices and efficiencies.  For example, Steve pointed out to me, quality assurance is as important as, if not more important that, quality control.  Quality assurance demands maintaining quality throughout the production process.  If a defect of some sort is discovered during the production process, the defect is fixed or discarded immediately.  This ensures that quality control is a breeze.

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Steve also devotes considerable attention to utilizing the most appropriate machines in production of Gfeller’s goods.  The tool, or machine used, makes all of the difference in the efficiency of one’s operation.  At Gfeller’s, you’ll find die presses, industrial sewing machines, polishing wheels, hand tools, etc.  These tools were all acquired to increase efficiency, maximize man hours, and allow Gfeller to offer high value in the products they sell.

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BestLeather conclusion

My visit to Gfeller’s shop gave me a greater appreciation for the work of fine leather craftsman.  Steve Derricott is a man devoted to maintaining a tradition of excellence.  This was evident from the hand made tool sheaths, to the perfectly punched hide hung on the wall, to the fine leather cases and goods being made to order.

You can visit Gfeller Casemakers Website by clicking here.

Below is a series of photos documenting the process of completing a Gfeller compass case, from soaking in water to burnishing, cleaning up with a deer antler to forming, riveting, oiling and done.

Steve, thank you very much for your time and open access to your operation! Very enjoyable!

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With Totem & Norman Porter In Philadelphia

While on a trip through Philadelphia I had an opportunity to stop in at the excellent men’s store, Totem, in Philadelphia. They are selling a wide range of men’s goods including leather and canvas bags.

The store is very well put together and stocked with quality brands. Phil started Totem Brand Co. because he wanted to offer great heritage brands with a focus on American manufactured goods and outdoor lifestyle. Phil takes pride that their leather goods are made in USA. In fact, most of their leather goods are made directly in Pennsylvania where they are located. Totem carries great leather goods from Norman Porter who makes all his products in Philadelphia. They also carry Billy Kirk leather goods made by the Amish in Lancaster, PA and even their hoof pick belts by Apolis are made in Howard, PA.

 

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Norman Porter

While I was perusing Totem’s goods I learned about Norman Porter who supplies high quality denim and leather belts to Totem. A quick introductory phone call to Mike, the owner of Norman Porter, had me set for a trip over to his show as well.

Norman Porter is a small operation primarily focusing on high quality denim jeans for men. They offer the experience of coming in for a custom fit and constructed pair of jeans sewn together right in front of you. Mike graciously gave me a tour of his facility and showed off some of the vintage yet quite competent sewing machines he puts to work on denim.

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Although he may look somewhat somber here, Mike was a great host and share quite a bit of knowledge on leather and denim working.

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Incredibly, and completely circumstantially, Aaron from River City Leather was also visiting Mikes shop. Aaron lives in Ohio and I had corresponded with him just the previous day not realizing I would bump into him at Norman Porter. Aaron and his lovely wife Erin had his first bag from several years ago and is holding up great!

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Thrux Lawrence – First Store Opening In Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

Thrux Lawrence is a relatively new men’s dry goods company that focuses on leather and canvas materials. They are local to Coeur d’Alene, my hometown, so I have been able to see their growth over time and enjoy the single-minded focus on quality. Tanden Launder, the founder, is a good friend of mine and invited me to the grand opening of his new location.

Continue reading “Thrux Lawrence – First Store Opening In Coeur d’Alene, Idaho”

Traveling With The Saddleback Leather Medium Waterbag

I really enjoyed traveling with the Saddleback Leather Medium Waterbag along with my Saddleback Leather Medium Thin Briefcase. I didn’t have any problems except for one small plane where the waterbag didn’t fit in the overhead compartment and had to be checked. I could easily carry a weeks worth of clothes.

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If I had to express one concern it would be the weight. Trying packing the waterbag from A concourse to D concourse at DFW, I don’t suggest it unless you are hardcore (which I am, I don’t mind at all). It can get tiring.

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What would really be nice is if the medium and large sizes came with the same sort of backpack conversions that the briefcases come with (update: it does).

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